# 1996 Audi A4 Quattro



## GZ

Boy am I glad to be back in a real car... Not that there was anything wrong with the Mitsubishi Lancer that I drove around for the past 5 years. 

Just picked up the car in the thread title... She is mechanically sound, has a new transmission and runs like a champ. The 2.8L V6 fires right up and purrs like a kitten. 










The dealer/owner wanted $4500 for the car but I wasn't willing to pay that. First thing I did was shop around and look at some other cars. Audis to be exact... I am partial to VW/Audi... I have owned numerous of them, the most recent before this one was a 1995 90 Quattro Sport. After going over the car and talking with the dealer we settled on just over $3k... a little more than I wanted to spend, but the guy had a great local rep and business is bad. 

KBB value on the car in it's present condition is about $4000 or so... But, it's not all that bad.

The paint is in pretty good shape for it's age but it isn't perfect. The clear coat on the right frond fender has peeled off the first 6" or so... Thanks to Midnight Tech, I am ready to tackle the job myself! It's got a few minor dings in the hood (bonnet for all you UK types :grin

Now... Onto the reason I started this thread... I love cars and I love owning nice cars that not only run nice, also look nice.

With a car that is 15 years old, there are bound to be some issues... so I figured I would share the issues and my solutions as an on-going project.

I hope you don't mind.


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## GZ

First issue... The climate control unit was acting up... The LCD wasn't displaying and the lights would flicker on and off. Took a look around and found I could get a replacement for between $50 and $200 depending... My unit is in good cosmetic condition, so I figured I would see what was wrong with it...

First thing I did was check the light bulbs... Simple thing to do... Run a 12V lead and ground... If the light comes on... she's good.

All but one of the lights tested to work... so that wasn't the issue.










Checked over the main circuit board and found nothing visibly wrong with it. Ran some trace continuity tests and everything seemed good...










So I moved on to the display board... Taking this apart was an excersize in patience. Three of the six tabs were cracked before I split it from the face plate. Took them off and super glued the one that could be repaired. Then I removed the LED panels from the circuit board and viola... There it was as clear as day... 4 out of the 14 solder joints were cracked!!! Heated up the trusty old soldering iron, desoldered the points... brushed some fresh flux on and resoldered all 14 joints. Then I cleaned the LED contact pads with some alcohol to be on the safe side.










As you can see... Climate control unit is now functioning properly (with the exception of the right sides illumination being out!)










Some things are best repaired and not replaced!!!!


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## reventon

Wow! Seriously great detective work there GZ (and a nice car too).


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## GZ

The next issue is with the center armrest/storage-cover. The cloth was stained and threadbare, so I decided to re-cover it.










Split the two halves to reveal the edge of the cloth and the foam.










Being as cheap as I am... I dug through my drawers and found this nice little felt bag that my SeaSonic PSU was in out of the box... Well, I finally found a use for it!!! :grin:










Cut the material from the SeaSonic bag down to the proper size.










Cut the old cloth off of the armrest... What do you know, it's glued to the foam as well. Was a bit of a pain to separate the glue from the foam without ripping it... Had to repair a small piece that was tore off.










The old cloth is off and I am ready to put the new material on.
Using my trusty hot glue gun and a plastic rule (not shown) I started gluing the cloth in the channel. I started with the narrow end. Applied Hot Glue to the straight section and used the plastic rule to press the material into the glue as it cooled. I then stretched the material to the opposite side and repeated. Then I moved on to the sides, which I split into 3 sections... Starting with the center on one side... applied the glue and used the rule to press it in... Stretched the cloth to the other side and glued it in. Then, finished up the two sections on either side, carefully stretching and gluing. The reason I split the sides up into smaller sections was to make sure the glue didn't cool before I could apply the material. Finally, on to the corners... One at a time, applied a generous helping of hot glue and used the plastic rule to press the edges in....











Here she is all glued up and trimmed.



















Installed in the car and looking much better!!! Thank you, SeaSonic for shipping your PSUs in (otherwise) useless bags! :grin:


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## GZ

reventon said:


> Wow! Seriously great detective work there GZ (and a nice car too).


Thanks Rev! Still have a long way's to go yet and I have some ideas to get the interior into tip-top shape again!!!!


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## Wrench97

Where's the label? You were suppose to center the Seasonic label on it:laugh:


But serously nice workray:


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## joeten

So you ordered a hdd just to get the bag lol


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## Ooudestomp

Oooh, an Audi! I was looking at something like this for a car for me, but arent the 2.8l's kinda rare? I will be looking at the 1.9l Diesel though, dam insurance... :laugh: I see you got a manual version as well, (Stick-Shift for you US types :grin much better than the auto versions.
I hafta say, I like VW's and Audi's. Have a quality that others cars don't seem to have - even the older ones. Something like even an A3 (my least favourite, after the A2 - Yuk ) or a Golf would run ring around many of the cars in its class. 
Good job on the climate control and the armrest cover, the Seasonic label would have been cool :grin:


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## Amd_Man

I now know what I can do with my Corsair power supply bags:4-dontkno.........good work there.


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## jaythorpe522

wrench97 said:


> Where's the label? You were suppose to center the Seasonic label on it


That's *exactly* what I was thinking!

Good industrious, environmentally friendly solution tho!


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## GZ

To be honest, I was thinking about it... even just to have people ask me "What's SeaSonic?" :grin: Maybe I will recover it and use one of the Corsair bags!

Fixing the clear-coat today was an epic fail... Despite my best efforts the paint reacted with the new clear coat and started bubbling... Now I have to sand it down and put another couple of coats on.... Sorry no pics... Forgot my camera.


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## Scottg1

Looks like you have a good car there and with the work you are doing you will have a very very nice car. The A-4 is a great driving car. Good work


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## grimx133

Amd_Man said:


> I now know what I can do with my Corsair power supply bags:4-dontkno.........good work there.


Don't forget the Crown Royal bags too eh!


