# [SOLVED] My New Build Q&amp;A Thread



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

I made a new build with the help of many users here and I'm happy to say that as it was my very first build, it went extremely well. I would like to make this thread for any questions I may have with regards to the new build until it is entirely operational (as it is still in the course of updating, installing programs, etc.)

New Build specs:

Cooler Master HAF 912 Black Mid Tower ATX Case
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBXL
ASUS F1A55-M LE R2.0 FM1 AMD A55 (Hudson D2) Micro ATX AMD Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
AMD A6-3670K Unlocked Llano 2.7GHz Socket FM1 100W Quad-Core Desktop APU (CPU + GPU) with DirectX 11 Graphic AMD Radeon HD 6530D AD3670WNGXBOX
SeaSonic S12II 430B 430W ATX12V V2.3/EPS12V 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply




1. My Cooler Master HAF 912 Black Mid Tower ATX Case came with two (of the many necessary) motherboard standoffs already pre-screwed into the case while I need to install the rest from the baggie of tools they provided. Is there a reason they do this?

2. the uppermost 5.25'' drive bay on my case has an automatioc lock/release mechanism. This is great, but it blocks access to the screw holes behind it incase I wanted to bolt it down for added security, since optical drives are spinning, I see it not a bad idea.

3. After 2-3 attempts at mounting the motherboard to the case, I was having a hard time lining up the rear I/O panel with the I/O shield on the back. Those metal flaps that are on the I/O panel are supposed to be bent towards the inside of the case to provide a sort of guide for the board to fit into. I realized this after my 3rd time installing the board by which I had already fastened the cables with cable ties, etc. so I just left it like that for now. No wonder I felt so much resistance while screwing the board. Those metal flaps were between the board and the I/O panel. I'll probably do it the next time I need to dismount the motherboard.. Any tips on how to make this easier? I was worried about making the board touch the standoffs and circuiting the board so it was hard to focus on guiding the board into the I/O panel.

4. I dreaded doing this: unplugging/plugging the 24 pin motherbaord power connector. with an mATX board, the right side of the board is not screwed so there is too many flex where you're applying pressure to either remove or plug the connector. I find that if I had an ATX board, which has screws mounted to the outermost right, the board would have much less flex on that area and make it easier to remove/plug that connector. I managed, yes, but I HATED removing it, it's so difficult and all I could think of in my head was "OK, this board will snap, NOW!" Any tips on how to make this easier? I try to wiggle back and forrth but that doesn't help much. I also managed to put a flathead screwdriver between the motherboard port and PSU connector and pry them apart, which helped abit..

5. the computer I'm using now, my old one, can accept IDE and SATA. I found two old optical drives that I wanted to put into this old computer so that I can use it as a backup somewhere else in the house (since I transfered my newer optical drives to the new case). The problem is that those old optical drives are both IDE and the HDD for my old pc is sata. Would I still be able to run a PC with drives with two different connection interefaces? If so, how can I do this?

6. I had a hard time using the Asus Q-connector because I didn't know where to plug it, so I didn't use it. Can anyone tell me if my board can use it?


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Make sure to install all the latest drivers from the motherboard's manufacture's website!!

Do it in this order: Chipset > WiFi > Sound > Everything else.



> 1. My Cooler Master HAF 912 Black Mid Tower ATX Case came with two (of the many necessary) motherboard standoffs already pre-screwed into the case while I need to install the rest from the baggie of tools they provided. Is there a reason they do this?


Just to be nice I would guess :grin:.



> 2. the uppermost 5.25'' drive bay on my case has an automatioc lock/release mechanism. This is great, but it blocks access to the screw holes behind it incase I wanted to bolt it down for added security, since optical drives are spinning, I see it not a bad idea.


I wouldn't worry about it falling out if that's the issue. The lock will hold it in. If you really are worried about it then just put the screws in on one side.



> 3. After 2-3 attempts at mounting the motherboard to the case, I was having a hard time lining up the rear I/O panel with the I/O shield on the back. Those metal flaps that are on the I/O panel are supposed to be bent towards the inside of the case to provide a sort of guide for the board to fit into. I realized this after my 3rd time installing the board by which I had already fastened the cables with cable ties, etc. so I just left it like that for now. No wonder I felt so much resistance while screwing the board. Those metal flaps were between the board and the I/O panel. I'll probably do it the next time I need to dismount the motherboard.. Any tips on how to make this easier? I was worried about making the board touch the standoffs and circuiting the board so it was hard to focus on guiding the board into the I/O panel.


Is the padded side of the I/O shield against the motherboard?




> 5. the computer I'm using now, my old one, can accept IDE and SATA. I found two old optical drives that I wanted to put into this old computer so that I can use it as a backup somewhere else in the house (since I transfered my newer optical drives to the new case). The problem is that those old optical drives are both IDE and the HDD for my old pc is sata. Would I still be able to run a PC with drives with two different connection interefaces? If so, how can I do this?


