# MSI Motherboard



## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Well, my computer lately has been making some noises (I'm 200% sure its not supposed to be making them) and just shutting down and coming back on randomly. At times instead of just shutting down and coming back up, it will come on go off, come on go off and do it over and over again. The only way to stop it is to take away the power (any option works, switch off power supply, surge protector, wall plug, etc.). I think this is my motherboard messing things up.

Here are my specs:

Power Supply: It came with the case, which is Rosewell. It is a 400 Watt.

Motherboard: MSI PM8M-V (V-Class), Series (MS-7104 v1.X) M-ATX. Socket: I'm not sure, but is 478 acceptable??

CPU/Processor: Intel Celeron D, 2.3 GHz.

RAM: 512 MB, two sticks of 256 first is Rosewell, as for the second I'm not quite sure.

Video: ATI Radeon 7500 Series.

Hard drive: Maxtor 6L080L0, 80 GB split into 8 10 GB partitions.

Operating System: Windows XP Home, with SP2.

I tried to be as thorough as possible, but I might have left something important out. Let me know if there is ANYTHING I missed that could be important.

Thanks in advance,
Tim


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## Punktech (Mar 26, 2007)

Noise would have 2 sources. First and most common one is the fans ( chipset, cpu, psu fans ) or your harddrive. Open up the side of your computer and try to find where exactly it is coming from. You may need a fan replacement. If it is a clicking noise coming from a big rectangular metal box then it is your HD failing. Back up your data asap. If not if it is one of the fans a replacement would do. If it is the power supply I would replace the whole thing as opposed to just replacing the fan as your power supply is a generic brand and a new one better serves and protects your system.

* My bet will be the power supply failure.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

It just happens, and it only does once, I think the noise sounds to be the hard drive (it almost sounds metallic), but my soundcard was going out (on the motherboard) which also hints that my motherboard is possibly going out. This computer is not even 3 years old if everything goes out, I'm gonna go cry. The system was fine until I upgraded from Windows 2000 Pro to Windows XP Home.

Granted some of the parts are slightly older (the gfx card, and 1 RAM), but all of therm were fine. :upset:


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## twajetmech (Jul 1, 2004)

Punktech got it....it does indeed sound like your psu has gone bad, and Rosewill is not high on the list of quality psu's, read the power supply artical linked below for reccomendations.


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## twajetmech (Jul 1, 2004)

is it a clicking sound ?


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

I think I'm just gonna salvage working parts off this one, and build a new one.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

It sounds less like a click, and more like a crash. I'm not sure how to explain it.


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## Deleted090308 (Jan 25, 2007)

Hi,
Can you get into BIOS? If so - find a section that shows the temperatures and voltages. Write those values down and post back.

Nicholas


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Hmmm, my BIOS sucks, I don't think it lists temperatures, would using SpeedFan to detect them work?

I'm more of a software environment person then a hardware guy.

My hard drive MIGHT be above nromal, I can't tell. It reads 35C but my temperatures are all around the board.


There is one labled as "Temp2" and its always got the up arrow in red, and whenever my processor starts working it goes to a fire sign.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Tim85 said:


> It sounds less like a click, and more like a crash. I'm not sure how to explain it.


Backup your data ASAP. Crashing sounds from a HD is never a good sign.

Invest in a Seagate or Western Digital hard drive and a decent power supply. You can get an Antec Trio 550w from Newegg for around $85.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

35c on the HD isn't bad. What does speedfan say your Voltages are?


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

It says:

Vcore: 1.43V
+12V: 11.92V
3.3V: 3.36V
Vcc: 5.07V
Win2: 0.00V
5Vsb: 5.09V
Vbat: 0.00V


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## Punktech (Mar 26, 2007)

> It sounds less like a click, and more like a crash. I'm not sure how to explain it.


Record it and attach it ? 

If you open up the computer can you locate your HD and make sure it is coming from it ?


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Punktech said:


> Record it and attach it ?


