# HP dv9000 Power Up.... NOT!!!



## phlyx (Apr 28, 2008)

A family friend was having problems with their fairly new HP Pavillion
dv9000 (P/N EZ458UA#ABA with Windows XP Media Center Ed 2005) and
asked if I'd take a look at it. Regardless of running on battery, or
from AC supply, or AC supply with battery removed, when you push the
power button all the blue display lights blip on for a fraction of a
second and then turn off and the laptop does nothing at all. No drives
spin up. Nothing on the display. Nothing. If you let go of the button
and re-press it, it does the same thing again.

The unit has no external damage and they stated this problem just
started out of the blue.

Any reset or something or is this pretty much power supply being
toast? And in case it is the power supply, how hard is it to replace it (this thing is out of warrantee I believe)?

Any and all help greatly appreciated.


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## TriggerFinger (Jan 30, 2008)

hi phlyx,

Welcome to the forum :wave:

so in short (hmm, sounds like it has a short indeed :grin, it immediately shuts off when you power it ON, am i correct?

i am assuming now that you are using the original AC adapter and not any other AC adapter.


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## phlyx (Apr 28, 2008)

TriggerFinger said:


> Welcome to the forum :wave:


Glad to be on board (and even more glad if I can get this thing fixed :grin



TriggerFinger said:


> so in short (hmm, sounds like it has a short indeed :grin, it immediately shuts off when you power it ON, am i correct? i am assuming now that you are using the original AC adapter and not any other AC adapter.


When the unit is plugged in (with the original AC power supply and cords), there is a blue light on at the plug input and I believe one on at the front of the case. When I depress (and hold) the power button, all the blue indiciator lights above the keyboard near the display flash on for part of a second and turn off and the unit just sits and does nothing. I even tried holding the power button down for a long time and the only result I got was a sore finger 

Any hints?


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## TriggerFinger (Jan 30, 2008)

i suggest you strip it down to just RAM. i mean, remove all external devices and remove the HDD, CDdrive, WiFi card, modem card if accessible. leave the RAM in place or if you can use a spare RAM stick the better. 

if you get a power ON, connect each of the removed devices one at a time starting with the original RAM, then the modem, then WiFi card, etc.. while powering the laptop ON each time you plug in a device.

if symptoms persist after stripping it down, replace the RAM if not yet done and power ON again. otherwise consider a motherboard replacement.


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## phlyx (Apr 28, 2008)

Did everything you stated except removing the DVD drive and it still does the same thing. Push the power button, a flash of blue lights above the keyboard and then off and no activity at all.

Motherboard? And if so, how hard is it to swap it out?


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## TriggerFinger (Jan 30, 2008)

replace the RAM if you have not done so yet.


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## phlyx (Apr 28, 2008)

TriggerFinger said:


> replace the RAM if you have not done so yet.


Don't have RAM to replace existing with but even removing the RAM didn't change the response. I thought booting without RAM would get me an error or beeping or something but only does the same thing. A flash of the display lights and then nothing.


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## TriggerFinger (Jan 30, 2008)

phlyx said:


> Don't have RAM to replace existing with but even removing the RAM didn't change the response. I thought booting without RAM would get me an error or beeping or something but only does the same thing. A flash of the display lights and then nothing.


booting without RAM will give you some beeps but no screen, will attempt to boot but shuts down immediately.


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## phlyx (Apr 28, 2008)

TriggerFinger said:


> booting without RAM will give you some beeps but no screen, will attempt to boot but shuts down immediately.


No difference in how it boots with or without RAM. No beeps either. And removed the DVD drive and still no difference.


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## TriggerFinger (Jan 30, 2008)

hi phlyx,

if you get nothing (not even a beep at start up), it could be the motherboard. replacing it is not so difficult if you have the HP DV9000 service manual to guide you.


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## DeadToad (Mar 17, 2007)

I have a dv9000z and just replaced the Heatsink/Fan Assembly because the CPU cooling fan was roaring.
I had to remove the motherboard to remove the Fan.
You have to take the laptop completely apart. It took me 4 hours to take it apart. And another 4 hours to put it back together again.
Download the Service Manual from HP's site and follow the directions for removing/replacing the motherboard.
It takes lots of patience. Just be careful and take it slow. Double-check everything as you are putting it back together.
Good luck.
Joe2Shoe. :laugh:


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## cyberwip (May 16, 2009)

I had same problem and it IS the motherboard.

Looks like their crowbar circuitry is failing.
You can tell it's a short by listening to the adapter as you plug it in and noticing a distinct increase in pitch.

This is a replacement motherboard HP gave me because the first one was defective. I hope they'll do it again.

I would kind of like my laptop at hope more than in for service.


