# Can of Compressed Air Questions



## Azurax598 (Feb 4, 2021)

Hello

I'd like to try cleaning my PCs using can of compressed air (ordered one and is already on the way) and want to move to my old ways of using cotton buds/cotton swaps, tissue paper + electric fan (lol)

The can that I ordered is:









However I have a couple of questions

What happens if the liquid in the can comes into contact with any of the PC parts? Do I need to clean it off and wait for it to completely dry? Or is it something that takes a long time to be removed or dry off?

If there is moisture coming out of the spray, I should stop using it completely?

What liquid is usually used in can of compressed air? Does the liquid that each manufacturer use vary? 

I've also seen "Electronic" air dusters as of late. Can they be safely used in cleaning the insides of a PC? Are these preferable over can of compressed air (because these completely eliminate the chance of liquid pouring out of the can)?


----------



## kendallt (Feb 21, 2007)

Normally it's a hydrofluorocarbon refrigerant, same as used in air conditioners but without the lubricant used in AC units. It evaporates very quickly, and leaves no residue, so no waiting time. 
There shouldn't be any liquid coming out unless the can is held upside down. 
The only real concern is that you have plenty of airflow so the vapors can disperse easily.

The problem with many of the small blowers/dusters is that they don't always have enough airflow to do a good job. 

I use an air compressor and take the computer outside to blow it out, mostly because I hate the smell of those things.


----------



## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

Keep can vertical and use short bursts.


----------



## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

Tip: Spinning a fan faster than it was designed to spin can ruin the fan bearings. 

So, before you start, insert something like a pencil, popsicle stick, toothoothpick into each of the fans to keep the blades from spinning while you're using the compressed air.


----------



## Rich-M (May 2, 2007)

No real reason to expect liquid damage but I always suggest as mentioned above to use short bursts to avoid that.


----------



## Bill_Bright (Dec 17, 2004)

First, it is not compressed "air". As kendallt noted, it is a refrigerant chemical, often difluoroethane or a similar gas. These can be extremely hazardous if inhaled. In extreme cases, it can damage the central nervous system, or even be fatal. So use in a well ventilated area or better yet, outside. Note in some jurisdictions, these are controlled substances and sold in a controlled manner, similar to how cans of spray paint are sold to [hopefully] dissuade abuse through “huffing”.

The danger of tilting the can when spraying and spewing out liquid gas is primarily frostbite to the fingers. If that super-cold liquid hits a "hot" component, it could, in extreme cases, cause it to crack or even shatter. But this scenario is unlikely since the few minutes between shutting down the computer and opening up the side panel before spraying is more than enough time for the components inside to cool down sufficiently. Obviously, don't spray on energized electronics - which is common sense (I hope and assume) anyway. 

FTR, I use an upright air compressor and a soft, natural bristle paint brush in (or rather, outside) my shop to clean electronics of heat trapping dust. HOWEVER - there are special considerations that MUST be adhered to when using an air compressor on electronics.

The compressing process WILL create condensation inside the tank. This condensation collects on the walls of the tank, then runs down to the bottom. If allowed to build up, nasty, rusty water particles can be spewed onto your electronics - never good. So periodic draining is required and all air compressors have a petcock valve on the bottom of the tank for this purpose.

Keeping the pool of nasty stuff drained does not ensure a clean blast of compressed air. So ALWAYS - as in EVERY SINGLE TIME - use a inline moisture and particulate filter when cleaning electronics (or air-brush painting birthday cakes or faces).

I prefer upright compressors to keep any condensation way down at the bottom.

Natural brushes are typically made of hog or badger hair. They are soft but more importantly, there's less chance of static build up and ESD than with synthetic bristles. 

Ensure the compressor is an "oil-less" type (most for homes and small shops are).

As mentioned above, never see how fast you can make a fan spin - you can easily exceed design limits and destroy the bearings (I use wooden glue/Popsicle sticks to hold the blades stationary).

Either way, if you use the air compressor or cans of dusting gas, do it outside. No need to blast that heat-trapping dust, pet hair, cookie crumbs, dander, microscopic critters that eat that dander, and the microscopic "stuff" those critters "excrete"  back into your room, computer, or eyes, nose and lungs.


----------



## Rich-M (May 2, 2007)

Excellent points Bill I too use a small compressor and natural paint brushes in shop though I do carry cans in the field for convenience and did not realize how dangerous those cans really are. Thanks for that Bill nothing subtle about what you offer here and that's great!


