# Yamaha Generator ef2000is blown oil seal



## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

Hey folks,
Anyone know if you have to open up the crankcase on this little Genny to replace the oil seals? The service manual is less than clear.

Thanks


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## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

From the look of the seal area you should be able to remove and install the seals if you have the right tools.


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

Hey AVB,
I just came back from the shed and I think I can pull it and insert the new ones without opening up the case. Of course I lack any of the correct tools. But I reckon I can rig up a reverse hammer type of thing to pop it out. Now getting it back in nice and evenly is a bit of a question. I have some dowel that might just about sit perfectly on the outside edge..a few gentle taps...followed by some hard ones when that doesn't work!

The service manual says it needs Lithium grease. Anyone know if it gets coated all over or in a specific spot?


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

I have nothing to really lose as the shop wants about 700 bucks in time. Parts came to less than 10 bucks. She has about 1200 hours on it and isn't worth 710 anymore.

If I pooch it...I pooch it. But I would rather not....its way to big to use as a paper weight


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

Oh...dowel won't work as the crankshaft is in the way. Drill out a hole for it to sit in...maybe a deep socket instead...hmmm I think on this.


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

I've used a deep socket many times for seals/bearings. PVC pipe may also be used if the seal doesn't fit too awful tight.....you just have to make sure the end is square. I use my miter saw for cutting PVC.......perfect cut every time.....:grin:


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

Hey!...theres a good idea... square cut pipe. Thanks SABL.
I think I have some thick walled stuff out in the yard somewhere...but that means I will disturb a pile...this leads to more work.


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

morpho said:


> Hey!...theres a good idea... square cut pipe. Thanks SABL.
> I think I have some thick walled stuff out in the yard somewhere...but that means I will disturb a pile...this leads to more work.


:rofl::rofl::rofl:

Sounds like my place......I just have to figure out which pile to disturb. I have relatives that help generate the piles......:nonono:


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

Oh...my piles are all my fault.
All stuff I am sure I will need some day.


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## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

morpho said:


> The service manual says it needs Lithium grease. Anyone know if it gets coated all over or in a specific spot?


It the sealing lip that rotating shaft rides on. It used to prevent initial lip burn until oil can replace it.


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

AVB,
so the inside edge where the shaft comes through...
Thanks.


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

Ughhh!
Okay so I ended up needing to replace the crankcase gasket as well. Which is fine but when I got the crankcase cover off and was having a look inside there was a paper thin washer sitting down in the bottom of the case. That sent me back to my service manual looking for where it came from. I don't see it noted anywhere.
The only place it fits...kinda fits anyway... is over the end of the camshaft where the end "nub" sits into a slot in the case cover.
Anyone have any idea if this is actually supposed to go there and was just not noted in the exploded view in the manual or was this a mystery washer there by accident?


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

These are the bits I'm yapping about.
Anyone have thoughts?


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## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

Probably is just a shim washer for the camshaft. I would install it there as it is only place that fits. I have seen few over the years but I can't tell which engines they were.


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

AVB,
Thanks...Whats the worst that could happen!
hahaha...

So I put the washer in there and just put the cover on and now I'm trying to suss out how far the rotor and the flywheel are supposed to seat into the shaft.
(Man I hate not knowing what I'm doing!)

Obviously they don't just slide on and seat themselves perfectly where they are supposed to sit...but I don't want to crank down too hard and make a 15 dollar repair into a couple hundred.

Would you expect to see the woodruff key sit flush to the outside of the rotor?


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

Its on and I'm now kinda hoping I did it correctly.
Anyone have plans for a safety shield to stand behind when I start her up?


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Nah......just point it in the other direction......:laugh:

Good luck.....


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

Ok...slowly but surely!

So now I have to admit I am really really really lost. I am ok to make a few educated guesses... But this one really has me stumped.

I'm at the "hook up the electrical stage" Which you would think would be pretty easy. Click em where they should go...check the wiring diagram... good to go.
Ya, well not so fast. There is an extra wire not noted on the service manual and not even noted in the parts list.

The green is the ground.
The red one is not noted anywhere.
It is wired into the harness you see with the red and yellow wire.

Thoughts?


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

Its got to hook to the ground...makes no sense otherwise.


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

I know I am pretty much talking to myself here...but it gives me something to do between inventing interesting cuss words to yell at my generator.

Put her all back together....gas her up, oil in the case, spark plug back in...pull...nothing.

No flickering light on the oil light!....man...that sucks because if thats shot...I have to take apart the whole thing again and open up the case.

Check the fuel....carb is empty....fuel **** is open...ugh! (insert nasty words here)
Fuel comes out of tube fine....carb must be gummed up.

Ok...no problem...If I tear down the carb and clean it I will need to replace bowl gasket more than likely. Parts list shows it, but no number and doesn't seem to be available. Dear god whats the deal? I can order the most stupid little screw or spring or all other gaskets for this thing...but a gasket on the carb...nope!

I think I will curl up in a corner and weep for a while.


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

huh...interesting they "bleeped" the word C o c k as in Fuel C o c k ......which is what its called.
Its a good thing I'm not looking for info about chicken breeding! hahahahaha


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## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

Don't a couple words on AnswerArmy that were flagged. I had to get admin to remove them from the censor list.

