# Learning/Building a New PC.



## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

I am wanting to build a new pc with gaming in mind.

My specs so far:

MotherBoard : * Not so sure.*

GPU : *Something In the ATI Range. ATI 7970 ?*

CPU : *Core i7-3930K *

Intel BX80619I73930K Core i7-3930K 6-Core Processor (3.2GHz (3.8GHz Turbo), Socket 2011, 12MB L3 Cache, Turbo Boost 2.0): Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

PowerSupply Unit (PSU) : *Corsair AX850 Professional Series 850W 80 plus gold*

*Corsair AX850 Professional Series 850W AX ATX/EPS 80 PLUS Gold PSU: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories*

Operating System : *Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit*

HardDrive (s) : *Samsung Blu ray player x12 read. *

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-SH-...1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1356549627&sr=1-1

*Intel 330 Series 180 Gb 2.5 inch SSD*

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-Serie...computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1356549747&sr=1-1-fkmr1

Soundcard : ?

RAM (Memory) : *Corsair CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9 8GB x 2* (overkill ?)

Corsair CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9 8GB 1600MHz CL9 DDR3 Vengeance Memory Two Module Kit: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

Case (Tower) : Not yet selected

The last month I have been watching/learning/reading into building computers. The main thing I don't get is, how do I know what motherboard do I need.

So far I know I will need a board in the x79 model range and 2011 socket like this one Asus P9X79 PRO Motherboard (Socket 2011, Intel X79, DDR3 Quad Channel, ATX, PCI Express 3.0, Dual Intelligent Processors 3 with New DIGI+ Power Control): Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories but what else do I need to know when selecting a Motherboard ?

Is 850w plus gold enough for my system ?

Would my blu ray player be able to read normal disks also. For example: A copy of windows 7 64 bit ?

This is just what I have in mind at the moment nothing is concrete yet.

Your help will be appreciated :smile: Thanks.


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## ross8839 (Dec 26, 2012)

Im quite new to this but 850 Watt looks more than good enough to run all of this!


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

There are a few things that need to change.

Look at our TSF builds here: http://www.techsupportforum.com/for...ams-recommended-new-builds-2012-a-668661.html

All of those use high quality parts for the builds.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Look over the suggested build list posted by Masterchiefxx17.
2x4GB of RAM is usually more than plenty.
850W PSU is basically overkill.


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## T_Rex (Oct 21, 2012)

For a higher wattage I7, and a very high end video card, not sure your mobo, but someone once said to me ... "you can never have enough power". The 850 is perfect for that build in my opinion, especially if you 'might' overclock or add another GPU for crossfire. true you can get away with a quality 650-750W just fine, but for a bit of future headroom the 850W looks great.


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## Burto87 (Aug 24, 2011)

If primarily for gaming then an i5 will be more than enough. OCing new processors isn't really necessary and will primarily see results only in benchmarking, so an i5 3550 should be more than enough. For motherboards stick with ASUS and Gigabyte for top quality. And choose a H77 chipset board if you don't select a K processor (i7 3770k/i5 3570k etc) and save a few dollars. 650w PSU is more than enough power and select either XFX or Seasonic for ensured quality. If you plan on running multi GPUs in X-fire/SLI then you may want a 750w PSU to comfortably run then but if not then 650 will be plenty. For your radeon choice of card go with Sapphire for quality. SSDs at the moment offer little more than faster boot times whilst still paying the premium price (approx $1 per GB)


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Is it true that you can not have too much power, it is also not suggested you spend money where it's not needed.
A good quality 650W PSU is more than sufficient for a 7970 GPU and one 7970 will meet/exceed any graphics demands. If better graphics are required later, just upgrade the GPU.
OC'ing newer CPU's is basically a wasted effort for anything other than benchmarks/bragging and it voids warranties.