----------



## Bill_Bright (Dec 17, 2004)

Rich-M said:


> though I do carry cans in the field


Me too. 


Rich-M said:


> Thanks for that Bill nothing subtle about what you offer here and that's great!


LOL Typically, I get criticized for not being subtle enough, often accused of being arrogant and brash. But having spent a few decades in and around deadly voltages, you learn subtlety can lead to misunderstanding - and mistakes, or worse.  So even if the voltages inside a computer are not deadly, damage to expensive equipment can still occur. 

That said, anything that plugs into the wall can kill! And PSUs plug into the wall. Some seem to forget (or ignore) that fact.


----------



## Rich-M (May 2, 2007)

Yeah especiall Psus as they hold voltage even when unplugged for a time!


----------



## Bill_Bright (Dec 17, 2004)

Rich-M said:


> Yeah especiall Psus as they hold voltage even when unplugged for a time!


Yeah - they aren't supposed to as any residual voltages are supposed to drain off and decay to safe potentials quickly. But if faulty (or a really poor design), the big filter caps can still pack a wallop that will get your attention real quick - not that I can speak from any experience there!


----------



## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

I like fan filters but some believe they cause heat. A clean house = a clean computer. Also some cases have a bottom trap which needs to be dumped.


----------



## bassfisher6522 (Jul 22, 2012)

Have you guys thought about getting one of these........XPower Duster. 


https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Airrow-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B01BI4UQK0?ref_=ws_cp_3460144e464316171290_p_4_t_p



I'll be getting one in the next month or so......can't wait.


----------



## bassfisher6522 (Jul 22, 2012)

Corday said:


> I like fan filters but some believe they cause heat. A clean house = a clean computer. Also some cases have a bottom trap which needs to be dumped.


I couldn't agree more....that's why I use 2 HoneyWell Air purifiers: Honeywell HFD-120-Q QuietClean Tower Air Purifier, Permanent Washable Filters | Honeywell Store
in conjunction with regular AC filter changes and cleanings. I use permanent air filters....an upfront expense but pays for it self in 6 months. Permanent filters in the AC and the Air Purifiers.


----------



## Bill_Bright (Dec 17, 2004)

Corday said:


> I like fan filters but some believe they cause heat.


They don't cause heat but they can restrict air flow which can allow heat to build up. But not all filters are created equal. A "good" filter is excellent at trapping dust while letting the maximum amount of air flow through. 

And a quality case will use large (at least 120mm, preferably 140mm) fans with filters sized to match. Yeah, some have bottom filters for cases with bottom mount PSUs. Never seen one with a "trap" that needs dumped. All that I have seen are filters and the bottom is typically an intake so the PSU can pull in cool outside air instead of warm internal air. So you just wash the filter as you would front mounted filters. 

I won't own a case without removable washable air filters. I don't like breaking down my computers to lug them outside to blast with my air compressor. Over the last several years all our builds have been with Fractal Design cases. Excellent filters, excellent cooling options, and they have sound deadening linings so typically, the only way I know fans are running is by feeling for air movement.  Even when the system is tasked and the fans ramp up in speed, the fan noise is minimal and that's good, because I hate fan noise. I mean I _really_ hate fan noise. 

In the olden days when there were 2 dogs shedding dander and doghair, and 2 rugrats running around stirring up dust, I had to take my old unfiltered computers outside 2 - 3 a year. Switching to filtered cases and it was 1/year and even then, the insides were not bad. Now, with an empty nest, it is maybe once every 2 years. 

I just keep Core Temp running in my system tray and when I see my temps stay up higher than normal for more than a couple seconds, I know it is time to wash my filters. 

Yes, a clean house makes a huge difference when people and pets are running around and stirring up dust. But if dust was not a problem, you really wouldn't have to clean/dust the house and furniture, right? My point, is dust is inevitable no matter how diligent at cleaning you are. 

So there are many variables that have nothing to do with how clean you keep your house - to include the region of the country, the age of the house, age and type carpets and rugs, number and age of occupants (including pets), if AC or open windows, and how often the doors are opened. 

