# How do I replace this wall-substance?



## Chrno (Jul 25, 2008)

I personally, am an idiot to common sense things...

I stuck something to a wall, like an adhesive that completely pulled the wall with it (or that substance that is what it is)...

I'd be dumbfounded if it was just paint...but to me it doesn't seem like paint. 

Here's a picture of my wall.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Is the wall porous, i.e. if you put a little water on it, does it suck it up or just run down it?

Where is this wall located, basement?

BG


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## Chrno (Jul 25, 2008)

It's not a basement. It's a regular housed wall. 

The wall-substance that is painted over by white will drip to the ground. 

I was thinking there was something that I could just easily put on there that would replace it...but it's not that easy I guess.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Well it is not a normal wall material, that I can tell, at least none that I have seen in the USA. Kind of looks like a fiber board that has bad a 
textured paint on top.

I guess you can try some spackling, the kind that is used on drywall. Good luck on matching the texture.

BG


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

How about a wider angle pic? It could be a thin vinyl coating over fiberboard. How old is the house or the wall?


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## mack1 (Nov 27, 2007)

Hi Chrno,



> The wall-substance that is painted over by white will drip to the ground.


Do you have water pipes in your walls? Hard to imagine a substance that would drip to the floor that isn't being fed from something. 

If you are confortable that there isn't anything feeding the spot, use a putty knife and dig it out. Fill the hole with sheetrock mix (spankling compound) and smooth with wide putty knife or other edged tool. If you dig it out deep, let it dry and then reapply. On the last application and while it is still wet, use a paint roller with a medium knap and lightly roll over the place. That will give you a matching texture. 

Let it dry and then paint it using a roller. You may have to put on two coats to keep a light colored spot from showing through. 

Hope this works for you.

Best regards,
Mack1


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## Tumbleweed36 (May 14, 2005)

Take a box cutter knife and cut out that spot going down in approximately 1/4 inch deep. Dig all that out with a putty knife so you have a nice hole that does not have ragged edges (use a razor blade if needed to cut off ragged places). 

Then take some spackling compound and fill that hole up some and put some drywall tape (the kind with adhesive on the back like a nylon mesh is best for a repair like that) from the wall that is not damaged over and covering the hole and continue to apply spackling over the tape and the hole. Let that dry before you do anything else.

Then, when that is dry, sand lightly, then put a smooth coat of spackling over the tape and hole and feathering it out to the wall leaving it just slightly higher than the surrounding wall area. When that is dry, then sand lightly feathering in from the wall until it is smooth and you most likely won't see where it was before. 

Been there and done that many times.

Addendum: Your best friend is either a large (very wide) putty knife or a drywall applicator that looks like a putty knife but is much wider. I would suggest one about 4 or 5 inches wide for a smooth job.


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## Chrno (Jul 25, 2008)

SABL said:


> How about a wider angle pic? It could be a thin vinyl coating over fiberboard. How old is the house or the wall?


I was thinking this also. The house...I'm not sure...I believe around 80s or so...I forgot time period.



mack1 said:


> Hi Chrno,
> Do you have water pipes in your walls? Hard to imagine a substance that would drip to the floor that isn't being fed from something.


Sorry, I didn't clarify myself. I was answering the question in which if I sprayed water on the wall, would it drip. And yes it would. 

The latter part, I do not understand. I mean, there's really nothing wrong with the wall, it's just that coating isn't there anymore (though that adhesive took a lot of that).

---

Tumbleweed/Mack1...as much as I want to say that I understand a lot of those instructions. I don't think that I understand enough of it. The substance that is covering the wall is called "spackling compound"? Can it just be a simple brush over (or am I thinking too simple)?

Thank you for all the responses. I'm just a little dumbfounded in regards to household common sense.


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## Tumbleweed36 (May 14, 2005)

Spackling compound is kind of like a very thick paste. You use it to fill holes when you have a hole in the wall. When it dries, it becomes just like plaster or drywall. When finished, it looks just like the wall and you can paint over it.


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## mack1 (Nov 27, 2007)

Hi Chrno,

Thinking it was a wet spot got us off track. That's the old paint showing where the top coat pulled off. 

If new paint won't stick to it, try cleaning it with a q-tip and windex, alcohol, or anything that will clean it enough for paint to stick. A small piece of fine sandpaper might do the trick. Repaint it with a small brush (water color or artist's brush). Matching the wall color will be the hard part and several coats will probably be required to cover the contrasting paint. 

Have a nice day,
Mack1


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

I guess the composition of the material doesn't seem to be important if you only wish to patch and paint. How critical is the area? Is it readily noticed by guests (living room or similar) or is it out of the way and just an annoyance for you?

I kinda wanted to see a wider view due to the "detail" I noticed on the left side of the pic. It is either a seam or a pattern in the wall surface. I was wondering if this is the actual wall or if it is a type of accoustical overlay. Hard to tell with a close-up.

Geographical area can also help in determining the material you are dealing with, you'd be surprised by the techniques and materials that are used in different parts of the country (or world).