It just happens, it hasn't happened since around 3:00 PM (its 2:41 AM where I am) Usually about 5-10 mins after the noise the computer crashes.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Also, I'm not sure if this means anything, but I have a Lite-On DVD drive, and recently unless there is something inside the drive when the computer boots up, it doesn't show up in My Computer, it still opens and reads the disc, but its in-accessible and nothing pops up for auto-runs or anything.


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## Punktech (Mar 26, 2007)

unplug the power from the cd rom and boot.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Ok, what will this do?


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Tim85 said:


> It says:
> 
> Vcore: 1.43V
> +12V: 11.92V
> ...


Other than Vbat reading 0.0 (might not have a sensor) I don't think the voltages look to bad. I would still consider a better PSU though. I quoted the price wrong however, the Trio 430w is about $88 shipped. Price must of jumped.

It really wouldn't be shock if your HD was going though. I used to buy Maxtors all the time until I three different PCs comeback for repair due to HD failure in less than a year from being built. Been buy Seagate and WD ever since. Haven't been let down yet.


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## Punktech (Mar 26, 2007)

> Ok, what will this do?


Eliminate the possibility of cd rom making the noise. However this would not cause the system to be instable. I think you should pin point the source of the noise by listening to it, side open.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Ok, I know I'm doing something wrong here. I can't get the power out. But the noise is lower. I thought it might be my floppy acting up. Its right above my HD, but that still doesn't explain why it crashes. Also, the noise IS NOT a all the time thing, it just happens and its loud. It reminds me of the noise you get when you drop the side piece of a case.

I think I will redo. My dad has a Maxtor 300 GB, it gives him problems when booting. He can't restart, although we believe its a motherboard error, he has a ASUS.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Tim85 said:


> Hmmm, my BIOS sucks, I don't think it lists temperatures, would using SpeedFan to detect them work?
> 
> I'm more of a software environment person then a hardware guy.
> 
> ...


Check this monitoring tool out, instead of temp1,temp2,etc, it actually tells you what it's reading. CPU,GPU,SYS,etc.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Ok, it gives me stuff. Also Vbat now shows up.

I'm going to bed, and is it normal for AUX to read out 208 C? 


I was transferring some files around, and it made the noise it sounds liek the noise it makes when you press the restart button.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Tim85 said:


> Ok, it gives me stuff. Also Vbat now shows up.
> 
> I'm going to bed, and is it normal for AUX to read out 208 C?


 Yes. Your board doesn't have the sensor it's looking for.
Could you post the temps that sensorview is showing? Just to satisfy my curiosity.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

It hasn't crashed yet so sure.
EDIT:
CPU: 46C NOW>> 47C
SYS: 41C
AUX: 208C
HD0: 38C


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Let me make that more clear, the sound the button makes not the computers beeping.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

It's still running, although slow...


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

The next time you use your system disconnect your optical drives and your floppy. Then run your system for awhile, if you still hear the clicking or crash sound then that would narrow it down to your HD. (which I think is the culprit anyway)
By the way, did you back up your important data?

I'm about to go bed myself. I'll check back in with you tomorrow.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Yes I backed it up. Ok, I'll try tomorrow.


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## Deleted090308 (Jan 25, 2007)

Tim85 said:


> Hmmm, my BIOS sucks, I don't think it lists temperatures, would using SpeedFan to detect them work?
> 
> I'm more of a software environment person then a hardware guy.
> 
> ...


