# 1993 toyota celica GT 2.2



## donvanmeterjr (Dec 1, 2011)

After I warm the car up and then shut it off it doesn't start for 5-15 minutes. I replaced cat, 02 sensor, distributor, ignitor,, battery, main computer,pcv valve, egr valve and fix some less than perfect wire connection also had starter checked and alternator checked. Car runs great till I shut it off then takes 5-15 minutes to start. I'm trying to pass the emissions test, but I get pushed out when it would start right up.


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

Hi donovanmeterjr

2 Questions.

1) Is it the 5SFE engine? 

2) Are you getting any codes ?


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## donvanmeterjr (Dec 1, 2011)

Yes it is and no codes at all. Just changed the main engine relay and it seems to start. Ran it for 50 minutes and shut it off and it started without waiting for 15 minutes:smile:


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

All the 5SFE engines have a hard start problem, its a common complaint on those engines after driving for several minutes and then the engine simply doesn't fire when it sits. The problem is a coil that is misfiring, if you look around the area to where the coil is sometimes its cracked. You can see there is visible burn scoring from where the spark is arcing. If you don't see any visible cracks test it with a multimeter to see that it falls into specs. 


post back your findings.


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## donvanmeterjr (Dec 1, 2011)

I replaced the distributor twice which contains the coil inside with brand new ones, but I will check anything. Also I just tried to pass emission test again and failed the nox part. Should be below 2.5 I was at 5.4 any ideal what causes this ? I replaced the cat, 02 sensor ignitor. pcv valve. distributor.some relays. egr valve vacuum me valve and the computer.


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

Look at your emissions diagram under the hood is there an anti-pollution pump or a purge solenoid ?


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## donvanmeterjr (Dec 1, 2011)

no,I don't see any on the diagram


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

The anti-pollution diagram on your car has a PCV valve (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) it takes all unburned gas and redirects it to be re-burned. If its blocked or not functioning the NOx builds up in the crankcase pretty fast. You will need to check it if it works. 


On the diagram there is also a modulator valve that connects to the EGR, the filter in the modulator has to be cleaned out once in a while when it comes to emission testing. The modulator plays a huge role when it comes to EGR operation, and I'm suspecting all of your problem lies there. You will need a vacuum gage to test the whole emission system including the BVSV valve. 

The test is a little extensive on your model engine so if your ready to do it let us know.


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## donvanmeterjr (Dec 1, 2011)

Ok I'm ready to give it a whirl. My last emission test results were: HC .15 allowed 1.0 , CO .40 allowed 12.0, NOX 5.47 allowed 2.5. I had failed in all areas until I changed the cat and EGR valve. Car runs great better than it has since I owned it.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Make sure the EGR valve is working, at an idle if opened the engine should stall.


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

Here we go; 


First thing to do is locate the modulator and take a look at the filter thats inside it, if its dirty use compressed air to clear it out. Next take a vacuum gage and with a T connector place it between the EGR and the BVSV. ( The BVSV is located somewhere on the engine screwed on like a temp switch but with vacuum hoses on it instead) 

Start the engine and make sure that the engine does not idle rough, if the engine runs smooth it signifies that the EGR is closed (if not its opened..not good). Next thing to do is locate your fuse fuse box next to the driver side tower and with a jumper connect the terminals TE1 and E1. (See pic1 for pin-outs) 


With engine temperature still below operating specs (A/T below 140F - M/T below 131F) with engine RPM at 2500 your vacuum gage should read zero. This test tells you that the BVSV valve is restricting EGR flow during cold engine condition. If any readings are detected replace the BVSV valve. 

Next, warm up the engine until it reaches operating temperature, hold the RPM's at 2500 the vacuum gage should now give you a typical reading of 3 inches of vacuum (give or take). This test verifies proper low vacuum signal going to the EGR at light loads. 


The next test is to verify high engine load, connect the R port of the modulator valve (See pic2) directly to manifold vacuum. Bring the engine RPM's to 2500 the engine should be running rough and your vacuum gage will give you a reading of 13 inches of vacuum. This test verifies high signal vacuum to the EGR when the R port overrides the back pressure modulator. 


When all the tests are done disconnect the jumpers and place all vacuum hoses back to its original position. 



post back your findings.


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## donvanmeterjr (Dec 1, 2011)

ran into a little problem. the hoses on the BVSV valve one goes to the purge on the canister and the other goes to the r on the manifold. the filter had a yellow crusty stuff on it. I had to take a small layer of the filter because I couldn't get it to come off.


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

You're on to something don, that yellow crusty stuff could be antifreeze stop leak that was used at one point in time solidifying inside the BVSV and modulator. Look carefully at your vacuum diagram under the hood, make sure nothing has been by-passed. 


post back the results of your tests.


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## donvanmeterjr (Dec 1, 2011)

All vacuum lines are in the right place. The readings are what you stated they should be. The engine did run rough when I connected the r side of egr to the manifold line but the reading averaged 13. I also noticed the main cooling fan doesn't come on only the small one does. car runs with in normal temps. I did clean the filter on the modulator and I got a bvsv valve from the junk yard because when I tried to pull off the vacuum lines the nipples came off.


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

After replacing the BVSV and cleaning the modulator filter have you seen any significant changes to the problem ?


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## donvanmeterjr (Dec 1, 2011)

car has been running great like it has been, but when I turn on the air it doesn't cut down like it has in the past. Planning on taking it for a recheck at the emission place I will post the results when done.


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## donvanmeterjr (Dec 1, 2011)

Just had car rechecked HC went from .15 to .11 out of 1.0 allowed, CO .40 to .34 out of 12.0 allowed, NOX 5.47 to 5.11 still failed by more than double the 2.5 allowed:neutral:


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

Don, 

Remove the EGR valve check for any carbon deposits within the EGR gas pathway and where it seats, you can use a scraper tool to remove the carbon. Whats happening now is that the EGR is opening but the flow rate of exhaust gases are too low and the NOx gasses are building up. 


What you can do is run seafoam to break any deposits trapped inside, but make sure that the gas pathways are absolutely clear of debris.



Question: Does the PCV valve work properly ?


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## donvanmeterjr (Dec 1, 2011)

checked PVC valve it works. I Did get an error code of 25 when I was driving it. First time that came up


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

Code 25 is the O2 sensor registering a lean mixture, which means that the sensor is not sweeping. On celicas the switching from lean to rich is fast, what the switching does is tell the computer the time base as to how long the injectors should stay on/off. But on your first post you already replaced the O2 sensor, so the lean condition can only come from a vacuum leak or a bad ground to the sensors. 


Question: Is the color to the ground wires for the sensors brown ?


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## donvanmeterjr (Dec 1, 2011)

Decided to check 02 sensor my son put on, It was for use after the cat not before which we needed,so i changed it. Also found a vacuum switch on the back bottom left side of the motor. It wasn't working. Don't see it on the diagram under hood, but shows it inn the book diagram. I will change this also.


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