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

Updated my list:


Motherboard : Asus SABERTOOTH Z77 Motherboard (Socket 1155, 32GB DDR3 Support, Intel Z77 Express, ATX, PCI-E 3.0, USB 3.0, Quad GPU AMD CrossfireX, Supports HDMI 1.4a): Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

CPU: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-Gener...ogy/dp/B007X1JM30/ref=pd_bxgy_computers_img_y

RAM: Corsair CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9 8GB 1600MHz CL9 DDR3 Vengeance Memory Two Module Kit: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

GPU : Sapphire 11197-01-40G HD7970 3GB GDDR5 OC Graphics Card: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

OS : WIndows 7 64bit ultimate

PSU : Not Sure.

HDD : http://www.amazon.co.uk/Western-Dig...Internal/dp/B0036Q7MV0/ref=pd_sim_computers_3

SSD : http://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-256...1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1356632502&sr=1-2

CPU Cooler :http://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Cooling-Freezer-Xtreme-Cooler/dp/B001X017G2/ref=pd_cp_computers_2

Tower : Not sure. It would need space for air flow. maybe a mid height one ?

Sorry for late replys I will keep coming back to this thread.

Please note I am new to this I am still learning and I appreciate the help. :smile:


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

Getting the i7 really isn't needed at all. Change it to a i5-3550. That will run any game today on max settings.

For the PSU stick with XFX or Seasonic. They are top quality and get a 650W.

No reason to get Windows 7 Ultimate unless you want the language pack. The only difference between Ultimate and Professional is the language pack.

You should only need to buy Windows 7 Home: Compare Windows 7 - Microsoft Windows

1TB HDDs can have problems but it is a Western Digital so you should be ok. For the best safety get a 500GB or 750GB.

SSDs are not a great value right now as they only offer a faster boot time. Wait for the OEM makers to put them in their machines which will bring the price down.

Are you going to be OCing? If not then the cooler is not needed. OCing new CPUs are not needed as it doesn't offer anything more then the standard clock speed and it will VOID your warrenty.

For the Tower stick with either NZXT, Corsair, or Cooler Master and a Mid Tower ATX tower is fine.


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

In videos on building, they all suggest an after market cooler because the one shipped with the chip isn't that good.

Is that true ?

I was hoping to install a blu ray player in my new pc also.

Would the i5 be ok for games coming out next year like :


Splinter Cell, Sniper ghost warrior 2 , GTA 5 ?


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

Yes the i5 will be fine.

The standard cooler will be fine if no OC is applied. If you really want then you can buy the 3rd party cooler. It will help for the temps, but its not needed.


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

i7s are better for graphic design and cad apps. An i5 will be great for your needs.

As said 850w is overkill. If you got for such a big wattage and never get anywhere near to using that then the efficiency goes down. 650w is plenty.

asus and gigabyte do the best motherboards. I always go asus.


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

Forgot to say most good motherboards have built in 7.1 surround sound so no need for a seperate sound card. The sound on my asus sabertooth z77 is great.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

MaccaDeez89 said:


> In videos on building, they all suggest an after market cooler because the one shipped with the chip isn't that good.


Possibly because those sites are selling parts?
The OEM heatsink/fan is more than sufficient for normal use.


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

What Tyree said is correct. I always buy an aftermarket cooler but only because I overclock not that there is really any need to overclock.

You shouldn't overclock with the normal cooler though.


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

Updated my list:


Motherboard : Asus SABERTOOTH Z77 Motherboard (Socket 1155, 32GB DDR3 Support, Intel Z77 Express, ATX, PCI-E 3.0, USB 3.0, Quad GPU AMD CrossfireX, Supports HDMI 1.4a): Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

CPU: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-Gener...1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1356732804&sr=1-1

RAM: Corsair CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9 8GB 1600MHz CL9 DDR3 Vengeance Memory Two Module Kit: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

GPU : Sapphire 11197-01-40G HD7970 3GB GDDR5 OC Graphics Card: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

OS : Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium, Full Version (PC DVD), 1 User: Amazon.co.uk: Software

PSU : http://www.amazon.co.uk/Seasonic-X-...1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1356734141&sr=1-2

HDD : Western Digital 2.5 inch Scorpio Black 750GB 7200rpm SATA 16MB Internal Hard Drive: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories x2 ?


