# Condensation



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

This is the final straw. -31°C outside combined with a poorly insulated 35 year old home and you've got this lovely condensation happening in about 3-4 rooms (photo is my room). Gonna discuss with the rest of the family to sell this home. Too much renovation needed for me...


----------



## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

Since you're a "do it yourselfer": How to Hook a Dehumidifier to Your Furnace | eHow


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

My bad for even posting this thread. Naturally your guys' instinct is to try to help but it was more intended as an 'I don't care anymore' thread. I've already seen various methods to fix the issue but the point is that the renovations needed to put this home in working order considerably outweigh the work anyone here is capable of putting in, both on the physical/time and financial levels. 

It's just not worth it anymore.

Edit: to the those that haven't been following me around the forum, this may seem trivial and not sufficient to want to sell a home but there are many jobs that have pilled up and as a young teen, I just don't have the resources to keep it afloat anymore.


----------



## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

One problem is the issues are going to affect the price to the buyer. Also, you might still have to fix things to meet code in order to sell.


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Yes, but meeting code to sell would still be less work than renovating everything.


----------



## Flight Sim Guy (Dec 19, 2011)

Is it an actual house or a mobile/modular home/trailer?


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Triplex. I was given ownership when my dad moved out. Live here with my mom and two older sisters. They have shares in the home as well but as the only man, all work falls on me. My choice to join TSF and learn about home repair was not motivated by curiosity but mere necessity and obligation.


----------



## Flight Sim Guy (Dec 19, 2011)

Oh, okay. I was gonna say if it's a mobile home the best thing to do once it starts coming apart is donate it to your local fire department for practice. :laugh:


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

lol! I'll keep that in mind if ever I downgrade


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Could possibley be corrected with the use of a flat latex paint not a semi gloss, but a lot of sanding would be required. If the insulation is moist, not much you can do sort of ripping out the walls.

BG


----------



## kendallt (Feb 21, 2007)

When you have a lot of condensation, the very first step is to determine where the moisture is coming from. At minus 31, it is not atmospheric humidity, Something in the house is dumping moisture. 

Make sure all the 'vapor' producers are operating correctly and vented as they should be. 
Washer running on 'hot', dryer incorrectly vented, dishwasher, cooking, long hot showers etc all dump tons of moisture in the air.

Make sure everything that should be is ventilated outside, and install an exterior vent in laundry rooms, bathrooms and kitchens. When doing laundry, cooking doing dishes, or showering turn on the vent fan. 

If your house is 'tight' and well sealed, you could be just recycling the same moisture laden air, and moisture continuously builds up. A tight house is nice, but condensation is seldom a problem in a drafty house! 

Another issue you may or may not notice other than the furnace running more often, is that the moisture will build up in the insulation as well, reducing it's effectiveness and increasing the heat bill.


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Well this picture is in my room and there is no dryer or fan in there. Don't see where the humidity can be coming, if the humidity is what's causing the condensation.


----------



## WereBo (Apr 5, 2008)

Do you sleep with the door closed and the room cool i.e. just little or no heating?

If so, leave the door ajar slightly, to allow the air to circulate - I have the same problem in the morning, if Mrs WereBo closes the bedroom-door when she comes to bed after me, at night.


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

I SLEep withe room heated to 22C and the door closed. All others do this to their rooms too and have no condensation.


----------



## WereBo (Apr 5, 2008)

In that case it's definitely not you causing the condensation (breath, sweat etc.) - All I can suggest is what folks above have posted, as appropriate for your home :sigh:


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Any chance that there is/was a water leak above the room?

Some insulation when it gets damp or wet takes for ever, if ever, to dry out

BG


----------



## ebackhus (Apr 21, 2005)

How about cutting a small port or hole near the ceiling and blowing in some additional insulation? The place looks quite cool but also hold so any insulation that was there may have collapsed. If it weren't such an undertaking I'd recommend removing the other walls and slapping some moisture barriers up in addition to insulation.


----------



## kendallt (Feb 21, 2007)

What is different about the wet and dry rooms? 
What do the wet rooms have in common? 
Draw up a floor plan of each floor, does not have to be 100% accurate, mark out the wet rooms, the wettest walls, and see what they share. Do the rooms stack? Share the same wall, or widely separated?

