# Building First Desktop



## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

I am looking at building my first desktop and am using the thread -
"Want to Build a New Intel or AMD System / Revised 2010 and updated regularly" as a guide.
I am going to use this desktop as a media center to be hooked to my big screen LCD to play movies and music. I will also want to do video, picture and music editing. I will probably do some gaming, but it will not be the main use.

Questions:
- AMD vs Intel, which should I go with? Is it safe to say if I am looking at the higher end Intel i5 or an Intel i7 that they outperform any AMD processor, but if I am in the mid range Intel i5 there are AMDs for cheaper that outperform them?

- If I was to take the $1000 Intel Spec machine (from the above thread) and wanted to spend a bit more, is it better to upgrade the CPU or Memory, or by upgrading the CPU will I need more Memory?

- Once I get all the parts purchased could anyone suggest any other threads of how to put the system together? Also any threads of BIOS setup for the system or is this done automatically?

Cheers,


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## Laxer (Dec 28, 2010)

1. AMD is generally cheaper then intel but it comes at about a 10% efficiency. if you have the money i would go with intel.

2. This really depends on what your doing with the computer (OS for example) if your going to do alot of editing i would recommend a better cpu although that one will perform just fine.

3. reference this thread when assembling it: http://www.techsupportforum.com/f255/how-to-bench-test-your-system-171424.html


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

I will be using Windows 7 Professional or Ultimate (64-Bit).


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## Laxer (Dec 28, 2010)

In that case i might consider changing the cpu to http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115213

and then adding more ram.

someone here will give you an exact build later i'm sure.

As this is more for a specific use i would suggest saying your price range and someone will give you a build better for your use.


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

The max I would like to spend is $1200 but would prefer to be closer to $1000.
I will be purchasing the parts at a local store: www.memoryexpress.com
That Intel i7 processor is about $100 more than the Intel i5 760, so that is ok. How much more RAM would I need, 6Gigs or 8Gigs total? And from other posts it looks like it is better to get it in 2Gig increments, so for 8Gigs get 4 x 2Gig cards, is this correct?


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## Laxer (Dec 28, 2010)

yes however i know alot of the people here dont like to fill all the ram slots because it often doesnt utilize it correctly.

The only time you would really notice the difference in ram would be if your handling a lot of files. if your not doing commercial editing for a company or something 4 gb will probably suit you pretty well and its usually a pretty easy upgrade.

I would just wait a day or so and some of the hardware support team will give you a system best for your needs.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

4GB of RAM is more than sufficient for general use and/or gaming.
If you have no building experience-READ the Mobo manual thoroughly!
There are an abundance of how to videos on the net. Google is your friend.
Bench Test prior to assembling in the case.
Set the motherboard on a non conductive surface. The motherboard box is perfect for this. DO NOT PLACE THE MOTHERBOARD ON THE STATIC BAG! It can actually conduct electricity! 
Install the CPU and heat sink. 
Install 1 stick of RAM.
Install the video card and attach the power supply connection(s) to the card if your card needs it.
Connect the monitor to the video card.
Connect the power supply to the motherboard with both the 24pin main ATX Power connection and the separate 4 or 8 pin power connection.
Connect power to the power supply.
Do NOT connect ANYTHING else. Make sure you have the power connector on the CPU fan connected.
Use a small screwdriver to momentarily short the power switch connector on the motherboard. Consult your motherboard manual to find which two pins connect to your case's power switch. Then touch both pins with a screwdriver to complete the circuit and boot the system.

If all is well, it should power up and you should get a display. Then assemble the parts into the case and try again. If the system now fails to boot, you have a short in the case and need to recheck your motherboard standoffs.

If the system does not boot after this process, then you most likely have a faulty component. You'll need to swap parts, start with the power supply, until you determine what is defective


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

Thanks Tyree and Whiped, lots of good info.

I have upgraded video card, PSU and hard drives before in my old system with no issues, I have just never build a PC from scratch. I will follow the guides.

So are you saying that if I went with Intel i7 870 processor that 4Gigs of RAM is enough?


