# [SOLVED] Desktop Build



## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

So far, these are the parts I've chosen for my high-end desktop:


Kingston Technology HyperX Blu 8GB 1333MHz DDR3 Non-ECC CL9 DIMM (Kit of 2) KHX1333C9D3B1K2/8G
$45.98

Gigabyte AMD Radeon HD 7850 2 GB GDDR5 DVI-I/HDMI/2x mini-Displayport PCI-Express 3.0 Graphic Card GV-R785OC-2GD
$194.99

Arctic Silver 5 Polysynthetic Silver Thermal Compound Paste 3.5g
$8.25

Gigabyte Intel Z77 LGA 1155 AMD CrossFireX/NVIDIA SLI W/ HDMI,DVI,DispayPort Dual UEFI BIOS ATX Motherboard GA-Z77X-UD3H
$149.99

NZXT Source 210 -Inches ELITE-Inches Midtower Case with 3.0 USB - White
$39.99

Cooler Master Extreme Power Plus - 600W Power Supply (RS600-PCARE3-US)
$53.91

Crucial m4 128GB 2.5-Inch Solid State Drive SATA 6Gb/s CT128M4SSD2
$113.79

Western Digital Caviar Black 1 TB SATA III 7200 RPM 64 MB Cache Internal Desktop Hard Drive Bulk/OEM - WD1002FAEX
$91.77

Intel Core i5-3570K Quad-Core Processor 3.4 GHz 4 Core LGA 1155 - BX80637I53570K
$223.79

Windows 7 Professional SP1 32bit (Full) System Builder DVD 1 Pack
$129.59

Total: $1052.05

This is my first time building a PC, so I want to make sure these parts will work together. I plan on playing games at maximum settings, running virtual machines, and converting video files, among other things.

The SSD will be my boot drive, allowing my PC to start up quickly, and I have the 1 TB HDD as storage. Some applications/games will go on the SSD to improve their start times.

I guess my main concern at the moment is the PSU. Is it powerful enough? Is it too powerful? If you believe any of these components are bad choices, please explain why. Thanks. :smile:

I'll purchasing everything on Amazon.com.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

Oops, I forgot to add an optical drive.

Lite-On Super AllWrite 24X SATA DVD+/-RW Dual Layer Drive - Bulk - IHAS124-04 Version C (Black)
$16.99

Total is now $1069.04

My maximum budget was $1300, but I tried to aim for $1100.


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## gcavan (Aug 13, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

Going on spec alone, the C-M power supply would be adequate. However, the 'Extreme power plus" line are (IMO) some of the poorest quality supplies on the market. You would probably find it to be extremely noisy, both in sound and in the stability of its output voltages. Swap it out with:

Seasonic M12II 620 BRONZE


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

Same advice on the PSU. SeaSonic & XFXare top quality.
G.Skill or Corsair for the RAM and go to 1600MHz.
The CPU will come with a thermal pad so the AS paste won't be needed.
SSD's aren't a good value at this time considering the high cost vs. the minimal benefit.
Go with the 64Bit version of 7.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: Desktop Build*

I would also recommend changing the GPU to either Sapphire or Asus.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

Nice catch Tyree, I meant to get 64bit Windows. OK, so now I've got Windows 7 Pro x64, and I switched the RAM to 8 GB Corsair Vengeance. I swapped out the PSU with the Seasonic M12II 620 BRONZE. The PSU switch caused me to exceed my $1100 target, but I suppose it's worth it. Funny, the customer reviews of the Power Plus PSU claimed it was very quiet.

As for the GPU, it appeared to me that the AMD Radeon HD 7850 was highly recommended as a very good card.

Asus or Sapphire you say? How about this ASUS 2GB GDDR5 DIGI+ VRM technology Graphics Cards HD7770-2GD5? That would actually save me money over the Radeon, bringing the total just below my $1100 target budget.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

I'll reconsider the SSD, but I really wanted to get one. I don't need to buy Thermal Paste? I couldn't even figure out if the i5 processor comes with a heatsink/fan or if I need to buy a CPU cooler.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: Desktop Build*



> OK, so now I've got Windows 7 Pro x64


You can save money by buying Windows 7 Home Premium. Its works just as fine. All you get in Pro is Windows XP mode.

