# Acer 22 inch AL2223W: Monitor goes dark/black after a second



## abel408

The display on my monitor goes dark (backlights turn off) after a second. I have tried replacing the power inverter board with no success. My next step it to replace the back lights, but I wanted to make sure that was a reasonable assumption. The display is perfect for about a second and then it just turns very dark. I thought for sure it had something to do with the inverter board, but apparently it does not.


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## abel408

I should also say that I know this is a monitor problem because I bought a 24 inch lcd and it works great.


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## jdol2949

abel408 - did you ever solve this? One of our users just notified me that he has the same issue with this exact monitor. Worked for months before, not anymore. It works just great for a second or two, showing full desktop, etc - but then goes black. Did you have any luck???


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## abel408

I am actually still working on it. I am pretty sure I was sent two bad inverter boards. Hard to believe, but now I have three inverter boards and none of them work, but both back lights are perfectly fine. The inverter board shuts the back lights off automatically when it senses that the power going to them are not equal. My original inverter board failed to bring power to the top back lights. I was wrong when I said that the display comes on perfectly for 1-2 seconds. If you look very closely you can see that the bottom is lit up more then the top. I took apart my monitor and took the top back light out to see what was actually going on. My original inverter didn't even light up the top one, the first one I was sent only lit up the top one half way (like it wasn't getting enough power) then shut off in the same manner. I then emailed the ebayer I bought it from and they sent me another one, but the replacement didn't even power on. Be careful with buying the inverter boards on ebay. 

I am almost positive I have just had bad luck and now I'm stuck with 3 bad inverter boards. 

To make sure it is the inverter board and not the back light you can take the monitor apart and plug the back light that is not lit up into the other back light port and see if it lights up. If it does, then it is your inverter. If it doesn't then it is your back light. These monitors do have 3 year warrenties on them and I don't believe they are 3 years old yet, but if you bought them from bestbuy (like I did) you're out of luck.


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## kbsvr.com

I have the same problem... exactly. It lights up for about 2 sec's and then lights out. It's still running but just no display light. Switch it off then on it's lit about 2 sec's.

I have it apart today on my bench and wonder if it could be the lamps but I will scope the power inverter and see if it's running on both outputs.

The inverter switchers look like they run hot as the board is discoloured from heat. It's very possible one of them are fried.

>My next step it to replace the back lights, but I wanted to make sure that
>was a reasonable assumption.

Can they be replaced at all? The construction design somewhat looks engineered not to be replaceable.


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## kbsvr.com

Yep they can be replaced. Just a major disassembly process to do it. They are fastened with two small screws as seen vaguely in this picture.










This is how my lights look for the moment they come on. It's opposite when I swap the connections from top to bottom indicating the lamps are good.










I scoped the power inverter outputs
Top lamp (barely lights)

















Bottom lamp (Fully lights)

















Looks like the output transformer may be bad or a problem with ballast caps.

The driver input signals look ok.

Post more when I get back to it.


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## abel408

Wow nice work. Great pictures. This thread will surely help others. I took the whole thing apart as well, and came to the conclusion that it cannot be the lights. I have received 3 inverter boards off ebay so I now have a total of 4. Every inverter board does the same thing except one does not even power on. If it is not the inverter board I have no clue what else it could be. Is it possible that all these ebay sellers are getting their inverter boards from the same place and all of them are bad?

I actually found out that my monitor is under warranty even though I bought it from bestbuy. So I think I'm going to give up and just send it back. Hopefully they don't notice that I took the whole thing apart multiple times.

Let me know what you come up with, but I don't advise getting an inverter board... or at least not from ebay. I could send you one if you wanted. I have 4 .


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## abel408

I find it really odd how all of the sudden people are having the exact same problem with this monitor. A few months ago I googled this problem with the same exact monitor and found nothing.


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## kbsvr.com

Looks like a bad output transformer.


Output open to CN1 and CN2











Output good to CN3 and CN4


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## abel408

So your telling me I received 3 bad inverters?

I need to get a multimeter like that.


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## kbsvr.com

Just about any hardware or electronics store sells a meter for $15 to $30 USD that will give you some basic testing that's good enough to get that verification.

As illustrated in the pictures, test the output pins for resistance value around 1Kohm (1000 ohms) and that's about what it should be. If the output is much less or more than that on either output then it's a faulty transformer.

Chances are though, the same fault will be found on all the boards you have.


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## kbsvr.com

Latest info from Acer...



