# Need Help Building My Own Computer



## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Im a hardcore gamer and have recently found a few games to be a lot better for computer then on the consoles. So i've decided to build my own gaming computer. The problem is, I have never built a computer before and am having trouble knowing if all the parts i've found are compatible for sure. It would be great if someone with experience in this could help me out. Here are the parts i've found.

Processor:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3574211&Sku=CP1-DUO-E8400

RAM: http://www.crucial.com/store/partspecs.aspx?IMODULE=CT2KIT51272AB667

Motherboard: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicat...ODE=CNETFEED&cm_mmc_o=2mHCjC2WHaCjCVqHCjCdwwp

DVD-ROM Drive: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4601629&CatId=88

Floppy Drive: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=313606&CatId=287

Video Card: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4111744&Sku=E145-9402

Hard Drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136284

Computer Case: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4177133&CatId=1842

Power Supply: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicat...?EdpNo=3276567&csid=ITD&body=MAIN#detailspecs

Monitor: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4420150&CatId=2775

As I said before I'm definately not an experienced computer builder but I really want a good computer and found building my own to be the only way to get the computer I want within a price range I can afford. If there is anything incompatible or I need something else please let me know and if you could give me any ideas on what i should get if somethings incompatible. Thanks for the help.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

First, buy somewhere other than Tiger Direct. Newegg is a much better online retailer.You will get precisely what you order and their support is the best I've found.
Asus and Gigabyte for a Mobo.
4GB of RAM is plenty and you want DDR2 800 (PC6400). Crucial id OK but Corsair XMS-G.Skill-OCZ-Mushkin are better choices.
I doubt you will ever have a need for a Floppy drive.
That Power Supply is NOT good. 
Look at this thread for some ideas and better quality hardware.


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## Old Rich (May 31, 2007)

I suggest you look at this for some ideas to get started


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Thanks simpswr, I forgot to post the link. :4-dontkno


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

Have to agree with the above comments. 

That's way too much in the ram department. Pricey, and slow. You can get a much better 2x2GB kit of 800 or 1066Mhz ram for much less than half that price. Before ordering ram, check with the manufacturer's configurator for guaranteed compatible ram. 

Intel makes excellent cpu's, but their motherboards leave something to be desired. Go with an Asus or Gigabyte P45 board. I use both, but prefer Asus, just my preference, I don't have any complaints about my Gigabyte board. 

For gaming, you want a little more than a low end card like the 9400. At a minimum get a 9600GT or 9600GSO. There are good deals on 9800GT's too, should be able to get one of those for a hundred or less.

Get a quality power supply, the psu is not the place to skimp on a system, yet so many do. Much to their chagrin. 

As mentioned, look at the sticky, there are some very good ideas in there. Perhaps a little bit of tweaking to fit your preferences, but you can't go wrong with those.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Okay thanks for the help, what video card would you suggest for this motherboard?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128358#spec
Im looking for this computer to have high quality graphics but a video card under $150


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Any PCI-E 2.0 graphics card will work with that Mobo.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Okay so I've looked over the computers following that link and found the 1200 dollar computer to be close to what I want, I have modified it a little. Here is my new hardware: 

Motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128358#spec

CPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115036

CPU Cooler: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118020

RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145214

Power Supply: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139009&Tpk=850tx

Video Card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102801

Hard Drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136298

Operating System: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116488

Computer Case: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4177133&CatId=1842

I really appreciate the help, and sorry for all the questions i've asked or will eventually....lol I just have no experience in this and hearing your opinions help me get a better idea on what i should do to make sure I get everything compatible so that I can build the computer I want to build.


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

The video card showed as not in stock, with a Sapphire, you should get a vapour-x card as they run cooler and quieter. The 4870 will handle pretty much anything, it's fairly new big brother, the 4890, is quite the card too for about 50 bucks more. Here's an in stock 4870 - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102825 

Unless your a huge Vista fan, it's worth the wait for win7, 22Oct is the release date, and you can run the release candidate till then. The iso and keys are available until the 20th of august. 
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windows-7/get/download.aspx

Nice case, though it does seem a tad odd to use the nVidia edition of the case when you're getting an ATI card, but what the heck, green is good eh.

