# 1996 Audi No spark



## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

Alright guys... I just got out of work and my car wouldn't start... I didn't have the proper tools with me to diagnose the issue... To make sure I bring the right stuff with me tomorrow I would like to run the issue by you...


Last two days I have been experiencing a rough idle. Was going to check it out this weekend when I have off work.

Today, I got to work and parked my car in a metered spot, then I moved it at 3pm to a spot in the parking deck. 

Left work at 10pm, the car would not kick. 

Battery is fine and the starter is cranking good.

Preliminary check shows no spark (checked #3 cylinder).

I do not have access to the ignition schematic at this time.

This is a 1996 Audi A4 Quattro, 5-speed 2.8L (AHA).


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

Looking like it's the ignition relay...

My father is going to get one for me today, I will install it and let you know.


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

No luck with the Ignition relay... 

I am at wit's end... I am stuck working on my day off this week and have absolutely no time to sit down and troubleshoot... No way to get parts and no money to have it towed... 

My logic...

No spark...

Items to check...

Coil packs (has 3, all failing simultaneously is possible but not plausible).
Harness. (Initial inspection shows connections good)
Ignition Relay (replaced, ruled out)
Cam Sensors (Even with a faulty cam sensor the plugs should still fire, just erratically... At least in my experience)
Crank Sensor.
ECM.

Am I missing anything???


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

Well... We figured it out... Brand new tensioner pulley let loose and the timing belt was nearly shredded... I am lucky it didn't break completely... This is a zero clearance valvetrain... 

Looks like I am going to be spending Easter Sunday tearing the front of my motor apart... :banghead:


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

> the timing belt was nearly shredded


Have fun with that one!

I still have a while before I have to tackle mine.


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

This will be the second time within 6 months... If you remember my other thread when I replaced the Water Pump... 

Should take me about 3 hours with hand-tools on the ground to fix...


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

I still can't believe that I fell into the trap of not checking the obvious first... If I had removed the timing belt cover and looked the other day, I wouldn't have wasted my time with all of this unnecessary troubleshooting... 

I made the assumption that the timing belt was good, because I just replaced it not long ago... :banghead:


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

So you did all the work for the water pump but never did the timing belt?









How many miles do you have on the car?


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

So why is there no spark?
Did a piece of belt hit something like the crank or cam sensors?


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Wouldn't it crank faster with the valves all out of time?

BG


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

Masterchiefxx17 said:


> So you did all the work for the water pump but never did the timing belt?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Well, I guess you didn't read the other thread, or my comment earlier... The timing belt, tensioner and idler pulleys were all replaced recently...



Wrench97 said:


> So why is there no spark?
> Did a piece of belt hit something like the crank or cam sensors?


The cam sensors are located on the back of the motor and the Crank sensor is located on the bottom... Apparently when out of whack can cause spark to be lost in one or more cylinders... It could be a failsafe... Don't know for sure.



Basementgeek said:


> Wouldn't it crank faster with the valves all out of time?
> 
> BG


Not necessarily... The valvetrain would only be out of time by a few degrees... Not enough for valve to piston contact... There would still be compression, it would just come earlier or later in the stroke.


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

BTW... MCxx17... I wasn't trying to be rude or brash... I reread my post and it seems a little harsh... I'm sorry about that.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Before you get too far along, after tearing down check to make sure both camshafts are turning free, is there a specific reason you feel it was the tensioner that started the issue? I have in the past seen a tight cam stress the belt and cause the tensioner to fail(4 Cam V6 Olds motor)


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

Other than the fact that the tensioner is exploded all over the place???

When I replaced the belt, both cams were free spinning, to the point they could be turned, about 15 degrees each direction @ TDC.

I will be inspecting everything (and taking photos) when I do the job next week.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Could be a bearing failure in the tensioner, but check the belt(or what's left of it) for any signs of missing/stripped off teeth.