That GPU will do.

The CPU it self will come with its own thermal paste therefore buying extra isn't needed. It will also come with a stock fan.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

I've already got Home Premium on my laptop and I was disappointed because there was no Windows XP mode. It also lacks the Group Policy editor. Go figure.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

The Asus GPU is a very good choice.
"Boxed" CPU's come with a heatsink/fan and a thermal pad pre-applied to the heatsink.
OEM CPU's do not.
The SSD will offer faster boot/seek times but that comes at a very premium price for such a small benefit.
The SeaSonic PSU is worth every penny.



Sporkinator said:


> Funny, the customer reviews of the Power Plus PSU claimed it was very quiet.


Quiet doesn't mean it's good quality and the SeaSonic will be just as quiet. :smile:


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*



Tyree said:


> Quiet doesn't mean it's good quality and the SeaSonic will be just as quiet. :smile:


Excellent point. Thanks for the help, I finalized the order and will begin assembling it when the parts arrive.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

Best of luck and post back if you have any problems.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

The parts have not arrived yet, but I realized the graphics card I picked does not have a VGA connection for my existing ViewSonic LCD Monitor.

Do I need to buy something like this?

Syba Connectland CL-ADA31002 DVI Male to VGA Female Adapter

Does an adapter come with the graphics card? I'm guessing not, since I can't find any information about what's in the box when I purchase a graphics card.


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## gcavan (Aug 13, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

There will be one included with the card.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

Oh really? Thanks! :thumb:


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## Vadigor (Apr 19, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*



gcavan said:


> There will be one included with the card.


I strongly doubt this. VGA adapters used to be standard and I remember getting one with my GPU 3 years ago, but I somewhat doubt that they'd be included with current-gen GPUs.

According to this unboxing video it's not included:
Gigabyte AMD Radeon HD 7850 2GB GDDR5 - Unboxing PL/ENG - YouTube

You might want to contact Gigabyte support, they should be able to tell you for sure whether or not they've included an adapter in the box. If not, you will indeed need to order one of those adapters.

PS - Damn, can't even create a simple link to a youtube video without embedding it. :ermm:


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

Oh. I guess I better order it then. I don't plan on buying a new monitor yet.


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## Vadigor (Apr 19, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*



Sporkinator said:


> Oh. I guess I better order it then. I don't plan on buying a new monitor yet.


If you're close to a store you may as well buy it there if it turns out that you need one. Assuming they don't overcharge of course.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

I guess that settles it. I'll order it. I don't know of any stores around here that sell parts.

I think I'll get This one. I read there are different kinds of DVI connections. I really wish this stuff was standardized instead of having so many seemingly arbitrary connection types.


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## Vadigor (Apr 19, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*



Sporkinator said:


> I guess that settles it. I'll order it. I don't know of any stores around here that sell parts.
> 
> I think I'll get This one. I read there are different kinds of DVI connections. I really wish this stuff was standardized instead of having so many seemingly arbitrary connection types.


Well there _are_ standards. There are just _quite a lot of them_. 

Your GPU uses DVI-I dual link, which I believe is the standard for computer graphics. According to the comments and picture on that Amazon page, that's a male DVI-I dual link adapter so you should be all set.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

OK I finalized the order for the adapter. It's only $2.49. The estimated delivery date is the 11th, so this may delay me a bit if the parts arrive first... because free shipping if I'm patient.


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## Vadigor (Apr 19, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*



Sporkinator said:


> OK I finalized the order for the adapter. It's only $2.49. The estimated delivery date is the 11th, so this may delay me a bit if the parts arrive first... because free shipping if I'm patient.


