# Faulty washing machine



## JohnthePilot (Mar 30, 2006)

I've got a problem with my washing machine that, despite my physics background, I can't explain.

When a wash cycle is finished the machine becomes unusable. If I remove the plug from the wall socket and then plug it back in it makes no difference. However, if I remove the fuse from the (UK) plug and put _the same_ fuse back in, the machine works. There is no scorching on the fuse clips that disturbing the fuse would clear. This happens after every cycle. It just doesn't make sense. Any bright ideas, anyone?


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## bruiser (Jul 30, 2005)

Have you tried plugging the washer into a different circuit to see if the same thing happens?


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

Any GFI's on the system?


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## johnwill (Sep 26, 2002)

Define unusable? I ran into one that had the lid switch disconnected. It would run one load through and then refuse to run. If you unplugged it for 30 seconds, it would run one more load and then stop. Fixing the lid switch solved the problem.


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## JohnthePilot (Mar 30, 2006)

Completely dead. No lights on and no response to any buttons. It doesn't matter how long I leave it unplugged but as soon as I re-seat the fuse it works again.


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## johnwill (Sep 26, 2002)

You seem to have answered your own question. It's obviously something do do with the cord and fuse!


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## JohnthePilot (Mar 30, 2006)

I've replaced the plug and socket to no avail; I've still got the same problem. You would say that narrows it down to the cable, but why would taking the fuse out and putting it back make it work?


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## oscer1 (Jan 27, 2010)

Do not know what washer you have maybe an issue with control board.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

Still can be the Cord(cable). Replace the fuse anyway and that will narrow down the problem.


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## johnwill (Sep 26, 2002)

JohnthePilot said:


> I've replaced the plug and socket to no avail; I've still got the same problem. You would say that narrows it down to the cable, but why would taking the fuse out and putting it back make it work?


Since there's no power on the machine when you're tinkering with the fuse, it is 99.9% that it's either the fuse or the cable.


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## JohnthePilot (Mar 30, 2006)

I've now replaced the cable, socket, plug, and fuse and still have the same problem. It defies logic.


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## johnwill (Sep 26, 2002)

JohnthePilot said:


> It defies logic.


Yes it does. Now I have no idea what is going on!


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## oscer1 (Jan 27, 2010)

I still think it’s a board issue


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## johnwill (Sep 26, 2002)

That's certainly a good guess, hard to believe that tinkering with the fuse is the trigger.


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## Deejay100six (Nov 24, 2007)

I think Bill_Bright might be able to answer this one.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

When it's not working, replace the machine plug with a different device and see what happens.


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## Deejay100six (Nov 24, 2007)

Corday said:


> When it's not working, replace the machine plug with a different device and see what happens.


Ahh, you mean an intermittent fault with the socket?


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## JohnthePilot (Mar 30, 2006)

Deejay100six said:


> Ahh, you mean an intermittent fault with the socket?


I can assure you there is absolutely nothing wrong with the socket. I replaced it and, out of curiosity, dismantled the original. Same with the plug.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

John: In Post #16, I was suggesting you try anything that's 230V, 50Hz in the same socket as the machine after failure, but before replacing the fuse.


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## JohnthePilot (Mar 30, 2006)

Corday said:


> John: In Post #16, I was suggesting you try anything that's 230V, 50Hz in the same socket as the machine after failure, but before replacing the fuse.


Yes, I have and no problem.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

That indicates in in the machine Control Panel.


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## oscer1 (Jan 27, 2010)

yep thats what i was thinking when i said control board


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## JohnthePilot (Mar 30, 2006)

Corday said:


> That indicates in in the machine Control Panel.


I agree, but why would just reseating the fuse fix it? It's not logical. Unplugging should have the same effect.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

As Dave mentioned earlier, maybe Bill Bright will take a look at this thread. He's good at this kind of thing.


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## HavFun (Oct 26, 2009)

You might want to consider investigating the quality of the ground at the outlet the washing machine is connected to... grounding has been through some SILLY iterations over decades... like using copper water pipes or sheet-metal forced-air heating/cooling ducts as grounds. And even if there is a copper grounding rod buried 10 feet in the ground, if it is very old (more than 30 years old), it can be mostly dissolved. The proper fix would be to have a new ground rod installed and a new grounding bond established. The only problem with testing a ground is that you need a known-good ground for a reference. Another possible trouble point can be any wire splices between your washing machine outlet and the fuse box/circuit breaker box. If those wire splices are "friction" splices with crimped connections or wire nuts, remove whatever is holding the wires together, solder the correct wires together and insulate the solder joints carefully. Over time, this type of electrical connection can become oxidized or the screw-thread pressure holding the spliced wires together can become loose or oxidized (or both). I would also recommend checking the washing machine outlet... if the electrical wires are held on with screw terminals, make sure all of them are tight... heating and cooling from 1000s of washing machine cycles over decades can cause friction connections like screw terminals to loosen. You can then also have the fuse-box/circuit breaker panel examined to be certain all of those screw-down terminals are all still tight and "fresh" (so they conduct easily). Finally, there is probably a main circuit breaker on or in your home that is separate from the fuse box/circuit breaker panel. Find it. Disable power supplied to it, then make sure the screws on the terminals in that main circuit breaker are all tight. Our 1969 home (USA) had the electrical ground connected to the copper pipe that connected the house to the fresh water service under the street. In 2014, we dug up that copper water line to examine it for corrosion... the copper was so thin, it was super-easy to bend the copper with a finger or two. Pin-holes were developing in the pipe. This was bare copper pipe buried 43 years earlier and it probably should have been replaced 5 or 10 years ago. The replacement pipe was coated with plastic to prevent corrosion with dirt and moisture to stop the corrosion more permanently. I once had an electrical problem caused by the wire in the walls of the house coming into contact with ONE stray nail inside the wall. Over decades, the nail pierced the insulation and made a high-resistance path to ground on the "hot" side of the wiring to a bathroom. It produced odd problems until the nail was found and the wire was protected.