If you wish to patch and paint just follow BG, TW, or Mack's instructions. I won't go into detail about the spackling paste (also called "joint compound"), that's been covered. The only suggestion I can make is for you to maintain a "low angle" when using a putty knife or a broad knife and work the compound as little as possible. Don't just use the tool in one direction.....you need to "work" the compound into the damaged area by using the tool in at least two directions for the best adhesion.

Good luck and keep us posted!!
SABL


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## Chrno (Jul 25, 2008)

I will post a clearer picture up tomorrow for you to see Sabl.

So a simple paint over is all I need? To me, it doesn't seem like it's just a simple paint over, it's like the adhesive took the coating with it.

Actually...I put the adhesive in random places of this room that I am showing you, so there are like spots of that type all over the room...:upset:

However, I will try to post a clearer picture up very soon. I'll macro mode it with detail and take a picture of the various markings of the wall I can reach. 

Thank you for your responses once again.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

The line on the left is a cord w/ shadow.

BG


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Thanks BG...guess I need new glasses!!! You are very correct!!

Let's keep going on with this project..... 

Glad someone has good vision!!!
SABL


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

No Problem on the picture -I blew it up to see what it is was. It kind of looked a seam to me at first.

I would go with a little spackling/dry wall mud, try to match the texture then try to match the paint.

I would not try to cut it out and patch it with a piece drywall.

I would still like to known what is it, the board material and what is the coating is made of.

BG


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## Chrno (Jul 25, 2008)

SABL, I just reread your question and I answered it wrong. Haha. Yes, it's just some headphones. :wave:

Here are better pictures. I do agree, I don't want to cut out the wall and replace it...my house might fall down because of that. (I feel my house is pretty weak. 

I used macro mode to get as much detail as I can. 



This second picture (I meant to take a picture of the random spots but I must be blind tonight) shows a wider view of it. I pointed to where there's another one, but I covered it up with some paper...not noticeable yet. 



P.S. Yes. That's crayon on the wall...that's what happens when you leave your nephew unattended with a box of crayons. 

----

The only thing I worry about is the fact that I want it to have the same texture. Anything else regarding matching color, is minuscule to me right now.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

OK, It appears to be a wood fiber type board 

Are there seems exposed in this wall - like were they butted up sections together ? 

Where do you live ?

BG


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Basic geographical location would be helpful in trying to determine the material that was used in your house. ARE there visible joints anywhere in the wall surface? 

I do have a solution in mind.....
SABL


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## Chrno (Jul 25, 2008)

Geographically I live in the very North-West area of Louisiana. There are no butted up sections together...not that I can tell.

There are no visible joints at all in the wall. The entire house looks exactly like that (the white coating all over the house).

I'm guessing fiberwood isn't all that great...?


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## kodi (Jun 30, 2004)

TIP, TRICKS & INFO

Gyprock Repair ... small holes
It is almost inevitable that you will need to patch or repair Gyprock somewhere in your house.

Small hole repairs are for holes left behind by picture frame hangers and minor gouges and scrapes in the Gyprock surface. Generally these repairs are accomplished with 1 or 2 coats of Gyprock compound applied with a putty knife. Before applying the Gyprock compound, use a sharp utility knife to shave away any protruding paper edges from the Gyprock surface. You will want to create a slight indentation so that your Gyprock compound will dry flush with the wall surface.

Apply the first coat of Gyprock compound no more than 3mm thick. Allow it to dry completely. Once dried, scrape the surface smooth using a wide putty knife and apply a second coat. Repeat the process until you have built up the compound slightly higher than the wall surface. Lightly sand to smooth out the patch and blend it in with surrounding wall.

Use a primer paint to seal the exposed Gyprock compound. After that, paint the repaired area with paint that matches the rest of the room.

Hints

*

Don't be in a hurry. Gyprock compound needs to dry overnight before you can sand it or smooth it out.
*

Gyprock compound tends to shrink as it dries. If you apply it too thick, it will also crack. Use several thin layers, allowing each coat to dry thoroughly.
*

Sanding Gyprock compound is a messy, dusty job. Close doors to prevent dust from messing up other parts of your house.
*

Gyprock compound can dry out and/or separate in its container during storage. You may need to mix it up a bit and possibly add a little water. You want a smooth and moist consistency, but not too wet.
*

In between coats of Gyprock compound, it is not necessary to sand. You can use a wide putty knife to knock off ridges and high spots. Leave the messy sanding until the end.
*

Don't over-apply Gyprock compound. It is more effective to apply several thinner coats. Also, thinner coats will dry faster. 

Another handy tip from Coates Mitre 10 Home & Trade Lithgow

© 2007 Coates Mitre 10 Home & Trade. All rights reserved. Designed and Maintained by Micar Enterprises


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Gyprock appears to be sheetrock/drywall, these walls are wood. 

That is why all of it is done in textured paint. Wood like this would take several coats for a smooth finish. Latex paint does not stick real well to 
"glued saw dust" panels.


BG


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## speedster123 (Oct 18, 2006)

*goo gone*
http://www.googone.com/products_gg.aspx


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## stressfreesoul (Mar 17, 2008)

I bloody hate woodchip. I spent years as a part time decorator, woodchip turned into a thing of nightmare for me. Its the most impossible thing to remove and work with.


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