# Windows 10 comparatively slower than Windows 7



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Hi guys,

I upgraded my Windows PC from 7 to 10 this summer about the time those free upgrade notifications began displaying on my taskbar and I'm misfortuned to say that I feel Windows 10 is overall much slower than Windows 7 (at least for my PC).

Is there a way someone could give me advice on how to speed up my PC or run through some troubleshooting steps to help rule out the issue here? Logging into our Windows user accounts takes forever, and so does shutting down. I know for a fact Windows 10 wasn't this slow when I had just finished the upgrade. 

I'm fairly certain it's not malware since eset online scanner did not return anything.

Any help is greatly appreciated.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

Let's take a look at your system hardware specifications. Please follow this guide on how to get those specifications:

How to find your system specifications - Tech Support Forum


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

http://speccy.piriform.com/results/qQWgdYXhh8gwkIdy4vgYWRP

Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 430W


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

I would say that your slowness is due to your 32bit OS.


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## JMPC (Jan 15, 2011)

Windows 10 by default has a lot more going on in the background than Windows 7 did. I would guess if you looked at resource monitor you would see a lot of disk activity which could be contributing to the perceived slowness.

Replacing your boot drive with an SSD would be the easiest way to improve the system performance.

Here's some other things you can do to try and speed up Windows 10:

Optimize Performance of Windows 10 - Windows 10 Forums

https://tweakhound.com/2015/12/09/tweaking-windows-10/

How to Easily Remove Bloatware from Windows 10


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## OldGrayGary (Jun 29, 2006)

This tip might well be in one of the linked articles, but it's one that has helped some of my clients (so I thought it might deserve special mention) ---

One tweak I imagine might help is if you look in on your Indexing Options. Since you have a fairly large amount of data on more hard drives than average, you can limit the Indexing going on. If you can, make sure no programs are adding to your indexing overhead (not indexing music, photos, videos, ... etc.) ...
_______________

I also noticed that if you have a fair number of computers on whatever local network you are connected to (at home or at a small business) ... it can help to change a setting in Windows Update so that your computer isn't being constantly accessed by the other computers = downloading Windows Updates that you've already got to their computers [can make for a surprisingly busy amount of overhead]
Windows Start icon - Settings - Update & Security - Windows Update - Advanced options - Change how updates are delivered - set "Updates from more than one place" to OFF. Note that this setting can be turned on by some very rude, crude, and unappealing Windows Updates [a "Cumulative Rollup recently changed it back to ON on one of my Windows 10 laptops... ugh... had to change it back AGAIN today]

I imagine a clean install of Windows 10 64 bit might not be an option you are interested in ... but it would help -- especially if your board can upgrade to 8 GB from the 4 GB. It would benefit even if you keep the memory at 4 GB: because it could finally use the entire 4 GB (it uses a bit less, 3.5 or so, in the 32 bit environment).


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

> Replacing your boot drive with an SSD would be the easiest way to improve the system performance.


I would be open to that with the only issue being the considerable drawback in hard drive capacity that comes with SSD, assuming I don't want to spend a fortune. You see, all of the SATA ports on my motherboard are in use since I used this PC as a NAS of some kind (2 x 3TB HDDs for media content, 1 x 1TB HDD for my C drive, and another 1TB HDD to backup/mirror my C drive on a daily basis, incase of failure). The other 2 SATA ports are used for my optical drive and my Rosewill multifunction USB and SD card hub.

My C drive has 447GB of 930GB free, which would take an expensive/big SSD to replace it. This is also the drive that anything not related to media and just general PC stuff is stored on (we're 4 users on this PC).



> Since you have a fairly large amount of data on more hard drives than average, you can limit the Indexing going on. If you can, make sure no programs are adding to your indexing overhead (not indexing music, photos, videos, ... etc.) ...


Can you more thoroughly explain to me what would change if I removed/limited indexing on my PC as well as how to accomplish this?



> I also noticed that if you have a fair number of computers on whatever local network you are connected to (at home or at a small business) ... it can help to change a setting in Windows Update so that your computer isn't being constantly accessed by the other computers = downloading Windows Updates that you've already got to their computers [can make for a surprisingly busy amount of overhead]
> 
> Windows Start icon - Settings - Update & Security - Windows Update - Advanced options - Change how updates are delivered - set "Updates from more than one place" to OFF. Note that this setting can be turned on by some very rude, crude, and unappealing Windows Updates [a "Cumulative Rollup recently changed it back to ON on one of my Windows 10 laptops... ugh... had to change it back AGAIN today]


This is my desktop/family computer that I just so happen to have 2 x 3TB HDDs which house all our media content (such as films and TV shows). The PC is connected to the wireless router. Then I have two HTPCs that connect to this router which stream the content from these drives on a daily basis. This is what you are seeing.

