# 91' s10 blazer stuck throttle



## fazmiester (Apr 20, 2010)

have 4.3L, while driving the throttle stuck, it is not the linkage. when throttle is in idle position it is still sending way to much fuel causing the engine to run at full blast, is it the fuel postion sensor i did unplug it and it still did the same thing


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

Hi fazmiester


Check inside the throttle body if there is carbon build up where the throttle plate swivels. Use decarb spray to remove any debris that may be preventing the the throttle plate from closing. Lubricate the pivot points and manually snap the throttle back and forth to loosen any corrosion. Look at the distance where the throttle lever and stop screw meet, if the gap is between them is far you will need to re-adjust the throttle lever and idle stop screw.


post back your findings.


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## fazmiester (Apr 20, 2010)

the linkage works properly, when the throttle is in idle position and the butterflys(not sure of proper term) are closed the injectors are spraying fuel as if the gas was being floored, it either has to be a stuck injector or something electronic telling to send more fuel


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

The TPS sensor is stuck at WOT ( wide open throttle) disconnect the sensor and see if the rpm's drop or engine stalls.


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## fazmiester (Apr 20, 2010)

i just checked injectors they seem to be opening and closing fine alternating sprays, just to spraying to much, got to be in electronics


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## fazmiester (Apr 20, 2010)

disconnected tps and removed still same


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

If the engine is revving high disconnect the TPS and note the engine's reaction. 



post back your results.


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## fazmiester (Apr 20, 2010)

disconnected tps, still no change still over fueling


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

Look inside the throttle body and see if the butterfly is stuck on WOT. Remove the IAC ( Idle Air Control Solenoid) and see if the plunger has retracted all the way in. Test the IAC motor with a 9v battery to see if the motor expands and contracts normally, ( you can also do the test by connecting the IAC plug and just have someone turn the ignition key on/ off.) the first 2 pins nearest the IAC motor are the + and - then you just reverse polarity to see if it retracts. 

Note: Look for any hair line cracks along the intake manifold if the IAC checks out.

post back your findings.


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## fazmiester (Apr 20, 2010)

replaced IAC everything still the same its still sending to much fuel, dont see any cracks in manifold, ?????????


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

So far all sensors have tested OK, the intake system is clean and shows no damage to the butterfly or aluminum casing. Your efforts now have to be focused on the fuel regulator and the injectors. You will need to hook up a fuel pressure tester to test the regulator to see if it's doing its job. If the regulator doesn't work, the fuel pump's maximum output will be dumped into the cylinders. The injectors will also need to be tested to see if they are leaking, by using a DVOM test the injectors to see if they are shorted. 


post back your findings.


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## fazmiester (Apr 20, 2010)

figured it out, not being a mechanic i didnt notcice that one of the screws holding the butterfly plate on the shaft was broke off and the butterfly was binding up and wasnt allowing the throttle linkage go completely to its idle position something a mechanic would obviously notice or as a friend of mine did, so now i just have to get the broken screw out and a new gasket kit and its good to go, and then rebuild the front brakes that got destroyed when my daughter brought the blazer from 60 to 0 with the throttle wide open. 

anyways thanks for all the input


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

60-0 at full throttle? PLEASE tell me your gonna have those rotors turned and checked for burnt spots on the metal.


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## fazmiester (Apr 20, 2010)

im not going to turn rotors, i am going to replace them due to the fact they were a molton red by the time she got the vehicle stopped, also replacing calipers, seals on pistons probably damaged and i rather be safe than sorry


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

Ok..... molten red? I recommend not only the rotors and calipers be changed, but also you might want to consider the flex lines too and the hub bearings also. And check the front cv shaft boots to make sure they didn't melt any, trust me I speak from experience about the axles, if the boot is damaged the cv joint will fail, and on a S-10 Blazer its a royal pain in the kiester to get that axle nut off. If I remember right its a 1 3/8"


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