You can use the extra time to benchtest your system before building it into the case. :wink:


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

I don't see how I can do that without a monitor. I probably don't even know how to benchtest. I'm building a PC for the first time, but also making it a gaming/high performance machine. I did take A+ last semester, so I have some idea how PC parts connect inside the case. That's about it. I'll be reading the motherboard manual first thing. :hide:

If VGA is no longer the standard for monitors, that almost makes me feel old. :grin:


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## Vadigor (Apr 19, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

I remember when the standard monitor was black and green so I don't think you have any excuse to feel old. 

As for benchtesting, that basically means that before you build your PC you 
you connect all the hardware outside the case first. It allows you to make sure that every component is in working order and nothing was DOA.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

A monitor is required to see if the PC actually boots to the Bios.
Bench Test
Set the motherboard on a non conductive surface. The motherboard box is perfect for this. DO NOT PLACE THE MOTHERBOARD ON THE STATIC BAG! It can actually conduct electricity! 
Install the CPU and heat sink. 
Install 1 stick of RAM.
Install the video card and attach the power supply connection(s) to the card if your card needs it.
Connect the monitor to the video card.
Connect the power supply to the motherboard with both the 24pin main ATX Power connection and the separate 4 pin (Dual Core CPU) or 8 pin (Quad Core CPU) power connection.
Connect power to the power supply.
Do NOT connect ANYTHING else. Make sure you have the power connector on the CPU fan connected.
Use a small screwdriver to momentarily short the power switch connector on the motherboard. Consult your motherboard manual to find which two pins connect to your case's power switch. Then touch both pins with a screwdriver to complete the circuit and boot the system.

If all is well, it should power up and you should get a display. Then assemble the parts into the case and try again. If the system now fails to boot, you have a short in the case and need to recheck your motherboard standoffs.

If the system does not boot after this process, then you most likely have a faulty component. You'll need to swap parts, start with the power supply, until you determine what is defective.


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## Vadigor (Apr 19, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*



Tyree said:


> A monitor is required to see if the PC actually boots to the Bios.


Ah, wouldn't the POST tell you as much though? But thanks for posting that, I'll be able to use it myself as well.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

Beep codes will also signify that "if" there is a Mobo speaker. Most newer Mobo's, for some unknown reason, do not include one.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

First shipment came today, and I found something funny.








I blocked the Windows Product Key even though it probably wasn't legible anyway.

So basically, the sticker with the key on it says:

"You are required to affix this Certificate of Authenticity to the exterior of the PC"

How am I supposed to do that when this "Certificate" (also know as tiny sticker) is already stuck to the DVD case right out of the box? :rofl:

I tried to see if it will peel off of the DVD case. It shows no signs of surrender. I just find this hilarious. I'm not worried, since the person I am building this PC for is myself. :smile:

Well played, Microsoft...


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

I also wonder why it's called a "System builder DVD Pack". There's only 1 DVD. So much for "pack". I was assuming there would be some other DVDs with it. I have no idea what they would be for, but that's what I thought.


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## T_Rex (Oct 21, 2012)

*Re: Desktop Build*



Sporkinator said:


> First shipment came today, and I found something funny.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Get someone with some fingernails to gently pry the sticker up. I do this nearly every day lol.


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## Vadigor (Apr 19, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

Leave it where it is and keep the disc in a safe place. It makes no sense to mar such a nice looking case with the mark of the devil. :devil:


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

True, no reason to mess up such a nice case. I just want to make sure I've always got the product key in case I want to reinstall my OS. I always like to keep format/reinstall as an option in the event that something goes wrong on the software side of things.

I was thinking about imaging the disk to a bootable flash drive to speed up the installation process since I'll be installing the OS on a solid state drive, but I don't know if that'd actually save any time.

Come to think of it, I'm very likely to dual-boot with Linux at some point, so why stamp Windows on the case? :smile:


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## Vadigor (Apr 19, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*



Sporkinator said:


> I just want to make sure I've always got the product key in case I want to reinstall my OS. I always like to keep format/reinstall as an option in the event that something goes wrong on the software side of things.


