# Antec Trio 650w and Gateway GT5028 troubles



## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

My problem is that the Antec Trio 650w doesn't work in my computer, while the original power supply does. The key phrase here is "in my computer".

CompUSA sold me an Antec Trio 650w ATX power supply ($70 on sale). And while the cables coming out of that thing look like an mad alien squid when compared to my OEM power supply (a 300w Bestec - see specs below), I managed to find all the connections, and connected everything I needed. I had a lot of cables left over. I screwed the power supply to the case and...

No power.

I disconnected everything but the two motherboard connectors (the 20/24-pin and the square 4-pin), and same thing - no power. But when I conenct my old supply to the same two connectors and press the power button - I get power.

I took both power supplies to CompUSA, where a tech hooked them up to a tester (see link) and found the both supplies test the same - all lights on the tester showed green except the -5 volt light, which is correct. And the tester showed that both supplies are 12v.

I took the supply back home and same thing - no power. I don't get it.

My original Bestec Power Supply specs: http://support.gateway.com/s/POWER/100929/100929sp2.shtml

The Antec Truepower Trio 650w Power Supply specs:
http://www.antec.com/us/productDetails.php?ProdID=23650

The power supply tester used at CompUSA:
http://www.compusa.com/products/product_info.asp?pfp=cat3&product_code=332184


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

P.S. : Here's my computer specs :
Gateway GT5028 : http://support.gateway.com/s/PC/R/5876/5876nv.shtml
I have 2GBs memory, a Soundblaster Live! soundcard, and a PNY 7600GS graphics card installed. I want to upgrade the graphics card.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

please give us the model numer of your besteq PSU



the four pin cpu power plug you are using is not the one that seperates from the 20 +4 motherboard connector is it ????? this is a common error


the correct 4-pin cpu power plug has a plastic snap lock latch and has two yellow wires and two black wires

please elaborate on the info above ????


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Thanks for replying Linderman. It was you and another team member who responded to my previous post about >> finding the right kind of power supply <<. 

The model number of the Bestec power supply that came with my computer is : "ATX-300-12E Rev D". That's read directly off the power supply label. The link to the specs are in my first post.

I used the 4-pin connector that you described (2 yellow, 2 black), which is not the 4-pin addition to the 20-pin motherboard connector. 

Of note : The Bestec motherboard cable is a 20-pin connector; however the motherboard accepts (has the slots available) to accept a 24-pin connector. I tried both configurations (20 and 24 pin) without success. The 4-pin connector that you described (2 yellow, 2 black) was plugged into it's own 4-pin slot for both tests. 

Lastly - and I'll caveat this by stating that I know nothing about electricity - I think one of 4 scenarios exist :

1) the soft-switch (that's what I'm calling the power-on button on the front of the computer) doesn't generate enough juice to tell the new, more powerful supply to turn on,

2) the new supply from what I was told at CompUSA has a power fluctuation test that it performs prior to starting (which the old supply does not do), and it's finding the the power coming from my outlets is not steady enough (though I've never seen any visual evidence of fluctuating power),

3) The outlet doesn't generate enough juice to power the supply because it's wired along a string of other outlets that siphon their own power, 

4) or it's something else.


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## speedster123 (Oct 18, 2006)

its possible the trio is defective, it must happen sometime after all..
i just replaced a 250 besteq in an hp pavilion with a 550 trio, to avoid future issues, no problems. of course i used an empty drive bay to store the wild snakes coming out of the antec.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

I would take that power supply back to compusa and ask for another


you should not have this issue; you are doing everything right 


oen last note : compare side by side the 20 pin motherboard connector of both power supplies / are the position of the colored wires matching ???


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Anything's possible including that the Trio is defective in a way that's not detected by the tester the CompUSA guy hooked it up to, because it tested ok (the specs to the tester used are in my first post).

But I'll check the colored wires sequence against the good power supply like you said. If I infer correctly, you mean that wire color is standard, so any two supplies should share the same color-coded wiring sequence. If the sequence doesn't match, that's a problem. My guess is that they'll match since they both tested good, but I'll be sure to check.

And bottom line, I will exchange the supply at CompUSA. And I'll buy a tester that I mentioned in my first post. If the exchanged supply doesn't work, I'll then open the tester and let you know what I find out.

I'll exchange it tonight after work. Either way good or bad I'll post the result. 

PS : That's more or less where I crammed the unused cables into my machine too. That supply is like a hydra.


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## speedster123 (Oct 18, 2006)

> That supply is like a hydra


:laugh:


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Ok, I exchanged the power supply for another Trio 650, and I bought the tester I referred to in my first post. In short, same thing is still happening - new supply is not working in the computer.

It's weird. It's frustrating. I don't know what to say. So I ran both power supplies through the tester here at my home, and both supplies checked out. The result was both supplies lit up all the testing lights except the -5v, and both tested as a 12v supply.

Now there is a discrepancy between the wiring of the larger 20/24-pin color-coded wiring. 

But this is hard to explain clearly with words. So what I'd like to do is post a short video of me plugging in both supplies to the motherboard and then to the tester. And I'd like to show you a comparison of each supply's 20/24-pin motherboard cable structure. That way you can see what I see and what I'm doing, and it'll address a bunch of questions, and most importantly it'll save time. So where can I post a video, say 1 or 2 minutes long or so?

If your answer's YouTube, fine. But if there's a better place, let me know.

Thanks again.

Just to recap : The Bestec supply is what came with and what works in the computer. The Antec supply is new, and despite it testing good, it does not work in the computer.


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## speedster123 (Oct 18, 2006)

how old is this computer?
from *antec *faq's
Why is my 20 + 4 pin connector missing a wire? 
The missing wire is a -5V wire, it was removed from the Intel standard years ago. All current Antec Power Supplies do not have this wire. If you are in need of this wire you will have to find an older ATX 1.3 compliant power supply. For more information on this topic please visit http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/ATX12V PSDG2.01.pdf


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

please email me your video clip 


check your PM's = private messages (located in the upper right hand corner of this web page



regards

joe


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

The computer was bought from BestBuy during April 2006.

As far as the wire configuration between the two supplies being different, and the Antec possibly missing the -5v wire : Both power supplies lit up the tester the same way, and neither power supply test lit up the -5v light. So I don't think my original supply uses or needs a -5v wire. If it did, then the -5v light would have been lit up on the test - right? 

