# Identify capacitor?



## Wakou (Jan 31, 2008)

Hi folks any electrionics gurus amongst you?
I need some help identifying this capacitor, which some clumsy a**e has knocked off of my card :1angel:











marked on top of the can, in four lines thus:

509
S V P C
1 5 0 0
2.5


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## Mountainman1863 (Dec 23, 2007)

1500 microfarads, 2.5 volts
Usually the full replacement specs are marked clearly on the side of the can, which would include temperature ratings, and probably a designation Low ESR (a type designation low equivalentseries resistance)
All those designate the type of replacement capacitor you require. 
Removingthe leads, checking out the contact/board integrity and soldering in a replacement one will REQUIRE a competent board-level technician. Don't try it yourself. If you were a technician, you'd know about the capacitor already.


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## Wakou (Jan 31, 2008)

Thanks, I have done some research in the days since posting. It is indeed 1500uF @2.5v, but it is a V low ESR component, apparently the SVPC tells us this (!?! Why the B*******s they can't just put that on there? And the 509, is more or less uselessly, a date code. Thank-you Sanyo for making things so clear), and it is hard to find replacements in quantities less than 000's. The board's value does not justify a "competent" board level technician, so I will have to suffice. Can you say what sort of problems might result from replacing the broken component with a bog-standard 1500uF 6.3v cap? Or from leaving O/C?


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## Mountainman1863 (Dec 23, 2007)

Go to http://www.badcaps.net/pages.php?vid=22. They will explain the voltage ratings too.

They sell kits and individual one for board repair, and they can repair boards, I believe. Just about all large ufd board caps are low ESR. Markings oncaps are from the manufacturer. Likjely no boad companies will state details about their board problems in this detail; they want to sell replacement boards. This problem was so big that the board companies just could not 'make things right' for all the problems.


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## Wakou (Jan 31, 2008)

Thanks for the link! Unfortunately, not much help there, but a lot of interesting and useful info. The guy seems to specialise in "ordinary" electrolytics. The case in point is known (apparently) as "OS-CON", and is made by Sanyo. Since the problem came up, I see the damned things everywhere, but not to buy. RS do sell this type, but not this value.

Anyone know what would be wrong in fitting an ordinary electrolytic 1500uF 6.3v cap here?

Ps, what is UFD? (prob a sillly noob Q!)


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## speed_demon (Mar 13, 2008)

Did you get it figured out? I traded my PCI-e Geforce 6800 for an AGP ATI x850 XT PE today and when I tried it out it displayed in red text "you have not connected the power cable to your video card...". Two plugs and two computers later (all high-end PSU's) I closely inspected the card and found one of the caps gone. My card is similar to yours. My missing cap is near yours except on the opposite side of the two square thingies. It is the same 1500uf @ 2.5V cap. 

Does your card work without the cap? 

I did some research and it sounds like the main thing is to have the same capacitance (uf) and the same or higher (within reason) voltage. I'm going to try radio shack tomorrow for a cap with the same specs or will settle for a 1500uf @ 6.3v. If it doesn't work I'm going to shove this card up that punks ***. Please post up any advice or progress.


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## Wakou (Jan 31, 2008)

No progress, sorry. I have some old scrap boards, and Cap's of this value are common enough, but the particular type are less so. My soldering skills a pretty shabby so i have not been able to try it with another.


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## speed_demon (Mar 13, 2008)

I tried a 1500uf x 6.3v with no luck. If your card works I would replace the cap for stability. If it doesn't work try to RMA through ATI or toss it in the salvage bin. 

I'm happy to stumble upon this site though. The members are very intelligent and helpful.


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## Mountainman1863 (Dec 23, 2007)

The hard part is getting the old leads and old solder out completely without ruining the board, the damage to which you may not even see. Soldering the new one in is relatively easy. Good luck!


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