> Thank you for contacting Acer America. I’ll be happy to assist you with this issue.
> 
> I am glad to inform you that as per our record your product is in warranty.
> 
> Having reviewed your email, I understand that your monitor is having some issues.
> 
> Kirk, please be advised that the transformer is not an user replaceable part. What we can do is that we can troubleshoot for this issue and if found that it is a hardware failure we can take it for service for that I would recommend you to reply with the answers for the following questions so that we would be in a better position to assist you.


And after I had support read this thread here on techsupportforum.com...




> Thank you for contacting Acer America. I’ll be happy to assist you with this issue.
> 
> I am glad to inform you that as per our record your product is in warranty.
> 
> Having reviewed your email, I understand that your monitor is having some issues.
> 
> I can understand your concern but there is no option that we can provide a transformer. In order to assist you further and ensure you get the complete and full support for the product that you own we would like to have your product registered with our database, you can go through the following link: https://secure3.tx.acer.com/FindSystem/FindSystem.aspx?title=Register Your System for the same.


It's so scripted!:sigh:

I'd be surprised if they would even accept it for warranty service since it has been taken apart so far.

They are in no position to ship parts because the device is still a supported warranty item. They want me to ship it to them and have it repaired under warranty. However since I have gone this far with it I'd rather just fix it myself and save the wait, packing and shipping costs. Besides, I don't want to go through all the complications and then have them tell me after they received it that they cannot fix it under warranty because it was taken apart already then stick me with a repair bill along with the return shipping costs. I can buy a new monitor for that matter.

Otherwise I have found a couple sources on the net that will sell the transformer but it's not a new part. It's a recovered part from another monitor and they want top dollar for it.


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## abel408

HAHA wow. Not much help huh? I have already paid for 3 different inverter boards off ebay and none of them worked so I'm just going to give up and send it in for replacement. I'm pretty sure they will take it back because I was very careful with mine and it doesn't look like it was opened up (I did lose a screw though).

Figured shipping will be $30... which is cheaper then the inverter board itself. Wish I found out it was still under warranty before tinkering with it... but that's just the way I am, have to fix things myself.

If you want I can send you the inverter board I received that failed to turn on. Maybe the transformer on that is fine. If you tell me how I can find that out for you I can ship it to you and will only charge for a shipping fee.


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## johanna0507

I have an Acer 24 inch of the same vintage as you. 
There appears to be a problem with the backlight (same as you). 

Half of the monitor (left side) is significantly darker than the right side. 
At the same time as I discovered this problem, I also noticed a very faint buzzing noise coming from the monitor. 

I am fairly geeky and will have a go at fixing the problem myself rather than just buying a new monitor. But opening up monitors is beyond my experience so far. 

I live in London, UK (funny that you live in London, Canada, lol!) 
I just emailed Acer UK tech support, let's see what they say, although frankly I'd be very surprised if Acer will help me out with a new backlight but I will contact them to find out. 

I have one 22 inch Acer which has lasted 4 years. But my 24 inch Acer which I bought at the same time died after 2 years and I had no patience to support or fix so I bought another one. That's the one I'm having trouble with now but this time I won't just take the extra cost. 

This monitor also has a problem recognising that it is recieving a signal if I switch it off while the PC is working. I have to fiddle with the signal input a bit first, before it recognises the signal.


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## johanna0507

Update on the above: 
=============================

Hello, Thank you for contacting Acer.

Regarding your enquiry,

Your machine will now need to be brought into our repair centre for further evaluation and possible repair. I have logged a case for your repair under the Case ID Number: xxxxxxxxx

In accordance with the Terms and Conditions of Acer’s Warranty you are advised to sufficiently package your unit/component for transit. This means that the unit has to have enough packaging (at least 5cm of bubble wrap around the whole unit/component either side) and be in a suitable box (strong box not flimsy) to sustain the trip in a couriers van. If we receive your unit with damage caused by insufficient packaging the repairs will be chargeable.
To return your faulty Acer product, please follow these short steps:

You will need to call our couriers, DHL, to arrange collection of your item on 0870 240 0555.
Select option 1 for booking a collection, and then option 1 to book it on our account.

You will be required to answer some short questions. Please have access to the following information before calling:

1) Contract Number: xxxxxxxx
2) Your Name:
3) When asked if you are “Sending or Receiving” Advise you are: Returning to Infoteam
4) If they ask if its an authorised return: Yes
5) If they ask if you have a Parcel Label: No
6) Your Telephone Number:
7) Your collection Post Code and Building Number:
8) The service type is: Standard / One Parcel
9) Package Contents details: Acer Monitor, Model xxxx
10) Return Delivery Address: Acer Warranty Account, Infoteam, Mitac House, Nedge Hill, Telford, Shropshire, TF3 3AH

When sending the monitor:

Please do not include any accessories (leads, mains adaptors, PC etc). Also if possible remove the stand/base from your monitor.
Please ensure it is safely and securely packed to survive a trip in a couriers van. For advice on how to package the machine, please go to:
http://www.dhl.co.uk/publish/gb/en/information/shipping/pack/tips.high.html
Also, do not send the original box back with the monitor as all incoming boxes are recycled, so if you wish to keep your original box please do not send it in with the monitor.

