# Upgrading computer - trouble



## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Ok I am trying to upgrade my computer. Here are the new parts I have.

Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 ST3320620AS (Perpendicular Recording Technology) 320GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16822148140

AMD Athlon 64 3800+ Venice 2.4GHz 512KB L2 Cache Socket 939 Processor
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16819103531

Kingston HyperX 512MB 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400 (PC 3200) Desktop Memory
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16820144112

and 

NEC Silver 16X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R DL 16X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2M Cache IDE/ATAPI DVD Burner
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16827152060

I have installed everything. Right now I have only the new SATA drive, my VGA CARDEX|GF3TI200 TI450 64M RT video card in my AGP slot. 2 512MB ram sticks, my processor, and my drive. I have two other IDE HDs and a floppy I was going to install after I got it up and running. Well I get power to my system, but my monitor/mouse/ and keyboard are not working. The monitor is not getting any signal at all. Any help would be great.


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

where is the most relevant information
the power supply details
did you check you had enough power to run the system before buying the parts
set it up out of the case on a piece of cardboard with
cpu
video
ram
and see if it posts


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## TheMatt (May 9, 2006)

Does it power up for a moment and then power down? Do you get any beeps?


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

The PSU should be good The PSU did power the system before i upgraded. I even researched it and it should be able to handle it. I don't even have 2 of my HDs and my floppy plugged in. It powers up and stays on. The processor fan is running. I hear no beeps but there is another sound that is not the sound of my fans.


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

put your system specs in here
http://www.extreme.outervision.com/psucalculator.jsp
based on a quality supply and add 30% to the result


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Well its 223 it doesnt have my ram to choose from - PC3200 - 1gig. With 30% thats 289. Thing is my friend has basically the same, but a video card that demands more power, has a 300w psu and he is working fine.


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## Doby (Jan 17, 2006)

Did you do the out of case test?

What motherboard?


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

I did not do any testing. i just exchanged things. I have a decent knowledge of putting a comp together, but i guess not enough on my own. This is my motherboard: 

ASRock 939Dual-VSTA Socket 939 ULi M1695 ATX AMD Motherboard

http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16813157097


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## Doby (Jan 17, 2006)

Clear the cmos and give it a try if you have not already tried that


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

how is that done


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## Doby (Jan 17, 2006)

Get your manual out it will explain. There is a jumper on the motherboard usually near the battery. Un plug the computer from the wall outlet then change the jumper to pins 2&3 for 5 minutes then place the jumper back to pins 1&2.

Now see if you have anything on the screen


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Still nothing. My four fans work, so does my processor fan. My drive also works. I am unsure what else does becasue I get no signal to my monitor.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

second request = PSU make and model please ?


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Antec PP-303xP 300w


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## Barry_R (Aug 6, 2005)

I think it is under powered, I have a 450 watt on my simple P4 3.0 Northy system with AGP Video and 2 IDE drives.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

UKbskball:


a 300 watt PSU wont power up that system ! this is a common error most computer enthuasiusts make at one time or another (myself included!)
we upgrade & build a better system and forget to upgrade the power plant that makes it ALL run



I highly reccomend a 500 watt >>>> 550 is better unit the Antecs are decent supplies but you need bigger

I would reccomend the Antec True Power-2 550 watt unit @ newegg.com for around $90.00 or if you can swallow the pill get the Fortron (fsp) 600 watt unit for $139.00

keep us posted


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Ok that does sound logical, but my computer did work before with 2 IDEs. I have yet to hook them up and merely upgraded my motherboard and processor, ram and drive. But I do believe that that is the solution.

Between the two you have listed what is the main difference that makes the one 139. Also are those what you feel are the two best choices?


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## Barry_R (Aug 6, 2005)

By replacing all that you have created an entirely different computer that needs more juice. Imagine putting a V8 motor in a car that had a 4 cylinder motor then still using the fuel system from the 4 cylinder.

Both PSU's recommended are quality units. The wattage you select will dictate how much extra power you have. It is always good to have a good amount of extra power so the stress on the PSU is low. PSU's do not do very well running at their peak rating all the time.

This again can be compared to driving a car with the accelerator floored all the time, you will be replacing the motor sooner than later.


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Ok well once I get the response on the two PSUs i think I will order. I appreciate everyones help so far.

What about this PSU unit. Its 630W and cheaper

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817152026
RAIDMAX RX-630A ATX12V/ EPS12V 630W Power Supply 115/230 V CB, IEC, TUV, UL, CSA


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## Doby (Jan 17, 2006)

Stay away from raidmax I know the ones that come with cases are junk.

Get the Antec or Fortron preferably the Fortron


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Is the Fotron that much better to spend the extra $40. What are the clear cut benefits it gives me?


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## Barry_R (Aug 6, 2005)

Power, reliability and a better chance to withstand peak power draw without maxing out.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

depends on your budget Antec True Power-2 550 watt should cost around 89.00 if you can swallow the pill the 600 watt Fortron is a better unit at $139.00 there is also an OCZ 600 watt gamer PSU that is actually a rebranded FSP for 125.00 i believe its the 139.00 unit in a diff set of clothes ???????

newegg.com

stay away from any psu that is not on the borderline of $100.00 & more realistically a tad over

the generics use smoke & mirrors to get their ratings as their is no real governing body to police the mularky ratings that bogus units "claim" like 630 watts from a raidmax now thats a joke!


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

So between these three which is best:

FSP Group (Fortron Source) FSP600-80GLC ATX12V/ EPS12V 600W Power Supply 100 - 240 V CE,UL,CSA,TUV,NEMKO
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817104022

OCZ OCZ600ADJSLI ATX12V 2.01, ATX, BTX, SATA, P4, and EPS12V 600W Power Supply 115/230 V
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817711001

OCZ GameXStream OCZ600GXSSLI ATX12V 600W Power Supply 100 - 240 V CB/CE/CSA/UL/FCC
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817341001

FSP Group (Fortron Source) FX600-GLN ATX12V/ EPS12V 600W Quad. SLi Power Supply
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817104014


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

you cant go wrong with any or the supplies you have listed there !


if you "think" there is ever a chance you may upgrade to an SLI rig (dual video cards) then grab the quad rail

other wise think about rebates and such to improve the final cost

a good psu will save you alot of wasted dollars in the end run; nothing makes less sense than installing an inferior unit only to have it burn up hard drives, video card, memory cpu's motherboards and or multiples of the above

no other single component can rival the havok a failing PSU can apply to a computer system !! without exception


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

was your question is the Fortron really that much better than a Raidmax

answer: they dont even compete in the same league 


here is a internet wide published list of the hall of shame PSU's 


Some of these PSU's are dangerous to your system, some are just sub-standard, 
however NONE can be recommended, for high performance or over-clocked systems.