You'll need an adapter for the IDE HDD. You can find them on Newegg.



> 6. I had a hard time using the Asus Q-connector because I didn't know where to plug it, so I didn't use it. Can anyone tell me if my board can use it?


Look on the motherboard manual. It will show you how to use it. It's an easy guide on how to plug in the lights and case buttons.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

I tried downloading them from their website but I didn't know which ones to download since there were several versions for each driver. And even when I did download them, I didn't know which .exe to run in each folder... so I just ended up using the Driver CD that was included in the mb box. How can I make sure they are up to date?

I followed the newegg DIY video and did it in this order: chipset, LAN, then audio & usb, then graphics



> I wouldn't worry about it falling out if that's the issue. The lock will hold it in. If you really are worried about it then just put the screws in on one side.


Yeah thats what I did.



> Is the padded side of the I/O shield against the motherboard?


If by padded you mean those metal flaps, then yes, theyre towards the inside.



> You'll need an adapter for the IDE HDD. You can find them on Newegg.


Really? I can't use them both simultaneously? Can you redirect me to an adapter pls?



> Look on the motherboard manual. It will show you how to use it. It's an easy guide on how to plug in the lights and case buttons.


I did, I did it without the adapter but the manual doesn't show how to use the Q-connector.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*



> tried downloading them from their website but I didn't know which ones to download since there were several versions for each driver. And even when I did download them, I didn't know which .exe to run in each folder... so I just ended up using the Driver CD that was included in the mb box. How can I make sure they are up to date?
> 
> I followed the newegg DIY video and did it in this order: chipset, LAN, then audio & usb, then graphics


If you use just the CD then they are for sure out of date by now. The way to check on which one you'll need to download is to check the Device Manager.



> Really? I can't use them both simultaneously? Can you redirect me to an adapter pls?


You can use them both but motherboard's don't use IDE drives anymore.

Vantec IDE to SATA Converter - Model CB-IS100 - Newegg.com



> I did, I did it without the adapter but the manual doesn't show how to use the Q-connector.


That's fine. You don't need to use the Q-connector anyways.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*



> If you use just the CD then they are for sure out of date by now. The way to check on which one you'll need to download is to check the Device Manager.


So if there are not yellow exclamation/interrogation marks on any devices in the DM they are all up to date?



> You can use them both but motherboard's don't use IDE drives anymore.


My old PC' board is intel DG31PR and it has 2 IDE ports on it as well as 4 SATA ports. Doesn't that mean my board can still "use" IDE drives?



> That's fine. You don't need to use the Q-connector anyways.


Yeah, I know but for convenience, if ever I need to do some work in there,... I wanted to know if you can tel me whether its supposed to work on my board?


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

The q connector should have writing on it to show what gets plugged into it. All you need to do now is follow the cables such as power switch and reset switch and plug them into it.

You should have a mobo install disc just use that to install the drivers and if it comes with any of the asus tools it will download automatically or direct you to the correct update drivers.

I/O shields can be a PITA you most likely need to use more force than your willing to do to get it in correctly.

The lock mechanism should hold perfectly fine.


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## Flight Sim Guy (Dec 19, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Run Windows Update, also.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*



> So if there are not yellow exclamation/interrogation marks on any devices in the DM they are all up to date?


No. Right Click on the drivers and press Properties. Then it should display the version. Then check Asus's website for the version that have. Use the most up-to-date.



> My old PC' board is intel DG31PR and it has 2 IDE ports on it as well as 4 SATA ports. Doesn't that mean my board can still "use" IDE drives?


Sure if it has a port for it.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

I mnaged to get the old PC working with a SATA HDD and 2 IDE ODDs.

I'm looking to give old PC wireless capabilities and put it upstairs. Do you recommend an expansion slot or a WiFi USB key?

Also, with the new build, do I need to plug the chassis fans to the PSU or motherboard? I can do both... Which is better and why?

Are these temps OK?


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

if you plug them into the motherboard then your BIOS will control the speed of them. i.e when things are getting hot they will speed up and when things are cool they wont. If you plug them directly into the psu they will run at a constant speed all the time.

expansion card or key doesn't really matter imo, I go hardwired so i don't bother with wifi.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Bruce, does plugging the chassis fan into the mb put more strain on the board? What if I decided to connect only one fan to the mb and the other I kept with the PSU (since I think I only have one chassis fan port on my board).. would that mess things up?

If you had to choose between the two, which would you buy? USB key or expansion slot?


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

You can do which ever way you want. Adding them to the board will only add a very small amount of power there should be no concern in that regard.