Yes, I have used similar dusters before at work. They work well, but you still need to take the computer outside if you don't want to blow the dust back into the room. The better (and recommended) type, even though more expensive, is the Metro DataVac ESD Safe Electric Duster - Model ED-500 ESD. Despite its name it is not a vacuum. But more importantly, it is specifically designed to use around ESD sensitive devices like CPUs, RAM, and other high-density ICs.


----------



## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

Another vote for Metro DataVac's stuff. Bought my duster in 2013 and it's still going strong.


----------



## sobeit (Nov 11, 2007)

in my area, a couple of times a year, there are news stories about people running off the side of the road or passed out in parking lots with frost bite from can air. It really is something you don't want around the house if you have teenagers that likes to experiment.


----------



## bassfisher6522 (Jul 22, 2012)

Well damn....all this talk about cleaning and blowing out PC's........this half blind guy just did his. LOL! Not to shabby if I say so myself. It took me about 30+ minutes. 

Tools used: 
1. swifter duster for desk (65" long).
2. hand held dust vac (walmart special)
3. Shark Cordless vac (that worked great of keyboard and desk)
4. Works blower (I forgot I had that, hooked the nozzle and she was blown out perfectly)
All the case filters pulled and cleaned. Left side panel (blk tempered glass) and front (blk tempered glass) panel pulled and cleaned. She looks like the day I put it together back in June/July. Yep....not my back is paying for this now.


----------



## Bill_Bright (Dec 17, 2004)

A word of caution about using vacuums to clean computers - particularly the interiors. I do not recommend the use of a vacuum cleaner to clean the inside of a computer case as there is a significant potential for destruction from ESD. As the dust and air particles zoom past the nozzle, many will crash into the nozzle end (especially with plastic nozzles), knocking off free electrons in the valence (outer) shell of the molecules. This can quickly allow extremely high potentials of static electricity to build up in the nozzle end. When the nozzle comes in to close proximity to ESD sensitive devices, that static can easily arc to and be discharged through the device, torching a Grand Canyon size trench (microscopically speaking) through the device, totally destroying it! 

It is not uncommon for those static discharges to be so tiny, they are well below the "threshold of human awareness". That is, the discharge (arc/spark) is so tiny, we, as humans, cannot see, feel or hear that a discharged occurred. But that microscopic lightning bolt is plenty big to destroy those sensitive devices. 

For these reasons, vacuuming is NEVER preferred. Taking the computer outside to blast with compressed air is always better. However, if it is pouring down rain or there are other reasons taking it outside is impractical, you can use a vacuum, but only if EXTRA care, as described below, is taken.

The obvious first - unplug the computer from the wall.

Touch bare metal of the case interior BEFORE reaching in to discharge any static in your body, and most importantly, to put you and the computer "_at the same potential_".

Wrap your hand around the nozzle end and extend a pointed finger out past the nozzle.

Plant that extended finger on to bare metal of the case interior when reaching in with the nozzle to prevent build-up, and then discharge of static. 

Use a clean, soft, natural bristle (not synthetic) dusting or paint brush to gently persuade the dust towards the nozzle.

Keep that finger planted, and immediately replant it onto bare metal when re-positioning the nozzle.

Better yet, wait for it to stop raining, then use an air compressor or cans of dusting gas.
Now keyboards and desks would not be a problem but I would stay clear of any ports and jacks on the case to avoid where electrical contacts appear on the exterior surface of the case.


----------



## kendallt (Feb 21, 2007)

Corday said:


> I like fan filters but some believe they cause heat. A clean house = a clean computer. Also some cases have a bottom trap which needs to be dumped.


I modified my case by using a hole saw to cut two holes in the side to mount fans, then attached an automotive air filter. I mounted the fans to pull air through the filter and into the case. 
I ran it that way for 20 years or more (since w98 days) and never had to clean out the case, and never had overheating issues. 
I only stopped running that filter system when I upgraded the last time, and the CPU cooler was too tall to put the side cover on. 

I live in the middle of the woods on a dirt road, so dust is impossible to keep out of the house.


----------



## Azurax598 (Feb 4, 2021)

Hey guys

I decided to buy an electric duster instead. Its a more economical choice, as I don't need to keep buying gas dusters if it runs out. As mentioned, using the latter has health risks involved such that it becomes a hassle unlike electric dusters. I think in the early 1990s - 2000s this was the more prominent choice to cleaning PCs. The other reason why I kinda switched my mind was because I thought the liquid (if it does accidentally hit your PC components) can stain and is hard to remove, however I may be wrong and that the liquid actually evaporates fast at room temperature as it is a refrigerant. I wasn't also sure if the can of compressed air would leave any residue.