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## TheLaptopXpert (Nov 14, 2009)

HOW TO FIX YOUR DV6000/DV9000/DV2000

All the Problems described in the previous posts are Graphics Related..
Faulty Nvidia Chip..Both Intel And AMD Based Motherboards..Though More Common on the AMD..

The symptoms of the Laptop Powering on and Shutting Off Repeatedly..Or.. Powering On and Having No Video...Or... Power Strip Lights Up, Beeps,Shuts Down...Or..No Power At All...Or.. Intermittant Loss Of Wireless/Video Goes In And Out/Touchpad Slows and Freezes..

To Fix this issue, You will need to Reflow The Graphics Chip.

I will Explain In Full Detail As To The Correct Method Below....

HP DV6000/DV2000/DV9000 Compaq v2000 Video Chip Reflow Instructions 

First Step Is Complete Disassembly Of All Parts And Components..
Remove RAM, Remove CPU, Of Course Remove Heatsink and Fan assembly.

Next Step is Insulating the Motherboard... You need to Protect The CPU area, The RAM area, Cover any plastic Plug ports.

Try to leave 1/4 inch area around the edge of the chip free of insulation.

To Insulate the Board.. I use thick pieces of Tin/Aluminum, you can fold up some aluminum foil (tin foil) About 4 folds thickness....

Now that you have your Motherboard Insulated... Make Sure There's Nothing Flamable Or Burnable Below the Motherboard... it will get quite hot underneath.

You will need a Heat Gun.. You can get one of these at your Local Home Improvement Store, they cost about $15 - $30.. You Will Use ONLY the LOW Heat Setting... I REPEAT..... USE ONLY THE LOW HEAT SETTING ....

Next You Will Need Some Coins.. Yes Coins.. 
8 Quarters and 2 Nickels... Put the 2 Nickels On the Bottom and Stack Quarters On Top...
Place The Stack Of 2 Nickels And 8 Quarters On Top Of The Graphics Chip...

The Reason for using the Coins: Using the coins serves a few purposes...
1) It Helps Transfers the heat Into The Chip More Evenly/Slowly
2) It Helps Hold The Heat Longer/Then Helps To Cool Slower
3) It Gives The Correct Amount Of Weight That Is Needed To Press The Chip


A Thing To Look Out For...

Hewlett Packard is nutorious for using the RED epoxy around the edge of the Graphics chip.. this epoxy is used to help secure the chip to the motherboard...
This is a process that is Hand Done at the Factory.. And Some Boards Will Have Only A Little Amount of this, Some Will Have Alot of it...And Some are Only Done On The Corner Edges....

If There Is Alot of This On Your Chip, You Might End Up Needing To Carefully (REAL CAREFULLY) Remove as much of this epoxy as able to....You can use a Razor Blade To Lightly Scrape This Off... DO NOT MISS AND SCRATCH THE MOTHERBOARD!!! Go SLOW...

Now Comes The Heating Of The Chip...

Start With The Heat Gun About 6 Inches Away From The Top Of The Quarter Stack..You want to be holding the gun at a 45% angle.. Aim the heat at the Edge of the chip, You Will Start Rotating Around the Chip- around the outer edge of the chip...then use tighter circles concentrating on the quarter stack, then after about 30-40 seconds, slowly move closer to the chip...
Never Move the Heat Gun Closer than the Top Of Your Coin Stack...Then Pull It Back And Slowly Repeat.. The Chip Needs To Get Hot Enough To Re-Melt The Solder Balls On The Underside Of The Graphics Chip Back Down To The Contact Pads On the Motherboard.. and this takes Quite Alot of heating to Do.... You Must Not OVERHEAT the CHip... It Is Best To Underheat it and have to Redo.. than to overheat.. It will cause the solder to break down and even crack/split.. causing failure forever...
This process will take about 3 minutes total.. Once you shut off the Heat Gun.. Leave The Stack of Coins On The Chip And Let Sit For Another 5 minutes..

Now Remove The Coins(carefull they might still be hot)
Remove All Insulation.. Reinstall RAM, CPU, Heatsink and FAN Assembly (and Of Course Thermal Pads or Paste.. Note:. If Paste Is Used.. It Must Be Silver Paste... 

Now You Can Connect The Power Button Strip/ Video Cable And The DC Jack Cable.... And Plug In AC adapter .. You're Now Ready To Test For Solid Power and Video....


