# 2001 Chevy S10 lost power



## coleboyko (Jun 11, 2010)

I have a 2001 S10, 4.3L LS Pickup and I have a few problems with it.

The only upgrades I did was install a Genaric (no name) Cold Air Intake and a Muffler...


1. I'll start with the crappy gas mileage, I don't get it, why do I only get 14 miles to the gallon in the city and 16 on the high way, does anyone know why? I hate this truck because of that.

2. Another thing, I put a Cherry Bomb glasspack muffler on it and there is a little exhaust leak and I think the catalitic converter is all broken up inside plus the O2 sensors are probably not as good as they used to be. If I fixed the exhaust system would I get better performance?

3. I was going to upgrade to 3 ich exhaust from the cat back, would that be a good idea or should I just leave it at 2 and a quarter?

4. I used to get great performance out of this sport truck and now when I step on it I get pretty much nothing anymore, it's also hesatant. I used to be able to burn rubber when the light turned green for about a half block in DRIVE and now I cant even sqeal..

5. I recently did a tune-up in May and before the tune up I got 355 km in a full tank and now I get 406 km but I also replaced the fuel filter.

6. We sprayed Carb Cleaner down the carb and that stalled the truck then it went from 200 RPMs to 1000 RPM very quicky and back and forth like it was dieing, it cleared up after about a minute. That scarred me.

7. When I step on it I think it is safe to say that I 'somehow' lost 40% of the overall power for that truck and I am very dissapointed in Chevy or my self.

**What can or should I do?**


THANKS
COLE BOYKO


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## kjms1 (Jun 4, 2010)

maybe all those 1/2 block burn out just burned up the engine

you failed to tell us how many miles on it
were is the exhaust leak that can drive a O2 sensor crazy
a compression check will let you know if the engine is weak
a exhaust system that is stopped up will cut the performance way back a muffler shop can torch 2 hole in the pipe and do a flow test


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## speedster123 (Oct 18, 2006)

I thought that year 4.3 was fuel injected ?


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## Midnight Tech (Dec 31, 2001)

Are you getting a "check engine" light and if so, what coes are you getting?


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## coleboyko (Jun 11, 2010)

I never did as many 'burnouts' as you think, maybe about 3 just to test, i treat that truck like I just baught it.

It has 100,000 kilometers on it and the exhaust leak is right infront of the muffler my friend installed.


I have no engine lights on, no oil lights, no nothing, the only thing wrong with it is the performance is half gone.


*Maybe it's because I do concrete and pull a couple thousand pounds of base all the time and sometimes I have to rush to places...*


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## kjms1 (Jun 4, 2010)

exhaust leak back there isnt going to effect the O2

100 Kil isnt much at all but if you been hauling all the weight a lot of the time .... isnt good for 1/4 ton v6

except for no power does it run ok .... is the engine idling smoothly ... is there noises you are hearing from the engine, any funny smells .... info can make it easier

you know we can run you around ragged on this, where a trained ear can tell thing just by hearing it run and have a idea what to look for 

ready
compression check to make sure engine isnt worn out 
check exhaust for restriction ... done with a vacuum gauge
check timing chain for wear
run a scan on the computer and look at parameters ***important***
check for vacuum leaks & how much vacuum does the truck have at idle 
check carb ... might need a kit and a good soaking (cleaning)

might want to loosen dist and bump the timing up a little and see what that does


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## Raylo (Feb 12, 2006)

Is there perhaps anything odd with the transmission? I had a S-10 and it had a shift solenoid fail so first gear didn't work. Starting out in 2nd gear gave the impression of no power. Just a thought for something to consider....


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

speedster123 said:


> I thought that year 4.3 was fuel injected ?


It is, starting in 89 they stopped carbs and started out with the TBI on the 4.3, later models had either CPI or Multi port, here in the U.S anyway

coleboyko, It depends on the rear end My S-10 Blazer only got 17 on a good day< but if you did a tune up and the mileage didn't go up check the alt output, Your alt "should" put out 13.5vdc at idle, and the bat "should " hole 12.5 min with the eng off.
Also replace the old oxy sensors 100k is about the life expectancy for those buggers, your exhaust system is fine, just plug those holes for insp, but 2 1/2" is just fine. Also burning the tires when they eng is newer can lead to a worn out tired eng when its old. Stock Chevy trucks are built for hauling, not drag racing, the ability to "burn rubber" is a byproduct of the engines power it makes for pulling weight.