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

What I have seen so far (of the belt) the teeth are intact but there is a huge groove cut into the top (smooth) side... Probably from riding the edge of the tensioner... The edge is a bit worn due to it's rubbing against the Timing covers...

I will be doing a full inspection of the belt when it is removed from the vehicle...

Replacing the timing covers is going to be a pain... I will have to pay a premium for them at L&T Enterprizes (The local VW/Audi used parts place) because I won't have the time to visit Joe's EZ Pull.

I am replacing the timing belt, tensioner pulley and idler pulley... Hopefully the Water-Pump pulley is intact and undamaged... I noticed what may be a groove worn into it... It is too buried right now to inspect it properly.

That and cleaning all the plastic/rubber shavings from inside the timing housing... 

Unfortunately I will be doing this in the Parking Deck at work, which limits me to starting after 4PM (When Administration leaves)... They have already expressed to me once before that they would prefer I didn't work on vehicles on county property... 

Sorry, I don't have a choice right now...


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

I can understand why the Administrators would not be happy with you if you are on their
"dime".

I have found things like some of super cleaning sprays, say like Formula 409 do a nice job and are cheaper than buying things like brake clean at auto parts store.

Good luck.

BG


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

I am not talking about doing this while on-duty... Just on county property

Thanks BG... Advance Auto is open today for some reason, and they have the timing belt in stock... My buddy had a brand-new Audi tensioner... I just hope the idler is okay... I may have the girl up and running today after all!


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

That's all about storm water runoff and pollution control.
If it's a parking lot only the EPA has different guide lines then if it's allowed to be used as a repair area, if not they would have to police employee automobiles for oil and coolant leaks and ban them from the property absurd as it sounds.


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

Amazing... The Timing Belt Tensioner I have is not the correct part... Neither of the open car chains has it in stock... Looks like I am going to have to slap the front end back on my car and finish up later in the week...


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

WOW what a job !

BG


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

Basementgeek said:


> WOW what a job !
> 
> BG


It's actually not that bad... Beside draining the coolant and fighting with those Audi radiator hoses, the bumper is held on by two bolts and the entire front clip is held on by 14 bolts... The harness connectors are easy to get at too... Took me about 10 minutes to yank the front end off...

If I attempted to do this without taking the front end off, it would have been a nightmare...


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

It seems like everything is against me...

Turns out that my wife, inadvertently, ordered me the wrong Timing belt... The P/N was for the 30V...

CARQUEST will have the tensioner and new belt for me today, but I have to work...

Got to work a few minutes ago and wanted to pop the hood to take a look... The hood latch release cable must have come loose since I shut the hood yesterday... Looks like I am going to be spending a few hours trying to pop it...

:banghead:


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

She's alive again... Time to contact the company I ordered the original parts from and get some warranty service... It is tons of fun that I will be doing this again soon... At least she is running.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Good to hear it's up and running, don't count the coins from the warranty refund I've heard more excuses then you would believe on why it's your fault not theirs................


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

*Re: [SOLVED] 1996 Audi No spark*

I haven't even heard back from the retailer yet..

My Verizon mail cleans my inbox regularly, so I have no mail before late December 2012... I was looking for the invoice so I could contact for warranty...

From now on I am using my Microsoft mail account... I never lose emails there.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

Basementgeek said:


> WOW what a job !
> 
> BG


Its a wonderful perk of owning an Audi....

Lets also not forget at 100,000 everything under the sun starts leaking oil.

I do have a question for you Bruce...

I have to do my Audi A6 at round 150,000 miles (Just reached 140,000) and my question is do you own the parts to do the job or do you rent them?

I know of a website that will rent you the entire toolkit to do the job. Belt and everything. It was recommended to me by another Audi driver from work.

This is my first German car so my German parts found in my garage are low. Just a few months ago I had to buy an entire screw driver set for just one screw driver :nonono:.


