# How to build a Super Reliable computer



## anonieimouse (Nov 3, 2012)

I have been building my own computers for several years now. I have come to regard the HDDs as being the most critical components in a computer, because if anything else fails, you need only replace it, and you are back where you started; BUT if the HDD fails, you have lost all your data, and it is not so easy to get back where you started.

For this reason, every computer that I have evry built, has at least TWO HDDs, and usually THREE HDDs, so that in the event of an HDD failure, I have copies of my data on other HDDs.

This machine that I am using right now, has a Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3L motherboard, (I prefer Gigabyte motherboards, because they no longer use failure prone electrolytic capacitors), an Intel 2.4 GHz Q6600 Quadcore processor with a Thermaltake MAX ORB EX heatsink, (my processor typically runs in the high 30 or low 40 odd degree celcius range), 4 Gig of DDR2 RAM, a Sapphire Radeon HD 4850 video card with 1 Gig of DDR3 RAM, A Soundblaster Audigy soundcard, 2 LG Super Multi DVD drives, and 4 HDDs, 3 of which are identical SATA drives, (2 internal and 1 in a "Hot Swap Tray"), and 1 IDE drive also in a "Hot Swap Tray". My "C" drive with the Windows install is on the SATA drive in a "Hot Swap Tray" and I have a spare duplicate "C" drive on another identical SATA HDD in a "Hot Swap Tray" sitting on a shelf in the event of emergency. Further one of the two internal SATA drives has yet another Windows "Boot Partition" - "D" drive on it which can be set as the "Boot Drive" by going into the bios and altering the sequence of the HDD boot priority. Additionally, the other internal HDD has my "E" drive on it which is where I install most of my software, and keep copies of downloaded install programs.

NOTE : Each of the three SATA drives in this machine has 5 partitions on it.

Apart from that, I have a total of 18 HDDs in Vantec EZ-Swap "Hot Swap Trays", (8 SATA and 10 IDE), which can be used to restore any given partition on this machine if necessary, or to transfer data between various machines. 

Another feature of this machine is each HDD has a cooling fan which sucks air from inside the machine, across the HDD, (cooling it), then blows the air OUT of the machine by way of a duct, so HDD heat does not warm up other components. Further, all the inward blowing fans are fitted with custom made "Dust Filters" so as to insure the machine stays clean inside.

All in all pretty reliable, though I have had to restore my "C" drive from a "Norton Ghost Image" file on an HDD in one of my "Hot Swap Trays" a couple of times.

Anyone here got anything better ?


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## Babbzzz (Jul 14, 2011)

Hello :wave:

I think the Power Supply Unit is the most important part. Always have a good quality PSU, it is one of the components that are most prone to failure if not of a good quality. All parts depend on it. 

www.techsupportforum.com/forums/f255/tsf-hardware-teams-recommended-builds-2013-a-668661.html


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

"How to build a Super Reliable computer"
Simple........Use top quality components like we list in our Suggested Build List.
While the Hdd is the most important component to store/preserve data, the PSU is the most important component overall. All components rely on the PSU for a sufficient supply of clean power.


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## anonieimouse (Nov 3, 2012)

Your list of components includes Western Digital 500 GB Caviar Blues, which are out and out GARBAGE !! I bought 10 NEW WD Caviar Blues, and tested 8 of them with TESTHDD, a very good freeware HDD checking program. 1 of the 10 was not even picked up by the bios, - DEAD,- and except for one, which had only minor sector damage, and a starting read speed of 145,000, the other 6 tested ALL had major sector damage, with starting read speeds ranging from 115,000 right down to 75,000. No more "Caviar Blues" for me, Western Digital, YES, but Caviar Blues, NEVER !!

Further, like I said before, If your PSU dies, replace it and you are back where you started; but if Your HDD dies, not so easy to get back where you started.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Sorry to hear of your misfortune with the WD Hdd's but your case is not the norm and does not make the component "garbage" in general. I have used hundreds of the WD Blue series with very few problems and WD has always replaced the problematic units without issue.
Our build list was composed by Tech Members who primarily build with/sell/use the components we list.