The corner you show is on an exterior wall, are all the 'wet' rooms on exterior walls? What room is behind the other wall shown? Is all the condensation in the wet rooms on one wall, or all walls?

Knowing the construction of the house would help, is it wood frame with brick veneer, or solid brick with framed interior walls? Few newer houses are solid brick, but all the concrete I see indicates that it could be 'solid'. Most newer homes (maybe 40 years old and newer) are wood frame with brick/stone/tile siding. They show the same problems, but different causes and solutions.

The 'universal' solutions are ventilation and/or dehumidifiers.


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

> Any chance that there is/was a water leak above the room?


I can't be sure but I don't think there is or was ever a water leave above my room (tenant).



> How about cutting a small port or hole near the ceiling and blowing in some additional insulation? The place looks quite cool but also hold so any insulation that was there may have collapsed. If it weren't such an undertaking I'd recommend removing the other walls and slapping some moisture barriers up in addition to insulation.


I was never very fond of blowing foam insultion into walls. It looks messy and can make matters worse/unsafe if caught around junction boxes. If I really need to insulate, I will opt for stripping the wall down and doing it properly with the pink fiberglass insulation, and maybe some styrofoam over or under that insulation for sound reduction (that's how my dad and I are renovating his place and it seems like it's a really good job).



> What do the wet rooms have in common?


Basically, for every room, the wall that is adjacent to the outside wall is almost frozen, which I've gradually learned to assume is the result of little or no insulation between the outer brick of the home and the drywall inside the room. 

Same thing goes for my room (where the frost is), however, this is the only room that has visual signs of condensation, regdardless of how cold all the other rooms are.



> What room is behind the other wall shown?


Under my room, in that corner, is the shaft for the chimney. The wall that has the electrical outlet on it (photo) is shared with my neighboor (warm wall), and the wall with the window (see verticals), is the exterior wall (shares with brick).



> Knowing the construction of the house would help


I beleieve the construction of the house is in solid brick with framed interior walls (again, refer to the street view photo). 



> The 'universal' solutions are ventilation and/or dehumidifiers.


But didn't we just establish that there isn't much humidity in my room (where the frost is)?


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

I am still of the thought it is that the wrong paint was used. Any chance it was painted with an exterior paint?

BG


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

No chance of that.


----------



## kendallt (Feb 21, 2007)

Solidify said:


> Basically, for every room, the wall that is adjacent to the outside wall is almost frozen, which I've gradually learned to assume is the result of little or no insulation between the outer brick of the home and the drywall inside the room.
> 
> Same thing goes for my room (where the frost is), however, this is the only room that has visual signs of condensation, regdardless of how cold all the other rooms are.
> 
> ...


 Insulate the exterior walls. the R value of masonry is roughly 1/8th that of plain wood. In other words, 8 inches of solid concrete is the same as 1" of wood. 

Moisture and condensation 'migrates', it moves to the coldest areas. this is the same process that allows 'frost free' refrigerators and freezers. The average room will keep the moisture suspended in air until it comes in contact with a cold surface, the outside wall in this case. Air movement will keep moisture suspended, you will likely find most condensation in 'static' corners, closets etc. 

a 1 inch polyiso foam board is r7 or r8. 1" (actual, not nominal) furring strips spaced every 2 feet on center on the wall, the polyiso between, with 1/2 inch drywall over that will eliminate the condensation. 
it is NOT super cheap, but can be picked up on ebay or elsewhere for very low cost. I found some on craig's list a while ago for $5 a sheet. 

other foams can be used, and are cheaper, but polyisocyanacrylate's are the best R value. Bead board, (styro-foam) is cheapest, identified by the little 'balls', then moves up through expanded polystyrene (pink or blue, uniform foam with no 'balls') to the polyiso.

My plan, should I be in the same situation, would be to insulate the bedrooms first, then move along in stages till the rest of the house was done. Insulation will do far more as an 'investment' than any new heaters would. 

No offense intended, but you mention shareholders and then say that 'you' can't afford maintaining the house. Share holders implies that they have an interest in the house, do they contribute to maintenance and upgrades?