Achieve
Aerocool
Allied
Apex
Arrow,
Aspire > Dangerous! They don't even pretend to meet the ATX/AMD/Intel specs!
Austin
Codegen
Coolmax
Demon
Deer
Duro
Dynapower
Eagle
EagleTech
Foxconn
Foxlink
Hercules
InWin (except FSP models)
JustPC
Key Mouse
Kingwin
L&C
Logic
Linkworld
Macron Power
MGE
Mustang
Okia
Power-Man (except FSP models)
Powmax
Power-Up
Powerstar
QMax
Qtec
q-tec
Raidmax (except Topower/Tagan models, not sold with cases)
Real PC Power
Rhycon
Robanton
Rosewill
Skyhawk
Thermaltake (except the Thermaltake W0057 PurePower 500W, ToughPower 750)
TMP-ANS
Tsunami
Turbo
Turbolink
Ultra (except X2 & X-Finity)
US-Can
Viomax

Some of these PSU's are dangerous to your system, some are just sub-standard, 
however NONE can be recommended, for high performance or over-clocked systems.


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Well I am going to get the Fortron. That is a very good choice to make future upgrades easier?


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

wise move ! future upgrades means the FSP *wont *need replacing ALSO



especuially with the pending release of Dx10 video cards which will prove to be some insane power hogs but you will be ready!


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

whats FSP mean? I hope I don't sound too computer illiterate.


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

FSP Group (Fortron Source)


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Ok i just got the power supply and hooked it all up. First off the I don't know much about the power supply and connecting stuff so that is not helping. I connected the cords to the ATX Power Connector, and the ATX 12V Power Connector. The end I plugged into the 4x4 12v was labled CPU 1. Not sure if that was the right one or not. Also there was a cord with many ends labeled S-ATA(1-6). I connected S-ATA2 to my Sata HD. I then connected an end that fit to a cord that connects to the front of my case thats connected to my fans to power them. It also has a side to connect to my Drive. 

After all that my fans work, my processor fan works but nothing else does. Before my drive would work but nothing else. Maybe i am forgetting to connect something. 

Power Supply: http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16817104014

MotherBoard: http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16813157097

I have attached the manual for my motherboard.


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

anymore help would be great


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

hello


what motherboard make and model do you have


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

how many pins did the atx connector to your mobo have 20 or 24


did you hear a good firm "click" when the hold down snap locks engaged

did you set the volatge for 115 which is the United states setting


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

okay saw your motherboard model 


did you install the power plug needed by your video card ?????



also try firing it up with only one stick of memory



does the video card fan spin ????



video card maker & model ????


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Where is the power plug for the video card? The video card fan does not spin when the computer is turned on.

Video Card: VGA CARDEX|GF3TI200 TI450 64M RT

It all seems to be pushed in all the way.

ATX Power Connector 20 Pin

ATX 12v Power Connector 4Pin

I am not sure what the voltage setting is. How do I check and adjust this? Thanks so much


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

hello 


dont try running that video card any more until you find the specs for the voltage it takes to run it ! I am afraid its an older 4x card that uses 3.3V you need a newer one that uses 1.5 volts the 3.3v will damage the motherboard if continued?

I tried a *quick *google search for your card but only got stuff in foreign languages

I am out of time until this evening


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## Fr4665 (Nov 18, 2004)

is the card a ti200 or a ti450 cause both kinds exist


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Ok it is the GF3TI200 64MB - I have searched for more information on it but have yet to find anymore.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

can you borrow an agp video card or PCI express (your mobo will use either one) make sure its an 8X *capable* card 

your video card is wayyyyyy behind the times for the rest of your componets


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Nope I don't have access to either really. No computers in my house have one that would work. I guess I will just have to buy another. Secondly does that look to be the last problem to fix everything. The light on my keyboard doesn't come on but I am not sure if that is a problem or not until I get a display.

I suppose I should get another video card. I guess this causes my upgrade to become pricier than I originally planned. I guess is this a good place to get reccommendations on them. At the time the only computer game I play is Warcraft III, but I could see myself possible playing Oblivion. I would like a card good enough to play new games quite easily since I must buy one anyways.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

well to start with I suggest you make a post in the video card section for advice on which card to buy. make sure you list your full system specs or that will be the first question they give. Also your budget.

I would also include a link to this problem you are having just for "why not's sake"

you will get a full plate of suggestions I guarantee it! you can spend anywere from $80.00 to $300.00 depending on how intense you want to get.


My personal throw in will be an ATI X850 or X800 should cost about $130.00 ish

gamers love Nvidia so I will leave it at that >>>>


and ohhhhh yeah >>>> you WANT PCI express = cheaper & equal to AGP

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814131007

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814130062


I know what you mean by your upgrade has gone outta control !! I run into this all the time with my customers systems change big time in just a couple of years gone are the old days when specs didnt really change much over a 3 year period. Now in three years it is common place to have complete generation changes at least twice


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Ok well I must be doing something wrong. I installed the new graphics card pretty easily, and hooked my monitor up through DVI since that card can and started up my computer. Well there was no difference. My graphics card must have been working cause the fan was spinning. My monitor is still not getting any signal. 

Also my cd drive will not open either. It did at one point with my other power supply. Maybe I have some of the power cords hooked wrong.

I also switched my hard drive to see if that would help any. The connection to my SATA drive seemed very loose so I hooked up the IDE I was using previous as my Master drive. Still nothing. I am not sure what to try next.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

Ok I am very sympathetic that you are having such a difficult go here!