I respect your belief that the Hdd is the most important PC component to you.
Personally, I regularly deal with failed PSU's in my shop, and the damage than can be incurred when they fail, making me believe the PSU to be of the highest importance. 
However, as mentioned above, using top quality components will commonly prevent issues.


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## anonieimouse (Nov 3, 2012)

Yes, using top quality components, is a good idea, BUT that doesn't solve software problems, i.e. viruses, crosslinked files, or otherwise damaged software, all of which are far more common than equipment failures, (assuming you arn't using out and out junk).

This is why I prefer to have at least a "Dual Boot" machine, wherein the reserve "Boot", ("D" drive on this machine), is only used to repair the "C" drive by running "Norton Ghost" to restore "C" drive from a "Ghost Image" file kept in reserve on an IDE drive in a "Hot Swap Tray"; or to import data from a SATA drive in a "Hot Swap Tray", (which requires that I shut down the machine, and remove the "C" drive "Hot Swap Tray' in order to install the SATA data storage drive in a "Hot Swap Tray").

NOTE : I have "Ghost Images" on a big IDE drive of : "C" drive, "D" drive, "C2" drive, (My spare "C" drive sitting on a shelf in a "Hot Swap Tray"), and "E" drive which is my software partition. 

Makes it pretty reliable, and easy to fix problems.


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

a dying power supply can cause systems to show what appear to be software issues when there are none. The psu is the most important part of any system.

I have never had any issues with WD,seagate or samsung hard drives.

You only get viruses if you dont protect your system properly and are sensible on-line. I have never had a virus since 2001.


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## anonieimouse (Nov 3, 2012)

Then I would suggest that you get ahold of a copy of TESTHDD, which is an excellent HDD checking program, that will show faults, that other programs overlook. i.e. It has the ability to show you a graphical map of the read speed of the entire drive; wherein undamaged sectors show as a flat line, and damaged sectors show as spikes upwards from that line, wherein the higher the spike, the worse the damage; and if the spike goes to the top of the graph the sector is unreadable.

My NEW Caviar Blues, had spikes runing two thirds of the way up the graph on over one third of their surface. = GARBAGE !!

Would also note that a lawyer I know had only one HDD in his machine, and that HDD failed. Ready ? It cost him $2000.00 to get a data recovery company to recover his data from that HDD.


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

I have used that program for ages aswell as apps like setools, acronis etc etc.

Some hardware fails its a fact of life, some people are unlucky. Like I said I have never had a hard drive fail yet although there is always a first time.

Just because a few people have issues with a certain make of something doesn't make it crap, it would make it crap if there were lots and lots of people.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

Ever think it was the software that was malfunctioning? I, and many others, use SeaTools to test all hard drives as it is much more reliable and does a great job at testing hard drives. Plus it's free too!

You can change the HDD in the build list if you don't like it for one you want.

Also just because you have a dual boot doesn't mean viruses will be less likely. You need to understand how to protect yourself.

Moving on...Is there any other questions you have about building a new PC? If not select one of recommended builds in our list from post #2 and change the HDD to one you see fit.


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## anonieimouse (Nov 3, 2012)

Oh I use F-Secure, and Antimalwarebytes to guard against viruses. Nonetheless however I occasionally get a Virus problem that they can't spot. That Is when I switch to "D" drive and use it to restore my "C" drive from a "Norton Ghost Image" file. Ghost wipes the drive completely, then rewrites it from the image, which solves the problem.

As for what HDD I would use, NOT Seagate, have had issues with them too. The type of HDD that I am planning on using in my new machine is : WD RE4 WD2503ABYX which is a highly reliable, thoroughly tested before sold, 250 GB Western Digital drive, of which I intend to get 5. Two internal, one in an installed "Hot Swap Tray", and two more in "Hot Swap Trays" in reserve.


