# Estimating a tiling job?



## vtech (Jul 23, 2006)

I have a customer, and he wants me to do a tiling job, {9ft long x 4ft wide} bathroom floor and do the tub surrounding as-well.How would you go about estimating the job.I live in the northeast area if that helps with the pricing of material and labor.


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## ebackhus (Apr 21, 2005)

Determine the type of tile that will be used and get a materials cost. From there decide if you'll be padding the materials cost at all and then estimate labor (removal of old tile, wall prep, sealing, barrier material, etc.) I've never redone a bathroom but I did help my parents redo their home with removing carpet and linoleum the be replaced with wood and ceramic, respectively.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

To many variables, like what tile they want, whats on the floor/walls now.

If I were to tile my small bath I would pull the toilet and the wood trim. Put a skim/filler on the floor next.

BG


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## vtech (Jul 23, 2006)

the person already has tiles but other material are needed such as cement-boards/Adhesive/grout.I haven't seen the bathroom in-person, they looking for an online estimate now.Afterwards ill go an check it in person.


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

You can get online calculators Tiling and Paving Calculators might help get a rough pricing together


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## vtech (Jul 23, 2006)

i use this site Cost to Install Ceramic Floor Tile - 2014 Cost Calculator (ZipCode based)


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## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

There are a lot of variables to consider. The majors are existing conditions, types of finishing materials, and your profit expectations. 

Proper bathroom construction (especially wet area tiling) is full of details. Lots of common practices don't comply with industry recommendations, and may impact longevity, or lead to consequential damage.

The floor is relatively easy. Anything around the wet area needs to be done right to make it last. That doesn't mean it'll take much longer to do it correctly. Could be no more than a week to do what you describe, if all goes well. Plan on a little more if its not your thing. The homeowner asking for an online estimate, with only a brief description, is kind of strange. Let them know you'd love to look at their project in order to accurately estimate the cost.


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## vtech (Jul 23, 2006)

okay ive looked at the bathroom today and this is what it needs.

- removal of tub surrounding
- put on cement boards for the tub surrounding
- put cement boards for floor 
- start applying tiles to tub walls afterwards to floor {id say 2day job/ max 3}
- put down grout
- put back baseboard molding.
with all that said what would you consider a decent labor cost for this job.I've went to Lowes/Depot and got an estimate on materials needed for the job and came out to $140. I originally said $600 for the project, but i want to know what you guys think?

{he/she will provide only the tiles}


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## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

This is only a tub surround, no shower correct? What's included in the material estimate you have so far? The little things can add up quick. You should still apply a waterproofing to the immediate spash area if its only a tub. Either poly behind the CBU, or liquid to the face(+$10-$50). You'll need some 100% silicone at the CBU/tub flange(+$20). A container of CBU screws will be needed to attach the cement board(+$25). If you're doing the floor, the toilet should be pulled, so a new wax ring/bolt kit(+$5). A box of 8P finish nails for the baseboard(+$6). Acrylic latex w/silicone caulk to prep the baseboard(+$5).


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## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

What size are the floor and wall tiles?


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## vtech (Jul 23, 2006)

floor is 9ftx3.5ft wide and tub surrounding is 30inx30inx60in walls and the customer only wants to go 5ft high for the tub walls.I believe the wall and floor tiles will be the same at 12x12.


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## Gadsden (Mar 10, 2012)

I've done maybe a dozen or so tiling jobs with three complete showers tear-outs and re-tiles.
Without seeing the job, I'd probably be coming in at $1200+- for labor only. There is always something that doesn't go as planned.


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## vtech (Jul 23, 2006)

Here is the quote i made, just a reminder i haven't done anything like this before,i only worked on houses that i bought. buyers really appreciated my work so i thought that maybe i can have a career in this business. Now should i also include the little things? like a bucket for mixer of mortar and tile spacers and such?


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## vtech (Jul 23, 2006)

What do you mean complete? like installing the vanity/toilet and tub? From what they told me, they only want me to remodel the floor and tub walls with tiling, and afterwards they would install the toilet and vanity themselves.


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Will you be able to salvage the substrate that the tub surround is attached to?? Will drywall repairs need to be made?? If applying the cement board on top of drywall you will need a cap that will cover the edges of the cement board or have a very large grout/caulk joint. Is the cap made for the thickness of the cement board?? Will you be doing the caulking?? Can the baseboard be salvaged?? Will the finished floor be straight enough to not require shoe mold?? Will any painting be required?? What surfaces/areas will need to be protected?? Where can you set up to cut the tiles and how far away will it be?? 

