# Stihl BG85C Die at Full Power



## momo9767 (Oct 20, 2014)

*Stihl BG85C Blower Die at Full Power*

I have a 6 year old Stihl BG 85C blower that has a problem this weekend when I tried to do some yard work. The blower start up fine but it will die after giving full power (after warming up). When it dies I was able to start it right back up without any trouble but as soon as I pull the trigger all the way the same result happen again. After reading on the internet, I think it is a carburetor issue but I am no expert and love to hear your feedbacks before I go out buying a new carburetor. I love this blower for all these years! Thanks in advance for your help.


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Hi and welcome to TSF

Is the carb adjustable ? Many of them are not.

Try giving it some "choke" If it seems to run a little better, the carb is too lean.

Also check your manual, you may find it requires higher octane than "Regular"

I have a Homelite and it does the same thing, runs to lean. 

BG


----------



## wristpin (Oct 24, 2014)

First and simplest check is the filter on the end of the in-tank fuel pick up. Cheap and simple to replace even if the old one looks clean.


----------



## momo9767 (Oct 20, 2014)

I installed a new carburetor in the blower and it run like *new* again!

I actually got a question regarding the old carburetor. Do you think buying a rebuild kit make sense to fix the old carburetor? Looking at the new parts, I can just reuse some of the old parts as they are made out of metal other than the gaskets. 

Thanks to all that responded.


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Rebuilding always is the first thing to do, if you suspect the carb is bad since you can't adjust it out. 

I would not rebuild the old one now since the new one could last you years, but that is a personal choice.

BG


----------



## Hired Wrench (Nov 19, 2014)

It's a common problem with chainsaw carburetors. They use diaphragms to pump and meter fuel within the carb. When the diaphragms are new, they're flexible like fabric, as they age they get stiffer, more like paper, so they don't move properly and the engine starves for fuel. A diaphragm kit is usually less than $15, so replacing the diaphragms is a very cost effective repair if you can pull it off. 

Once you have the carb removed, give it a good cleaning, they're usually coated in crap. There are two covers you have to remove, one on each side of the carb. One side is the pump assembly, usually held on with a single screw in the center, the other is the metering assembly. usually held on with 4 screws. I like to take them both off at the same time, but you might find it easier to do one at a time.. There isn't much to changing diaphragms, just make sure you get them in the right way, so keep careful track of how they are arranged. There is a small screen inside the carb, on the pump side. Make sure it's clean. Other than that, just switch out the diaphragms making sure to put them in the same order they were originally in. It's rare, but on some carbs, the metering arm is forked and locks into the metering diaphragm (the one with the metal plate) so watch out for that.


----------