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## Rich-M (May 2, 2007)

Well I certainly agree the hard drives are very important and never use anything but WD, but I use WD Blues quite successfully like Tyree does and have had a few bad ones and several hundred good ones over the years. I never use Samsung or Seagate as I had more than enough issues with both of them for a lifetime but I do use Hitachi now and then successfully.

One thing we definitely have in common also is belief in extra internal hard drives as I always have at least one extra where I store Macrium image files and Handi Backup file copy and storage. While I do use external drives now and then, never for anything important and I do not rely on them for any part of my normal backup plans except on my laptop. Forums are filled with "my external drive shows raw" or "won't open" and to me usb ports are the most treacherous ports on the computer and I try as hard as I can to use other ports so my external drives are mostly 1394 drives as well. I never buy an external case or drive unless it has more than 1 type of port for access so it must be e-sata and usb or 1394 and usb or I won't use it.

I have played with various types of "caddies" for internal drives, but prefer to just use an extra internal drive is all mounted in the case. I backup files and data as synched every hour or day depending on what the file is and how often I use the program and make weekly image files of each whole system.
In the middle of the month weeks I use incrementals and when I make the next full file for the following month I then delete the incrementals to make room. Now I should add I use a Proliant server for all important files and backup the server from whatever pc is on at the time to the extra internal hard drive so every pc is also a backup pc as well.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

> Nonetheless however I occasionally get a Virus problem that they can't spot.


Then you need to be better on the web. Not visiting websites that can hold malware is a good place to start.

I never said to use Seagate hard drives. I said to use SeaTools Software. Besides Seagate and WD are really the only two hard drive manufactures. So either way you'll be getting a WD or Seagate HDD.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

anonieimouse said:


> Yes, using top quality components, is a good idea, BUT that doesn't solve software problems, i.e. viruses, crosslinked files, or otherwise damaged software, all of which are far more common than equipment failures, (assuming you arn't using out and out junk).


Infections are not related to, nor do they effect, hardware. 

The thread topic is " How to build a Super Reliable computer" so lets stay with that topic. :smile:


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## anonieimouse (Nov 3, 2012)

Well, I don't want to conflict with the "Mamager" here, BUT, as I said Software problems are much more common than Hardware problems, so it is a good idea to design your machine in such a manner as to enable the restoration of undamaged software, no matter how badly your windows installation is screwed up.


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

software issues only happen if: They are not coded correctly, haven't been installed correctly, conflict with other software, system requirement issue amongst others but the main reason software problems occur is down to user error and poor management.


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## MPR (Aug 28, 2010)

I always build for reliability and economy. One way that I do this is to never purchase any motherboard or other piece of hardware that has not been on the market for at least six months. After six months, there is usually a second hardware revision and most of the important incompatibility issues have been documented and new firmware and drivers written to address them. Not only this, but the components will usually have come down in price too.

The second thing, and the techs here say it time and again, is to purchase quality components. Inexpensive doesn't necessarily equate to cheap but "rock-bottom" pricing usually does. For example, you can get a 750 Watt PSU for $20 at a clearance warehouse sale. However, you will probably find that it's a no-name with low-quality components, bad soldering and two-generations old tech providing high currents on the less-used 3.3 V and 5 V rails with only a pathetic trickle of current on the 12 V rails, where modern systems draw most of their power. In my experience as someone with an electronics degree, I think that the PSU choice should be budgeted for first when building any system. Currently, the best enthusiast-level PSUs are Seasonic-made.

Also, don't feel that you have to build at this very moment. Of course, you can take the “quick and easy” approach by just choosing one of the recommended builds here and have yourself a fine system. However, if you spend a couple of weeks reading and watching reviews you may decide that that a slightly tweaked build better suits your needs. YouTube reviews of things like cases are good as they let you see the item from all angles; the better reviewers also build with the items so you know how they fit together. Also, Newegg TV's, “How to Build a Computer” series is always a good watch for a first-time builder. When you pare your components selection down to two or three choices, download the manuals and read them and also read the buyer feedback on the manufacturer's and seller's sites before making your final choice.