I know zip about electricity, but I think that would be the case.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

you are correct any motherboard made in the last 2-3 years doesnt use the 15v pin thats why most all supplies dropped that pin & wire / thats of no concern to you here, but the conversation keeps this thread thorough. ray:


I have never heard of such a problem between compatible ATX wired systems >>>> although I havent looked at your wiring pics yet ? will do that by end of day.


if it were me; I would be taking this machine back to best buy to find out why the motherboard is doing this ?????

although it may well be cheaper just to put another motherboard in the system and be done with it ?????

what are the specs of your current system
'
we may be able to find a cheap motherboard that will give you "more" anyway >>>>> knowing the Geeks they dont use very good motherboards usually, thats how they keep their build prices down, personally I dont try to compete on the low dollar end of things, but rather offer better speed, realiability and free warranty service calls parts and labor for one full year >>>>>> many of my system builds come in for video card upgrade and I install that as a freebie >>>>> they also NEVER need a new PSU either I put good ones in to start :4-thatsba

keep us posted and let us know how you want to proceed


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

I had company over last night, so I shot the video after they left. I haven't placed subtitles and converted it. I will do that tonight. This will give me the chance to try out a video-editing program I bought a few months ago.

I shot three things :

1) plugging each supply into the computer
2) plugging each supply into the tester
3) comparing each supply's wiring on the motherboard wiring connector

As far as your suggestion : I'm not sure if the pre-packaged OEM-certified Operating System would work without the OEM-motherboard. And the Geeks already had my system for about a month last year, but that's a whole other story with no small amount of you-Geeks-are-doing-what-??? frusteration.

Part of me that wants to build a custom system, but $200 for the Windows operating system. I prefer Windows (XP, that is) for all the software and games. Part of me is also hesitant cause I am not so technically minded. 

Part of me knows that despite the drawbacks, pre-built, box-store-sold systems are within my budget and expectations. I all my upgrades I've never come across such an obstacle. Darn this power supply issue (my first PS upgrade ever, at that)! 

Financially pre-builts, for me, also make sense : spend $600 for the box and $300 on initial RAM, graphics, sound, and LCD upgrades. Then a year or two later, upgrade the power and graphics for another $200 net (selling/handing down), and I'm good for another 2 years. So for 4 years and $1100 - $1200 I have my system. Maybe the self-build system would have been cheaper, but would it last for 4 years at that price? 

I have three computers in my home : mine, my son's and my godson's. So I have the option of either selling or handing down parts I don't use, which either way saves me money on a future upgrade purchase.

I give credence to your suggestion, because I always consider building my own system instead of purchasing a pre-built. I understand the pros. It's the cons that are unfamiliar. This is a whole other topic though. It's tantalizing though despite the OS purchase price. 

Anyway, you'll have the vids tonight.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

I dont think the OEM OS will prohibit you from swapping motherboards; 

but in the event you are unable to install an OS with your current disks / dont sweat that one


you could always borrow a win xp disk from a friend / as long as the versions are the same >>>>> if your system is win xp home you must use a friends disk with win xp home >>>>> you MUST use your 25 character install key code to stay legit; but that's no biggie

you do have a right to replace a defective motherboard within the bounds of your win xp license!

as far as the challenges of replacing a motherboard; its not nearly as difficult as you might think. I could make a video for you to watch; its your call but I think there is a strong chance you have a flaky motherboard, and seldom do the geeks sell top notch motherboards as they are too absorbed with price tag's >>>> in order to keep profit margins they use 3rd tier motherboard manufacturers

you call, but many find solice in the independence gained from fixing your own system, although it may not be cheaper; the level of quality and dependability & performance is significantly improved 

food for thought


best regards 

joe


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Ok, I sent the vids.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

hello


check your PM;s


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## Doby (Jan 17, 2006)

Hey guys just a thought, check the caps on the motherboard for bulged or leaking, had a HP in the shop last week that was freesing and random rebooting, swaped in a known working antec, same thing would not post, put the original in and it posted.

Thru closer inspection had 5 leaking capacitores


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

thanks for the tip *Doby *ray:


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

Hello




got your videos / nice job by the way ray:


the wiring on your two PSU's is close enough match to rule out the Bestec being a special PSU with its own different wiring pattern

at this point, I am going to say motherboard replacement


if you are on a budget / give me your complete system specs and I can point you to a motherboard for less than $80.00


if you are not budget restricted , we can point you to the upper levels of performance :wink:


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

This is funny  I mean it. Really, this is funny. I'm not frustrated or anything. I'm learning TONS on this forum. ray: But this is becoming analogous to swapping out the transmission in order to get the car to run with the engine i had to buy just so I can try out those new fancy spark plugs I bought two weeks ago. :laugh: 

And that's cool. I'm cool with it, as long as you can answer these questions for me that will help me determine my next step :

1) What hidden (unknown to me) benefit do I receive with a motherboard change out / upgrade, besides the obvious one which in this case is being able to get that graphics card upgrade to work. I mean would an upgraded motherboard lend me the ability to upgrade the processor at a later date to say an AMD dual-core whatever-number CPU (what's top of the line nowdays - 5000, 6000)?

2) And this three-part question may limit the answer to my first question : But will I be able to use the CPU from this board in the new board? And will I still be able to use my same speed RAM with the new board? And at what point does RAM speed limit my ability to upgrade the CPU, cause I use PC3200 and I know the big thing nowdays is 5300 or greater, right? So at what point does the new-CPU/old-RAM combination stop working? I imagine that answer depends on the motherboard, so I guess the question is what motherboard can I upgrade the CPU on the most and still use PC3200 RAM?

3) The operating system - you mentioned before that I'd have to use the "key" that came with my computer if I needed to install a clean copy of a friend's Windows disks? Is that the Windows XP Media Center Edition Product Key some 25 characters long on the sticker on my computer case?

I'm going to try to get you the information about my computer that you've asked for. But I may forget something, or whatnot. Is there a program that I can run to provide you a report of my system's components? Something like ThisIsEverythingYouNeedToKnowAboutMyComputer.exe

And last, $80 is within my price range - perhaps even slightly more, really depends on the benefits. If it turns out that I need a complete overhaul to bring my system to the next levels, then I just may consider keeping this one as-is and eventually handing it down to my son while I go ahead and consider building (yes, consider building :grin my first box. And if so, then I already got the power supply to go in it. :smile:

Thanks for the compliment on the videos, and for your help.