----------



## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

As Kendall stated, insulate. Do the most problematic areas first. You don't even have to open the whole wall. FG can be tucked to minimize damage. It won't be perfect, but much better that what you have. Have you ever cut into one of those walls to see what you have to work with?


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

> Have you ever cut into one of those walls to see what you have to work with?


Nope


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

If you cut into you will learn a little about how to do drywall repair. Basic repair is pretty easy, but to be good at it, to the place you don't notice the repair is hard.

Plus you really need to buy more tools!

BG


----------



## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

For your first hole, cut it where you have a picture hanging. It'll make it easier to patch. 

Seriously, an exploratory hole cut into your bedroom wall will tell you a lot about what you're dealing with. Patching drywall isn't all that hard, as long as you have the paint to match. I just cut a ventilation fan into the bathroom ceiling I'm working on. I can post progress pics if you care.


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Sure vegas, post away


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Bg, ive done dw repair many times, just not very good at it. I dont understand how that has to do with insulating my walls since if id do that, I would just replace the whole wall if i add insulation, no?


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

If it where my place I would be drill a couple 1-2 inch holes just to see if there and what kind of insulation was in there. They do make a foam insulation that is injected so walls dont have to be replaced. They inject it if there is no insulation. That just leaves you with small holes to fix.

To even think about a good drywall repair you need a broad drywall blade. Like a scrapper but they have a thin blade. I use a 5 inch wide blade. 

BG


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

I don't like insulation foam for some reason. It gives me the impression of a 2nd rate job. Although I may have no choice now if I don't want to demolish everything. Keep in mind, the 3 sides of the home need to be insulated, and it's a pretty big stretch if you look at the photos.. What about the walls that have tile like the washroom and the kitchen that has cabinets and counter tops? How do you use insulation foam in those cases?


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

> To even think about a good drywall repair you need a broad drywall blade.


that's probably where I mess up..


----------



## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

You cut any holes yet to see what it looks like inside those walls, Solidify? I've been busy with more plumbing, finishing the rough walls, and getting the rock up. I took some pics of a patch in progress for you. I'll throw em up after dinner.


----------



## kendallt (Feb 21, 2007)

I thought he'd said the walls with condensation problems were masonry, which is why I recommended using furring strips, foam and drywall over it. 
Easiest and the second most effective way to insulate masonry. 

Most effective is to insulate the outside so you can use the heat mass to stabilize interior temps....
Can be harder to make look good though.


----------



## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

I read they're exterior, but chances are there's a little room for improvement behind the drywall. Without at least seeing how deep the window sills are, it's hard to tell.


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Yes, all the walls with problems are the walls that share a side with the outer brick layer of the home. But no, I didn't have a chance to do anything. The problem went away went the temperature rose. It was just for that week that we had a bad winter storm. All the frost is gone.


----------



## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

Here's how I patch drywall, Solidify. Remember, I'm an electrician. :hide: There's a thousand ways to do it. 

I cut a rough hole(about 8"x 11") so I could run some new cable up to the attic. Since I'm patching, I make sure the hole is big enough to get my task done easily. 










I then squared up the vertical cut on the right so half of the stud is exposed for attachment of the new patch piece. If you didn't have anything there, a small piece of wood screwed to the existing drywall is fine. 1x6 T&G laid flat works great. I also cut the top layer of paper 2" back on the existing drywall, and peeled it off. This is the key to eliminating the hump where the transition from old to new will be. Here we call really smooth walls a "Level 5" finish. A patch like this can disappear on an L5 wall.










Next find a nice little drywall scrap to cut your patch from. It doesn't have to fit tightly. The closer you get it to fit, the less passes you'll need to fill the gap. Joint compound/drywall mud shrinks as it dries. Tighter gap=less material to shrink. Screw your patch in. Don't drive them in too far. The heads should be just below the surface of the paper without tearing through it. Break through the paper and the loses it ability to hold. Tape all the seams(I left a piece off so you can see the gap between the pieces, paper face removed, and screw depth). Fiberglass mesh is much easier to work with for small stuff, IMO.