As where Red goes Your going to need find where it is coming from first.

If you don't have of the wiring diagram its in the OM. PDF page 47.

```
[URL="https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CEYQFjABahUKEwiUnZmTjInHAhVDzoAKHZ2sB9Q&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.yamahaef2000is.com%2FEF2000iS_manual.pdf&ei=7F29VZT3D8OcgwSd2Z6gDQ&usg=AFQjCNF6y87AWonHCgr8n4f_eMJMYS5HxA&sig2=4ISux8CVXTzRN-T9UCeZzA&bvm=bv.99261572,d.eXY&cad=rja"]https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CEYQFjABahUKEwiUnZmTjInHAhVDzoAKHZ2sB9Q&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.yamahaef2000is.com%2FEF2000iS_manual.pdf&ei=7F29VZT3D8OcgwSd2Z6gDQ&usg=AFQjCNF6y87AWonHCgr8n4f_eMJMYS5HxA&sig2=4ISux8CVXTzRN-T9UCeZzA&bvm=bv.99261572,d.eXY&cad=rja[/URL]
```


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

Hey AVB,
I tracked down the wire. It was not in the service manual because my rig is from Canada...there is a second wire in the canuckistan wire diagram...this red one...that goes to the ground.

I managed to get it all together again...went and grabbed a new spark plug in case that was the no-start-culprit. No go...pull pull pull. Nada.

Took the carb off and it looks like new in there. (haven't gutted it and cleaned it yet) I unhooked the oil level switch and it still didn't start. I guess my next move is to try some starter fluid and see if that gets it all primed up and firing.

It was all working before this oil seal thing all started...ran perfectly.


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

*Yamaha generator ef2000is no make boom*

I figured I would start a new thread on this one as it has evolved from the original problem.

So, My little gennie doesn't want to start.
All the usual suspects have been dealt with. (or at least the ones I suspect)
Gas, carb, spark, oil level.

I even sprayed starter fluid...nothing.
I know its sparking...checked it a bunch of times.
But it simply doesn't want to kick in.

If you have spark and fuel why would it not even sputter and die?

I get nothing...

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks.

Threads merged so we can review previous steps taken to repair this engine.


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## afremont (Jul 13, 2015)

Did you check for spark? Does it have the normal amount of compression? Did you disturb the camshaft alignment when you had the case open?


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

afremont,
Hi
Yup, I have checked spark...put a new plug in, checked the resistance on the plug, the plug cap, the cable. All good.

Now whether or not the alignment of the camshaft was disturbed...This I don't know. It rotates freely. Well, as freely as I would expect it to knowing less than nothing about engines.

I put everything back where I found them. All the markings lined up and and all that. Or at least I did my best! My Mom always said: "If you do your best everything works out" Apparently my Mom was blowing sunshine up my exhaust pipe! 

I don't even get the glimmer of combustion....

When I pull the plug and cover the hole, there is compression. Whether it's the correct compression I don't know.


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## afremont (Jul 13, 2015)

If you disturbed the camshaft/crankshaft alignment, it will not run. There are usually some kind of marks (dots/lines or a combination of the two) on the two gears that have to be exactly aligned. One tooth off and it probably won't run, or will run very poorly at best. 

So you can see sparks on the plug, right? Nice and blue? I'm a glutten for punishment so I usually just hold it and pull the rope slowly and feel for a shock. As for compression, you shouldn't be able to hold your finger over the hole without a bunch of pressure escaping when the piston comes up. There should be around 100PSI of pressure, so not much chance of containing it with your finger.


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

I lined up the dots...checked it and double checked it.
The compression blows past my finger in a nice pop pop pop as I pull the cord.
I put her in a dark room and checked the spark. Nice and blue and where it should be.

Maybe I'll take her apart again and see if I did something stupid.
But honestly it was pretty simple in there...not much to go wrong! (famous last words!)


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## afremont (Jul 13, 2015)

If you have spark and compression, that only leaves fuel as the issue. Did you try starting fluid? If it fires on that, you know the carb isn't getting fuel to the engine for some reason.


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

I even tried starter fluid!
Nothing.

What kills me is she looks like new in there! 

The carb was super clean. I cleaned it anyway.

Gas is flowing.
Spark is sparking.
I am pulling.
Should go boom!


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Key way on the fly wheel or the cam is off. Also could be the wiring on the coil is off.

BG


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

Basement geek:
Who knows?...I guess I will pull it apart and start again. 

Man alive, no wonder these guys are charging out at 150 bucks an hour around here! I'd like nothing more than to drop her into their lap and say "fix" but it's just not worth it.

Ok...I better clear some room on the bench and start again.

Thanks everyone.


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## afremont (Jul 13, 2015)

I would think that having verifiable spark at the plug rules out a few things with the coil and possibly the low oil shutdown switch, assuming any low oil detector shuts off the spark and not the fuel. 