I would buy whatever was easiest at the time. If I was building a pc and was intending to go wireless then I would buy a card and put it in at the time of building. If I decided to go wireless on my current system then I would just buy a key.

Your temps are fine, check the BIOS as 16 degrees c on your cpu is very good. Always trust the BIOS over software.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

OK, I will get a usb key. And I will see if I have enough mb connectors for the case fans. Oh and yes, I know the BIOS is more accurate, thank you!


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

double check the cpu temp in the bios because i get 21 degress c at idle and i have a better cooler than you, although i am overclocked.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

OK, I can't log off at the moment since I restoring my files but I will do that in a bit. The CPU was at 3-6 degrees Celsius earlier though...

Rather than making a new thread and equally since this problem occurred when I transferred my 3TB drive over to the new build, I'll ask this here:

What is the problem here?










The drive works fine. I just restored all my files from it onto my new PC.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Just stick with a USB WiFi adapter. You can find them on ebay for pretty cheap.

As for that HDD software, I've never used it but I wouldn't worry. Hard drives are pretty much made to last for years however anything over that 1TB mark tend to have issues.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*



Masterchiefxx17 said:


> anything over that 1TB mark tend to have issues.


What do you mean by that? The drive in question is a 3TB. Should I verify the temps with another diagnostics utility?

Can you refer me to one that would be good for me that's cheap? My PC will be on the floor above where my router is set up.



greenbrucelee said:


> Your temps are fine, check the BIOS as 16 degrees c on your cpu is very good. Always trust the BIOS over software.


BIOS says CPU is 32C and mb is 28C.


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

thats more like it, didn't believe 16 degrees c


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*



Solidify said:


> Can you refer me to one that would be good for me that's cheap? My PC will be on the floor above where my router is set up.


One floor above "shouldn't" be a problem but signal strength depends on what is between the wireless router and the wireless receiver. 
I use and sell Linksys wireless products and have good luck with them.
A Wireless card is usually better than a USB type.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Can you refer me to a suitable wireless card? I'm on a budget that's why, I only want to get it if it's cheap because the computer is a spare now so it's not urgent. My old board is the Intel DG31PR.. so you know which slots I have.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Brand & Model of the wireless router you have and what's the budget?


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*



Solidify said:


> Can you refer me to a suitable wireless card? I'm on a budget that's why, I only want to get it if it's cheap because the computer is a spare now so it's not urgent. My old board is the Intel DG31PR.. so you know which slots I have.


This will work:

Mini 150Mbps USB Wireless WiFi Adapter LAN Network Adapter 802 11 RT5370 Chip | eBay


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

I would be hesitant to suggest a USB device considering the distance and barriers between the wireless source and the PC. But, for the price it may be worth trying.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

I've used them before. They work just fine for everyday usage.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*



Solidify said:


> My PC will be on the floor above where my router is set up.





Tyree said:


> I would be hesitant to suggest a USB device considering the distance and barriers between the wireless source and the PC.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

So what would you suggest Tyree?


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

I would go with a PCI card as they offer better reception.
For $5, you could certainly give the USB dongle a try.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

I bought the dongle. I'll let you know if it's sufficient when it arrives or if I need help choosing a PCI card. Thanks to the both of you.

For the build in my signature...

Windows only says 2.98GB of RAM is usable. If I upgrade to a 64-bit version of my OS, will that allow me to use all 4GB of my RAM? I saw some threads of users using 64-bit versions of W7 and still not being able to use more than 2.98GB.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Windows 7 32bit only can see 3GB. That doesn't mean it won't use all 4GB.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

OK, so I'm good?


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## Flight Sim Guy (Dec 19, 2011)

If you updated to a 64bit OS you would use all of your RAM, and could add more if you wanted. I personally love having 8GB.:grin:


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*



Flight Sim Guy said:


> If you updated to a 64bit OS you would use all of your RAM, and could add more if you wanted. I personally love having 8GB.:grin:


I don't understand what it means to be "using" all of my RAM... MaasterCheif said even though Windows can't detect the full 4GB I have installed, my PC may very well be using all of it. Can you explain this to me? I would just like to be able to use the full potential of my computer. If that means upgrading to a 64-bit version of my OS, I will.


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## Flight Sim Guy (Dec 19, 2011)

You'll have to have Chief or Tyree explain fully, but I believe a 32bit system only uses around 3-3.5GB RAM.


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## gcavan (Aug 13, 2009)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Not a matter of what the operating system will 'use'; iIt will use only what it needs. The issue is that a 32 bit OS has a limited address space. 

If you do the math (2 multiplied by itself 32 times) a 32bit OS has a physical address space of just over four billion.Subtract from that the address space reserved for other devices in your PC, you have around 3.25 GB left for physical system memory.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*



gcavan said:


> If you do the math (2 multiplied by itself 32 times) a 32bit OS has a physical address space of just over four billion.Subtract from that the address space reserved for other devices in your PC, you have around 3.25 GB left for physical system memory.


