# Garage Wall Storage



## Solidify

I will be working on my first storage project very soon and would like some advice about which wood to use (and its depth). I would like to put all the big tools that don't currently fit anywhere onto the wall, something like this:










The above is an exemplar from Google and is not my garage.

This is my garage (below).

I would like to get two 4x6 inch press-wood board and drill them into the wall studs. then I can figure out how to attach all the tools later, once the wood is on the wall. I don't want anything fancy. I'll probably just put some long screws into the board to use as supports for hanging the tools.

The actual white vinyl that you see is 8 inches tall but I can only do 6 inches tall since the plumbing is there. I settled on 2 boards of 4x6 inches at the risk of not being economical (don't want to spend on another board to get a tiny bit more coverage all the way to the water tank.. not that big of a deal). If I need more surface later, I'll add it no problem. But for now, I wanna keep the costs down to a minimum.

If you can suggest the wood for my idea or better yet, a more economical way to get the planks to cover as much as possible, that would be great.

Some of the things I will be hanging there:


Snow Shovels
Chainsaw
Spade
Pick
Garden Shovel
Hoe
Rake
Weed Wackers
etc.

My dad suggested instead of having to put an entire board to just put 2x4s along the wall from left to right at two heights and then just hang the items there. But the benefit of using the entire wall is that I can save a lot of room and squeeze items closer together and under each other, like in the first pic.


----------



## SpywareDr

What about pegboard?










More images/ideas here: https://www.google.com/search?hl=en....1.1.0....0...1ac.1.45.img..1.0.0.oZlvYyJZZG4


----------



## SABL

What is shown in the first pic is called 'slat-wall'.....could be kinda pricey. Nice system, though.

Tempered pegboard should work fine and is rather inexpensive......you'll have to mount it on furring strips to allow for the hooks. Many types of hooks are available.


----------



## Solidify

I like the pegboard idea and yes ive looked and its pretty cheap but im worried that even with the support strips of wood that the weight of all the metal shovels and chainsaw etc will be too heavy for 1/4 inch of pegboard

What type of wood/size should i use for behind the pegboard


----------



## Solidify

Ill be using this as a reference but not sure where to put the wood How to Install a Pegboard : How-To : DIY Network


----------



## SABL

Standard 1X2 furring will work......3/4" X 1 1/2". Most weight will be more of a straight down pull.....as long as the chainsaw can be hung close to the pegboard things should be fine.

*EDIT*

You'll still have to find the studs to mount furring on. The tile will make it a little tricky.....keep the fasteners in the grout joints.


----------



## Solidify

Ok thanks its not tile thought, its like a flimsy plastic vinyl
Behind it is the studs and plumbing and wiring etc no drywall
Its just that vinyl board on the wall frame


----------



## SABL

Shouldn't take too long......set the bottom horizontal strip first and stack the verticals on top of that. Drive 2 spikes (16d nails) right under the bottom strip to rest the pegboard on.....remove when done. OR.......cut some boards 1 -2 inches longer than the distance from floor to bottom of lower strip. Lean the boards against the wall and lightly kick the bottom in to keep them snug to the wall and floor.....rest the pegboard on top to do the fastening with both hands free.


----------



## Solidify

Ah ok, you're just suggesting ways to do it alone... thank you, that's kind of you. But I've decided to go with a single 4ftx8ft pegboard hung sideways (8ft wide) towards the top of the wall, since after some thought, i realize that anything lower than a certain height would be a wasted pegboard. I'll just hang my tallest shovels and rakes at the very bottom of the pegboard, which will finish halfway down the height of the wall.


----------



## SABL

Single 4X8 sounds great!! It's nice to have some storage on the floor.....just make sure it doesn't make it a pita to get to stuff on the pegboard. And......the lower portion of the pegboard is rather useless unless you have some really short things which should be stored at a convenient height if they are things that are used often.

Yes, I've often worked alone and have used many a 'dead-man'. I hung all the DW in my first house without help.....including the ceilings. You just have to find a method sometimes. 2nd house required some help.....a co-worker (at the time) lived nearby and helped with the 5/8" X 4' X 12' DW for the ceilings.....first house was 1/2" X 4' X 8' DW for ceilings. Tack a dead-man on the wall ~3/4" down from the ceiling to hold one end as you walk up the ladder with the other.......that was work.....:frown:

Do you have an electric miter saw??