Lets start with the basic:


the power supply has two main connections >>>> the big 20 pin or 24 pin motherboard connector which has a snap lock clip on it >>>> unplug it and look for any foreign objects like plastic trimmings etc then reconnect and listen for the snap of the engaged lock?

there will be a four pin square connector (it should be labeled 12V CPU power connector) smae thing remove, inspect and reconnect and listen for the snap.

now; if your motherboard takes a 20pin connector ????; & the PSU you recently bought has a 24pin with a removable 4 pin (these are called 20+4) "if" you removed the four un-needed pins these are NOT the ones that power the CPU I have seen this mistake doen atleast 10 times sooo far!

check to be sure you cpu fan wire is connected to the motherboard ????

does the cpu fan spin upon powering system ??????

is the power switch on the back of the PSU set for your power needs United states is 115volt overseas is 230 volt ?????


check these and post back


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Ok my MB is 20 Pin and my powersupply is 20+4 Pin. The 20 Pin is labled Main and the 4 pin connected with it (the photo labeled power connector) is labled 24. The other 4 pins that are within all the cables of the PSU are labled CPU 1 and the other one CPU 2 one PCI-E1 and PCI-E2. The computer will not power up with the one labeled 24 but will with the one labeled CPU 1. The picture labled powersupply shows the back of the PSU. It doesnt show the voltage like my other one did.

Next I am not positive and not sure how it would have happened, but one pin of my 20 Pin connector looks different. I am not sure how it looked in the beginning, but I don't even see the piece if it did attach to the motherboards 20pin. I attached a picture of it called 20pin

The CPU fan does spin.

I did not notice any foreign objects in the way of the connectors. I can take more pictures or anything. I greatly appreciate your continued help.


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

you just leave the extra 4 pins from the main connector dangling loose
it auto detects the voltage so you have no slider switch on the back
http://www.bluemax.net/techtips/ATXPowerSupplyWiring/ATXPowerSupplyWiring.htm


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Ok I connected just the 20 pin to the motherboard and it fired up but still no signal on my monitor.


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

have you connected the aux plug to the m/b and your video card if it requires it


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Where does the Aux plug into on the MB because I am not sure if that had been done. And as far as I know my card does not require to be plugged into my motherboard.


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

not all m/b use them usually a halfinch square plug with 2 black and 2 yellow wires that plugs in near your main m/b connector


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## Done_Fishin (Oct 10, 2006)

ukbsktbll said:


> Where does the Aux plug into on the MB because I am not sure if that had been done. And as far as I know my card does not require to be plugged into my motherboard.



I thinks it's only PCI Express (PCIe) Graphics cards that require an extra power cable. Haven't seen any other graphics cards that require extra power. 
Some PC's require the 20 pin plug, plus a plug that resembles the split connector from AT power supplies AND a 4 pin plug (square shaped) that used to be plugged in next to the cpu but on later m/c's is plugged into 24 pin plug (which comprises the 20 pin plus the 4 pin in one socket).
The MFR's say that if you connect all power plugs then your motherboard can be damaged, I assume because too much current is drawn through tracks not able to cope with it, so they burn.


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

the extra 4pins on the main power plug does not replace the aux connection plug
does the voltage of the card and the m/b match up
http://www.playtool.com/pages/agpcompat/agp.html


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

The card is a PCI express card. Geforce 7600GT

http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16814130062


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

did you check the aux is plugged in


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

the missing pin in your 20 pin connector is normal




its time to do a bench build test


take your motherboard out of the case and place it on a piece of cardboard
(motherboard box works great for this!!!)

place only one stick of ram in the ram slot

remove PSU from case and connect to the motherboard

connect keyboard, monitor, mouse
no hard drives
use a precision (small blade) screw driver to jump the pins on the motherboard normally operated by the on & off case power switch

then fire it up >>>>> what happens

when you connect the monitor does the samll led on the front of the monitor shine green or yellow ????



does the cpu fan spin?????

does the green LED light on the motherboard glow ?????

post back with the results of the bench test


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Ok I am pretty sure I have found the problem. I had a friend over who is pretty good with computers help me out. We ended up finding out with my MB being a pretty new edition it didn't have many graphics cards it is compatible with. The only ones are:

ASUS EAX300/TD/128M/A RADEON X300
GECUBE RADEONR X300 PCIe 128MB RADEON X300
MSI RX300-TD128E RADEON X300
MSI RX300SE-TD128E RADEON X300SE
GIGABYTE GV-RX30128D RADEON X300

Which I believe are these cards.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814121551
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814241031
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814127192
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814125191

I have a few questions about this. Are these the compatible card, and how good are they. They are pretty inexpensive so I am not sure if that says anything. Also can I use any card with the chipset X300 or X300SE or must I use those cards. Lastly if those cards are not that great (like couldnt run games such as oblivion) would it be best to find a motherboard that can handle the card I have now Geforce 7600GT. The only problem is my processor - unhooking it may lose some of the thermal clay (i think thats what it is called). So i am not sure if that is bad or not - cause i have to take the heat sink apart from the processor. I appreciate all the help so far.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

UK:

first off I highly doubt those are the only cards compatible with your board ??? how did you deduce this info ????

The cards you have listed are not very good cards IMHO, the 7600GT will kick the dog snot outta all of them!

I would fire an email message off to tech support @ asrock to establish the info you have stated. I have NEVER heard of such a limited compatability ?????

I am very eager to hear the outcome of this issue.

BTW: have you succeded yet in getting the system to fire up with monitor working ?????

as for the thermal paste; dont give that two seconds worth of hesitation! its cheap to buy thermal grease (artic silver is the best!!) its very easy to re-apply search this forum for a moderator named tumbleweed36 he has the artic silver web link in his signature

I really think a quick email to asrock will finalize your last steps to getting smoothed out >>>> you will have a rock solid very fast system when you are done, the patience will pay off !!

guaranteed


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

I got it from this off their website, and the information is right in my MB manual.

http://www.asrock.com/support/VGA/PCIE.htm and you click on VGA support list and it takes you to this next link.
http://www.asrock.com/support/VGA/X300(939Dual-SATA2&939S56-M).htm

It was a brand new version. I had the one picked out and bookmarked and when I went to newegg the next day the item couldnt be found. So I searched for ASROCK socket 939 and that came up. It had no feedback which lead me to believe it was brand new. I will still send an email to them. Thanks

As of now I have sent them am email.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

if that does turn out to be such a limited list of compatible video cards I would send the mobo back and get a diff model


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

So I guess the best way to confirm this is from contacting ASROCK? Hopefully they will give all this information in the email I sent them.