On the box you send it in, please make sure the following details are written clearly:

Our Address Details: Acer Warranty Account, Infoteam, Mitac House, Nedge Hill, Telford, Shropshire, TF3 3AH
Your Case ID Number (see above).
Consignment Number that DHL will provide you.

Please can you write your name, home address and Case ID on a piece of paper to identify your machine when we receive it.


Please ensure you send your product in, within a reasonable timeframe ie: 1 month

Please keep the above details safe for future reference.

Please Note: By sending your unit in for repair you agree to abide by the terms and conditions of the limited warranty included with your Acer product.

Regards
Jonathan
Acer Technical Support Team


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## kbsvr.com

Hmm I saw somewhat the same generic respons form sent to me as well.


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## kbsvr.com

*CHECK THIS OUT!*

I found a suitable replacement part. There may afterall be many other like numbered parts that would fix this. I just got lucky as another local guy that also repairs monitors just happened to have a similar part in his parts stock. Even he had no idea he had it!

See in the pic's the part numbering is slightly different and since the date code is from 2005, these have been around for a while really.










Replacement part soldered in...









Got it all together and...

Voila!!* ITS ALIVE!!* ray:










Beauty eh!









I paid all of $10 Canadian and it's fixed.


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## abel408

Nice Job! I just spent $15 for shipping and its being shipped now. Should receive it by July 7th. Didn't say anything about it missing a screw or being opened or anything. I have no idea where I would find a replacement transformer.


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## zamanmshah

Just in case anyone wants to try out the solution of replacing the CCFL transformer, it can be obtained at

http://www.lcdparts.net/TransformerDetail1.aspx?PartNumber=8TC00332

Cost is about US$25.00. Little steep but worth it for a freely acquired monitor.


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## Xypher Orion

Hey! Thanks for the thread. A coworker's just went out this morning and after tearing it apart it appeared to have the same issue with the transformer. Although I'd watch out for those 220uF 25v caps in the bottom left hand of that picture, they were bulged badly. Its being sent in for warranty replacement, but I thought I'd let y'all know about the bad caps.


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## cwho

Thanks for this great thread!. I have two of these both dead as described above. I had taken one apart somewhat but not got to the inverter board. 

Do you think replacing the transformer cures the overheating problem? IE does the new transformer seem to run cooler or is there a design flaw (or the bad caps causing the transformer to heat) ? 

It sounds like a good and easy fix and I am all about keeping things working rather than replacing them or shipping them across the world for a simple part, however, if the design is bad and it is just going to overheat again there does not seem much point.

Thanks
Charles


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## kbsvr.com

The inverter transformer doesn't seem to run very hot. I think it's just the windings are too tight and have no room for expansion or contraction from heating and cooling and they are coated with an epoxy it seems so it's very rigid. I believe because of these tight windings and the tight wire connections to the terminals that may cause the wire to break in the transformer.

Any one else have a theory?


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## johanna0507

Well -- my 24 inch version of this monitor was broken.
It had several of the symptoms that have been described here. 
I sent it off to Acer on warranty (slight white lie regarding purchase date was needed... ). Anyway, now it's back and working fine. This cost me nothing apart from the packaging of the monitor for shipping back to Acer, and some time in organising it.


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## cwho

Regarding the transformer and running hot. We had to of these bought at the same time. One, on my desk, was definitely running hot. An area on the screen became discolored and it was hot to the touch. The other did not do this, one day it just up an died. Of course what we need is someone who got theirs repaired by Acer to reopen this and find out if it is a redesigned board or just new parts... Any takers...


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## MilosObilic1402

Xypher Orion said:


> Hey! Thanks for the thread. A coworker's just went out this morning and after tearing it apart it appeared to have the same issue with the transformer. Although I'd watch out for those 220uF 25v caps in the bottom left hand of that picture, they were bulged badly. Its being sent in for warranty replacement, but I thought I'd let y'all know about the bad caps.