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## GZ

My internet has been acting up for the past few days. This is the first time I have been able to get on line without issue in 3 days.

I have been working on my driver side door panel for about as long! 

I replaced the stained loose cloth armrest with 3M Di-Noc carbon fiber film... Made a few mistakes, but not too bad for my first time working with the material.

One thing I do need is an easier way to remove that darned headliner glue that is used to hold the cloth. For some reason the glue will let loose when it wants to but is a PITA to remove when you want to! I tried, Goof Off, Alcohol, Naptha, Acetone, Vinegar, Goo-Gone and plain-old soap and water. I ended up having to remove the glue manually using steel chisels and razor blades. Took me about 6 or 7 hours to do. 

I also gave the handle a fresh coat of green enamel.

The biggest issue I have right now is that there is a small gap around the armrest. I spent a good portion of today looking for some vinyl push-in molding to finish it up. I have no idea where to find it!


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## GZ

One more pic... Reinstalled the door panel.

one thing that would have made things a whole lot easier would have been if I could have removed the panel that was upholstered. Unfortunately it was plastic-welded in place making it near impossible for me to remove it and reinstall it. I had to be very careful not to damage the door panel itself. That is the main reason it took so long.


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## reventon

Now you just have to do the other 3 doors to match!


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## GZ

Took a while but I finally found something to trim up the armrest!!!!

R & E Paint Supply. COW 39-651, 3/8", Tape on, Door Edge Guard, with Bead, Black, Molding

It is sold at AutoZone in pre-cut 27" lengths but I can get it in a 50' roll...

Here is a blurry pic taken with my cell phone. Looks much nicer trimmed out IMHO!


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## Wrench97

I don't know about the blurry part but there a fat head blocking the light:laugh:


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## GZ

wrench97 said:


> I don't know about the blurry part but there a fat head blocking the light:laugh:


That would be mine... :laugh:


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## Wrench97

Looks good, do you have to do all of the switch covers or just the one?


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## GZ

I have them all. I am doing one door at a time. It is a bit of a pain to clean that glue off the armrest area. Painting the door handles is the easy part!

If anyone has any ideas, or miracle products, that will take that dang glue off without destroying the plastic underneath... please share. Pretty please!


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## S-steve07

You really have a nice car man..I also love to have that one someday..because i still don't have a car right now..all i can say that is COOL..


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## wolfen1086

Not bad looking...................for a car that is


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## GZ

wolfen1086 said:


> Not bad looking...................for a car that is


You can appreciate the off-road prowess of Quattro AWD, I'm sure! :grin:


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## wolfen1086

I appreciate the off road capabilities of ANY 4X4


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## joeten

The idea is supposed to be keeping them on the road lol


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## GZ

Recently I picked up a 1999 A4 Quattro (30V) parts car. Spent the last weekend tearing it apart and doing an interior swap. Goodbye grimy beige leather, hello supple black leather! 

The hardest part was getting the first dashboard out. The second dashboard took me a whole 45 minutes to pull! It was a lot of work, but well worth it IMHO. The satisfaction factor is high to. Unfortunately my bud Keith was sick and couldn't help me out, except for a few odds-and-ends and a couple of welds.

Mounting the passenger seat was a bit of a pain... the steel had the pressings and openings for the power-seat mounts but the bolt plates were not installed. Spent a bit of time grinding the rosettes on the donor car and cutting the support out to extract them. Installing them was a bit of a pain as well. Since there was no access to the underside I had to cut windows in the support to slide the bolt plates in then have them welded shut.

The driver's seat wasn't much fun either. Although it was power and the mounting points were installed, the steel around the pressings was torn and fatigued. Had to reinforce it and weld it up. And to think that I thought the movement in the seat was due to play in the mechanism... 

I will be posting a few photos at a later date, unfortunately I did not take many. I was concentrating on the task at hand and not the documentation.

I have a few minor electrical modifications to make in order to use the updated climate control unit and hazard/fog-light switches. 

I need an electrical diagram of the Climate control unit from both the '96 and the '99. The defrost/defogger is integrated into the later CCU whereas the '96 has a separate switch. It would definitely help with integrating the late model center console. 

All that is left of the interior, beside the center console, is the headliner, A & C pillar trim and the front door panels. The carpet, dash, seats, Bose premium speakers, parcel tray, etc are already installed. 

I am still debating on rebuilding the 30V and doing a conversion later. I need to do some research into what I absolutely need to save in order to do it. The rest of the drive train is in good shape and will be pulled, inspected and saved for a rainy day.

I will get some pics up as soon as I can.


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## jaythorpe522

gavinzach said:


> Recently I picked up a 1999 A4 Quattro (30V) parts car. Spent the last weekend tearing it apart and doing an interior swap. Goodbye grimy beige leather, hello supple black leather!


Where's Ricardo Montalban when you need him?


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## wolfen1086

He's back on fantasy Island driving a old Jeep with a short side kick that warns when civilization is about to land


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## Midnight Tech

gavinzach said:


> Recently I picked up a 1999 A4 Quattro (30V) parts car. Spent the last weekend tearing it apart and doing an interior swap. Goodbye grimy beige leather, hello supple black leather!
> 
> The hardest part was getting the first dashboard out. The second dashboard took me a whole 45 minutes to pull! It was a lot of work, but well worth it IMHO. The satisfaction factor is high to. Unfortunately my bud Keith was sick and couldn't help me out, except for a few odds-and-ends and a couple of welds.
> 
> Mounting the passenger seat was a bit of a pain... the steel had the pressings and openings for the power-seat mounts but the bolt plates were not installed. Spent a bit of time grinding the rosettes on the donor car and cutting the support out to extract them. Installing them was a bit of a pain as well. Since there was no access to the underside I had to cut windows in the support to slide the bolt plates in then have them welded shut.
> 
> The driver's seat wasn't much fun either. Although it was power and the mounting points were installed, the steel around the pressings was torn and fatigued. Had to reinforce it and weld it up. And to think that I thought the movement in the seat was due to play in the mechanism...
> 
> I will be posting a few photos at a later date, unfortunately I did not take many. I was concentrating on the task at hand and not the documentation.
> 
> I have a few minor electrical modifications to make in order to use the updated climate control unit and hazard/fog-light switches.
> 
> I need an electrical diagram of the Climate control unit from both the '96 and the '99. The defrost/defogger is integrated into the later CCU whereas the '96 has a separate switch. It would definitely help with integrating the late model center console.
> 
> All that is left of the interior, beside the center console, is the headliner, A & C pillar trim and the front door panels. The carpet, dash, seats, Bose premium speakers, parcel tray, etc are already installed.
> 
> I am still debating on rebuilding the 30V and doing a conversion later. I need to do some research into what I absolutely need to save in order to do it. The rest of the drive train is in good shape and will be pulled, inspected and saved for a rainy day.
> 
> I will get some pics up as soon as I can.


