# Building my first rig, need advice



## luke1909 (Jul 26, 2007)

I'm preparing to assemble a PC for the first time. I've got my parts chosen right now, but i'm not sure if i've made the best choices. I basically want a general purpose PC with a lot of memory (I've got a lot of music, videos, photos, etc.) with very little focus on graphical performance because I don't do any gaming. So basically I want a PC with a good processor and a lot of space with an average video card. Here's what I've come up with.


C283-1002 :: Cooler Master Centurion 5 - Silver ATX Mid-Tower Case with Front USB, Firewire and Audio Ports (30 lbs)


H24-PP655 SB :: HP 1024MB PC3200 DDR2 400MHz ECC Memory (1 lbs)


ULT40032 :: Ultra X-Wind Socket 2200rpm K8/AM2 Copper CPU Cooling Fan (1.95 lbs)


A179-1737 :: Acer AL1717FB 17" LCD Monitor - 5ms, 800:1, SXGA 1280x1024, VGA, Built-In Speakers (12.05 lbs)


T777-1028 :: Turtle Beach Montego 7.1 Dolby Digital Live Surround PCI Sound Card (0.15 lbs)


L12-1097 :: Lite-On LH-16D1P-187 Retail DVD-ROM Drive - 16x DVD-ROM, 48x CD-ROM, Black, Internal (1.75 lbs)


TSD-320AS :: Seagate / 320GB / 7200 / 16MB / SATA-300 / OEM / Hard Drive (1 lbs)


P450-8654 :: XFX GeForce 8500 GT / 256MB DDR2 / SLI Ready / PCI Express / DL DVI / VGA / HDTV / Video Card (1.15 lbs)


CP2-DUO-Q6600 :: Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 2.40GHz / 8MB Cache / 1066MHz FSB / Kentsfield / Quad Core / OEM / Socket 775 / Processor (0.1 lbs)


E145-2012 :: EVGA nForce 680i SLI NVIDIA Socket 775 ATX Motherboard (New A1 Version) / Audio / PCI Express / SLI / Dual Gigabit LAN / S/PDIF / USB 2.0 & Firewire / Serial ATA / RAID (5.15 lbs)


What I'm looking to find out here is if 1.) These parts are compatible 2.) This configuration will work well.

Thank you guys.


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## redsunx (Apr 5, 2007)

Looks good to me couple things the ram is incompatible with the motherboard
Memory Supported: 533MHz DDR2
Dual Channel Supported
667MHz DDR2
800MHz DDR2
1200MHz DDR2 (SLI-Ready)
the board supports that ,and notice the dvd drive isnt a burner


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## TheMatt (May 9, 2006)

There are two things I want to point out:

The eVGA boards aren't exactly yhe best quality. I would look at boards like the Foxconn 680i. Unfortunately, Tigerdirect doesn't have that board, so these are good choices:

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2896656&CatId=2541
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-Details.asp?EdpNo=3127546&sku=M452-2680

Also, you didn't include a PSU. What were you planning on adding?

Additonally, you don't need expensive ECC memory. Get something like this:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1882393&CatId=2261


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## luke1909 (Jul 26, 2007)

TheMatt said:


> Also, you didn't include a PSU. What were you planning on adding?


Any suggestions?


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## luke1909 (Jul 26, 2007)

Ok, think I found a good PSU. So, i've taken the suggestions and updated. Here's what I have now.

*Processor* 
CP2-DUO-Q6600 :: Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 2.40GHz / 8MB Cache / 1066MHz FSB / Kentsfield / Quad Core / OEM / Socket 775 / Processor (0.1 lbs)

*Hard Drive	*
TSD-320AS :: Seagate / 320GB / 7200 / 16MB / SATA-300 / OEM / Hard Drive (1 lbs)

*RAM* 
O261-8032 :: OCZ Dual Channel XTC 2048MB PC5400 DDR2 667MHz Gamer Memory (2 x 1024MB) (0.4 lbs)