I have noticed those first as i have the same problem with this monitor i have already took them out and found replacements on ebay but i got on this forum to see if anywone else had the same problem and weather those were the cause of the problem and i see that you noticed those capacitors too. one is 220uf 25v and the other 470uf 10v. i was wondering if i could use capacitors with higher voltage rating or lover as i can probably dig em out of old ps2 or something and radioshack has them but not same as what i need.
those two capacitors are the only once that i noticed being buldged and i didnt do any further test as i thought it was that or the back lights.


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## pupuke

kbsvr.com said:


> *CHECK THIS OUT!*
> 
> I found a suitable replacement part. There may afterall be many other like numbered parts that would fix this. I just got lucky as another local guy that also repairs monitors just happened to have a similar part in his parts stock. Even he had no idea he had it!
> 
> See in the pic's the part numbering is slightly different and since the date code is from 2005, these have been around for a while really.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replacement part soldered in...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it all together and...
> 
> Voila!!* ITS ALIVE!!* ray:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beauty eh!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I paid all of $10 Canadian and it's fixed.


KBSVR,

Do you still have the pictures of the part you replaced? I need to do the same and was hoping to find the part number for the one you used. Thank you.


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## kriskizlyk

Hey guys I got multimeter and I ohmed out the terminals S1 and S2 = 1K and S3 and S4 = 1K...Do I have to desolder it from the circuit to test this? The part number "8TC00332" which was given, is on the side of it if that helps. Could you give me some more trouble shooting tips with what people did to get it to work...?

I am getting the same results like you guys...Acer symbol, on for about a seconds and then the back light just shuts off but I can still see text.


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## SpAwNtoHell

abel408 said:


> HAHA wow. Not much help huh? I have already paid for 3 different inverter boards off ebay and none of them worked so I'm just going to give up and send it in for replacement. I'm pretty sure they will take it back because I was very careful with mine and it doesn't look like it was opened up (I did lose a screw though).
> 
> Figured shipping will be $30... which is cheaper then the inverter board itself. Wish I found out it was still under warranty before tinkering with it... but that's just the way I am, have to fix things myself.
> 
> If you want I can send you the inverter board I received that failed to turn on. Maybe the transformer on that is fine. If you tell me how I can find that out for you I can ship it to you and will only charge for a shipping fee.





johanna0507 said:


> I have an Acer 24 inch of the same vintage as you.
> There appears to be a problem with the backlight (same as you).
> 
> Half of the monitor (left side) is significantly darker than the right side.
> At the same time as I discovered this problem, I also noticed a very faint buzzing noise coming from the monitor.
> 
> I am fairly geeky and will have a go at fixing the problem myself rather than just buying a new monitor. But opening up monitors is beyond my experience so far.
> 
> I live in London, UK (funny that you live in London, Canada, lol!)
> I just emailed Acer UK tech support, let's see what they say, although frankly I'd be very surprised if Acer will help me out with a new backlight but I will contact them to find out.
> 
> I have one 22 inch Acer which has lasted 4 years. But my 24 inch Acer which I bought at the same time died after 2 years and I had no patience to support or fix so I bought another one. That's the one I'm having trouble with now but this time I won't just take the extra cost.
> 
> This monitor also has a problem recognising that it is recieving a signal if I switch it off while the PC is working. I have to fiddle with the signal input a bit first, before it recognises the signal.





Xypher Orion said:


> Hey! Thanks for the thread. A coworker's just went out this morning and after tearing it apart it appeared to have the same issue with the transformer. Although I'd watch out for those 220uF 25v caps in the bottom left hand of that picture, they were bulged badly. Its being sent in for warranty replacement, but I thought I'd let y'all know about the bad caps.


Hello, and sorry for the quotes but i think is nacessary.

I am a owner of 6 AL2216W of different ages..... 5 of them bought them form e-bay and i repaired all of them, same problem initially on all of them the only difference was that some of them were starting after a while others no.

FIXING the problem:

Replace the capacitors (3x 220μF 25V and 2x1000μF 25V) on the power board (the board with the power plug)

I usually use this types of capacitor for all the repairs I do:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=44037


Note: Not in all cases the capacitor are *bulged badly.* but still are the problem.

PS: 
1.It seems that the original caps are having a maximum temperature of 105 degrees Celsius the Vellman kit are 85 degrees .... my monitors are working fine for the last 4-6 months with those.

