# Adding transmission additive



## ebackhus (Apr 21, 2005)

Yo, Automotive!

My '04 Jeep Liberty is showing some signs of transmission slip when fully loaded so before I take the tranny out and replace things I wanted to start with Additives. I'd read great things about Lucas Transmission Fix fluid so I was going to go that route. Many reviews suggested draining some fluid before adding. I checked my fluid levels after driving last night and they show as full. From my research it seems draining and replacing the fluid is a one-man job but before I get under the vehicle I wanted to see if I could get more opinions on both additives and level of difficulty.

Note: it's an automatic with about 119,500 miles. Next oil change is in about 600 miles.


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

First thing......was the engine running when checking the fluid?? Transmission warm (operating temp) and in neutral or park while the engine is at an idle. A low transmission will show as full if the above is not done.

I'm not a believer in oil or transmission additives. My oldest son got the bright idea of adding Lucas to his transmission as a preventative....van had high mileage. All that did was cost money to change filter and fluid when the famous OD (OverDrive) shudder happened as soon as he made a test drive. Today's fluids are engineered for the transmissions and should not be polluted by additives. In fact, MerconV was engineered when the E4OD developed OD shudder with the existing MerconIV fluid. I'm well aware of this......I was a victim of that problem. The fix was to drain the transmission and replace the fluid with the newer one. I was lucky and still under warranty......Ford paid the tab.


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## ebackhus (Apr 21, 2005)

Engine was off for about 1 minute when I checked. I'll try it today with it running. Hadn't thought about the idea of it being idle and thus contributing to false readings.

I have no idea what fluid is in the Jeep nor the age. I'm always in OD because my commute is about 95% highway.


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

What does the fluid look like?? Nice and pink or burnt/brownish?? Any odor that smells like something is burning??

I just checked on that transmission and it doesn't seem to like being overloaded.

I rarely shift out of OD.....no reason unless I'm pulling a heavy load and going up a steep incline.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

You should have flushed once at least since new. The system which sucks the old fluid out and completely replaces it is a great improvement over the old drain and fill system which replaced half the fluid. If if it's still "Red" or even contaminated as SABL indicated, I'd try the flush and filter replacement if you find a place for under $100.
Also agree with SABL on not using additives which for engine or tranny are commonly called "Mouse Milk".


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## ebackhus (Apr 21, 2005)

SABL said:


> What does the fluid look like?? Nice and pink or burnt/brownish?? Any odor that smells like something is burning??


As I recall it was a light pink so coming up to the threshold where a change would be good. I don't recall seeing any contaminants or other stuff in it.

Corday, I have actually considered that in the past as a "just because" thing due to me not being the original owner. I had second thoughts after watching sting videos of places claiming they did the work when in fact NOTHING was done. Typically this was at quick lube places with names that sound like Spiffy Lube or Expressive Lube.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

Regardless of "Insurance Regulations", insist on watching the process.


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## kendallt (Feb 21, 2007)

The only additive I've ever used in an automatic is seafoam. The old A4OD mentioned above was notorious for a buildup on the governor. Before the change to merconv, the fix was to add Seafoam to clean it then change filter and fluid. 

I am NOT a fan of flushing the transmission, most problems can be detected by dropping the pan and seeing whats in it. If you see a lot of 'sparkles' in the pan, the bushings are gone, if you see a thick layer of brown or black crud in the bottom, bands and clutches are pretty much gone.
A thin dark coating is pretty much normal. If that's all that's in there, look into how to adjust bands on your transmission. On some it's a simple adjustment(you'd need an inch pound torque wrench), others you need to purchase a longer pin.


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## ebackhus (Apr 21, 2005)

On flushing I've seen multiple arguments for and against it. The stick came up clean but I haven't had time to drop the pan.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

Most of the arguments were from before the current method. If it's brown or smells burnt, flushing is a must. The filter change picks up the solid stuff (actually a strainer). To actually fully flush 30 years ago took almost all day which was why dealers did the ½ method. I also believe in draining and refilling manuals and rears (100,000 miles).


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

the only thing with flushing a transmission using the complete change process, is if theres already transmission slippage a complete flush may make it works, the previous owner of my Jeep wrangler was kind enough to put 75K on the trans without ever changing the fluid or filter, the fluid was almost orange I swap filters once a year and change whats i eth pan that's it, sometimes let it set and drain a couple of hours


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## ebackhus (Apr 21, 2005)

I'm more keen on the complete flush now. Sadly the best mechanic I know works the same hours I do with the same days off. We do have a second vehicle but wifey needs it to collect our daughter from school/run daily errands/wife stuff.


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Flush may work for now. Does your mechanic friend have someone they could recommend?? 

Any time a transmission slips is a warning of impending failure.....they just don't slip for no reason. 

What you are considering as slipping may be nothing more than the torque converter stall.....the torque converter acts as a clutch and is designed to slip up to a certain point. Sluggish acceleration is normal depending on the load.....if the engine revs up there is a problem.


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