Let me see what I can dig up Monday at work on those diagrams...


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## joeten

This might help Download PDF Audi A4 Service Manual 1996 2001 >> Free-pdf-ebook.com
Audi a4 Service Manual Repair Manual 1995 2001
94 I'am having trouble locating so far only a russian copy


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## GZ

Midnight Tech said:


> Let me see what I can dig up Monday at work on those diagrams...


I would forever be in your debt! ray: The haynes manual is so ambiguous and I don't feel like paying for an Alldata DIY for this car. The Haynes manual covers every A4 from 1996 to 2001 and Passats from 98 to 2005... There were so many changes and differences between these years and models other than the chassis and the basic drivetrain! 

Having a good electrical diagram will shave hours off of my time!



joeten said:


> This might help Download PDF Audi A4 Service Manual 1996 2001 >> Free-pdf-ebook.com
> Audi a4 Service Manual Repair Manual 1995 2001
> 94 I'am having trouble locating so far only a russian copy


Thanks for trying Joe! I have had no luck online or with Audi forums... If anyone can find it online it is you, that I am sure of!!!

Sorry no pics yet... I haven't had the time or energy to take the "after" pics and (for some reason) all of the "before" pics and some of the "during" pics show on my camera as "No image information"...

Murphy be damned! lol.


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## joeten

Another possible manualbooks
Pdf – Four-Door AudiA4 Quattro 2.0T Sedan | Free Auto Manual Ebook - Repair Manual - Car Owners Manual - Service Manual - Installation Guide - Part - eBook
you might find some info here VAGLinks.com - Links to VW & Audi Stuff (V-A-Guh-Links ;-)
Audi A4 B5 Wiring Diagram | Service Manual guide
Audi А4, User manual and to repair - engine Service life//Audi A4 since 1994 / Audi-A4-b5
Free Download Service Repair Manual Audi A4 | Car Service Manuals
Free Car Service Manuals: Audi


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## GZ

Some pictures... Nothing spectacular and, unfortunately, not complete. But hopefully it will help illustrate some of my hard work!

Let's start with the parts car... a 1999 A4 Quattro



Here are a few progress shots.

This is one problem I had when installing the interior. The driver side seat mounts were torn around the pressings. The metal seems to be a bit on the thin side and the welder kept blowing holes through it.

And lastly... Halfway through the tail-light swap I decided to take a picture... one tail light is from the '99 the other from the '96... I much prefer the '99s. IMHO the lines are cleaner and work better with the lines of the body and the lack of amber turn signals is appealing.









I didn't take any photos of the interior before I began tearing it out, but you can see bits and pieces of the beige leather (which was all grimy and worn)... The nicest thing now is that I have saved myself a ton of work redoing the door panels and other beige trim.

Oh, BTW, the SeaSonic center armrest is now gone in favor of the black leather one from the '99. It worked well, but unfortunately the material did not stand up to regular use and was becoming thread bare.

I will get some more photos when I have a nice sunny day to take them.


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## joeten

Still no luck with the 94 manual


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## GZ

No problem joe, MT got me some wiring schematics which I still have to go through. I appreciate your looking!


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## joeten

Anytime Bruce it just irks me not to find it but that is how it goes sometimes alas


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## GZ

I didn't think it was gonna be easy! I spent quite a bit of time searching for myself before mentioning it here!

Hopefully the schematics I now have will hold the information I am looking for! I really don't feel like manually tracing each wire!


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## joeten

Found this place Vehicle wiring diagrams
it may provide something you can use either now or in the future


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## GZ

A few updated photos of the interior. 



The center console is the original (96), I included the photo for comparison at a later date.


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## GZ

Today did not go as planned... I was hoping to get a good portion of the front-end of the 99 torn down and ready to sort... (gotta get the late one-piece projector lights into my car!) but I got hung up on the passenger side door panel... There was a crack running down the edge of the door that I figured I would repair with some fiberglass matte and epoxy... Unfortunately, whomever had removed that door panel previously had completely destroyed it... It looks like they tried removing the door panel without removing any of the fasteners. You don't know how irritating it is to me when someone tries to do something without taking the time to do it properly, or at least attempt to figure it out... It really isn't that hard!!!!!

Ended up spending most of the day trying to carefully remove the armrest from the original door panel and the one from the '99.

I was able to save most of the plastic mounting tabs on the bottom side of the armrest and was able to securely attach the lower portion to the door panel and re-melt the plastic together but the top side was a different story. 

Most of the tabs were melted too close and there wasn't enough beef to melt the pieces back together securely so I decided to utilize plastic epoxy. It was a bit of a pain in the rump finding a way to clamp the top down securely to the door panel for the epoxy to set... ended up using a piece of plywood, some wood screws and fender washers to securely clamp the two pieces together with some wax paper to keep the epoxy from adhering to the plywood... Won't know until tomorrow whether it worked or not.


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## GZ

Well, the epoxy doesn't look too spectacular, but it seems to be holding well which is all that matters!

My buddy was helping me when I put the clamp in place and put the one piece of wax paper on backwards... DOH!!! So I have some wax paper stuck in the epoxy... Once again, it is the backside of the panel so no big deal.