Any if that is the case, are you one who can help with the selection of a sold MB. I really don't want to spend over 100. I need it to be socket 939, be able to hold 2 IDE HD, at least one SATA 3.0GB/s - maybe another but at least one. Needs it to be able to run the 7600GT - so a PCI express slot too and a few PCIs. Also I would like it to hold up to 4gigs of ram and be able to handle my ram: ( Kingston HyperX 512MB 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400 (PC 3200) ). I think that is really all that I have. Thanks


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

go for the first one
http://www.dealtime.com/xPP-motherboards-ASUS-socket_939~r-1~CLT-INTR~RFR-www.google.com


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## Done_Fishin (Oct 10, 2006)

Re the picture of your PSU 20 pin connector ...

That pin looks BURNT!! What colour is the wire behind it ?


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

I am using an asus A8N-Sli deluxe now and have had no complaints whatsoever very solid high performance board this board has held some raving reviews for quite a long time, it was a very high end board $$$$ until the release of the intel conroe

http://cgi.ebay.com/Asus-A8N-SLI-De...ryZ99245QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


I have built five of these so far with used boards off ebay, I paid $75.00 and under for them

I love it when a new product like the conroe comes out, you get really grab some great deals from the guys that love the latest and greatest but that stuff is just to pricey for me!

I dont like paying the long dollar anymore for computer parts >>>> 6-8 months later you will be hanging your head low!


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Are these both the board you recommended 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Asus-A8N-SLI-De...ryZ99245QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
and
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813131517

And they both can use my graphics card i assume.

Any I dont believe it is burnt out. Linderman said that was normal and it does power my system up.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

yes thats the board !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! buy from newegg.com though


that ebay guy I think is a slicker



yes the 20 pin is suppose to be missing I checked several new int he box PSU's they are all empty slots I never noticed that before either !!!



youll enjoy that board it held the pick of mobo for quite some time!


yes your card model will work in that one I GUARANTEE it !! or your money back !! how is that ???????????????


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

ha ha sounds great. i will order from ebay cause of warranties and i know i get everything that should come with it. 

Last question before I do this. I have my processor and heat sink attached to the other MB. When I remove it is there any special way to do it, and will I need to get more Thermal clay?


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

yes it will have to be renewed
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Ok thanks and earlier I meant i would order from Newegg. hopefully this will solve all my problems.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

KEEP us posted


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## Done_Fishin (Oct 10, 2006)

ukbsktbll said:


> Any I dont believe it is burnt out. Linderman said that was normal and it does power my system up.


I haven't seen a 20 / 24 pin connector that wasn't fully populated. If it's normal then there should be no wire in the entry point above. If there is a wire I should ask myself why .. and that pin still looks like it's half missing and has overheated!


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## Done_Fishin (Oct 10, 2006)

I have looked VERY carefully at your pictures, I have compared the connector with my power SUPPLIES and come o the conclusion that the wire is WHITE, the Negative 5 volt supply, rated around 0.5A.
If your motherboard and additional peripherals don't use this supply then all is well .. unil you add something that wants it!


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

@ Done:



I hope your shoes are clean; moma says youre not suppose to put dirty things in your mouth! when you profess such strong opinions and statements >>>> they should be backed up with a little research!

http://www.hothardware.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=75&threadid=31979&enterthread=y

http://pinouts.ru/Power/sfxpower_pinout.shtml


your power supplies are obviously OLDER units
ATX version 2.0 dropped that pin & wire along time ago

some older boards use the white wire >>>> in those situtations a PSU that is version 1.0 complaint is required


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## Done_Fishin (Oct 10, 2006)

linderman said:


> @ Done:
> 
> 
> 
> ...






















Thanks for correcting me .. I had originally compared the connector to one shown in *this very same thread *. 
I always research, even if I think I know, but hadn't heard that the -5V was now obsolete and no longer used .. if you note my message I was asking if there was a wire behind the "purportedly" missing/burnt pin? 



Done_Fishin said:


> I haven't seen a 20 / 24 pin connector that wasn't fully populated. If it's normal then there should be no wire in the entry point above. If there is a wire I should ask myself why .. and that pin still looks like it's half missing and has overheated!



Having 30 years experience of component level repairs in electronics systems, I take nothing for granted ... & I listen to what is being said, try to re-read what has been writen and then move accordingly. 

I have checked all my ATX psu's here at my home, even he newest on my P4S800D Celeron machine built about 18 months ago, has that wire!
Having said that, I cannot think of anything that might require to use that supply wire .. and it's obvious that it's not expected to do a great deal since there is only a half amp load. Check out what I said when I was expressing my doubts about it being missing. I think I used terms like "in my experience" and " the power supply will work fine until you need that supply rail"

Anyway that is what this forum is all about .. sharing experiences and knowledge .. so it was good for me too because I just got updated again!


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Ok I don't have the arctic silver yet. Does this have to be bought online like on Newegg, and what is the best kind. I saw something about arctic silver 5 but not too knowledgable about this. Also I do have the new motherboard, is it ok to run it for a while with the thermal paste that came with it. I also have 5 system fans plus the heat sink so it should be cool. Hopefully i can get it up and running

Thanks


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

arctic silver5 is the best we can get here


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

so how do I go about getting it here?


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

yes you can get AS-5 from newegg



their shipping is very fast


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

I am not sure why but my computer still will not post on my monitor. For the first time I think the lights on my keyboard do light up, and after hooking up my IDE not my sata I believe I can here it start up. I just still cant get it to post up.I believe everything is hooked up right. Should I be using the 20 + the 4 connected with it, and another 4 pin for the atx power. Not really sure whats up.


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

if your m/b is 24 pin connect the psu plug if it is 20 pin slide the 4 pin plug off the ens and leave it dangling
connect the aux power plug to the m/b it is about 1/2 inch square and usually has 2 yellow and 2 black wires
some m/b use a atx plug into the m/b
if the video card requires an extra power lead connect that
here is a driscription of the different connectors
http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Ok I have the 20 and the 4 plugged into the MB which is 24 pin (the picture a few posts up from Done_Fishin). I also have a 4 pin plugged into the ATX12v. There are two plugs both with black and yellow wires with green stipes on one and blue on the other. They are labeled CPU 1 and CPU 2. The MB powers up with it or without it.