Now you can mud that patch. Joint compound can be bought in small, pre mixed 1 gal. buckets. They're cheap, and great to have around. I start with a 6" taping knife. Metal pans are way better than plastic to clean, and can last a lifetime. Only put a little more mud in your pan than you think you'll need. Mix it up a little, and get it on the edge of your knife. You don't need much to make a pass. 










Hold the knife very shallow to the finished surface, apply light pressure, and drag the material out over your seams/tape. I had a ceiling patch I was also finishing and used the opp to take a pic of knife angle. After some practice you can get more aggressive, starting with a greater angle, and rolling it down as you drag. This allows you to start with more material on the knife, and make longer passes, without dropping stuff everywhere. 










Make that first pass over your tape and onto the existing drywall. Make sure any gaps are filled, and keep the layer on the patch, and existing drywall thin. Let it dry.










After it dries, lightly go over any ridges with a sanding sponge to knock them off. Then take a damp utility sponge(grout sponges work best), and gently blend off the mud from the existing drywall. Smooth the edges where it meets the patch. Don't wipe it hard, and down to the tape. Almost all of it should be gone from the existing drywall/texture.










Make one more pass with fresh mud, again overlapping onto the existing drywall a little further than before, and get the patch flat. Adding a little water into the mud will help it stay thin. A light touch keeps it smooth. Let it dry. 










Go at it with the sponge again and leave a little of your overlapped mud blended into the existing texture(if you have texture). Don't rub it all away. It should be in the depressions of the texture, and not on top. Feather out the edges. If you do wipe it away, just make another quick pass, let it dry, and try again. When you're done, don't put any of the mud from your pan back into your bucket, EVER. Throw the leftovers away. It's cheap. If you try and save it you'll end up with little pieces of junk that will get dragged around everytime you use that material from the bucket. It'll leave little lines in your work that just take more time to smooth out.

At this point it's ready for texture.(I'm spraying the whole room with a hopper, so no pics) For patches, the spray texture in cans is okay if you know what type of texture you are trying to achieve(light orange peel/spatter, heavy spatter, knockdown). It's expensive for what you get, but great in a pinch. Any kind of texture takes nothing but practice to determine how much you need. Try it out on a piece of cardboard before you hit the wall with it. Too heavy, or too light and it's noticeable. Lightly overspray it onto the old texture as you apply it to your patch. It too will shrink a little as it dries, so going a little heavy works best. If you don't think it looks right, you can wipe it away with your sponge while it's wet. Once you think it's okay, let it dry overnight, and paint it the next day. 

It's not hard to do, you just gotta do it.


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

I'm not a fan of screentape for the inside corners.......most people don't have the 'touch' or think about which angle to run first with the 'mud'. I've worked with many 'pros' and wince when I hear them cutting the mesh when applying the first coat.......:nonono:. Might as well not have any tape if you use too much pressure or the wrong angle with the broadknife and cut the mesh......:ermm:

Sparky has done a nice job on his patch and should have no trouble. But....he has not done a professional job. IMO he has done a *much better* job than most pros I have seen......:thumb:

Back to the condensation......

Pure speculation on what may exist. I was framing houses around the time your place was built and have an idea of what may be the problem......no insulation inside the partition blocking. Unless you have an unusual structure you have a wood frame building with brick veneer. 










Take note of the 'partition assembly' in the center of the picture. This is probably what you have. Rarely were these insulated due to lack of access after the walls were joined up. The blocking was the same size as the intersecting wall and the void was inaccessable. If I were to frame a house today I would use wider blocking to allow access for insulating purposes. What we used for blocking were the cut-offs from the 'jack studs' (see door and window details) and the same size as the intersecting wall. Also look at the corner blocking (left side of picture).....the condensation may also exist at the outside corners. 

What to do?? 

You could drill a ~1" hole in the corner and look for a void. Visualize an angle that is 45 degrees from either wall and drill the hole right into the corner. Stay away from 3' high......seems to be a convenient height for electricians to place their rough wiring......:grin:. 4' should do it and drill only through the framing......enough to get a 'look'. Use a flashlight and try to see if insulation exists......or poke a pencil in the hole and feel for resistance. 

No insulation?? 