Good thinking. Make a photocopy of the product key or simply jot it down and keep the key and the case in separate but secure places.



Sporkinator said:


> I was thinking about imaging the disk to a bootable flash drive to speed up the installation process since I'll be installing the OS on a solid state drive, but I don't know if that'd actually save any time.


DVD reads are indeed slow compared to flash storage. I _assume_ that the majority of W7's installation process concerns the actual copying of files from disc to disk, in which case it would make the whole process quite a bit faster. It's also what I do in a professional environment: custom images are installed onto new arrivals in our Active Directory from USB drives.

However, the difference shouldn't be dramatic so unless you want to reinstall once a month or more, I doubt it's really worth going through all the effort.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

Yeah I'm thinking all the steps I would go through to image the flash drive for a single installation would not be worth it. It was just an idea.

My graphics card arrived today. I haven't unboxed it yet, but I will.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

Just now opened it up. It does come with a VGA adapter:








I guess I could have saved $4 if I had known this. Oh well.

On second thought, this does enable me to use 2 VGA monitors if I want... but my other one is a CRT. :grin:


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*










"Windows 8 Ready"

I'm sorry, but the above quote made me laugh. Images of people trying to put this graphics card in a tablet came to mind. :grin:


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## Vadigor (Apr 19, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*



Sporkinator said:


> Just now opened it up. It does come with a VGA adapter:
> I guess I could have saved $4 if I had known this. Oh well.


Ah damn. :uhoh:

Well, at least you have a spare.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: Desktop Build*

You'll get a much better picture if you use Da digital cable or HDMI.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

My LCD monitor connects to a PC using a standard monitor plug (VGA). I don't know how to use HDMI.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

If VGA is the only available connection on the monitor, you have no choice.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

OK I finally got my SSD and case. I've got all the parts! Time to start building. Is there a recommended order of what hardware I should install first? Should I start with the PSU? Motherboard first?

Well here we go. :grin:


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: Desktop Build*

Set the motherboard into the case first. Then install the CPU > CPU Cooler.

Then GPU and HDDs and RAM.

Then connect it all with your PSU.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

Sounds like a plan, thanks. I got my anti-ESD strap equipped and my toolkit ready. Time to do some science.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*



Sporkinator said:


> OK I finally got my SSD and case. I've got all the parts! Time to start building. Is there a recommended order of what hardware I should install first? Should I start with the PSU? Motherboard first?
> 
> Well here we go. :grin:


FIRST, Install the CPU onto the Mobo so you can be certain all four legs of the heatsink/fan assy. are securely locked into the Mobo. 
Then follow the bench test listed in Post #25, If all is well, THEN install the components in the case.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

Seems to be going well. It's alive, and I'm installing Windows 7.










I connected everything in the case and it worked the very first time. I got "Reboot and select proper boot device". I then inserted my Windows 7 DVD and pressed a key to reboot. :grin:

The top case fan isn't running, but the CPU and GPU and side case fan are running. I'll look into this after installing the OS.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

The build is complete. The 1 TB drive for storage is installed and formatted, all the fans are running.








I thank TSF for the help in choosing the parts, and one of my college class mates for reminding me to install the motherboard chipset drivers first thing after getting the OS installed. It just worked. No problems at all.

When I turned it on for the first time and saw "Reboot and select proper boot device", I was so happy! This is my very first build and it went well, thanks to TSF! :dance:


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## Vadigor (Apr 19, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*



Sporkinator said:


> This is my very first build and it went well, thanks to TSF! :dance:


Enjoy it. If you have the time and space you may want to see if you can tidy a few of the cables out the way. It may provide better airflow although cooling shouldn't be an issue. I can see your case has cable management holes but from the resolution I can't tell if you're already using them.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

Yeah, my power cables are a mess. I do need to tidy them up later, and it indeed should improve cooling. 30 C while idle isn't bad, but the cooler the better, right? At least it runs cooler than my laptop.