You lost me here.

Also, is it necessary to add fans to the mounts for my case that are not being used or can I keep my case like it is (with the stock 120mm rear exhaust fan and the stock 120mm front intake fan) if I have no problem with the internal components temperature and case airflow? In other words, adding more fans won't cool anything down more, would it?


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## Flight Sim Guy (Dec 19, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

He's saying that a 32bit system will probably only use about 3.25GB of the 4GB of RAM available.

Unless you have overheating issues you should be fine with just front and back ones. That's all I use. I would actually think that a top/side one would mess up the airflow.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*



> He's saying that a 32bit system will probably only use about 3.25GB of the 4GB of RAM available.


Is there a way to find out if I'm utilizing all 4GB ofr ram with my 32-bit OS? Or better yet, is there a way to to find out for sure if I upgrade to 64-bit OS of W7, will all 4GB be "usable" and Windows refers to it?


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## Flight Sim Guy (Dec 19, 2011)

A 32bit OS can't utilize a full 4GB, and yes, a 64bit OS would utilize all of it.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*



> A 32Bit operation system supports up to 4GB of memory, however not all of it may be available for use by applications.
> 
> If you only have 4GB of memory and do not plan to install any additional memory then I would install the 32Bit version as there is nothing to be gained by installing the 64Bit version. However if you plan to upgrade to 6 or more GB of memory sometime in the future then install the 64Bit version.
> 
> ...


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*



Solidify said:


> For the build in my signature...
> 
> Windows only says 2.98GB of RAM is usable. If I upgrade to a 64-bit version of my OS, will that allow me to use all 4GB of my RAM? I saw some threads of users using 64-bit versions of W7 and still not being able to use more than 2.98GB.


Upgrading to 4GB will allow the PC to see the full 4GB but is it worth investing another $100 for a 64Bit 7 OS to see that other 1GB?
Few games/apps can utilize over 3GB of RAM


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*



> If you only have 4GB of memory and do not plan to install any additional memory then I would install the 32Bit version as there is nothing to be gained by installing the 64Bit version.


That did it for me. I'll keep the 32-bit. Thanks guys.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

You're welcome and good luck.
Can we consider this thread as solved?


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Yes, feel free to mark is as solved but don't close it please as I may have other inquiries pertaining to my new build. Thanks again!

Can I get some closure/help with this post? I'm worried leaving it unattended since I have a lot of family media stored on that drive.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*



Solidify said:


> Yes, feel free to mark is as solved but don't close it please as I may have other inquiries pertaining to my new build. Thanks again!


Questions related to that thread should be addressed in that thread. Cross posting only adds confusion to an already long thread.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Indeed, that post is from this very thread. Post #19.



Solidify said:


> Rather than making a new thread and equally since this problem occurred when I transferred my 3TB drive over to the new build, I'll ask this here:
> 
> What is the problem here?
> 
> ...


Another question about this problem, which is still present. If I decided to my external HD out of its enclosure and just connect it to my computer internally via the SATA power and data cables, would this theoretically decrease it's temperature? Would doing so equally require more power from my PSU? What if I wanted to do this for my both my 3TB and 500GB external HDs for added convenience? Is it recommend or should I just keep them as external enclosures since they draw their own power that way without putting more stress on the PSU?

My up-to-date PC specs are in my signature to the left.


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

Seems to be saying your hard drive health isn't good due to airflow not being good.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Which is why I wanted to try dismounting it and putting it in the chassis which has better air flow. But at the same time am concerned about using extra PSU juice. Thoughts?


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

wont be an issue with power.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

It won't be an issue adding the 3TB to the chassis? What if I wanted to also add another 500GB internally. That's 4 internal 3.5 inch drives. Please see my specs and let me know if that would still be OK.



Masterchiefxx17 said:


> This will work:
> 
> Mini 150Mbps USB Wireless WiFi Adapter LAN Network Adapter 802 11 RT5370 Chip | eBay


So it finally arrived and the computer detected it and successfully installed the necessary drivers upon plugging it into a rear USB port. However, it was unable to connect to the internet. I tried the Windows troubleshooting and it generated the following *Troubleshooting Report*:



> Internet Connections Publisher details
> 
> Issues found
> A network cable is not properly plugged in or may be brokenA network cable is not properly plugged in or may be broken Not fixed Not Fixed
> ...


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Did you install the drivers on the CD included with the device? Windows doesn't always find/install the proper drivers/software required.
What is the distance and what objects are between the adapter and the router?
Those small devices "usually" require a direct line of site and close proximity to the source to work. The better option is a PCI-card.
Review Posts 25- 29- 31.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

The was no CD.
The PC is the floor right above the modem. There is nothing in betweetn them. When my sister used to use her laptop on that same room (where the PC is now) she had no connection issues (although she most likely had a stronger wireless card), you get my point...
Help me find the correct drivers for the dongle and then I'll try setting up the desktop right beside the modem to see if that helps.