2. Feel free to ask any questions if you have doubts.


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## deebeg

kbsvr.com said:


> *CHECK THIS OUT!*
> 
> I found a suitable replacement part. There may afterall be many other like numbered parts that would fix this. I just got lucky as another local guy that also repairs monitors just happened to have a similar part in his parts stock. Even he had no idea he had it!
> 
> See in the pic's the part numbering is slightly different and since the date code is from 2005, these have been around for a while really.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replacement part soldered in...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it all together and...
> 
> Voila!!* ITS ALIVE!!* ray:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beauty eh!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I paid all of $10 Canadian and it's fixed.



kbsvr.com did you get any pictures as pupuke requested of your replacement part? Would it be possible to post them if any. Please and thank you.


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## kbsvr.com

Yes I see that they are missing now. I'll fix that asap. Thanks for the note.


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## kbsvr.com

Long delay but hey.. I got the images all replaced. My host server had a crash some time ago and the images got lost so I had to find time to dig them up and repost them.


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## SpAwNtoHell

WOW your old one looks really bad (transformer) I am guessing the part ***0245 is the old one....

I just went through what i have on one of mine (new buy broken) I replaced the capacitors and it is kind of weird but my part number of the transformer is 
**** 0332. i do not know the rest of them i fixed because working only by replacing capacitors worked for me but none of mine look like your *0245


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## pomocnik

Hello

I'm new to forums so bare with me. I have the exact same monitor, but with a slightly different problem. Mine comes on with a white screen initially, then a series of thin colored vertical lines move in, right to left and then the screen goes off. It does this regardless if connected to a pc or not.
I'm wondering if bad caps could be the problem like poster 'spawntohell' mentioned? Anyone else had this problem?


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## SpAwNtoHell

When is connected to computer..... and you turn it on (assuming monitor is on already -turning computer on) remains in working mode (green light)or stand by (amber light) ? displays the Acer logo? 



> then a series of thin colored vertical lines move in, right to left and then the screen goes off


I do not follow.... vertical or horizontal?for how long you see the lines? (seconds).


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## pomocnik

Hello SpAwNtoHell

Sorry about taking so long to check in. Been battling bad bronchitis. As for your questions:

The lines are vertical and alternating in colour and appear from right to left like soldiers marching from one side to the other. Buttttt! This happens only after the screen came on white in colour for a second or two. Then within a few seconds the display shuts off to amber(?). I have to once again press the 'on switch' (not power sw) to get it to do that again.
I suspect the coloured lines represent the Acer logo splash screen that's trying to appear, but the display's video output board has a problem or is not getting proper voltages from the invertor board.
I took the display apart (noting all connections) all capacitors appear ok, no bulging. Just a little browning of the board near the transformer shown in the other posts.
I put it back together making sure that bad connections were not the culprit, but it did the same as before.
Any ideas? Maybe the cap near the transformer dried out? tel me your thoughts...much appreciated!


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## SpAwNtoHell

If you have signal from computer ( computer is on ) the LED for power on the monitor turns to amber after a couple of secs from green, is acting like not receiving any digital or analog VGA signal from your video card, Usually when is the inverter or power supply problem of the monitor does not go in stand-by amber, the monitor keeps acting like is in working state but just the image not display. 

I think either you should make sure is not a signal receiving problem.

Note: I just got a new old one to fix around now and this is how it does:

test1: not connected to video card on computer:

1 i get a splash of back light, goes dark it not shows the acer logo and goes in stand by amber after 2-3 sec

test2: connected to computer comes out from stand-by in working mode Led turns to green, but no image, if i turn the monitor of and back on it flashes again something like you described like it would want to display something and goes dark (power status LED keeps staying green) I will open it later today to see what is happening inside....


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## pomocnik

Hello SpAwNtoHell

Thanks for your observations. I'm really curious to hear about what you find with the second monitor you open up.
I neglected to mention that, when I wrote my last post I told you what I remember when I last tested it. I have the mini-video board and invertor out of the display right now so I can't be one hundred percent sure about it jumping to amber after the display shut off....the status lite may have stayed green for all I know.
All I can say is it did the same wheather I had it connected or not. And if the display worked right it should have at least displayed the ACER logo.....as must displays do....or NO SIGNAL INPUT notice.
Tell me if your boards also show no visible bad capacitors on them. Thx.


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## sardiskan

Gosh this thread is helpful. I hope someone is still subscribed to it. Ok so I had a power problem with my AL2223 monitor where I wasn't getting power at all...well I ordered another power board or inverter board as I've learned it's called on this thread. I replaced the board, plugged it in and viola, the monitor came on, which was FAR better than it had been doing, which was nothing. But then 2 seconds after it came on, the screen went black. I was like ***? So I tried different connections and different machines and got the same problem, off after 2 seconds. Then I found this thread.