- Eric


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

akedm said:


> This is funny  I mean it. Really, this is funny. I'm not frustrated or anything. I'm learning TONS on this forum. ray: But this is becoming analogous to swapping out the transmission in order to get the car to run with the engine i had to buy just so I can try out those new fancy spark plugs I bought two weeks ago. :laugh:
> 
> And that's cool. I'm cool with it, as long as you can answer these questions for me that will help me determine my next step :
> 
> ...


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Hi,

It sure is getting busy here around the holidays. So this thread is falling down my list of priorities and will likely remain low on the list until at least Christmas Day passes. 

I haven't forgotten about it, so I wanted to let you know that I'll return to this thread (or reference this thread in a new one if this is closed) as soon as the things slow down somewhat.

Meanwhile the local CompUSA store here in Anchorage, Alaska IS STILL OPEN, meaning it is not one of the dozens now closed around the nation. However, it too will close after the holidays according to some bulliten I read. Any actions you think I should take or items I may consider getting a deal on before the store closes would be appreciated.

- Eric
Anchorage, Alaska


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Hello,

Yesterday a service tech guy at BestBuy said, after telling him of the troubles I've had with replacing my power supply in my GT5028 (thread linked below), that I could bring in my computer and while I'm there they can test every power supply they sell there in my system for free, as long as I say I want the supplies tested - not installed - they will do it for free instead of the $50 install fee. He said they keep a unit of all the models they sell open behind the counter, so this will be a nice test if that's true. Sounds like a good deal and looking at their site they sell models by Thermaltake, Antec, BFG, Dynex (house brand), and Rocketfish (???), so the variety should yield something.

I managed to pop the Antec Trio 650w PS that was mentioned in this forum into the new computer I purchased a month ago and am upgrading (thread here). It's working beautifully in that system with plenty of power to spare. 

I an re-visiting this thread because I'm still out of luck on this system, but this piece of news yesterday may help me, and in turn anyone else who's interested. At this point it's just FYI, but I'll keep posting the results.

- Eric


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Whatever you do don't buy a RocketFish or Dynex PSU


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

*


wrench97 said:



Whatever you do don't buy a RocketFish or Dynex PSU

Click to expand...

*

NOR BFG either !!


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

I finally got my computer to Bestbuy but they had only two brands of supplies behind the counter, Dynex and BFG. Now get this: They BOTH worked on my computer.

The Antec Trio 650w must just be a strange duck against this type of motherboard. 

So the good news is that I can upgrade my graphics card and power supply in this computer and get another year or two out of it. Woohoo!!! 

I'm going to try a few other places around town that arent box stores but small business computer repair shops. Maybe they'll have a Corsair or something around. Then I'll let you know the results and at that time I'll probably go ahead and get one off newegg.com or somewhere similar.

Stay tuned.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

you DEFINTELY have a defective antec if the other run your system correctly ..........


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Recap :

Only the original power supply that came with my computer seemed to be the only power supply that would work with my computer for the longest time. Two Antec Trio 650w supplies that I tried would not work on it, even though I tested both with a tester and they both read just like the original supply. One of the Antecs (the other was returned) is now powering my other computer just fine. Who know what's happening : Linderman took a look at three comparative videos I made and suggested this :



> the wiring on your two PSU's is close enough match to rule out the Bestec being a special PSU with its own different wiring pattern. at this point, I am going to say motherboard replacement


 - post #20 of this thread.

Later I took my computer into BestBuy where I bought it from and had them test whatever supplies their techies had on my system, and they all tested fine booting up my system. But none were recommended by the TSF team. Nonetheless the news was good for a PS upgrade, and maybe the Trio is just a strange configuration for this system.

So I went out and bought from newegg this power supply with a 80-plus certified rating, and it's not working in my system either. I tested it in the other system the Antec's powering, and it worked fine in there, so the supply is good, but I'm running up against the same problem.

Of note both this supply and the Antec share the same wiring structure which is different than the Bestec original supply, but as Linderman stated that doesnt appear to be an issue. 

Any ideas how to make this supply work in my system?

PS Edit : Does "Active PFC" mean anything?


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

active PFC = actively working Power Factor Correction


one more quick question ....... compare the color code of the wires on the Bestec ...... are they the same colors as the new power supplies you bought ?

you can change where some of the pins are, if need be


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Linderman,

I was heading to that same place you suggested: compare the wiring. I'm going to take it one step further too. I'm going to take my computer back to BestBuy for them to plug in those supplies that worked, but this time I'm taking my camera to record the wire sequence of those two supplies that worked. Then I'll post those pics along with wiring pics of the Bestec (original supply), Antec and the supply I just bought. 

Maybe then we'll see a pattern to work from. I'll probably do that tomorrow (Saturday), so I'll post again as soon as that's available.

----------------------------------------

On a side note, should I get a tester clarification of what's what for each wire? As long as such a thing is not cost prohibitive, I'm not against getting such a thing at my local Sears, BestBuy, Radio Shack or Fred Meyers, if you have a recommendation. But I dont know if I need a voltage tester, a wattage tester, a turkey baster, or something else. :grin: Thanks. ...maybe this or this?...


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

lets go with visual observations first .........


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Hello,

Well I got the computer to BestBuy but the Geeks could only get around to putting one power supply into it before closing: The BFG 800w that worked before, and yes it worked again. I got pictures of the power supply label and a front and back shot of the 20/24 plug wiring.

I'll also post the PS label and front and back 20/24 plug wiring of the Bestec that also works on my system, and of the Antec Trio 650w and the PC Power 610w both of which do not work. Let me know what you see. 

I'll post each PS separately here soon.


