# Car smokes and can't get thro Motor Vehicle Inspection



## rakesh15 (Jan 6, 2006)

My Car
Ford Escort 1990 4 cyln - w/o Turbo, 1.9 L, 2 Door



It's not that obvious too much black smoke, 

but still due to some carbon content or so

it can't get passed thro motor vehicle and I am not in a position to by a 

brand new/used car.

*Work done:*

engine flush and flushed oil ( with special fluid) before filling with new one
oil change with filter,

was flushed thus ( oil flushed with special cleaners) 2 times.

new oil with oil filter

new air filter

cleaning of valves,

run on highways with high speeds till all smokes and carbon clears out whiel driving fast,...

added special fuid called " guarantee to pass" in gas before going for inspection.. etc 


The smoke is not blue, its slightly blackish, but not that much excessive visible smoke, so one can say and notiec as ,..bad exhaust


One guy told me to empty all oil and fll with special while fluid ( not oil ) and then go with motor vehicle to get it passed. which costs 95+ dollars for that particular fluid... !! ( I am still thinking ! )

NO luck yet,...

Could it be something else burning?? radiator water / trans. fluid?

Pep boys asks for 160+ dollars only for elctronic check ups.


Any trick, or traet to get it passed thro motor vehicle testing, pl.

I can't afford another car.




Can any one suggest any ideas??


Thx


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## batty_professor (Jul 29, 2004)

Sounds like you may have problems with oxygen sensor(s). This will cause the car to run excessively rich on fuel, and make your gas mileage drop. Tip: black smoke is excess fuel, oil is blue. Does your "Check Engine" light function? Or was that annoying bulb removed.


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## rakesh15 (Jan 6, 2006)

batty_professor said:


> Sounds like you may have problems with oxygen sensor(s). This will cause the car to run excessively rich on fuel, and make your gas mileage drop. Tip: black smoke is excess fuel, oil is blue. Does your "Check Engine" light function? Or was that annoying bulb removed.


Sir:

Smoke is not blue.
It's black, 
Not that much noticable that COP will stop me on the road.


Yes. check engine light comes very often and many times remain ON. My mechanic ( not certified ) - small shop, telling me, engine seems bad, buy new car which I can't afford. 

Any short time trick which will let me run for two more yrs by passing it thro , DMV - Motor Vehicle?

Its not that much black and excessive that soemone will stop me on road.


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## batty_professor (Jul 29, 2004)

Many autozone stores will read the codes from your engine management system for free. They will then tell you what the code reveals. That should point you in the right direction to get the car repaired and the emmisions to a passing level. When it comes to the repairs, a good mechanic may seem to cost more or charge more per hour for his labor, but that can cost less overall than with someone that costs 25% less/hr. but takes 50% more time and replaces a lot of unneeded parts to get there. If the engine is not consuming oil, and doesn't miss, it probably doesn't have any serious problems mechanically. Go see a mechanic that knows what he's talking about. At least check out what I said about autozone, Their codereader tool may be smarter about this than the mechanic you saw. If all you need is an oxygen sensor, those are usually $75.00 and less for the direct replacement. The generic "kit" is less than that. And they don't require any expensive tools for replacement. You can even buy the manual at the 'zone with illustrations where the sensors and all the other parts are located.


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## bruiser (Jul 30, 2005)

Autozone does not pull codes on OBDI cars. Since the check engine light is on, you need to have someone pull the trouble codes. That will point you in the direction you need to look. Black smoke is a sign of a rich running engine.


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## rakesh15 (Jan 6, 2006)

bruiser said:


> Autozone does not pull codes on OBDI cars. Since the check engine light is on, you need to have someone pull the trouble codes. That will point you in the direction you need to look. Black smoke is a sign of a rich running engine.


 Thx 4 yr honest opinions. 
I will contact my local autozone shops and will find out.
Thx again.


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## rakesh15 (Jan 6, 2006)

rakesh15 said:


> Thx 4 yr honest opinions.
> I will contact my local autozone shops and will find out.
> Thx again.




Autozoen told me smthg different.

They never do any repair n' dont have fixing shops

Black/grey smoke means oil burning ( Not the blue ssmoke )

To read the code engine, light should stay on, so its needed.


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## bruiser (Jul 30, 2005)

Your car has OBDI diagnostics. As I said before, Autozone only pulls codes from OBDII cars. I used to work there, so I know. Regardless of what they told you about the color of smoke, black means the car is running rich. To much fuel. The trouble code should still be in the car's ecm, regardless if the light is on or off. You need to find someone who can pull the codes on your car. A local garage can probably do it, for a fee, of course. You could try PepBoys, as they not only sell parts, but they also do service work.