I like the motherboard, ram, cpu and power supply selections. Corsairs are nice and quiet too, not to mention lots of single rail goodness. 

Everybody likes the Zalman heatsink. I don't use one personally, there's plenty of very good ones out there, seems like more every day. So many great heatsinks, and just not enough time to try them all.

All in all, you'll be happy with the performance, and it will also be quite overclockable.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Same case, no green light, $25 cheaper.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119137


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Okay thanks a lot, so I found the vapor x 4890 and also found another card that seems to have all the same specs as this card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102830, the second card is cheaper and has a warranty, so could you tell me if there is a huge difference between them and which one would be better for gaming?


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

I put a link to the ten buck more vapor-x 4890, it has free shipping, so would work out about the same as the other one. 
The biggest difference is the cooling solution. The vapor-x run cooler and quieter, depends on how much noise bothers you. I run Folding at Home on my GTX 285, have to crank the fan up to 70% in order to get acceptable temps on the gpu. When the fan is up like that, I find it too loud, not so much for myself, but because I'm subjecting others to that noise. So I'm putting on an aftermarket cooler next week. So on top of the rather large price, I'm adding another 70CAD (roughly) to that price, just for the sake of cooler and quieter. Why not get a card that runs that way out of the box?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102841 

That one is slightly overclocked, not that it matters, the 4890 is said to overclock very very well. 
Oh yah, 2 year warranty on the 4890 I linked. Good chance I'd be using that very card, if I didn't like nVidia's made by EVGA, lifetime warranty eh.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Okay I think I'll stick with the vapor-x 4890. Now I also had a question about my RAM. I chose the RAM's from the $1200 computer template but later found another RAM Package that has basically the same specs just $30 Cheaper and a different brand. Here is the $87 RAM package that I chose first: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145214

Then here is the $50 RAM package: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231166

Everyone who has gotten the cheaper set seem to really like them so I'm wondering if this drop in price is just the brand or is it quality?


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

Good question. Lot of people like G.Skill, it would most likely be fine. Both are 2.1volt, good for overclocking, same specs pretty much overall, as long as it works, should be fine.
Perhaps someone has used that particular ram and can let you know.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Alright thanks, so now I'm pretty sure I have my list of hardware that will make my computer, now my question is what sort of monitor should i look for, and I need to make sure it doesnt break the bank, hopefully something that is under $200. This computer will be gaming only and I want to stick with an LCD screen. I've found one that looks promising but not sure here it is: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824116400


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

Grim: what VGA cooler are you getting? Let me know how it works, I'm thinking of getting one for my 4870 since the fan I have sounds like someone is running a vacuum in the next room at 100%.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

That GSkill ram will work fine on the P45 chipset.


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

I've used the Arctic Cooling Accelero Twin Turbo on the 9800GT and it worked great, quiet even when running FAH. So, ordered another Arctic Cooling product, the Accelero Xtreme GTX280. Looks to be even easier to install than the twin turbo, instead of individual heat sinks for the ram chips and the vrm's, there's one sink to cover all with 3 pads that go under it. 3 x 92mm fans as opposed to the 2 x 80 on the twin turbo.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Is this monitor going to work? 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824116400


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

It should work fine, that's a nice resolution, most monitors in the 22 inch range are 1680x1050, I using one right now. This is a nice samsung, and I do like it, but have a 24inch Asus with 1920x1200 resolution and the picture is a lot better. Would use it on my main machine, but prefer to keep it on the one we watch movies on. Haven't used a viewsonic since the mid-90's, but they have always been a decent name, and I wouldn't have a problem getting one. Just don't expect anything from the built in speakers, I've never heard of any that sound like anything but cheap speakers. Get yourself a decent set, if you don't already have some.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Okay so I'm going to need decent speakers and a sound card as well? Or just new speakers? I still don't quite know exactly what I need for the computer to be complete, I just know some of the things that are required.


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

Just speakers, unless you already have some. A sound card can be nice in some cases, but unless you're doing recording or have a 7.1 speaker set, the motherboard's onboard sound should do fine.