That 'Temp2' is a little disturbing. Did you open the case and take a look at the fans/heatsinks? Anything loose? Lots of dust? Again - I think you should look in BIOS (PC health status or something similar) - write down the temps/voltages. Software probe programs sometimes misread those values.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Ok, heres fan speeds, temps, and voltages:

System: 37C
CPU: 50C
System Fan: 0 RPM
CPU Fan: 2250 RPM
CPU Vcore: 1.37V
12V: 11.79V
3.3V: 3.39V
5V: 5.10V
VBAT: 3.31V
SVSB: 5.13V

I wrote them exactly like it showed them. Although on the last one, my writing could of been better so it might have said something different. :4-thatsba


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

I have a question, how long can this HD last me? I mean I've got my important stuff backed up on two full CD's, but to use the computer how long? I'm just not exactly wallowing in money to spend on a computer, and this time I'm going to buy higher grade parts.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Tim85 said:


> I have a question, how long can this HD last me? I mean I've got my important stuff backed up on two full CD's, but to use the computer how long? I'm just not exactly wallowing in money to spend on a computer, and this time I'm going to buy higher grade parts.


That's really hard to say Tim. It could die in the next 5mins or it might last 6mo a year...??? 

Has anyone ask you to run a HD diagnostic tool yet?


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

I did run Check Disk, the windows one (it did it before a boot) it old me everything was a-ok. I need it to last for me. Is there anything I can do to increase it's chances of lasting? I'm going to price a new computer up right now.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Checkout these links. 

Maxtor was bought by Seagate so I don't know if they'll honor the warranty if one still exists, but it never hurts to try. Some maxtors came with 3yr warranties others only had a year.

The other link is to the diagnostic tool. That'll detect HD problems.

http://support.seagate.com/customer/warranty_validation.jsp

http://www.seagate.com/ww/v/index.j...toid=720bd20cacdec010VgnVCM100000dd04090aRCRD

Let me know how it goes.


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## Deleted090308 (Jan 25, 2007)

How old is your computer? Have you ever opened the case?


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

It says my freaking expiration is 2009.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

The case is open, its about 2.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Tim85 said:


> I did run Check Disk, the windows one (it did it before a boot) it old me everything was a-ok. I need it to last for me. Is there anything I can do to increase it's chances of lasting? I'm going to price a new computer up right now.


Cross your fingers:grin: 

Run the diagnostic tool and lets what it says.

Seagate HDs starting @ $46 shipped. 5 yr warranty.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2010150014 50001305&bop=And&Order=PRICE


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Tim85 said:


> It says my freaking expiration is 2009.


Warranty expiration?


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Yes warranty expiration. I'm still gonna build a new one even if they offer to replace every part in this computer, because I need a new one.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Cool. 

I'm off to work. 

I'll check back in later. Run the diagnostic if you have time.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Ok, I'll tell you how it goes.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Ok, the tests just get to the end and say "Aborted!", my computer is cleaned out though. I also priced a new computer. So far its going to cost around $300, for the mother board, processor, gfx card, sound card, cd/dvd rw, ram, mouse & keyboard, power supply, case, and hard drive. Here are the stats on them.

Motherboard: PC Chips, M860, Socket 754.

Processor: AMD Athlon 64, 2.2 GHz

Graphics Card: HIS Radeon 9250 128 MB, 64 Bit

Case: Coolmax Black Steel Case

Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 120 GB

PSU: Sunbeam 580 Watts

Keyboard: Logitech UltraX Silver

Mouse: Logitech BT-58 Black 3 Buttons

RAM: APIDA 512MB

Drives: ASUS DVD/CD RW with Light Scribe

Sound: PPA 1417

They aren't the best, but they aren't to shabby. Do you think it would be adequate to handle some gaming? My current is good enough for me. So if this will outperform in graphics then its all good.


NOTE: My old gfx was a Radeon 7500, with 128 MB. I assume the newer one with 128 should outperform.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Change that motherboard to: Foxconn K8S755A-6EKRS. It's just all around better, better reviews and a lower price.

Also change the Sound Card to: CHAINTECH AV-710 7.1 Channels

I'm finding better ones, that ones 10 dollars more, but better reviews and more quality.

It won't let me edit.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

"Ok, the tests just get to the end and say "Aborted!", my computer is cleaned out though."

RMA the drive Tim, if it can't make through the diagnostic without aborting is bad.

What do you men by my computer is cleaned out? You cleaned the dust out or lost your data?

