# John Deere 111 won't start



## longjon76 (Mar 17, 2009)

I've got a 111 that won't start. I am pretty sure that the ignition switch works. I can get it to turn over by jumping from the battery to the starter. I pulled the sparkplug and cranked the engine with the plug against it and I'm getting no spark. 

The seat is missing so I've bridged the driver's safety switch under the seat. The PTO switch is missing too. Would that keep the spark from working? Am I maybe looking at a bad magneto? Where are the safety/kill switches on this model? I'd like to eliminate them while I'm troubleshooting. 

Thanks in advance for any help.


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## Snoopdogie187 (Jun 27, 2002)

Hi I have been working on a John deere 111 recently, and got it start. 

If you want a look at all the parts you can go to http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt type in 111 as the model and click the plus sign next to "1699 - 108, 111, 111H and 112L Lawn Tractors (with 30-Inch & 38-Inch Mower Deck) - 01Oct04 "

then from what drops down, you select what you want, i usually went with the sectional index because it worked for me, and then select what part you want (careful, they have 3 or 4 lawn mowers here, all similar except for a few little pieces so watch if it says 111).

Also you can go to biggs and straton for some info on the engine http://www.briggsandstratton.com/ma...ual_type=Operator Manuals&menu=nav3&subMenu=3
This requires the engine model (its on the ver front of the engine). They have some stuff, pretty much the same as Jd, it is just a matter of what helps you more. 

I would have to say it is possible that the seat and pto switches can be causing a the safey/kill switch to be on. That is just my thought though. I believe you can take the top cover off the engine off and get to the magneto and disconect the kill wire to it, and leave that off to the side (make sure it is not grounded), and I think that would tell you if it is bad or not. 

I would advise to be careful doing this since it is an engine and I'm sure you know all this, but please be careful.

I do think the igntion switch and pto switch are wired together, as a safety.

If it is now of the wires to the magneto, then I believe it would have to be the magneto.

This is only what I learned from researching how to get my 111 going (which I am still working on - but it wasn't started in the last 5+ years and no ignition switch anymore).

If can also be a bad ground, if it is looking like anything what I'm working on, there is rust, and the seat switch is grounded to the fender in the back on mine, so I think that could be a weak link. 

Sorry to go on, I would suggest by placing all the safety stuff to test it, see if that works. If it does then it is time to look for whre the wiring is bad. 

Sorry if there is an easier way, I'm completely off here, as I said, this is just what I learned working on the one I have


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## longjon76 (Mar 17, 2009)

Alright, thanks for the answer.

So the wire going to the magneto is the kill switch wire? If I disconnect that, the kill switch is basically out of the loop? That would be very helpful. 

I appreciate the help!


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## Snoopdogie187 (Jun 27, 2002)

Yes, I believe that is correct, don't want to say 100% correct because this is something new to me, sorry


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## longjon76 (Mar 17, 2009)

No need to apologize! I appreciate the help. When I get home, I'll give it a shot. Whether it works or not, I'll post the answer.


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## mack1 (Nov 27, 2007)

Hi guys,

Some (most) kill switch systems only need to be unplugged to work. If you short it, the engine won't start. If you leave it unplugged it will. 

Seems the regulation on those systems only stated that it had to work with kill switches, not that it had to close a circuit to work, so most use open circuit system.

Try it and see, might save you some trouble. 

Best regards,
Mack1


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## longjon76 (Mar 17, 2009)

Ok, I'm most of the way there. I pulled the kill switch wire out off the magneto and got spark at the sparkplug. That put a big ole grin on my face. It's still a little wonky though. When I turned the ignition, I could hear the solenoid but I had to do it a couple of times before the starter would actually engage. Still... it's progress.

The only problem now is that the fuel line is rotted to the point where I can't keep fuel pressure and the connection to the fuel tank is also in rough shape. I took it out and I'm going to see about replacing it with a screw in connection with grommet, washer or o-ring or some combination. 

Now... I've heard that you can convert these engines to solid state ignition. Anyone know how to do that?


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