# New power supply, monitor stays in power save



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

My OEM power supply started smelling like burning a few days ago. It didn't go out and still works, it just smells bad. 

I purchased a new APower 480-Watt ATX power supply. It's got the same wattage and stats as the one OEM that lasted for 13 months.

The everything is running, except my NEC monitor stays in power save mode. I thought for a second I fried the GPU, but I hooked up my still-working old power supply and the monitor operated like normal.

I hooked up an old Dell monitor to the new power supply, and it also stayed in power save mode.

This has stumped me and everyone I've talked to.

Is this a faulty power supply or is there something I'm not doing?


----------



## Kalim (Nov 24, 2006)

Whats the video card?
Your powersupply may not be supplying the correct voltages to your video card as required. BTW how are you deciding that the monitor is going into power saving mode? For instance does the monitor power LED change color from green to orange? Green is generally "_On and receiving signal_" whereas orange is usually "_On without signal_".

You shouldn't be looking to the wattage supplied but on the 12v rails realistically.


----------



## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

dells before the P4 were propriatary wired
aopen is not a quality supply and may be supplying less output than the previous one
when you change the power supply it is best not replace but to upgrade
check that you connected the aux power plug to the m/b and the card if required
if you can use a multimeter check it out
http://www.techsupportforum.com/har...-tricks/65936-troubleshooting-multimeter.html
ask for a replacement


----------



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

The monitor's LED light stays at orange.

Everything's been connected to the motherboard and in regards to the connection to the video card, I've used multiple different connections just to see if it was a faulty outlet. Everyone produced the same results.

My video card is a GeForce 7800 GS Xtreme that I purchased new in June 2006.

Here is the link to the power supply I ordered. Practically identical to the OEM one I had for 13 months. A friend of mine's OEM supply burnt out after 1 month. He bought a similar one for $20 that has worked ever since, so I decided to do the same. Since I guess now would be a good time to learn about power supplies a little bit, any recommendations on what I should get?

Would it be a good idea to hook up an older video card that doesn't require a power connection to the PSU and see if it runs then?


----------



## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

that may have run a windows 98 computer but it is not going to run yours for long even with a lower quality card
it only has 16a on the 12v line
agp needs a min of 18a
pcie needs a min of 24a
a quality supply will set you back around the $100 mark
http://www.techsupportforum.com/showthread.php?t=107466


----------



## Kalim (Nov 24, 2006)

To be honest with you theres not a chance of that running your PC as dai mentioned, and you'll end up damaging components with heavy losses and feeble performance. Have a read of the Power Supply Selection guide as linked above by dai, which states what is done nowadays to "dupe" individuals and cause them subsequent losses. It provides you excellent advice by pro's and testers who do this day in day out.


----------



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

Alright, I sent the APower PSU back and decided I'd try to find the best thing locally since I can get a refund (and based on the prices I've seen for it online, looks like I paid about $60 too much) than go through the hassle of ordering online again.

I picked up an Echo Star 580-Watt and made sure to ask if the +12v rail was at least 18a. It is 19a. Anyways, I hooked it up and at first the monitor did not come on and stayed in power save with the orange LED on the monitor as usual. However, I played around with the AGP connection and made sure everything was snug. When I flipped it back on, the monitor actually came on and displayed the startup. However, at the point where it usually determines the system's RAM, it just stopped. Nothing flipped off. Everything on the screen stayed the same. Everything in the computer kept running. The keyboard worked. It just wouldn't clock the RAM and stopped. I turned it off and played with the cord again, and it went back to the monitor staying in power save. 

After that, I disassembled the entire computer since it was in need of a good cleaning anyways. I hooked it all back up, made sure everything was cleaned up. I made sure all connections were made and snug. It continued to stay in power save mode.

What's so weird about this is when my APower PSU on Thursday night wouldn't work, I hooked up my old, still-working-but-smells-bad OEM supply and everything worked fine. I haven't tried hooking it up again because I don't want to risk damaging anything.

Am I just making bad calls on PSUs? I'm trying to learn more about PSUs, and I guess I'm just having to pay my dues.

All of this is just frustrating for me. A friend of mine's power supply totally burned up to the point back in July 2005 that it stunk up the whole house for 30 minutes. It completely went out and wouldn't turn back on. He just picked up a new one locally much like his other one for about $70, plugged it up, it worked with no problem, and he's had zero problems since. And I caught mine before it even went out, and have gone through two unsuccessful PSUs.