Bill_Bright said:


> As the dust and air particles zoom past the nozzle, many will crash into the nozzle end (especially with plastic nozzles), knocking off free electrons in the valence (outer) shell of the molecules. This can quickly allow extremely high potentials of static electricity to build up in the nozzle end.


Interesting, yet I've seen a lot of youtube videos of people using electric dusters to clean their PC internals without taking the precautions you've mentioned. I will keep this in mind.



Bill_Bright said:


> Plant that extended finger on to bare metal of the case interior when reaching in with the nozzle to prevent build-up, and then discharge of static.


I have an anti static wrist strap, so can I just skip this step while i have the AS wrist strap worn?
This way, I would hold the electric duster by the end of its nozzle on one hand, while my other hand is free and is attached to the AS wrist strap, with its alligator clip attached to the Case or the grille of a PSU.

And yes, its voltage that kills PC Components - for humans it can be both current and voltage that kills us. It only takes around 0.1 amps for it to be lethal. Low voltage to humans can also be lethal, but that will also depend on the point of contact of the human skin using the equation V = I * R (Say if a low voltage of 75 Volts comes into contact with a wet part of human skin which has a lower resistance of 1,000 ohms, you would get 0.075 amps - which is almost enough amps to kill. Having a dry skin would mean higher resistance and thereby less amps would go through your body = higher chance of survival).








Fatal Current


The Fatal Current, Physical Therapy, Volume 46, Issue 9, 1 September 1966, Pages 968–969, https://doi.org/10.1093/ptj/46.9.968




academic.oup.com





I would also be cautious of touching capacitors inside the PC. They're also found inside PSUs. Even if you turned off your PC, they can still be energized and carry a lethal charge. If you do touch it, the V = I * R equation comes into play...


----------



## bassfisher6522 (Jul 22, 2012)

Bill_Bright said:


> A word of caution about using vacuums to clean computers - particularly the interiors. I do not recommend the use of a vacuum cleaner to clean the inside of a computer case as there is a significant potential for destruction from ESD. As the dust and air particles zoom past the nozzle, many will crash into the nozzle end (especially with plastic nozzles), knocking off free electrons in the valence (outer) shell of the molecules. This can quickly allow extremely high potentials of static electricity to build up in the nozzle end. When the nozzle comes in to close proximity to ESD sensitive devices, that static can easily arc to and be discharged through the device, torching a Grand Canyon size trench (microscopically speaking) through the device, totally destroying it!
> 
> It is not uncommon for those static discharges to be so tiny, they are well below the "threshold of human awareness". That is, the discharge (arc/spark) is so tiny, we, as humans, cannot see, feel or hear that a discharged occurred. But that microscopic lightning bolt is plenty big to destroy those sensitive devices.
> 
> ...


Appreciate all that....but I don't vacuum inside a PC nor use the swifter. The vacs/swifter I use are strictly external and never go near my PC. I pull everything off the PC to be vacuumed. I just blow out the interior and then use if needed I use brushes.


----------



## bassfisher6522 (Jul 22, 2012)

kendallt said:


> I live in the middle of the woods on a dirt road, so dust is impossible to keep out of the house.


Get you a couple of those Honeywell Air purifiers. They work wonders and really make a difference in dust control. Get the ones with the permanent filters. Just rinse, dry and reuse but the prefilter needs to be vacuumed/cleaned


----------



## Bill_Bright (Dec 17, 2004)

Azurax598 said:


> Interesting, yet I've seen a lot of youtube videos of people using electric dusters to clean their PC internals without taking the precautions you've mentioned. I will keep this in mind.


Check those videos again. My comments were about vacuums not blowers. Vacuums are different because you have to move the nozzles in closer. And to that, were those videos made by formally trained electronics technicians? Or Joe Schmoe? FWIW, check the link in my sig to see where I'm coming from. 


Azurax598 said:


> I have an anti static wrist strap, so can I just skip this step while i have the AS wrist strap worn?