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

you could probably add another 5 drives and put them in RAID and not effect the power.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*

The USB WiFi card should have came with a Driver CD. He listed it in the ad that it would.

If not you could try this driver:

Ralink RT61 Wireless Card V2 Driver 3.0.1.0 for Windows 7/Windows 8 Windows 8 driver download - Windows 8 Downloads


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*

Whoops! I bought this one by accident:

Wholesale 150Mbps 150M 802 11n Mini Wireless N WiFi USB Network LAN Adapter Card | eBay


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*

I linked you the one above because I knew it would come with the driver CD.

You could try a Realtek USB driver. But I have no idea which one will work correctly.

Realtek


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Solidify said:


> The was no CD.
> The PC is the floor right above the modem. There is nothing in betweetn them. When my sister used to use her laptop on that same room (where the PC is now) she had no connection issues (although she most likely had a stronger wireless card), you get my point...
> Help me find the correct drivers for the dongle and then I'll try setting up the desktop right beside the modem to see if that helps.


A floor above means there is a floor ,carpet, furniture etc. between the source and the receiver. 
Laptops, especially newer ones, commonly have a very good wi-fi card with very capable reception. 
I'm not saying that device will not work but those small devices have very poor reception.



Tyree said:


> Those small devices "usually" require a direct line of site and close proximity to the source to work. .


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*

There was a download link for the corresponding driver available on the description page. Missed it earlier. The dongle works now, although I must say, it is slowwwwwww. But, you get what you pay for, I guess.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*

It really shouldn't be that slow.

Post a screenshot of www.speedtest.net after the test has finished.

Try putting the device in the front USB ports.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*

My results with the dongle in the front port:
Speedtest.net - My Results










And below are the results from my computer that is connected via an ethernet cable:

Speedtest.net - My Results


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*

thats weird your upload speed is better than your download speed. Usually it's the other way around.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*

Well for the pc thats connected via ethernet it is the right way.


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*

I am always had wired via ethernet and have always had a better download than upload.


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## T_Rex (Oct 21, 2012)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*

I too have not seen that before your UL speeds are good but DL isn't (as compared with UL speed). Perhaps something is hindering it ... firewall or setting on the NIC throughput properties.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*

I'll try running the test again.

Edit:

Speedtest.net - My Results


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*



greenbrucelee said:


> I am always had wired via ethernet and have always had a better download than upload.


Ditto ^ My download is always about 75% faster than my upload using cable and wired.

Results in Post #71 resemble dial up speed. Personally, I would seek a better wireless device.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*

It may be the lack of a driver that is causing the issue.

Its the reason I linked you the one above is due to the driver CD.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*



Masterchiefxx17 said:


> It may be the lack of a driver that is causing the issue.
> 
> Its the reason I linked you the one above is due to the driver CD.


I found the driver on the product page. When I installed it, the dongle then worked. So I don't think it's the driver that's the issue. I think it's the distance/interference and that the dongle isn't strong enough to cover that much ground because there are often disconnects. and even when I have a connection, it's very week. It's not somehting that's urgent so I'll just use it as is for now and keep an eye out for sales for PCIe cards.

But I have another question about my new build...

My F1A55-M LE R2.0 board has the following Internal I/O Ports:

1 x CPU Fan connector(s) 
1 x Chassis Fan connector(s) 
1 x Power Fan connector(s) 

I have 2 chassis fans and one CPU fan. Would connecting the second chassis fan to the port labelled PWR_FAN still provide me with everything that connecting it to a CHASSIS_FAN would (i.e.: monitoring the fan speed)? Or is it not recommended to plug a case fan to the PWR_FAN port?

I don't want use the molex adapters for the case fans because they'd be running all the time and don't allow me to monitor the fan speeds.


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## gcavan (Aug 13, 2009)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*

Would not present a problem. The fan will probably run at full speed (or nearly so) but it still should be monitored by your preferred software.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*



gcavan said:


> Would not present a problem. The fan will probably run at full speed (or nearly so) but it still should be monitored by your preferred software.


Can anyone back this up? Not that I don't trust you gcavan but you don't seem too sure and I'd feel more at ease if someone else told me it was OK as well.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*

The PWR_Fan header "should" make the fan run at full RPM, the same as using a Molex. The Molex is the better option as it takes load off the Mobo.
Monitoring fan speeds is more of a novelty than a useful application.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*



> Monitoring fan speeds is more of a novelty than a useful application.