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## rakesh15 (Jan 6, 2006)

bruiser said:


> Your car has OBDI diagnostics. As I said before, Autozone only pulls codes from OBDII cars. I used to work there, so I know. Regardless of what they told you about the color of smoke, black means the car is running rich. To much fuel. The trouble code should still be in the car's ecm, regardless if the light is on or off. You need to find someone who can pull the codes on your car. A local garage can probably do it, for a fee, of course. You could try PepBoys, as they not only sell parts, but they also do service work.


Sir:
Pardon my ignorence, 
but I have Car's org. booklet that came with 
as well as,. 
Chilton's specifvc book - only made for that particular car. 

Can it help anything to find out? 
After all what does it mean by " code" ?

thanks.


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## bruiser (Jul 30, 2005)

OBD means OnBoard Diagnostics. There exists OBD1, which is first generation diagnostics, and OBD2, which is second generation diagnostics.There is also the new CAN diagnostics, but that's to new for this discussion. These are also known as OBDI and OBDII. Your car is OBD1. If the check engine light is on, or has been on, and the car hasn't been repaired, the diagnostics have detected a problem. This sets a Diagnostic Trouble Code or DTC. This code(s) will have to be "pulled" by using either a code reader or a scan tool. And it has to be for an OBDI car. Once the codes are "pulled", that should point you in the direction of the problem. Some cars you could use a paper clip, or turn the ignition off and on to get the codes. I'm not sure about your Escort. Your books should tell you the procedure. You could also search for Ford Escort forums. If you find one, and you should be able to, someone there will know for sure how to get the codes.


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## batty_professor (Jul 29, 2004)

If the trouble code(s) are retrievable using the "paper clip" method, it will be outlined in the Chiltons manual. This information is in the "Emissions Control Systems" chapter of the manual.


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## rakesh15 (Jan 6, 2006)

Thx all for help and suggestions.

Unluckily , 
I called all Autozone stores in the area and no one has ODB- 1 testing machines for testing cars 1994 and older.

Will have to try AAmoco or somewhere else.

Thx.








batty_professor said:


> If the trouble code(s) are retrievable using the "paper clip" method, it will be outlined in the Chiltons manual. This information is in the "Emissions Control Systems" chapter of the manual.


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## rakesh15 (Jan 6, 2006)

OBDI test gave following results for my car’s engine ( Ford 1990 escort ) ( 117000 miles engine )

Major oil leaks,
Vacuum lines oil soaked
Soft falling off
Engine has excessive blow by possible worn rings,
Engine has low compression 1: 60 psi, 2: 65 psi 3: 55psi, 4: 55psi

Recommendation : Needs engine.


__________________

Does anyone think that this engine can be fixed to pass the emission test or should I must junk the car?

Any idea?

I try to fix it soemhow and can not afford another car and want to get it pass thro' motor vehicle soemhow for 1-2 yrs as I drive very little, 7+7 miles to and from work, daily.

Is it advisable to fix the engine or put new engine in it ??? 

Thx.


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## batty_professor (Jul 29, 2004)

What you have posted are not the results of any known OBD1 test codes. It would appear to be a mixture of opinion and test measurements with a compression guage. Which by the way, if those compression readings were true, the engine would have no emissions, as it would not run at all. 
Attached is a page from an emissions systems manual I have on hand. It shows a list of the trouble codes that the OBD1 test would possibly reveal. The system cannot possibly say that there is an oil leak, or make any comments regarding the physical condition of any vacuum line(s), compression, or blowby, as there are no sensors in the system to detect such things.
edit:
Ok I have to put an edit in here, to give some advice on this as I see it. I really don't believe we're getting anywhere close to the truth about this car, and the engine. You said the car is a model with a turbo, that makes it a little different from other Escort models. As it makes it more valuable. I have to fear that the people you're dealing with know that, and somehow seem to think they can make you believe the car is somehow depreciated way more than it is. Don't allow these people to 'steal" your car from you. Don't sell this car without advertising it publicly, as in a classified. State the truth as you know it, which amounts to knowing that the car runs, may smoke some, will not currently pass emissions, and any other notations you can make to be honest about the car. This car does have a market with a demand. If you have the car insured, and I would expect you to, ask your insurance agent for his opinion. I'm sure he sees a lot of cars, and should be honest with you.


