# Briggs & Stratton 5hp 130202 -no spark after new ignition coil



## elmc

I don't know much about small engines, trying to get this one working.

I replaced my old ignition coil because i read that it should read 2-5 ohms from plug wire to ground when it is disconnected. I did get spark before replacement, now I cant get any spark. The new coil doesn't read 2-5 ohms either! Did I get a bad coil? Is there something else I can try? I get a small reading on my voltmeter set to dc volts when the magnet passes by the coil. I replaced the spark plug also.

The old coil had wires entering a hole behind the flywheel. The new coil's instructions told me to cut those wires. I ran the ground wire straight to a ground under the gas tank. 

Any help would be awesome! Thanx!


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## jrrdw

The new coil has a wire lug on it. When you connect that lug to a grounding source it shuts down the coil to stop the engine. You need to connect that wire to the stop switch only. 

Move the throttle linkage and watch it carefully, it will come into contact with a little metal tab that has a insulator. That is where the wire hooks to that way when you shut the throttle all the way off it stops the ignition from firing the spark plug and shuts the engine down.


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## elmc

Thanks, I didn't quite understand how the kill switch works and I had it wired wrong.

So, I now have spark. The engine idles smoothly, but under load it stalls. It also doesn't start very easily. I have to pull start it 5 times with the choke on then once with the choke off to start it, then it dies under load.

I have taken apart and cleaned the carb, new gaskets and diaphragm on the carb. I replaced the spark plug, ignition coil, spark plug boot. I took the head cover off and wire brush cleaned under there and replaced the head gasket.

After all this it still doesnt start easily and dies under load, any help? Whats next?


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## jrrdw

Adjust the carburator, what is the type number on the engine?


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## elmc

here are all the numbers off the engine.

130202
0640-02
76061807

I have also replaced the breather and the rubber elbow grommets between the breather and carb.

When I had the carb apart, every port seemed clean. I could blow air freely thru every port. The only thing I couldn't do was remove the two plastic tubes extending from the carb into the gas tank. They have a hex head on them but I couldnt get them to budge. They were flexing and I was afraid to break them. I cleaned the screens on them as best as I could, and I was able to blow air thru them, they didn't seem blocked. I did not soak the carb in carb cleaner because I couldn't remove those tubes and I was afraid they would melt in the carb cleaner. I did spray carb cleaner throughout and everything seemed clean.

Today we got some snow, it seems to be running slightly better but still stalling under load. After all this work I've done, it now back fires more than it ever has. I have attempted to tune the carb, but it seems I cant find a sweet spot. The slightest turn on that screw and it stalls. 

I have tried running it without the gas cap also, no difference.

These pictures are before I took apart the carb.


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## elmc

Here's two more pics.

It seems like when I have the speed control all the way up, it should run at a higher rpm. If I push the lever to the right of the tuning screw slightly while it is running the rpm's go up and it runs smoother and sounds more like I would imagine its supposed to sound at a high rpm setting. Is there a way to adjust the high end of the speed control?

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated, I'm so frustrated and my back hurts from shoveling. :sigh:


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## elmc

This last pic is after I removed the head cover and after I removed and cleaned the carb and replaced the ignition coil.


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## jrrdw

Some times with a engine this old (1976 in this case) you have to adjust those type carburators with the throttle wide open, work fast. You should be getting 3600 RPM's at full throttle. 

While you got the cylinder head off you should inspect where the valves seat against the block, and check the valve guides. Just under the valve face is the 'margin' where it's tapered at a angle and meets the block. It should be the same width all the way around, if they aren't you need a valve job. 

While the valve is in the open position wiggle it, if there is a lot of side to side slop the guides are worn and maybe even the valve stem. If there is slop you need a valve job and new guides probably new valves as well.


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## sonofagun

On some smaller hp briggs and stratton engine there are either a spring or a linkage going from the carb throttle plate to the governor . It could be a weak spring or an adjustment with the linkage. Also be sure to set the gap between the ignition coil and flywheel. They usually run best at .008".


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## goriders

Hello, this does not directly relate to the problem at hand. In the sixth post the first picture there is a spring on the control rod (throttle), lower down between the tank and recoil cover. What does this spring do. I also have 5hp 130202-0862-02 built in 1978. I have looked all over the web and looked in the manual which is very vague. The sping is 217A. i have included the part from the manual.:banghead:


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