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Here's the Bestec information
Bestec 3002 power supply
This one works in my system (this is the original power supply)


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Here's the BFG information
BFG 800w power supply
This one works in my system too (as tested at Bestbuy - I cannot purchase one from there)
Here the newegg link to it including a label photo : 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817702004


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

(correction on Bestec two posts up - it's a 300w power supply, not a 3002 power supply)
and here's the specs from Gateway:
http://support.gateway.com/s/POWER/100929/100929sp2.shtml


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Here's the Antec information
Antec Trio 650w power supply
This one does not work on my GT5028 (I've tried two of this model)
It is powering another system just fine.
Here the newegg link to it including a label photo : 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371001


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Here's the PC Power & Cooling information
PCP&C Silencer 610 EPS12v power supply
This one does not work on my GT5028
It can power another system just fine.
Here the newegg link to it including a label photo : 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703005


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

ok, that's it.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

ok its really hard to tell because your pics of one type are *from the front *(you can see the plug hold down clasp)

the one from the BFG and the original one are taken *from the backside *(cant see the snap lock 

one theory that strikes me now is ......... are you sure you are inserting the antec or the PC power and cooling into the motherboard plug correctly ..??????? the snap lock is what orientates the plug ....... otherwise they can be 180 degrees incorrect

the best way to tell .......... your motherboards plug ....... look at it carefully ........ it should have on the pins is square ........ all the others will have a shape to them ........ the one that is completely square is the orientation pin............ now look closely at the diff in these supplies now ?????? and see if the wiring colors and locations match


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Could that brown wire on the red 5v run up the harness and splice into the gray PWR_OK ?


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

I am thinking something like that too wrench ..........

I was wrong about your pics ......... closer look as shown you have included front and back of each plug for each PSU well done


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Hi,

I took pics from both sides on all four connectors (front and back of the Bestec, front and back of the BFG, etc...). If you're not getting them I'll email them to you. I dont call it a snap-lock in the captions (I dont know what to call it) but I refer to each picture as either the back-side (meaning not the snap-lock side) or the clip-side (meaning the snap-lock side).

Yes I made sure about the insertion into the plug the right way. The Gateway 20/24 pin plug has a lip on one of the long sides indicating that's where the snap-lock side of the connector should align.

Edit : I see we're all posting at the same time. Ok. Glad that's cleared up about the pics. Thanks for the compliment. 

Edit : Yeah, I was wondering about that brown wire too...but what to do about it, I dont know. I'm by no means an expert.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

I am thinking the power good signal is not getting to the high quality power supplies or its not sufficient in connection ?

this would be a question for PC Power & Cooling tech support >>>>>> I suggest you send them an email and link to this discussion ......... expecially the pics you took of each plug


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

I think they will instruct you how to make a jumper ......... but thats not official !


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

> this would be a question for PC Power & Cooling tech support >>>>>> I suggest you send them an email and link to this discussion ......... expecially the pics you took of each plug


Will do that right now.


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Or should I first explore wrench's suggestion and carefully cut away the wire-bundle jacket to see where the brown wire goes?


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

which supply has the brown wire ?????/ the HP supply ?


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

I would not cut apart your working PSU just look at it to see if you can tell where it comes out.


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

The only brown wire I know about is on the Bestec supply that works with my system (that came with my system). Well, I went ahead and opened up my supply. At the time I didnt see your "no", wrench. Oops! My bad.  

Anyway it was 3 screws to remove the supply from the case and 4 screws to remove the housing from the supply. Now this is the Bestec I'm talking about here. And I've posted photos of what I found, focusing on the brown wire. Turns out theres no wire-bundle jacket on this supply. Instead Bestec simply zip-tied the wires every few inches into a bundle, so I clearly saw that the brown wire remained independent outside the supply, which prompted me to open up the supply itself.

I'm keeping this supply open, disconnected and unused for convenience in case you need more information (it's sitting on the desk next to me), and I'm talking to you from my other computer, so all is well for continuing this thread. I still want to email PC Power & Cooling, but do you want more information/pics first?

- Eric


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

That is truly strange it looks as if the pcb is labeled 3.3v to boot and that wire runs down and ties into a 5v wire at the plug???

I'm with Linderman PP&C tech support may have an answer.??????


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Ok, I'll link to this thread in my email to PCP&C tech support.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

good move


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Hello,

OCZ Technology responded to my inquiry:



> Trouble Ticket ID: 43378
> Description: Silencer 610 EPS 12v
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> ...


I'll reply to them tonight and include a copy here, but until then if you want me to include anything in my reply (I'll ask then if they've looked at this thread yet) such as what they mean by "there is not enough load on the unit to start" or any technical questions, I'll include that in my reply too.

- Eric


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

a power supply must receive a certain request for start-up voltage ....... the amount your motherboard calls for may not be triggering the high end units ?

its has got to be something to do with the "power good" signal ?


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

I replied to PCP&C :



> Hi,
> 
> I received your reply, and to answer your question my motherboard is a Foxconn C51GU01. This is detailed at this link to the Gateway computers website : http://support.gateway.com/s/MOTHERBD/FIC/105552/105552sp23.shtml
> 
> ...


In addition here's a few more photos; these are of my motherboard.


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Here's their reply from a moment ago :



> Comment: Hello Eric,
> 
> I did read the thread. The pictures do not indicate any differences. The orange/brown wire is the only unusual wire. You can try testing the voltage on this wire with a digital multimeter. From where it is on the connector, it should be +3.3 volts.
> 
> ...


So, what next? Any wiring ideas? Questions I should ask them? Get a digital multimeter? Contact Gateway support?

Thanks


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

The "Power Good" wire is a gray wire between a black and purple wire. It should be on the opposite side of the missing wire. The missing wire is for the -5V rail which is no longer used on the ATX standard.



in your shoes ....... I would try swapping these wires ....... the pins in the 24pin main connector can be removed ...... and relocated if careful


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

What exactly are you talking about, just so I'm sure. I included a graphic of the Bestec supply that works in my system and the PCP&C supply I want to modify. If you could look at the graphic and then say "move the wire from location x to location y" that would be great.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

your graphic is very nicely done ! I misinterpreted the PC power and cooling guy or I think he made an error 

the grey wire is in the same location on both connectors !

so...... disregard that change them idea!


I would say at this point ...... two avenues ........ buy the BFG supply and return the other units or spend $50.00 and change the motherboard ?

I have never seen a problem like yours before ......... generally its a matter of two or more wires being in the wrong orientation ........ you dont have that ?

there is nothing the OEM system builder (HP or gateway or whatever) is going to do ...... there is nothing they can do!


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

that stinks ....... your board is a socket 939 ...... those are hard to find and price for more $$$$ than intel boards

here is a hellva deal ..... even though it wont feel like it 

http://cgi.ebay.com/DFI-Lanparty-UT...14&_trkparms=72:1234|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

is your motherboard a BTX board ??????? please give me a farily close up picture of your whole motherboard ?


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

I messed up on my previous graphic. The PC Power & Cooling graphic is wrong, but it doesnt affect the gray wire position. The only correction is the orange & brown wires in location 1, there is only an orange wire on the PCP&C supply. Here's the correct graphic. Does this change anything?