You advise to "change a setting in Windows Update so that your computer isn't being constantly accessed by the other computers," however, my desktop computer requires being constantly accesses by the other two HTPCs to stream the content, so I just wanted to buy this out there before I follow the above instructions.



> I imagine a clean install of Windows 10 64 bit might not be an option you are interested in ... but it would help -- especially if your board can upgrade to 8 GB from the 4 GB. It would benefit even if you keep the memory at 4 GB: because it could finally use the entire 4 GB (it uses a bit less, 3.5 or so, in the 32 bit environment).


I'll find try running through the links JMPC supplied, and if that doesn't work, I'll opt for the 64-bit OS.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

> Optimize Performance of Windows 10 - Windows 10 Forums
> 
> https://tweakhound.com/2015/12/09/tweaking-windows-10/
> 
> How to Easily Remove Bloatware from Windows 10


I've just gone through these links and applied a few that I thought would be beneficial while disregarding those that I surely did not need. However, these is no significant difference after using my computer. 

Is there a way that I could share performance from my task manager window while I'm using the computer and subsequently share it on TSF so you guys can give me a better idea of what is hogging up my PC?


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## JMPC (Jan 15, 2011)

I'd suggest looking at memory, CPU and disk usage in Resource Monitor while the system is slow and take screenshots of the screens.

My guess is it's going to be heavy disk activity but it's possible something is consuming a lot of CPU cycles.

Windows Admin: Monitoring Your PC with Resource Monitor and Task Manager


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## Deejay100six (Nov 24, 2007)

Solidify said:


> Is there a way that I could share performance from my task manager window while I'm using the computer and subsequently share it on TSF so you guys can give me a better idea of what is hogging up my PC?


I think what you suggest would require a remote connection. We won't do that.

If you follow the http://www.techsupportforum.com/for...ions-windows-10-8-1-8-7-and-vista-452654.html but obviously post the results here, not in the BSOD forum. A Perfmon report is created by the app.

That way, our experts will get a better idea of whats happening.

Edit; Sorry, I neglected to read JMPC' reply properly, of course that will probably be easier. :blush:


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## jenae (Jun 17, 2008)

Hi, OldGreyGary's, suggestion regarding indexing would be the first place to look, this is a good article:-

Turn Off Indexing in Windows for Better Performance

Black Vipers services site would help you have a lot of processes running Bonjour is one I would definitely disable. You are using all your accessible ram and are dipping into the VM (which is slower).

Ideally you are pushing the boundary's for a 32bit system, if the budget allows you should go for a up spec 64 bit unit a i7 processor and 8+ ram (16, if you can), SSD of 500 gb for the OS.


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## OldGrayGary (Jun 29, 2006)

... if you get a larger-than-expected tax refund this year [  ] ... 

A high-end desktop that could handle things well for $630 (Dell XPS w. Skylake i7, 8 GB ram, 1 TB hdd, 2 GB nVidia discrete graphics, Gigabit LAN... )
Dell XPS 8900 Intel Core i7-6700 Quad-core Desktop (8GB DDR4, 2GB GPU) $619.99 - Techbargains

A mid-range desktop from Asus with a Skylake i5 for $450 ...
Asus M32CD Intel Core i5-6400 Quad-Core SKYLAKE Desktop (8GB DDR4) $450 - Techbargains

.... things have changed since I paid $1700 for my Windows-for-WorkGroups (Windows 3.11) Intel 486 desktop PC ....


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

If I were to buy an SSD and up the RAM, given my PC's specs in my signature, which would you guys recommend for both quality and compatibility's sake?


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## OldGrayGary (Jun 29, 2006)

Hi again

*Sata for an SSD*
I'm a little surprised Rosewill made a USB/SD-card-reader with a SATA connector. If the hub you bought has the option to use either a Sata connector or a couple of internal USB on-board connectors, use the USB on-board connectors option. (Looks like your board has three internal USB on-board connectors)... If your hub doesn't have the option to connect to the motherboard's internal USB connectors, I'd expect you could find a hub much like the one you have now, but that connects to the motherboard's internal USB on-board connectors, and fits into a desktop case 3.5" slot (where the old floppy drives used to go).