I'll post my opinion on those system components tohight when I get home from work.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

I just cleaned out the dust, and it can't seem to. I also picked a different graphics card out...again.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Ok, change the power supply to.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Heres the updated stats:

Power Supply: Antec True Power Trio TP3-550
Graphics Card: EVGA 256-P2-N541-T2 GeForce 7600GS (I'm looking at others to, but I think it'll be this one)
Case: COOLMAX CS-480-Black
Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 160 GB
Processor: AMD Athlon 64 X2 3600+ Windsor 2.0GHz (Dual Core)
Motherboard: MSI K9N4 Ultra-F Socket AM2
Keyboard: Logitech UltraX Silver/Black
Mouse: Logitech BT-58
RAM: WINTEC AMPO 1GB (2 x 512MB) 240-Pin
Drives: ASUS Black (CD/DVD RW, w/ LightScribe), and SAMSUNG Black 1.44MB
Sound Card: CHAINTECH AV-710 7.1 Channels

If you see any incompatibility please let me know.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Looks good Tim, but unless you're getting a smoking deal on the PSU, get this one instead. $110 delivered to your doorstep. 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371001


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

This is the one I'm getting.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16817371002


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## twajetmech (Jul 1, 2004)

My 2¢ I would reccomend you stay away from the Antec TP 550....they've been problematic....the Antec Trio line on the other hand have been outstanding. I'd also reccomend you plug that configuration into the psu calculator (don't forget to add 30% to its results link below in psu selector guide) I'm thinking it may be a tad under the power I'd prefer to see in such a rig....from the looks of it you will be able to upgrade in the future (better videocard more HD's etc) and you'll want more power than a 550W can handle then. I would also consider 2Gb of ram, especially if you plan on running Vista anytime soon or do any gaming. You can also make sure that some of your components (keyboard, soundcard, mouse have Vista drivers available or are compatible with Vista for less headaches when you upgrade.


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## geek73 (Mar 29, 2007)

Just my opinion but Antec PSU's have been getting a bad rap lately.. Granted I have never had problems with em, but the best psu's to get would be Tagen or PC&pc.. There a little more expensive but have better efficiency(88 to 90) and are built alot better.

Edit: TWA beat me to it lol.. I see you also love PC&pc lol


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Ok then, I'll take a look at the other one hes got listed. Thanks.


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## twajetmech (Jul 1, 2004)

LOL, yes, geek73, pcp&c is the best, but they are expensive and out of budget for most. I would reccomend the pcp&c 610 or even 750, also the Seasonic line is outstanding, and Seasonic also makes the Antec Trio's ! Just depends on what the wallet can support.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

geek73 said:


> Just my opinion but Antec PSU's have been getting a bad rap lately.. Granted I have never had problems with em, but the best psu's to get would be Tagen or PC&pc.. There a little more expensive but have better efficiency(88 to 90) and are built alot better.
> 
> Edit: TWA beat me to it lol.. I see you also love PC&pc lol


The problematic Antec PSUs are the Smart Power and True Power series. The Trio series is a very good PSU and he is looking at the Trio 550. The Trio 650 is what I linked to for the same price as the 550. More power without changing the budget.:wink:


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

I've decided on the one mattlock listed. I am trying to make this thing as good as possible without spending $500-600. And am finding out this is not easily done, lol.


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## twajetmech (Jul 1, 2004)

Great find Mattlock....Tim you should have a fine system when you're done, and you're right its not easy, let us know how the build goes.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Tim85 said:


> I've decided on the one mattlock listed. I am trying to make this thing as good as possible without spending $500-600. And am finding out this is not easily done, lol.


Since you're building from the ground up, RMA that bogus hard drive, and sell your MSI setup to offset the cost of the new build. 

I can't tell you how upgrades I've gotten for next to nothing by doing that:grin:


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

I'll be sure to let you know. I'm thinking yes on that, how much do you think I could get for it? A problem is that its got a LED case, which anyone I know who'd wanna buy it wouldn't want the lights. This time I'm going for solid black/silver case.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

I gotta tone this thing down, its totaling $572 not including shipping.