Finally, look to your left and see what the forum members and techs here have built with. Most of these computers are day-to-day workhorses that have been chugging along with few problems for years.

Speaking of viruses, I follow the advice posted here by the Malware-removal group and gals and have never had an infection. That's not the case for others, however -- I recently spent half a day ridding a laptop of malware that was picked up buy a college student who was rather oblivious to the fact that one shouldn't visit just any website or click on every e-mail link that you are forwarded.


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## MPR (Aug 28, 2010)

Speaking of hard drives, I've always had good luck with Western Digital. I used to build with Seagate but then they started having problems (which they have long-ago corrected, BTW). I've been lucky but I literally have never had a Western Digital drive fail. I've even got an old 160 GB SATA drive that was used in a system for about ten years that I've recently been _trying_ to get to fail by running drive tests over and over on it -- so far it's still working perfectly.

As Master-chief said, Seagate and WD (along with Toshiba) are the only major HDD manufacturers left, having bought up all the other ones. This graphic shows some of the consolidation:

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...ard_Disk_Drive_Manufacturer_Consolidation.svg

There are more SSD manufacturers, the better ones being, of course, the better memory chipset companies. I have always gone with Crucial (Micron) RAM and have never had a single cause to complain. After reading reviews on SSDs I found that Crucial was one of the less expensive and more reliable. Thus far I've had no problems with my Crucial SSD.


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## anonieimouse (Nov 3, 2012)

I am no fan of "Crucial" because it is just the top of the "Micron" line, and I have had plenty of problems with Micron RAM. Fact is, as I understand it, they changed their name to "Buffalo Select" which is so bad that it is no longer sold in North America. For RAM I use either "Hynix" or "G-Skill". As for OLD HDDs, Maxtor was best in my opinion. Why ? Because I built a Super 7 Machine then tweaked it with "WPCredit".

WPCredit ? Well that is a program that allows you to access ALL OF THE CHIPSET SETTINGS, about 24,000 of them, and alter them as you will. Fact is a lot of mobos, have the chipset settings setup VERY conservatively to enhance reliability, so their boards will work with low quality components, like Micron RAM. Using WPCredit, I was able to increase memory read speed by about 50% and increase memory write speed by 100% on a DFI K6BV3+ Rev B board with a K63+ 450 ACZ that was overclocked to 618 MHz. BUT in testing various settings with WPCredit, you can frequently cause the machine to abruptly crash, and reboot. And when I was testing WPCredit settings on that DFI board, I must have crashed it over 200 times; BUT my Maxtor Diamond Max HDDs remained in perfect condition according to TESTHDD.


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## Rich-M (May 2, 2007)

anonieimouse said:


> I am no fan of "Crucial" because it is just the top of the "Micron" line, and I have had plenty of problems with Micron RAM. Fact is, as I understand it, they changed their name to "Buffalo Select" which is so bad that it is no longer sold in North America. For RAM I use either "Hynix" or "G-Skill". As for OLD HDDs, Maxtor was best in my opinion. Why ? Because I built a Super 7 Machine then tweaked it with "WPCredit".
> 
> WPCredit ? Well that is a program that allows you to access ALL OF THE CHIPSET SETTINGS, about 24,000 of them, and alter them as you will. Fact is a lot of mobos, have the chipset settings setup VERY conservatively to enhance reliability, so their boards will work with low quality components, like Micron RAM. Using WPCredit, I was able to increase memory read speed by about 50% and increase memory write speed by 100% on a DFI K6BV3+ Rev B board with a K63+ 450 ACZ that was overclocked to 618 MHz. BUT in testing various settings with WPCredit, you can frequently cause the machine to abruptly crash, and reboot. And when I was testing WPCredit settings on that DFI board, I must have crashed it over 200 times; BUT my Maxtor Diamond Max HDDs remained in perfect condition according to TESTHDD.


