# 5901



## kennetho (Jan 16, 2010)

Hello. Few questions on some wire connections. Installing a 5901 on a 95' Chev Beretta. Thanks in advance for any help.

Main Harness H1
- H1/4 (White/Brown) - Parking Light Isolation Wire - Not sure where to hook this up.
- H1/10 (White/Blue) - (-) Remote Start/Turbo Timer Activation Input - Not sure if this is needed. And if so, where to connect it.

H2 Harness
- H2/11 threw H2/14 - Just checking to be sure. Not needed if not installing additional options. Like windows/trunk pop during different key locations(acc/start). 

H3 Remote Start Harness
- H3/2 - Unsure if needed.
- H3/3 - Unsure if needed.
- H3/6 - Unsure if needed.
- H3/7 - Unsure if needed.
- H3/8 - Unsure if needed.
- H3/9 - Unsure if needed.

If anyone happens to know the answers and locations of the connections if needed it would be greatly appriciated. 

Thanks, Ken :smile:


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## jaggerwild (May 21, 2007)

kennetho said:


> Hello. Few questions on some wire connections. Installing a 5901 on a 95' Chev Beretta. Thanks in advance for any help.
> 
> Main Harness H1
> - H1/4 (White/Brown) - Parking Light Isolation Wire - Not sure where to hook this up.
> ...


 I have the instructions for a 5902 witch is i assume is the same harness(post#4).
http://www.techsupportforum.com/automotive-center/car-audio/167234-alarms-remote-starter-manuals.html
Also the wire codes for a 95 Beretta are located here
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/460.html

H1/4White with a brown- Parking light isolation wire -Don't hook this up or cut it till were sure we don't need it.

H1/10 White with a blue turbo timer activation input- Will not be used.

H2 harness-H2/11-H2/14 Will NOT be used- DON'T cut any wires till install is complete and everything is working properly(then cut all unused wire to different lengths and cover the ends with electrical tape).

H3 Harness(remember this is off a 5902 I'm quoting you so if the COLOR does NOT MATCH what I'm posting than ask!).
H3/1 PINK Ignition one input/output- will go to ignition-(on a 95 GM pink also from the main key harness under dash).
H3/2 fused (30A) ignition 2/ Flex relay input 87 -There is no Ignition 2 NOT USED.
H3/4 VIOLET (+) starter out put (car side of the starter kill) This is used for the starter kill of the alarm and the remote start, so if you want starter kill you will CUT the starter wire coming off the ignition harness(leaving two connections to hook up). After cutting the factory starter wire(yellow I think) this will go to the wire that goes away from the ignition(to the start).
H3/5 GREEN (+) starter input (key side of the starter kill)- hence it will go to the wire that goes back to the ignition.
H3/6 RED (+) FUSED(30A) Ignition 1 input- not used.
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2/flex relay out put- there is no ignition 2 on your car.
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (+) flex relay in put 87A key side (if required) NOT USED.
H3/9 RED/BLACK (+) FUSED (30A)Accessory/starter INPUT NOT USED. 
H3/10 NC-NO CONNECTION


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## kennetho (Jan 16, 2010)

Thanks a TON! And H3/3 is connected to? Accessory wire on ignition harness?

Thanks! Ken.


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## kennetho (Jan 16, 2010)

Also if it isn't a bother. Two more questions. 

Hei distributor for tach wire. Where might that be located on a 3100? I hear direct tach if far superior to the virtual tach. White wire behind instrument cluster?

H2/18 Neutral Safety Input wire. It said something like. "If this is for an automatic, then connect it to a ground source". So do I just ground it? Or connect it to something?

Then H3/3 Accessory Wire. Used or not.

Thanks!


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## kennetho (Jan 16, 2010)

And H1/2 Red wire to 12v constant. Says to add a fuse inline between it and the sorce (12v constant to ignition). What size inline fuse should I use? 15 like the one already on it? And I assume you can pick it up at radio shack for a few bucks. 

Thanks.


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## jaggerwild (May 21, 2007)

kennetho said:


> Thanks a TON! And H3/3 is connected to? Accessory wire on ignition harness?
> 
> Thanks! Ken.