Get an estimate from a qualified insulation company. You could try to make it a DIY project but the cost may be greater due to materials and equipment. You could try to use expanding foam but it is expensive and hard to calculate if you have applied the right amount.......and will require multiple holes. Too much foam can cause other problems.....not enough foam won't get the desired results. I'll speculate on what a professional will do.....this is just a guess. They will drill one hole at the top of the wall and blow in perlite to fill the void......no muss and no fuss. One hole (at each problem area) will be easy to fix with no major patching of drywall. 

Take a count of all partitions involved before calling an insulation company.....along with wall height. (X amount of partitions @ X height) See if they can give you a price over the phone.


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Sparky:

Why are you running cables up to the attic? Is your panel there?



> If you didn't have anything there, a small piece of wood screwed to the existing drywall is fine.


Can you try to find me a video online of this? I know what you mean but I can't visualize it.

What's T&G?



> I also cut the top layer of paper 2" back on the existing drywall, and peeled it off.


Are you referring to the rectangular piece of drywall peeled of on the ceiling? I don't understand why you did that? And what is that brown material under it if you said you took the drywall off there? What is all the part in red in the picture I attached? If you ripped off the drywal like you said you did over there, wouldn't you see the inside of the wall/studs?



> Screw your patch in. Don't drive them in too far.


I heard of a drill add-on that makes this easier...

I attached another pic of the red colored in.. what is all that pink stuff on the drywall piece you put in the hole?

And yes, I have that yellow grid-line tape in my garage, just never knew how to use it.

when I use my sandpaper block to sand off the excess drywall before going back for another coat, I always end up sanding off the paint on the wall surrounding the patch job. Pisses me off. :banghead:



> I'm not a fan of screentape for the inside corners.......most people don't have the 'touch' or think about which angle to run first with the 'mud'. I've worked with many 'pros' and wince when I hear them cutting the mesh when applying the first coat........ Might as well not have any tape if you use too much pressure or the wrong angle with the broadknife and cut the mesh......


what do you mean by this SABL?

SABL, I don't understand what a partition is, even when locating it on your photo


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

I always use paper tape. Inside corners are hard to "master"

BG


----------



## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

Answer to one of your questions.
* SCREWDRIVER INSERT BITS, Phillips, slotted, Torx, Pozidriv


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

To me "T&G" means tongue and groove, i.e.flooring

Vegassparky is removing only the top layer of paper only, as there are two layers of paper. Doing so decreases the thickness a little for a smoother patch.

You should not need to sand every coat of mud. Trick is to put it on really smooth.
My first 2 coats, of mud, can be handled with a damp sponge, the last coat I sand.

The partition is for a place to nail another wall at a right 90º angle.

I always plan on repainted the walls after a patch. You will notice a difference in the paint color and make the patch stand out.

Remember being pretty good at finishing drywall is an art, takes practice and the right tools. The metal pan can last about forever. Mine is at least 30 years old, but I take care of my tools.

BG


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Corday said:


> Answer to one of your questions.
> * SCREWDRIVER INSERT BITS, Phillips, slotted, Torx, Pozidriv


Nope, meant this:


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Basementgeek said:


> I always plan on repainted the walls after a patch. You will notice a difference in the paint color and make the patch stand out.


What if you had to patch a small hole on a big wall that you don't have the paint for anymore. We went to the store with a piece of drywall from that wall thinking that we could just paint over the patch but when the paint expert told us we'd need to repaint the whole wall, which is huge and much bigger of a job than we had anticipated, we left it be for now. We would have never made the patch/hole if we'd have known it would require painting the whole wall later.


----------



## kendallt (Feb 21, 2007)

Solidify said:


> What if you had to patch a small hole on a big wall that you don't have the paint for anymore. We went to the store with a piece of drywall from that wall thinking that we could just paint over the patch but when the paint expert told us we'd need to repaint the whole wall, which is huge and much bigger of a job than we had anticipated, we left it be for now. We would have never made the patch/hole if we'd have known it would require painting the whole wall later.


 This is when you learn how to blend. 

