# First time OCing  - dual core Intel E8400



## sli4 (Dec 4, 2007)

I've always built my own systems, but never attempted to overclock.. and Im looking for help doing so

So here we go!

System spec: 
Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Professional
OS Service Pack Service Pack 3
DirectX 4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)


Intel core duo wolfdale E8400 3.0ghz CPU
Processor Properties:
Manufacturer Intel
Version Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU
External Clock 333 MHz
Maximum Clock 4000 MHz
Current Clock 2833 MHz
Type Central Processor
Voltage 1.0 V
Status Enabled
Socket Designation Socket 775

video:
radeon 4650 512mb (with super loud crappy fan)

Audio:
Asus Dx PCIe audio card

Storage:
Disk Drive Maxtor 6B250S0 (250 GB, 7200 RPM, SATA)
Disk Drive WDC WD2500AAKS-00B3A0 (232 GB, IDE)
Disk Drive ST3250820A (232 GB, IDE)
Disk Drive WD My Book IEEE 1394 SBP2 Device (465 GB)
Disk Drive WD My Book IEEE 1394 SBP2 Device (465 GB)
Disk Drive Disk drive (465 GB, IDE)



MOBO
gigabyte ga-ep45-d53r rev1.1
Front Side Bus Properties:
Bus Type Intel AGTL+
Bus Width 64-bit
Real Clock 333 MHz
Effective Clock 333 MHz
Bandwidth 2667 MB/s



RAM
2x 2gb (4gb total) Crucial technologies PC2-6400 (400MHz) (2048mb)
[ Memory Devices / A0 ]

Memory Device Properties:
Form Factor DIMM
Size 2048 MB
Speed 800 MHz
Total Width 64-bit
Data Width 64-bit
Device Locator A0
Bank Locator Bank0/1
[ Memory Devices / A2 ]

Memory Device Properties:
Form Factor DIMM
Size 2048 MB
Speed 800 MHz
Total Width 64-bit
Data Width 64-bit
Device Locator A2
Bank Locator Bank4/5




Power:
ocz z series 850 watts


Sensor Properties:
Sensor Type ITE IT8712F (ISA 290h)

Temperatures:
Motherboard 39 °C (102 °F)
Aux 45 °C (113 °F)
Seagate ST3250820A 43 °C (109 °F)
WDC WD2500AAKS-00B3A0 39 °C (102 °F)
WDC WD5000AAKS-00V1A0 38 °C (100 °F)
Maxtor 6B250S0 43 °C (109 °F)

Cooling Fans:
CPU 7105 RPM

Voltage Values:
CPU Core 1.09 V
+2.5 V 1.90 V
+3.3 V 3.31 V
+5 V 5.08 V
+12 V 0.96 V
+5 V Standby 5.35 V
VBAT Battery 3.26 V
Debug Info F 5F FF FF
Debug Info T 45 39 254
Debug Info V 44 77 CF BD 0F 02 06 (77)


as for FANS:
Stock fan on the CPU, 120mm fan on back blowing outwards, 80mm temperature controlled fan blowing in on front end. And side ventilation of tower case. (I havent gotten a new CPU fan as they seem a bit pricey for a good one that runs silent -which is necessary)

IDLE TEMP:
At idle for about 20 minutes the cores stayed around 41 deg Celsius

Running scans and defrags and such to for load - 53deg Celsius

apparently my graphics card and gpu isnt up to par with OCCT - so I could only stress test my cpu - 30min of that yeilded a max of 68deg Celsius but stayed around 66 for the majority of the time.


now with all that information (let me know if I left anything out) 
...how do I go about overclocking? 
Thanks!


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## Niram (Jun 20, 2009)

You will need an after market cooler if you want to overclock

don't attempt anything until you do so


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## sli4 (Dec 4, 2007)

well that's understood... 

What is a good cooler to get that will be inexpensive and as silent as possible? 

And... for when I do get a new CPU fan... 
how do I overclock this system?


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Any particular reasons for wanting to OC?
Are you experiencing any performance problems?
OC'ing voids warranties.