Everything on the cpu seems to work - the CPU fan, the graphics card fan works, all my fans work, my dvd drive has power,my keyboard lights up and the mouse does too, and when I hook up my IDE drive I believe I hear it start up. I am not sure what the SATA drive sounds like cause i have never had one. So basically everything but a signal to my monitor.


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

you have the cpu 1 plugged in


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

yes that is what the cord is labled that I have plugged into the 4 pin ATX12V


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

set it up out of the case on a piece of cardboard with just a basic config of
cpu
video
ram
speaker
see if it posts
if not try it with 1 stick of ram at a time and try it in different slots
try it with no ram and see if you receive the bios error code that it is missing


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

so do I need to start it up like linderman posted whats the best way to start it up. Like linderman posted http://www.techsupportforum.com/showpost.php?p=671507&postcount=55 using a small blade - knife i guess is fine?


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

yes it eliminates a faulty button or case connection


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

by setting up and running your board on a piece of cardboard you can verify that no case shorts are occuring and no power switch problems are effecting you



post the results of your bench build


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

linderman said:


> the missing pin in your 20 pin connector is normal
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ok I finished this test. Had the video card in, one ram piece, connected my keyboard, mouse and monitor. I removed the PSU from the case and had it sitting next to the motherboard - both on a large piece of cardboard. I used a knife to jump the pins, the CPU, MB, and video card fans spun, but my monitor light went from green to yellow like usual. Could it be my monitor? When the computer is off it give the usual searching for signal image.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

if you can try another monitor ?????


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## carsey (Aug 19, 2006)

Worth a try.


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

yeh i'll give that another try i suppose.


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Well I tried an old CRT monitor from a dell and it didn't work. My mom has bought a new Dell 20'' monitor I could try it with that. I really don't think it would be my monitor. It has worked perfectly fine for the time I had it and worked fine up to the point I decided to upgrade. My friend who is pretty knowledgable of computers and putting them together was very unsure of what the problem was. Once we found out the video card was not compatible with the mb he thought that had to be the definite answer. I do have just the power jumper plugged in when I had it all in the case. Would taking any pictures of the set up or anything like that improve any help you can give.

I tried the bench test with 1 slot of ram and no ram too.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

yes please give pictures


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Ok here is just some pics of the motherboard. Let me know what I should take pictures of to help out. This is my MB out on the cardboard for the bench test.


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## Done_Fishin (Oct 10, 2006)

I am not 100% sure but it looks like you have your Graphics card in the wrong slot! According to the manual that looks like the future CPU slot that you've popped your card into.


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## Done_Fishin (Oct 10, 2006)

Please double check your locations according to the above information


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Oh i bought a new MB cause that one couldnt handle the new card I bought. It is this motherboard:

ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe ATX AMD Motherboard - Retail at Newegg.com


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

please verify that your video card is in the single video card slot ???? 
(see mobo manual) you dont use the SLI slot until you have two video cards 

please check and post reply your 12v power and 24-pin look correct


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Yeh it says "In Normal mode, only the PCI Express blue slot can be usedfor PCI Express x16 graphic cards. The PCI Express black slot functions as a PCI Express x1 slot."


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

your video card should be in the BLUE slot thats where I am running my single video card!


& the blue slot should be the closest one to the ram slots.



I too am running your A8n board


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

its in the blue slot which is the closest one to the ram and the cpu too.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

have you tried clearing the cmos (see manual for CLRTC) dont have my manual with me so I cant recite which page but its towards the front around the connections descriptions


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

remove the video card and then look in the slot real close and carefully for foreign objects or bent pins

reinstall vid card




also fire it up without any video card installed see if it beeps

then power down and reinstall vid card


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

ok for it to beep i need my speakers plugged in right. Anything else other than ram and CPU?


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## kevlav (Oct 31, 2006)

No you dont need your speakers m8 your Motherboard has a little one on for Post beeps 

Does you Motherboard have on board GFX ?? If so try taking your GFX card out and using on board see what happens

Did you say that you see your keyboard lights flash after power up ??

Make sure your RAM is compatible with your Motherboard and is Installed correctly

I have had this problem myself before I built a system powerd it on all fans went keyboard lights flashed but monitor stayed in standby no post beeps at all.

It turned out to be faulty RAM

try each stick of RAM individualy in each slot on your board

I am 90% sure it will be your RAM other 10% could be GFX Card


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

UK:


go to the website of your ram maker there should be a memory selector there check the selector just like you were goign to buy the exact same size and speed ram stick see if the memory selector gives your ram's model number as being compatible


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Never would have thought. my ram model is KHX3200A/512

here is the list

Search Results for: ASUS A8N-SLI/A8N-SLI Deluxe/A8N-SLI Premium Motherboards
Part Number Description Price



