# Painting a case



## jrockpunk1 (Dec 11, 2007)

OK, I have a silver gaming case, and it's all a sort of plasic metal material (Plastic that feels like metal). I don't know the name of the case so I can't find the material. Everything else (screen, keyboard, mouse, mousemat) is black, and there are blue lights in the case so the silver really stands out. I was wondering, what should I use to paint this case black? Note that I want it to look as if the original colour was black.

--jrockpunk1--


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## manic (Aug 2, 2005)

Krylon, they make all types of paint for all types of surfaces.


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## jrockpunk1 (Dec 11, 2007)

will they have it in somewhere like B&Q?


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## Warfare (Jun 21, 2008)

Is that a question?? I really dont understand that...


But what I infer from it is where can you get it?

Walmart, Homedepot, and Lowes should have it. Keep in mind to but Krylon PLASTICS/Fusion because it will look better on plastic.


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## jrockpunk1 (Dec 11, 2007)

Well, B&Q is in the UK so you wouldn't know. And my mom's got some interior wood and metal water based and quick drying paint from COLOURS. It's low odour black satin. She's also going to dig up the primer we used to undercoat my bike before I painted it.

Would those be good or do you recommend different?


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## forcifer (Nov 20, 2005)

do NOT use latex paint because it is much less durable and not as good as enamel. try to find some kind of enamel, im not sure if it is in the UK but rustoleum is very good. painting cases is very easy (i have a thread somewhere about when i painted mine) ill find it if you want


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## Chainer (Dec 10, 2008)

Krylon (If i remember right, just painted a spud launcher) makes a nice style paint that is especially made for plastic. And latex is a no no, it will not stick, and is just not made for these kind of applications.

No paint is free of fumes. Odor free simply means that there is no odor, the fumes will still waft throughout whatever room you paint in, and any room that air travels too and from. The paint needs to eject the medium in which the pigment is vesseled in, that's the drying process.

Also, you need to surface prep whatever you paint (Do not let anyone else tell you otherwise, they are either lazy or stupid.). Sanding usually with a red prep pad is what I do when I do not need to smooth metal. If your going for an "original" paint job look, the work is all in the prep.

Spray lightly, many coats. Good paint doesn't happen over night, also get the good green 3M masking take and mask off anything you don't want painted. Good even strokes man. 

Good luck, and post pics!


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## forcifer (Nov 20, 2005)

http://airbrushtricks.com/start/airbrush-videos/22/382-the-ultimate-case-painting-guide.html is a good reference. helps if you ab, but even if you dont its still going to work


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## Chainer (Dec 10, 2008)

Something that should be said after watching those videos.

DO NOT USE A PRIMER THAT IS NOT FROM THE SAME COMPANY/SERIES AS THE BASE/TOP COATS YOU ARE USING. This guy is using dupricolor and then some other brand of paint on top of that primer (and that primer... meeehhhhh... not too hot.). The different brands of paints use different chemicals/pigments that can react adversely. I know this from trying it myself.

I use all 'HOUSE OF KOLOR' for my paint. From primer to clear coat. No chance of chemical interaction that would ruin my paint job.


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## forcifer (Nov 20, 2005)

you also have a spray gun if you are use HOK. as far as i know, they do not make spray paint and are also very expensive  even then, i would prefer custom shops paints because you dont have to mix them.

you are 100% correct though on DO NOT MIX PRIMER AND OTHER PAINT BRANDS. it will screw up and be a pain in the *bleep*. also, make sure you leave enough time for everything to dry because your paint will, literally, bubble (happened before and it was very hard to get off  )


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## Chainer (Dec 10, 2008)

I was just using my process as an example 

And one last thing i thought of. If you're doing multiple coats of paint, make sure to check what the time window you have to apply coats is. There is a limited time window to do it right, that is because of the evaporation of the vehicle (or urethane, enamel, whatever) that hold the pigment (the color) needs a certain rate of dry (evaporation) to smooth itself, and look right.

Good luck, and i found this nice little link that is a big help if you go spray can route.

http://www.mnpctech.com/case-mod-paint-computer-pc-case-mod-how-to1.html


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