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

*Re: [SOLVED] 1996 Audi No spark*

You can do the job with a standard set of tools... Let me see if I can remember the tools that are needed offhand...

T-20 Torx
T-25 Torx
T-35 Torx
10mm Socket
10mm Box Wrench
13mm Socket
13mm Box Wrench
17mm Socket
24mm Wrench (To remove the fan cluch from the pulley)
22mm (I think) 12pt Socket
5mm Allen Key and/or socket
6mm Allen Key and/or socket
8mm Allen Key and/or socket
Rubber Mallet


I suggest removing the front end/radiator support...


Disconnect the battery.

Remove the splash guard (Skid guard) from under the bumper/engine.

Remove the bumper 
Remove the trim panels from the lower part of the bumper (left and right). If your car has fog lights, remove them. There is a 6mm Allen fastener on each side that holds the bumper to the mounts. Remove the fasteners that attach the inner fender shield to the bumper cover. Once the fasteners are removed, push the bumper in as far as it will go, push down on the side of the bumper cover (where it is attached to the fender) and pull out to disengage it from the clips. Pull it out and then off the car. The headlight washer line has a small plastic clip that holds it together. Pull the clip out and separate the lines.

Remove the headlights
If you have one piece headlights, there are 3 fasteners securing them to the front clip. Two on top and one accessible through an access hole.
If you have two piece headlights, remove the side marker lights to access the third fastener.

Drain the coolant.
The petcock is located on the front driver side of the radiator. Remove the coolant reservoir cap and open the petcock. Drain the coolant into a clean pan. It can be reused.

Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses. There is a metal clip that needs to be pulled out, then the hoses can be removed... It is not easy to do, especially if the hoses have been connected for a long time... Just be patient and work at it until they come off.

Disconnect the electrics. 
The horns need to be disconnected from the harness directly. The alarm switch located on the front of the radiator also needs to be directly disconnected. The rest of the connections from front can be disconnected from the junction located next to the power steering reservoir (under the plastic cover).

Disconnect the hood release cable and put it out of the way.

Remove the fasteners holding the radiator support on the car.
There are 12 fasteners... Two under the hood to the fender. One on each side attached to the fenders and four on each bumper mount. There is no need to remove the 10mm nuts from the bumper mounts. They only hold them to the front clip. They can stay attached and will help you line up the front when reinstalling.

Pull the front clip away from the car a small amount and reach down to remove the electrical connector from the bottom of the radiator. Make sure that all the wires that need to be are removed from the retention clips (The hood switch to name one)

Pull the front end away from the car. Set it up on something if necessary... The AC lines will still be connected... Be careful not to over stress them.

Now that you have complete access to the front of the car, it will make your job easier... It only takes about 20 minutes to remove the front end and will save you much headache.

Now to access the timing assembly...


Remove the drive-belt.
Remove the drive-belt tensioner (8mm Allen)
Remove the Fan (4x 10mm bolts)
Remove the left and right timing belt covers.
Remove the fan clutch. (There is a small notch in the bracket. Use a screwdriver or allen key to lock the pulley in place. It is reverse threaded. You may need to tap the wrench with the mallet to break it loose)
Remove the crank pulley. (8x 6mm Allen). Use the 12pt socket to hold it in place while breaking the fasteners. If the pulley doesn't come off easily, tap along the edge with the mallet and work it loose. (You may need to loosen the strap that holds the AC lines to the engine to make room for the pulley to come off).
Remove the lower timing belt cover (2x 10mm bolts)
Using the 12pt socket, set the engine to TDC.
Remove the fan pulley bracket. There are 2 6mm Allen bolts in plain view. There is another 6mm Allen bolt and a 5mm Allen bolt that need to be accessed through the holes in the pulley.


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

*Re: [SOLVED] 1996 Audi No spark*

You know... I forgot to ask... Does yours have the 30V or 12V 2.8???