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## rakesh15 (Jan 6, 2006)

Sir:
First of all I truly appreciate for yr interest, co-operation and quick responses.

The certified mechanic shop (listing as suggested by Motor vehicle in Delaware ) charged me 68 dollars for the said emission tests ( I told him for BOD I test and there are no other data he gave me, saying that engine is bad and worth to junk the car. My car looks so new ( body work ) and I can not junk that, as I put 2 new tires, valve cleaning and many engine work been recently done.

Sorry if I misexplained it, but My care is WITHOUT ( W/O) turbo – means NO turbo.

My car looks new and I have many pics you would wonder if I said about junking it. 

I will ask that mechanic shop again tomorrow and ask about code nos. PepboyZ told me about 180+ dollars and they were so busy so I had to go to an average shop which was listed under by DMV as certified courses taken.

I am really confused now. I appreciate heartily yr help and interest.
I thank all , for their utmost help, advice, time and n' concern.


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## batty_professor (Jul 29, 2004)

Sorry I misunderstood about the turbo, I saw it mentioned but didn't look carefully enough. And I assumed it meant it had one. Still, an Escort with 117,000 miles should not be in anywhere as bad of condition as seems to be implied here. If the compression is low, (it still cannot possibly be as bad as you indicated) it may be beneficial to replace the timing belt. If the timing is not correct due to a worn belt, or if the belt was replaced but incorrectly, that will result in low compression, poor performance, excessive emissions, and poor gas mileage. Might be worth looking into.


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## rakesh15 (Jan 6, 2006)

Picture of my car taken 1.5 yrs ago.

White Ford Escort !

http://groups.msn.com/janiojani/general.msnw?action=get_message&mview=0&ID_Message=2261


Engine / timing belt was changed after 66000 miles about 3-4 yrs ago. 
I think it has no impact. 

Once I had used ( 6 mos ago) the STP oil treatment can,
which was little older and that thick oil 
perhaps did the bad to the engine.

But my mechanic had flused the engine two times with special bottle fluids before putting new oil and filter ( two times this was done in last 2 months )

Engine valves were dirty and coverd with black muddy oil initially but he had cleaned those thoroughly in front of my eyes anfd flushed all engine with a bottle. 

Sometiems if I accelerate high, the exhaust emission throws carbon dust powder on the ground 
( looks like dust coal )
if I highly accelerate purposely to throw out / clean all the black exhaust it carries.

My car looks new and I am hesitated to junk it and buy new.

rakesh15

Does anyone know any strong fluid which can be added to the gas tank and temporarily it can let it pass thro' motor vehicle, as my tag had alreday expired and I need to do soemthing before I get the problem fixed.

One mecahnic told me to drain completely all oil and fill with some particular oil like white chemical - transparanet fuid ( costs 100 dollars for 3.5 bottles ) and since there is no oil there is no burning of black smoke and it may pass !

Any idea?


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## bruiser (Jul 30, 2005)

You need to go to a different shop. The shop you went to did not even hook up the OBDI scan tool.


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## Midnight Tech (Dec 31, 2001)

Check with your local high school and see if they can do a proper OBD test for you. Our local does stuff like that to help students learn and help folks out.


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## bruiser (Jul 30, 2005)

You might look into one of these: www.autocheckup.net/Merchant2/merch...e=CHKUPNET&Product_Code=90120&Category_Code=R


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## rakesh15 (Jan 6, 2006)

Sir/s:
I thank all for yr keen interest and kind co-op. I called the mechanic shop and will be going with them again to give me detailed test results.

I am really amazed to know that the machine itself costs hardly 60 bucks when I am spending 180+ dollars just for scan test ???

I will inquire at local schools too. Thx all and I will let you know if knew something .

Thx again, all.

rakesh


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## rakesh15 (Jan 6, 2006)

My mechanics did the test agian and gave me the following test results.

He still thinks that,
I need to re-build /REPLACE the engine or junk the car !!..


Any opinion pl.?


****************************
FAST CODES:

11 System pass

**continuous memory codes - fix last **

41 Ego not switching, lean exh ( bank 1)

******************************


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## Mullet Man (Oct 9, 2005)

I work at a local Ford dealership and a diagnosis at the dealer would have costed you $49.10. That charge would consist of pulling the OBD1 codes from the system and dignosing the smoking problem.
Could be as simple as a clogged PCV valve or a bad EGR valve.
Could be worn piston rings and oil burning, but you say it's dark smoke.