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## 1 g0t 0wn3d (Jan 31, 2007)

Yes, 4gb is enough for most applications (aside from heavy video and picture editing)


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

Just choosing some parts, wondering which processor to go with:

Intel Core™ i7 Processor 950 3.06GHz w/ 8MB Cache @ 299.99
or
Intel Core™ i7 Processor 870 2.93GHz w/ 8MB Cache @ 319.99


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

Or should I wait for the 2nd generation Intel i7 processors?


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

The 2nd generation Intel i3, i5, and i7 are out but at premium prices.


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

So which of the two i7 processors above would you suggest?


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

This is the system I came up with. Could you please give any feedback, ensure everything will work well together and recommend any changes. I have supplied links to the parts at the store I am purchasing them at.

*Computer Case*
Cooler Master Elite 310 Case w/ Window @ $47.99
Cooler Master Elite 310 Case w/ Window at Memory Express Computers

*Processor*
Intel-Core i7 870 2.93Ghz w/ 8MB Cache @ $319.99
Intel Core

*Motherboard*
ASUS - P7P55D-E PRO @ $194.99
Asus P7P55D-E PRO w/ Dual DDR3 1600, 7.1 Audio, Gigabit Lan, 1394, PCI-E, CrossFireX / SLI at Memory Express Computers

*Memory*
Mushkin Enhanced Blackline 6GB (3 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 @ $119.99
Mushkin PC3-12800 Blackline DDR3 SDRAM, 6GB Triple Channel Kit (3 x 2GB) at Memory Express Computers

*Hard Drive*
Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 64MB Cache @ $84.99
Western Digital 1TB Caviar Black 7200rpm SATA III w/ 64MB Cache at Memory Express Computers

*VideoCard*
Sapphire Radeon HD 6850 @ $199.99
Sapphire Radeon HD 6850 1GB GDDR5 PCI-E w/ Dual DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort at Memory Express Computers

*Power Supply*
Corsair TX 650W Power Supply w/ 120mm Fan @ $114.99
Corsair TX 650W Power Supply w/ 120mm Fan at Memory Express Computers

*CPU Cooling*
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus CPU Cooler @ $29.99
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus CPU Cooler at Memory Express Computers


Total Price: $1,113


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

Oh and I will be running Windows 7 Ultimate (64-Bit)


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## hhnq04 (Mar 19, 2008)

You've chosen Tri-channel RAM, your motherboard supports dual channel. Look for some 2x2GB sticks.

I would personally probably jump to the 750TX, a little extra headroom never hurts.

Besides that everything looks great!


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

The 750TX is actually cheaper, so that works out well.


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

Should I go with a triple channel MoBo or dual channel memory?


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## Drenlin (Dec 13, 2010)

At this point, you're better off waiting a couple of weeks for Sandy Bridge to come back in stock at regular prices.


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## hhnq04 (Mar 19, 2008)

Socket 1156 only supports dual channel memory.

Sandy Bridge looks to be very nice indeed, but it's up to you if you want to be one of the guinea pigs while the inevitable bugs are worked out of the new technology.


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

OK, say I stick with the 1st gen should I go with:
Intel Core™ i7 Processor 950 3.06GHz w/ 8MB Cache @ 299.99
or
Intel Core™ i7 Processor 870 2.93GHz w/ 8MB Cache @ 319.99 

and should I go with dual or triple channel MoBo and memory, and how many Gigs of memory.


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## Drenlin (Dec 13, 2010)

950/tri channel would be better, mainly due to the tri-channel RAM and the awesome motherboards that are available, but it'd be a little more expensive as well. Your call.

If you go the tri-channel route, that CPU plus these would be a good base to work off of:
Newegg.com - ASUS Sabertooth X58 LGA 1366 Intel X58 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Newegg.com - G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL8T-6GBRM

You could actually build a Sandy Bridge system now, if you wanted to. This'd be fine:



> CPU- Core i7 2600K- $230 (+ shipping)
> CentralComputers.com - BX80623I52500K-Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz 6MB L3 LGA1155
> (never heard of the store, but they're BBB accredited so you should be ok)
> 
> ...