If it matters, this is my motherboard/CPU and my video card is linked in a previous post up above. If anyone is positive that I'm just making bad PSU choices, can someone recommend me based on that motherboard a good one that's not over $100? I appreciate all the help.


----------



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

Also, these are the rails on my OEM 480W PSU that worked for 13 months:

*+3.3v*: 28A
*+5v*: 38A
*+12v*: 17A
*-12v*: 0.8A
*-5v*: 0.5A
*+5vsb*: 2A


----------



## Kalim (Nov 24, 2006)

GeForce 7800 GS graphics card: NVIDIA recommends ideally a 400 watt power supply with 20 ampere minimal on the 12 volts rails.

If the PSU cannot cope...

* bad 3D performance
* crashing games
* spontaneous resetting PC
* erratic display behavior
* freezes during gameplay
* PSU overload can cause it to break down
* fry/damage your mobo

There's many PSU's above $60 below $100 that are very good for your needs too. If you read the PSU selection guide, see the manufacturers and models supported here and look for one of those. You'll have the option to return PSU you've just purchased aswell.


----------



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

Does any of what I've told you sound like my motherboard has been damaged in anyway?


----------



## speedster123 (Oct 18, 2006)

The power supply you chose for your system is rated low. 
Under close inspection, do you notice any leaking or mis-shaped capacitors on the mainboard? The power supply could have damaged it.


----------



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

On the board of the original OEM supply, yes, the capacitors were leaking. 

Last night I did a double-thorough check to see if anything like that happened to the motherboard and I could not find any sign of capacitor leak or any leakage from the OEM PSU board onto anything outside of it.

For the record, this morning I hooked up an old GeForce3 Ti 200 video card and it didn't work.


----------



## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

can you see the bios if not try a cmos reset


----------



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

Nope, no BIOS. So I guess I'll try a CMOS reset, something I've never really done before.

How do I clear CMOS if that part of my motherboard only has 2 pins? Everything I've read says to move the jumper on 1-2 to 2-3 or 60 seconds and then put it back. But my motherboard only has 2 pins.

My motherboard's manual says this word-for-word:

*CLR_CMOS (Clear CMOS)*
You can clear the motherboard CMOS with the jumper to return your system to its initial status. To prevent improper usage, the jumper does not include the jumper plug. If you wish to use the Clear CMOS function, please short circuit the 1-2Pin.

It then illustrates the two pins with the two pins dark, saying Short : Clear CMOS and the two pins lightened, saying Open : Normal.

Do I just stick a jumper on the pins with the power unplugged for 60 seconds and then remove it?


----------



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

Also, it currently does not have a jumper at all, but I have two spare ones.

There is a very tiny black piece of plastic that slides to the bottom over the two pins.


----------



## Kalim (Nov 24, 2006)

Yes that is what is done i.e. move pins from current position of #1 and #2 to #2 and #3, leave for a few minutes and then replace back. Or you could just remove the power supply to the system and then take out the battery, leave it out for about 20-30 minutes and then replace it back in. The tiny black plastic sleeves are the jumpers here. They need to be slid over the #2 and #3 pins to clear CMOS if that method is chosen.

Note: _Make sure to have grounded yourself as ESD (electrostatic discharge) can destroy your motherboard and other electrical components._

The signs of leakage will need to be checked on your motherboard capacitors here, around the CPU especially. Look for bulging and leaking capacitors.


----------



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

But, I don't have three pins. I only have two on mine.


----------



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

Removing the battery for 30 minutes didn't solve anything.


----------



## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

with 2 pins you either put a jumper on them for a few secs or touch them witha small screwdriver after disconecting the power plug from the wall socket and removing the battery


----------



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

Resetting the CMOS through plugs and the battery didn't work.

I seriously just think my motherboard is screwed.


----------



## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

well it souds like the psu took out the m/b when it went
does the standby light glow on the m/b
are the pins where the power plug goes into the m/b showing any sign of discolouration


----------



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

The motherboard does not have any LED lights on it and there is no discoloration around any of the power pins.


----------



## Kalim (Nov 24, 2006)

Are you sure you don't see any sign of LED's light up, any sounds on bootup - from the front of your case?

If you attach a device such as a keyboard, do the LED's light on on system powerup?