Yes. No. Maybe. Anti-static wrist straps are very effective *IF* they are properly connected to a common ground on the case, they are properly worn on the wrist, they are in good repair, *AND* they are clean. This latter condition is the stickler. Over time (and in some scenarios, not much time) those straps can become "gummed" up with dirt, dead skin, skin oils, sweat and other contaminates which greatly degrades (increases) their resistance to that wire that is clipped to the chassis. If those conditions are met, then you are fine. 

As far as voltage can kill, it is not just about the voltage potentials or current levels. It is also about the path it takes as it goes through your body. Throughout my tech schools and follow-on training, it was constantly pounded in our heads to keep one hand in our pocket. We humans seem to habitually grab on to something with one hand when poking around with the other. When that grabbing hand is holding on to something that is the least path of resistance to ground, and your inquisitive hand pokes a live circuit, that voltage is going to travel up one arm, through your chest and heart, then out the other arm. That would not be good. 

Also, everyone has a different tolerance level. And if someone has a medical condition, like a bad heart, it may not take much to make a bad situation much worse. 

I used to suffer badly from allergies. I took immunotherapy/allergy shots for 35+ years. And sadly, I passed that gene along to my son. So we used to have several Honeywell HEPA filters in the house. And yes, they make a big difference too. Fortunately, I seem to have finally outgrown most of my allergies, and the allergy shots 5-year regiment worked for my son. My son is grown and out of the house, and all my cases have filters so I no longer need the HEPA filters. And that's good because I really hate fan noise.


----------



## Azurax598 (Feb 4, 2021)

Noted.

I got a little mixed up when you mentioned vacuum cleaners. I took the meaning of the word a bit literal and likened it to an electric duster lol.









This is a vacuum cleaner



> A *vacuum cleaner*, also known simply as a *vacuum* or a *hoover*, is a device that causes suction in order to remove debris from floors, upholstery, draperies and other surfaces











Vacuum cleaner - Wikipedia







en.wikipedia.org













These are electric dusters. Most of them do blow instead of suction. 

Some electric dusters in the market can both do suction and blow off dust.
So is the suctioning of air is the one that can present a potential hazard for which you've mentioned?






Some people use leaf blowers to clean their pc: 




This guy has a completely different opinion with regards to can of compressed air :



(Starts at 1:30)


----------



## sobeit (Nov 11, 2007)

I look at it this way, do what you feel comfortable doing. Every method mentioned has someone who swears by it. There are pros and cons for each and every one of them.


----------



## Bill_Bright (Dec 17, 2004)

I have seen folks use leaf blowers. And believe me, I have seen long-neglected computers that needed that kind of drastic power. But I also have a friend who knocked his computer over and off his picnic table with a leaf blower. Not good. And I have heard of similar stories by others, including where the leaf blower blew debris into the computer. Also not good. 

I recommend sticking with cans of dusting gas or a properly filtered air compressor with a nozzle designed for accurate, easy to control, pin-point blasting.


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Bill_Bright said:


> I recommend sticking with cans of dusting gas or a properly filtered air compressor with a nozzle designed for accurate, easy to control, pin-point blasting.


I have a medical compressor from a dentist's office. That's what I use.....but not many people have access to one of those. It has the same blow nozzle that a dentist uses...perfect!!

I also have a leaf blower that would never be considered.....


----------



## Bill_Bright (Dec 17, 2004)

Traditionally, the dental ones don't go up to the higher PSI pressures as those used for construction and mechanic tasks - they would not normally work for a roofing nail gun for example, or be able to remove lug nuts on a car wheel. And many run through much better air "purification" filters too. And they may include air heaters so they are not blasting cold air on exposed nerve endings so the dentist avoids getting kneed in the head. 

But the couple I have seen will provide 50 - 60PSI or more. And that's plenty for blowing out dust - especially when you can zoom in close with one of those nozzles. I have mine set to 90PSI. As long as I use a wooden Popsicle/glue stick to hold the fan blades stationary, that is not too much pressure.


----------



## Azurax598 (Feb 4, 2021)

I got my electric duster now, sadly it doesn't indicate its PSI. Can't convert CFM to PSI because they are incompatible units. 