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

Shouldn't need a sound card, most onboard is fine for normal use. Have a set of these Creative ones on my spare machine, they sound quite decent for a 50 buck set of speakers. Very good value for the money. 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16836116024 

It really depends on what you want your sound for. If you listen to a lot of music, you are fine with a nice set of 2.1 speakers. Some gamers swear by 5.1 with a soundcard that has something like Creative's EAX for positional audio. Hear the position of bad guys and all that eh. I use Logitech's Z-Cinema speakers on my main machine, they aren't without problems, but overall the sound is crisp and clear.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Okay so I have speakers from my old computer, could those work fine until I decide to upgrade? Am I going to need a sound card as well?


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Sorry about last post I was replying in the wrong thread


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Okay so I want to thank you all again and really appreciate all the help. I think I have found the final parts to my new gaming computer. It would be great if I could get a final okay on making sure everything will work and any personal opinions of how it should do. And if I missed anything, (hopefully I didn't) let me know. 
Here is my new computer:

Motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128358#spec

Processor: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115036

Power Supply: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139009&Tpk=850tx

Hard Drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136319

Software: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116488

RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231166 (I'm getting 2 sets)

Video Card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102841

Case: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicat....asp?EdpNo=4177133&csid=ITD&body=REVIEWS#tabs

Monitor: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824116400

Case Fan: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicat...?EdpNo=4675263&csid=ITD&body=MAIN#detailspecs (I'm getting 3)

CPU Cooler: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118020

If someone could look this system over and let me know its all going to work I would really appreciate it. Thanks again.


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

Instead of that Coolermaster I would get an Antec 900 for a few bucks more, partly because it has better airflow, partly because using an Nvidia case for a system with an ATI GPU is a little odd.  Also, instead of the Coolermaster fan get an Antec TriCool or a Scythe fan, they are much quieter and more more air. 

You don't need 8GB of RAM, 4GB should be sufficient. The highest RAM usage I've ever seen (updated from last time, guys!) was with Left4Dead, OpenOffice.org Writer, ATI Catalyst Control Center, Pidgin, VirtualBox running Ubuntu 9.04 running three FireFox windows, plus Avast anti-virus scan. RAM usage was 3.79GB. Unless you're going to be doing games AND virtualization/video editing at the same time, you'll never need 8GB of RAM.

Finally, I would download the Windows 7 RC version, so that you can put off buying your operating system. Windows 7 is basically a slightly thinner version of Vista with an updated UI, so it's worth saving some money and getting it now.

Otherwise it looks good. Hope it works for ya'.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Okay thanks I like that new case, now what case fan would you go for that is somewhat cheap compared to others, but still gets the job done, I thought this fan looked promising:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209005


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

Excellent case fan there. Do you mean you picked the Coolermaster or the Antec? Either one is fine, really, but I would pick the Antec 300 or 900.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Also, I am a little hesitant on getting the win 7, because when it comes to getting technical with the software I am really lost in that department, I can build the computer, but is downloading the win 7 software and getting it running as easy and setting up vista right out of the box? I also saw a somethings on the download page that said your system will shut down at one point over and over and things like that, so could you shine a little light on what thats about and if I will be okay or not getting it over vista?


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

I am looking at getting the Antec case now, the main reason in getting the Coolermaster was because of how many fans it could hold. Would I keep my system just as cool with the Antec case?


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

Installing Windows 7 means downloading it from Microsoft's site here:
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windows-7/get/download.aspx
Follow their instructions. Burn the .iso file to a blank DVD using a program like this one: http://www.ntfs.com/iso-burning.htm That program is free, installs in about two minutes, is lightweight, and will quickly and easily burn the .iso for you. Then you insert the disk into the computer you want to install Windows 7 on and reboot. It should load up the DVD and start the installation process. If it's a blank hard drive just let it write it to it, if you already have Vista on there it will upgrade it and save all your old stuff to a folder called C:\windows.old. When the install is done you restart the computer and it should have Windows 7 installed just fine.


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

The Antec 300 case would keep your system about as cool, or cooler, than the Centurion you're considering, but for about $20 cheaper. The Antec 900 would keep it cooler for sure, what with two 120mm front fans, a 120mm side fan (you need to supply that yourself), a 120mm back fan, and a 200mm top fan. But it's a bit more expensive, so your call. I have an Antec 900 and it's a very, very nice case.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

So after comparing these two fans I am not sure which one is better the coolermaster or the Antec?