*Motherboard*
A455-2326 :: Asus P5N32-E SLI Plus NVIDIA Socket 775 ATX Motherboard / Audio / PCI Express / Quad SLI Ready / Dual Gigabit LAN / S/PDIF / USB 2.0 & Firewire / Serial ATA / RAID (4.55 lbs)

*CD/DVD Drive & Burner	* 
P67-1298 :: Plextor PX-800A/SW-BL SuperMulti Retail DVD Burner - 18x DVD±R Burn, 16x DVD±R Read, 8x DVD+RW, 6x DVD-RW, 8x DVD±R DL, 12x DVD-RAM, Black (2.35 lbs)

*Power Supply	*
GEN-2004 :: Power Up / 550-Watt / ATX / 120mm Fan / SATA-Ready / Power Supply (4.55 lbs)

*Case* 
C283-1002 :: Cooler Master Centurion 5 - Silver ATX Mid-Tower Case with Front USB, Firewire and Audio Ports (30 lbs)

*Monitor	*
A179-1737 :: Acer AL1717FB 17" LCD Monitor - 5ms, 800:1, SXGA 1280x1024, VGA, Built-In Speakers (12.05 lbs)

*Sound Card* 
T777-1028 :: Turtle Beach Montego 7.1 Dolby Digital Live Surround PCI Sound Card (0.15 lbs)

*Video Card	* 
P450-8654 :: XFX GeForce 8500 GT / 256MB DDR2 / SLI Ready / PCI Express / DL DVI / VGA / HDTV / Video Card (1.15 lbs)

So I've changed some things, so again, I'm not positive if everything is compatible. Does this look ok? I really appreciate the help.


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## HawMan (May 12, 2006)

Edit - the PSU Matt has chosen is a good one!


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## TheMatt (May 9, 2006)

I would look at this for the PSU. The power supply is one of the most important components in your system and quite often should be one of the most expensive single items. Take look at this:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2929621&CatId=1483


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## luke1909 (Jul 26, 2007)

Ok, I've chosen Matt's suggested PSU. So, does this config (2 posts up) look ok? Everything compatible? The price right now is exactly where I wanted it so I feel good about this configuration, I just need approval from you guys because I trust you know more than I do.


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## redsunx (Apr 5, 2007)

Looks good to me , the sound card was a slick move what do the rest of you guys think?


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

IMHO your buying more CPU than you need by a long shot!



you stated above :

*with very little focus on graphical performance because I don't do any gaming*


the premier task the Quad does well is very high end commerical graphics, which you say you are not into, the quad is not as good a choice for gaming yet either, but you stated your not into gaming


I think you would be much better served by E6600 E6750 E6850

*your money *?????? >>>>> even the E6550 would suit your needs just fine!


a non-gamer doesnt need an SLI board ????? waste of $$$$$

Matts choice of board by the way has it all over those fussy / finicky 680 EVGA boards


enjoy >>>>> your computer needs are not hard to meet, so dont waste your $$$$


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## HawMan (May 12, 2006)

I agree with linderman. Something like the E6600 will do you perfectly, Its still a Super fast CPU.


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## TheMatt (May 9, 2006)

linderman said:


> *your money *?????? >>>>> even the E6550 would suit your needs just fine!


That would be my choice. That is currently the best bang for your buck right now. And the board you chose supports the 1333 MHz FSB.


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## luke1909 (Jul 26, 2007)

Quick question, is the case I chose a good choice? How can I be sure if everything will fit properly?

Also, I took your guys' advice and chose a cheaper CPU.


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## redsunx (Apr 5, 2007)

Should fit fine i can fit my specs into a mid tower case and still have nice air flow so you sould be goo to go


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

your "stuff" will fit guaranteed


here is some info >>>> review it / I think you will find it helpful


The purpose of this thread is to demonstrate an easy way to test your system prior to complete assembly. If you take the time to bench test your build prior to full assembly you will save yourself hordes of time in troubleshooting a faulty component. 