Its specs are:
Blowing Rate - 2.3 m^3/min
No-Load speed: 1300r/min
Rated Input Power: 600W
Rated Voltage 220/240V
Rated Frequency: 50/60 Hz

I would like to know this machine's PSI. According to the newegg video, as long as you could keep the pressure under 100 PSI, then using it to clean the pc should be fine.
All i can do I guess is do some rough extrapolation based on input wattage (although this is totally wrong/inaccurate to calc psi, im just assuming that a lower wattage electric duster will generally output less PSI)



> The *power rating* of motors in electric models ranges from *750–3000 W*; however, most have ratings between *2500 and 3000 W.*


From:






Leaf blower buying guide


Leaf blowers are essential for clearing up leaves and plant debris in your garden. These machines can run on petrol or electricity and can be combined with vacuums and shredders. From variable speed control, to backpack or wheel-mounted models, follow our guide to find the right leaf blower for...




advice.manomano.co.uk




.


----------



## Bill_Bright (Dec 17, 2004)

I see no reason to worry about it. A duster is just not going to have that much pressure - especially since they don't have that narrow a nozzle end to concentrate the air flow anyway. 

But if worried, simply start from 2 - 3 feet away and slowly move in closer until the dust starts flying out. Use a soft brush to loosen any stubborn dust. Frankly, you are more likely to knock something loose with your paws, the brush, or banging the nozzle into something. 

Doing a thorough post-cleaning inspection, pressing on all cable connections, making sure extra cables are tucked out of the way, and nothing is lodge in the fans, etc. is just a routine part of the cleaning process anyway.


----------



## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

PSI will vary with attachments. Higher as air flow gets restricted. No formula for CFM to PSI and temperature has an effect. Typical can of air around 70psi at room temp. To test your unit, strat flow from farther away and move in to effective range.


----------



## Azurax598 (Feb 4, 2021)

Albeit I cannot get a rough estimate, I've asked around on other forums and they say It should generally be under 100 psi for an electric blower like this. It would just make more sense if they also included the PSI specification in general, as it was marketed for use in cleaning sensitive electronics (i.e. clean the inside of your pc). A lot of blowers in the market only indicate cfm.


----------



## Bill_Bright (Dec 17, 2004)

Why does it matter? Are just curious?


----------



## kendallt (Feb 21, 2007)

bassfisher6522 said:


> Get you a couple of those Honeywell Air purifiers. They work wonders and really make a difference in dust control. Get the ones with the permanent filters. Just rinse, dry and reuse but the prefilter needs to be vacuumed/cleaned


Thank you, I'll look into that!

Edit: My current dust control is to use the jeep, or have friends who stop by with 4x4s or quads to tear up the road enough that nobody runs through fast enough to raise dust clouds.


----------



## djbillyd (Jul 25, 2010)

kendallt said:


> Normally it's a hydrofluorocarbon refrigerant, same as used in air conditioners but without the lubricant used in AC units. It evaporates very quickly, and leaves no residue, so no waiting time.
> There shouldn't be any liquid coming out unless the can is held upside down.
> The only real concern is that you have plenty of airflow so the vapors can disperse easily.
> 
> ...


I use an air compressor outside too. I don't trust that other stuff. And they are not going to be responsible for any damage caused by inadvertent liquid spewing all over your stuff!


----------



## Roguecroc (Jan 8, 2009)

Bill_Bright said:


> First, it is not compressed "air". As kendallt noted, it is a refrigerant chemical, often difluoroethane or a similar gas. These can be extremely hazardous if inhaled. In extreme cases, it can damage the central nervous system, or even be fatal. So use in a well ventilated area or better yet, outside. Note in some jurisdictions, these are controlled substances and sold in a controlled manner, similar to how cans of spray paint are sold to [hopefully] dissuade abuse through “huffing”.
> 
> The danger of tilting the can when spraying and spewing out liquid gas is primarily frostbite to the fingers. If that super-cold liquid hits a "hot" component, it could, in extreme cases, cause it to crack or even shatter. But this scenario is unlikely since the few minutes between shutting down the computer and opening up the side panel before spraying is more than enough time for the components inside to cool down sufficiently. Obviously, don't spray on energized electronics - which is common sense (I hope and assume) anyway.
> 
> ...


Hi there 
I have been pulling apart and playing with computers since 1995mand have used compressed air from a compressor with the pressured turned down with out a problem inside the case and on the key bouard,


----------



## seeingthetrth (Dec 27, 2018)

Azurax598 said:


> Hello
> 
> I'd like to try cleaning my PCs using can of compressed air (ordered one and is already on the way) and want to move to my old ways of using cotton buds/cotton swaps, tissue paper + electric fan (lol)
> 
> ...