Antec:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209005

Coolermaster: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicat...?EdpNo=4675264&csid=ITD&body=MAIN#detailspecs


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Okay so testing out the win 7 program would save me a hundred bucks right now and end up being a better program in the long run anyway?


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

The Coolermaster fan claims to move 90CFM of air at only 19dbA of sound. I don't believe that, personally. I don't care what type of fan it is, at 90CFM with a 120mm fan you're looking at at least 30dbA. I know the Antec fan works; there are three in my case. It isn't a huge deal, there's a $2 difference, and the noise level difference isn't likely to be huge, so it's up to you.


EDIT: Yes, Windows 7 would be the better choice at the moment. You'll have to pay for it eventually, but you won't have to upgrade in the future.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Okay I'll go with your word lol, Antec case, might as well get Antec fans, I just wanna make sure I keep everything cool and don't fry the first computer I ever build.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

How much does it look like it will cost when win 7 comes out?


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

Don't worry, even without the side fan you won't fry it; cooler temperatures are just preferable because they slow degradation of the parts and slightly improve performance. 

The danger levels for different parts are as such:
CPU: 70C+
GPU: 80C+ sustained (higher is acceptable for short periods up to 100C on some cards, but try to avoid it except during extreme stress testing)
Motherboard/system: 60-70C
PSU: 60C
HDD: 60C

You're unlikely to see anywhere near those temps as long as you have a mid-tower case with a front-to-back airflow and maybe clean the dust out of the fans every few months. The Antec 900 will just keep it even cooler is all. My temps in my Antec case with a Thermaltake V1 CPU fan, recorded with SpeedFan (CPU temp adjusted up 3C due to discrepancy with BIOS temp):
CPU (idle): 26C
CPU (load): 43C
CPU (Prime95 load): 56C
System: 31C
AUX: 25C
HDD: 30C
GPU (idle): 46C
GPU (load): 58C
GPU (FurMark load): 70-95C


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

No idea on the cost of Windows 7. You need a crystal ball to predict Microsoft. I'd guess that by December it'll cost $100-120 at most.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Because I don't want to download win 7 then come October end up having to dish out a lot of money I might not have.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Okay so I should be good with keeping my system cool then, how are you able to see what temp all of your hardware is running at?


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

Speedfan: http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php
GPU-Z: http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/1379/mirrors.php


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Okay thanks, so I have been looking at liquid cooling systems, and they seem to be somewhat tough to install, are they really that difficult?


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

Yes, liquid cooling is definitely not for beginners. Very complicated to install, you have to pay a lot of money for a decent kit ($250 minimum for one that won't break on you), and there's a lot higher risk of something getting screwed up. Stick with air cooling. If you're worried about CPU temps you can get an aftermarket CPU heatsink, which is only slightly tougher to install than a stock heatsink. If you want to go that route you'll want one of these:
Arctic Freezer 7: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186134 - $31.98
Zalman 9700: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118020 - $54.99
Zalman 9900: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118046&Tpk=Zalman 9900 - $59.98
Thermaltake V1: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106102&Tpk=Thermaltake V1 - $61.15
Pick one to suit your budget. I have a Thermaltake V1, but when I got it it was about $50, cheaper than either the 9700 or 9900. I don't know how its performance compares to the Zalman units, but it's worked quite nicely for me so far.

And also a tube of this:
Arctic Silver 5: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100007 - $8.95

And follow these directions:


Phædrus2401 said:


> CPUs aren't that complicated. You remove the heatsink, undo the little locking lever, lift up the metal cap thing, and carefully lift it out, handling it by the edges. Do the opposite to put it back in. It isn't so hard. For what a CPU looks like:
> http://www.pc-outfitters.com/catalog/images/core2_duo.jpg
> http://www.bmbtech.com.au/shop/shop/images/Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 3.00GHz.jpg
> Do not touch the side with all the copper contacts. It's the side that goes down and interfaces with the motherboard and you don't want oil from your fingers blocking the current. Otherwise, as long as you don't drop it and don't get it wet you don't need to worry about screwing it up. It's not so difficult, trust me. I built a computer from parts at age 17, and though I did make a screw up it was due to insufficient research, and we're providing you with all the information you need.
> ...


Only in your case you won't have to remove the CPU to clean it as you'll have it before you install it in the motherboard.