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

Could you please recommend a tri channel MoBo and tri RAM from Memory Express Computer Products Inc. - Canada's Source for Computers, Laptops, Monitors & more...


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## Drenlin (Dec 13, 2010)

You're Canadian? That does complicate things a bit. :/

These would be good:
Mobo- Asus Sabertooth X58 w/ Triple DDR3 1866, 7.1 Audio, Gigabit Lan, 1394, PCI-E, Quad CrossFireX / SLI at Memory Express Computers
RAM- Mushkin PC3-12800 Blackline DDR3 SDRAM, 6GB Triple Channel Kit (3 x 2GB) at Memory Express Computers

Out of curiosity, why does it have to be form that store?


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

Well for those it would not be much more money. And the processor is actually cheaper. So that is all good.

I am buying from that store cause they are local, have a really good return policy and competitive prices.

I priced a lot of this out on newegg.ca and I would save like $60, no point to have to deal with mailing something back if it has to be returned.

Thank you for the input.

Cheers


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## Drenlin (Dec 13, 2010)

I can definitely understand wanting to buy from an actual brick-and-mortar store.

Going by the build in on the other page, I have some suggestions:

- Change the case. The Elite 310 has poor cable management and airflow for a system like this. 
My suggestion:
Cooler Master Gladiator 600 Mid Tower at Memory Express Computers
Even better, if you can afford it: 
Cooler Master HAF 922 Mid Tower Case, Black at Memory Express Computers


- Swap the PSU to one of these for better performance (I'd take the corsair HX)
Corsair HX 650W Modular Power Supply at Memory Express Computers
Antec True Power New 650W Power Supply w/ Quad +12V, 120mm Fan at Memory Express Computers

or one of these for more wattage (TX has better warranty, EA750 is partially modular...about equal performance)
Corsair TX 750W Power Supply w/ 140mm Fan at Memory Express Computers
Antec EarthWatts EA 750W Power Supply w/ Quad +12V at Memory Express Computers


-Change the GPU to this one, for the better cooler and 3-year warranty:
Gigabyte Radeon HD 6850 1GB GDDR5 PCI-E w/ Dual DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort at Memory Express Computers


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

Drenlin said:


> I can definitely understand wanting to buy from an actual brick-and-mortar store.
> 
> Going by the build in on the other page, I have some suggestions:
> 
> ...





solid advice


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

Would you take the 650W HX over the 750W TX? I am affraid to not have enough power, I had a lot of problems with my old machine and I think it was due to a poor PSU.

I am gonna take in all your suggestions and post all the components in a bit here, would love to have the final ok from you guys.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

Personally 


this would be by first choice to make sure the future was covered

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...207001&cm_re=xfx_black-_-17-207-001-_-Product

or

Newegg.com - XFX Black Edition P1-750B-CAG9 750W ATX12V v2.2 / ESP12V v2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply


these are seasonic OEM builds that are proven high class performers and 80 Plus SILVER rated


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## Drenlin (Dec 13, 2010)

^ He's buying from that store's physical location :/

I see no reason why the HX650 wouldn't power it. Total TDP(max power) of the CPU, GPU, and mobo is 287W, plus ~10% for overclocking, plus 40W for the RAM, 15W for the hard drive, 20W for the fans, and another 30W for whatever else you might come up with, and you're still at an absolute maximum of about 420W under load. Realistically, it'd be a lot lower.

So yeah, you could even add a second 6850 and be ok. _With_ the second GPU in, if you somehow managed to overclock everything on that system and bring it to full TDP (unlikely), you'd have the PSU loaded to about 85%. 

I will say, though, that if you're going to have _heavy_ overclocks on everything with dual cards, you may want to opt for the 750W.


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

Ok guys, here we go, this is what I came up with. Please comment on compatability and let me know of any substitutions. I am not sure about CPU cooling, is there something better I could get? And the PSU there are no XFX at memoryexpress, but if it is manditory I should get an XFX, I will order from newegg.ca Please comment, Thank you.