So much good information. So I tested the Ohm resistance of the inveter transformer as described above and sure enough, one side of the transformer was fine, the other side was broken. So I tested the transformer from my other "broken" inverter board just to see if the inverter transformer was maybe still good. It tested good, got a Ohm resistance of about 40.00 on both sides as the test above describes it should.

So I get to work straight away and removed the good inverter transformer from the bad inverter board and replaced the bad inverter transformer on the good inverter board with the good inverter transformer from the bad inverter board. I tested the Ohm resistance once on the board and it still showed 40.00 so all was still well.

I plugged things in and hooked things up and now the monitor will not come on for 2 seconds then go off....now it blinks very quickly twice....then goes off. But I verified by keeping the panel disassembled that both lamps blink at the same time and with equal intensity so the inverter transformer is pushing equal power to both lamps. At this point I have no idea what to try next.

Any ideas?


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## danger355

kbsvr.com said:


> Looks like a bad output transformer.
> 
> 
> Output open to CN1 and CN2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Output good to CN3 and CN4





kbsvr.com said:


> *CHECK THIS OUT!*
> 
> I found a suitable replacement part. There may afterall be many other like numbered parts that would fix this. I just got lucky as another local guy that also repairs monitors just happened to have a similar part in his parts stock. Even he had no idea he had it!
> 
> See in the pic's the part numbering is slightly different and since the date code is from 2005, these have been around for a while really.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replacement part soldered in...
> 
> 
> Got it all together and...
> 
> Voila!!* ITS ALIVE!!* ray:
> 
> 
> 
> Beauty eh!
> 
> 
> I paid all of $10 Canadian and it's fixed.





zamanmshah said:


> Just in case anyone wants to try out the solution of replacing the CCFL transformer, it can be obtained at
> 
> http://www.lcdparts.net/TransformerDetail1.aspx?PartNumber=8TC00332
> 
> Cost is about US$25.00. Little steep but worth it for a freely acquired monitor.





sardiskan said:


> Gosh this thread is helpful. I hope someone is still subscribed to it. Ok so I had a power problem with my AL2223 monitor where I wasn't getting power at all...well I ordered another power board or inverter board as I've learned it's called on this thread. I replaced the board, plugged it in and viola, the monitor came on, which was FAR better than it had been doing, which was nothing. But then 2 seconds after it came on, the screen went black. I was like ***? So I tried different connections and different machines and got the same problem, off after 2 seconds. Then I found this thread.
> 
> So much good information. So I tested the Ohm resistance of the inveter transformer as described above and sure enough, one side of the transformer was fine, the other side was broken. So I tested the transformer from my other "broken" inverter board just to see if the inverter transformer was maybe still good. It tested good, got a Ohm resistance of about 40.00 on both sides as the test above describes it should.
> 
> So I get to work straight away and removed the good inverter transformer from the bad inverter board and replaced the bad inverter transformer on the good inverter board with the good inverter transformer from the bad inverter board. I tested the Ohm resistance once on the board and it still showed 40.00 so all was still well.
> 
> I plugged things in and hooked things up and now the monitor will not come on for 2 seconds then go off....now it blinks very quickly twice....then goes off. But I verified by keeping the panel disassembled that both lamps blink at the same time and with equal intensity so the inverter transformer is pushing equal power to both lamps. At this point I have no idea what to try next.
> 
> Any ideas?


sarkiskan, i've got the exact same problem (comes on/displays for a second or two, then goes off) on a monitor that was given to me. 

i _think_ the 40Ω was actually the bad side of the transformer (first pic; can someone tell me if i'm right?).

if you go to the link that zamanmshah posted for buying a replacement, the detail page for it says "The secondary resistance is about 1.0 K between S1 and S2 (or S3 and S4)."

the second pic shows just over 1k.

i'm going to test this myself when i get home, and if i get anything other than ~1k i'll order a replacement.

hope it'll work and i'll let you know.

edit:

also, it looks like there may be two suitable replacements on this site. the one zamanmshah posted, and this one: http://www.lcdparts.net/TransformerDetail3D.aspx?ProductID=3282


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## deebeg

I finally got around to playing with this. By the time that I had found this thread I had already taken apart and then reassemble the lcd and couldn't remember anything that I had found on the dis-assembly. I would like to thank all but mostly kbsvr.com and zamanmshah. My transformer was open on one side and 1K on the other. After shipping and purchase it did cost me $40.00 Cdn. but I was stubborn and wanted to fix it.  I had checked with local sources and they all said it wasn't the transformer. WRONG! It was!! Thanks again to all !! 

deebeg


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## irons

Thank you guys for such a great post. I thought it was the cheap caps at first. Most of them were domed a little. Same problem after I replaced them all. Google turned this up. Bought the transformer from lcdparts.com. Works great the first time I fired it up. Should have thought to check it myself.