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## 05MustangGT (Jul 5, 2009)

FYI

the mobo you choose is uATX, make sure you get a uATX case.


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

????

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128358#spec
Standard ATX motherboard. Do you mean the one from his original post? Yeah, that might have been a problem, but not now.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Okay so isn't this a CPU Cooling fan? 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118020


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

Yes it is. If you're concerned about CPU overheating, or if you want to overclock, you'll want something like that.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

I just found this one, and a lot of people have bought it and really love it, the only thing is that its somewhat big I guess, what do you think about it?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductReview.aspx?Item=N82E16835186134


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

That's one of the ones I linked you to above. It's smaller and not quite as effective as the Zalman 9700, but it's still a very good heatsink and if you don't want to spend as much or if you're worried about space it's probably a good one.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

So the Zalman 9700 is the best heat sink?


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

I guess i'm just confused with the specs for them because i'll see one that looks better than others then I find out its worse


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

Well, the larger the fan the better generally, since larger fans move more air, and the Zalman 9700 and Thermaltake V1 both have 110mm fans, while the Arctic Freezer 7 has a 92mm fan. Also, copper heatsinks are better than aluminum, as copper has a higher thermal conductivity. The Zalman 9900 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118046&Tpk=Zalman 9900 has a 120mm fans and is probably the best one I've linked to, it's for a very good price, I say get that one.

KEEP IN MIND that the stock heatsink WILL do just fine, the aftermarket heatsink is optional. If you're going to be overclocking, get the Zalman 9900. If you just want your CPU to run a little bit cooler, but you don't want to overclock, save a bit of money and get the Arctic Freezer 7.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

I think I will get the Zalman 9900, now what exactly is "overclocking"?


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

The other advantage of the AC7 is that it's quieter then the stock fan and will do mild OC.


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

Overclocking is when you run the component faster than the manufacturer's specifications. For instance, my processor is sold as a 2.2GHz processor, but I have it overclocked to 2.86GHz, and can get it stable at 3.1GHz. Parts most commonly overclocked are the CPU, RAM, and graphics card. Overclocking improves performance, but increase the heat your components generate, increases the amount of power they draw, increases chances of errors and instability, and voids the warranty.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

How do you overclock?


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

Start by reading this: http://www.techsupportforum.com/f27...erclocking-read-here-for-starters-232382.html


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

So after looking at what overclocking is about and what is required to do it I can't say that I'm ready to give my computer a bigger risk of frying just yet. Without overclocking my system I should still have a good quality gaming computer right?


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

Yup, should be a nice performance gaming computer, capable of playing most games at there at or close to the highest settings.


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## Old Rich (May 31, 2007)

Good call!!!


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

I've been looking at the win 7 details and it seems like there are a lot of things that can go wrong with it, it also says not to run it on a primary computer. Are you using the candidate? Is there any huge problems I need to worry about?


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## Old Rich (May 31, 2007)

I loaded it on one Desktop and on my new Dell laptop . . beats Vista like a drum!! Much faster and less intrusve. Mine is at least as fast as XP

The warning about not loadiong on the primary PC is because it is not yet the final release. I use the 32 bit version, If I had to to do again ( and I will next year ) I would have installed the 64 bit version


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Okay and installing it now requires me to buy it when it releases right?


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## Old Rich (May 31, 2007)

. . or go with another operating system


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

So I don't have to buy it right when it comes out? I can leave the candidate until I can get the money for the actual program?


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## Old Rich (May 31, 2007)

From the Windows 7 download page:

The RC will expire on June 1, 2010. Starting on March 1, 2010, your PC will begin shutting down every two hours. Windows will notify you two weeks before the bi-hourly shutdowns start. To avoid interruption, you'll need to install a non-expired version of Windows before March 1, 2010


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Okay so you suggest getting win 7 for my new computer then?


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## Old Rich (May 31, 2007)

That's your call . . but it is a option if you don't mind doing another install by next March


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Well it could save me money which I would like to do, and installing it isn't very hard


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## Old Rich (May 31, 2007)

It will delay your having to spend money, but you will have to buy it next year


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Right, but not until march 1st unless I want it before then right?


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Should I download 64-bit or 32-bit for my computer?


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

64 bit


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Agreed 64 bit win 7 is good.


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

Haha, cool, my username is blue now.