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: [SOLVED] 1996 Audi No spark*

Wow! Thanks, i'm going to print off your notes so I can save them for later :grin:



> Does yours have the 30V or 12V 2.8???


What do you mean? :grin:

I have a 2002 A6 Quattro 2.7T

 
So I would guess a 12V?


I asked my brother and he said its a 30V.


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

*Re: [SOLVED] 1996 Audi No spark*

Okay... completely disregard my last post... It's only relevant to the B5 body. You have the B6.

Most of the tools you will need will be similar.

I would suggest acquiring the following if you plan on doing most of your maintenance.

Metric Socket Set(s)
Metric Wrench Set (Craftsman Professional are good and not too expensive) 7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18,19,21,22,24
Torx Socket set
Metric Hex Socket set (Allen)
Metric Allen Key set
Good adjustable spanner

Here is a tutorial I found on taking the motor out of a B6... I can't see the pics, but the first two sets of instructions should give you the space needed to access the timing belt assembly.

B6/B7 S4 DIY: Complete Engine Pull Guide


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

*Re: [SOLVED] 1996 Audi No spark*

Here we go... Even better yet... B6 A4

DIY: B6 A4 1.8T - Timing Belt and Water Pump Change

It's the 1.8t... Still looking for your engine.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: [SOLVED] 1996 Audi No spark*

Well my car's chassis is a C5. Also I have a *2002 A6* not an A4 :grin:

By the way my engine is the twin turbocharged V6, same one found in the B5 S4.


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

*Re: [SOLVED] 1996 Audi No spark*



Masterchiefxx17 said:


> Well my car's chassis is a C5. Also I have a *2002 A6* not an A4 :grin:
> 
> By the way my engine is the twin turbocharged V6, same one found in the B5 S4.


Dang it... Back to research... :banghead:

Of all the simple oversights to make...

The procedure should be similar... I can't find anything off-hand though...

How about you bring it around to my place and we can figure it out? :lol:

Unfortunately the most important part of the tutorial was removing the front end so you could access the front of the engine easily.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: [SOLVED] 1996 Audi No spark*



GZ said:


> Dang it... Back to research... :banghead:
> 
> Of all the simple oversights to make...


My brother pointed it out to me! He's like we have a C body not a B. Otherwise I would have said nothing :whistling:.



> The procedure should be similar... I can't find anything off-hand though...
> 
> How about you bring it around to my place and we can figure it out? :lol:
> 
> Unfortunately the most important part of the tutorial was removing the front end so you could access the front of the engine easily.


Maybe if I was stilling living in New Jersey sure! :grin:


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

*Re: [SOLVED] 1996 Audi No spark*

I didn't even realize you posted A6... D'oh!

It's all good! 

To be honest, it is all about the tools and knowing how to use them... Being patient and doing research can eliminate most of the headaches... Be prepared.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: [SOLVED] 1996 Audi No spark*

Yeah, I think we'll (Myself, my brother and Dad) will tackle the belt then.

I printed off your post of the tools/steps and I know if I run into trouble I can always post back here :smile:


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

*Re: [SOLVED] 1996 Audi No spark*

Keep in mind that that is from memory... And my memory is faulty! Unfortunately they don't manufacture that anymore! :rofl:


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: [SOLVED] 1996 Audi No spark*

Here is the website that will let you rent parts or at least buy them

Audi Parts - Vw Parts - Audi Parts Vw Parts Kit Company - Blauparts®

Audi Timing Belt - Audi Timing Belt Kit - Audi Timing Belt Parts


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

*Re: [SOLVED] 1996 Audi No spark*

See... That statement is confusing... I thought you were talking about tools...

As for parts... Its buy only, not rent. I wish I could rent parts! Return them when they fail, like that tensioner pulley! :lol:


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: [SOLVED] 1996 Audi No spark*



> See... That statement is confusing... I thought you were talking about tools...


:lil: I was just posting a website that I would most likely buy the kit from. They sell other Audi items as well. Its a website that I just keep bookmarked.