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## coleboyko (Jun 11, 2010)

Q: except for no power does it run ok .... is the engine idling smoothly .... is there noises you are hearing from the engine, any funny smells .... info can make it easier.

A: It runs nice, but but when it idles it goes up and down a little, you wont notice unless its dead silent and you stare at the tacometer and feel it... There is no noises except for the fuel pump and pinging in the alternator. No smells. And I think the Catalitic converter is broken and I have a restriction because when I put my hand at the end of the exhaust I also get nothing. (Anything else you would like to know?)

And when should I change the O2 Sensors and what is the average price. Because I dont want to buy a crappy set and then realize I could have spenr 20$ more on a good set, you know?




Cole Boyko


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

A clogged cat is a really bad thing, that ALWAYS requires a replacement, but I DON NOT EVER recommend gutting one, because that is (1) illegal and (2) is not the best idea because the exhaust pipe is made to the length with a cat so it'll be too short.

A pinging in the alt? dude, yank the alt and toss it unless you have a rebuild shop nearby. pinging is not a good thing to hear. the rpm going up and down tells me there is a vacuum leak somewhere, either internal or external, if all else fails check the vac lines to the heater control too, they can make your life hell finding a leak.

O2 sensors are usually good till they send the signal for th light to come on. theres no sure way of knowing which one will last longest. But you get what you pay for most times, as long as what you pay for comes with a reputable name on it. Average price for a good one is somewhere around $50 here.


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## coleboyko (Jun 11, 2010)

I think I am going to drill 2 holes and check the catalitic converter, that way ill save money if I dont have to replace it. I checked for Vaccum leaks and I didn't find any but my dad said that was probably the problem. The throttle body was a tiny bit loose, I could turn each bolt almost once and the back bolt 3 times, That made a small difference. We changed the ail and put a 6 dollar bottle of Fuel Injector cleaner in as well, and topped it up with the "Silver" type gas and that gas is for "better performance"


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## kjms1 (Jun 4, 2010)

If you can feel very little out of the exhaust pipe it is most likely stopped up, a vacuum gauge can tell you if the exhaust is plugged up ... engine idling look at the vacuum reading, rev the engine up to about 2500 to 3000 and the vacuum should be as much or more, if not the exhaust is stopped, How bad??? depends on how low the high rpm vacuum reading is 

and i would replace the throttle body gasket they are known for blowing the back of it out and with the bolt being lose and back pressure replace it for the few bucks it will cost


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## coleboyko (Jun 11, 2010)

I have a 2001 Chevy S10, 4.3L V6 and I am sure I have a Vacuum Leak somewhere. This truck has been performing really poorly lately, it is hesatant to go and it does not idle smoothly/proporly. It goes up and down. If you rev it and then let go it will drop below normal idling and then move back up and after that is then idle like it has a Vacuum Leak.

I need the Vacuum Diagram/routing so I can check all the lines. I've checked a few already visually and then I sprayed Carb Cleaner to check if the idle is changed.

If you know or have a routing then please contact me at xxxxxx or reply with a picture.



Thanks
Cole Boyko


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

They no longer put the vac routing on a sticker located under the hood??


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

coleboyko said:


> I have a 2001 Chevy S10, 4.3L V6 and I am sure I have a Vacuum Leak somewhere. This truck has been performing really poorly lately, it is hesatant to go and it does not idle smoothly/proporly. It goes up and down. If you rev it and then let go it will drop below normal idling and then move back up and after that is then idle like it has a Vacuum Leak.
> 
> I need the Vacuum Diagram/routing so I can check all the lines. I've checked a few already visually and then I sprayed Carb Cleaner to check if the idle is changed.
> 
> ...


Let me finish replying to 2 days worth of email and I'll look around on the net and see what I can find, BUT just in case theres nothing out there, I have to recommend replacing ANY cracked, stiff, burnt, or otherwise damaged vac lines one at a time, that way you will always get the right line on the right nipple, my wife says theres nothing like being on the wrong nipple


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## coleboyko (Jun 11, 2010)

Thanks, Wolfen and anyone else who helped with this. I looked at the Vacuum lines and saw only one line, it was fine, no leaks. I will check for the routing under the hood, BUT just in case, keep looking for me haha.


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

YW man, might take a while though I was on Google last night for two hours and so far all I can find is forum after forum about a Monty Carlo LOL


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

Found a place.........

http://www.google.com/images?q=2001...&ei=PN8fTMuQOMGZOL-5jZIK&sa=N&start=0&ndsp=18

Try here and see if you can find yours


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