Just to point out why you want 64-bit, a 32-bit OS will only be able to "see" ~3.25GB of RAM, total, while a 64-bit OS will see much more (Vista/7 will see up to 128GB, though you're limited by the maximum capacity of your motherboard). Aside from that you will see almost no difference between 32-bit and 64-bit, so it's worthwhile to go 64.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Also I'm planning on hooking up to the wireless network that I already have at my home so I'll need a wireless networking adapter, will win 7 affect this ?


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

It depends. It screwed up the drivers on mine, but that's not guaranteed to happen with all wireless network cards. Try Googling "windows 7 compatible wireless network card" and see what comes up.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

What are the drivers? Sorry but I'd like to know everything I can figure out about this computer I'm going to build and I don't know much


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Device_driver

Basically allows your operating system to interface with your hardware. You'll need to install drivers for your video card, network device (may be on motherboard, but you'll still need drivers), sound device (may also be on motherboard), and any add-on PCI cards like a network card. Without drivers you'll have only very basic functionality.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Phae Congrats on the new color.

Was your Wifi card Vista 64 compatible?


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

So drivers come with the hardware you purchase? You don't have to buy drivers too?


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## Old Rich (May 31, 2007)

You should have a motherboard drivers on a cd that came with the motherboard . . if not, you can download the drivers from the manufacturers support site.

Win7 lloaded all the drivers on both the systems I installed it on . . I would install with the wireless card out, then put it in after the installation is updated


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

Nope, drivers should come on a CD with the part, just pop in the CD and follow the install instructions for each driver CD. You can also download more recent version of the drivers (which may contain optimizations and bug fixes) but you'll need access to internet for that, and thus you'll need to have your network driver installed at least to download them.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Now I keep hearing wireless card. Whats the wireless card? I thought those were for laptops only?


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## Phædrus241 (Mar 28, 2009)

You said:


> Also I'm planning on hooking up to the wireless network that I already have at my home so I'll need a wireless networking adapter, will win 7 affect this?


wireless network adaptor = wireless network card
You can either get an external one, which plugs into a USB port on your computer, or you can get an internal one that plugs into a PCI slot on your motherboard. They usually are similar in price. I prefer internal ones because A.) they don't take up a USB port and B.) there's less likelihood of someone bumping against it and breaking it. You'll still need drivers for it either way, though there's a chance Windows will automatically find drivers for an external one. I wouldn't bet either way though.


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## Old Rich (May 31, 2007)

<GEEK> said:


> Also I'm planning on hooking up to the wireless network that I already have at my home so I'll need a wireless networking adapter, will win 7 affect this ?


You can't connect to a wireless network without a wireless network card ( Adaptor )


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

The Wifi can either be a expansion card like a modem, sound or video card is or even a USB dongle, most motherboards don't have integrated Wifi like they do wired network. but some do.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Oh okay I understand now, well I have a Netgear WG111v2 wireless adapter that plugs into a USB port from my old computer but can find anywhere to figure out if its win 7 compatible.


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## Old Rich (May 31, 2007)

Look for Vista drivers . . they should work . . chances are that Win7 will load thedrivers


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Okay, I don't think the adapter came with any driver disk, so I'm guessing it was already on the motherboard, what?


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Or what? I meant or what


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## Old Rich (May 31, 2007)

Look on the Netgear support site for the drivers


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

Depending on the location of your router, it my be easier to just run some ethernet cable (RJ45) to it and plug that into the onboard port on the motherboard's rear panel. When you install the drivers from the motherboard cd, you'll install lan drivers so that the port will work. 
Once you install windows, you run the motherboard cd and install the chipset driver, then put in the lan and sound drivers. Or, just do the install all option, that's the easiest way. If your installing the 64 bit version on windows, use the vista64 drivers, though it should auto-detect the operating system version. I can't remember if windows7 was autodetected or not, but I think I just selected to install them all. 
Just because you have wireless, doesn't mean that's the only way to connect, most routers also have four wired ports. I've got a hundred foot network cable for one of the machines here.


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## <GEEK> (Jul 24, 2009)

Alrighty thanks a lot for everyones help, hopefully I can get everything ordered and here so I can put it together by next week. Thanks again.


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## Old Rich (May 31, 2007)

Have fun!!


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