If part of the labor is to be done by the customer you need to find out specifics of what responsibilites will be yours and theirs.


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## vtech (Jul 23, 2006)

i am not sure how the drywall will be when i take off the tub walls. but moving on, this is what i came up with for the new quote and should i waterproof the 2 intersecting corner edges for the backer board with redgard and fiberglass meshtape?

and there wont be any painting or installing of any material-
only the tiling of the bathtub walls and bathroom floor.

if you were in my shoes, what would you estimate the project.
from what i saw this is what it needs before beginning the job
- take off the tub surround {most likely clean the caulking that was applied to drywall from the panels}
-remove the molding/door from the frame
-remove the heater vent

then you would start the project


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## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

Are you using 3x5 sheets of CBU? I'd demo the drywall where the CBU will install, and install poly sheeting on the studs which will silicone down to the tub flange. That will eliminate any Redgard. The CBU corners and seams should all be treated with mesh tape and thinset mortar. The CBU for the floor also needs a layer of thinset underneath the CBU.


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## vtech (Jul 23, 2006)

Yes, im using the 3x5 backer-board. The floor is plywood, looks to be leveled. I'm curious why would you put down a thin-set of mortar on the floor and screw it in afterwards, I've never done that before.Can i use the redgard instead of mortar for the corner of the cbu?


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## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

AFAIK, all the CBU manufacturers require thinset under the material for floor installations. Its not for bonding(the screws hold it down), its to minimize any flex between the screwed areas by filling any deviations between plywood and CBU. Look at the CBU mfgrs instructions to verify. If a problem occurs down the road, not following written mfgrs instructions will put any liability right in your lap. You can use the cheap, unmodified thinset for this step, as adhesion isn't its intended purpose.

For your corners the same advice applies. You don't want to compromise your waterproofing by installing it where it can be subjected to mechanical stress. Thinset and mesh in the corners will create the proper, approved connection between CBU panels.

Shower and bath construction has come a long way. Water resistant doesn't fly anymore, because eventually the water wins. When it does, mold follows, and the health risks are a road you don't want to have to go down with a customer.

How high up the surround walls is the CBU going to run? 3' is typically fine in a bath for splash protection. Do you plan to demo the drywall for the CBU install? If you use Redgard, you must apply at least a few coats to ensure coverage. It does dry in a few hours for the next coat, or even quicker with a fan. 

FWIW, I was using the TSF app, and pics don't always show. I couldn't see your attached proposal earlier, that's why I may ask questions obvious to everyone else.


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## vtech (Jul 23, 2006)

The customer wants the tiles to be the same height as the surround walls were, around 50in. No, i don't think ill demo the drywall since i don't know what kind of support/studs the wall will have.


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## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

Here's the part I'm not getting. Are you going to install the 1/4" CBU over the entire area that is/was tiled in the surround? Does tile extend down the front tub edge to the floor(called a tub leg)? Is the Rondec going to finish your exposed edges. 3 days isn't enough to do it close to right, IMO. I'm not trying to big deal it, just don't want to see you get burned.


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## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

As far as the numbers, you're at about $160/day labor on that proposal. IMO, Add 2 1/2 more days and $100 for incidentals and see how it goes. I don't know how fast you work. $20/hour isn't much anymore, and if you cut yourself short it would hardly be worth doing. Gotta find that balance where you aren't rushed to cut corners, and within a reasonable budget to complete the project correctly.


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## vtech (Jul 23, 2006)

Okay thanks, i appreciate the input, and Ive added a couple more days to it.

The area for the tub walls was never tiled, it still has the tub surround wall panels{still on}. No tile wont extend down to the tub leg, and yes the Rondec trim edge will cover the exposed cement/tile edge.


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## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

Any response yet, vtech? Are ya knee deep in the tub?


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## vtech (Jul 23, 2006)

Bad news, the customer thought the price was alittle to high so they decided not to do it. i got the news late Sunday night so i didn't get a chance to post. I appreciate the help guys, it really means alot to me.


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## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

Might seem like bad news. Small jobs like this are always kinda funny. There's always someone cheaper, or it costs too much, but then they call back in a year when its a wet, rotten, mess. LOL If you never sacrifice the quality of your work, it will pay off in the end.


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

Sounds like they are either tight for the budget or just plain tight either way they will learn an expensive lesson going to cheap can cost you dear.


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