# Philips TV blown component? How easy to fix



## TrevorDFarm (Dec 15, 2017)

First time post - sorry if this is in the wrong place.

I bought a Philips LED 37 inch TV in the UK in 2010 - pretty sure its model number is 37PFL7605H/05. About five years ago it stopped working - just out of warranty! - repair would be hundreds of pounds so I put it to a side to look at it, which years later I've finally got around to doing.

The faulty behaviour is: it will turn on for about 30 seconds, then buzz and turn the screen off. Then it will pause for 10 seconds, turn the screen on for 10 seconds, turn off and repeat.

I removed the back and checked the components. I have NO electronics knowledge, but using online forums including this one I looked for signs of blown components, and saw that this one appeared to have leaked. From looking online, I think it is a 5k ohm trimpot on what I believe to be the power board, about 3mm in diameter.



















My questions are:

Has this trimpot - or whatever the component is - become faulty / leaked?

Could this be the cause of the problem?

How easy/safe would it be for me - an amateur - to replace?



Thank you in advance!


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## JimE (Apr 16, 2009)

That piece definetly appears faulty.

Possibly. Or that piece could have failed because of another issue.

Depends on your soldering skills. Soldering on PCB isn't for the novice. But with a little care, it's not impossible on a PCB such as that one which appears to be a basic single layer board.


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## Wizmo (Apr 3, 2011)

*It does look as if that variable resistor has burned, but the melted area is likely some glue that was put on the part so that it would stay adjusted to the point required. If you get a replacement part and work carefully (max 40W soldering iron & rosin core solder) you can likely replace it.

I would set the adjustment to the center of travel and see what results you get. However, it takes a considerable amount of current to burn such a control and it likely has burned as a result of failure of another part. In most applications, replacement of the entire board is the proper approach for these repairs. it eliminates the possibility of other defective components which are contributing to the failure.

The part # for the board is usually found at the edge of one side of the board. Key into Google the number(s) at the edges until the board description appears as the first result.

:grin:

*


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## tristar (Aug 12, 2008)

As wizmo said, that is a variable resistor and high probability that if that burnt out, some other components along that line were affected as well.

Also, any components which require 'tuning' would need to be 'calibrated' so chances are you may need to do this even after you replace the component, an oscilloscope is required to perform the calibration. Take it to a local tech who has an oscilloscope, if he doesn't best to take it to the manufacturer.


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## ebackhus (Apr 21, 2005)

Have you priced just the board? I had a 55" destroyed by my kids (panel only) and scrapped it. The boards typically went for around $100.


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