There was a small issue with the armrest panel gap at the top, near the front of the armrest... I closed the gap and added a little extra strenght by using 8 screws. 

Now I am just waiting for the door handle to dry. Instead of trying to use the handle that was all busted up, I decided to paint the beige handle flat black to match the other door panels. I am going to give it another hour or so while I take care of a few small tasks then I will install it... hopefully it is dry enough!


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## wolfen1086

Today may not have gone as you planned, but the car is going good, its gonna look like a winner when your done man good job so far.


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## GZ

Thanks Wolfen!!!!

I finished up the door panel and reinstalled it... So far looking good!!! Couldn't clean it yet, I need to wait a few days to be sure the paint is cured on the door handle.

While I was at it, I removed the front grille chrome, profiled it and blacked it out using the same black epoxy paint. Much better IMHO.


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## wolfen1086

Your welcome. Brother when its done I want pictures inside and out


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## Amd_Man

That's quite the project gavinzach! You're doing a great job and must have a million times the patience that I do. You're right, the grill looks much better blacked out. Gives it a "stealthy" appearance


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## GZ

wolfen1086 said:


> Your welcome. Brother when its done I want pictures inside and out


It's gonna be a while. Lol!!! Still got a ton of work to do!!!



Amd_Man said:


> That's quite the project gavinzach! You're doing a great job and must have a million times the patience that I do. You're right, the grill looks much better blacked out. Gives it a "stealthy" appearance


I don't know about a million times... My buddy yelled at me today because I got a run in the paint on the door handle!!! He told me I have to be patient!!! :lol:

Let me tell you, painting is not my strong suit... I do well with small bits, but give me a large panel, it ends up streaky and runny!!! I think I need one of those professional spray guns!

Pretty soon I am going to be putting on the late model one-piece headlights with projector high-beams... I am planning on splitting the light and blacking out all unneccessary reflective surfaces... The only thing that needs to be reflective is the low-beam reflector!

I want to tint the headlights slightly as well, but I don't think it is legal in any state...


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## reventon

HSV in Australia like tinting their tailights, I think it looks good on dark coloured cars.


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## GZ

Hey Rev! Long time no see my friend, how are you? I heard school has been a bit hectic lately!

Yes, I have seen and do like darkened taillights, but there are relatively strict laws in my state about what can be tinted and how dark that tint can be. I was once pulled over an forced to remove a translucent decal I had over my brake light in lieu of a traffic fine. The decal, in no way, obstructed the brake light... But the law, no matter how inane, is the law. And I can not afford constant fines by overzealous officials!!!! :grin:


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## GZ

In the state of NJ The windshield and the front driver/passenger door window cannot be tinted. All rear windows can be tinted to any darkness.





NJ Lamp Laws said:


> 39:3-50. All lamps and reflectors, which display a light visible from directly in front of a vehicle as authorized by this subtitle, shall exhibit lights substantially white, yellow or amber in color.
> 
> (a)The color of light emitted or reflected by exterior lamps or reflectors on a vehicle shall be as follows, except as otherwise provided in paragraphs (b), (c) and (d) of this section:
> 
> White when the lamp is a headlamp, or spot lamp, or illuminates a license plate or a destination sign; or is located on the outside limit of a side car or other attachment on a motor cycle;
> 
> Substantially white or amber when the lamp is a side-cowl or fender lamp, running-board or other courtesy lamp, front parking lamp, back-up lamp, auxiliary driving lamp; or a turn signal on or facing the front;
> 
> Substantially red or amber when the lamp is a turn signal or a stop lamp on or facing the rear;
> 
> Red when any other lamp or any reflector is on the rear or on either side at or near the rear, except as otherwise provided in paragraph (f) of section 39:3-61 for a combination marker lamp;
> 
> Amber when any other lamp or reflector is on the front or on either side other than at or near the rear.
> 
> (b)Lamps and reflectors on projecting loads shall emit or reflect light with color as provided in section 10 of this act.
> 
> (c)No person shall drive or move any vehicle or equipment upon any street or highway equipped with any device or lamp thereon capable of or displaying a light of any other color than permitted by this section, except: an authorized emergency vehicle, an authorized school bus, or a vehicle authorized by a permit issued by the chief administrator.


My sister state, PA can have 70% tint on all windows except the windshield but it is still illegal to tint any driving lamps.


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## wolfen1086

Here in Va the headlights, taillights, windshield, and front door windows can NOT be tinted or covered in any way, along with the license plate, of course half of it isn't enforced because the cops are scared to death to look inside a car with tint.


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## Midnight Tech

Gonna put the rings back in the grille?


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## GZ

They are back in the grille!.. :grin:


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## Midnight Tech

It'd look nekkid without em!


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## GZ

Midnight Tech said:


> It'd look nekkid without em!


True dat!!! The slightly darker, flat, black epoxy paint looks good against the weathered plastic grille... It is hard to see in photographs.

I just got Thursday off of work, it is supposed to be beautiful!!! Hopefully I can get the front end of the car torn apart and install the late model radiator support and headlights! 

But, things rarely go as planned, eh? :grin:


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## GZ

Spent too much time trying to split the lens and housing on the one piece headlights... I was lucky to have been able to get them in!









Before shot.








Fully disassembled front end. The biggest P.I.A. was the upper radiator hose. Figured since I had it this far, might as well perform some maintenance checks...








Had to cut the lip off both fenders. It's only function is to support the side marker light in the two piece headlight assembly.








Viola... like magic... poof gone.








Radiator support in and test fit the headlight assembly... Between this pic and the next was about 45 minutes of re-wiring... Ended up using the connector from the original HL assembly and creating an adapter, leaving the fog-light lead loose to run down when I get the new fog lights mounted up in the bumper later on.