I didn't want to connect the chassis fans to the board solely to monitor their speeds. I was interested in doing so since I read up that the board can change the fan speed/RPM based on the required load, rather than having them running at full speed all the time.

I tried plugging the second and final chassis fan to the PWR_FAN port but it did not reach that far so I couldn't do it. I think that's why the manufacturer supplied the case with a 3-pin to molex adapter. 

Oh well, I'll keep it like I have it now:

1 chassis fan connected to a fan header and the 2nd chassis fan connected to the molex


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## gcavan (Aug 13, 2009)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*

You are correct. I am not absolutely certain. Mostly because I am not familiar with that specific board. I can only state how most boards operate, and that is: Any fan or LED connected to the PWR_Fan header is supplied with approx 11 volts constant and if the sense line (yellow) is connected the board monitors the speed of the fan in RPM (provided it is enabled in BIOs).


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*

Either way it doesn't reach so I can't do it. I'll keep it with the molex. Thanks though.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*

My computer went off during a city-wide power-outage. Everything works fine but what are some ways I can check for subtle damages, if they did occur (the PC was running when the outage occurred and I don't have a surge suppressor/protector).


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*

if it works don't worry about it.

No need to be so highly strung if that is the correct term, if stuff works its ok, of it doesn't then it isn't.

Some PCs can take a lot to damage them, some can't. If you buy quality equipment then the chances of it dying are less than if you buy cheap crap.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

OK. By the way, do all surge protectors protect against power outages? Thinking of finally getting one...


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## gcavan (Aug 13, 2009)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Surge protectors protect against just that. Voltages surges or spikes such as those caused by a nearby lightning strike or transformer failure. It will not protect against an outage or a low voltage condition. For that you would need much more complex line conditioning equipment, such as an Uninterruptible Power Source (UPS)


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

What would you recommend if I just want something to protect my computer in the case that there is a power outage? I don't have any voltage surges or spikes in my area.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

This should do the trick:

APC P1T SurgeArrest Notebook 1 Outlet 120V Surge Protector w Phone Line Protect 1462608436714 | eBay


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## gcavan (Aug 13, 2009)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

For that you require a UPS. A UPS is generally not used to power your equipment during extended power outages, but to allow you time to save your work and safely shut down your PC. They will also give you protection against surges and spikes. APC and Cyberpower are the most widely available brands in North America.

I use one of these to carry my main PC and my NAS. Will allow you to work through short outages; automatically powers down the PC in the event of an extended outage. This particular model will power the average PC for 15-20 minutes.

APC BACK-UPS Pro 1000 Power Saving Uninterruptible Power Supply 1000VA 600W


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*



Masterchiefxx17 said:


> This should do the trick:
> 
> APC P1T SurgeArrest Notebook 1 Outlet 120V Surge Protector w Phone Line Protect 1462608436714 | eBay


How do I use this? I just plug my PSU's power cord into this and then the wall outlet?


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## gcavan (Aug 13, 2009)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

That is a surge protector. Will not protect from an outage.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&amp;amp;A Thread*



greenbrucelee said:


> if it works don't worry about it.
> 
> No need to be so highly strung if that is the correct term, if stuff works its ok, of it doesn't then it isn't.
> 
> Some PCs can take a lot to damage them, some can't. If you buy quality equipment then the chances of it dying are less than if you buy cheap crap.


Btw, i ran a checkdisk and it made some corrections. Works well now. Fast startup. What could that have been? Said something about unused sectors being marked as unallocated...


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*



Solidify said:


> How do I use this? I just plug my PSU's power cord into this and then the wall outlet?


Yes. That plugs into the wall outlet then your PC plugs into your system.

If you want something to keep the PC on while the power is out then you'll need what gcavan recommended. Otherwise my link is what you want.



gcavan said:


> That is a surge protector. Will not protect from an outage.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Bare with me for one final reaffirmation:

A surge protector/suppressor protects the computer and its internal components from "Voltages surges or spikes such as those caused by a nearby lightning strike or transformer failure". Without a surge protector, what kind of damage could a spike do to the internal components of a computer that a mere power outage can't?

The reason I ask this is because I would like to know if spikes or unexpected voltage surges are the only ways that computers can get damaged or can they also get damaged by not being powered down properly (i.e.: a power outage)? If the latter is also true, then I will opt for the UPS. If a power outage can't harm the computer, (although I'd still consider it) I don't think I'll get anything since I've never had a problem with spikes in my area.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

The surge protector protects the PC is a surge comes through your house. Not from the PC, the PC doesn't create a surge.

Read more about it here:

HowStuffWorks "How Surge Protectors Work"

A UPS really isn't needed unless you have items running on the PC that can't be lost due to a power outage.


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## Fjandr (Sep 26, 2012)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

A surge suppressor is a must. While it doesn't happen often in most areas a lightning strike or transformer explosion can destroy every electronic component attached directly to the electrical grid.