 Sorry orange to the ignition orange. I couldn't post last night not sure why? I tried to?:sigh:




> Also if it isn't a bother. Two more questions.
> Hei distributor for tach wire. Where might that be located on a 3100? I hear direct tach if far superior to the virtual tach. White wire behind instrument cluster?
> H2/18 Neutral Safety Input wire. It said something like. "If this is for an automatic, then connect it to a ground source". So do I just ground it? Or connect it to something?
> Then H3/3 Accessory Wire. Used or not.
> Thanks!


 Yeah try not to use tach if you dont have to if you do than its a white wire(should be in a three wire plug)that goes in a harness to the original distributor, Usually behind the distributor cap.
Neutral safety is for a clutch car so if it says to ground it than you can tape into the ground wire near the brain of the unit.


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## kennetho (Jan 16, 2010)

Thanks. 

And any suggestions on an inline fuse? 10 or 15 amp inlike I guess.


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## jaggerwild (May 21, 2007)

kennetho said:


> Thanks.
> 
> And any suggestions on an inline fuse? 10 or 15 amp inlike I guess.


 

H1/2 is the main power for the unit, I have never seen a viper with out a fuse on the main wire? If that is the wire you may have to go in amperage for the fuse like a 30-40 or higher. Again it should have its own why it doesn't?


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## kennetho (Jan 16, 2010)

Yea. I thought it was a little strange too to hear this. Two fuses in one line? EDIT: It does already have an inline fuse on that wire. But was just curious as to why the directions said to add another.

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/downloads.asp?srch=all&term=5901

Page 14. Note."Always use a fuse within 12inches of the point you obtain (+)12v. Do not use the 15A fuse in the harness for this purpous. This fuse protects the module."

Do you happen to know what type of auto-locks a Beretta uses? Wasn't gonna hook up lock/unlock till after its all installed. But if it is pretty simple, then I'll just do it then and there.


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## jaggerwild (May 21, 2007)

kennetho said:


> Yea. I thought it was a little strange too to hear this. Two fuses in one line? EDIT: It does already have an inline fuse on that wire. But was just curious as to why the directions said to add another.
> 
> http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/downloads.asp?srch=all&term=5901
> 
> ...


 Weird that they would put in a 15A then tell you not to use it? Yeah only one fuse needed here.Lock and unlock wires are in the link I provided you, they are positive trigger. So in the driver kick panel, find(use a test light to test here) the wires going into the drivers door then find the white and light blue. The unit is capable of either power or negative locks and I'm pretty sure it auto senses them. Your car is a three wire positive.
Also ignore my instructions as these are way more clearer than mine and just ask anything your not sure of, sorry as I didn't have these instructions. You door trigger is a negative you will not need the positive as they give you one for either.


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## kennetho (Jan 16, 2010)

Success! For the most part. Thanks a TON for the help. ray:

Alarm works great. But auto start isn't kicking in. I changed the menu to Automatic Transmission. When I hit the Remote Start button on the remote it plays the remote start sound and shows the timer. But the parking lights and starter don't engage.

So, I think I might need to also hook up one of the "polarity feed" wires. I think one is the 12v constant that engages the starter. Was thinking, it wouldn't be drawing 12v from the units main H1/2 wire to connect the starter. Would be way to much current for that thin wire.

H3 Remote Start Harness 
H3/6 Red (30A Fused) Ignition 1 Input
H3/9 Red/Black (30A Fused) Accessort/Starter Relay Input

Notes: 

I did not hook up Tach atm. Was gonna try Virtual Tach and see how it does. If I don't like it, then I'll tap into Tach wire.

When I hooked up the Remote Start Harness. I hooked up only H3/4 Violet and left H3/5 Green unhooked. I didn't want to hook up the starter kill relay thing untill I had it all installed and running right. Then I was going to cut the starter and install the H3/5 Green. Could this be causing it to not start? Wouldn't think so.

Edit: Also, when I Arm/Disarm the system, my parking lights do flash. So I just think its the starter wire not getting the 12v to tell the starter to engage. No parking light flashes or errors on the remote or remote start that I can tell. Got the 7flash on 1st try because I was in Manual Trans setting.