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## a1rondog

Ok. So my Acer AL2223W was demonstrating the same problem of going black after a couple of seconds and I decided to search for a solution online and I found this thread. 

I cannot say thank you enough to everyone here that has submitted their own experiences in regards to this problem. I came to the same conclusion as most of them and ordered and replaced the inverter (transformer) and my monitor is in excellent working order now. The pics that were included in this thread were a definite bonus, mainly because i had never before taken an LCD monitor apart and was nervous as to the difficulty that it might pose. 

But it all worked out and I'm grateful to all of you who posted your own solutions.

Cheers


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## Takenover83

I registered to say thanks. My 3-year old Acer AL2223W quit working one month outside warranty. And of-course Acer could care less. I have very minimal soldering skills, but I was able to pull it off. It does not look as nice as the pics here, but it works 

To those reading who are in the same boat. Order the part. Spend the $25. It beats paying for a new monitor.


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## kbsvr.com

*Update!* :wave:

Well my monitor is still working well. I use it at my electronic repair shop at my secretary's desk and it runs about 7 or more hours a day since the fix.

I'm impressed with all the reads and everyone's responses and tips.

At the beginning of this thread I had opened up the monitor all the way down to the lamps which for this repair was much more than necessary however it did make for a more interesting adventure to finding the problem.

The typical expectation to this sort of issue usually ends up being a bad lamp or connection to a lamp (broken or burnt off wire) and more often than an inverter transformer it is capacitors in the primary power supply or switching transistors and capacitors usually in the output driver circuit feeding the transformers.

*Meter tip*
If you are not used to using a multimeter and you are getting any exact reading like 40.00 you might be under range and your meter is showing either open circuit or the resistance is higher than the range you're set to. Switch to Auto range or increase it to a higher range if possible.

*Running hot*
If your monitor is running really hot then there's probably something very wrong with it. Checking the power supply may reveal bad cap's causing it to consume more current than normal or some other faulty components elsewhere. There are many possibilities but running so hot it burns to the touch on the outside of the case or screen and discolors the screen is major concern of a fault happening and could even be a fire hazard. Look into it seriously.

*Buying replacement parts*
Places like Digikey, Newark, Mouser Electronics and many more places are typically good places to get most of the parts you need. Searching Google often works best for the special parts like those transformers. Check your area for a local electronic parts store and they can also help you locate those hard to find parts as well. Look up something like this in a search. Your city/Town and electronic parts store

example: London Ontario electronic parts store

*Capacitors*
When choosing capacitors, the temperature rating doesn't mean much. It's usually reference point of the rating to the life of the capacitor rated in hours of operation at that temperature. Although one may rate 85°C and another is 105°C, you should use the higher rated temperature anyway simply because they will handle more than 85°C better and will last longer. Check the specs when you do order your cap's. Longer hours at higher temperatures generally will last longer and the price of them is often negligible between them.

When replacing cap's you should always use the same values and never lower then was originally in place unless you really know what your doing. Higher voltage ratings are ok but never go lower voltage. The same capacitance values should be maintained.

Also note the dimensions. You don't want to put in a cap that too tall as you might not get the shielding/covers back on and don't use one that's too big diameter as other parts and lead spacing might not allow it to fit in the space.

If at all possible, use new cap's because you have no idea what shape the used ones are in unless you know how to test them properly. Even if they look good they can still be weak and fail much sooner than expected. Capacitors are a "wear part" and is probably the most commonly replaced component in most electronics.

One last point... cap's made in China are usually crap. Get caps made in Japan and your golden! Look it up on the net.

Good to see so many are benefiting from this thread. I gotta go now and get some sleep cuz I have to go to work in the morning.


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## abel408

I actually have a subscription to this post because I like to see how many people this thread helps out. I would say we saved at least 10 monitors and that is just coming from people who take the time to create an account and post a thank you in the thread.


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## Arnis

Well I just found this thread after much searching. My monitor is displaying the same issue of going black rite after the warranty expired. Before I attempt this is there anyone close to virginia beach that is recommended to do the fix? I have never worked on electonics and never sodered anything. Is this something a newbie should attempt? And is there a special way to open the monitor as it seems to be sealed up. Thanks)


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## rkl1985

Hey guys, I have been reading this thread and my AL2223w is doing the same thing, turns on fine and shuts off after a few seconds but can still se the faint image....