All re-wired, hooked up and tested. Bleeding the coolant system is a breeze in these cars... Top it off, start it and let it run until it heats up then shut it off... gravity and convection take care of the rest... Top it off later and you are good to go (for the most part)








Finally, all buttoned up and tools picked up/put away... I had one heck of a time taking this pic, it was too dark so I had to futz with the settings a bit... Sorry so blurry and washed out. Will get a better pic tomorrow in the sun.

100% improvement IMHO.


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## wolfen1086

Yes reassemble


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## GZ

:lol:

I guess it is funny that it required a complete disassembling and reassembly of the front end of the car to change the headlights. I didn't even think about it until a buddy mentioned it to me when I was showing him the pics. Adam: "What were you doing to your car?" Me:"changing the headlights". He busted out laughing...

I took the time to change the windshield washer reservoir and check the timing belt while I had the car apart. The only thing that necessitated the extent of work I had to do was the slight difference in headlight mount points. The 99 radiator support/front clip has mounting points for both the one piece and two piece assemblies, the 96 only had the mounting points for the two-piece...

The best news out of the entire day was that my fix on the oil pressure switch is holding strong. Not a drop of fresh oil anywhere to be seen in that vicinity. 

I will try to remember to take a better shot of the new look tomorrow when it is light out.


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## GZ

It's been a little while, so here is an update...

What I have accomplished with this car (and the part car) since February...

My Car;


Finished a bit of rewiring that needed to be done.
Repaired a hole in the AC low pressure line.
Realized the AC has a leak, likely from an O-Ring and it doesn't work again (and it is HOT)
Finished the interior, for the most part... 
Headliner was a PITA, and I ended up stressing some areas and causing sagging and wasn't paying attention and got some nasty black stains in it now... But it is still better than the beat up tan felt that was in there.
Replaced the entire sunroof mechanism.
Spliced the new headliner harness into the existing harness without a reference or guide... I couldn't find proper wiring diagrams anywhere... I ended up having 4 wires just capped off because they were unnecessary... Just another example of how modern car wiring is over complicated... Everything works perfectly, except the driver side vanity light... Which I purposefully left disconnected.
Gave the engine a once-over and replaced the #1 cylendar wire and all 6 plugs.

Parts Car


Finished stripping the dang thing down and sold it for $200 a 40 pack of cut-off discs and a promise of a free spray of some body panels so long as I brought my own material... Not a bad deal if I say so...

So I payed $700 for the parts car... Sold the husk and unneeded parts for $200, sold the factory BOSE amplifier and CD changer for $125, still have a good ABS pump and computer to sell... That means, as of right now, I payed $375 for...

Full interior replacement (carpet, power leather seats, dashboard, center console, headliner and trim), 2x full size spare wheels (the other 3 were trashed) 4 relatively new shocks/struts, 2x good catalytic converters, updated sunroof assembly, a full A/C system, spare starter and a bunch of misc bits... I don't think I did too badly!!!

There were still a lot of good parts on the parts car, but it wasn't worth the time and effort to strip them. I got it out of my buddies place just in time for his party this weekend!

I also aquired a few goodies for myself! Namely a 50gal single stage compressor, a Snap-On IM3100 impact gun, a couple air wratchets and stuff. 

Sorry no pictures... I was concentrating on getting things done and didn't think to whip out the camera. Maybe next time!


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## sirtokesalot

wait did you really have to take the whole front end off just to change the headlights?


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## GZ

sirtokesalot said:


> wait did you really have to take the whole front end off just to change the headlights?


Yes... I did.. The headlight mounts on the radiator support are slightly different for each style of headlights. So I had to replace the radiator support. 



As for an update... The headliner I put in is falling apart... The glue didn't appreciate being tweaked to get it in through the door opening... Right now I have a bunch of plastic headliner retainers holding it from flapping around... My father broke the passenger sun-visors retainer... :doh: 

Right now where the car is concerned it is time to focus on repairs...

I had the car up on the lift yesterday to fix my emergency brake and locate a small coolant leak... The e-brake issue was a simple fix... Just had to remove the actuating levers and clean the crud from behind the seal, then grease it up. 

The coolant leak wasn't so simple... But I found it... It is leaking from the water pump... That is a job for another day... in the very near future.

While I had it up I decided to take a quick look at everything... Made a nice little list of things-to-do in the very near future...

Outer Tie-rod ends (replaced... They both had 3/4" play)
Control-arm boots (no play, but the boots are all cracked)
Outer CV, passenger front
Rear brakes/rotors

And, of course, the water pump... But since I am going to be in there, might as well take care of the timing belt and tensioner...


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## Ooudestomp

Just been reading through this thread, and I seems you have gotten quite far with you project It is a nice looking car you have, the B5 being my favourite A4 platform.
Just wondering, did you get the wiring diagrams? I can get any that you want if you need them.


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## GZ

Ooudestomp said:


> Just been reading through this thread, and I seems you have gotten quite far with you project It is a nice looking car you have, the B5 being my favourite A4 platform.
> Just wondering, did you get the wiring diagrams? I can get any that you want if you need them.


Please... If you would... My main shot at getting all the diagrams I need is still in limbo (Shop Key through a Shop Owner I do some computer work for)... But he is having issues with it, that I have not been able to resolve as of yet.

I was planning on paying for a Alldata DIY for my car just for the diagrams, but I don't feel like doing the same for the '99...

Thanks... It seems like everything I take on is a project... I actually prefer the 90 (B4 platform) but they are hard to find around here in good shape... It was actually less expensive to buy the B5...


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## Ooudestomp

Yeah, just tell me the ones you want, and I can send them to you somehow. I work in a specialist vw/audi garage see, so we have all the technical data/books and expertise
Speaking of the b4 90 platform, my boss just got given one from a friend which has done about 80000miles, and is in perfect original condition. Everything about it is original - even the Blaupunkt radio hehe. The rare thing about it though, is it is the very base model, no power steering, central locking or anything.


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## GZ

Nice...

Actually, right now I could use the specs on the Timing belt and water pump...

Torque specs for the pump housing (in lb/ft if possible) and tolerances on the timing belt/tensioner/idler.... Just ordered a kit and will be doing that job as soon as it comes in.


