# Replacing 1997 Subaru Outback Plugs and Wires



## anicolet (Feb 27, 2009)

So I took my 1997 Subaru Outback (2.5L) into the shop to get the knock sensor replaced, and the mechanic said there were codes for 3 cylinders misfiring. He said the coils are good, offers to replace wires and plugs for $350 (US$). I didn't have the money at the time, and thought I'd look into doing it myself. Turns out I think buying the parts on my own will only cost about $100. Problem is, it looks like the plugs are really hard to get to on this engine, does anyone have any experience with this and can offer practical advice? Also, do I need a torque wrench or is a plain socket set good enough, as long as I get the plugs tight without going crazy on 'em? Thanks!


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## bruiser (Jul 30, 2005)

I've never seen the engine in an Outback, but you don't need a torque wrench to change plugs. 

Would it be easier to get to the plugs from underneath?


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## Nexxtech (Nov 29, 2008)

Are you serious? $$$. In my opinion a torque wrench is not necessary. They will come out. Putting them back in should be given caution not to over tighten. I never worked on a 97 Subaru but I have replaced plugs on Volkswagens and V6 Voyager vans. Some dismantling of other parts such as air breather, etc may be required but sounds like you can handle this job. BOLWT. PS. Once the plugs seat and tension is felt turn 3/4 turn and be sure you start your plug threads properly to avoid cross threading.


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## anicolet (Feb 27, 2009)

Right on, thanks for the advice. Follow-up question- I read elsewhere about putting anti-seize lubricant on the threads and spark plug boot protectant film on the boot where it pops into the wire. Does WD-40 do the same thing as "anti-seize lubricant" and is spark plug boot protector really necessary?

-Don't know nearly enough about cars.


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## Nexxtech (Nov 29, 2008)

I like your approach. Good questions. Tonight you will learn as I did. WD 40 will work fine, easy on the amount you spray. These grease kits they include are fine but even WD 40 seals your ignition system from water and damp conditions better than any. Great conductor. Let us know.


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## bruiser (Jul 30, 2005)

I'd definitely use the anti-seize on the plugs.


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## patriki (Feb 27, 2009)

Hey Guys!

Hope I'm not too late on this topic - I'm a Subaru gearhead.

Doing plugs on the EJ series engines is for sure a bit more involved then let's say on an Inline engine. However, for what its worth, take your time with it and do it at a place where you can leave your car overnight if need be (like your own driveway, not some gas station parking lot).

To get the job done right, get a proper spark plug socket, an extension and a ratchet. Then you're set! You will likely have to remove the air intake out to get easier access to the plugs, no biggie! Just make a note of where goes what so that you know how to put it back together. 

In the end, it looks very intimidating and harder than it really is. As I said, if you take your time with it you will get it done. Takes a pro a good 30-45 minutes to do this so don't expect this to be a very quick job. 

Just be thankful your Legacy isn't turboed! Those engines are a bit bigger and thus sit even closer to the rails and have even less clearance to work with!


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## anicolet (Feb 27, 2009)

Awesome, thanks for the advice Patriki!


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