----------



## Solidify

No I don't have an electric miter saw, but my dad has one, as well as a tablesaw. He's going to give me his circular saw after we finish using it for this job. Right now all I have at my disposal are crosscut saws, hacksaws, a small copping saw. I see myself buying a reciprocating saw in the near future for using to trim tree branches though.

Day 1

I got 5 slabs of 2x3x8 lumber that I will use for the frame to support the pegboard (the reason I chose 2x3 instead of 2x4 is because it will give me an extra inch around the frame where I could still use the pegboard holes, whereas the 2x4 wood would have blocked an inch more of holes).
I also purchased the 4x8 pegboard. For 1$ more, I got the white one since it matches the rest of the vinyl wall.

These are my plans and this is my garage after cleaning it out this morning.


----------



## SpywareDr

Looking good. I'd space the vertical pieces on 24" centers so they can be easily found later.


----------



## Solidify

True, something uniform would help. Good tip


----------



## SpywareDr

Thanks. 

Studs, ceiling joists etc are usually on 16", or sometimes 24" center.


----------



## SABL

You're going to have to follow stud layout or add blocking from the backside of the wall (if it's open). If you want to maintain a 24" layout you can always lay the center furring strip down and screw into the studs. Many ways to do a job.....2 people will do the same job in 2 different ways most often......:laugh:


----------



## SpywareDr

I agree. It doesn't particularly matter how you go about getting it done, it's the end result that counts.


----------



## Solidify

soory sabl, i dont understand what you explained. the backside of the wall is another room which has drywall


----------



## SABL

OK...backside not an option for blocking. Lay the intermediate (middle) furring down on a horizontal plane......build the basic box frame and lay the field where it's needed. The spacing will not be determined by stud layout. You will only need a certain amount of fasteners to attach the pegboard.....makes no difference whether the furring is hort or vert. The only thing I would have done different is use 2 x 4's and rip them in half.....if the furring is to be run vertical. 2X3 gives you the option to lay the furring down and allows for needed strength......pre-drill the furring with 1/8 or 3/16 drill bit and use 3" coarse DW screws. Make sure the head of the screw sinks below the surface of the wood. 3" may seem aggressive but you have to consider penetration....furring at 1 1/2" and wall covering at 1/2" only leaves 1" of anchor penetration.


----------



## Solidify

The garage is a mess because I had to make room to work but here is where I am so far. I haven't decided on the layout yet.


----------



## SABL

Looks nice......:thumb:. Easy, wasn't it?? 

Need more shovels??


----------



## Vegassparky

That is lookin good. Organizing tools is always a PITA. I usually put things together that are associated with a common task.


----------



## Solidify

LOL Sabl, yes it was pretty easy but my dad had done it before so he knew what to do and I was just helping. Now I know how to do it for the future.

Vegas, I think the approach I will use for the layout is to use the new pegboard to store items that I don't use very often and then just keep the tools I use frequently on the pegboard by the workbench.

Edit: Oh, and in case anyone is wondering, I purchased the Zircon i520 and that's what I used to located the studs and live wire behind the wall. It works great after watching the included how-to DVD. It's true that people that complain about wall scanners not working properly are those who haven't taken the time to learn how to use them. You need to set it down on the wall and calibrate it each time before use. I'm very satisfied with mine.


----------



## Solidify

Made some minor adjustments, just going to clean up the center of garage and I'll post some photos of that later:


----------



## Solidify

The weed wackers were the most difficult to hang, requiring a bit of creativity with the hangers. I think I'll take them down eventually and put them in a corner to make room for more tools. I don't even know why I have 3; I don't even use a weed wacker when I cut my lawn LOL...


----------



## Solidify

I've been trying to tidy up the garage and I'd like to put an end cap on this plumbing line and remove it (since its obstructing me from stacking lumber against the wall comfortably), right where it comes out of the wall (I included a pic of another similar job). I know how to solder and cut pipe but I'm afraid that trying to sweat the T off the pipe and then heat it up again to solder the end cap will be too close to the wall (i.e.: fire hazard, even with a fireproof cloth or metal back-plate).

What's the best way around this, short of calling a plumber? I have all the tools needed, just not sure of the safest way, or how the last cap was even done (maybe before the wall was up...:ermm.


----------



## oscer1

if it was me i would remove all fastener that holding the copper pipe to the wall and then should be able to pull pipe away from wall and use pipe cutter or saw to cut pipe then clean pipe and flux and solder new cap on.


----------



## SpywareDr

How To Solder Copper Pipe Without Flame - YouTube

?


