# tecumseh carb question



## drmax (Dec 9, 2008)

Hi. I took this carb off a centura 3.8 HP engine, and i either need to rebuild or, better yet replace it, but I have no idea what model it is. I do not have the book as it came off of a devilbis power washer. I know it's old and was not taken care of. Can anyone lend a hand? Thank you, dm


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## k2skier (Sep 30, 2008)

drmax said:


> Hi. I took this carb off a centura 3.8 HP engine, and i either need to rebuild or, better yet replace it, but I have no idea what model it is. I do not have the book as it came off of a devilbis power washer. I know it's old and was not taken care of. Can anyone lend a hand? Thank you, dm


Tecumseh used the same kit, 631021B for all their carbs, you get a seat and needle, bowl and nut gasket in it.

Somewhere on the starter shroud there's a model number (sometimes under the DeVilbis plastic top cover if there's one), if there's not a sticker it's stamped into the shroud and painted over, usually on the flat sides on the top end.


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## drmax (Dec 9, 2008)

k2skier said:


> Tecumseh used the same kit, 631021B for all their carbs, you get a seat and needle, bowl and nut gasket in it.
> 
> Somewhere on the starter shroud there's a model number (sometimes under the DeVilbis plastic top cover if there's one), if there's not a sticker it's stamped into the shroud and painted over, usually on the flat sides on the top end.


cool on the kit...
ok, eng model #TVS115 (then 2-3 spaces then) 56097E(C) 
The power washer says EX-CELL model WGV1520
One of my kids is presently sick, i'll ck back in later. Thanks for helping me I.D. this particular carb. I think I should junk it.


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## drmax (Dec 9, 2008)

drmax said:


> cool on the kit...
> ok, eng model #TVS115 (then 2-3 spaces then) 56097E(C)
> The power washer says EX-CELL model WGV1520
> One of my kids is presently sick, i'll ck back in later. Thanks for helping me I.D. this particular carb. I think I should junk it.


i found the carb replacement, which is a 632744. i would attemp to repair, however when i removed the float bowl and needle valve to give it a shake, i could not hear the emulsion tube rattle, which i was told is a bad sign. is this true? i did this on a briggs snowblower once, and the same results, it would never run correct, so replaced carb with new and all was well.
thx for any info on that. dm


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## K-B (Oct 24, 2005)

k2skier said:


> Tecumseh used the same kit, 631021B for all their carbs, you get a seat and needle, bowl and nut gasket in it.
> 
> Somewhere on the starter shroud there's a model number (sometimes under the DeVilbis plastic top cover if there's one), if there's not a sticker it's stamped into the shroud and painted over, usually on the flat sides on the top end.


Hi,
All Tecumseh engines do not use the same carb kit, Tecumseh has several different ones. This carburetor uses Tecumseh part Number 632760B for the repair kit.


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## K-B (Oct 24, 2005)

drmax said:


> i found the carb replacement, which is a 632744. i would attemp to repair, however when i removed the float bowl and needle valve to give it a shake, i could not hear the emulsion tube rattle, which i was told is a bad sign. is this true? i did this on a briggs snowblower once, and the same results, it would never run correct, so replaced carb with new and all was well.
> thx for any info on that. dm


Hi,
Normally you cannot hear the emulsion tube rattle.


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## drmax (Dec 9, 2008)

how can i determine, if this emulsion is able to be removed? i read somewhere it can't be removed, and other place shows a pic of the emulsion tube removed. also, would the rebuild kit come with the proper orings for emulsion tube? thx for any info.


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## k2skier (Sep 30, 2008)

The rattle you would hear in Tecumseh carbs is the pin that floats in the idle transfer passage, it sits next to (parallel) to the emulsion (main nozzle) tube. I don't think your carb has this part, (if I remember correctly it was only used in adjustable idle carbs). The 632760B carb kit is a joke, you get many parts you'll never use, unless your going to pull all shafts, plates and welch plugs. I rebuild these carbs daily with a 632021B and 2) 632547 orings, it's much cheaper also.

Your emulsion tube is removable, it's plastic.


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## drmax (Dec 9, 2008)

k2skier said:


> The rattle you would hear in Tecumseh carbs is the pin that floats in the idle transfer passage, it sits next to (parallel) to the emulsion (main nozzle) tube. I don't think your carb has this part, (if I remember correctly it was only used in adjustable idle carbs). The 632760B carb kit is a joke, you get many parts you'll never use, unless your going to pull all shafts, plates and welch plugs. I rebuild these carbs daily with a 632021B and 2) 632547 orings, it's much cheaper also.
> 
> Your emulsion tube is removable, it's plastic.


good info and i thank you. what am i up against, removing this tube? i've never done this, and i have no special tool carb tool.

also, what type of cleaner do you use to soak carb, or do you? thank you again


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## k2skier (Sep 30, 2008)

I use a pick to remove the lower oring, then push the main nozzle down from inside the venturi and pull it out with small needle nose pliers . It can be a little hard, but using a pick you have to dig out the upper oring on the other end of the main nozzle that's stuck in the card. No special tools needed, set the float to have 11/64" between the carb body and the the top edge of float, manual says to use a drill bit.

If it's not varnished don't dip it, if it is varnished you'll need to go to an auto parts store and by some carburetor dip, it may be cheaper to buy a new carb if you have to buy dip.

MSRP
632760B $13.78 universal kit-has needed parts to replace welch plugs and throttle shaft screws. IMO it's too expensive for what you use.

631021B $4.32 universal inlet needle/seat kit
632547 (2 needed) at $1.49 ea oring


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## drmax (Dec 9, 2008)

k2skier said:


> I use a pick to remove the lower oring, then push the main nozzle down from inside the venturi and pull it out with small needle nose pliers . It can be a little hard, but using a pick you have to dig out the upper oring on the other end of the main nozzle that's stuck in the card. No special tools needed, set the float to have 11/64" between the carb body and the the top edge of float, manual says to use a drill bit.
> 
> If it's not varnished don't dip it, if it is varnished you'll need to go to an auto parts store and by some carburetor dip, it may be cheaper to buy a new carb if you have to buy dip.
> 
> ...


ok, good. when pushing tube back in, can it only go in so far?
also, is there a "seat" the upr oring sits in? i'll get a mirror on the upr side tonight. i have no idea how far this oring has to go, when it's in the body.
thx, dm


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## drmax (Dec 9, 2008)

*tube*



drmax said:


> ok, good. when pushing tube back in, can it only go in so far?
> also, is there a "seat" the upr oring sits in? i'll get a mirror on the upr side tonight. i have no idea how far this oring has to go, when it's in the body.
> thx, dm


i now understand how the top oring sits. i'll get the few parts you mentioned and give it a whirl. thx


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## drmax (Dec 9, 2008)

*running*

got the carb built and eng hunts a little, but, the air filter is bad. changing this today and spark plug. i will start a new thread on the washer pump, to see if i get any advice on that. thx


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