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## Wrench97

See if you can read these.


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## GZ

Thanks! But the same problem I was having with SK5... I can open the SVG files that contain the diagrams, but they don't scale properly, leaving the terminal numbers and such unreadable... :banghead:


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## Wrench97

Yea that's the issue I can zoom them on the site but can't D/L the image.


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## GZ

Yeah... It's all good... The diagrams you gave me should help me out quite a bit...

I am going to get over to John's Automotive and put SK5 on his Verus for him... Hopefully that will take care of his ability to access diagrams... Just have to install it and share his SK directories on his main PC... Should get around the issue then...

BTW... I saw his Verus... What an expensive P.O.S... I am in the wrong business... All I need to do is buy some Windows tablets for a few hundred a piece and install engine management softwar and purchase and OBDII interface... Total cost between $700 and $1500 and it would run circles around that $10000 piece of junk...


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## Wrench97

You want the ones for the 99?


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## GZ

Yeah... My ultimate goal is to replace the CCU from the 96 from the one from the 99... The one from the 99 has the hazards and some other buttons built into it, where they are separate on the 96.


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## Wrench97

For the 99


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## GZ

Thanks!

Do you know anything about ContiTech?

I purchased a ContiTech water pump/timing belt kit... for my car... I usually go OEM with items like that, but tight money (from recent tool purchases) has me looking budget...

CRP PP218LK1-MI Engine Timing Belt Kit w/ Water Pump | eBay

I went with the metal impeller, of course... I jsut want to make sure this isn't going to blow up in the next 40,000mi...


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## Wrench97

I've not heard of them, but there are so many around now rebranding or packaging kits it's hard to know.


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## GZ

Well, hopefully the parts are near OEM quality... I hate having to redo work because of bad parts... But for the price I paid, compared to O.E.M... What can you do?


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## Ooudestomp

I got the tightening Torques, but they are in Nm (Euro program hehe), but I suppose you can convert them. I assume that the one you want is for is single cam, based on how you differentiated your donor car as the 30v :grin: These are for the engine code AAH. What did you mean by the "tolerances"? Do you mean tension?


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## GZ

Yes, my motor is AAH. (12V single cam). I would have preferred lb/ft because my tools measure in lb/ft, but I can convert from NM.

Yes, belt tension and torques for the idler, tensioner and cam bolts. (going to replace all the seals while I am in there).

Thanks!


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## Ooudestomp

Thats alright, if you need anything else, just say. Yeah, what do you use to measure the tension of the belt(s)? I use one of these:
FACOM Timing - Cam Belt Tensioning gauge Save over £100 off List Price | eBay
It doesn't have a tension unit as such, its just based off how thick the belt is, and how far apart the teeth are. 
On the water pump seals, put a good ring of RTV silicone on the seal before fitting it. Those A4 water pumps are notorious for leaking.


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## GZ

GA424A, Gauge, Belt Tension



Ooudestomp said:


> On the water pump seals, put a good ring of RTV silicone on the seal before fitting it. Those A4 water pumps are notorious for leaking.


Don't worry Ooudie... This isn't my first time around the block... I have been turning wrenches far longer than I have been working on PCs... :grin: (I am a long-time VW enthusiast)

I prefer a good seal and copper-coat... Doesn't make the mess of RTV... If I don't like the seal quality of the kit I purchased, I will head over to the Audi dealer and pick up an OEM gasket.


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## Ooudestomp

Hehe, thats alright then I don't usually saying stuff like that, cause some people don't like to hear it from people who are younger than themselves. Might be something to do with 'Pride' or whatever :grin: 
We always put the RTV on them, 'cause we have had loads of them leak in the past - better safe than sorry heh. 
Its good to see a fellow VW enthusiast, lots of people seem to think they are boring cars, but I think they are fun to work on from my experience. So far My MK4 Golf is taking up all my time - and my money


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## GZ

Here is the full list of VW's that I have owned since 1996...

1972 VW Super Beetle (Canary Yellow, auto-stick)
1971 VW Super Beetle (Red, auto-stick... Swapped it out for a 4 speed later0
1956 VW "Oval" (primer grey, sold it when my son was concieved)
1988 VW Jetta GL
1989 VW Golf GL (The only mexican VW I have ever owned)
1987 VW Jetta GLI
1992 VW Jetta "Wolfsburg Edition"
1996 VW Jetta "Celebration Edition"
1995 Audi 90 Quattro Sport
1996 Audi A4 Quattro (current)

All of the above were "Stick" with the exception of the auto-stick.

I am working on getting back into an Air-Cooled Vee-Dub, but it is tough, since I don't have a garage or property large enough... (on street parking only)

EDIT:

Yes, I prefer the MKII wassergekühlt autos.


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## Ooudestomp

You've had a few Jettas then? And by "stick" do you mean Manual? :grin: Are you planning on getting a camper or a bug?


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## GZ

Ooudestomp said:


> You've had a few Jettas then? And by "stick" do you mean Manual? :grin: Are you planning on getting a camper or a bug?


What I really want is a late '60s Type 3... Preferrably a Notch-Back...










I also want another mid to late '50s Type 1.


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## Ooudestomp

Ahh, the 1500s. The Karmann Ghia and the like, Yeesh, that would require an extensive search and some cash then? I don't think I have ever seen any 1500s for sale here.
I would take a MK1 Golf GTi personally, or an Audi RS2...


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## GZ

And yes... I have had a few Jetta's... To be honest, I prefer a "saloon" to a hatch. With the exception of the MK1&II GTI and the Scirrocco, I wouldn't want to own one.

And, yes... Stick, Manual, 4-speed, however you want to say it... None of them were full automatic gear-boxes!


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## GZ

Ooudestomp said:


> Ahh, the 1500s. The Karmann Ghia and the like, Yeesh, that would require an extensive search and some cash then? I don't think I have ever seen any 1500s for sale here.
> I would take a MK1 Golf GTi personally, or an Audi RS2...