The most efficient way to minimize lost time is assemble each part one piece at a time until operational stability is proven. The bench build is especially useful when troubleshooting a previously assembled system that has begun to show quirky instability problems, possibly caused by a case short or other similar problem which is hard to detect in an occupied case assemby.

Another major benefit to the bench build is the up-close inspection this method offers you, many times I have torn down a flaky system, bench assemble the parts and notice a burn spot, or debris in the video card slot, small plastic chip type debris has been found in the main motherboard connector which prevents full contact of all the pins in the main connector, another common discovery upon up-close visual inspection is burnt pins in the main connector or cpu power connector on the motherboard.

*Here we will get started with the steps of bench building & testing.* only the bare essentials here, no cd-rom drives, hard drives, floppy drives etc



A) Place the motherboard on top of a non-conductive surface. I personally favor the motherboard box itself as it allows the video card riser to ride past the bottom surface of the motherboard, this is an important consideration (see black arrow)


B) Install the CPU into the motherboard, here is an often made mistake, many fellas want to assemble the cooler heat/sink mounting frame to the motherboard prior to inserting the CPU, however after market coolers such as the Zalman 9500 frame stop the cpu lever from swinging open enough to open the socket lever to insert the cpu. 
Therefore install the CPU into the motherboard cpu socket before mounting the heat sink frame. Make sure you align the *golden arrow* on the cpu die perimeter with the orientation mark on the motherboard socket (see manual)

C) Install the CPU heatsink / Fan combo and connect the fan wire to the CPU fan header on the motherboard, this is a very important step, many motherboards will not fire if the cpu fan is not activated, at the very least the cpu temps will rise immediatley and cause a thermal auto shutdown.

D) Insert one stick of memory; see motherboard manual for specific slot to be occupied for single stick operation, some motherboards will not fire up unless these rules are followed. Please adhere to the single stick memory install until we have achieved the "*first*" successful bios screen post.
Often times memory incompatibilites will cause a system not to post, these problems can be quickly identified if you install only one stick for our first post screen goal! (seldom does proven incompatible memory fail to start a system when single stick occupied)
Later in our bench testing we will go after the second post screen, then we can install the second stick, if you have a memory incompatability it will then show the dilemma withouth further loss of time!

E) Place the PSU on the bench and connect the motherboard *main *connector (20 pins or 24 pin) If your PSU uses a 20 + 4 connector (most units use this now) you will either leave the detachable four pin in place for a 24 pin main connector motherboard or you will detach the snap lock four pin from the 24pin connector to reduce the main connector to a 20 pin configuration.
Next step is attach the 4 pin square looking cpu power plug (some boards have an eight pin cpu power plug) make sure when inserting the four pin cpu power plug you "hear" the snap of the positive lock of the clip. 
Many fellas make the common error of trying to use the detachable four pin connector from the 20+4 motherboard connector to power the CPU this does NOT work you must use the *CPU power plug*

F) Install the video card and the video card dedicated power plug if the card needs such a power plug. Make sure the video card riser extends past the bottom of the motherboard surface (see pic w/black arrow above)

G) Connect a keyboard and mouse to the motherboard. Connect a monitor to the video card, verify the monitor has power active. Connect the PSU power plug into the wall socket.

H) You have two options to start the system, you can assemble the test platform next to the case and just simply bring the case switch wires over to the motherboard as I have done in the picture below and use the button on the case for system activation. (see blue arrow)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Or you can use a small flat bladed screwdriver to just touch the two pins on the motherboard header, these are the same two pins that normally get occupied by the *PWR Switch * on the motherboard connector header. Simply touch those two pins together for about two seconds and then pull the screw driver away, it should fire up. If not check the switch on the back of the PSU to make sure the PSU switch is on?

at this point in the test you should see the post screeen ????? ray: if not; power off the system, inspect everything step by step for accuracy and try again, if still no joy. :3-smash: 

Just kidding; swap memory sticks and try again ? 

Things to check when the power is activated:

1) Does the CPU fan spin at start-up ?