KVR266X64C25/128 128MB 266MHz DDR Non-ECC CL2.5 DIMM Get Price
KVR266X64C25/256 256MB 266MHz DDR Non-ECC CL2.5 DIMM Get Price
KVR266X64C25/512 512MB 266MHz DDR Non-ECC CL2.5 DIMM Get Price
KVR266X64C25/1G 1GB 266MHz DDR Non-ECC CL2.5 DIMM Get Price
KVR266X72C25/256 256MB 266MHz DDR ECC CL2.5 DIMM Get Price
KVR266X72C25/512 512MB 266MHz DDR ECC CL2.5 DIMM Get Price
KVR266X72C25/1G 1GB 266MHz DDR ECC CL2.5 DIMM Get Price
KVR333X64C25/128 128MB 333MHz DDR Non-ECC CL2.5 DIMM Get Price
KVR333X64C25/256 256MB 333MHz DDR Non-ECC CL2.5 DIMM Get Price
KVR333X64C25/512 512MB 333MHz DDR Non-ECC CL2.5 DIMM Get Price
KVR333X64C25/1G 1GB 333MHz DDR Non-ECC CL2.5 DIMM Get Price
KVR333X64C25K2/256 256MB 333MHz DDR Non-ECC CL2.5 DIMM (Kit of 2) Get Price
KVR333X64C25K2/512 512MB 333MHz DDR Non-ECC CL2.5 DIMM (Kit of 2) Get Price
KVR333X64C25K2/1G 1GB 333MHz DDR Non-ECC CL2.5 DIMM (Kit of 2) Get Price
KVR333X64C25K2/2G 2GB 333MHz DDR Non-ECC CL2.5 DIMM (Kit of 2) Get Price
KVR333X72C25/256 256MB 333MHz DDR ECC CL2.5 DIMM Get Price
KVR333X72C25/512 512MB 333MHz DDR ECC CL2.5 DIMM Get Price
KVR333X72C25/1G 1GB 333MHz DDR ECC CL2.5 DIMM Get Price
KVR400X64C3A/128 128MB 400MHz DDR Non-ECC CL3 (3-3-3) DIMM Get Price
KVR400X64C3A/256 256MB 400MHz DDR Non-ECC CL3 (3-3-3) DIMM Get Price
KVR400X64C3A/512 512MB 400MHz DDR Non-ECC CL3 (3-3-3) DIMM Get Price
KVR400X64C3A/1G 1GB 400MHz DDR Non-ECC CL3 (3-3-3) DIMM Get Price
KVR400X64C3AK2/256 256MB 400MHz DDR Non-ECC CL3 (3-3-3) DIMM (Kit of 2) Get Price
KVR400X64C3AK2/512 512MB 400MHz DDR Non-ECC CL3 (3-3-3) DIMM (Kit of 2) Get Price
KVR400X64C3AK2/1G 1GB 400MHz DDR Non-ECC CL3 (3-3-3) DIMM (Kit of 2) Get Price
KVR400X64C3AK2/2G 2GB 400MHz DDR Non-ECC CL3 (3-3-3) DIMM (Kit of 2) Get Price
KVR400X72C3A/256 256MB 400MHz DDR ECC CL3 (3-3-3) DIMM Get Price
KVR400X72C3A/512 512MB 400MHz DDR ECC CL3 (3-3-3) DIMM Get Price
KVR400X72C3A/1G 1GB 400MHz DDR ECC CL3 (3-3-3) DIMM


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

So I guess my ram is not compatible, but is there anyway to see if everything else is working right. Can you remove all the ram and boot it up, and should it still post? Thanks


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## Done_Fishin (Oct 10, 2006)

Without RAM , the only thing that should happen is that the mobo will power on and beep at you until you turn it back off, assuming that the speaker is working


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

Contact newegg and see if they will let you swap it


also if you email Kingston they may help you in the same manner, I have had Crucial do that for me in the past!


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Newegg won't without having a 15% restocking fee cause I ordered it over a month ago. I can always just sell them on ebay. Shouldnt be too bad. Which of the ram that is compatible will be the best?


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## Done_Fishin (Oct 10, 2006)

If you paid a 100 for them at Newegg (for example) and they are offering you 85 if they take them back, where will you get the most cash from .. newegg or e-bay?
If you get replacement items from newegg maybe it'll be in your better interest to return them.

I'll leave it up to the Hardware Experts to answer what RAM is best ..


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## kevlav (Oct 31, 2006)

That RAM you have IS compatible with your board m8 it is DDR400/PC3200 which is right.

Can I just ask how many sticks of RAM do you have and what slots are they in??

You have to have a stick in the slot nearest your CPU DIMM 1.

If you have a stick in the slot nearest your CPU and it aint working try puting it in the second slot DIMM 2. If it still aint working I would say your RAM is faulty.

But I would try the thing I said about the GFX card aswell before you buy new RAM to try.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

inasmuch as the ram sticks are not listed as tested and compatible for his board trips lotts of red flags and whistles for me


keep us posted


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

I have them in the two slots closest to the CPU and even tried just one in the slot closest to the CPU. But it shows the ram is not compatible with the motherboard so I must get some that is. Is there anyway to determing if that is the final step in making this all work?


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## Done_Fishin (Oct 10, 2006)

At the risk of getting egg on my face for a third time .... 

I have looked again at the pictures you attached a couple of days ago. It looks like you have coloured memory slots. You should first populate the slots of the same colour and in pairs of matching memories. I am not sure if this board accepts a single RAM stick or RAM that spreads across the slots without being paired up.


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

So should I put two Sticks one in each of the blue slots, though it still is telling me that one is not compatible but i will try that.


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## Done_Fishin (Oct 10, 2006)

Going by what I see to be the standard these days, first try the blue pair and if you like try the black after that. Doesn't hurt to try and it may well be that your RAm is dual Channel and requires Dual channel pairing.


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Wow, of everything that was it. I just put the ram pieces into the blue slots and it worked. Wow. I have one last question. My HD is 320, and I have heard you must download and install some program to make it read the full size. Where do I find it - its a Seagate, and can I install windows on it before I have done this and make a partition. Thanks so much for all the help. I really appreciate it.


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## Done_Fishin (Oct 10, 2006)

Sorry it took so long .. got caught on a few red herrings and changes of the faulty environment!

First thing I would do about your HD is check your manual, sorry I didn't download the final board manual you went with .. but it should tell you there what HD size it will support as max.XP SP2 supports up to 128GB and offhand I can't remember what is required to take it above that limit. There is a hack that microsoft were giving for extending above the 128GB limit plus a lot of attention has been given to the use of USB or Firewire external drives since they are not limited by BIOS to 128GB.
Perhaps one of my TSF colleagues will have a more informative answer for you. If I see no reply I will attempt to research tomorrow and give you an answer.


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Well its a SATA and supposedly you must download a Big Drive Enabler or something like that


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

hello UK:



happy as hell to hear you got the [email protected]#$%^&*()_ running !!!!!! congrats ray: 


I dont know how I missed your ram not being in the blue slots of your pictures bad me!