----------



## Solidify

Yes oscer but then soldering the cap on that close will be difficult, if not impossible

Spyware doc have you tried this yoursel? Im skeptical


----------



## oscer1

if you remove all fasteners depending on how long the run of horizontal copper you should be able to pull away from wall atleast a couple inches if not more. safe and simple to do. thats what i would do. just my opinion.


----------



## Solidify

Oscer, im removing the entirehorizontal line u see.. Im just debating how im
GONna get inside the wall to solder the tube end cap on there once the line is off the wall

Doc, what abt sharkbite end caps, do you think that exists lol


----------



## oscer1

Well whats on the other side of wall where pipe comes from?


----------



## Vegassparky

You can get almost any type of fitting(inc valves) from Sharkbite.


----------



## Solidify

> Well whats on the other side of wall where pipe comes from?


bachelor apartment wall. think ill just cut the hole bigger so i can solder the end cap the way it's supposed to be done. thanks for the glue-type suggestion


----------



## Basementgeek

Why not just use a joiner (female to female) connector, instead of a "T" ?

Better check with local code to see if glue is permitted. Also copper pipe is bonded to
grounded most places, per local code.

BG


----------



## Solidify

I dont want the t, im trying replace it with the end cap. But the prob is that even with the female to female jointer its gonna be difficult to get inside to solder without cutting the wall wider.

I wasnt planning to use the glue


----------



## SpywareDr

Rothenberger Plumber's Soldering Mat | Solder, Mats & Acc | Screwfix.com

?


----------



## Solidify

Even with the cloth, I don't see how I can get my solder inside the wall since thats where the end cap and the pipe will need to be soldered.


----------



## oscer1

well if it was me i would leave a couple inches of the pipe so if you ever deside you want water in garage you have something to solder back to.


----------



## SpywareDr

Take some of the clamps off and pull it out away from the wall?


----------



## Solidify

> well if it was me i would leave a couple inches of the pipe so if you ever deside you want water in garage you have something to solder back to.


Wouldn't I just be able to remove the end cab and resolder the line if that would be the case? Why would that require leaving a couple inches than I initially wanted to?



> Take some of the clamps off and pull it out away from the wall?


I'm not sure what you mean by that or how that will help me solder the joint located inside the wall cavity.


----------



## oscer1

this way you don't have to make hole in wall bigger is all.


----------



## Solidify

Ok true but i want the wall as flush as it can be to line timber against the shelf.. Thats why im removing it. That and bc weve never once used that line in the many years weve been living here.


----------



## Basementgeek

Replace the "T" with a connector. Not sure why you want a faucet in the garage any way.

BG


----------



## oscer1

He wants to remove all copper pipe from wall and not having anything stick out of wall. You dont show were the pipe comes into garage.


----------



## Solidify

exactly oscer, and yes i do show where the pipe comes into the garage, look here, in the 2nd, 3rd and 4th picture you can see the T than comes out of the wall.. that's where the water comes into the garage from.

the last photo is for proof that it was done by previous owner for another pipe in the garage


----------



## SpywareDr

Does the T move in and out of the wall any at all?

How did they solder it? It looks like there is just a hole in the paneling, (not a slot), for the T going into the wall ... and the paneling doesn't appear to be scorched. If that's the case, they must have used some kind of carbonized fiber or similar to pretect the wall while they soldered it.

Where does the right end of the pipe go? Back into the wall or is it just capped?

Also, to the left of the T, a little beyond that steel shelf bracket, is that a copper pipe cap sticking out of the wall? 

What's that baby blue vertical pipe?

Next to the beam on the ceiling, is that an electrical lead? Is the hole in the ceiling for a 4" vent? Did there used to be a water heater sitting here, or maybe a washer/dryer?


----------



## Solidify

> Does the T move in and out of the wall any at all?


not sure what you mean by that



> How did they solder it? It looks like there is just a hole in the paneling, (not a slot), for the T going into the wall ... and the paneling doesn't appear to be scorched. If that's the case, they must have used some kind of carbonized fiber or similar to pretect the wall while they soldered it.


like i said before, i think the plumbing was done before the wall was put up. if you look the 1st wide angle photo, look at the steel shelf framing under the wood, you can see the pipe was bent to work around the metal

we didn't solder that. it was like that when we bought the house from previous owners.