*Computer Case*
Cooler Master HAF 922 Mid Tower Case, Black @ $109.99
Cooler Master HAF 922 Mid Tower Case, Black

*Processor*
Intel Core™ i7 Processor 950 3.06GHz w/ 8MB Cache @ $299.99
Intel Core™ i7 Processor 950 3.06GHz w/ 8MB Cache @ $299.99


*Motherboard*
Asus Sabertooth X58 w/ Triple DDR3 1866, 7.1 Audio, Gigabit Lan, 1394, PCI-E, Quad CrossFireX / SLI @ $214.99
Asus Sabertooth X58 w/ Triple DDR3 1866, 7.1 Audio, Gigabit Lan, 1394, PCI-E, Quad CrossFireX / SLI @ $214.99

*Memory*
Mushkin PC3-12800 Blackline DDR3 SDRAM, 6GB Triple Channel Kit (3 x 2GB) @ $119.99
Mushkin PC3-12800 Blackline DDR3 SDRAM, 6GB Triple Channel Kit (3 x 2GB) @ $119.99

*Hard Drive*
Western Digital 1TB Caviar Black 7200rpm SATA III w/ 64MB Cache @ $84.99
Western Digital 1TB Caviar Black 7200rpm SATA III w/ 64MB Cache @ $84.99

*VideoCard*
Gigabyte Radeon HD 6850 1GB GDDR5 PCI-E w/ Dual DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort @ $199.99
Gigabyte Radeon HD 6850 1GB GDDR5 PCI-E w/ Dual DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort @ $199.99

*Power Supply*
Corsair TX 750W Power Supply w/ 140mm Fan @ $124.99
Corsair TX 750W Power Supply w/ 140mm Fan @ $124.99

*CPU Cooling*
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus CPU Cooler @ $29.99
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus CPU Cooler @ $29.99

Total Price: $1185


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## Drenlin (Dec 13, 2010)

Looks good to me 

I just noticed something though; The Corsair HX750 is only $15 more than the TX, and the same price after the mail in rebate. If you're willing to pay a bit more up front, that's a huge upgrade in quality.

Corsair HX 750W Power Supply w/ 140mm Fan at Memory Express Computers


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

Sold son, if the HX is better for $15, good to go


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

When the Sandy Bridge is released to the public it may very well have some issues. I like to give new technology 3 to 6 months to get the bugs worked out. 
Dual or Triple channel Mobo is your decision. Both will get the job done.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

FrankFooter said:


> Sold son, if the HX is better for $15, good to go


HX is Modular. Same quality as the TX Series but better cable management.


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## Drenlin (Dec 13, 2010)

^ Actually, the Channel Well DSG platform that the TX line is based on was modified a bit for the HX line. HX units are superior in every way to TX ones, and are about on par with Seasonic M12D based units. The TX line doesn't even come close to that.

edit: Actually, now that I think about it, some of the lower wattage HX units actually are/were M12D-based, so you can see the level of quality that they were shooting for.


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

So changing out the PSU for the HX I come up with this:

Computer Case
Cooler Master HAF 922 Mid Tower Case, Black @ $109.99

Processor
Intel Core™ i7 Processor 950 3.06GHz w/ 8MB Cache @ $299.99

Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth X58 w/ Triple DDR3 1866, 7.1 Audio, Gigabit Lan, 1394, PCI-E, Quad CrossFireX / SLI @ $214.99

Memory
Mushkin PC3-12800 Blackline DDR3 SDRAM, 6GB Triple Channel Kit (3 x 2GB) @ $119.99

Hard Drive
Western Digital 1TB Caviar Black 7200rpm SATA III w/ 64MB Cache @ $84.99

VideoCard
Gigabyte Radeon HD 6850 1GB GDDR5 PCI-E w/ Dual DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort @ $199.99

Power Supply
Corsair HX 750W Power Supply w/ 140mm Fan @ $139.99

CPU Cooling
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus CPU Cooler @ $29.99

Total Price: $1200

Are there any other modifications? I am spending a little more than I wanted to, is there anywhere I can cut back a $100-200? Also, would you recommend getting a 2 year In-Store Product Replacement Plan on all the parts for $105?