That would free up a SATA port for an internal 120 GB SSD for the operating system. (You could go to 240 GB, but I'd think 120 would be enough, so long as the data libraries are stored on the big spinners. But - since prices are so low lately - it's only about $20-$30 more to go for the 240 GB). Depending on the hub you have, you might even have room for the SSD in the same 3.5" case bracket. If your case has two of the 3.5" brackets - no worries: they each "get their own room". As far as my favorites, the Samsung EVO SSDs have been getting consistently good reviews, and the 120 GB drives go as low as the $50-$60 range on sale. Heck, the 240 GB no-name drives sometimes sell in that same range. The EVOs are currently about $70 and $90 for the 120 GB & 240 GB models at NewEgg ... they do go on sale periodically for less.
SAMSUNG 850 EVO 2.5" 120GB SATA III 3-D Vertical Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) MZ-75E120B/AM - Newegg.com

All your other drives can stay where they are: you'd convert the current system drive to a data drive. 

*Memory*
This is a good time to shop for DDR3 memory, the prices have fallen quite a bit. I believe your board has just the two slots (if you have the mini version). If you have two 2 GB sticks now, you'll probably want to replace them both with a two-stick kit. If you currently have one 4 GB stick, see if you can find an exact-match to pair it with. I have lots of favorites for memory, but I suppose my safest bets are generally Crucial, Samsung, or Kingston. Check your motherboard specs to see if it has any special voltage range for its slots (the low-power modules are popular in laptops and minis ... since your board is on the small side, can't hurt to check the voltage requirements). 

The specs I saw for your board show a maximum of 32 GB (2 x 16) a very generous amount: I was surprised.

Examples:
$19 Kingston HyperX 1 x 4 GB module DDR3-1866 [4 GB Total]
HyperX Fury White Series 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 Desktop Memory Model HX318C10FW/4 - Newegg.com
$35 Kingston HyperX 2 x 4 GB kit DDR3-1866 [8 GB Total]
HyperX FURY 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 Desktop Memory Model HX318C10FK2/8 - Newegg.com
$68 Kingston HyperX 2 x 8 GB kit DDR3-1866 [16 GB Total]
HyperX Fury White Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 Desktop Memory Model HX318C10FWK2/16 - Newegg.com

The prices listed here are nice, but on sale these can be even nicer.

That's the news on the shopping side of life ...


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

Take note that a memory upgrade would mean you need to install a 64bit version of Windows.


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## satrow (Feb 4, 2012)

Solidify said:


> http://speccy.piriform.com/results/qQWgdYXhh8gwkIdy4vgYWRP


The Speccy data indicates you are using hacked/cracked software, can you please remove all such software and re-upload a fresh Speccy report before continuing this topic?


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

satrow said:


> The Speccy data indicates you are using hacked/cracked software, can you please remove all such software and re-upload a fresh Speccy report before continuing this topic?


Which software are you referring to?


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

JMPC said:


> I'd suggest looking at memory, CPU and disk usage in Resource Monitor while the system is slow and take screenshots of the screens.
> 
> My guess is it's going to be heavy disk activity but it's possible something is consuming a lot of CPU cycles.
> 
> Windows Admin: Monitoring Your PC with Resource Monitor and Task Manager


FYI, I disabled Indexing entirely. Let's see if that helps.

Does this help?


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## satrow (Feb 4, 2012)

Clean off the cracked software and upload a fresh Speccy report, please.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

satrow said:


> Clean off the cracked software and upload a fresh Speccy report, please.


Can you tell me which software is showing up as cracked Satrow; my friend formatted this PC for me so I don't know what I need to uninstall or what he may have installed that is "cracked."


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## satrow (Feb 4, 2012)

How about any pay software that you haven't paid for, you remember what you bought, don't you?

EDIT: I'll be afk for some hours, if you have the fresh Speccy report ready to post, PM an online Staff member and ask for it to be unlocked for you.

EDIT #2: Back now and re-opened.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Satrow, thanks for re-opening this thread. Sorry I haven't had a chance to reply sooner; I've been quite busy,

So I spoke to the person that reformatted my computer and he informed me that the following items are cracked:


Windows 10 OS (he said windows 7 that I had wasnt genuine but the upgrade to windows 10 made it genuine but I'm not sure what that means)
MBAM
He said that some of the Adobe products may be cracked but can't remember.
Microsoft Office

I am planning to buy windows 10 64bit at Best Buy. I have already uninstalled MBAM. I'm waiting to get further instructions before I uninstall office and the adobe products since I use those regularly and still need them until the day I reinstall a genuine version of windows.

With that being said, I'd like to know what components exactly do I need to upgrade to make this puppy run fast like it used to (specifically, I'm looking for product recommendations (links))? 

You can refer to previous posts to see what I'm currently running (or my signature).

Any help is appreciated.


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