# 98 Ram / 46re Problem(s)



## shultz53 (Sep 6, 2009)

Hi all, noob here... 1st, just can't believe all the great advise and expertise coming from this forum! AND how the expertise covers from PCs to Mac Trucks! Crazy, but so appreciated!
If I may impose on you, a sort of lengthy explanation of my issue.
OK, my Dodge Tranny problem has led me to several forums, but googled and got here, and was reading I believe a user OleMiss74? on his tranny issues, and the exhaustive efforts by other users to help out, and I was wayyy impressed!
Here's my deal: 2wd Ram 1500, remanned tranny with about 30k, sitting behind a remanned 360, both installed same time by me.
Tranny started intermittent, what I call slipping a few months back, not changing gears smoothly without some manual coaxing with the gas pedal or shifter. Truck will not make it past 30 mph now, either due to slippage, or just not shifting out of 2nd? RPMS are 35k and it's like there is NO Torque Converter at all! (my son drives this truck) 
I checked the fluid level (proper method) and it looked good. Next, without my knowledge, my son sticks a quart of some "stop slip" stuff in the tranny!
Knowing how quirky the 46re is about fluid type, figured soon we would have a full breakdown,,,which is where we are!
Don't know anything about transmissions, so getting all the info online I can, led me to changing out the sensor on the tail of the trans, can't remember what that one is called? Anyway, no real change! Oh, and the speedo has and still works from 0.. I understand "no speedo" until like 35mph leads to another sensor issue, so thought I would mention it still works.
Other forums have led me to (which I have not done yet) taking off the pan and looking for a clogged sceen on the Governor Pressure Solenoid. 
And THIS is where I was hoping to get some additional advice.
Intsead of dropping the pan, cleaning out the GPS screen and simply reinstalling, hoping this would solve the problem, shouldn't I be as concerned about the additive my son put in the tranny and getting IT out?
Meaning, want the gunk inside the tranny just clog up the GPS screen again unless there is a flushing or something to get that crap out of there?
Please let me know what you think. I believe there was an issue BEFORE my son put in the additive, and that the additive only added to the problem?
In my way of thinking, I need to get the trans back to "clean" first, then maybe put in a new GPS, or whatever else it may need?
Or am I wayyy off on this, and maybe it needs a new Torque Converter?
Like Shultz always said on Hogans Heroes,,,I Know Nothing!
Thanks in advance for reading my rant, and for your time, questions and suggestions...


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

Hi shultz53

After reading your post and evaluating the possibilities, the prognosis on the transmission so far are not in your favor. Here's why: The internal components of typical automatic transmission consists of; Planetary gears, clutch plates & bands and hydraulic servos. When driving, the transmission fluid builds pressure to activate the servos to either engage or disengage the clutch bands, that bind around a hub that contain the clutch plates and planetary gears. This builds allot of heat, the heat and stress on the transmission that mostly come from the stop and go situations in traffic jams. This is what causes the most damage, and it is why it's recommended that when idling in traffic for more than 2 min is to put the car in low gear or in neutral. 

The problem you are describing on your transmission can be attributed to either a bad vacuum modulator or worn out clutch bands. On older automatic transmissions, there were adjustments made to the clutch bands every so often due to heavy loads. When the transmission begins to slip, adding additives at times make the problem worse because the detergents within the additive are not compatible with the band material and it eats away at the clutch bands and plates. To flush out the system now would be an exorcise in futility, the gunk has spread throughout the internal components and your only option now is to have it completely rebuilt. 

post back your findings.


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## shultz53 (Sep 6, 2009)

Thanks for the explanation Octaneman, helps alot,,, If your prognosis is correct, then I question why the tranny operates somewhat close to normal once everything cools down? (less contaminated fluid being circulated through critical internals)?
This is something I failed to mention, but does in fact happen. After putting in the one sensor mentioned in my first post, it was a good 5 or so hours before my son test drove the truck, (tranny cold) after test drive, back home and excitedly tells me the part must have fixed the truck, working normally.
Now, after HIS test drive (truck warm) we both took it out, and within 5 minutes or so, tranny reverted back to high rev, non shift...
Next day, cold tranny, drive a few miles with truck basically shifting normally, then acting up, again once heated? 
Isn't there some sort of block or inactivity of OD or other functions of the tranny until preset temps are reached? Not sure this would have any effect on 2/3 mile trip anyway?
In my limited deduction, seems while additive gunk has obviously made it's way onto all parts, internals may still be operating properly after cool down, (gunk/additive not actively circulating, laying in pan) and then once fully circulated after about 10 minutes, begins to clog up critical ports and disables normal ops? If you follow me?
Just seems that if clutches, bands or other critical parts are ruined, then cold or hot, tranny would function in the same manner?
Please know that I am not second guessing your knowledge, simply making sure I make all the symptoms known prior to pronouncing my beloved tranny deceased Not to mention the cost of burial these days... 
Thanks again for your time and reply, hope you have a great Labor Day!


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

Shultz53

You're concern is well noted.
If I were in your position I'd like to get all the facts as well before consigning the transmission to that big dealership in the sky. Replacing one or two components, may give you the impression the transmission is fixed, but it isn't. In troubleshooting anything mechanical or electronic, this phenomenon known as a false positive. The primary objective of the additive is to limit the friction that causes parts to fail. Metal expands and contracts due to temperature changes, so when the transmission is cold the components are in their normal state causing the transmission to operate as if everything is normal. But, when heat is generated by friction, the components expand to the limit of their tensile strength and with the added stress of motion the components simply break down. Varnish and Metal filings are often found in the bottom of transmission pans, that is why all transmission pans have a magnet permanently set inside it, to collect the shavings from blocking vital ports and oil galleries.It is the metal shavings that block ports that starve the transmission of oil. In some service centers, there is a test done on the transmission fluid to determine it's metallic content, in this way the technician can estimate the state of the transmission before it permanently breaks down. When all things are said and done the bottom line is this: It doesn't matter if the fluid is hot or cold. Once the transmission begins to slip, it's time for a re-build.


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Gonna go with octaneman..... no sense putting off the inevitable. From what I have read, the 46re is prone to failure. A competent rebuilder will have the tech bulletins or know the fixes that are required to improve the initial design. With many trannies there are required modifications to increase service life and improve general characteristics. 

The use of additives is something I will not recommend, especially with newer trannies. ATF of a specific type is required in most trannies or you will damage it or cause undesirable operation. My son put an additive in an older ('95) Ford van and quickly developed "Over-drive shudder" at highway speed. The additive caused a problem that was fixed by flushing the tranny and filling with Mercon V. OD shudder (with an E40D ) was a common problem in those years even without using an additive... my van developed the problem at 50k and I never used anything other than ATF..... actually I never had to put any fluid in it. It had the same fluid that came in it. Ford's fix was a new type ATF.....Mercon V verses Mercon IV. Long story short....if you want trouble use an additive.


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## shultz53 (Sep 6, 2009)

Hey Octaneman & SABL, thanks for both of your replies.. 
I appreciate your calming my fears of (1) being told by someone who only wants my money, that my tranny is toast! and (2) not knowing whether or not he is telling the truth!
I believe with the indepth explanation and expert concurrence I can now put the ol girl down with some assurance that she is in fact not just mearly dead,,, she's really most sincerely dead! (line from Wizard of Oz) sorry.
So now we look for someone comp to rebuild, or try and luck out (they sell quickly)finding a decent used one with not too many miles, but cost less than a rebuild?
Either way, I really appreciate your taking time to assist me with this and trust we will again meet in this forum, for I have some (6) used vehicles I continue to nurture along..
Shultz53


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