Tower : Corsair Carbide Series 300R CC-9011014-WW Mid-Tower Gaming Case: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories 




Changed the processor to i5 3570k

The tower I have selected, is it big enough for all the stuff I want in there ? What I mean is, enough space for airflow and cooling ?

2 x 750 gb Western digital 7200rpm 16mb enough ? 

Any suggestions on a blu ray player ?


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

You never did say if you were going to OC or not.

If not then change the CPU to a i5-3550.

Do you really need the second 750 drive?

The case is fine.

On the Player I would stick with Asus.


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

Asus Blu-ray Writer Drive (S-ATA, BD-R: 12x, DVD±R: 16x, CD-R: 48x, Drag and Burn, QTS Technology): Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

Will I need a seperate dvd drive to load windows on ?

Im not oc so I changed the CPU to the i5 3550.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

No that drive will be able to run Windows 7.


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

Hi again.

I appreciate this help.

Ok, so this is now the list I have :

MotherBoard : Asus SABERTOOTH Z77 
Asus SABERTOOTH Z77 Motherboard (Socket 1155, 32GB DDR3 Support, Intel Z77 Express, ATX, PCI-E 3.0, USB 3.0, Quad GPU AMD CrossfireX, Supports HDMI 1.4a): Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

GPU : ATI Radeon HD7970 Sapphire 3gb
Sapphire 11197-01-40G HD7970 3GB GDDR5 OC Graphics Card: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

CPU : Intel 3rd Generation Core i5-3550 Socket 1155

Intel 3rd Generation Core i5-3570K CPU (4 x 3.40GHz, Ivy Bridge, Socket 1155, 6Mb L3 Cache, Intel Turbo Boost Technology 2.0): Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

PowerSupply Unit (PSU) : Seasonic X-650 Plus Gold
Seasonic X-660 660 Watt Power Supply Unit: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

Operating System : Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Microsoft-W..._1_2?s=software&ie=UTF8&qid=1356809158&sr=1-2

HardDrive (s) : Western Digital 2.5 inch Scorpio Black 750GB 7200rpm SATA 16MB 
Western Digital 2.5 inch Scorpio Black 750GB 7200rpm SATA 16MB Internal Hard Drive: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories


Optical Drive : Asus Blu-ray Writer Drive
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Asus-Blu-ra...=UTF8&qid=1356738286&sr=1-4&tag=10xxx10309-21

RAM (Memory) : 8gb (2x4)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CMZ...ce-Memory/dp/B004CRSM4I/ref=pd_cp_computers_0

Case (Tower) : Corsair Carbide Series 300R 
Corsair Carbide Series 300R CC-9011014-WW Mid-Tower Gaming Case: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories


Is 650w enough ? 

If I was to get an after market cooler what make would be good ?

I beleive there's nothing else to add is there ?


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

The Hdd you have listed is 2.5" (laptop size). You want a 3.5".
The 650W XFX is fine.
No need for an aftermarket cooler.


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

7200RPM WD 1tb SATA III: Customer Image Gallery for Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB SATAIII 6Gb/s 32MB Cache 3.5 Inch Internal Hard Drive - OEM

Done some research into SATA III, My mobo is SATA II, on google it said SATA III is backwards compatible. Will this HD be fine.

I Couldn't find any 750GB ones so 1tb will do. Reviews on this HS state they have no problems with it.


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

yes it will be ok.


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

Ok now've got all the components sorted. 

My house is all carpet. If I build it on a wooden table on top of a carpet would that be safe ?


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

yeah. To be safe anti static wristrap would be a good idea but on on wood your ok anyway.