2) are there any LED lights that are lit on the motherboard when the PSU is connected with the power active in the PSU ?

3) does the video card fan spin ?

4) when the power is active to the system on the bench does the monitor show a yellow or green stand-by light (next to the monitor power button)

Once you get to a post screen I advise you hang there for about half an hour in the bios screen and monitor CPU temps and get your bios settings configured while you are waiting out your temperature monitoring. Set the data & time if this is a new build, boot priority, etc




Now that you have the core components of the Motherboard, CPU, Video Card, two sticks of memory, Power Supply, Keyboard, Mouse & Monitor working; next we proceed to adding Cd-rom drive, Hard Drives, Floppy Drives and the Operating System. All components are added one at a time and verified working. If you build three systems you will receive one new dead part, guaranteed! Thats why installing one variable at a time will save you alot of grief in identifying that culprit when the reaper comes knocking.



in photo above the hard drive is active, floppy drive & cd-rom drive (dont forget jumper pin settings on your drives) and if the bios doesnt detect your drives, then you cant go any further with this process, you must correct that immediately, the bios must recognise your devices before you can use them at all! *No drivers* whatsoever have to be dealt with at this stage!
If you look closely at the monitor the hard drive is being formatted during the OS install.


Now that all components have been verified and the OS is installed, we can stuff all the "guts" into the case knowing that everything is operational, so if there are any problems we know we made the problems while installing into the case. *One word of advice, make sure when you install the motherboard stand offs in the case you only use the motherboard mounting holes which have a silver ring around the hole, you DONT use the holes in the motherboard which dont have the silver ring around the perimeter of the hole!
Its very important that none of the metal surfaces on the bottom of the motherboard touch the case surface or you will create a nasty motherboard short!* This is a very common mistake which will drive you crazy!



if you encounter any difficulties with this material or need additional help, please start your own thread in the "Motherboard" section of the Hardware Forum. Feel free to Private Message (PM) me if needed.

Enjoy and hope it goes smoothly for you :spinning:


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## Nik00117 (Jan 8, 2007)

On top of everyones else advice i'll add in my .02 cent which i've gathered from a few years of building/working at PC shops.

1. Remember the mobo mounters, make sure the mobo is not in full contact with the case. Your case will come with screws that you screw into the case and mount the mobo on top. Failure to do so=wasted cash.
2. Work slowly and carefully ramming a screw driver through a mobo only costs cash. And its balant abuse and most companies won't allow you to return it.
3. Do not ever EVEN SO MUCH AS PLUG IN A PC WITHOUT A HSF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I cannot tell you how many times poeple have come in and gone "I was building my PC and booted it up and it didn't work...." all the while they have their HSF laying off the side and I go "Was that on?" general reply in this case was "No"

Everyone else covered everything else. But the mobo mounters imho are the biggest mistake first time builders make. working carefully, well some do without being told cause they are scared ****less they might blow something up, and well HSF is emphaized so much its not funny either.


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## Kalim (Nov 24, 2006)

luke1909: Get an Intel E6850/E6750 if I was you, if you still can. You really don't need a quad core yet. That'll beat the rest of the competition in most non-professional area's.

The P5N32-E-SLI Plus designation board is not a 680i SLI board BTW, and it's usually hailed as the best hybrid chipset performer after the 680i SLI boards. It's a very good and affordable offering to recover from their 680i SLI disasters; it's a mixture of nForce 650i SLI northbridge and an AMD Edition of the nForce 590 SLI southbridge. 

Although as others have stated, I will say that I don't see the reason why you'd buy an SLI specific board, if you won't be gaming and needing it.

There are man other boards which are more suitable for you.

The 680i SLI chipset is best for SLI, BIOS, memory latencies and quad core overclocking mainly. Best board for quad cores is EVGA 680i SLI revision A and the DFI LANPARTY UT ICFX3200-T2R/G I'm running. Too many quad core problems in most other boards, especially when overclocking.

Follow Joe's guide and you should be fine. :wink:


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