OEM CPU coolers are good for light OC's. I'm running a E7200 (2.53) at 3.0 using a OEM HSF and my temps run about 32C idle and no more than 40C under a good load.
This ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro is a good economical unit at $30.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186134

You might want to check your Voltages in the Bios. What ever you used for your post shows your +12V at 0.96V

Good post by Team Mate linderman to get you started: http://www.techsupportforum.com/f27...erclocking-read-here-for-starters-232382.html


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## sli4 (Dec 4, 2007)

Tyree said:


> Any particular reasons for wanting to OC?
> Are you experiencing any performance problems?
> OC'ing voids warranties.
> 
> ...


thanks for the response...
My computer was a custom build I put together over a year or two ago - Im pretty sure all my warranties are up anyway.. But Im just looking to get better performance out of my set up - I find sometimes I get lag and the computer gets kinda choppy/locks up when Im running a lot of apps that I need to be running at the same time/multitasking. If I can get the computer to work faster I'd rather that then think about upgrades right now. (OCing is also something I'd just like to understand more and be able to do)

Im not very well versed as to what should be and shouldn't be in terms of voltages - should my 12v be running at 12v? Or is .96 typical? (that may be a really dumb question, so please humor me)


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## Johnny1982 (Oct 15, 2010)

Your voltages shouldn't have a difference of more than 5 percent between the actual volt and the reading you're getting. Try Hwmonitor to verify your voltages.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

sli4 said:


> Im not very well versed as to what should be and shouldn't be in terms of voltages - should my 12v be running at 12v? Or is .96 typical? (that may be a really dumb question, so please humor me)


The 12V should be no more than plus or minus 5% of 12V.
Use the Bios for the most accurate Temp & Voltage readings.


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## sli4 (Dec 4, 2007)

Tyree said:


> The 12V should be no more than plus or minus 5% of 12V.
> Use the Bios for the most accurate Temp & Voltage readings.


I checked this in my bios - its reading at 12.6ish... Which I think means its ok?
I duno what that read out what saying about it being so low.


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## mario74 (Dec 2, 2010)

sli4 said:


> thanks for the response...
> My computer was a custom build I put together over a year or two ago - Im pretty sure all my warranties are up anyway.. But Im just looking to get better performance out of my set up - I find sometimes I get lag and the computer gets kinda choppy/locks up when Im running a lot of apps that I need to be running at the same time/multitasking. If I can get the computer to work faster I'd rather that then think about upgrades right now. (OCing is also something I'd just like to understand more and be able to do)
> 
> Im not very well versed as to what should be and shouldn't be in terms of voltages - should my 12v be running at 12v? Or is .96 typical? (that may be a really dumb question, so please humor me)


What you need to do is to get your memory speed up. You are getting what is called a bottle neck. The front side buss is 1333 and your memory is at 800. Essentially your processor is sending information faster than your memory can receive it. You need to look up your memory and find out its maximum rated speeds, timings and voltages for those speeds. Also you will need to check your motherboard specs to see how far it can go. If you can get it up to 1066 or 1333 you will see a great improvement.


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## mario74 (Dec 2, 2010)

If you want a really easy, user friendly way to over clock use Gigabytes Easy Tune6. One click and a restart and it does every thing for you. You can get it from here - http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=2851#utility


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

your board and cpu are awesome overclockers; your cpu and board can get to 3.6ghz with only one adjustment and no voltage increases; from there 3.8ghz is also easy and rather safe also. 4.0ghz and higher is the "other side of the mountain" so to speak, it can be done; but gets tuffer and more risk.

IMHO a third party after market cooler is a worthy investment; although like my team mate said, the stock version can achieve light overclocking.

here is my reccomendation

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186134&Tpk=artic freezer 7


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

BTW:

please give me some info about what make and model computer case you are using?

we need to know the location / size / and direction of air movement for each fan in your box. I ask this because for a non overclocked system your hard drive temps are a tad warm 

also; what is the approximate room temperature of your comptuter room and where do you live (climate wise)


motherboard (system temp) and power supply (AUX temp reading) are a tad high also ?