Even if you saved a quart or two of the original paint, when it comes time to touch up a spot or two, the paint will not be the same. this is when you dry blend, paint the patch, then 'dry' paint to the old areas to blend it in. basically work your way from the new paint to the old without dipping the brush or roller. You do not actually match the colors, you just make the transition so smooth that nobody sees it. 

the problem with painting is that for every color you can name, there are hundreds, if not thousands of 'identical' colors that simply aren't.


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Paint always changes color with age.

BG


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

I like your dry painting suggestion kendalt. Might try that.


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Where are we........



> I don't understand what a partition is, even when locating it on your photo


Partition = wall.....I can go with either but in the trades we say partition.

The partition assembly is where the two walls come together and consists of 2 studs spaced apart with blocks the same size as the adjoining wall. The 2 studs are 'lathcatchers'.....a place to fasten the 'lath'. Otherwise the 'lath' (drywall) would be floating. For insulating purposes they now use horizontal blocking between the studs where other walls tie in. What's shown in the diagram is old school and not used in most places. What we do commercially (metal studs) is completely different......:laugh:.

Mesh tape and inside corners.....

Mesh tape is easily cut with a broadknife......too much pressure 'into the corner' where any gap exists will cut the mesh. Might as well not have anything in that case.

What sparky is working on is either an added wall or they do things completely different in his area. Drywall exists behind the wall where it buts up to the other wall and above the wall at the ceiling.....also absense of a double plate at the top. The wall also appears to be 2 x 3 from what I see.

Remove a layer of paper on the new piece of DW??

That's up to the person doing the patch. But, how much have you gained?? What needs to be removed is any coating (paint-spackle) on the existing wall surface. Once the patch has been completed, it will (should be) even with the existing surface. Beware of cutting the paper.....if you cut through to the gypsum you have done more harm than good.


----------



## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

I've made enough disclaimers about the fact I'm not a drywaller/painter. :grin:
Regardless, this method works for me, and doesn't cause problems with further finishing(paint/tile/moldings/etc). I'd have suggested paper tape, but Solidify seems brand new to any of this, and newbies usually end up with poor adhesion/blisters playing with paper. I'd like to see the kid run with something he's learned here. We all started sometime.

I typically remove the top layer of paper to avoid the nasty hump that can accompany a patch. You can try to diminish the appearance of the hump by using successively larger blades, and feathering it out further away from the patch, but that doesn't always turn out looking great. If your patch is in the middle of a large, smooth wall, perimeter lighting will make it shine.


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

> I'd like to see the kid run with something he's learned here.


What do you mean by this?


----------



## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

Solidify said:


> What do you mean by this?


Take one of your projects and get started. Doesn't have to be anything big. You've said you wanna build something, so go for it. :grin:


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

This was the first drywall plug I did in this home. I used the grided tape the wrong way lol Awful job


----------



## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

That's okay. Like everyone has said, it takes practice. I bet your next one is 100x better. :thumb:


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Thanks. If you need to sand down the patch, how do you do that without sanding off the paint around the plug?


----------



## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

If it's just raw, dry, drywall mud, a damp sponge does the trick. If you wanted to fix that patch, and it's painted, you should try a metal putty knife, and *gently* try and scrape off the patch material.


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

> If it's just raw, dry, drywall mud, a damp sponge does the trick


But if I try to perfect it with the sponge, won't it go down when the drywall hardens?


----------



## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

If you started with it dry, you'll only be wiping away the surface with the damp sponge. Stop wiping before it gets too shallow. This is something you just have to try, and see how it works.


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Not picking on Sparky's patchwork.....he's doing fine. Solidify could use a little more practice......but you have to start somewhere. I was 26 when I completely gutted an 80yr old 2 1/2 story frame house.....lotsa work and I was 28 when it was finished. I had very little sanding to do.....but the neighbor offered to let me use what he uses to sand. A belt-sander.....:rofl:. I can only imagine......

What grit sandpaper are you using, Solidify?? Actually, you should not be using sandpaper at all......:nonono:. Everyone I have worked around use 220 grit drywall sanding screen......they don't have much to sand. In your case I would start with 150 and switch to 220 when you get close to the desired results.


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

I just use whichever sandpaper I have lying around. I have about 3-4 different grits. I never knew it made that much difference but now that I think of it, it makes sense. :facepalm:


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

I use something like this......but mine is rather old and has a wood handle....:laugh:









My hawk also has a wood handle......it's almost 40yrs old.