Side note : As far as the next step I'm going to forgo the new motherboard idea, but I'll provide you with shots of the 4 quadrants of this motherboard so the whole thing is somewhat detailed. My hope is still that this will somehow get working.​


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

bingo ............ finally some reasoning 

I have been doing extensive research and have noted the following

when you stated in previous posts that you fired with board with a BFG power supply and a Dynex power supply ........ yet cant fire it with high quality power supplies like the antec trio and PC 610 ........ that sent me scratching my head

the BFG and Dynex are both low grade ....... generic built units with customer feedback on newegg that ranges from good to horrible ................. the good power supplies we reccomend dont have that type of feedback

therefore I started checking specifications

the BFG . Dynex and your bestec are all ATX v2.2 spec

the Antec and PC& P cooling units are atx 12v spec

I checked other known crappers I have experience with Xclio / coolmax / Dynapower and they are ATX v2.2

I then checked what is the diff from atx ver.2.2 to ATX 12 and found ATX 12V cleaned up the 3.3 volt line ....... which means the better built power supplies are not being fed the power ok voltage in the same manner as are the newer tighter spec motherboards


how to "force" the PC Power & cooling unit to fire ........ I am still working on


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

on that spot (pin #1 on the bestec) that has the orange and brown wire on your bestec supply .......... follow the brown wire back into the power supply to see if somehow on the inside of the power supply it might connect to the grey wire ??????


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

linderman said:


> on that spot (pin #1 on the bestec) that has the orange and brown wire on your bestec supply .......... follow the brown wire back into the power supply to see if somehow on the inside of the power supply it might connect to the grey wire ??????


It goes to the circuit board


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

I think you and I are on the same page, I think. Just a moment ago I typed into Google "24 pin pc connector" and the second result is to this forum thread in Tom's Hardware, which immediately caught my eye because the original post was a user with an AMD X2 3800+ CPU and that's the same processor as mine. So I'm now thinking that maybe his computer is built around the same time as mine regardless of the make/model. So I read on and come across this...



> Older PSUs deliver most of their wattage on 3.3 and 5 volts and newer ones deliver most of it on 12 volts. You can definitely have problems using an old 300 watt PSU in a new computer which needs a 300 watt PSU even if the power connectors are compatible. It's very easy for a new computer to overload the 12 volt rail of an old PSU. You can also have overloading problems sticking a new PSU into an older computer. Most ATX12V 1.3 and earlier PSUs provide enough 3.3 or 5 volt power to run an older motherboard but some newer ATX12V 2.0 and newer supplies have reduced the available power on 3.3 and 5. If you're using a new supply with an older motherboard then it's best to check that it has enough wattage on 3.3 and 5.


Does that sound like what you're speaking of too? I hope so. I love it when a direction is found.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

hmmmmmm

i would start by connecting a continuity tester from the brown wire to the grey wire and see if they are "tricked" into making a connection


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

well the 600 watt power supplies will have MORE than enough 3.3 volt and 5 volt power to drag any old motherboard by its hair!

but ....... we need to see if there is a realtionship in the bestec supply between that brown wire and the grey wire ......... you have have a multi meter ?


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Dont miss my post above. I think we're all posting at the same time here.

As far as a continuity tester tricking stuff....riiiiight!  I have a supposed idea of how what you mean, but I do not know what tools I need. Remember when I spoke earlier about getting a multimeter from Sears and you said no, to hold off until we do a visual inspection. Well if now's the time to get one of those meter-things, let me know and if you could point to one I'll get it tonight at the local Sears.

maybe this one ? http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482141000P?vName=Tools


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

all you need is a cheap multimeter


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Alright, then I'll see what they have (I go digital vs analog) and get some results tonight (I'm in Alaska so it may be tomorrow before you see the post). Thanks!


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/homemaintenance/electrical/continuitytest.php


make sure the meter you get can also check for continuity

a cheapy like the one in this link is $15.00 tops


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

see yah tomm


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Ok, I bought this multimeter from Sears tonight and spent a good part of the evening trying to figure out how to use it. Apparently I need to have the power supply plugged into the motherboard AND the wall outlet AND have it turned on to test voltage. Oooo-kay....

So I did that after disconnecting what didnt need to be on the motherboard (hard drives, etc..), then plugged the black multimeter lead into the COM plug on the multimeter and jammed the other end into one of the black plugs (a ground) on the 20-pin (the bestec supply is a 20-pin, not 24) motherboard connector that was plugged into the motherboard. Then I plugged the red multimeter lead into the V plug on the multimeter and jammed it into each of the colored wires on the connector.

What I found is pictured below...

PS : Yes, there's a PINK wire too on this supply...PINK! I couldnt believe it!!! I never saw a pink wire there ever! I had to look twice to be sure I was looking at the right power supply. I'd never seen it before! But it's there at location 10 of the previous graphic I posted (see permalink 63). :4-dontkno I dont know what to say, but there it is jammed into the same slot as the red wire.

As far as a continuity test you were saying something about the gray wire and the brown wire. Well I dont know if I know what you mean exactly but I'll take it to mean that you want me to touch the brown plug with the gray plug for a contunity test on the multimeter. I did.

For good measure I also continuity tested against the pink/brown and gray and got the other graphic. If the number is other than "1", which they all are, then the circuit is closed. (Note I plugged everything into everything else cause I got different readings and I dont know if that means anything to you). The beeps according to the manual mean that the "resistance is less than approx. 30 Ohms. 

Ok I hope all this leads you somewhere.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

hmm I am lost in your information


let try this .....


put only your new power supply on the table ....... use a jumper wire (could be a u shaped paper clip ?) to jump the green wire in the motherboard connector to a any black wire

then plug the new PCP & P unit into the wall power and turn on ........ it should run ? verify this

then add a case fan with a 4 pin molex plug to any of the power supplies molex plugs ???? does the case fan run ????? 

if yes then we are ready to proceed


read the bench test stick we have posted in the building forum ......... you will need to pull this gateway motherboard from the case and put it on the "bench" then using the new power supply with the jumper attached ....... insert that main plug into the motherboard slot ...... connect the video card to the monitor etc ....... you will need to use the power supply on and off button to start and stop the machine 

see if this fires the system ..................... I have done this many times with similar systems ........ its an older spec board which doesnt process a "power good signal" thus giving the power supply the command to fire up


keep us posted


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Hey sorry I couldnt get you any information tonight. Friend needed some help. But I got a paperclip here on my workbench and I'll try to get you the information tomorrow after work.