Here are some alternative graphics cards to the $93 one...

#1
#2
#3

Will any of these even decently compare to this one?


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## geek73 (Mar 29, 2007)

go with number 3 as number one is an AGP card.. 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130025

Both are 256 megs 128 bit..


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

I noticed how their stats were pretty close (closer than all the rest atleast), but sometimes I miss things.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Tim85 said:


> I'll be sure to let you know. I'm thinking yes on that, how much do you think I could get for it? A problem is that its got a LED case, which anyone I know who'd wanna buy it wouldn't want the lights. This time I'm going for solid black/silver case.


Not a problem, just disconnect the LEDs. 
You could put it on Ebay or in the classifieds. Lots of people like the bling

It's hard to say how much you could get for it. If you have a legit copy of WindowsXP and plan on using it on your new system, you won't be able use it the old system. So you would either have to sell it without an OS, or order an OEM version on the cheap. (If you don't have a legal version of Windows we don't need to know. The forum frowns on that sort of thing.) 
Anyway, I think with Windows installed, you should be able get $150-$200 for from someone who isn't in the know.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

I see, I have a copy of Windows 2000 Pro not installed on anything. It used to be on this one. I could put it back on here.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

What Rosewill case do you currently have? I only assume it's a Rosewill because you have a Rosewill PSU.

Is it this one?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147010


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

I have a question, I found another processor, and it will considerable lower the price, but I know it will lower performance, please tell me how much.

New Processor

The other was this one.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

No it is not, it has a clear side.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

It looks kinda like this one. Mine they don't have anymore.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Tim85 said:


> I gotta tone this thing down, its totaling $572 not including shipping.
> 
> Here are some alternative graphics cards to the $93 one...
> 
> ...


If you can wait on the rebate, get the 7600. It's actually $3 cheaper than the 7300 after rebate because it has free shipping right now.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Yes it is. Wow. Hmm...


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

The processor I found, I found its same model only dual-core and its only like $14 more.

Here

Also heres a fan for it. It may not be compatible I can't tell, lol.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Tim85 said:


> The processor I found its same model only dual-core and its only like $4 more.


Which CPU are talking about?

The Venice that you linked to is a socket 754 so you have to pick a different MB. The 754 platform is dead. If you want to that route I would suggest going with a socket 939 instead. It's a dead platform also but one generation newer than the 754. Better CPUs and memory controller.

Ok. give me a minute


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

This ones socket is AM2. And I need a compatibility check on all this stuff, I'm not so sure it'll all go together so well...

Also, can you help me find a good (REASONABLY PRICED) heatsink, and fan?


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

I'm just gonna stay with the windsor, after a heatsink and fan the other one is a better deal.

Sorry I keep running you around in circles. I'm just trying to keep it fast, but make it cheaper.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

I'm not sure, but I don't think there's much of a performance difference between the Brisbane ($69) and the Windsor ($83). The Brisbane is the newer core and is based on 65nm technology whereas the Windsor is built on 90nm technology. Since we're tring to save money, the better deal for you is actually the Winsdor for $83. You get a 3yr warranty and it comes with AMDs stock heatsink and fan. You won't be able to buy a decent HS&fan for $14.
The other CPU has no fan and only a 30 day warranty.

As for the HS & Fan you linked to it's not compatible with newer CPUs and wouldn't cool them if it were.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Ok, I noticed that. Yes, I thought it wasn't, but I'm not very technical, I'm still learning. With reduction, my current price is: $530. Is there a good PSU fro lower?


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Good thinking. LOL

Could you link to the case you picked out?