----------



## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

Sabl: If you had used his belt sander you'd either look like Hulk Hogan or have a serious hernia. Would love to have seen you try.


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

I got a nice belt-sander.....but it's NOT for drywall. They do have power-sanders, though. Back when I started in the trades they had sanders.....that was their job. My philosophy is that in order to learn how to finish drywall you need to sand your own work. You learn faster.......:grin:

Still not picking on Sparky........but......I am not fond of wet sanding at all. The only time for that is when dust control is an issue on very small jobs. I've seen more 'pancakes' when a sponge is used.....nail/screw holes look like someone stuck a pancake on the wall and painted over it.

The only thing Solidify has to learn is to not use too much spackle......your not going to cover a patch with one coat. Most times the minimum is two coats......often it is three. New tape joint is three coats.....taping....bed coat....and finish coat.

One thing else to consider. When painting the patch expect to see what is called 'flashing'.......the spackled area will be much smoother than the existing painted surfaces and will stand out if only one coat of paint is applied. It will take multiple coats of paint to match the 'roller texture' from previous paintings.


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

> nail/screw holes look like someone stuck a pancake on the wall and painted over it.


Lmao all my patches look like that



> not use too much spackle


Isn't spackle the term used for patching holes in wood? Do you use drywall compound and spackle synonymously?


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Yes, spackle and dry wall compound are the same, commonly called "Mud". On wood I use wood filler.

If you see a place where a nail/screw hole was filled, you did not do it right. They are simple to do.

When sanding anything, use your fingers tips and feel it, if you can feel it you will see it when painted.

BG


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Why did I do it wrong if i put mud in a hole where a screw ir nail was?


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Because you probably didn't "dimple" the area before you filled it. You need a slight depression. I use a ball peen hammer.

BG


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

While do you need to dimple the hole before I add mud?


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

To get a level surface when done.

BG


----------



## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

If you're nailing drywall up dimples will be present after sinking the nails. When using screws you won't have any recess around their heads, and that's fine too.

Spending most of last weekend outside, I did come in once in a while to finish off my bathroom drywall, and prep it for texture. You can see the dots covering the screws. The mud is sanded down and feathered so its perfectly smooth.


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

What are those blocks or identations in your bathroom wall for (squares)?


----------



## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

I'm not sure which ones you mean. In the drywall I've got receptacles and switches roughed in. Inside the shower, those are niches for shampoo/razors/whatever.


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

> niches for shampoo/razors/whatever.


Answered.


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

They are another place to clean......:laugh:

Comes in handy, though.....:thumb:. 

How you coming along with the condensation?? Find the cause??


----------



## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

Rule#1 with home improvement: I build it, she cleans it.
Rule#2: She doesn't always agree with her part of rule #1, but always agrees with mine. 

What can you do? LOL


----------



## WereBo (Apr 5, 2008)

To quote an old chum from S Carolina I met online years ago: 'Can't live with 'em, can't shoot 'em....' :grin:


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

I heard worse.......can't repeat it here.

I've got a bath/shower ready to finish after years of only having a functioning water closet. It will have the shampoo recess areas.......pita to have the bottles fall off the tub ledge....:frown:

I'm still curious about solidify's condensation and why it is happening.


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Got to say the red is different.

BG


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Hey SABL, there's no more frost but its because the temperature has warmed up. The frost/condensation on the wall was only present during that week I posted this thread, which is when we had our big storm. However, outer walls of the home continue to be cold.


----------



## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

Basementgeek said:


> Got to say the red is different.
> 
> BG


That's just the layer of liquid waterproofing on the walls in the wet area, BG. You can certainly tell if you've missed a spot. Finish material gets applied directly to that. :hijacked: :hide: :grin:

You ready to fix that patch, or cut a new hole in that outside wall yet, Solidify?


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Too busy with school, work and I'm basically handicapped with this pending surgery so not the best of times for me. Continue with your washroom, I don't mind. Still learning. :grin:


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

I would think it would be more of a pastel color. I guess you are going floor to ceiling hard cover like tile.

BG


----------

