# negative camber problems



## redchevyz71 (Dec 17, 2010)

Hopefully somebody can give me some insight on this, here's the deal last week I replaced my inner tie rods and shortly after got a new set of tires. Immediately after I knew I needed an alignment. I have a 94 chevy 1500 ifs with a torsion key lift. When I went to take it in for alignment they said that my passenger side was okay but the driver side had serious negative camber and they couldn't adjust it anymore because the torsion keys were close to maxed out. My first question is how did this happen when before the alignment was fine? And is there anyway to fix this without getting either a full suspension lift or turning the keys down? which would be difficult because of the 305/70/16r tires I'm running. Also would turning the keys down, getting an alignment and then turning the keys back up help the problem enough so that I don't destroy the tires I just got? Thanks for anyone who can be of assistance


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

If the ride height is equal for both sides and camber is still out I would look for a bent suspension component.


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## redchevyz71 (Dec 17, 2010)

The passenger side upper control arm bump stop that is part of the frame(I'm not sure how else to describe it) cracked recently so I welded a plate in there which would have straighted the uca resulting in less neative camber so that might have done it


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## kjms1 (Jun 4, 2010)

doesnt the 94 chevy have the knockouts to adjust the camber & caster on the upper control arm

the torsion bars are for the ride height *not* for adjusting camber... granted at times you might have to change the ride height to get camber were you want it but that is a last resort


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

redchevyz71 said:


> The passenger side upper control arm bump stop that is part of the frame(I'm not sure how else to describe it) cracked recently so I welded a plate in there which would have straighted the uca resulting in less neative camber so that might have done it


Or the frame could have twisted when the crack occurred. Moving the upper A arm mount in.


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## redchevyz71 (Dec 17, 2010)

Do you think mimicking that on the driver side would solve my problem? Basically lower the driver side by taking less tension off the torsion keys


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

No that will just put the left side in neg camber, what did the alignment shop think the issue was when it was set up on the system?


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## redchevyz71 (Dec 17, 2010)

Why would that make the driver side have negative camber when it already has negative camber now? He said that since the torsion keys are cranked up all the way there is no room for adjustments left and that I need to either get a longer uca(which they don't make) or get an offset ball joint which I don't think they make either.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

It's been a few years since I ran a alignment machine, but whenever we ran into one that was off on one side only(I realize you are over stock on the height spec) it was time to look for something bent, we did a lot Ford twin I beam where you had to cold bend them to get the camber in spec, and I remember cold bending a few GM frames to tweak them back into spec. Do you have any good old alignment specialty shops in your area? Someone who specializes in trucks is what I'm thinking. Car shops rarely see a front suspension mounted to a frame today


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## Scottg1 (Jul 30, 2011)

I agree, go to a good truck shop or a place with an experienced alignment tech. You need to bend the parts to work and or crash bolts too. If that does not help it's time to buy some aftermarket lift parts to correct it


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## redchevyz71 (Dec 17, 2010)

Yea I am definately not going back to the same shop they charged me 70 bucks and they didn't do ****... thanks for the help. I think I'm going to try turning the keys down a little to get the camber back in spec then they should be able to do the adjustments needed, correct?


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

I would think, but it depends on how far off it is.


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## redchevyz71 (Dec 17, 2010)

I think it said -2.00 on the camber or something like that. What exactly does an alignment machine show you and what adjustments can you make to correct them?


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Depends on the equipment they are using, Some of the newer stuff in front end alignment for the unskilled, what's called a Go/No Go set up, uses a green bar on a LCD screen for good(within tolerances) or a red arrow to indicate which way to adjust.
Caster/Camber is measured in degrees off the center line of the wheel, toe in inches or mm.


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## Scottg1 (Jul 30, 2011)

Alignment machines show you the angle that your wheels are at, camber, caster, and toe angles. It's up to what vehicle you drive as to what can be adjusted, some cars you can adjust all angles of all wheels. Most vehicles have limitations on what you can do. That's why you have to replace parts to get alignments back in shape. Bending the suspension parts and crash bolts, smaller diameter, and shims are used to persuade the angles back in shape. 
Two degrees out is bad enough to wear your tires in a couple thousand miles but you may never feel it behind the wheel. 
It's really up to you how correct you want it now. Some good techs should be able to get it closer to spec, your still going to pay $60 to check it so you may just want go with what they need to correct it. Just take it to a truck shop, they should know what to do cheapest


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## redchevyz71 (Dec 17, 2010)

Thanks for the help everyone. Not very experienced with alignment machines, as you can tell so I will get back as soon as I figure it out


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