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Drenlin said:


> ^ Actually, the Channel Well DSG platform that the TX line is based on was modified a bit for the HX line. HX units are superior in every way to TX ones, and are about on par with Seasonic M12D based units. The TX line doesn't even come close to that.
> 
> edit: Actually, now that I think about it, some of the lower wattage HX units actually are/were M12D-based, so you can see the level of quality that they were shooting for.


The CMPSU-750TX is discontinued and the 750TXV2 is SeaSonic. Which version the store carries is unknown. The CMPSU-750HX is by CWT.


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

The store has the 750HX -Corsair HX 750W Power Supply w/ 140mm Fan at Memory Express Computers

Are there any other modifications? I am spending a little more than I wanted to, is there anywhere I can cut back a $100-200? Also, would you recommend getting a 2 year In-Store Product Replacement Plan on all the parts for $105?


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

FrankFooter said:


> ce: $1200
> 
> Are there any other modifications? I am spending a little more than I wanted to, is there anywhere I can cut back a $100-200? Also, would you recommend getting a 2 year In-Store Product Replacement Plan on all the parts for $105?


You could save about $50 using an Antec 300 Illusiion case and drop the aftermarket CPU cooler if you do not intend to heavily OC. That's about $80 savings without sacrificing quality. 
I was never much of a believer in any type of extended warranties and all the parts carry enough warranty to get by the crucial time period.


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

If I still go with the CPU cooler do I need thermal paste?


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

The cooler "should" have a thermal pad pre-applied or come with it's own paste. Either will be sufficient for normal use.


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## MPR (Aug 28, 2010)

Remember that the best bang for the buck system of today was the latest and greatest thing a little over a year ago. If you wait for the next best thing you always will be waiting. 

I always build in the "sweet spot" yet my systems seem capable of running most new software for four to five years (longer if it wasn't for games). You have a nice system there for a decent price.

Go to the web page of the memory manufacturer you like and use their adviser to find a dual-channel 4 GB set that's also close in model number to the memory listed on the motherboard manufacturer's QVL (it may not be exact due to new compatible memory coming out but if the memory manufacturer says its compatible then it probably is).

Edit: I went with a power supply rated higher in capacity than I actually need right now in anticipation of future upgrades.


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

Well I went out and bought everything there except the cpu cooler, tech said the one that came with the cpu is fine. Also, I went with Kingston RAM instead of Mushklin, tech guy said they hate Mushklin and have had problems with it. Now to put it together. I will follow the guide above, let you guys know how it all worked out. BTW the tech guy at memory express said you guys picked out some excellent parts.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

I have to disagree with the "tech" that told you Kimgston RAM was a better choice than Mushkin but it should be OK. 

Best of luck! Test on the bench before assembling in the case.
Remove EVERYTHING from the case.
Set the motherboard on a non conductive surface. The motherboard box is perfect for this. DO NOT PLACE THE MOTHERBOARD ON THE STATIC BAG! It can actually conduct electricity! 
Install the CPU and heat sink. 
Install 1 stick of RAM.
Install the video card and attach the power supply connection(s) to the card if your card needs it.
Connect the monitor to the video card.
Connect the power supply to the motherboard with both the 24pin main ATX Power connection and the separate 4 or 8 pin power connection.
Connect power to the power supply.
Do NOT connect ANYTHING else. Make sure you have the power connector on the CPU fan connected.
Use a small screwdriver to momentarily short the power switch connector on the motherboard. Consult your motherboard manual to find which two pins connect to your case's power switch. Then touch both pins with a screwdriver to complete the circuit and boot the system.

If all is well, it should power up and you should get a display. Then assemble the parts into the case and try again. If the system now fails to boot, you have a short in the case and need to recheck your motherboard standoffs.

If the system does not boot after this process, then you most likely have a faulty component. You'll need to swap parts, start with the power supply, until you determine what is defective.


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

Thanks Tyree, I will do the bench test as you say.

This is the memory I went with:
Kingston HyperX 6GB PC3-12800 Triple Channel DDR3 Kit (3 x 2GB) w/ Intel XMP


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

Anyone have a guide or link to a thread for BIOS setup?