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

also please download cpu-z (free) and give us your memory stick model numbers (this info is found in the SPD tab of cpu-z panel)


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## sli4 (Dec 4, 2007)

linderman said:


> your board and cpu are awesome overclockers; your cpu and board can get to 3.6ghz with only one adjustment and no voltage increases; from there 3.8ghz is also easy and rather safe also. 4.0ghz and higher is the "other side of the mountain" so to speak, it can be done; but gets tuffer and more risk.
> 
> IMHO a third party after market cooler is a worthy investment; although like my team mate said, the stock version can achieve light overclocking.
> 
> ...


I like the sound of that I don't think I would need to hit that 4.0 mark but the 3.8 would be quite nice. I'll be picking up one of these after market coolers!

This is the case I have COOLER MASTER Centurion 5 CAC-T05-UW Black Aluminum Bezel , SECC Chassis ATX Mid Tower Computer Case 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119068

I don't recall if it came with case fans but they have all been replace if so with a silenX fans - 80mm temperature controlled fan in the front pulling air in and a 120mm fan (not temp controlled) pushing it out the back of the case. 
I kept the cup on the side panel of the case to direct air flow from CPU out of the case as well. 

Im not sure what the room temperature is but outside its around 32f in winter and high 80s to 90sf on average in summers. 
I'd say the room the computer is in is generally a comfortable warm room temperature but by no means a "refrigerated" room - I don't know exact temps for the room.

Also. - Sorry about the memory info - I thought I had submitted that too....

The info it gives is:
DDR2
2048MB
PC2-8400(400mhz)
Crucial technology
No part number provided 
Correction: none
registered:none
buffered:none
SPDext: none
Week/year: 33/08
timing tables:
@266mhz: 4.0, 4, 4, 12, 15
@333mhz: 5.0, 5, 5, 15, 19
@400mhz: 6.0, 6, 6, 18, 22
No command rates info for any
Voltage is 1.80V for all 3
Memory is in slots 1 and 3 (same info in both slots)


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

ok lets spend alittle time on your case fans

what determines how much "fresh" air your intake fan brings into the case ? how is it "controlled"

assuming your computer room is say 70F or 21C your motherboard temp should be alot more like 30C-35C

and your hard drive temps should be more like 30C


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## sli4 (Dec 4, 2007)

hmm... The speed of the fan is controlled by a connected sensor (part of the fan) that I threaded to sit by the hard drives... The air it pulls in through the "meshlike" front of the case and passes the hard drives in the front where it is then pulled out of the case by the rear exhaust 
The tower is kept on the floor and not in any cabinet or anything like that that would block the intake and exhaust fans.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

Ok; well I would suggest you turn up intake air up; once we get started overclocking we are going to increase system temps by 5C-10C which is not going to be really healthy for your system as you are at those temps now ?

you may want to get a 120mm exhaust fan with a faster RPM level (like 1800rpm's) to improve air flow (scythe makes some fast and quiet case fans) the stock 120mm rear exhaust fan is kind of lame on the centurion for a system that is getting cranked up


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

this one will go from 1200 to 2000rpms and the noise will go from 25 to 30dba


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209011


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## sli4 (Dec 4, 2007)

the fan that Im currently using is one of the silenx fans as well not the stock fan...it runs quite silent at about 9dba-11dba (supposedly) which is important as I use the computer for a lot of audio work.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

well simply enter the MIT section of your bios 

set CPU HOST CLOCK CONTROL to [Enabled}

then set CPU HOST FREQUENCY to [400] 

those are the only two things that need to be changed to hit 400 x multiplier of 9 = 3.6 GHZ

beyond that you will want a new cpu cooler and you will need to improve your system temps inside the box (move more air )


check your temps with Core Temp (free app)

also try Sensorsview Pro (15 day trial period)

run OCCT for at least one hour / abort testing if cpu reaches 65C or failure is seen

if by some weird chance you get a system hang (very unlikely at 3.6ghz) simply enter the bios and hit "load optimized bios defaults" then save and exit bios


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## sli4 (Dec 4, 2007)

wow that does seem like some pretty easy steps! Next chance I get to shut down my computer Im going to give it a whirl... 
Im definitely looking into a better CPU cooler and Im going to try to find some case fans that will keep the system running silent and be more effective.