I wouldn't want a Ghia... Too small... I remember a road trip I took in a '65 Ghia... 

They are rare, and even rarer in good shape... And quite pricey... My buddy had owned two square backs and a fast back... They were fun, but I always liked the look of the notchback...


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## Ooudestomp

Thats the thing about buying classics, they are hard to find in good nick. I was searching for ages to find a mk1 golf, and there are none in good condition, even for a decent price. That is sort of the reason I bought my MK4. 
My plan is, once I have a bit of cash, to buy and restore something like an R107 Mercedes or something similar. Within reason, you don't have to worry about condition when buying a car to restore.


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## GZ

Or you just do like I am, and buy a driver that you can work on as you go along!!!! :lol:

I am a firm believer that a car should be driven... I would be that guy out driving around my restoration project with parts missing and in primer... :lol:


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## Ooudestomp

What was wrong with the 30v that you bought?
If you are going to restore a car, it _has_ to be driven. That's if it works hehe


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## Ooudestomp

This is perhaps my favourite audi, alongide an RS2 in the same colour that is:








This one has been for sale on ebay for a while, I wish I had £15000 to buy it


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## GZ

What year is that? (psstt... The steering wheel is on the wrong side :tongue

My car cost me just under £2000... It would have been a good pick for a Top Gear challenge! :lol:


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## GZ

Ooudestomp said:


> What was wrong with the 30v that you bought?
> If you are going to restore a car, it _has_ to be driven. That's if it works hehe


Chassis damage... Blown motor (Oil pump blew and the owner drove it until it siezed). And all sorts of other maintenance related issues... It wouldn't have been worth restoring... Parted it out and scrapped it.


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## Ooudestomp

Its Y reg, so 2001/2002 I think. We had the similar S4 model in the garage, and I was lucky enough to get a ride in it That was so quick, probably the fastest car I have been in. There is just something about the way it goes, and the sound of the 2.7 _twin turbo_ V6. Acceleration is sublime, and it has so much grip, your face comes off when going around a corner hehe. That RS4 is even quicker than the S4...


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## GZ

I am pretty sure the 2.7 has the same cylender dimensions as the 2.8, just a shorter stroke and different heads...


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## Ooudestomp

It probably is about the same as your thinking about it, though I haven't actually worked on/seen a 2.8 like yours. How does yours sound?


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## GZ

Right now? One of the exhaust clamps is leaking and I have a hollowed out Catalytic converter... Sounds... Off... Hopefully I will get the cats done soon...


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## Ooudestomp

Does yours have the twin cats or just one? 
I kinda meant when it has a good exhaust, is it more of a smooth rumble?


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## GZ

Yes, mine has twin cats that merge into a single resonator/muffler setup at the rear.

It doesn't have much of a rumble... Without the leak it is actually very quiet... When you get on it, it makes a nice purr.


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## Ooudestomp

I was wondering about the cats, 'cause the 2.5 V6 TDIs have the one cat.
Yeah, I noticed on the s4 that it was very quiet and unassuming, Something I like about it. What is your next job with yours then? Did you get the interior finished?


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## GZ

No... I have to finish maintenance... A car that doesn't work isn't a car...

Next job is the timing belt / water pump and seals...

Then I have to climb underneath and inspect the drivetrain... I know I need a FR axle (I already have it, otherwise I would just inspect the CV Joint and replace if necessary).

Then I have to replace the RL wheel sensor and put the original hub back in, with a new bearing pressed in... 

I am planning on redoing the headliner next summer and perhaps doing the electrical modifications early next year.


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## GZ

Well... Water pump, timing belt and thermostat gasket were fixed yesterday... Just in the nick of time too... My timing belt was so loose that my crank had almost 5 degrees of play before actuating the camshafts... The water pump wasn't leaking as I first suspected... But it's bearing wasn't sounding happy... The Thermostat housing was the culprit... Couldn't get a thermostat or thermostat gasket on short notice, so I used high temp RTV around the outer flange to stop any coolant that works it's way past the rubber seal.

Now my Power steering pump bearing is humming like crazy... :banghead:

Today, I replaced an alternator in a 98 Saab 900... I would like to smack whomever designed that setup... It was a PITA to say the least...


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## Wrench97

> Now my Power steering pump bearing is humming like crazy...


Did you have to drain the pump or have it disconnected from the hoses to do the belt?

If so it may just be aerated yet.


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## GZ

NO... It is the bearing... The aluminium pulley was corroded onto the steel shaft... It took a puller and a fair amount of tapping with a mallet before it popped off. 

Used my stethoscope today to locate the noise... It is coming from the outer bearing housing on the Power Steering pump.

I didn't think it was the pump at first because actuation of the steering didn't affect the noise until I hit the end stops and the power steering system bogged the motor.

Hey, do you have any experience with Chevy rear ends? (I believe it is the modern incarnation of the 10 bolt rear)... My neighbor's Chevy Astro is making some odd clunking noise in the rear end when not under load... I think it may be a worn carrier, but I don't know if I need special tools to fix it or not.


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## Wrench97

Is it a limited slip unit?
It may just need a oil change and limited slip additive.

Should be a standard GM set up, mark the bearing caps for right and left. Pull the center pin to get the axles out and remove the caps to get the diff out.
Check the pinion bearings for play/wear.


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## GZ

I'm not certain if it's LSD or not... All I know at this point is that it clunks... Not when under load, only when coasting. 

Can I pull the axle-shaft out of the rear end without popping the cover off?

I am just debating whether or not I want to take this job, or leave it to the garage.

These rear ends are relatively simple units. I shouldn't have too much trouble figuring it out, but I have no real experience with them.


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## Wrench97

Me thinks like the rest of the GM RWD units you have to pull the back cover to remove the C clips to get the axles out.


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## GZ

Yep... I did a little research on it last night before bed... Also need a slide hammer and bearing puller, which I don't have... :banghead:


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## GZ

Never mind... It is a good thing I suggested to check it out before they drove it to the shop... Pulled the cover off and one lug was stripped, 3 were sheared off and one was barely holding the wheel on...