Due to the cable mess, I had quite the time just trying to plug the power and SATA cables into my HDD.

For now though, I have closed up the case.

I know the SSD was expensive, but I get amusement from the 10-second boot time and the ultra-snappy responsiveness.

In fact, I couldn't seem to mount the SSD, so it's kind of "floating" in the case in the cable mess. Luckily, it's small and barely weighs anything. I also will not be moving or jostling my case around while the the computer is running.


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## Vadigor (Apr 19, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*



Sporkinator said:


> In fact, I couldn't seem to mount the SSD, so it's kind of "floating" in the case in the cable mess. Luckily, it's small and barely weighs anything. I also will not be moving or jostling my case around while the the computer is running.


Given that there are no moving parts in the SSD that's not really a problem. I'd still recommend mounting it in a drive bay or to the side or bottom of the case if that's an option. That'll improve your cable routing and you don't want it knocking anything loose when you're moving the case or worse, hitting the motherboard.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

I can't really mount it in a drive bay because it's so small, smaller than a drive bay slot. I had no problem actually mounting the DVD drive and HDD though.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*

You need an adapter to mount the SSD.
Newegg.com - SSD mount


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: Desktop Build*

Glad your happy with the build! It will last you a long time!


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## toothman (Jul 13, 2008)

*Re: Desktop Build*



Tyree said:


> You need an adapter to mount the SSD.
> Newegg.com - SSD mount


I've always just used electrical tape to mount smaller drives in larger bays :dance:


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*



Tyree said:


> You need an adapter to mount the SSD.
> Newegg.com - SSD mount


I suppose if I were building a PC with SSD for somebody else, I'd definitely want to secure the SSD to a drive bay.

I might try a DIY solution with some kind of tape or fasteners.

Also, here's a video of my PC doing a cold boot from SSD:
Windows 7 - Cold Boot - SSD - YouTube
So much for getting a snack while my PC boots up, it's just too darn fast.


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## gcavan (Aug 13, 2009)

*Re: Desktop Build*



> I might try a DIY solution with some kind of tape or fasteners.


Not my preferred solution but Velcro tape will secure the drive in any orientation yet be easily removed/replaced.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

Oh man... I was getting MEMORY_MANAGEMENT blue screens. Turns out one of my two RAM sticks was defective, got over 100 errors in memtest. Downgraded to one stick for now, ordered another 4 GB stick of Corsair Vengeance RAM.

Amazon.com: Corsair Vengeance Blue 4GB (1x4GB) DDR3 1600 MHz (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory (CMZ4GX3M1A1600C9B): Electronics


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

Either Corsair makes poor quality RAM, or I just had some bad luck. I think it's just bad luck.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Corsair RAM is good quality. The RAM has a lifetime warranty but if the sticks were purchased as a matched pair you will need to RMA both sticks. That's preferable anyway so you have a matched pair.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

I guess if I'm going to return both sticks, I'd have to purchase more RAM first to remain operational anyway. I can't run my PC with no RAM. :grin:


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

I actually managed to blue screen a virtual machine before I removed the bad RAM, which was nice, because I could take a screenshot of the error.








Once my blue 4 GB stick of RAM arrives, I'll memtest it before taking steps to return/replace my bad RAM.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Sporkinator said:


> I guess if I'm going to return both sticks, I'd have to purchase more RAM first to remain operational anyway. I can't run my PC with no RAM. :grin:


Your choice, purchase new RAM or wait for the return.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

I purchased a 4 GB single stick that is the same brand, clock speed, and timing as the first RAM, so it will run my PC until I get my 8 GB replaced. So, in the end, I'll have 12 GB of RAM. I won't be returning the single 4 GB stick unless it happens to go bad.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Your Mobo is Dual Chanel. Using the 3 sticks together will result in Single Chanel Mode and performance will suffer.
When you get your replacement RAM, remove the new stick to take advantage of Dual Chanel Mode and it's performance advantages.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

Oh, I see. Will do. I guess there's a reason why users run 4, 8, 16, and even 32 GB of RAM, but I never hear about in-between amounts, like 12. Must be something to do with binary and powers of 2. Thanks!