Its a pretty good price for the kit for my car: Audi A6 Allroad Timing Belt - Audi Allroad Timing Belt Kit


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

*Re: [SOLVED] 1996 Audi No spark*

Here are two companies I have purchased from in the past.

Discount Auto Parts Online -- PartsGeek.com - Domestic & Import Auto Parts Warehouse
RockAuto Parts Catalog

I also use Advance Auto Parts, Napa and CARQUEST...

Advance Auto Parts: Car, Engine, Batteries, Brakes, Replacement, Performance & Accessories
NAPA AUTO PARTS - Home
CARQUEST Auto Parts® - Great people, great products, great prices!

I don't usually purchase parts from AutoZone, but they do have free repair manuals online if you register (free)

AutoZone | Auto Parts & Accessories | Repair Guides & More

I have also known people who have used the following online retailer... But I never have so I cannot vouch for them.

Auto Parts Warehouse | Car Parts & Accessories, Truck Parts, Discount Auto Body Parts Online


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: [SOLVED] 1996 Audi No spark*

I love Advance Auto Parts! Great service and prices.



> I don't usually purchase parts from AutoZone, but they do have free repair manuals online if you register (free)


I gave up with AutoZone as Advanced is just so much better. I will however go get the manuals.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

*Re: [SOLVED] 1996 Audi No spark*

The Gates kits are the ones I use>Gates TCKWP297B Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump : Amazon.com : Automotive


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

*Re: [SOLVED] 1996 Audi No spark*

Okay... Let me tell you about my recent experience with eBay seller Directautowarehouse...

Amazing... They, not only, took my word without question about the failed components, the contact, Rich (Probably owner) offered to send me a replacement kit without charge on the trust that I would return the faulty components... The new kit is on it's way and should be here Friday. 

I cannot say enough, this has been the most pleasant experience that I have ever had dealing with a retailer.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

*Re: [SOLVED] 1996 Audi No spark*

So now you have to go find another Audi that needs a timing belt?


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

*Re: [SOLVED] 1996 Audi No spark*



Wrench97 said:


> So now you have to go find another Audi that needs a timing belt?


:lol:

No... I still need to replace the Idler pulley and, while I am in there, might as well do the Water Pump again. Then I will keep the tensioner and timing belt as spares, just in case!


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

*Re: [SOLVED] 1996 Audi No spark*

Gonna resurrect this ancient thread... Lol.

Guess what... I am replacing the timing belt again! :grin:

This time it didn't fail catastrophically... I am performing an overhaul to the motor and noticed bluing on the idler pulley and little pocks in the smooth side of the timing belt... Checked the idler pulley, tensioner pulley and water pump... Water pump is grabbing, bearing in the idler is shot and the tensioner seems fine. Oh well, this time I went with a gates kit. :grin:


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

I've been seeing a lot bad out of the box or failure soon after install on off brand components especially on fuel pumps and sensors/actuators.


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

On a positive note, it has been 2 years, almost to the day... And about 40k miles. give or take. It was getting close to time. 

Seems like only yesterday this happened though. lol.


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## Panther063 (Jul 13, 2009)

I'll second Gates as a reputable brand.
I had used them previously on performance cars I built.
I would expect another 100,000K's from the timing belt.


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

I change my timing belt religiously every 60k. It was just an expenditure I wasn't thinking about when I started the overhaul... But in retrospect. Probably best it's done now anyhow, just like the clutch. 

Still waiting for the short block and heads to come back from the machinist. It's really starting to irk me... Next weekend will mark 4 weeks he has had my block. Last update I got was that my heads were stripped and the block was going in the dip this weekend. D'oh.

On a positive note, this gave me the time to have the (aluminum) valve covers powder coated... And I am NOT happy with the finish... But it is good enough since 80% of the visible motor is covered by plastics. 

I also had time to clean and prep all the parts for the engine. Just finished cleaning the plastics today. 