I tried this and I found that the propellant used in the can was too cold for sensitive PC innards. I use air purifiers and occasionally use my vacuum to blow out the dust.


----------



## ablang (Dec 26, 2007)

Oh wow. I searched for "electric duster" on Amazon and the cheapest one came out starting at $38.
Amazon.com : electric duster


----------



## Bill_Bright (Dec 17, 2004)

djbillyd said:


> And they are not going to be responsible for any damage caused by inadvertent liquid spewing all over your stuff!


No, but I don't see why holding (or trying to hold) anyone responsible for that sort of damage applies here. Every can of dusting gas I have ever seen had clear instructions to "Hold can upright" or something similar. And again, that super cold liquid will not damage the hardware unless you spray it on something really really hot! And that is highly unlikely because the electronic components on the motherboard, expansion cards, etc. will rapidly cool to safe levels within seconds after you power off the computer. By the time you unplug the computer from the wall and open up the case, no way they will be little more than warm. 

So no, the electronics are not too sensitive. And besides, if your can is spewing out liquid, you are holding the can wrong. So common sense says you would quickly level out the can or simply stop spraying. 



Roguecroc said:


> compressor with the pressured turned down


Well, you didn't specify the PSI you turned it down too, so we don't really know what that means. All I can say is my first career as an electronics tech was maintaining air traffic control radio communications systems for the USAF and US Navy. Every shop I worked in for 24 years had a compressed air system piped in to each workbench and on the outside of the building too. We had fixed (not on wheels) commercial size (~60 - 80 gallon) air compressors set to 90PSI. 90PSI is pretty standard in electronics repair facilities and there never was an issue where too much force caused any problems - as long as no one tried to see how fast they could make a cooling fan spin. Just backing out the nozzle as little as 3 - 6 inches greatly reduces the amount of pressure hitting the device you are cleaning. Not to mention most nozzles are variable anyway - depending on how hard/far you squeeze the trigger handle. 

When I retired from the AF and went to work as a hardware tech in a large software development company we used a 20 gallon portable air compressor. When I retired the second time and started up my own shop out of my home, I use an air compressor here too. 

As long as you have an appropriate moisture and particulate filter, and you regularly drain the condensation from the tank, there's no problem using them on electronics. 

Frankly, I think every home owner should have an air compressor. The first time you wake up to a flat tire, you will be glad you have it.


----------



## oldtreker (Aug 3, 2014)

After the computer has been unplugged for a hour I use a home vacuum with the brush attached and a small paint brush to remove any accumulated dust. Never had any problems afterwards


----------



## sobeit (Nov 11, 2007)

seeingthetrth said:


> I tried this and I found that the propellant used in the can was too cold for sensitive PC innards. I use air purifiers and occasionally use my vacuum to blow out the dust.


that is why you use short bursts when using can air.


----------



## Bill_Bright (Dec 17, 2004)

oldtreker said:


> After the computer has been unplugged for a hour I use a home vacuum with the brush attached and a small paint brush


Why wait - especially an hour? If worried about some residual voltages still being present, that is not necessary. The primary concern about residual voltages are in the power supply where high (line) voltages (115/230) may still reside in the large filter caps. But power supplies are designed to quickly bleed those voltages off so they decay to safe potentials within seconds. And since you would not be opening the power supply case and be exposed to the contacts of those filters, it is even less a concern. 

And once a computer is powered off, any elevated temperatures quickly drop to safe levels too. 

Frankly, if the concern is with residual voltages, the best procedure would be to power off the computer, flip the master power switch on the back of the power supply to "0" or Off, then leave the power cord plugged in! Don't unplug it until you are ready to open up the computer case and start cleaning. 

If you leave the power cord plugged in, the direct path to "Earth" ground remains thus absolutely ensuring any residual voltages fully discharge. 

If your wall outlet is improperly wired and there is no direct path to Earth ground, there is still no need to wait more than 30 - 60 seconds after removing power and even that is playing it safe. Any residual voltages will quickly bleed off, dissipate and decay to harmless levels. Just remember to touch bare metal of the case interior before reaching in. This will put you and the computer "at the same potential" thus preventing any static electricity from jumping from you (or the vacuum nozzle) to the computer's "common" or chassis ground through an ESD sensitive device like the CPU or memory module.


----------