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## sli4 (Dec 4, 2007)

so I ended up picking up that artic freezer 7 fan... Its great. Definitely cooling off my computer more. I've been running at 3.6ghz for a few days now with no trouble at all..

linderman, you said it would be pretty easy to get my computer up to 3.8 and possibly even 4.0? 

What do I need to do for the 3.8.. I doubt I need to go up to 4 though at this point. 
But what is it that makes the 4.0+ push "the other side of the mountain?


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

sli4 said:


> so I ended up picking up that artic freezer 7 fan... Its great. Definitely cooling off my computer more. I've been running at 3.6ghz for a few days now with no trouble at all..
> 
> linderman, you said it would be pretty easy to get my computer up to 3.8 and possibly even 4.0?
> 
> ...



as with everything in life, there is a pinacle, 4.0ghz is the pinacle for the e8400......you can get there provided the rest of your system is optimized for it; 3.89ghz i smuch easier to hit and lower maintenance too; your call, I am with you till hell freezes over


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## sli4 (Dec 4, 2007)

well that's understandable with the configuration I have does it seem like the rest of my system would handle it? Or is that a whole new trail to go down? 

Regardless of that - how do I go about pushing it to 3.89 GHz? Is it the same method as I had to do for 3.6?


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## sli4 (Dec 4, 2007)

sli4 said:


> how do I go about pushing it to 3.89 GHz? Is it the same method as I had to do for 3.6?


bump


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

raise your cpu host controller to 430ghz

raise your cpu voltage to 1.33 

run OCCT stress test for one hour / abort test if 65C or higher is reported

often times you have to tweak several things in bios to achive stable

keep me posted


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## r00x (Feb 13, 2011)

65C is somewhat conservative according to the datasheet (I always recommend you attempt to acquire the datasheet for your processor - very handy for overclocking!) the 65W TDP of the E8400 qualifies it for a maximum operating temperature of around 72C with longevity, like the majority of the Core-i chips.

The datasheet tells you everything about your processor's absolute limits:

http://download.intel.com/design/processor/datashts/318732.pdf

Also if you have an infrared thermal probe (they're cheap handheld no-contact temperature sensors) they're invaluable for testing the temperature of regions of the motherboard surrounding the CPU. Your motherboard does not have heatsinks on the voltage regulation modules that power your processor - as you overclock, you will be stressing those more and they're going to get pretty hot so they're worth keeping an eye on.

Most VRMs are rated to beyond 100C, but you really don't want to be in that ballpark!


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## sli4 (Dec 4, 2007)

so i got around to testing everything out...
i raised the cpu controller to 430ghz and pushed the cpu vcore up to 1.33257 
there were two options in the 1.33 range - so i picked the lower of the two i think the other was 1.336xx or something like that. 

ran the stress test and saw that it did hit 66C at one point.. but it stayed at 63-64C for 99 percent of the test. 
after the test it immediatly dropped down to about 44C

so it seems like everything's running well at this point. if those numbers sound right to you guys?


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

looks all good to me. 66C for a brief perios is not bad at all; if 66C was the sustained temp then I would be looking for improved air flow; but it all looks good to me


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

I would now lower the vcore to 1.32 and see if you can pass OCCT for one hour again. Thats how overclocking is done; you get a passing test then you drop the voltage another .01 until it fails then increase by .01 and run again; that way you are assured you are running only the increased voltage needed to stay stable and not more.


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## sli4 (Dec 4, 2007)

that's good to know. Thanks for the tip. 
I noticed that before this latest change, the vcore was set for auto and was set at an auto level of 1.25 volts. Even when overclocked at 3.6 it was still set to auto at 1.25. 
Would the auto setting adjust itself to compensate? 
Also.. Is there any overclocking worth doing with the ram as well?


