# honda lawn mower cracked flywheel



## jmaniaci (Oct 13, 2008)

I have a ~ 2 year old HRR 216 walk behind mower. I was cutting the lawn last week when I noticed a banging, clanking noise that sync'd with the rpm. I ran the mower for about 10 more minutes when it quit. The noise got a bit louder during these 10 minutes. The local honda service says its a cracked flywheel and related damage, but does not want to warranty this work. They say its cause I hit something, which I did not and oh by the way, the flywheel key did not give way and the blades are not damaged. Any suggestions on how to convince them or honda to do the right thing? Thanks.


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## k2skier (Sep 30, 2008)

I would try a different dealer, then write Honda a letter/e-mail.


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave: Yes k2skier has the best suggestion - 'though I don't like your chances - you have got nothing to lose.

I recall some time back when I had a Tecumseh 4Hp that sheared its crankshaft at the flywheel. Clearly, for that to happen there (as opposed to the drive / load end) suggested there was a weakness / fault in the crankshaft forging / manufacture - but as to be expected - Tecumseh blamed everything short of the Chicago Fire as the cause - excluding of course anything they had done. 

So, given the engine was a total loss with a sheared crank - I just bit the bullet and replaced it with a new B&S :sigh:


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## jmaniaci (Oct 13, 2008)

Thanks for the input. I did hear from Honda (although i think all they did was talk to the dealer on the phone) and they are supporting the local dealer, claiming that the damage reflects impact damage. The only problem with that was there was no impact, I was just cutting grass when all this happend (nothing to hit in my lawn) and oh by the way no damage to the blades. Looks as though I may have to either pay them to fix it, or buy a new machine.


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave: jmaniaci - I am sorry to hear of the dealer's and Honda's response, but not at all surprised. - Seems typical these days when something they make isn't up to scratch :upset:

All I can suggest is you carefully compare the cost of the repair with the cost of a new machine - might be more cost effective to just bite the bullet and start a fresh with a new engine / mower

Rightly or wrongly, the dealer is the OEM's customer - so they really only pay attention to them - not you as end user :sigh:- So if you, as the dealer's customer, can't get the dealer to support a reasonable complaint / issue - I WOULD NEVER GO BACK TO THAT ORIGINAL DEALER - look for someone who has your interests at heart, and good dealers usually do, which is why they can push OEMs to meet their obligations and why they stay in business


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## clowe (Dec 25, 2008)

depend on where the crack is at a good welder can weld that back together for you if it is not in the key way.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Welding is option. If you do, be careful about the balance.

BG


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## MickeyFouse (Feb 7, 2009)

Small surface cracking is a of a result of heat and wear, cracks that can be machined out will usually pose no problem, but severe cracking can render a flywheel unusable.
If you feel a noticeable shudder, especially after extended driving, shifting or pulling heavy loads or grades, the flywheel, and pressure plate are likely worn,cracked,and/or developed heat spots, and is in need of service.
_________________
underbody kits


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Hi:

It is a lawn mower, not a car :wave:

BG


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## MickeyFouse (Feb 7, 2009)

Ok.If you are having trouble keeping your lawn mower started this may be helpful for you. If you are able to start your mower and then it seems that it slows down and then up and then down this tip might help you,

At the end of the mowing season remember to run your mower out of gas and loosen the nut once again to remove any gas left in the cup this will keep the gas in the mower from going bad as it will not have any in it. The next season fill with gas prime and your mower should run great. I have also heard of people putting oil in the gas tank and then pulling the sting a couple of times to keep the parts lubed through the winter. I have never tried the oil thing but i always run my mower until the gas is gone and drain the cup every year and this works fine. It keeps the carb. from becoming varnished over and doesn't allow bad gas for the next year. This could save you a few Dollars next year.


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