I keep a couple surge-obliterated electronic components in my tool case as an object lesson to those who are on the fence about adequate surge suppression. My favorite company line is the Tripp Lite Isobars, but APC makes good suppressors too. I like Tripp Lite as a result of seeing first-hand the type of surges they'll protect against (one of which melted all other suppressors in the neighborhood into puddles of molten plastic) and for the fact that all they require to ship a replacement for a damaged unit is a phone call with the serial number. No equipment exchange necessary. They have a lifetime connected equipment warranty of something like $100,000 for equipment damaged while connected to one of their suppressors.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

I found this one:

APC Performance SurgeArrest 11 Outlet with Phone (Splitter) and Coax Protection, 120V

but it says:



> Nominal Input Voltage 120V


What does that mean? I live in Canada.

I don't know if I need to select as the input voltage for the surge supressor

120V (110V-125V)
OR
230V (220V-250V)

or Even the amount of joules...


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## Fjandr (Sep 26, 2012)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

That's a good suppressor.

Canada uses the same electrical standards as the US, so you want one with 120V input.

That suppressor will suppress up to 3020 joules of incoming surge energy.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

OK. But the TripLite Surge Suppressor Selector is asking me how many joules I want the suppresor to protect against. How do I know? Do I just leave that field blank? I like the APC surge protector I linked you above, however i would still like to see what prices/products Triplite offers since they have a better warranty.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

I think I'm going to buy the APC one I linked you earlier. The triplite ones are far too expensive for protection I don't need. I just want to verify a couple of things before I buy it:



> Input Breaker Capacity 15.0 A


What does this mean? The breaker that powers the outlet for which my computer's components are connected to is a 15 A breaker (which you can see in the picture below, breaker number 22). Will the APC surge protector be suitable? _(P.S.: Don't mind how I organized the panel/blue numbers, it wad done wrong and needs to be relabelled).
_











> Surge energy rating 3020 Joules


Does this mean that the surge protector can only protect against a maximum of 3020 joules of electrical current, implying that any spike or surge containing more than 3020 joules of current will potentially damage any connected equipment? If that is the case, how do I know if 3020 joules of protection is sufficient or if I need a higher amount?


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

I think your worrying about this to much. The APC unit is a fine and a unit that should never fail on you.

The protection is WAY higher then you could ever need it to.



> This rating, given in joules, tells you how much energy the surge protector can absorb before it fails. A higher number indicates greater protection. Look for a protector that is at least rated at 200 to 400 joules. For better protection, look for a rating of 600 joules or more.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

OK. One last thing: does this website look legitimate? I found it for free shipping there..

APC P11VT3 APC PERFORMANCE SURGEARREST 11 OUTLET W/TEL2/SPLTR & COAX 120


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## gcavan (Aug 13, 2009)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Looks as legit as any. Have never dealt with but they are a division of 1Click2Computer (1C2C.ca). Based in Mississauga.
http://www.1c2c.com/ecuisp/~1c2c/lec/plugin/index/framePage_2.jsp?location=../index.jsp

See the 'Contact Us' pages for mailing and email addresses and phone numbers.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Looks fine. I purchased it. 32$ even for a great 11 port APC suppresor. Wasn't going to pass that up. Thanks everyone.


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## Fjandr (Sep 26, 2012)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Sorry I didn't get back to you. Anything in the Isobar line would have been fine. Something like this: Tripp Lite Isobar 6 Ultra Ultra 6 Outlet Diagnostic Surge Suppressor 12A 120VAC | eBay

Buying them used is not an issue since they don't require warranty transfers.

The APC unit you bought should do just as well though.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*



> Buying them used is not an issue since they don't require warranty transfers.


I don't exactly understand how the surge protector works but isn't there something inside it, almost like a fuse that sacrifices itself to avoid damage to the connected equipment? If it's a used surge protector, wouldn't those _fuses_ be either weakened or not able to protect against a surge for the new owner's equipment?



> The APC unit you bought should do just as well though.


I'll only be getting it in in 14 days at the earliest. The website emailed me and said it's out of stock but it was a good deal so I said I'd wait.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Google is your friend. Surge Protector: Surge protector - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


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## Fjandr (Sep 26, 2012)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Yes, they can fail with time. The units are equipped with indicator lights to tell you that the suppression components have failed. At that point the lifetime warranty kicks into effect and you contact the company for replacement.

I've been using the same surge suppressors for many years, and have yet to have one fail that was not the result of a catastrophic electrical surge.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Everyone has told me that a UPS (the device that allows me to power down my computer safely) is not needed since an improper shutdown cannot harm my computer components and only a surge can do such. But why is there always so much preoccupation with powering down a computer properly (i.e.: not just unplugging the power cable from the PSU) if doing so won't harm the components?