And again, Thanks. :smile:


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## jaggerwild (May 21, 2007)

kennetho said:


> Success! For the most part. Thanks a TON for the help. ray:
> 
> Alarm works great. But auto start isn't kicking in. I changed the menu to Automatic Transmission. When I hit the Remote Start button on the remote it plays the remote start sound and shows the timer. But the parking lights and starter don't engage.
> 
> ...


 OK so if you have a test light go through one wire at a time make sure they hooked up right and that the ones that need a source like ignition are getting proper contact too. Make sure the antenna is plugged in, do you have the red constant hooked to a heavy gauge wire? Make sure the neutral safety wire is grounded, from page 14 on the instructions read to be read carefully. One thing at a time here, when testing the wires power on the car make sure they see what they need such as Ignition, this wire needs to see a ground when it tries to start(the remote start checks each wire before starting) by remote but see 12v when the car is running(by the key), you will need to go through and methodically check each main wire for the remote start to work properly.


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## lcurle (Oct 5, 2008)

if you have a multi meter you can check your connections, it is the only way to tell if your starters and ignition wires are getting the proper voltage.


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## kennetho (Jan 16, 2010)

Update: Alarm and Auto-Start done! Went with my gut feeling and was right. :grin:

H3/6 Red Ignition Input and H3/9 Red/Black Accessory/Starter Input were connected to a 12v (+) constant and bingo. H3/6 supplies power to the ignition relay (to turn on fuel pump) and H3/9 supplies power to the starter relay.

I took a DMMeter to the Violet Starter Output wire and hit RS. Showed 0v so I knew it was missing a 12v source. 

Only thing left is to install the auto door locks. Page 13, you were right, they alternate current so no relay will be needed for that I think. So how do I go about hooking those up? Directly connect to the 12v lock wires? The Quick Reference Guide says they are 500mA outputs. So I'm thinking a relay might be needed on that end.

Thanks, Kenneth. :smile:


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## lcurle (Oct 5, 2008)

If you are using an express kit or intellikit you can connect to the purple wire on the OBD connection and it will control your door locks, otherwise you will have to Diode isolate the wire from the remote starter.


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## jaggerwild (May 21, 2007)

jaggerwild said:


> Weird that they would put in a 15A then tell you not to use it? Yeah only one fuse needed here.Lock and unlock wires are in the link I provided you, they are positive trigger. So in the driver kick panel, find(use a test light to test here) the wires going into the drivers door then find the white and light blue. The unit is capable of either power or negative locks and I'm pretty sure it auto senses them. Your car is a three wire positive.
> Also ignore my instructions as these are way more clearer than mine and just ask anything your not sure of, sorry as I didn't have these instructions. You door trigger is a negative you will not need the positive as they give you one for either.


 Lee he has a 95 Beretta, KennethO re read my posting witch is #10 on here I give you full details of the locks if than your still having issues post back. Basically you need to find the white and blue wires going through the drivers kick panel(small gauge) use a test light probe the wire while hitting the lock button(or unlock) this will show you when you have the correct one. They are positive so what I used to do, I had a test light that could feed power or ground(it was fused too). It has been a while for me doing an install on that car but I recall there are not that many same colored wires in the kick panel. Also your car has three wires at the button one is constant the other is lock and the other is unlock so a three wire system its called(or two witch it really is) so you will only need one wire from the starter to each lock/unlock wire


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## kennetho (Jan 16, 2010)

Thanks. But my question wasn't for the wire color/locations. Sorry if I didn't word my question right. I had already found and tested the wires for the doors. They were indeed Lt. Blue and White.

My questions was. They showed *12v* when pushed. The Quick Install Guide lised the alarm door-lock outputs as *500mA*,not 12v. How do I go about installing these. Not sure why it says 500mA and not 12v. Will I need a relay or something? Like the Aux 200mA outputs?

Thanks, Kenneth.


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## kennetho (Jan 16, 2010)

Couldn't Edit. Wanted to add.

Have all the wires ready to splice in. Just havn't connected them because I wasn't sure how 500mA related to 12v. Just trying to be sure so it doesn't mess anything up.

I'm thinking it just connects directly to the wires. Otherwise the manual would of stated a relay warning like the other wires.