Can someone link me to the parts that I probably need to replace and give me a fresh walkthrough of what I need to do.... I am a 25 year old college student who is not doing well financially and this was my first LCD monitor and i'd love to have it back and working right since it's been good to me up till now.


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## deebeg

rkl1985

After you tear apart your lcd refer to posts 17 & 19. They give you all the info required. That and $40.00 will fix your lcd. It was easy to fix and gave me a warm fussy when I turned the lcd back on after 6 months of no go.


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## TJD4224

I, too, registered to say thank you for this thread. I have an Acer X221W. It would turn on for 2 seconds and then go black. After finding this thread, I took the monitor apart and used my grandfather's old analog multimeter to verify the transformer was bad (part 8TC00332). One set of pins was not showing any connectivity. I ordered a new one for about $25
Transformer Detail Page

I've never done this kind of soldering before but I mangled through it without destroying anything else and my monitor is alive!

Many thanks,
TJ


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## shahabjet1

*Re: Acer 22 inch AL2223W: HELPPPPP*

Guys I think I am being screwed here  I have the same problem which happened a month ago! After 2 seconds monitor goes dark while the light stays green! After reading whole bunch of forums inc. here, I replaced 7 caps and inverter (circled in red in the attached photo) and same issue stayed. It did not work  What else should I do? I really do not wanna get it to the repair shop or buy a new monitor cause the first 2 seconds monitor works well and I can see the desktop! 

Help plz! Now I have spent so much time on this issue and don't wanna give up easy!


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## iyia12co

I read the posts and I had this problem last year. Just recently, I decided to do something about it. The problem is: after turning on the monitor, it displays perfectly for 1 second, then goes dark. With enough lighting, you can still see that it is still displaying (it is just so dim that no image can be seen).

Based on the threads I read, the problem seems to be the transformer. However, I performed the resistance check on the transformer and it reads near 1000 ohms, which checks out.

Refer to the images attached.

















Please advise.
Thanks


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## shahabjet1

Well, I changed that inverter as I showed in my photo and still not working


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## jst0ney

Thanks for such a great post. I was having the usual problem of the screen turning on for a second then going dark. I replaced the inverter and everything seems to be running great. The only other question I have (and it may indeed be a dumb one):

What is that white goop that is on the back side of the PCB over a couple of the solder joints? There are four solder points on the inverter that had this over it. Should I replace it? Is it necessary?

Many thanks.

Jeff


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## shahabjet1

Guys,

As I mentioned in my earlier post, I replaced all 6 caps and the inverter and still having the same issue!!! Anyone would like to kindly give me more suggestions to fix this monitor without giving it away to a repair shop? I have gone long way.... (The red circled pieces in my earlier post's attached photo have been replaced)

Thanks! Sean.


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## sjenkins

jst0ney said:


> Thanks for such a great post. I was having the usual problem of the screen turning on for a second then going dark. I replaced the inverter and everything seems to be running great. The only other question I have (and it may indeed be a dumb one):
> 
> What is that white goop that is on the back side of the PCB over a couple of the solder joints? There are four solder points on the inverter that had this over it. Should I replace it? Is it necessary?
> 
> Many thanks.
> 
> Jeff


I just took my monitor apart today and was wondering the same thing about the white goop. It is on the 4 corner legs. I assume it is for isulation? Just a guess and not sure if I should try and replace it after I replace the part.


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## JonTebo

I know im sounding like a complete noob at this but i have also a al223w im getting issues with the bottom 3rd of the screen going white and not refreshing with the rest of the screen, not too sure where to start even looking at this problem due to the fact im uncertain how to even open the monitor. any help would be greatly appreciated


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## Enigma1965

I have the same problem, How do you open the case without damaging it? don's see any visible screws to open the case and I am afraid to try and pry it apart.

:4-dontkno


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## deebeg

iyia12co said:


> I read the posts and I had this problem last year. Just recently, I decided to do something about it. The problem is: after turning on the monitor, it displays perfectly for 1 second, then goes dark. With enough lighting, you can still see that it is still displaying (it is just so dim that no image can be seen).
> 
> Based on the threads I read, the problem seems to be the transformer. However, I performed the resistance check on the transformer and it reads near 1000 ohms, which checks out.
> 
> Refer to the images attached.
> 
> View attachment 89462
> 
> 
> View attachment 89463
> 
> 
> Please advise.
> Thanks


Your .982 reading is correct but your other reading is most likely reading the resistance of the loop rather than the transformer. You will always read the lowest value in ohms. If the transformer is open then you will be reading the loop and not the transformer. My open side read around 2000 ohms.


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