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## Fjandr (Sep 26, 2012)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

While it isn't likely to harm your components, improperly shutting down a machine can cause data corruption. This is much more likely if you are using a RAID array that doesn't have battery-backed write caching, which is why UPS units are more commonly attached to enterprise machines than to home machines.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

OK, that makes sense. Thanks.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Unplugging the power cord to any electrical device can cause damage and there is no reason to do so except in an emergency situation.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*



Tyree said:


> Unplugging the power cord to any electrical device can cause damage and there is no reason to do so except in an emergency situation.


Wouldn't the equivalent of unplugging the power cord to a device be a power outage, therefore implying that a power outage can indeed cause damage to any electrical devices?


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

If it happens once in a while nothing's going to get damaged all too bad.

If you get a lot of power outages then it might become a concern.

I personally at my home don't get power outages it's pretty rare since my power cables are under ground.

Knowing that we don't many power outages I still like to put surge protectors on basically anything that is worth a lot of money. I also have three backup batteries, powering the main desktop, router, home phone line, modem, and alarm system.

As long as you have the surge you should be alright. The backup battery is just a nice thing to have.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Wow, nice setup MC. Wish I had everything under control like that. Gosh, you even thought of the alarm. Good stuff! And thanks, that answers my question. We don't get many outages also so I'll just use the surge suppressor when it arrives.

What else besides a computer setup would you recommend I get a surge protector for? I only have two more electronic areas in my house:


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Don't worry about the tube TV. They aren't worth anything plus new flat screens are becoming so cheap it's easy to replace if it dies from a surge.

I would recommend you get a surge protector for the Xbox and flat screen TV. Those are two items you don't want to buy again.

Edit: What is that DVD player doing with the old tube TV? :grin: Get it hooked up to the flat screen! :thumb:


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

True.

Well I'd need a surge protector for only 2 plugs. I don't want to spend money on a 6 outlet suppressor that'll only be making use of 2 outlets. Where can I find a small inexpensive suppressor for the Xbox and flat screen?


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## Fjandr (Sep 26, 2012)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

isoblok | eBay


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Thanks fjandr.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

For $9.00 shipped to your house you can get a six plug:

APC P6W Surge Suppressor - Newegg.com


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*



> What is that DVD player doing with the old tube TV? Get it hooked up to the flat screen!


Haha, it's with the tube TV because my mom watches TV upstairs so sometimes she wants to watch films. I have my Xbox downstairs that can play my DVDs, plus the Samsung TV has USB ports that I can watch my movies on by putting them on my thumb-drive. Plus that is an old DVD player that isn't even DivX certified so its not worth much for my business.. But thanks for the suggestion! :grin:

Mc, I order from .ca, so the prices are different, can't stand it: Newegg.ca - APC P6W 6 Outlets 1000 J SurgeArrest Essential Surge Suppressor


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Humm that kinda sucks! :ermm:

Here it is for a little cheaper:

APC Surgearrest Essential P6W 6 Outlets Surge Suppressor Receptacles | eBay


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Ah it's OK. That Xbox is on its way out anyway. I've modded it back and forth and torn it apart several times and everything is broken inside. Not sure how it still runs. And the Tv, well, I don't see how a surge can damage the TV.. it'll just turn off. All I'm saying is that it's not really pressing for that basement setup. The only other device connected there is a rented HD PVR so if anything happens to that, my ISP will replace it.

I know what you're thinking. I buy a 600$ TV but cheap out on a 15$ surge protector lol.. yep, I'm weird like that. But nothing has ever happened there and my Xbox has been there since Halo 3 came out so I'm not worried. If I start getting more outages, I'll buy the surge protector for there.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

If you want to buy just a single unit there is also this:

APC single outlet travel surge protector with phone line protection, 120V


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Thanks but I'm gonna pass for now. Also, I love the way that single outlet surge protector is almost double the cost of the 6 outlet one haha

Edit: nvm, didn't see it has line cable protectors at the bottom


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Let us know if you have any more questions.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*



Masterchiefxx17 said:


> Let us know if you have any more questions.


If not, please mark the thread as solved.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: My New Build Q&A Thread*

Yeah, I'll mark the thread as solved but I'll keep it open incase I ever need to post anything about my new build.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Bit the bullet and ended up just buying the second suppressor from the same site that I purchased the first from, they have free shipping and great prices: APC P62 APC Essential SurgeArrest 6 Outlet 2 Foot Cord, 120V


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## Fjandr (Sep 26, 2012)

Most surges won't cause catastrophic damage to CRT-based electronics; they'll just kill them quietly. I have seen a couple that ended in a large flash of sparks and large quantities of electronics smoke though.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Ok so it's a good thing I ended up buying the surge protector for my TV setup in that case right?


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