Thanks for sticking with this 

Later.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

no prob ............I will be gone this weekend to hunting camp ....... so I may or may not get a chance to check up on this thread ......... monday nite for sure


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Hi,

Hope your weekend at camp was rewarding! 

Well, I did the paperclip thing, and the PCP&C supply ran just like you expected (I had to look at the fanin the supply to confirm this cause the unit makes no noise - zero).

Then I looked for a case fan with a molex plug but no luck. Turns out my case has only one fan with a strange type of plug in (pic attached) and the PCP&C supply does not have that kind of connector. So I bypassed that step.

Then I read the bench test sticky. But when I got to the point of physically removing the motherboard from the case it wouldnt come. I found 7 screws with the rings around the holes but the board still wouldnt come and when it started bending (very slightly) under added removal pressure I decided to leave it be.

So I had already removed everything from the motherboard except the CPU, heatsink, RAM and video card. I connected the "jumped" 24-pin connector and the CPU power plug. Then a monitor to the graphics card. 

It worked! The graphic card fan started spinning. Nothing came on the monitor and there were no beeps, so after a second or two I turned off the computer, disconnected the supply and attached the heatsink fan, then re powered the machine. 

It worked! Both fans ran (the 120mm and the graphics card fan) but nothing else happened. I mean there's no hard drives attached or anything, but nothing came on the monitor either, and no beeps. The fans kept running. After about 30 seconds I turned off the machine.

So with all that done I reconnected everything back like it was and connected my original Bestec supply just to make sure nothing got fried, and everything's working fine. 

So that's the latest. You're the greatest. Let me know what to do next with getting this PCP&C supply permanently into my system. 

Thanks


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

hmmmm what you have done in the last 3 or so replies is all I have ever had to do to get the stubborn OEM systems to run ...... after which the owner could not use the normal power switch on the front of the case / but rather had to use the on & off rocker switch on the PSU 

our only salvation at this time (imho anyway) is to email PC power and cooling and ask for tech help ...... point them to this thread ....... and how you have the system somewhat running with the jumper ........ ask them what else needs to be done to fire the system ....... looks to me like the board is not getting 3.3volt power or is not "ready" to accept 3.3 volt power ?

maybe they will give you a hint ...... but you will need to reinforce the fact that you are the only one responsible in the end for what needs to be jumpered and done as this is not a formal solution!

keep us posted


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Well hopefully their response will not be to duct tape a paperclip to the 24-pin connector. LOL.

I'll email them and let you know their reply.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

I would email this fella and see if you can get some help from him ........ he seems to really know his stuff when it comes to altering & modifying the ATX power supply to make things work ?

http://atxg4.com/


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

I am fairly confident this is the present situtation:


The nominal voltage of the Power Good signal is +5 V, but in practice the allowable range is usually up to a full volt above or below that value. All power supplies will generate the Power Good signal, and most will specify the typical time until it is asserted. *Some extremely el-cheapo power *supplies may *"fake" *the Power Good signal by just tying it to another +5 V line. Such a system essentially has no Power Good functionality and will cause the motherboard to try to start the system before the power has fully stabilized. Needless to say, this type of power supply is to be avoided. Unfortunately, you cannot tell if your power supply is "faking" things unless you have test equipment. Fortunately, if you buy anything but the lowest-quality supplies you don't really need to worry about this.




but am now trying to figure out how to "modify" things


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

DONT RISK WHAT YOU ARE NOT WILLING TO LOSE!!


I looked into this at the time and it appears that fake "power good" is achieved by connecting the "power good" connection to a standard 5 volt output. That probably makes it a little more susceptible to boot power variations but in practice there doesn't seem to be any difference. Motherboards that don't like this arrangement are probably looking for a specific voltage rise time.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

When you first power up the system, the motherboard waits for the PSU to send a "Power Good" signal. This usually happens within the first 250ms ~ 500ms after power on. If the PSU is unable to provide a stable 3.3v Power Good signal within this time, then the motherboard will not enter the boot phase and the system will appear dead all except for the 12v and 5v lines (the power to your fans and drive motors).


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

try jumping the green wire and black wire on the motherboard connector to make the power supply turn on ............. then without this plug installed in the actual motherboard ....see if the 3.3volt power is present in the main plug of the power supply when using a multi meter?


also ..... when the power supply is running in this "test mode" check to see if the grey wire has voltage present ?



DO THIS SAME TEST TO THE BESTEC SUPPLY AND COMPARE THE RESULTS ?


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

hmmmmmmm thinking


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

http://pinouts.ru/Power/atx_v2_pinout.shtml


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

*please give us a pic of your board ...... we never did finalize if this gateway board is a btx board or atx board ?*


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

another thing to try that just came from a similar thread 



try jumpering the green wire to the grey wire ..... then use the multimeter to test voltage outputs ........ you may need to connect the power supply plug to the motherboard and then jumper from the back of the pins to accomplish this 

keep us posted


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

> hmmmm what you have done in the last 3 or so replies is all I have ever had to do to get the stubborn OEM systems to run ...... after which the owner could not use the normal power switch on the front of the case / but rather had to use the on & off rocker switch on the PSU


I'm the one learning here, so I may be reading everything the wrong way, but you seem to be distressed at the results of the PCP&C supply bench test. Are the results what you expected? I thought the results were great. 

I did the basic bench test with the PCP&C supply without the hard drives hooked up. I didn't not hook up the hard drives or optical drives or any of the cabling until I returned the system to the Bestec supply.



> So I had already removed everything from the motherboard except the CPU, heatsink, RAM and video card. I connected the "jumped" 24-pin connector and the CPU power plug. Then a monitor to the graphics card.
> 
> It worked! The graphic card fan started spinning. Nothing came on the monitor and there were no beeps, so after a second or two I turned off the computer, disconnected the supply and attached the heatsink fan, then re powered the machine.
> 
> It worked! Both fans ran (the 120mm and the graphics card fan) but nothing else happened. I mean there's no hard drives attached or anything, but nothing came on the monitor either, and no beeps. The fans kept running. After about 30 seconds I turned off the machine.


To me it sounds that if the PCP&C supply is working with the above configuration then it should be good to go for everything, hard drives, optical drives and all. To me it sounds as though you're now wondering about things not getting burned out. 