> Where does the right end of the pipe go? Back into the wall or is it just capped?


it just goes a couple more feet to the right and stops right on top of the tires to give way for a second spigot. but the line comes into the garage from the T were looking at.



> Also, to the left of the T, a little beyond that steel shelf bracket, is that a copper pipe cap sticking out of the wall?


yes it is. thats the reference pipe i included in the photos earlier to show it can be done. there are two more of those caps to the left outside the frame of the photo. those are from when the 3 hot water tanks were in that corner of the room and then they had them moved to the other end of the garage so they capped the inbound cold water lines, which is what you see there.



> What's that baby blue vertical pipe?


not sure where you see that but if its the vertical grey pipe foam you're inferring, thats the foam i put on an protruding pipe to protect it from wood that was on the shelf. the other side of that wall is my bachelor apertment. that pipe comes into the garage from the bottom (from his place) and this rise to the ceiling) (what you see covered with foam) and then is goes left at the ceiling and all the way to the other side of the room to his hot water tank.



> Next to the beam on the ceiling, is that an electrical lead?


the white ceiling beam is a beam to cover the refrigerant lines for our new thermopump air conditioning installation we had done last week. The transparent tube you see coming out to the left of the beam (near the wall) is the drain line which has water leak from the upstairs floor (where the wall mounted unit is located) into a drain in the garage.



> Is the hole in the ceiling for a 4" vent? Did there used to be a water heater sitting here, or maybe a washer/dryer?


no, the hole was to check if there was a leak in the ceiling, only to realize that leaking sound was a result of the light beside the hole making strange noises because of a faulty ballast or something. the house has a lot of ceiling holes lol dont mind them.. but good eye haha


----------



## SpywareDr

Solidify said:


> not sure what you mean by that


If you grab that copper "T" that goes into the wall with a pair of pliers and then pull on it, does the "T" move into and out of the wall any at all, or is it solid?




Solidify said:


> like i said before, i think the plumbing was done before the wall was put up. if you look the 1st wide angle photo, look at the steel shelf framing under the wood, you can see the pipe was bent to work around the metal


The plumbing inside the wall may have been done before the wall went up but, that "T" was inserted into a hole in the paneling and then soldered.

In other words, the paneling was applied to the wall first, with holes cut out for the plumbing where necessary, then the shelf brackets went up over the panmeling, then the copper pipe was installed over the shelf bracket(s) and the paneling with the "T" then inserted through a hole in the paneling.

If the paneling had gone up after the "T" was soldered in, they would have had to cut a slot in the paneling so it could slide in behind the "T" ... and I don't see a slot.

What's on the backside of that wall? Is it possible they were able to work inside that wall from the other side? Maybe push the pipe out a bit, solder the "T" on and whatever else, then pull the "T" back into the wall up against the paneling?




Solidify said:


> yes it is. thats the reference pipe i included in the photos earlier to show it can be done.


I'd be willing to bet that pipe cap was already there and sticking out of the wall when the hung the paneling. And all they did was use a hole saw to cut a hole in paneling for it.


----------



## Solidify

SpywareDoc, brilliant. This is why I love this forum. My dad and I were looking at it and he couldn't figure it out and your simple suggestion to pull it back with a pipe wrench worked. This is as far back as I can go comfortably. I can probably pull it back a bit more but I don't know if that would be excessive since I can't see how the internal piping is connected. Maybe if I shimmy something between the paneling and the pipe so it stays like that while I'm working.

Also, good point about the cutout having had been in the shape of the T if the panel was installed at the very end. Never thought about that. 

So what's next? I have to turn off water to the building, drain the pipes at the lowest point in the dwelling, sweat the T off using my torch, then once the T is off, I clean the existing pipe free of any residual solder using sandpaper (or those brush type cleaners), then apply new flux on the same pipe and end cap, fit it on and then solder? 

Did I miss anything?


----------



## oscer1

One small problem once you unsolder the tee the pipe in the wall will want to pull back into the wall


----------



## Basementgeek

The pipe going next door was soldered to the "t" before the t was installed.

I use steel wool after I get the solder melting again. Be careful not to get burned.

BG


----------



## SpywareDr

That's probably out far enough to remove the top and bottom pipes but, if the "T" comes loose from that little horizontal pipe going into the wall, what's going to keep that little horizontal pipe from snapping back to position inside the wall?

Is there access to that fitting on the backside of that wall?

How about removing the top and bottom pipes from the "T" and then plugging the "T"?