Build everything on the bench to make sure everything works first. You can periodically touch the case or psu to make you the same polarity as the components which negates the need for a wriststrap. ESD damge is quite rare as it is though.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

The tower itself can be put on the floor but make sure to build the computer on the wood table.


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## TeaMan (Nov 10, 2012)

I have a question about the case. It seems it doesn't have fans in it. I would have at least two fans in there for cooling, one intake and one exhaust for the flow.


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

Corsair 300R Value Gaming Case Unboxing & First Look Linus Tech Tips - YouTube

Review of the case. One at back and one at front. you can have 2 on the side (120 mm) or one 140mm.

And 2 at the top.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

120 or 140mm in front and 120 or 140mm in the rear. Avoid side mount fans.


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

Is there a reason not to have a side fan ?

Would it not help keep the GPU cool ?


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## gcavan (Aug 13, 2009)

That is something which usually requires some experimentation. A side intake forcing air toward the graphics card is sometimes beneficial especially in multi-GPU systems. It may also disrupt the front to back air flow causing overall higher system temperatures.


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## T_Rex (Oct 21, 2012)

I agree with Tyree, in most cases a very good back and front fan along with a good CPU heat sink fan, and also the power supply having a good fan is more than enough and provides optimal straight-of-line intake/outtake airflow. A side fan can sometimes disrupt it (depending) and add to overall noise. As far as i'm concerned the less fans the better, especially of high quality and fairly silent. I have never been a 'fan' (pun intended) of side case fans :smile:


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## TeaMan (Nov 10, 2012)

Strapping your wires in place will also enhance the air flow.


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

air should come in the front and go out the back and/or top. If you add side fans too this can cause disruption.


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## T_Rex (Oct 21, 2012)

_CPU : Intel 3rd Generation Core i5-3550 Socket 1155

Intel 3rd Generation Core i5-3570K CPU (4 x 3.40GHz, Ivy Bridge, Socket 1155, 6Mb L3 Cache, Intel Turbo Boost Technology 2.0): Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories


----

_You have 2 different CPU's listed. One an I5 3550, one an I5 3570K. Go with the 3570K with the HD4000 APU. other than that it looks fine happy building!


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## VividProfessional (Apr 29, 2009)

i have pretty much the same system but i have added a Akasa M22 drive bay - allows for 4 x 2.5" hard disks quite good for the 2 x 500gb western digital disks i had scattered across my desk gives me extra expansion space easily on a hot swap basis, along with a 3.5" hotswap bay its very good for performing my back ups on! 
You will find better performance from the 3.5" disks (or a SSD) for windows partitions, be sure to use the end SATA plugs on the mainboard (two at each end) as these are in fact Sata III and run at 6gb, which i found to be so much quicker than the middle ones with my ssd

D


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

Those plugs are the grey/brown ones aren't they ?

Yes I am going with the 3570k i5 CPU.

As I'm not overclocking The fans I have will be the rear 120mm/ front 140mm.
The PSU Fan and the GPU's fans.


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## VividProfessional (Apr 29, 2009)

I can't remember the colours of the top of my yea but they are the ones either end the ones nearest the CPU are controlled by the intel controller the others by another version again off the top of my head I can remembers


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

MaccaDeez89 said:


> Those plugs are the grey/brown ones aren't they ?
> 
> Yes I am going with the 3570k i5 CPU.
> 
> ...


You wouldn't need anymore if you were overclocking.

I have a noctua dh14 cooler

the case front fan is 140mm the back one is 140mm and the top is 200mm

idle temps on each core are 21-24 degrees c and fully stressed 57-63.


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

tools:

I'm thinking ill be better with a magnetic tip screwdriver ?


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

Yes you can use one of those just dont rest it on any components like a hard drive.


