# Briggs & Stratton 22HP flooding



## Clydesdale

*Hi all........ :wave:

I have a B&S 22hp, Intek V-twin, model 40777, type: 0131 E1, Code: 041202YG; only about 4 years old

I start the engine no problem, runs smooth fast, slow etc... but when I engage the snowblower (electric switch), it floods to a point where it's hardly running. I have to pinch the fuel line to cut the fuel supply and then it eventually runs smooth again. The engine also back fires once in a while when idling.

I changed the fuel filter and new fuel pump; same thing. I installed a carb kit and still the same. I didn't see anything wrong with the carb while dismantling & while installing the kit.

The float is good; no leaks.

Definitely runs on both cylinders. Remove one plug wire off at one time while running and big difference. Did a compression test; one cyl is @ 155 lbs, the other @ 130 lbs. Could that be causing the problem? The manual shows it's good under 25% difference between both cylinders; it has 16% so that shouldn't be the problem.

Now if I throttle up fast, it floods ... with or without the air breather; makes no difference. This is also without engaging the blower. With the new carb kit, it hasn't made a difference at all. Not much to rebuilding those carbs. Float is not even adjustable. 

I put new spark plugs; no difference.

I'm getting frustrated as heck with this engine. :upset:

Any ideas, please? :4-dontkno

Thanks in advance.

PS. I swear I'll never buy a garden tractor with a Briggs & Stratton engine ever again. This is my third tractor in 19 years with major problems ..... Never again! You can bank on that.*


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## Clydesdale

*Wow, 31 views ....... I'm surprise nobody's got any suggestions. 

I will re-adjust the governor and see what happens.*:4-dontkno


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## Basementgeek

Hi ad welcome to TSF :wave:

Sorry no one got back to you, so I guess no one knows why.

I had a hard time searching as your model number is missing a 7, it is most likely a model 407777.

I see what you mean on the float assembly, one piece plastic. 
Also notice that "seat" of the needle and seat is not replaceable.

I would say if you replace the float, as it is not part of the rebuild kit, you are looking at a new carb maybe.

B&S engine generally pretty good. Naturally that depends on the amount of use (hours) or abuse. May 18 HP B&S was built in 1984, runs strong always, but I only use 1.5 hours a week, 9 months a year.

Wish we be of more help here. 

Here is the instructions on how to take it apart if this would help:

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_intek_v-twin_carb.asp

There is a page 1 and a page 2.

Also:

http://eparts.briggsandstratton.com...e=No&selAssem=133099&mdDescrip=407777-0131-E1

BG


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## Clydesdale

*Thanks for the reply Basementgeek.

I called & talked to a Technician at B&S yesterday and he told me to re-adjust the govenor.

I'll do it sometimes this weekend & report back.*
:smile:


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## Basementgeek

Keep us posted, please.

BG


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## mstpops

hi clydesdale 

1 thought ?

have you checked that the float bowl vent tube is located in a nuetral air pressure location and is not getting pressurized air flow from flywheel fan being allowed to pressurize float bowl and cause it to flood , 

the fuel tank is not mounted too high above the fuel pump is it 

this can cause the fuel pump to not shut off and allows flooding 
but only if tank has been moved or modified from oem spec 

generally tanks are mounted quite low and fuel pumps are used to lift fuel and supply to carbs and should stop flowing fuel when engine is off if it continues to flow with motor off too much head pressure above pump and is gravity flowing through pump 


cheers mstpops






try relocating bowl vent tubing to a nuetral air pressure zone on engine


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## Clydesdale

mstpops said:


> hi clydesdale
> 
> 1 thought ?
> 
> have you checked that the float bowl vent tube is located in a nuetral air pressure location and is not getting pressurized air flow from flywheel fan being allowed to pressurize float bowl and cause it to flood ,
> 
> the fuel tank is not mounted too high above the fuel pump is it
> 
> this can cause the fuel pump to not shut off and allows flooding
> but only if tank has been moved or modified from oem spec
> 
> generally tanks are mounted quite low and fuel pumps are used to lift fuel and supply to carbs and should stop flowing fuel when engine is off if it continues to flow with motor off too much head pressure above pump and is gravity flowing through pump
> 
> 
> cheers mstpops
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> try relocating bowl vent tubing to a nuetral air pressure zone on engine


*There's a bowl vent? Where?

Here's the latest.........

I've been in communications by phone & msn messenger with a B&S certified technician and we've gone through many things. I re-adjusted the valves on piston # 1 and now have compression @ 145 & 150 on # 2. Even after that, the problem was still there. I removed the flywheel to check the key to make sure the timing was not out but the key was like new; all was good. I checked the coil adjustment; all was good. It did run better, almost flawless for 5 to 10 mins then back to the same problem.... floods and when idling, it was backfiring lots. I was thinking if the vent on the fuel tank gas cap was plugged, it would create a vacuum in the tank thus causing the opposite of flooding right??? NOT! For the heck of it, I unscrewed the cap and the engine probably runs better then when I bought it; the idle is running flawless without a hiccup and no back firing at all. It never idled properly since I bought it new from John Deere. It now runs really good at full throttle and with engaging the blower on & off. However, the problem is still there if I throttle too fast; if I do it slow, it's good. Yes, the vent on the gas cap is now clean. Why would it flood if there's a vacuum in the tank; should be the opposite????? 