NOW onto the drive size question:


*One of our TSF guru's (Crazi Joe) wrote this excellent summary about DDO*

DONT USE DDO (BIG DRIVE ENABLER)
here is why not!
http://www.techsupportforum.com/har...ing-tips-tricks/123029-137gb-barrier-ddo.html


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

now onto the the finer points of drive limits

several factors can determine what size drive or partition you may be limited to:

A) bios revision you dont have to sweat this one just about all bios after 2003 are ready to surpass the 127gig bios drive size limit your board Asus A8N is 100% sure able to get past that limit

B version of windows now the original version of Win XP with NO service packs was limited to under 137gig with the *addition* of service pack one and above you will not be limited to the 137gig barrier

if your Win XP CD does not have service pack one or higher intergrated and included into it you can do this!
http://www.techsupportforum.com/har...-add-service-pack-2-your-existing-win-cd.html


by the way: adding service pack one or higher AFTER the operatign system is installed does not work to correct this barrier you must have service pack one or higher included in the Win XP install CD at the time of installing the OS


by the way: are you prepared to tackle the SATA driver on the floppy disk at the F6 prompt ???????


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

youre almost there continue your patience look how much you have learned! :upset:


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

I guess I want to fix the SATA to read the correct size. How is this done? Can it be done without having to reformat and reinstall windows? I did install all the microsoft window updates


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

which version of Win XP does your install CD have No servcie pack, Service Pack 1 or Service Pack 2 ?????


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

probably just SP1 all i see on it that may help is it is Version 2002
Windows XP Prof. I remember installing service pack 2 when it came out by downloading it from microsofts website


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

unfortunately yes you will need to reinstall your OS


you will need to do this first!

http://www.techsupportforum.com/har...-add-service-pack-2-your-existing-win-cd.html


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

I have blank cds that are 700MB is that larger enough?


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

should be fine


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

i cant find one of the AutoStreamer 1.0.30 that will install all the way. They keep telling me they are corrupt


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

i have never used that one i use nlite
|MG| Free Download - nLite 1.2.1 Final
MSFN's Unattended Windows : Unattended Windows Introduction


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

the autostreamer program keeps telling me That I havent selected a valid service pack file, when I selected the exact one I downloaded from the microsoft website.


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

this one?


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

the one from the link that linderman posted. i went there than clicked the link for the sp2 update and it said that


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

try it with nlite


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

When should I see the full hard drive being present. because I reinstalled windows with the service pack and when I got back into windows the hard drive was just the partition that I made while installing windows


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

did you do a repair install or a clean install


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

clean install


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

then you have wiped everything but the new from the drives and the rest of the drive will be unallocated
look in disk management and you will see it


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

well should I just redo it chosing repair or find it in disk management - well in disk management I see 2 different amounts but they dont add up to 320.


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Also after I install windows, then go to repair it with the new windows CD with the SP2 in it it changes the screen to black and looks like i am in DOS. I am at the C:\WINDOWS directory with a list of commands and am not sure what to do.


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

you either do a fresh install with the slipstreamed cd which wipes everthing
or you repair the current installation with the slipstreamed disk which leaves all of your files intact
you don't need to use the original xp disk again as the slipstreamed disk makes it obsolete
the slipstreamed disk is now your windows disk


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## Done_Fishin (Oct 10, 2006)

ukbsktbll said:


> Also after I install windows, then go to repair it with the new windows CD with the SP2 in it it changes the screen to black and looks like i am in DOS. I am at the C:\WINDOWS directory with a list of commands and am not sure what to do.



Sound like you're trying to do the "repair" too soon, don't select the initial R for recovery console, continue, select install and then when it finds your current installation select R for repair.

sorry for the late intervention .. had to go out .. AND they don't have pc's on the underground!!


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

no problem I will give that a try thanks


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Ok well I tried that and it repaired it like normal, and when it restarted and was going through the loading screen it told me the SATA was 320GB but when I get in windows the only thing there is my partition of 80GB


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

what does it list in the computer management section,if the balance of the drive is unformatted
then windows will not see it till it is formatted


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Under disk management it lists 80GB and 48GB totaling up to 128GB


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

then it sounds like either the disk did not slipstream or you installed with the original disk not the slipstreamed one


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

ok I did use the slipstream cd, did i do it wrong or was the cd created wrong?


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

When I view system information it doesnt tell me my computer has service pack 2 yet. so i will try it again but I am wondering if the slip stream CD was not created correctly.


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

which program did you use to create the slipstream


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

auto streamer i finally got it to download correctly. i had to use IE to download it.


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

and i guess but do I need service pack one installed before I can do the slipstreamcd?


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

i have never used that one so i am not much use as to why it failed to slipstream it
try one with nlite


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

ok what about SP1 and what is the .NET framework?


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

is this the correct place to download SP2 to slipstream it with nlite?

Download details: Windows XP Service Pack 2 for IT Professionals and Developers


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

yes you need the network install for slipstreaming
with nlite you can include the windows update pack and netframework into the slipstream
but then they will not fit on a cd,so use a dvd or do the extra later


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## Done_Fishin (Oct 10, 2006)

ukbsktbll said:


> is this the correct place to download SP2 to slipstream it with nlite?
> 
> Download details: Windows XP Service Pack 2 for IT Professionals and Developers


yes

I have used slipstream and it's very easy to use .. BUT you must be in XP to run it!

put your CD in your cd tray
download sp2 to your HD

follow the intructions .. if you don't use the C: drive use any other drive but remmeber to change the instructions you give accordingly, also if your CD drive isn't D: then just browse to it when you open slipstream.
It's really easy , so easy that I missed a copuple of steps and burnt a fw cd's more than I should have done because I wanted to change some stuff from the normal and remembered after or just after I had started the burn


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Ok I believed it worked. I don't see the full HD under my computer but when I go to disk management I see both sections, 80GB abd 218GB or so. How do I access the 218GB and have it show it my computer??


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## Done_Fishin (Oct 10, 2006)

In disk management what does it say about the partitions?
Maybe it needs to be formatted ?


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

the 218gig partition needs to be formatted simply go into disk management and right click on the 218gig partition and selct format of course you WANT the NTFS file system


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

How is that done because I am in the disk management area and see the 218GB part but dont see an option to format it. Is it something you have to do outside of windows?


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

right click on it and choose format


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

under disk management? it says it is unallocated and there isnt a format option for me when i right click on it.


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

click on the tabs at the top there will be a format option in one


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Id assume it would be under Action but the only options are 

Refresh
Rescan Disks
All Tasks> New Partition and Properties
Help

Its not at the top its on the botton part and it says Unallocated, has a black bar over it signifing that, and grey lines.