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

I guess i'm ready to build then.

can we keep this thread opened so i can come back if I have any problems ?

thanks for all the help


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Following these suggestions below will help insure success. There are also many tutorials on YouTube about building.
If any problems arise, post back and we will assist you.
First, thoroughly read the Mobo manual to familiarize yourself with it's connections and layout.
Test on the bench prior to installing anything in the case precisely as follows.
Set the motherboard on a non conductive surface. The motherboard box is perfect for this. DO NOT PLACE THE MOTHERBOARD ON THE STATIC BAG! It can actually conduct electricity! 
Install the CPU and heat sink. 
Install 1 stick of RAM.
Install the video card and attach the power supply connection(s) to the card if your card needs it.
Connect the monitor to the video card.
Connect the power supply to the motherboard with both the 24pin main ATX Power connection and the separate 4 pin (Dual Core CPU) or 8 pin (Quad Core CPU) power connection.
Connect power to the power supply.
Do NOT connect ANYTHING else. Make sure you have the power connector on the CPU fan connected.
Use a small screwdriver to momentarily short the power switch connector on the motherboard. Consult your motherboard manual to find which two pins connect to your case's power switch. Then touch both pins with a screwdriver to complete the circuit and boot the system.

If all is well, it should power up and you should get a display. Then assemble the parts into the case and try again. If the system now fails to boot, you have a short in the case and need to recheck your motherboard standoffs.

If the system does not boot after this process, then you most likely have a faulty component. You'll need to swap parts, start with the power supply, until you determine what is defective.


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

Thanks.

Been watching loads of tutorials too. Will keep this in mind.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

This would also be a great place to start:

Newegg TV: How To Build a Computer - Part 2 - The Build - YouTube


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

Was on the ASUS website and seen an update for the z77 motherboard the one I'm getting :

ASUS - Motherboards- ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77

Is there any point in updating the BIOS ?


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## VividProfessional (Apr 29, 2009)

I never update the bios unless I need to


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

You should never update the BIOS as it could ruin the mobo.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Bios updates are rarely required/needed and should only be installed if the updates directly addresses the problem(s) you are experiencing.


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

Ok. Im just making some space at the moment to build this. im planning to build this within january at some time. 

Thanks for help guys.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

You're welcome and best of luck.


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

Hi all

Got my setup on top of the motherboard at the moment all is well.

I currently have the stock HS on and it's making a hell of a weird noise , i dont know if it's becasue it's sitting on the motherboard box.

Anyway Using one stick of RAM everytihng went fine, then I added the other stick turned it on , the HS fan went for a second and then stopped , the gpu was still going though. Turning it off and on again and it was back to normal. 

I got the motherboard logo on my screen when turning on so I assume it's a success ?

After the logo , I got the message to skip to startup, but it also mentioned it could not find map name.

As a noob at this I am confused.

Also it seems as if the CPU fan is getting faster and faster ?


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

Pressing escape to startup and nothing happens the word shell_ comes up :S


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

I should also not I didnt purchase the sabertooth i got the new MSi Big bang z77 board.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

What components are being used?
Brand & Model of Mobo-CPU-RAM-Graphics-PSU.


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

MSi Big bang z77
8gb vengeance low profile
Asus geforce 660ti
ax750 corsair


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

To be more clearer here is what im getting:

EFI Shell version 2..31[4.653]
Current running mode 1.1.2
map: cannot find required map name.

Press ESC in _ seconds to skip startup.nsh, any other key to continue.
Shell>


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

Maybe attaching a hard drive will stop this ?


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

Specs of the RAM?
Sorry to hear you went with the lower quality Mobo.
Is the heatsink securely attached to the Mobo? You should see all four pins locked in on the back side of the Mobo.
Check the temps in the Bios.
Attaching a Hdd "should" prevent the "cannot find required map name" error.


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

Well removing a stick of ram and booting gave me the message cpu or ram changed press f1 for for setup.

I got into setup cpu temps are 33 degrees and system temps are 25 degrees.

