# CPU cooler removal - retention bracket help!



## LesleyP (Jan 31, 2013)

Hi all 

I have been asked to check/replace the thermal paste on a PC however I have run into a bit of a problem removing the CPU cooler. There is a thin metal retention clip that runs underneath the fan which is clipped in either side - but for the life of me I cannot seem to get it unclipped. 🤦‍♀️

I have attached a couple of photos - any advice would be very much appreciated. Happy to provide more info and photos if required. Also, please ignore the dust - it will be getting a thorough clean before I return it.

Thanks in advance!


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## Bill_Bright (Dec 17, 2004)

LesleyP said:


> I have been asked to check/replace the thermal paste on a PC


Don't do it. Contrary to what some seem to believe, the ONLY time TIM (thermal interface material) needs to be replaced is when the cured bond between the mating surfaces has been broken. And this will only happen if the computer has been physically abused (bounced roughly during transport, for example), or when the cooler is twisted too hard, breaking the bond (typically to see if loose), or when replacing the cooler. 

TIM will easily last 5, 10, 15 years or longer AS LONG AS that cured bond is not broken. Even if it dries, the solids that remain behind are still occupying the microscopic pits and valleys in the mating surfaces, doing their jobs of preventing insulating air from getting in there. 

Yes, it is true you _may_ gain a few degrees (typically ~5 - 6°C at best) better cooling with a fresh application of new TIM. But the fact remains, if your temps are already that close to excessive thermal thresholds, you have much greater cooling issues to deal with first! Like case cooling. Remember, it is the case's responsibility to create a sufficient supply of cool air flowing through the case. The CPU's cooler need only toss the CPU's heat into that flow. Adding an additional intake fan in front, or exhaust fan in back can often do wonders. 

If the current TIM bond is not yet broken, I would urge you to stop. Thoroughly clean the case (including heatsinks and vents) of heat trapping dust, make sure all fans spin properly, then check the temps. If comfortably within the normal operating temps of the CPU, leave it! 

If you think you may have broken that bond, then I recommend you check the motherboard manual, or the CPU cooler manual (from their respective web pages) for mounting/unmounting instructions. You may have to remove the motherboard from the case.


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## Stancestans (Apr 26, 2009)

The images don't help much at that viewing angle. A side view will give an idea of how the clip latches into place, hence how to unlatch it. There's absolutely no reason NOT to apply fresh paste if that's what's asked of you. Of course, to check its condition, you have to remove the heat sink. In similar-style coolers, you'd press down that lip to loosen its hold underneath.


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## Bill_Bright (Dec 17, 2004)

Stancestans said:


> There's absolutely no reason NOT to apply fresh paste if that's what's asked of you.


Ummm, sure there is - several actually. Over the years we've had many computers come in to the shop where users attempted to replace the TIM, but in the process, they created bigger problems. These include breaking the fan header, scratching circuit traces on the motherboard with a slipped screwdriver or dropped cooler, striped a mounting screw, failed to thoroughly clean the old TIM, applied too much new TIM, didn't apply enough new TIM, didn't unplug the PSU from the wall and shorted something out, or zapped the processor or other sensitive devices with ESD from their fingertips.

We have even case cases where CPU or socket pins were bent or broken. When asked why the CPU was removed (not necessary when replacing TIM) the reasons given varied. But the most common were, I though it would be easier to clean the old TIM off, or "_someone said" _or_ "I read somewhere to reseat the CPU_".  

Sure, it is not hard to remove and replace the cooler and TIM if one knows what they are doing and has the required manual dexterity (good eyesight helps). But costly damage through mistake, mishandling, accident, or incorrect procedures is not hard either.

The point is, if the temps are too high and heat related issues are occurring, then the few degrees that _might_ be achieved with new TIM are not likely to lower the temps enough to resolve the heat-related issues - except perhaps temporarily.

If you are being paid to replace the TIM because repairing computers is your job, that's one thing. If you are being asked to replace the TIM because you got tagged as the neighborhood or family "go-to" computer whiz, that's something totally different.

Since we can see a build-up of dust, and we know dust creates a blanket that traps heat, I say start there. Make sure existing fans spin. And see if maybe adding a fan, or replacing a current fan with a better one may be a better, long term solution. This can often easily be done by simply blasting a desk fan into the open case while taxing the computer. If temps improve enough to prevent crossing over thermal protection thresholds, that's a good indication improved case cooling is needed, typically by adding a fan or replacing current fans with better ones. 

Proper cooling is absolutely essential. Not debate that. But achieving the coolest temps possible is not. There is nothing to suggest, for example, that a CPU running at 25°C will provide better performance, be more stable, or have a longer life expectancy than a CPU running at 50°C.

Edit comment: Fixed a couple typos, added comment about bent pins.


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## Rich-M (May 2, 2007)

If the cpu is stuck to the hsf just make sure you pull it up straight out and do not sway to either side which is would could easily bend the pins on cpu removing and damage the cpu.


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## Bill_Bright (Dec 17, 2004)

If the CPU is stuck, what I have found really helps is to start the computer to allow the CPU to heat up a little. Then quickly shutdown, unplug from the wall, touch bare metal of the case interior, then give a little twist back and forth on the cooler. Don't sway, as Rich-M noted. Just a slight twist like turning a nut on a bolt. That usually breaks the bond, then you can lift straight out. 

If the system does not work, careful use of a hair dryer on low heat on the cooler is usually enough to warm up the TIM.


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## Rich-M (May 2, 2007)

All really good ideas!


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## SpareChange (Mar 7, 2019)

Rich-M said:


> If the cpu is stuck to the hsf just make sure you pull it up straight out and do not sway to either side which is would could easily bend the pins on cpu removing and damage the cpu.



That's not how you do it, you gently and very slighly rotate until you feel the break from the TIM and the bond and at that point slowly pull up. Straight up can pull the entire unit up all at once and with that cause the bent pins.


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## Rich-M (May 2, 2007)

Very true I just failed to say it correctly. Rotate it each way slightly to loosen it first, then pull it straight out being careful not to pull up or off to either side and I assuming the tower is on its side and you are standing above it so you can pull it straight.


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