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## rakesh15 (Jan 6, 2006)

Sir:

Thx 4 the reply.

I always thought the original make dealers are always 10 times more expensive ! 

I was wrong !

There could be million things which could be wrong, and in this case it seems like no one knows nothing. 
I already ened up spending 300 dollars for no cure yet. 

My experience says that the mechanics know only to replace and not to repair. And, they are good at replacing majotr items and thereafter it will work anyway !!

My old mechanic told me, thousand things ( he was having big pennjersy shop ) like Muffler could be bad, oxygen sensor, spark plugs, engine rings, and what not ! 
He did all unnecessary work of changing oil , oil filter ( 2 times ) , engine was flushed two times, two times changed engine gasket, air filter ...etc. 

Now this new OBD tester guy ( certified licensed - environmental course taken) told me so many thingscould be bad as piston rings, this and that .. ( as per my previous posts) 
and these all to gather makes me to believe that no one knows nothing !

Finally he said engine is bad, replace it and thats an easy answer which could never be wrong ! After doing that there will be no problem, naturally !1 Wow !

I ask myself a question many times, 
does any of these guy know any perfect cause and solution? 
Perhaps none !

You have also suggetsed two more item scould be wrong !
It all makes a bigtime confusion and only god knows what is / could be wrong !

Yes.the smoke is little dark grey and still not that much noticeable that someone may stop me at traffic light. 

No one is telling me till now, the perfect solution and the cause. Confused !

OBD tester guy told me all causes in all directions 

==>
****
OBDI test gave following results for my car’s engine ( Ford 1990 escort ) ( 117000 miles engine )

Major oil leaks,
Vacuum lines oil soaked
Soft falling off
Engine has excessive blow by possible worn rings,
Engine has low compression 1: 60 psi, 2: 65 psi 3: 55psi, 4: 55psi

Recommendation : Needs engine.

****************

No perfect corner .

What a pity ! Sigh !


Thx all here 4 their help and support.


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## airymountain (Jan 23, 2006)

Code 41 probably means that the oxygen sensor is dead. The compression readings you reported are way too low for the engine to be running. It seems that you are dealing with a less-than-competent "technician". Go to www.iatn.net and use their shop finder to find a shop near you. Those people are the true professionals, and any money you spend with them will not be wasted. You will need to deal with both these problems to get your Escort to pass the smog test.


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## Midnight Tech (Dec 31, 2001)

rakesh15 said:


> ****
> OBDI test gave following results for my car’s engine ( Ford 1990 escort ) ( 117000 miles engine )
> 
> Major oil leaks,
> ...


Perhaps when the OBD test is administered by Data from Star Trek hooking himself up to the car will the computer be able to tell you of oil soaked vacuum lines and oil leaks. 
As airymountain said, check that website and find another mechaninc or 2 to check your car out.


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## rakesh15 (Jan 6, 2006)

Thx for the all humble replies.

I will take my car to the PEP BOYz today and let me see what happens...

somehow will try to get it pass thro' Motor Vehicle , buying the new one instead. 

Thx all.


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## Mullet Man (Oct 9, 2005)

Good luck


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## rakesh15 (Jan 6, 2006)

They performed the OBD1 test at Pepboyz and here are the results.
Guy was certified environmental course taken,
as suggested by Motor Vehicle.



http://groups.msn.com/janiojani/general.msnw?action=get_message&mview=0&ID_Message=2261&all_topics=0


He made an estimated bill of 385.00 dollars , ( replacing spark plugs, sensors..etc ) 
by saying that, still he can not give any warranty of passing the vehicle after the expenses. ( I did not let it perform the work )

Vehicle may/may not pass. 

He said,
if I spent 675+ dollars, he can give warranty of passing
as DMV gives the extension of 1-2 year tag, anyway ! 

He said even after fixing ( 675+ dollars spent) car may last within 1-2 years due to other wear and best bet could be to install a new engine.

He charged 90 dollars for just diagnosis and minor fixings.

So now I am searching for a new engine ( rebuilt / used ) 


any suggestiions / precautions ?


Any ideas? 

*Does anyone think that, If I put the new oxygen sensor ( spk plug wires are new) and other one or two new parts as per the ODB-1 code here
( In above link)
( one or two code items he fixed already)
the car may pass thro' Motor Vehicle??*


Thx.


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## bruiser (Jul 30, 2005)

I'd start with the EGR valve and the O2 sensor.