The To be honest, I don't really know what the problem was except for the gas cap. I never did touch the governor as I didn't believe that was the problem. So, it's almost there. If I figure out the fast throttle problem, I'll let you guys know. I want to thank you all for your help & ideas.*


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## GreasGenie

I was searching for a solution for my outboard engine when I came cross this post.

It actually makes sense. The hole in the gas cap is to release the pressure build up inside the tank( from gas evaporation). Any vibration from the engine running especially with the blower on would increase the gas build up in the tank. The pressure will cause the overflow of carb.


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## Clydesdale

GreasGenie said:


> I was searching for a solution for my outboard engine when I came cross this post.
> 
> It actually makes sense. The hole in the gas cap is to release the pressure build up inside the tank( from gas evaporation). Any vibration from the engine running especially with the blower on would increase the gas build up in the tank. The pressure will cause the overflow of carb.


*Well, it turns out that's not the case here because it's right back to the same problem shortly after my last reply.

Been over 6 months now and with the help of "B&S expert technicians" from another site, nobody still can't figure it out. I'm so frustrated :upset: with this piece of c**p that I'm totally speechless.* :upset:


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## GreasGenie

I would say it is your carb float. I know it is one piece plstic float. Once I was able to fix it on an older engine. I cut out a piece of aluminum can and used it as shim and it worked. You just have to make sure it stays in place once you put everything back together. If my memory is right it was something like this.


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## Clydesdale

GreasGenie said:


> I would say it is your carb float. I know it is one piece plstic float. Once I was able to fix it on an older engine. I cut out a piece of aluminum can and used it as shim and it worked. You just have to make sure it stays in place once you put everything back together. If my memory is right it was something like this.


*I'll try anything and I will try that; thanks.

Here's a video I took last night and posted on youtube.*

YouTube - B&S 22hp.MOV


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## mikeinri

I'd replace the gas cap and carb (with new ones). There have been other users here that have reported issues with these carbs that don't go away even after a rebuild, but a new carb fixes it.

Good luck, that would drive me insane too.

Mike


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## Clydesdale

*I tried what you suggested GreasGenie and still the same. 

By now, I'm bloody sick & tired of the piece of c**t :upset: so I'm going to order a new carb like you suggested mikeinri.

Been over 6 months now. I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER B & S ever again!!!!

I'll be back in a few weeks with an update; 2 weeks to get the carb @ $225. + taxes.*


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## Clydesdale

*I'm back. :wave:

I couldn't wait 2 weeks as my lawn is about a foot tall now so I had it flown in. To my surprise, the new carb is slightly different; the bowl is not as deep and the solenoid is mounted on the side instead of the bottom of the bowl. I questioned & asked the parts man to double check to make sure it was the right carb before I paid for it and sure enough, it was the right carb.

Put the new carb on and it works flawless. Being the new carb is a bit different, got me thinking if there's flaw in the old design? I'm not done yet with B&S as I want my money back for the new carb. I'll let the new fuel pump and the 7 months of aggravation slide by but not the carb. Should be warranty if you ask me. I googled this problem and it's unbelievable how many people have this same problem.

Thanks for all your help each and every one of you; that's what forums are all about....... I appreciate it.* ray:


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## Basementgeek

Glad you got it fixed and back up and running. Good luck getting a refund, but could happen. Think of it as the "New and Improved" carb.

I can't say anything bad about B&S engines as I am afraid that my 1984 B&S will hear me. About 2-3 years ago it had a miss once in awhile, so I decided to put in new plugs. I pulled the old plugs and they still had some black paint on them, they were the original ones. Not bad, 20+ years on the same plugs.

BS


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## kentuckycop

I have a statesman with same motor your John Deere has it has sut for 3-4 years I have a guy cleaning carb it was stuck gummed up.. I need a float for it. I assume I'm probably gonna have problems from the factory carb. What is the replacement carb you got ( better or different design ) that you put in yours and us it still running good?


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## Clydesdale

kentuckycop said:


> I have a statesman with same motor your John Deere has it has sut for 3-4 years I have a guy cleaning carb it was stuck gummed up.. I need a float for it. I assume I'm probably gonna have problems from the factory carb. What is the replacement carb you got ( better or different design ) that you put in yours and us it still running good?


*It's still running good; used it all of last Summer & this Winter. The new carb is almost the same; all I can see different is the bowl is aluminum and shallow compare to the old carb.

The carb part number is 791230 but could be different according to the manufacturer date.*


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## kentuckycop

Thanks I'll look into replacing if the rebuke doesn't work. I talked to a repair place and they said the carbs on theses are really crappy. Something about the bowl getting stuff stuck in bottom because the way it's made. Idk. I'll be finding out soon as I get a new float for it.


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## 2and4StrokeTech

Yes there was a problem with the old design. The solenoid was too close to the exhaust manifold and it was getting "heat soaked". This would cause the fuel in the bowl to vaporize causing a vapor lock. The new design moves the solenoid further away from the heat, improved the heat shielding around the solenoid & redesigned the fuel bowl (aluminum disperses heat faster than steel)


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