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

when set to "auto" the vcore will automatically raise as needed; but sometimes auto settings can cause too much voltage to be applied; thats why most experienced overclockers will set the vcore manually

another thing you can do is watch the vcore as its reported from OCCT / watch for one hour the highest the vcore will fluctutate to; then add .02 to that number and enter it in the bios for vcore / all motherboards will have some vcore "droop" which adding the .02 will compensate for

what is the model number of your ram sticks and what ram configuration are you using ( 2 x2gb sticks or 4 sticks of ram etc etc etc) the ram model number can be found using CPU-z / mmeory tab / spd tab


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## sli4 (Dec 4, 2007)

that's good to know.. From when I was watching occt.. im pretty sure the vcore didn't go above 1.30
here's the ram info:
RAM
2x 2gb (4gb total) Crucial technologies PC2-6400 (400MHz) (2048mb)
[ Memory Devices / A0 ]

Memory Device Properties:
Form Factor DIMM
Size 2048 MB
Speed 800 MHz
Total Width 64-bit
Data Width 64-bit
Device Locator A0
Bank Locator Bank0/1
[ Memory Devices / A2 ]

Memory Device Properties:
Form Factor DIMM
Size 2048 MB
Speed 800 MHz
Total Width 64-bit
Data Width 64-bit
Device Locator A2
Bank Locator Bank4/5


Also, to note: someone pointed this out in an early post in this thread 

""What you need to do is to get your memory speed up. You are getting what is called a bottle neck. The front side buss is 1333 and your memory is at 800. Essentially your processor is sending information faster than your memory can receive it. You need to look up your memory and find out its maximum rated speeds, timings and voltages for those speeds. Also you will need to check your motherboard specs to see how far it can go. If you can get it up to 1066 or 1333 you will see a great improvement. ""


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

check you "effective fsb speed" from within cpu-z / you will not have any bottleneck from your memory

your memory should be running at 860mhz right now if your memory multiplier is set at 2.00 D in your bios? are you familiar with this ?


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## sli4 (Dec 4, 2007)

I'm not really familiar with it
.. I couldn't find "effective fsb speed" but under CPU it says my bus speed is 430mhz and its rated fsb is 1720mhz (which drops down to 1719.9mhz every now and the. 
I'm pretty sure my memory is running at 800mhz - but again, im not very familiar with those setting in the bios


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## sli4 (Dec 4, 2007)

checked my bios and saw that its set to auto on the memory multiplyer. When I change it to 2.00D nothing changes to 860mhz visably in the bios settings. 

I ran occt again dropping my voltage down to 1.25 and it ran with no problems/errors.. My CPU temperature actually seemed to be even cooler than running at 1.3. 
Is there a point where I should stop dropping the voltage? im not going to drop it any lower than 1.25 until I hear back that it's okay/I should.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

I would leave it as "is" there is no benefit to going any lower

leave your memory at 2.00D (it wont show 860mhz in the bios) but it will show the memory speed at 860mhz in the cpu-z


you didnt give us your ram "model numbers" those are only found from within cpu-z at the SPD tab


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## sli4 (Dec 4, 2007)

I just checked the spd tab.. I don't see a model number...

Here's what I have: module size 2048mbytes
Max bandwidth pc2-6400 (400mhz) 
Manufacturer crucial technology
Part number is empty 
Serial number ffffffff

Also, I don't see anywhere on CPU-z where it shows any variation of the number 860mhz for my memory
im not very familiar with what im looking for but I figure if im not seeing the number you're saying I should see anywhere within the tabs of cpuz, then something isnt acting right.


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## sli4 (Dec 4, 2007)

additional note: if I change from auto to 2.0D in my bios it drops my memory's frequency from 1032mhz to 860mhz. (auto has it set at 1032) 
Will this drop be a negative drop?


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

sli4 said:


> additional note: if I change from auto to 2.0D in my bios it drops my memory's frequency from 1032mhz to 860mhz. (auto has it set at 1032)
> Will this drop be a negative drop?


yes / leave it at auto then / sounds like all is well as you have it now.


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