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## Drenlin (Dec 13, 2010)

Everything in the BIOS should already be correct, except maybe for the RAM. Look through the options until you find one labeled "DRAM Multiplier" or something similar, and adjust that until your memory is running at 1600MHz. It ahould be set at 12, I believe.

You may also have to adjust the voltages, as DDR3 often defaults to 1.5V. Put the DRAM voltage at at 1.65V and you're good.

That RAM supports Intel XMP, so it's very possible that the mobo will pick up on the RAM's stock settings and you won't have to change anything.





Tyree said:


> The CMPSU-750TX is discontinued and the 750TXV2 is SeaSonic. Which version the store carries is unknown. The CMPSU-750HX is by CWT.


Only the 650W was Seasonic S12, the other two were still Channel Well PSH. Either way, the new ones are all Channel Well PSH II units. This is part of a post by a Corsair rep on OCN, about a week ago:


> *What changed?*
> 
> The platforms have switched on the TX850, TX750, and TX650. Probably the most significant change is on the TX650, which went from being a Seasonic S12-based unit to a CWT PSH II unit, and received an upgrade from a 120mm fan to a 140mm fan. This is the most noticeable of the changes. The 750 and 850 have also been upgraded from the older PSH units to the PSH II.


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

Last question, should i partition the 1TB harddrive, and if so, what split should i do?


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## Drenlin (Dec 13, 2010)

There are a few reasons for partitioning your hard drive. I'll explain the more common ones:

1: Separated volumes-
Many people simply have two columes on the same hard drive for the purpose of separating the data on the secondary partition from the first. This can help with several things, one of them being data security. It takes some fairly sophisticated malware to infect more than just the boot drive on your computer...most of the time it doesn't. Also, if any malware (or other software issue) manages to permanently damage your operating system, you can reinstall it on its original partition without touching the second one with all of your stuff on it. However, if you have any common sense, you'll keep backups of your important data anyway, and probably won't get infected by something that nasty. All in all, I'm not sure it's worth the trouble.

2: Other operating systems-
Some people like to run more than one operating system in their computer. On the same hard drive, this will require multiple partitions. I'd rather just use multiple hard drives.

3: Short stroking-
To short stroke a hard drive is to shrink the partition with the OS on it to a smaller size and put it in the fastest part of the drive. This dramatically reduces random seek times, and helps a bit with sequential times as well, but the downside is that the OS's partition has to only use fraction of the drive's available space. On a 1TB drive, you'd have to use about a 200GB partition for the operating system. For that reason alone, I don't recommend it, especially if you already have a fast drive.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

I use a 70GB partition for Windows 7. The rest is user preference. I like to make 3 partitions because I use Acronis on the 3rd to create an image for restoring if needed.


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

So a 100GB partition is enough for the O/S, how much space would I need for the backup (I guess this would depend on how many programs I have and how many files I want to back up)?

I will only be putting one O/S on there.


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## Drenlin (Dec 13, 2010)

Depending on the size of your hard drive, I'd want to use a lot larger of a partition than 100GB. 

I'll use myself as an example; I'm using about 150GB of my hard drive right now. Granted, I do have several games installed, but even without them I'd be running close to 100GB. My drive is a 1TB, with a 700GB primary partition for Windows, and the rest for a second OS. (Ubuntu Studio)

I back up everything that I couldn't easily replace (music, pictures, documents, etc) on an 80GB external drive, and have a third copy of my pictures and important documents on a flash drive.

Quite honestly, I'd probably be ok with about a 250GB primary partition, and could even use that to "short stroke" the drive like I was talking about earlier, but I'd rather just not fool with it. A larger partition means better wear-leveling anyway, so it's a good trade-off.

If you don't play games and don't have a lot of music or videos, then you may very well be ok with a 100GB partition, but I just don't see a reason to limit yourself so much.


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## FrankFooter (Mar 3, 2006)

How does this sound? If my partition is 200GB (for O/S and other programs and games) 800 GB for general use to save music, movies, etc. and I will put the backup image of my desktop on my laptop and a backup of my laptop on my desktop?


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