You know so much more about this stuff, I'm only guessing here.

As far as this...



> When you first power up the system, the motherboard waits for the PSU to send a "Power Good" signal. This usually happens within the first 250ms ~ 500ms after power on. If the PSU is unable to provide a stable 3.3v Power Good signal within this time, then the motherboard will not enter the boot phase and the system will appear dead all except for the 12v and 5v lines (the power to your fans and drive motors).


...this is exactly how it feels when I press the power button on the front of my computer. Like there's a bit of a lag before it does what I'm wanting it to do.

As far as the results and tests and board-type and all your posts I'll look at them closely and get you the information tonight from home. 

Anyway I just know this thread's gone on for a long time I want to make sure we're taking stock in everything's that's been done.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

I am not really worried about anything get burned out ..... although it can happen 


as far as the previous test with the PC power and cooling on the bench ...... I thought that would be end of story ....... run it with a jumper from green wire to black wire and use the switch on the back of the PSU forever ....... but it doesnt look like thats whats going to happen ..........


review the replies above and lets try some more benching 

the most promising one looks like jump the green to the grey wire ........ ?

but you will need a "load" calling for power ....... I think you will need to use the motherboard to deliver that ?


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

I think I'm getting it after re-reading and processing the posts...sorry but my brain has been on fixing the boiler in my home what went out last night and so I'm kinda tired...and cold until recently - it's now fixed (new thermocouple needed). 

If I'm understanding you correct, you were expecting more than just the fans running when you asked for a bench test....



> you will need to pull this gateway motherboard from the case and put it on the "bench" then using the new power supply with the jumper attached ....... insert that main plug into the motherboard slot ...... connect the video card to the monitor etc ....... you will need to use the power supply on and off button to start and stop the machine
> 
> see if this fires the system .....


You expected for me to see a post screen on the monitor? 



> ...at this point in the test you should see the post screen ?????
> - How to Bench Test Your System


Yeah, I didn't see a post screen or any screen. And because I didnt get a post screen you're not ready for the hard drives, optical drives, etc. to be hooked up yet. You're saying more should be happening than just the fans spinning. Right? 



> hmmmm what you have done in the last 3 or so replies is all I have ever had to do to get the stubborn OEM systems to run ...... after which the owner could not use the normal power switch on the front of the case / but rather had to use the on & off rocker switch on the PSU


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

I emailed PCP&C under the same ticket as I used before for this trouble : 



> Hello,
> 
> Since our last correspondence a lot of information has been added to the techsupportforum.com thread regarding your power supply and the Gateway computer in which I'm trying to install it into. Please refer here to the more recent information : http://www.techsupportforum.com/f21...teway-gt5028-troubles-199051.html#post1810594
> 
> ...


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

I also emailed the person at the ATXG4 website as you suggested : 



> I've been referred to you by the person who is mainly corresponding with me on a forum thread trying to get a PC Power & Cooling power supply (ATX) into a Gateway GT5028 computer. It's a long thread but an interesting read with multimeter results, photos, etc. trying to find a method to make this supply work.
> 
> Here's where he refers me to you : http://www.techsupportforum.com/f21...teway-gt5028-troubles-199051.html#post1820298
> 
> Here's a link jumping to the 2nd half of the thread where it really begins to focus on this particular supply. I would appreciate your input : http://www.techsupportforum.com/f21...teway-gt5028-troubles-199051.html#post1802112


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Linderman, I'm now doing your test...



> try jumping the green wire and black wire on the motherboard connector to make the power supply turn on ............. then without this plug installed in the actual motherboard ....see if the 3.3volt power is present in the main plug of the power supply when using a multi meter?
> 
> 
> also ..... when the power supply is running in this "test mode" check to see if the grey wire has voltage present ?
> ...


Just to make sure I'm doing this right I'll repeat what I'm doing in my own words along with the results. Let me know if I did this right...


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

PCP&C SUPPLY RESULTS------------------------

I didnt plug the supply into the motherboard but simply "jumped" it by attaching the green and black wire next to it to each other with a paperclip. I then powered it using the rocker switch and took voltage readings for all the pins along the 24-pin connector. They are listed in the graphic below.

As you can see there are 3.3 (close to 3.3) voltages throughout the connector, and I noted that the gray wire reads 5v when powered.


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

BESTEC SUPPLY RESULTS------------------------

I multimeter-tested the 20-pin (the Bestec is a 20-pin, not 24-pin) connector while powered on and plugged into the motherboard. The voltage readings are listed in the graphic below.

Note the gray (3.71) and green (0.33) voltages,they seem unusual to me but I double checked them.

Also note that in the graphic, location 10 "red" wire is actually the location of a red wire AND a pink wire as I corrected in an earlier post.


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Ok that's all for tonight. I'm very tired and need to be back up in about 5 hours, so I'm off to bed. I know I didnt get to your request here : http://www.techsupportforum.com/f21...teway-gt5028-troubles-199051.html#post1820907 but I will after work today.

Let me know if I missed anything else too.

Night.


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## allenocz (Nov 17, 2008)

From what I can find (which admittedly is very little), the Foxconn motherboard in your Gateway uses a standard ATX power supply. I've found a forum thread (on a different forum) where one user replaced his OEM power supply with an Antec TruePower 650W. I cannot imagine what could be different about the Antec, but you may want to look into it if something about it makes it work with your system. I understand that this may seem odd coming from a competitor, but the goal here is to get your system running.

I tested several power supplies in our lab and they all produced similar results, including +5V on the gray wire. The units tested were the Silencer 610 EPS12V, OCZ StealthXStream 600, Thermaltake 400W, and a RaidMAX 380W. 

I also tested the power supplies without the paperclip, but the power switch in the "on" position. This shows the +5VSB (purple wire) and the ability for the unit to power on when given a signal from the motherboard (effectively shorting the green wire to ground). There was a variation here, but only between +3V to about +4.5V on the green wire. You may want to check the green wire in this way with both your Bestec and PC Power units.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

thank you allenOCZ for the info ,,,,,,,, this has been a real twister ..... cant say I have ever seen one like this !

the antec trio 650 didnt power for him either by the way ...... it seems as though no high quality power supply will!

the Dynex and BFG 800 watt units powered up the board ....... but man........ those are some real trash ........ I would hate to run a $200.00 or $300.00 video card with them !