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## rakesh15 (Jan 6, 2006)

Sir:

EGR valve according to which code?

Is it difficult to install? 

Can I put by myself, while reading in chilton book?

Thx.


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## bruiser (Jul 30, 2005)

I went back and looked at the results you posted, and there's nothing about the egr, I misread it. Here is a link to an auto forum where you might get more info. This link also has the Ford OBDI definitions: www.troublecodes.net/Ford/


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## rakesh15 (Jan 6, 2006)

Thx. Bruiser:

I HAVE ADDED BOTH THE OBD1 REPORTS HERE, 
FROM TWO DIFF. CERTIFIED PERSONS.


http://groups.msn.com/janiojani/general.msnw?action=get_message&mview=0&ID_Message=2261&all_topics=0


Infact code no. 33 says something about bad EGR !

*Pepboyz test shows,..*

code 22, 42, 18, 33, 41 and mentions about 
vacuum repair to Map and oxygen sensor


Previous test shows,

code 41, 
and
continuous memory codes. - fix last.

He mentions about 

majot oil leaks ( No mentions. where? my car does not leak oil? engine gasket is new and I have no oil spill on my drive way )

Vacumlines oil soaked ,
soft falling off,
engine has excessive blow and low compression.


Do you think that by changing oxygen sensor, sparl plugs and EGR valve will make it passing thro' the inspection??

Any opinions please??

Thx.


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## bruiser (Jul 30, 2005)

Damn, I'm right even when I think I'm wrong!!!

Depending on where the EGR valve is located, it might not be hard to change. Check your Chilton's for location and see how easy/hard it will be. O2 sensor might be kind of hard as they can be hard to get out after being in there for years. Check all vacuum lines. There might be a diagram under the hood, or in your book. You can look up parts and prices on Autozone's site. You can also look up locations of some parts on their site as well.


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## batty_professor (Jul 29, 2004)

rakesh15 said:


> He mentions about
> 
> majot oil leaks ( No mentions. where? my car does not leak oil? engine gasket is new and I have no oil spill on my drive way )
> 
> ...


I followed your link to the MSN page where you posted images of the reports. That helps. 
Let me decipher:
Major oil leaks: I think this has been fixed when you had earlier services done. That leaking oil at that time caused the:
Vacuum lines oil soaked, soft, falling off. 
Meaning the vacuum lines may be deteriorated to the point where they aren't doing their job any longer. I would consider replacing the vacuum lines, perhaps all of them. The lines can be bought by the foot, usually around 25-35 cents per foot. and there should be a diagram under the hood illustrating how they are to be configured. Now something I didn't see is a report of the actual exhaust readings. That's the paper the machine puts out after it's been connected to your tailpipe. Those numbers are what the operator has to go by to say pass/fail. The percentages of NOx CO and so forth. The report should list the actual readings, as well as the permitted levels for each of the exhaust compounds. If we have the numbers, we can better predict the outcome of spending you money on the repairs. Those numbers can also indicate what is actually wrong, to a degree.


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## rakesh15 (Jan 6, 2006)

Unfortunately,
no one has provided me that kind of report for each gases.

Existing v/s supposed to be - condition.


Two times, at motor vehicle, 
they did not even complete the test. 
They put the nozzle pipe in car's tail pipe 
and after a while, 
they told me to accelerate 
and took out the test pipe saying that it is still smoking.

Two time
they took the test and I could see
the circle on their computer screen went all the way black in a donut. 

They wrote only one line in the report. ( paper that they gave me ) .

*H/c Cover 4800 C/O cover 10.% CO2 less than 3% would not test.. smoking.*

No idea waht it means.. what the level should be,. and what it is,.... !

Unfortunately No mechanic gives full complete reports even after charging a lot of money and what thehy say orally is,.
. everything is bad,... 
replace the engine or whole car.. ! ( they are used to that way ! )

Well, I may change sensor and EGR valve and give a try with spending 
125+ more dollars.

I am (may) also getting used engine for 450+ dollars ( purchase only ) from salvage . 
( 53K miles of org car, who hit the accident)
No idea if it would work ! 
They are not re-built ones. As it is. 

Any idea?
Thx.