I can do a print screen if that will help


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## Done_Fishin (Oct 10, 2006)

I'm really looking forward to seeing how this turns out .. seems so simple yet at every turn there seems to be a stumbling block!

Is it because it's over the 128 limit? I seem to remember reading a few threads from others (other forums) that had problems getting over the 128 barrier. It's rather like ICS that Microsoft insist could be installed setup & run from WinSE but I never managed to do it! Just wouldn't run, it would install, go through the motions and conk out at the point that it should have had my connection in shared mode. I finally got in running in Me, by using Kerio, several years after I first wanted to do it! It only ever seemed to work "properly" when I got into XP. 
The alternative to getting a >128 GB drive running when BIOS doesn't recognise it, is to set it up on an internal PCI card (widely deemed to be the easiest and most surefire way to get it set up without problems and loss of hair) .. could that be the case here too?


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Over 128GB? I am not sure if that is the reason or something else. Can I not format it outside windows?


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## BuffaloChips (Oct 31, 2006)

UMMMMM, since the disk space in question is unallocated you need to create a partition silly! Then format.


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## Done_Fishin (Oct 10, 2006)

Not as far as I know, since I think that the limit also has to do with BIOS & physical addressing limitations, I'll start to check it out again , it's some time since I researched the subject.


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## Done_Fishin (Oct 10, 2006)

Don't forget



linderman said:


> now onto the the finer points of drive limits
> 
> several factors can determine what size drive or partition you may be limited to:
> 
> ...


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

look at post 169


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

why not just fresh install your OS now that you have SP-2 slipstreamed onto your XP disk ??????



I believe the problem you are encountering is SP-2 has to be included at the time of OS install to achieve the 48-bit LBA (logical block addressing) which is a key component of getting past the drive size barrier

what have you got to lose >>>>>>>>> I know for a FACT any bios revision that your board may have is capable of using drives larger than the barrier!

fresh install !


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

i thought he had this thread is that long it is hard to keep track


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## Done_Fishin (Oct 10, 2006)

You may find that it is advisable to limit your partitions to less than or max 137GB in view of the info that I have been reading, in spite of the articles being about a year or more old, I have found nothing to substantaite that the problem has been fixed other than adding an extra card to your system (that supports your whole drive because of LBA48 SUPPORT)

In fact after reading this stuff you may well decide that it would be safer to add an LBA48 PCI card to your system!

Using a software fix rather than a hardware fix seems to leave us in the position that should a motherboard upgrade be required or the drive gets a transfer to another system then we will LOSE ALL ACCESS TO DATA above the 137GB limit and a format will be required to regain use of the area.


Questions about 137GB hard drive limit - Topic Powered by eve community



> LordHunter317
> "POSIX-compliant Troll"
> Ars Tribunus Militum
> et Subscriptor
> ...





> Bobo The Clown
> Wise, Aged Ars Veteran
> 
> Registered: November 06, 2004
> ...



The ATA Interface Limit (128 GiB / 137 GB) Barrier



> Reference Guide - Hard Disk Drives
> A Brief History of the Hard Disk Drive
> Construction and Operation of the Hard Disk Drive
> Hard Disk Geometry and Low-Level Data Structures
> ...




MSFN Forums > 137GB limit - ESDI_506.PDR and other limits

137GB limit - ESDI_506.PDR and other limits




> azagahlMay 24 2005, 06:16 PM
> Seems only problems trying to write to harddisks larger than 137 GB then?
> 
> The problem is in the file ESDI_560.PDR. The code it uses to access the hard disk does not support 48-bit LBA. As soon as you try to write beyond the 137 GB point of your hard disk, it will wrap around and access the area at 0 GB, most likely completely trashing your data. Reading beyond 137 GB will most likely cause crashes. Partitions don't cure this.
> ...


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

LOL: thanks to all staffers & our esteemed manager (Dai) for staying with this epic saga; its getting close to complete resolution thanks to the participation of all :3stooges:


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

How to enable 48-bit Logical Block Addressing support for ATAPI disk drives in Windows XP


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

Done:


I am running this poster's motheboard (asus A8N-sli deluxe) now and using hard drives larger than 137 gig but I have added SP-2 to my install disk prior to OS install to accomplish this !

this is not "theory" stuff I have two of these machines in stock now, they work and use the full 200 gig & 250 gig drives !

he simply needs to do a complete fresh install with an OS disk that has SP-2 added

simply adding SP-2 after the install does NOT correct the absence of 48 bit LBA


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## BuffaloChips (Oct 31, 2006)

First, I never said anything about partitioning the whole thing. But I guess I missed something. I take it the drive is much larger than what you are talking about. I had something similar recently. Don't remember what I did to fix it though.


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

What was suggested by BuffaloChips. I just partitioned the 218GB fully and it is now accessible. So at the time everything is running smoothly. I still need to put my other 2 HDs in the computer but its looking good. 

When installing my card GeForce 7600GT it says it hasnt been tested for compatibility w/ Windows XP. Is that a problem or anything. Thanks


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

dont worry about the "Hasnt been tested message" just click on the install anyway!


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## Done_Fishin (Oct 10, 2006)

:wave: 
I was going to say that too but didn't want to steal your glory.:grin: :grin: 

Thanks for helping me to update my text books .. as I said, by the time we get the books - technology has changed.:4-dontkno


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

I believed I have one last question for now. I have two IDE drives, I can only get one to work at a time. I wasn't sure if I had them set correctly as slave slot, but I got one to work, then unhooked it and got the other to work. Though when I have them both hooked up I can't get windows to load.


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## BuffaloChips (Oct 31, 2006)

Looks like you need to set one as master and one as slave.


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

I believe I have. My SATA is the master and the two IDEs are slave drives.


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## BuffaloChips (Oct 31, 2006)

If the ide's are on the same cable one has to be set as master and one has to be set as slave. Master and slave are set on a per channel basis.


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

ok i see i will try that.


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## ukbsktbll (Oct 9, 2003)

Thanks for that i got it to work now.


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## BuffaloChips (Oct 31, 2006)

Glad to hear it!


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## Done_Fishin (Oct 10, 2006)

ukbsktbll said:


> Thanks for that i got it to work now.


:4-cheers:


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

being as you have it all fixed i will close this thread if you have more problems start a new one


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