:SHOCKED:


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## Wrench97

You would thing the van would have been shaking at any speed.............


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## GZ

I drove it last night for about a mile and there was no shaking or shimmying except when coasting... I am glad I told them not to drive it to the shop until I had a chance to look at it... I couldn't have lived with myself if something happened to them driving it...

I am waiting for the owner to get back with the new lugs for me to install. 

I believe it is a matter of incompetent mechanics using impact wrenches with far too much torque and weakening the bolts... There is no reason for half the lugs to fail at the same time...


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## Wrench97

Usually it's from loose lugs, it allows the wheel to move back and forth snapping them off.
Make sure the tapered holes in the wheel look good, it's not uncommon to have to replace the wheel.


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## GZ

Everything else is good. New lugs are installed with new lug-nuts and the car is up and running again...

I am glad I bought that IR impact wrench... Wouldn't have been able to do it without.

It has already paid for itself...

Now it's time to go look at a Jeep Grand Cherokee for my father's buddy... :banghead:


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## SABL

GZ said:


> Now it's time to go look at a Jeep Grand Cherokee for my father's buddy... :banghead:


Want me to send the 2 most recent cars your way??

#1....no oil on dipstick.....oil puddle under car but filter is intact. 

My answer.....look for hole in block and call scrap yard. Sell car for scrap or see if engine is available. Forget where I live.....delivery via tow truck will not be accepted.

Car was confirmed to have rod through block. Diagnosis correct and car is not in my driveway......I win. 

#2.....5.0L Mustang with aftermarket turbo. Buyer was advised to stay away but purchased anyhow.....car lasted 1 1/2 weeks and now has water in the oil after radiator cap blew off. 

My answer.....find local mechanic to replace head gaskets. I am not making a 100 mile round trip to work on a car that was purchased without regard to sound advice by more than 1 person. This is not the "Elephant Graveyard" as depicted in the Tarzan movie....tow trucks will be waved off. 

Answer #2.....Learn to fix what you break. This looks like a good starting point.


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## GZ

#1 - Good diagnosis
#2 - Hmm... Putting a turbo on an unmodified (high compression) block sounds like a good idea... Let's forget about good bimetal head gaskets and top-end reinforcement...

I am going to let you in on the situation with this guy (Bear) and this Jeep...

About 2 months ago Bear's car broke down... Late 90's Ford Escort. One of the valve seats popped out and banged around the cylinder pretty much ruining the piston.

Before I fully knew what the issue was, My father was going to help him fix his car... Wanted me to pull a motor from the junkyard and put it in... I cautioned him against U-Pull motors and the fact they could cost more in the long run, and the time and energy I would expend to get the motor wouldn't be worth it... I told them to look for a reasonably priced motor with a guarantee. Apparently they couldn't find one cheap enough... 

Then my father offered to buy Bear a cheap "beater" for somewhere around $500 to get him around so he could get a job and such... The ungrateful "fatherless-child" complained that it wasn't enough and you couldn't get a decent car for less than $2000.

So, My father ends up buying this Jeep for around $750... Asks Bear to take the Escort so he can scrap it and recoup some of his money... Bear says "What am I going to do then, I need to scrap it so I have money"? :banghead:

Monday takes us to the junkyard where I pull various parts it needs (broken light lenses and such) so it can pass inspection. Get home and put this stuff on the truck for him. As of right now my father is out just over $1000 with the cost of the vehicle, title transfer taxes and such along with the parts he bought. Nothing but complaining from this guy... "The dome light doesn't come on when the door is opened, the bumper needs to be replaced, it smells like cigarette smoke, the console is broken"... I think you can see my point... 

Now, my father hasn't heard the end of it... I went over to where Bear was today because he was complaining the transmission was slipping and slamming and so on... Checked the fluid... It was slightly discolored and smelt burnt... I drove it about 10 miles to the Auto Zone and it didn't hiccup... Bought a trans filter and drove the 10 miles back through town... Not a hiccup. I could not duplicate the slamming or slipping no matter what I tried... 

I am going to take it up to my buddies tomorrow or Sunday and do a trans flush and filter and put fresh ATF-4... 

The only other thing I need to do is figure out why the Climate Control unit is not functioning at all...


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## Wrench97

Jeeps are known for blend door issues and they are a nightmare to fix..............most people sell the car instead of fixing...........


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## GZ

This one has no life on the Climate Control Unit... Nothing at all...


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## Wrench97

The blend doors work off of electric stepper motors when one goes out of range the control shuts down, Try disconnecting the battery and see if there is any signs of working when hooked back up.


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## Troy_Jollimore

@GZ: Sounds like 'Bear' needs a wrench to the side of his head to wake him up. People like that don't tend to stay friends with me long... Good luck with the Jeep, although I hear they can be bullet-proof if you get a good example of one. How do you like working on the VAG V6? I tend to keep with the 4 cylinders, as they're easier to work on...


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## GZ

I would never, ever, think about doing that to Wrench97!!!!!

There is no such thing as a "Bullet-Proof" Jeep... At least not since Chrysler took them over way back... :grin:

The 5.2L V8 is still strong, but the trans needs a Torque Converter, at the very least... Suspension is full of play, body is rotting out from under it, half the electronics don't work, or work properly... :banghead:

I really wish I was fully consulted before this purchase was made... 

Either way 'Bear' should have been more grateful for what my father was doing for him... 

Oh well, done Hijacking this thread (yes it is mine, but hey... It's dedicated to my Audi...:grin

The Audi... Gonna have to pull my spare trans in and start going over it... Want to have it ready to install by spring time...


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## Lilsisaudiowner

Does anyone know what the button next to to front drivers seat in between the front and back doors are? Here's what it looks like... What does it do ?


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## Masterchiefxx17

I'd assume your on an Audi?

If so and its like my car, that is the proximity sensors button.


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