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## Midnight Tech (Dec 31, 2001)

rakesh15, if you do get that salvage yard engine, have them crank it so you can see it run before you buy it.(If they want to make the sale, they'll do this...and it CAN be done with the motor not mounted in a chassis.) This way, you don't get home with an engine that's possibly worse than the one you have now. Also, make sure the engine is the same model year as your vehicle - otherwise you will have great grief installing.....:sayno:


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## rakesh15 (Jan 6, 2006)

Thx. all for their utmost help,
charts, code-table and all those. 

I have made prints of those and searching for a used / re-built engine, as it seems to be 
of piston rings wear and tear and oil burning due to that
which can not be fixed by sensor / EGR valve etc. 
( I took advice from an another auto-mechanic today, he also gave me the same opinion of either changing the engine or the car. 

Thx all.
rakesh15


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## emjay13 (Feb 3, 2006)

rakesh15 said:


> OBDI test gave following results for my car’s engine ( Ford 1990 escort ) ( 117000 miles engine )
> 
> Major oil leaks,
> Vacuum lines oil soaked
> ...


Such low yet consistant compression pressures are indeed suspect. If, when the engine is warm, you put the car in 3rd gear WITH THE IGNITION OFF, and maybe with help, push it forward a FEW yards you should feel the resistance of each compression stroke. If you cant then either the rings/bore are knackered or the valves shot. 
If the car rolls without check, the you have a shot engine. Remove the plugs, put a small amount of oil in each piston bore, replace the valves and push again. If it is just as easy to push it is valves , if it is harder to push it is rings/pistons/bores ( could be valves as well)

hth


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## sigve (Feb 6, 2006)

You drive very little, sure engine gets warm or that you keep it on high enough revs(at least 3-4000)? If the pistonrings are stuck, you could try pouring Redex into sparkplug hole. And maybe perform a compressiontest yourself while youre at it-look in the manual. The tool(gage?) u use is availeble here(Norway) at some 15-20£. But at least you could try whats suggested in the previous post(u can use the similar way to determine/measure wheter its the rings and/or pistons), and maybe then use Redex afterwards.

Later u can have Redex or other cleaning additive in the petrol till u see if it works. Try some Qmi products(google for it in the uk)
http://www.carbibles.com/snakeoil.html

drive the car propperly warm before any exhaust test, and let them take it as soon as you arrive.


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## cresing (Feb 6, 2006)

You may want to give this stuff called seafoam a try. They sell it at places like autozone and pep boys. I have used on my car to clean out the engine and vacuum lines a couple times. When you use it your car will smoke a lot until it is all run through the system. Also when I used it I was able to point out many vacuum leaks and many other leaks because of the smoke coming out. Just a thought...wouldn't hurt to try one more thing. 

http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm

Goodluck
Chris


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## bruiser (Jul 30, 2005)

Seafoam is one of the few miracles in a can that really works. I've used it. It is a carbon buster, fuel system cleaner, etc. Be careful, as there is more than one kind.


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## cresing (Feb 6, 2006)

Yea it is def. a miracle in a can. If you go buy it make sure what you are getting looks like the one in the link in my above post.


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## rakesh15 (Jan 6, 2006)

Problem Solved.
Thx for all of yr support and I sincerely apologize for not getting back , here quickly.

After undergoing tons of panic and sufferings and deadly reports from all around, finally I bought for 33 dollars a new oxygen sensor from near by AutoZone store and replaced it in less than a minute. It was so easy and the location was right in the front, when you open the hood. Anyone who can replace the light bulb, for sure can do it.
After that replacement all smokes were gone. My car had passed instantly thro’ the inspection for next 2 yrs and I hope that I will be driving for another 5+ yrs.

The lesson I learnt very hard way that never do the complete CT-scan of yr Car and never ever trust any mechanic. They find all kind of faults especially with the old cars and try to prove and convince you that yr car is a piece of junk which hardly ahs any value of 20 Bucks. Next time I would rather start replacing the part needed ( after seeking advice) rather than spending a lot on tests, inspection and unnecessary repairs- labor work. 

I fixed my car by myself a bout 3 days ago and regret for the late reply.

Thx n' Regards all.


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## bruiser (Jul 30, 2005)

Congratulations!!! Invest in a scan tool and do the diagnostics yourself. Also, find a Ford forum where you can get more detailed advice. I'm sure there are some around, as I know there are forums for Mustangs, so I'd think there were some for other Fords as well. 

BTW, if you decide to get a scan tool, be sure to get one that can scan OBDI, OBDII, and the new CAN protocols. I say this because you most likely won't be driving an OBDI car the rest of your life. With the scan tool, you could have looked at the O2 sensors and noticed if they were working properly.


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