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Lol, I know. I'm just a super genius. Here.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Let me look around for a PSU.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Ok, did you look at the case? I really appreciate your help, I'm just lost in all this stuff. Lol.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

If you can wait on the rebate you can save $15 on the this PSU.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817171011


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Hmm...rebates don't change how much you have to pay right then though. I am looking to save right then hopefully, but can't be skimping on the graphics. :wink:]


EDIT: Also, my HD has been making the noise excessively, but no crashing yet, just extreme slowness. I left the side off the computer for now.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Here's another route you could go. Just get the CPU, MB, PSU, RAM, and Video card. Use your old case, keyboard, etc until you can afford to replace them with the ones you want.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Yes that is possible. But the case is only 25, and the mouse & keyboard are only 25 also (both of them put together is 25). The drives are only 30.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Ok, the 3 main things eating my wallet are: PSU: $110, GFX Card: $73, and Processor: $84.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Tim85 said:


> Yes that is possible. But the case is only 25, and the mouse & keyboard are only 25 also (both of them put together is 25). The drives are only 30.


I always look at the total cost (price plus S&H) you case is about $37 total. Haven't looked up the other stuff but I'm betting the drive is closer to $35(unless free shipping sale) same for the mouse and KB. 

By the way, I know you're tring to shave cost, but I would spend $7 more on this ram. 

Corsair makes great ram. Wintec?????


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Yes, you're right, but I'm thinking just raw cost, once S & H, I am putting the budget down enough to make up for S & H.

Ok, good idea I have my price down to $55 for Transcend JetRam 1GB and it has good reviews. So I don't know.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Looking for another PSU. BRB


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Ok, again thank you for your time. ray:


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Where do you live? City, State. If you don't want to post it PM me. When looking for a better deal on a PSU I have to consider shipping because $110 is the total on the Trio 650


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Dang 4 AM already!

And you're Welcome.:wave:


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Yes, its already 4. I should probably go to bed soon. But I won't, lol.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Another thing, I have a NetGear WG311v3 Wireless Network Card, do you see this causing any sort of problem?


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

This will save you $15. I actually found it for $80 but I couldn't find out the shipping cost, and I've never ordered from the site so I can't endorse them put if you want to check it out go here.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Tim85 said:


> Another thing, I have a NetGear WG311v3 Wireless Network Card, do you see this causing any sort of problem?


What kind of problems?


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Well, I see the other one, I'll do some research on the site. But it looks good, thanks. Here, I'll post a full list of whats costing what:

Case: $25
PSU: $110
GFX Card: $73
Hard Drive: $57
Processor: $84
Mother Board: $59
Keyboard: $15
Mouse: $10
RAM: $55
DVD/CD: $30
Floppy: $7

Total: $525


Nothing specific, I'm just talking like conflicts, any problems with its wireless, that sorta thing.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Apparently xPCGear has a bad rep for shipping defective ASUS motherbaords then being pain in the butts to get anything fixed.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

This other PSU will it have enough power for everything, and if I ever wanted to upgrades?


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Tim85 said:


> Well, I see the other one, I'll do some research on the site. But it looks good, thanks. Here, I'll post a full list of whats costing what:
> 
> Case: $25
> PSU: $110
> ...


Wireless will be fine.

could you kink to the ram you're looking at?


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Sure. Here.

:laugh: If you go to their product page on their site, they want $80.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

It'll run what you want to order with no problem and as some overhead for upgrades, but as you have to sacrifice something if you quality components on a budget. What you're giving up is some upgradablity.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

I think I'm going to stick with the current PSU, I would prefer to get all my stuff from one place, and its only $15 less, and I'm losing quite a bit of power.

Note: I said I THINK. I'm still thinking.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Ok, I've decided to give up some upgrade ability for $15. If I overdo how much it can handle, its possible to upgrade the PSU later.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

THINK about this ram. It's only $2 more and reputable company.

Check out the user reviews. 89% out 67 reviews are 5 eggs.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Looks good, I'll go with it instead, check out this motherboard.
It's better than the other one in some ways.