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

@ allen

do you have any suggestions or guesses with what we might try ? we know and accept this is not normal and we procced with our own risk


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Maybe by using only the 20 pin section of the 20+4 pin connector would increase the load on the remaining circuits?


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

I dont think its as much a 20 pin or load problem as it is to achieve that slight voltage on the green wire (.33v)


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Interesting suggestion, Wrench. I've never tried the PCP&C supply with the 20-pin configuration. And hey, why not try it!

Linderman, I added your request for AllenOCZ's input to my trouble ticket with OCZ in case AllenOCZ is not monitoring this thread...



> Hi Allen,
> 
> Linderman on techsupportforum.com site has requested your input with "any suggestions or guesses with what we might try" you may have (link here) : http://www.techsupportforum.com/f21...teway-gt5028-troubles-199051.html#post1821827
> 
> ...


PS : I checked the voltages for the Bestec supply that I posted in post #75 and post #98 (see the graphic in each post), and they are essentially the same. This isn't really information, but just double-checking stuff.


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Linderman,

Donald Hall who you recommended earlier with ATXG4.com responded a moment ago...



> I'm just getting over a cold, so I really don't have the time or critical thinking ability to dive through all the posts to figure out what may be the problem. Since I work very closely with Mac systems, I'm not certain I could even figure out why you're having issues without spending several hours or even days researching.
> 
> So, for now, I have to say I can't answer your question.
> -Donald Hall


I thanked him for responding.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

hmmmm feels like we are truely adrift 

well two options as I see it at this point 

A) buy and and use the BFG power supply

B) spend $50.00 to $60.00 on a new motherboard ?


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## allenocz (Nov 17, 2008)

I've been doing some research on my own and a little testing myself. Unfortunately, I do not have a Foxconn C51GU01 to test.

I am not an engineer, but have been dealing with power supplies exclusively here and have had a similar issue at least once before. I do not remember exactly, but this user had a regular custom built system where our S75 wouldn't work in this system, but worked in a different one. A different power supply worked in both systems. We did not come to a satisfactory conclusion/resolution. I can only assume by the user's silence after a while that he either gave up or the replacement unit we sent him worked.

We can certainly take your power supply with an RMA for testing. I'm guessing from the tests you've already ran, that it would pass and be shipped right back to you. I can request a replacement be sent to you in hopes that this is an isolated issue - this seems unlikely as your Antec does not work either.

I agree with linderman on our options with the above added:

A) purchase a BFG unit - I would recommend a higher powered one as this will probably be a higher quality unit in their product line

B) a new motherboard - If you are looking into purchasing a new motherboard it is a uBTX board - I noticed this question asked earlier.

C) RMA to PC Power and hope a replacement works


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

AllenOCZ ....... I cant thank-you enough for your above and beyond efforts to assist with this project.

I am very impressed that you are willing to extend yourself like that ...... reinforces the reason why PC power & Cooling and OCZ are such a successful company....... consumers will have to "travel alot of road" to find many manufacturer's that support their products to this level!

best regards


joe


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Hello All,

I've been giving this a lot of thought, and I cant say I've yet decided what to do. Wrench97, I did try your 20-pin only suggestion - no joy, but thanks for the suggestion. I would have felt stupid if I didnt try it. 

Linderman, I am conflicted because I really like my 3800+ Gateway, but as I wrote in the private email I got a 5400+ CPU just sitting here at my house. A new motherboard, RAM and DVD Drive and I'm goood to go for an entirely new build that'll walk all over my 3800+. 

Part of me wants to go that route, cause I could then transfer the ATI HD4850 card in another of my computers to the new 5400+ build, which would make it a very nice system IMHO. I have an Nvidia 9600GSO I had planned to use in my 3800+, but not without the upgraded power supply, but I'll put that into the computer I'll harvest the HD4850 from. This would give me two very well rounded systems, again IMHO. And then I'll sell my 3800+ as-is minus 1 of the 2 hard drives that I'll use in my new build, and let the buyer know about the power supply issue in case they choose to upgrade.

The idea of a full build is cool cause I've never done one from scratch, but then again why cant I get the darn PS to work?!?! Or better said (and more accurate) why cant I get this quality PS to work with the darn motherboard?!?! So I'm seriously considering sending both the PS and the 3800+'s motherboard to PCP&C for lab testing and a solution. I guess my biggest issues are

Shipping cost. I'm in Alaska. For anyone living in Alaska that explains everything. I buy two things from newegg and shipping is $40 at the cheapest route if that gives you an idea.
My motherboard wasnt coming away from the case last time I tried (an earlier post in this thread described my troubles), so I'm leary about damaging it.

Even then there's no guarantee of a solution. 

I'm thinking out loud here and working though it. My next step will be to find out the shipping cost to PCP&C, so I think I'll contact them for information. I really want to get this mystery solved, but....

I'll post once I have their reply. Thank you for listening.

- Eric


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Here's what I wrote to OCZ Technology....



> Hi,
> 
> Please refer to the now-closed ticket 43378, also under my email address...
> 
> ...


I linked him to permalink #110 immediately above here.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

Hello Eric


give your situtation; with new parts just sitting waiting to go into service ..... coupled with high shipping costs and your desire to have a gaming computer

my vote goes with the new build ........ and sell off the Gateway 3800+ on ebay


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Yep, I'm feeling strongly about that too...but I'm gonna give OCZ an opportunity to reply here and if the shipping costs are then too great, well...new build here I come! OCZ's been great, really great, but I can wait a week or two longer; these parts aren't going anywhere.


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## allenocz (Nov 17, 2008)

You can certainly send your motherboard and power supply to us for testing. I will test your system myself.

I agree with linderman. Given the high shipping costs and your available components, building a new machine will probably give you the best results.


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Alight then. It'll be a new build. 

Allen, thank you!
Linderman, thank you!
Wrench, thank you!

This will go down as a mystery. 

Alright. I'm going to post a new thread in the builder's forum after I check mwave as you suggested Linderman. I'm going to check newegg too since I only want shipping from one joint. And my post will be asking if everything gathered together is compatible and of good quality (you know, the regular "will this build work" thread). I'll link to it here once it's up. 

 Thank you everyone, again


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

you have a fine start already ....... your cpu / power supply and 4850 will make your old rig look like it was stuck in first gear !


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## akedm (Oct 1, 2007)

Hi,

Here's the link to the build thread : http://www.techsupportforum.com/f25...s-already-at-my-house-320624.html#post1840627

- Eric


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