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## phuef (Jan 18, 2010)

Dear TheLaptopXpert,
Thanks so much for the detailed instructions about hp motherboard repair in http://www.techsupportforum.com/f108/hp-dv9000-power-up-not-244626.html

I followed this on my HP DV9000 and it worked at first.
After reassembly I booted it up to test. It was left on, no programs running, overnight. The next morning, still with the beautiful XP desktop in good shape, it was shutdown to travel with. At destination, start up was again successful, but after running internet explorer (no other programs) for maybe 5 minutes, blue screen.... Then after hard reboot, it returned to blue light drill, nothing on screen, self power down, self power up blue lights, power down and repeat.

Any suggestions? Did I need to heat the chip a little longer perhaps?

In the whole repair process, I did make one other change. I removed the rubber pad under the heat sink that comes into contact with the chip. I replace it with a true copper Penny (pre 1980) with pure silver compound on both sides to improve heat conduction away form the chip. This was done with the other repairs, so the initial success occurred after these changes as well.

Is there still hope, or is this generally a sign that the fight is over?

Thank you!


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## rob0100101 (Mar 28, 2010)

That's exactly why you don't do stupid things like that. BGA reflow and reballing is a skill. These internet myths are temporary fixes that will ultimately result in permanent damage. 
*Quick lesson*: Damage from high/uncontrolled heat results in blistering, outgassing and delamination. Those are all irreversible. 
Your video chip is soldered in with a high lead solder (93% lead). This solder has a tendency to crack with repeat hot/cold cycles, and bridge (melt and short together) if the chip gets too hot. Stubborn systems that break down more than once should be reballed with a eutectic solder (37 lead/73 tin). Eutectic solder is less likely to crack from thermal cycles. Nvidia has pointed out that low-lead/lead free solder is vulnerable to electromigration. That's true, but electromigration isn't exclusive to video chips, so they probably never should have said that.
Your video chip failed because a bga joint failed (opened or bridged). After the chip is -- professionally repaired -- using a thermal profile and monitored by an experienced technician, modifications should be made to prevent future breakdowns.
The fan should be modified to run on high - this helps dissipate heat more effectively. A quality thermal compound should be used. Do not - repeat - *DO NOT* - use copper shims! Shims put too much pressure on the chip. The chip has no TIM (don't worry about what that means right now) - but simply put - the die is exposed. The die is fused. Too much pressure, and you break it. 
Now, as you learned the hard way, motherboard repair is best left to those who know what they're doing. On the same token, it is important that the end user (you) use a cooling pad to ensure that your computer continues to run as cool as possible after the repair. You don't get unlimited repair attempts. Repairing a motherboard causes stress. Too much stress eventually equals death.
Based on what I watched happen to you, you probably need your board reballed if not replaced. Actually, your video chip should probably be tossed and a new one installed. That can be done, it's just a little extra work. 
Don't believe everything you read on the internet. There's a lot of bad advice here.
Precision Division in Clearwater FL specializes in motherboard repair - and they know what the hell they're doing. If you have a question, ask a place like that. 
Just because someone is "A+ certified" or a computer repair tech doesn't mean they know motherboard repair - it's not typical computer repair work - it's very different. I can't tell you how many PC techs I know that don't know how to test a transistor. Good motherboard repair techs work long hours testing, documenting and problem solving. Some people will be insulted with this reply - but it's the truth. Not every pc tech out there knows how to repair motherboards. 

If you don't know how to fix motherboards -* STOP GIVING BAD ADVICE.*


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## DeadToad (Mar 17, 2007)

rob0100101, good advice, for those who will take it. Mobo repair is not for the inexperienced, as thermal changes are normal, and not understanding the process can lead to a dead mobo. 
If people aren't willing to spend the big bucks to have it done professionally, I would personally invest in a new laptop, or a good used one, without this GPU chipset problem. 
I reflowed the chipset on my dv9000z after it bit the bust after 2.8 years of use. BUT, I had 2 other laptops to use, and I considered the dv9000z totally worthless, and therefore took the chance, which did NOT work. Now, it's totally worthless and I sell parts from it. I only reflowed it myself as I did not want to spend the bucks to have it done by an expert mobo repairer, and because I'll never trust HP again, and because I was done with this laptop. 
I also reflowed a dv6000 laptop that someone gave to me for free with this same issue, and it did NOT work, either. No loss for me, and now it's also a parts machine. 
So, no more reflow jobs for me. But, I had nothing to loose, but time.


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

Hi a very interesting and informative lesson and the comments as to tech's and their skills is quite prudent any good tech knows there are some problems you are better at than others and will adivse where their skills best support and recommend you the best known place for your issue or at least try to point you in the right direction to get the help


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## bulabone (May 14, 2008)

no one said to disconnect the mobo battery.....power on to discharge.... leave it be for a min.... then plug mobo battery back in... and power on again.... worked for me.... it seams my internal wireless card was causing a short... and the only way to reset everything was pulling out the wireless card then following the above mobo battery directions.


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