# CEL help!



## ttrmotocross (Aug 17, 2006)

Hi all! Recently, I decided since winter is coming on, I wanted a remote start. I found a good deal on a Ready Remote 24921 system. It came with very clear instructions, so I followed everything to the tee. It worked fine, fired up my truck and stopped it. But now, I have the following CEL codes: p0740, p0785, p1860. These are all trans related, but it seems to be mostly solenoid related. It started slipping in 1st, and banging into 2nd, but I cut power to the remote start system and that stopped but I am still getting the codes. I'm worried that it basically fried a bunch of expensive components, does anyone have any insight? The only thing I can think of is that I have 3 ignition wires, so I followed the directions and got 2 extra relays and wired those up. Thanks for any advice!


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Year, make, and model of the vehicle??

Have you tried clearing the codes??


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## ttrmotocross (Aug 17, 2006)

Oops, sorry! I'm used to posting on a different forum that has it in my signature. It's a 1997 chevy silverado 1500 auto 4x4. I cleared the codes, but they came back on as soon as I started the truck again. I unplugged power to the "brain" and the CEL went away after I drove ~30 miles or so. The truck slips in 1st and bangs into 2nd when the brain is plugged in, but when I cut 12v power to the brain, it shifts fine.


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## jaggerwild (May 21, 2007)

ttrmotocross said:


> Oops, sorry! I'm used to posting on a different forum that has it in my signature. It's a 1997 chevy silverado 1500 auto 4x4. I cleared the codes, but they came back on as soon as I started the truck again. I unplugged power to the "brain" and the CEL went away after I drove ~30 miles or so. The truck slips in 1st and bangs into 2nd when the brain is plugged in, but when I cut 12v power to the brain, it shifts fine.


 Ive never seen a remote stater mess up a transmission, never heard of that remote start. Sounds like you have transmission issues to begin with.


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## ttrmotocross (Aug 17, 2006)

That was my initital response. My truck has 160k so i panicked. When I start with the remote, I get codes. When I start with the key, it shifts fine and the codes go away after a drive cycle. When I start with the remote, the fuse connected to the ignition 3 wire (see pic) blows every time. I'm pretty sure ignition 2 feeds the trans, but I was told I need to power up the transmission circuit on gm trucks. Any ideas?


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

I did see the note in the install instructions where tranny damage can occur if ign #2 is not hooked up.....I did not see any notes on a third ign for your truck. Disconnect #3 and revert back to original condition of the circuit....if you're blowing fuses something is not right.


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## ttrmotocross (Aug 17, 2006)

Ok, I will try that and let you know. I tested for voltage at the "3rd ignition wire" and it tested just like the other 2, but maybe it just plain doesn't need to be hooked up. I appreciate the help!


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

I don't have the wiring diagram for that vehicle or I would try to see what needs to be connected and what should not. Most of my manuals are for vans.....:grin:. Same basic vehicles but you never know how they code the wires and what color/tracer goes where.


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## ttrmotocross (Aug 17, 2006)

This is true. I went to the12volt.com, and their wiring diagram said the 3rd ignition wire was brown. The brown wire in my ignition harness tested as an accessory wire, only powered in run. An ignition wire is powered in run AND start. On the website for the remote start, the 3rd ignition wire is labeled as pink/white. That wire tested as an ignition wire, so i hooked it into the relay that feeds the 3rd ignition. I'm not sure what it would be if it wasn't an ignition wire.


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## jaggerwild (May 21, 2007)

ttrmotocross said:


> This is true. I went to the12volt.com, and their wiring diagram said the 3rd ignition wire was brown. The brown wire in my ignition harness tested as an accessory wire, only powered in run. An ignition wire is powered in run AND start. On the website for the remote start, the 3rd ignition wire is labeled as pink/white. That wire tested as an ignition wire, so i hooked it into the relay that feeds the 3rd ignition. I'm not sure what it would be if it wasn't an ignition wire.


 Did you use another relay to power it up? The brown wire is accessory, your testing is correct.


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## ttrmotocross (Aug 17, 2006)

I didn't splice into the brown at all. I used relays for ignition 2 and 3, as per the directions in the manual (see pic a few posts back). Today while getting in my truck I accidentally hit the start button on the remote. It started and ran fine, and no codes. Then after 10 seconds or so, one of the relays (not sure which one) started clicking once every second or so, and the CEL came on. I shut it off and started the truck with the key and it drives fine. It only goes into limp mode when i use the remote and leave it on. I'm going to try to revert to a regular 2 ignition wire setup and see if that helps. (as soon as I get the time to fidget with it)


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## jaggerwild (May 21, 2007)

ttrmotocross said:


> I didn't splice into the brown at all. I used relays for ignition 2 and 3, as per the directions in the manual (see pic a few posts back). Today while getting in my truck I accidentally hit the start button on the remote. It started and ran fine, and no codes. Then after 10 seconds or so, one of the relays (not sure which one) started clicking once every second or so, and the CEL came on. I shut it off and started the truck with the key and it drives fine. It only goes into limp mode when i use the remote and leave it on. I'm going to try to revert to a regular 2 ignition wire setup and see if that helps. (as soon as I get the time to fidget with it)



You may have a bad relay, try swapping it out see if that helps.


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## ttrmotocross (Aug 17, 2006)

Theyre brand new from the store, what could make them go bad?


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

They could have been bad from the beginning. Defective part.

BG


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## ttrmotocross (Aug 17, 2006)

It better not be for $16 a piece!!


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## jaggerwild (May 21, 2007)

ttrmotocross said:


> It better not be for $16 a piece!!


 If its not the relay then you have a lose connection on one of the wires, re read Sabl's second post he give clear instructions on what needs to be hooked up to stop the codes. The clicking like we said is one of two things, either the relay or the wiring is bad. if you paid that much I'm sure they will warranty the item for you, at least you'll know that its not the relay if you swap it out.


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## jaggerwild (May 21, 2007)

Ignition two needs to be powered up as soon as the unit powers up or else you will see the code, the wire you have sounds correct. You can use a test light to see if its getting power while remote starting.


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## ttrmotocross (Aug 17, 2006)

Hey guys, I just reverted back to a 2-ignition system (got rid of all the relays and just wired it as if there were 2 ignitions) and so far so good! Thanks so much for all your help!


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## jaggerwild (May 21, 2007)

ttrmotocross said:


> Hey guys, I just reverted back to a 2-ignition system (got rid of all the relays and just wired it as if there were 2 ignitions) and so far so good! Thanks so much for all your help!


 
VERY COOL MAN!
Glade you got it worked out :dance:


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