----------



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

Yes, the keyboard lights come on, but the num lock LED does not flip on again and stay on like usual.


----------



## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

set it up out of the case with
cpu
video
ram speaker


----------



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

Well, a new development. 

I did set up the motherboard outside of the case, placing it on one of my college textbooks that was thoroughly cleaned before hand and made sure no metal was anywhere near touching it.

I hooked up nothing but the PSU to the motherboard, the CPU, the video card, and the internal speaker.

Nothing turned on when the power switch was pressed. At all. I even hooked up a keyboard (yes, with all the power off and the cord disconnected) to see if the keyboard's LEDs would come on. They faintly did when I flipped the power supply on but still nothing turned on.

Am I to assume the motherboard was on the way to biting the dust and finally did?


----------



## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

don't use the case switch,start it by touching the 2 pins with a small scewdriver for a fraction of a second


----------



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

Ah God, I'm such a putz. I knew I was forgetting something.

Anyways, yeah, I tapped it with the screwdriver and the machine flipped on. CPU fan and GPU fan were spinning, but the monitor remained in standby mode and nothing came on the screen.


----------



## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

did you get the single post beep
try a cmos reset with it out of the case


----------



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

Resetting CMOS via the mb pins and the battery being taken out for 30 minutes with the mb out of the case didn't change anything. Monitor still stays in power save.


----------



## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

can you get a local store to test the m/b


----------



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

More than likely. There are two local computer stores around here.


----------



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

Supremely HUGE new development.

Alright, after doing a thorough cleaning of the GPU unit on the board once again with a can of air, my computer now comes on and gets to the startup screen where I can hit DEL to enter BIOS. It works both inside and outside of the case.

The problem is, I can't. On the screen, it gets to this:
*<CPUID:OF41 Patch ID:0000>*

Once that comes up, I can't hit DEL to go into BIOS. 

Where do I go from here?


----------



## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

now that it is starting reset the cmos and then try entering the bios


----------



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

Clearing CMOS through the jumpers and taking out the battery for 30 minutes didn't do anything and kept me stuck at the same screen.

I took a picture of where I get stuck at. When the computer starts up, it shows the stats of the video card in the upper left. Then I get taken to this screen. This is exactly how it looks when it comes up. Text doesn't gradually show up and stop. When that screen comes up, that's what is there immediately.

At that screen, hitting DEL to go into BIOS doesn't do anything. The keyboard responds to my presses of num, caps, and scroll lock. It just doesn't take me into BIOS.


----------



## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

try holding down the inset key and keeping it held down start the computer


----------



## Kalim (Nov 24, 2006)

When you booted with the mobo out of the case and it booted but stayed on standby, did you connect the keyboard?

You could also try not connecting the k/board to see if it gets passed the POST screen that way, although POST registers stating that there's no problem.

Just aside, from the BIOS string it looks like your BIOS/CPU/Mobo is 

CPUID: 0F41 and 6A69Y is: *Award v6.00 - Socket 478 Intel Celeron 3.06GHz i845PE *

G0 is: *Gigabyte*

Possibly one of these:


> GA-8PE667 - GA-8PE667 Ultra - GA-8PE667 Pro - GA-8PEMT4 - GA-8PE667 Ultra 2 - GA-8PE800 - GA-8PE800 Pro - GA-8PE800 Ultra - GA-8PE800-L - 8I845PE-RZ - 8I845PE-RZC - GA-8PE800 Pro-R


----------



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

Holding down Insert while booting and attempting to boot with no keyboard in place left me stuck at the same picture I posted earlier.


----------



## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

try another keyboard if yours is wirelesss try a wired one


----------



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

My original keyboard is wired. I tried two other keyboards. Same results. Stuck at that screen.


----------



## Kalim (Nov 24, 2006)

Have you ever flashed the GPU BIOS?

Maybe you can troubleshoot the HDD here- link another known working one to see how far that goes.


----------



## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

see if there is a bios update available


----------



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

I have not flashed the GPU BIOS.

Checking with the motherboard website, the last BIOS update for that board was in 2004, so no updated one.

I am about to try the hard drive suggestion.


----------



## AnEternalEnigma (Jan 5, 2007)

I hooked up two known working HDDs and got stuck at the same screen.


----------



## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

see if it will boot from the xp cd


----------