It's an overhead valve engine, so I would take the cover off and make sure that the intake valve is actually opening and closing when you turn it over. That would definitely stop it from running on fuel or starting fluid. Check the exhaust valve as well just to be sure of it. Borrow a compression gauge at a parts store and make sure you have at least 100psi after a few pulls of the rope with the throttle wide open. 

If you're sure that you got the timing marks lined up right, then you should wait before opening it back up.


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

Thanks...will have a look at this now. I might become an expert in this one generator...Buy up everyones paper weight ef2000is's and corner the market on used ones!
....or not.


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

PUSH RODS!
Well....not sure exactly if this is the no start problem...(remember I know less than nothing about engines) but as I was taking things apart yesterday I decided to open up the head cover (I think the only thing I have not opened since I started this. I took off the cover and both push rods were not where you would expect them to be. They were flopped against the side, not in the rocker arms.

Not good.

To my naked eye they seem straight. Now I just need to figure out how they go back in. I am hoping I just seat it in the top of the valve lifter and rotate the shaft until there is enough room for the other one to go in.

If I am missing something let me know!

I am learning way more than I ever wanted to know about this generator!

I should have listened to the sage advice I received and just spent the big bucks on a proper diesel generator. I have almost spent the same amount on gas generators in the last 5 years as a little kubota or northern lights would have cost.


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## afremont (Jul 13, 2015)

That would definitely do it. Bring the piston to top dead center on compression stroke. This will be where both push rods will go down the same amount when the piston is at the top. On exahaust stroke, the exhaust valve push rod will be up higher holding the valve open; rotate the engine 360 degrees to bring the piston to the top on compression stroke.

Get the rods seated down in their respective lifters and adjust rocker arms to proper clearances. Obviously you'll have to loosen the rocker arms to get the push rod under them. After this, rotate the engine several times to make sure both valves are opening and closing properly and that the clearance is good when the piston is at the top on compression stroke. 

Money can't buy experience.


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

Good morning Afremont.

"Money can't buy experience."
This is so true!...and I appreciate the experience.
Just didn't have the time for "experience" right now.


Sorry afremont....when you say "top dead center"
So this is the upper limit of the piston before it travels down again?

How do you tell which valve is which? 

Thanks...I appreciate everyones advice.


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## afremont (Jul 13, 2015)

Top dead is the piston all the way up before it starts to go down again, so the answer to your question is yes. As for telling which valve is which, it probably doesn't matter that much unless your engine assembly manual calls for different clearances. If so, the intake will be the one closest to the carb and the exhaust will be the one closest to the muffler, probably. When the engine is on compression/firing position both valves will be fully closed and will have the most amount of slack in the rocker arms, which should be very little. Probably just enough to wiggle them a tad bit and turn the pushrods with your fingers, when the lifter starts pushing on them all that stuff should get real tight as it tries to push the valve open.


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

AWESOME!
Thanks...I go get oily now.


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

Its alive! IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
No idea if everything is happy in there...but it started up first pull and sounded good.

YOU GUY'S ROCK!

I guess I should go and put a load on her as it is more than just an engine. It has a job to do.


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## afremont (Jul 13, 2015)

Just be sure you put the oil in it.


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

Yes, fresh oil and completely back together AND powered up the stuff I tried on her. Life is good. I feel all manly! I think I'll go drink some beer now!

Thanks again.


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Great to hear she fired up.......:thumb:

The beer will have to wait til I get done cutting the lawn. I'll have one with you then........:beerchug:


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## afremont (Jul 13, 2015)

:thumb:
There you go, that's how it's done. I just got my daughters go kart running. Previously owned by an idiot.  You should have seen the fuel tank and carb that had been "professionally cleaned and rebuilt" no more than a month ago. Talk about getting ripped off, this is why I choose to wrench on my own things. The carb had never been off the fuel tank (Briggs and Stratton integrated thingy) and the tank had more crud in it than a 75 year old grease pit. The engine would only run on starting fluid. The owner insisted that the tank pickup must have fallen off. Hardly... It couldn't, it was standing in sludge.

I soaked it all in grease remover, rinsed it good and flushed with gasoline. What an absolutely disgusting mess it was. I also put in a new diaphragm (even though that had supposedly been changed) and a tank gasket. Now it starts right up and purrs like a kitten. It's a wonder it didn't blow up when I first got it running because the original owner had the throttle linkage on the carb wrong and the governor tugged it to wide open throttle instantly. Got that fixed so that it returns to idle position like it should, and now I'm trying to figure out how the gas pedal is supposed to operate since there is obviously some missing linkage (likely just a spring of some sort). Now to change the oil a couple of times and flush out the sludge that surely must exist in the crankcase.


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## morpho (Jul 27, 2015)

SABL:
I think it's time you linked up a little pump so you get a constant feed of beer as you push the mower.
And pray it's not really big lawn...you might end up with some wonky lines.
Or even worse run out of beer and have to refill!

Afremont:
Reading that stressed me out!...Though I have a better grasp of things now that I have pulled this little thing apart...a few times. 
I was watching and drooling over this this morning: 




thats what I want.....put a generator to that and I'm good till I'm too old to care if I have power. (this generator chaos is all because I live of grid in the sticks)

Ok...more beer!


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