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## twajetmech (Jul 1, 2004)

Nothing short of a 6800GT will compare to a 7600GS especially in that price range I'd stay away from the 5500 its loud and cannot come near the performance of a 6800GT or 7600GT and the 7300 is so underwhelming I think you'll be disapointed if you attempt any gaming at all....bite the bullet on this if you can and stick to the 7600 its a very good card for its performance and price. Check out the Asus M2A series of mobos a decent one can be had for bit over $60 PS...some one linked to zipzoomfly.....they are a reputable company, I've used them many times with no problems, as are newegg, tigerdirect, silverpc, and frozencpu, and once in a while even amazon !


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

I am planning to. Thanks.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

I've gotta go soon, so tell me what you think of the Mother Board, and I'll add up the stuff. Then I gotta go. I'll be back tomorrow.

EDIT: My bad, today.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Tim85 said:


> Looks good, I'll go with it instead, check out this motherboard.
> It's better than the other one in some ways.


Personally I would take a MSI over PCcrap anyday. MSI, Gigabyte, Asus, and even Epox are all good boards makers. Some might disagree with Epox but I've had great luck with them.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Ok, I'll check those out tomorrow.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Whats wrong with them?


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

As for the Cooler Master 500w, you'll be fine with it according to the PSU calculater.

I'm off to bed also. I was hoping to be in bed by 3am. Oh well, I can sleep when I'm dead. :grin:


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Hows this motherboard?

Lol, ok. See ya later.

I removed the link, I didn't notice its Socket 754.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Just from personal experience, I've had alot of problems with budget builds on ECS and PCchip boards (same maker). That was several years ago though. They may have improved, but once it get burned by a product a few times I stay away from it.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Yea, if your still on, check out this one real quick.


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Remember the adage, "you get what you pay for." Try to line up a buyer for your current system to offset your cost, and pull the trigger.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

I may have just not caught that, but the motherboard? I may know a potential buyer. I'm not sure how much they will give me though....


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

I believe ASrocks is a owned by Asus. I don't have any experience with them myself however. 
Keep in mind that "OpenBox" items are basically customer returns.
I'll do a little research on the board when I get home from work later on tonight.
Catch ya later.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Bye, talk to ya later.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Ok, I rigged up another one (not for me) the person basically just browses the internet and uses Word. Let me know what you think of it.

Case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811220012
CD/DVD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135141
Floppy: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16821103203
Motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819104241
Harddrive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819104241
Processor: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103521
RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820146532
PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817103483
Keyboard/Mouse: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823141018
Speakers: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16836150044

Total $318


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Grr. It won't change the link for the processor this is the one I want: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819104241


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## mattlock (Dec 28, 2005)

Tim85 said:


> Ok, I rigged up another one (not for me) the person basically just browses the internet and uses Word. Let me know what you think of it.
> 
> Case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811220012
> CD/DVD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135141
> ...


 You have no MB linked just 2 cpus.

You have the perfect setup for surfing and word, sell it to them and build your new rig. You said you need cut cost now, sell them the one you have for $150-$200 and bam, instant cost cutting. 

To cut your down time you could do something like, 
1) Order your new HD now, and Get your RMA started for your existing drive. 
2) As soon as you get the new drive install it and send the other to Seagate.
3) You get the replacement drive, and install it.
4) Sell your rig
5) Order new parts.

At the most you're without your rig for 5-6 days. (It'll seem like a lifetime but you'll survive. Be Strong. :grin:


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

None of the links work now. I need to get some stuff done. I am looking at cooling for the HD, I'm making sure everything is fine. I've gotten my stuff down to $470.


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## geek73 (Mar 29, 2007)

tim you wont need any cooling for the HD's this is only for hard core gamers and raptor hard drives..Add the money you would spend on a hd cooler to your pot again


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

I know I don't necessarily need it, but I'm getting it. A cheaper one. If I'm going to spend $500 on this thing, I'm going to spend another $10-15 to ensure it works as long and as good as possible.


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## Tim85 (Mar 28, 2007)

Hmm.... Well w/e.


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