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## oldtreker (Aug 3, 2014)

JohnthePilot said:


> Yes, I have and no problem.


Do you have volt monitor ?









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Poniie PN2000 Plug-in Kilowatt Electricity Usage Monitor Electrical Power Consumption Watt Meter Tester w/Extension Cord - - Amazon.com



www.amazon.com


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## jGecko (Oct 27, 2020)

*Poor programming for BOTH problems?*


johnwill said:


> Define unusable? I ran into one that had the lid switch disconnected. It would run one load through and then refuse to run. If you unplugged it for 30 seconds, it would run one more load and then stop. Fixing the lid switch solved the problem.


johnwill, Yours seems another weird one too...that doesn't make sense from a safety standpoint. These days I would think the default for a broken switch disables the motor immediately and wouldn't even let one start a load never mind finish a load. The thing's processor should be testing the lid switch every time it's used.


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## larrya (Oct 12, 2009)

Try flicking the breaker off & on a few times...
When it isn't working, can you use your meter to find out where the power stops along the chain from your plug to the circuit board? Remember that having voltage present does not mean you have the current available to run the machine (bad connection somewhere between power box & m/c)... 
Have you tried running an extension cord to a different room (on a different breaker)???


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## johnwill (Sep 26, 2002)

jGecko said:


> *Poor programming for BOTH problems?*
> 
> johnwill, Yours seems another weird one too...that doesn't make sense from a safety standpoint. These days I would think the default for a broken switch disables the motor immediately and wouldn't even let one start a load never mind finish a load. The thing's processor should be testing the lid switch every time it's used.


You know that and I know that, that's why it was so confusing! My only guess was that they didn't test the switch the first operation after a complete power cycle.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

larrya said:


> Try flicking the breaker off & on a few times...
> When it isn't working, can you use your meter to find out where the power stops along the chain from your plug to the circuit board? Remember that having voltage present does not mean you have the current available to run the machine (bad connection somewhere between power box & m/c)...
> Have you tried running an extension cord to a different room (on a different breaker)???


If you read the original post you'd see the OP has a fuse box, no breaker switches.


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## GregoriBurkhalt (Nov 18, 2013)

Assuming that the operator does not engage in ESD procedures, it would appear that the handling of the fuse would introduce exterior capacitance to the system, which would either drain or add capacitance to the control circuit and thus allow the system to recover. I live in an area with poor radio reception, and the position of my body in relation to the antenna makes radio reception possible; possibly the same effect is what is occurring here. Being a physicist myself, I am aware of the myriad fields involved so it is logical not to be on top in every field. This is not a solution to the problem but an explanation as to the nature of the problem.


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## JohnthePilot (Mar 30, 2006)

GregoriBurkhalt said:


> Assuming that the operator does not engage in ESD procedures, it would appear that the handling of the fuse would introduce exterior capacitance to the system, which would either drain or add capacitance to the control circuit and thus allow the system to recover. I live in an area with poor radio reception, and the position of my body in relation to the antenna makes radio reception possible; possibly the same effect is what is occurring here. Being a physicist myself, I am aware of the myriad fields involved so it is logical not to be on top in every field. This is not a solution to the problem but an explanation as to the nature of the problem.


Thanks. That's a possible explanation.


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## JohnthePilot (Mar 30, 2006)

JohnthePilot said:


> Thanks. That's a possible explanation.





GregoriBurkhalt said:


> Assuming that the operator does not engage in ESD procedures, it would appear that the handling of the fuse would introduce exterior capacitance to the system, which would either drain or add capacitance to the control circuit and thus allow the system to recover. I live in an area with poor radio reception, and the position of my body in relation to the antenna makes radio reception possible; possibly the same effect is what is occurring here. Being a physicist myself, I am aware of the myriad fields involved so it is logical not to be on top in every field. This is not a solution to the problem but an explanation as to the nature of the problem.


I tried discharging any residual charge there may be across the plug pins but no difference. It seems that the fuse has to be physically removed and replaced. However, the machine has now started making dreadful noises so I suspect the main bearing is packing up. Perhaps it's time I invested in a new machine.


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## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

If you want Brand New, be prepared for sticker shock.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

Found a cheap one on line.


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## JohnthePilot (Mar 30, 2006)




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