Couple more items to pick up and I should be good to go... 5 quarts of 5/30 for break in and 5 quarts of 5/30 full synthetic for it's first oil change. Also need to get a gallon or two of G13. 

This overhaul has cost me about $1100 so far, and that's not paying for the machine work. Lol.


2x Bosal Catalytic Converters
Bosch O2 sensor
LUK Clutch Kit
Gates Timing Kit with Water Pump
Oil Pan
Valve Covers
Timing belt cover plastics
Elring Klinger Top end gasket set
VR Head Bolt Set (TTY)
VR Upper and Lower oil pan gaskets
Throttle body seals and Injector O rings
A/C O Rings
Powder Coating for Valve Covers
NGK WIres and Plugs
Bosch Cam Position Sensor

I think that fully lists the expenditures for this job so far. lol

Doesn't help that I also dropped $1k on a new bicycle... But I figured it was time to treat myself to something nice. 

Hopefully my motor will be back by weeks end and I can get to reassembly and installation....


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## Midnight Tech (Dec 31, 2001)

G13? Pentosin?
And we need pics of the new bicycle!


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

Yeah. I am pretty sure that AUDI uses Pentosin... I am not quite certain, but... If I am not mistaken, Pentosin G13 is Purple in color... Same as the VW/Audi branded G13 coolant...

What was running in my car was G11 (Orange-ish Red). But since the motor is getting a full on overhaul, I completely flushed the rest of the cooling system and I am going to use G13 instead. 


And... As requested, see attached photo.



Midnight Tech said:


> G13? Pentosin?
> And we need pics of the new bicycle!


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Where's the motor on that thing?:grin:


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Why are you using synthetic oil? Is that what the owners manual calls for ?

BG


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

Wrench97 said:


> Where's the motor on that thing?:grin:


Attached to my torso... Lol. A whole whopping 2 leg power!



Basementgeek said:


> Why are you using synthetic oil? Is that what the owners manual calls for ?
> 
> BG


I am using synthetic because it is better, all around. Better lubrication properties, more consistent lubrication properties, resists sludging and break-down. Lasts longer and is better for the motor, all around. The spec for the motor only calls for oil weight (in my case 5w30). The only reason I am using mineral oil for break in is because I don't want to waste the money on synth when I am going to be changing the oil after only 500miles.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Well that and using synthetic will actually slow down the break in process.............


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## Midnight Tech (Dec 31, 2001)

Disc brakes, carbon fiber wheels...I am drooling...


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

Midnight Tech said:


> Disc brakes, carbon fiber wheels...I am drooling...


No carbon fiber wheels. I wish I had that kind of dough! They would cost as much as the entire bike!

Instead of me listing the entire spec sheet... Here is a link...

Airborne Bicycles . Seeker

Swapped out the saddle for a Bontrager wide saddle. Added a seat post mounted luggage rack. Bike weighs in at just over 30lbs with everything on it. (except me, of course). Not bad for a MTB in it's price range.

Did a lot of research before I settled on this bike. It was about $200 less expensive than a Trek with very similar specs and about $250 cheaper than a GIANT I was looking at.

Did a lot of research on the company... Found out they were based in Ohio... They just recently returned to the market financially backed by Huffy. I have read a ton of good stuff about the company... The only thing I don't like is (like 99% of Bike companies) they outsource production to China. 

Beside that, the build quality is excellent, the welds are good. The extruded aluminum frame is super light, especially for it's size, and it comes with a pretty impressive spec sheet for it's price. 

So far I am absolutely happy about my purchase.


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

So. The overhaul is FINALLY done! One week (approximately) of my time spent with removal, disassembly, reassembly, installation and troubleshooting... And 4 months of waiting for the machinist...

Total cost ended up just around $2k. $300 for the machine work, and I had to purchase the internal parts on top of that. 