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## toothman (Jul 13, 2008)

Sporkinator said:


> Oh, I see. Will do. I guess there's a reason why users run 4, 8, 16, and even 32 GB of RAM, but I never hear about in-between amounts, like 12. Must be something to do with binary and powers of 2. Thanks!


It's only about the dual-channel feature. Two sticks running in dual-channel mode are effectively ran as though they are one stick with twice the speed. Like RAID with hard drives, each line of code written to RAM is split between the sticks (0 to the first stick, 1 to the second, etc.), which halves write time. Adding the third creates a second channel with only one stick, which will be slower any time it's utilized, giving an inconsistent feel to RAM performance.

Maybe if you had 2x2gb and added a single 4gb stick you'd get improvement simply from no longer reaching capacity, but with 2x4gb you don't have to worry about that.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

I got the new RAM, and it's not defective. I guess I should figure out how to return the 2x4GB set for a replacement. I've never had to return an online purchase before.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

https://secure.newegg.com/Guest/RMALogin.aspx


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

I didn't purchase through NewEgg, I purchased on Amazon. It appears I simply need to return via Amazon and print a return label and drop off the item at a UPS location. Thanks though.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

I got my replacement 8 GB RAM, did 1 pass of memtest on each individual stick. No errors, RAM appears to be working. I now have the matched pair (2 x 4 GB) installed in adjacent RAM slots on the motherboard.

I have a question though: Why is my RAM not running in dual channel mode?








It's supposed to be 1600 MHz, I only see 800.


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## Vadigor (Apr 19, 2009)

Are the adjacent slots of your motherboard also the same *bank*? Check your motherboard manual. Usually, slots of the same bank have the same colour and they're often placed ABAB, so if you inserted your modules into adjacent slots you likely put them in different banks.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

I've got the memory installed like this (Green shows which slots I am currently using):









I've also got this block diagram:








I'm not sure how to makes sense of this information.

Oh, and the RAM slots are all the same color.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

The Mobo manual will tell you the two slots to use for Dual Chanel Mode.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

Finally found it.








It appears I'm using slots 2 and 4 when I should be using 1 and 2. I'll try this later when I'm home again.


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

Great success. Dual channel.








It still appears to be 800 MHz though, instead of the expected 1600 MHz.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Amazing what you can find in the Mobo manual, that should be read thoroughly "before" the build. :smile:
DDR is Double Data Rate. Multiply the DRAM Frequency shown x 2
2 x 800.9= 1600.18


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## Sporkinator (Aug 20, 2009)

Tyree said:


> Amazing what you can find in the Mobo manual, that should be read thoroughly "before" the build. :smile:
> DDR is Double Data Rate. Multiply the DRAM Frequency shown x 2
> 2 x 800.9= 1600.18


Oh, then my RAM is all set now. :grin:

Yeah, it was pretty bad of me not to fully read the manual. :facepalm: I also checked my SATA cables and plugged my SSD into a proper 6 Gb port. It was in a 3 Gb port before.


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## Vadigor (Apr 19, 2009)

Glad to see you figured it out. Enjoy your build.

You might want to Prime95 overnight as well as a few benchmarks to make sure your cooling remains stable under load. Look at Unigine Heaven/Valley and RealTemp and GPU-Z to monitor temperatures.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Sporkinator said:


> Oh, then my RAM is all set now. :grin:
> 
> Yeah, it was pretty bad of me not to fully read the manual. :facepalm: I also checked my SATA cables and plugged my SSD into a proper 6 Gb port. It was in a 3 Gb port before.


The Mobo manual should be thoroughly read prior to doing anything else. :smile:
Boot to the Bios, watch the temps voltages for a few minutes. If all is well, you should be good.
Glad you got it all resolved and working properly. Use and enjoy!


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