RAM is 2x4gb sticks of corsair low profile. The heatsink is attached correctly.


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## Vadigor (Apr 19, 2009)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

So currently your only issue is the "map name" error? According to the internet that's a message that pops up when no drives are attached. As there is nothing the mainboard can actually do to continue the boot process when no bootable media is connected, I'm not even sure that it's a bug. As Tyree said, connect your HDD and the message should be replaced by some sort of warning claiming a lack of bootable media. Connecting your optical drive should also work.

If you have a bootable image on a USB stick you could also try that. If it refuses to boot from that it may in fact indicate a bug that would be reason enough to return the mainboard. Of course it's unlikely that you'll ever be in a situation where you want to boot from something other than a SATA drive.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*



MaccaDeez89 said:


> Well removing a stick of ram and booting gave me the message cpu or ram changed press f1 for for setup.
> 
> I got into setup cpu temps are 33 degrees and system temps are 25 degrees.
> 
> RAM is 2x4gb sticks of corsair low profile. The heatsink is attached correctly.


That's normal and the temps are good.
Try connecting a Hdd and see if the error goes away.


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

Hello all.


Done the final build today , Got the system beside me running im currently monitoring the motherboard activity and BIOS. Some info on activity:

CPU temp: 30 - 31 
System temp: 29

I noticed , there is a load of LED's above the RAM area of the Motherboard. 2 have stayed on while the rest were flashing like mad. Any ideas what that is ? The led color is blue. *Edit* The flashing LED's have stopped now 2 have stayed on.

My debug LED has the code A6 but there is no reference in the manual to what this means. The color of the debug LED is green.


Everything else seems fine all my drives have been recognised. I also decided not to use the stock fan , I went with the corsair h80(replaced stock fans with 2 sp120's). My airflow is 2 front intakes , my h80 on intake and 2 top mounts exhaust. It's so quiet I can hardly hear the fans.

I still need to get the OS I plan on getting windows 7 Home premium OEM, I'm better off with OEM aren't I ?


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## Vadigor (Apr 19, 2009)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*



MaccaDeez89 said:


> I noticed , there is a load of LED's above the RAM area of the Motherboard. 2 have stayed on while the rest were flashing like mad. Any ideas what that is ? The led color is blue. *Edit* The flashing LED's have stopped now 2 have stayed on.
> My debug LED has the code A6 but there is no reference in the manual to what this means. The color of the debug LED is green.


It seems you figured out that they report system information and mainboard status. A6 apparently indicates that the motherboard is in "SCSI Detect" mode. It's not an error code. I'm guessing it'll go away when you actually boot into an OS. Either way it can be safely ignored. Your manual really should have explanations for all possible combinations.



MaccaDeez89 said:


> I still need to get the OS I plan on getting windows 7 Home premium OEM, I'm better off with OEM aren't I ?


The difference is that the OEM version is registered to the motherboard upon install. Moving the license to another computer is not possible without a call to Microsoft explaining why you need to move the key, and they are under no obligation to reactivate it. The retail version allows you to _reinstall _it on multiple computers but only one key can be active at any time. Thanks to Dreamspark I haven't had to buy an OS in years, but I'd suggest going with OEM. If you _have _to pay for it you might as well pay less.


Your system temperatures are fine. Once you have an OS and all drivers installed I recommend running Prime95 for several hours or even overnight while leaving RealTemp running.


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

I came to realise the blue LED only flashed while in system status in the BIOS. 

I noticed the clock speed on the RAM is set 1333Mhz while it can go right up to 1600Mhz, Im not sure how it's doing that, researching this problem indicated power saving or would I need to overclock my PC to get the full potential of the RAM ? 

Apart from that im ready to install the OS. I will also download all the drivers needed from this PC im currently using onto USB and transfer to the new PC. 

Looking at the price of windows 7 retail it's round about £131 on Amazon UK and the OEM is £71, and thats only HP!