----------



## WereBo

Hi Solidify :wave:

Will the pipe through the panel pull out far enough to get a grip with a pair of 'Mole-Grips' (I think they're called 'Locking-Pliers' over there)?

If so, grip the pipe just behind the 'T'-joint, just tight enough to hold the pipe without crushing it, then remove the T'-joint and cap the pipe off. Removing the grips should (in theory, you might have to enlarge the hole for the cap to fti through) let the pipe vanish into the wall - Don't forget to patch the hole in the panel :wink:

If you have any heat/flame-resistant material around, sandwiching that around the pipe between the panel and grips, will prevent any burn-marks on the panel)


----------



## Solidify

Damn I didn't realize the pipe would slingshot back into the wall once the T comes off. :facepalm: I'll try your suggestion with my locking pliers, WereBo. But even with the pliers holding the pipe right behind the T joint, how will I manage to hold those pliers while desoldering the joint and removing the pipes from it lol I'll need 4 arms or someone else haha... unless the pliers will rest flush against the panel once they're on tight enough 



> How about removing the top and bottom pipes from the "T" and then plugging the "T"?


Thought about it but I don't want to do that since there will since be pipe protruding. Caping the pipe behind the T will give me the most possible clearance for my shelving.


----------



## SpywareDr

True, but, it's looking more and more like in order to do that the wall will have to be cut out and then patched after the plumbing is remodeled.


----------



## Solidify

Why cut wall? We now know that i can pull it out far enough to work on it.. Just need to figure out how to keep it out while i work


----------



## SpywareDr

In your last pic, even with the "T" pulled out, the part of that "T" that goes into the wall is still touching the wall ... which means the cap will too. So, how are you going to keep from scorching the wall while using the torch to remove the "T" and then replace it with a cap? It would need to come out at least another 1/2" or so.


----------



## Solidify

One question. To unsolder the T, am i focusing the torch on the T or on the pipe inside the wall? Same questiom for when i have to reheat to solder the end cap


----------



## joeten

WerBo suggested using something similar to this This Could be Your Last Chance to Buy USA-made Vise Grip Locking Pliers | ToolGuyd to help hold the pipe in place.


----------



## SpywareDr

You need to focus the heat on where you want the solder to flow ... and it all needs to be flowing (a liquid) to get a good, solid joint.


----------



## Solidify

Joe i know, i have 2 of those but i said that i wouldnt be able to hold the pliers if i need to be desoldering and pulling the loose pipes apart... Unless i have 3 arms


----------



## joeten

The idea was you follow WereBo's suggestion and clamp the pipe, the pliers should hold without you holding them, if they won't clamp and hold maybe they are not up to the job.


----------



## SpywareDr

You'll probably need something thinner, like needle-nose vice grips:


----------



## SpywareDr

And then wrap some fire-proof/resistant cloth around the jaws so they don't suck all the heat out of the copper.


----------



## Solidify

I actually think the normal vise-grips you linked earlier would would better than those needle-nose ones just because they can get more surface area around the pipe when clamped. 

Joe, I tried using these (below) but can't get them to stay locked on the pipe. In other words, when I let go of the handles, the grooves open and let go of the pipe. I don't think I know how to use those pliers. :facepalm: Once I figure that out, I can get back to you if they will hold themselves up alone while clamped.


----------



## Panther063

I'd remove the paneling by cutting from the hole to the nearest edge so the pipe can slip through. Then you have a better view of what you are doing and more room to play.


----------



## WereBo

Solidify said:


> ................. unless the pliers will rest flush against the panel once they're on tight enough


Yep, that's the idea, using the Moles as a 3rd-hand. The panel will stop the pipe flopping about and the Moles will stop it sliding back through the hole. Also, the Moles will make a good heatsink to help prevent any damage behind the panel, while soldering the pipe :wink:


----------



## Basementgeek

I still fail to see why you dont replace the "T" with a connectors/joiner. You won't have to worry the a pipe that is capped off. Not to mention I say the valve is incorrect. You are going to have a wet shelf if you ever use it.

BG


----------



## SABL

Actually, what needs to be removed?? Is the pipe in the middle of a supply run?? 

Adjust the thumbscrew until you can get the handles of the ViseGrips together.......good luck getting the jaws into the small hole.


----------



## Basementgeek

Not to mention if you clamp down tight and bend/dent the pipe, the pipe will have to be replaced.

BG


----------



## Solidify

I'll put this project on hold for a little bit. I've taken all your recommendations to heart.


----------