A few roadblocks and speed bumps, but she is running like a champ. MIL is off, no DTCs... Now it's time to focus on the other issues the car has... Especially the brake/traction control system which took a beating from sitting...

A LOT of rain, and all sorts of foliage growing up around my wheels wreaked havoc on my rotors... Rotors/pads are a must now... Need to fix a wheel speed sensor and I should be back in business.

Need to get the dashboard buttoned back up and troubleshoot the Air Bag system fault... Don't have VCDIS... So I am trying to figure out how to read/reset the airbag computer without it.

My biggest, pressing, issue right now is the Emergency Brake Warning Light Switch... It is currently sitting loose under the center console. It was pulled out of place when I was having the original issue that prompted this thread... My buddy came down while I was working, and couldn't get the OBD scanner attached to my port, so had to remove the console and the socket to attach the scanner... When he did that, he must have pulled the switch loose...

I can't, for the life of me, figure out how it attaches to actuate... I am usually very good at this stuff, but it is not obvious! I am close to making a trip to the junkyard JUST to locate the switch mounting position on my car. Rotflmao.

I do have a few other issues I may want help for... One of them is my coolant level sensor... I had to replace the coolant reservoir because it was old and brittle, and cracked. I couldn't find one for my car (one year only hybrid between the new A4 style using the 90 style sensor). The original sensor creates a closed circuit when fluid levels are low... The new sensor is the opposite... So my idiot light and alarm sound when the levels are correct, and stop when they get low... ATM I have the switch disconnected...

I was thinking, as a temporary solution, wiring a relay that opens a circuit when power is applied... Running voltage through the level switch so when it closes, it applies voltage to the relay and opens the circuit that is read by the ECM... Does anyone know a relay that will do this? It is only a stop-gap measure until I locate a compatible reservoir... Unfortunately the switch is molded into the reservoir, so I can't just swap them.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Your standard 5 prong relay has a NC and a NO terminal but if coolant usage is not a problem I just disconnect it.


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

Wrench97 said:


> Your standard 5 prong relay has a NC and a NO terminal but if coolant usage is not a problem I just disconnect it.


You are absolutely right... I didn't even think about that... D'oh. My mind was wrapped around relays designed for a specific purpose.

Right now it is disconnected, BUT... The motor is fresh, and although there are no apparent leaks and I don't seem to be losing any water (going to flush and add G13 at my 500 mile oil change) I still want that early warning of a potential failure...

Thanks, as always, Wrench... For a quick and concise jarring of the old brain muscle. Lol.


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## GZ (Jan 31, 2010)

If it isn't one thing it's another, right? Rotflmao.

last night I went out with my friend Jamie... She was tipsy so I followed her home to make sure she got there safely... Car stalled out as I was parallel parking... and when I went to start it, the starter just went *click*. 

Checked the voltage at the battery, and the connection (even though there was no dimming of interior or dash lights)... I have to tear the front end off the car and remove the alternator to get at the starter. lol. 

Funny thing... Half an hour later, it turned over and started, and hasn't hiccupped since...

I am going to let it go for a little bit... Still have to go over the brakes (sitting for 4 months wreaked havoc on the rotors... Vegetation grew up around the brake system.) The rear passenger pads delaminated... I am tempting fate by driving the car ATM, but I need to get to work. New rotors and pads are on their way... ETA... Not soon enough. lol.

New scanner should be in on Thursday then I can scan the Air Bag system and hopefully repair the fault and reset the light. ABS will have to wait until after I get paid to have a new bearing pressed in the old hub and install a new wheel sensor...

That should wrap up the major systems... 

Been having issues with my gauges going wonky... The new scanner can scan the instrument cluster... So I am hoping it can test the gauges and perhaps give me some insight as to what is going on there...

Probably a coincidence, but when my car finally started last night, the oil temp gauge went wonky (erratic movement across the entire range) whenever I blipped the throttle... Hopefully I won't have to chase down any AUDI electrical gremlins...


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