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## Vadigor (Apr 19, 2009)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*



MaccaDeez89 said:


> I noticed the clock speed on the RAM is set 1333Mhz while it can go right up to 1600Mhz, Im not sure how it's doing that, researching this problem indicated power saving or would I need to overclock my PC to get the full potential of the RAM ?


You mean that the clock speed resets even though you've changed it and saved your changes?



MaccaDeez89 said:


> Looking at the price of windows 7 retail it's round about £131 on Amazon UK and the OEM is £71, and thats only HP!


Such is life in the grand old Microsoft Monopoly. Of course there are alternatives to paying for your OS. By which I mean installing Linux of course. :whistling:


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

I think the set that as the default speed I haven't altered anything except the date and time in the BIOS. 

According to google I can change the RAM speed by going into advance AI and chagne it from there.

I got the windows 7 oem sp1 64 bit HP. :thumb:


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## Vadigor (Apr 19, 2009)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*



MaccaDeez89 said:


> I think the set that as the default speed I haven't altered anything except the date and time in the BIOS.
> According to google I can change the RAM speed by going into advance AI and change it from there.


If your motherboard lists 1600 MHz as one of the available clock speeds and the RAM you're using is 1600 MHz as well than you should indeed set it to 1600 in the BIOS. As those are the factory speeds, it shouldn't count as an overclock. It's weird that it's being underclocked by default, perhaps I should have a look at my BIOS as well. :grin:

EDIT: Well what do you know, it's running at 1333 (2x666) here as well. Apparently it's simply the default RAM setting. Cheeky devils. :grin:


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## Vadigor (Apr 19, 2009)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

Edit window passed. Changed the XMP profile and now the RAM is running properly at 1600 Mhz.

MaccaDeez89, just make sure while you're changing the memory settings in the BIOS/UEFI, that you don't touch the voltage settings at all. This seems easier to do with the UEFI interface than it was in a good old fashioned BIOS. If you've changed anything about the CPU or voltages, discard any changes and begin again.


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

Will do.


Why does it do that ? Is it a power saving feature or something along those lines ?


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## Vadigor (Apr 19, 2009)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

Nah, from what I can tell it's simply the factory default. As most motherboards support a variety of RAM clocks they have to pick one to go with as the default. Running 1600 MHz RAM at 1333 isn't a problem, but if you put in 1333 MHz RAM on a board that's set to 1600 by default you'd be forcing an overclock without even knowing it.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

Memory Standard for the Asus SABERTOOTH Z77 is DDR3 1866/1600/1333 MHz.
It "should" run the 1600MHz RAM at it's rated speed by default.
But, setting manually is sometimes required.


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

Hi all. 

I'm nearly there, just need to install the OS, get the drivers, an anti virus. and im good to go.

Big thanks to all who helped, I appreciate it


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

Get the latest Mobo drivers from the Mobo manufacturer's site for your exact Model and OS.
MS Security Essentials is a free AV and it works.


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

Doing stress tests with P95.

My CPU temps are barely hitting 55 degrees.

First core hit 50, 2nd hit 53, third hit 55, and fourth hit 52. these are the max temps so far. The third core seems to be the highest all the time. 

Are these temps acceptable ?


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

While testing, yes.


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## MaccaDeez89 (Dec 26, 2012)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

Ive been doing some reading online about how long i should run this test. Most forums debate the 24 hour test time, arguing that you should run the test for as long as you use your pc everyday. I usually run my pc for 12 - 13 hours at the weekend and 7 hours during the week max.

My plans for this pc are mainly gaming and watching HD content. The time where I live right now is 15:14, I have been running prime for 35 mins. Should I run it right up till 1 in the morning (if all goes smoothly that is).

I will also run furmark to test my GPU. I will use prime95 to test my memory also.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: [SOLVED] Learning/Building a New PC.*

No need to repeatedly test and over stress the components.


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