# Stick House Winterization



## ClassCRV (Sep 5, 2012)

I'd like to hear suggestions and comments for leaving my stick house and heading for warmer climes this winter. I'll probably be gone two to three months, living in Eugene, OR, which gets several days of freezing temperatures, snow, and ice each winter. Since I live within the city limits and have city water, I'm thinking I need to turn the water off at the curb and drain all faucets until nothing comes out (not blow out with compressed air like the RV), make sure all underhouse pipes are well insulated, turn off the circuit breaker for the electric water heater, and keep the heater on at about 60 degrees.

I can't find anyone locally, including plumbers, who can tell me if there's anything else I need to do to keep the house safe while I'm relaxing in the sunshine.

Any suggestions????? Anybody????


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Hi ClassCRV....welcome to TSF!!

I've moved your thread to a better location to see if we can get you some answers.

IMO I would blow the water lines with compressed air.....you never know when there will be a low pipe that won't drain. Leave the water main disconnected at the meter (if it's in the basement) and check with the city on ways to protect it. They will probably want to remove the thing. Don't trust the valve at the curb (or wherever it is)......if it trickles, the pipes will fill back up. Drain all the traps in the sinks and toilets.....then fill with RV anti-freeze that is rated for your area. Do not leave the traps dry!! Sewer gas can seep into the house if the traps do not have liquid in them.....sewer gas can be deadly and is prone to exploding in some cases. 

You can leave the heat on if you want to pay for wasted utilities, but it's no guarantee if the power goes out for days. Better to winterize it like an RV and not worry about having someone check on the place or a power outage.


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## ClassCRV (Sep 5, 2012)

Wow!!! Thanks so much, SABL, for all that valuable info. Frankly, I'd feel better about blowing out the lines, as well as putting the RV antifreeze in the P traps. It hadn't occurred to me about the effect of a trickle, but I'll need to figure that one out. Sounds like it could be expensive -- however, no more so than burst pipes, I suppose.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Hi and welcome to TSF

Make sure you can get to the shut off, it may take a special wrench/socket to access you outdoor valve. Many places, like here, require a a very long tool to shut it off outside.

Don't forget to drain and turn off your hot water heater. Leave the drain valve open.

You want to hire a plumber to do this all.

BG


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## ClassCRV (Sep 5, 2012)

Thanks for your input Basementgeek. Winterizing the rig just seems a whole lot simpler and straightforward than trying to get through the winter without major damage to the house.


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