Thanks.


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## Snoopdogie187 (Jun 27, 2002)

Hi,
12volts and 500mA are two different things. mA = miliampere (and 1000 mA = 1 Ampere), v = volt. Any electric system needs to have both a volt reading and an Ampere reading.

They don't give you the volts probably because almost all cars run everything off of 12 volts. The Ampere is probably given because it needs to have a certain value to be understood/not cause damage.

I don't remember how to wire this up correctly right now, I would have to think about to when I took physics). This is killing me now, I can't remember this, and I'm not even sure if we used it.

Sorry if this isn't clear, I was trying to keep it simple and not go into a lot of details.


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## kennetho (Jan 16, 2010)

Yea. Was about to connect it and was triple checking both manuals and remember seeing that so was like...think I should wait.

The Aux outputs warn about 200mA so I didn't wanna risk anything seeing as this said 500.


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## Snoopdogie187 (Jun 27, 2002)

If you need 500mA but the unit only puts out 200mA, you might need a relay.
Lee or jagger could tell you better about this than I can though.


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## jaggerwild (May 21, 2007)

kennetho said:


> Thanks. But my question wasn't for the wire color/locations. Sorry if I didn't word my question right. I had already found and tested the wires for the doors. They were indeed Lt. Blue and White.
> 
> My questions was. They showed *12v* when pushed. The Quick Install Guide lised the alarm door-lock outputs as *500mA*,not 12v. How do I go about installing these. Not sure why it says 500mA and not 12v. Will I need a relay or something? Like the Aux 200mA outputs?
> 
> Thanks, Kenneth.


 Yeah you should use a relay to enhance the positive trigger for the lock/unlock wires from the alarm. Here is one copied from the 12 volt.com









post 86 will be the alarm wire in post 30 will go to the lock/unlock wire.


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## kennetho (Jan 16, 2010)

85 ground? Alarm trigger set to neg or pos? And should a diode be needed? I don't think the manual asked for diode isolates except the aux outputs. Which are not hooked up in my case.

Thanks.


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## jaggerwild (May 21, 2007)

kennetho said:


> 85 ground? Alarm trigger set to neg or pos? And should a diode be needed? I don't think the manual asked for diode isolates except the aux outputs. Which are not hooked up in my case.
> 
> Thanks.


 yer using a relay no need for a diode(witch you don't need any way), not sure why your asking if 85 is ground? As that's what its showing you, you cant use the internal relay you understand right? You must go to radio shack or where ever and acquire two relays(single pole double throw) than follow the instructions. 86 is the in from the alarm and 30 is the out to the locks. 
The alarm trigger has nothing to do with the locks, but it will be a negative trigger from the door pin no need for a diode here either.


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## BigRedRam95 (Jan 24, 2010)

Don't want to hijack but I have the 7900 and I had best buy put it in for me. But they did not hook up the horn or the dome light. Will I need a relay for both of them and can someone tell me how to hook them up? Also I have a set of air horns with an electric valve to blow them and was wondering if i could hook that up to one of the channels that are not in use to blow the horns with the remote.


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## jaggerwild (May 21, 2007)

BigRedRam95 said:


> Don't want to hijack but I have the 7900 and I had best buy put it in for me. But they did not hook up the horn or the dome light. Will I need a relay for both of them and can someone tell me how to hook them up? Also I have a set of air horns with an electric valve to blow them and was wondering if i could hook that up to one of the channels that are not in use to blow the horns with the remote.


 I think the dome light supervision is built in(not certain on the 7900) the horn is best driven by a relay unless it is ground triggered and the output is a ground too, even then not sure it would be strong enough. The air horn can be hooked up to an extra channel to the remote, usually the extra channels are used for trunk release(witch you probably don't have) or window roll ups.
need more please start another thread Thank you!


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## lcurle (Oct 5, 2008)

you will need a relay for lock and one for the unlock, both need a 12v source. Connect the correct color from the RS to the relay, power it, ground it and send it on its way....I have a part number for a dual relay prewired, all you do is wire it to the rs and to the door locks, everything else is done for you pretty neat.


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## kennetho (Jan 16, 2010)

Everything is installed and working great. Thanks.


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