You are a bit off base here as Micron ram most certainly is sold in America and I would bet it is the most sold here. GSkill you are recommending also just happens to be Micron ram as well. And Maxtor drives may have been good at one time, but by the time Seagate merged with them, they were really a big time problem and I sure wouldn't use them. I think when Maxtor bought Quantum hard drives, that was the end of Maxtor reliability.


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## LMiller7 (Jun 21, 2010)

> Then I would suggest that you get ahold of a copy of TESTHDD, which is an excellent HDD checking program, that will show faults, that other programs overlook. i.e. It has the ability to show you a graphical map of the read speed of the entire drive; wherein undamaged sectors show as a flat line, and damaged sectors show as spikes upwards from that line, wherein the higher the spike, the worse the damage; and if the spike goes to the top of the graph the sector is unreadable.
> 
> My NEW Caviar Blues, had spikes runing two thirds of the way up the graph on over one third of their surface. = GARBAGE !!
> 
> Would also note that a lawyer I know had only one HDD in his machine, and that HDD failed. Ready ? It cost him $2000.00 to get a data recovery company to recover his data from that HDD.


When using any utility it is important to properly interpret the results. The graph is intended to show transfer speed, not damaged sectors. If the drive was not able to read a damaged sector there would be no data to transfer and thus produce a downward spike. But I would expect that there would need to be a large number of bad sectors to significantly influence the graph. But there other causes of a downward spike not related to drive health.

HD Tune has a display of colored blocks that will show damaged sectors after a scan. This, not the speed graph is need to show bad sectors.

I suspect that the 10 drives you received were damaged in shipping, such as a larger containing box being dropped. This could easily happen with no apparent damage yet seriously damage the disk drives. Typically such a container would be marked as fragile but busy shipping people don't always pay due attention to such things.

The lawyer should have kept a backup of the drive contents. No drive built or ever will be can be trusted with no backups. Even if drives never failed a backup would be needed for protection against data lost due to accidental or malicious file deletion, malware, etc.


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## anonieimouse (Nov 3, 2012)

Well Micron RAM would not work stabley on either the DFI K6BV3+ Rev B Super 7 board or on the FIC VA_503+ Super 7 board. That is why I switched to Hynix, though the Micron would work on an ASUS P5A-B Super 7 board, BUT ASUS overvolts EVERYTHING on their boards to enhance reliability, at least they did then.

Re TESTHDD, the graph shows DAMAGED but still readable sectors as spikes, i.e. slow read time because of sector damage. Re the Caviar Blues that I bought bear in mind that not so long ago, the country where they are produced was hit by MASSIVE flooding. I bought 5 from a seller on E-Bay and tested all of them. 1 was dead, 1 had scattered minor sector damage and a high read speed, and the other 3 had major sector damage and a low read speed. I returned them to the seller, then bought 5 more from a local store, and tested 3 of them. ALL 3 had major sector damage and low read speeds. The other 2 are still in the sealed plastic boxes they came in. No more Caviar Blues for me. Instead I will be getting Western Digital WD RE4 WD2503ABYX drives.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

Tyree said:


> The thread topic is " How to build a Super Reliable computer" so lets stay with that topic. :smile:


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## MPR (Aug 28, 2010)

Google's _Failure Trends in a Large Disk Drive Population_ may now be a bit dated but it's still a good read if you are wondering what makes a hard drive fail.

http://static.googleusercontent.com...ch.google.com/en/us/archive/disk_failures.pdf

Tom's Hardware's report on a newer Russian study expands on this information:

Study: A Look At Hard Drive Reliability In Russia - Practical Relevance

It's interesting that Seagate seemed to have considerably more failures compared to drives sold than did Western Digital.

Hitachi had the most reliable drives. This company has since been absorbed into WD and Toshiba.


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