# Briggs & Stratton 130902 Ignition Coil



## steppinthrax

I have a 5HP 130902 5HP Rotary Tiller Engine. The ignition coil is bad. I removed the flywheel cover and igintion coil. However, there are two other wires that are leading from the coil and go under the flywheel DIRECTLY into the engine casing. The wires are not removable and seem to be part of the ignition coil. I'm looking at the ignigion coil online (397358), but none of them have any other wires coming out other then the spark plug wire. So my question is what are those wires leading to, and how will I remove the entire ignition coil?


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## SABL

How old is your tiller?? Some older models have breaker points under the flywheel.


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## K-B

Those are the wires going to the points & condenser. If you're replacing the coil with a solid state module, just snip those wires off clean and forget about them. If you're replacing the coil with a point ignition one (same as the original) you'll have to remove the flywheel and disconnect the wires there.


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## steppinthrax

K-B said:


> Those are the wires going to the points & condenser. If you're replacing the coil with a solid state module, just snip those wires off clean and forget about them. If you're replacing the coil with a point ignition one (same as the original) you'll have to remove the flywheel and disconnect the wires there.


I actually have the engine mostly disasembled. I was given this tiller by someone. I believe it was made in the 60s or 70s. I have the engine apart, except the flywheel and starter clutch. I need to go down to the HW store tommorow to pick up a set of pliers to remove the starter clutch. I have a puller to remove the flywheel. 

Anyway, if this is a points and condensor system, can I simply remove all that crap and replace the ignition coil with an upgraded one that dosen't require points? How does this work? What ignition coils are sold state? Also are there any disadvantages of removing the points and condensor system?


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## K-B

How did you determine that the ignition coil is faulty, anyhow? Considering that this engine has points, if you're not seeing a spark there's a good chance that those simple need to be cleaned or replaced.

Briggs & Stratton makes a conversion kit to change an engine to solid state "bypassing" the points & condenser. Part number 394970. However this makes use of your existing coil, so if that is truly bad you'd still need a new coil. You should be able to put on a Magnetron coil from a later model engine, I'll have to find some info on which one will work. Can you post the Type and Code numbers off the engine?


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## steppinthrax

K-B said:


> How did you determine that the ignition coil is faulty, anyhow? Considering that this engine has points, if you're not seeing a spark there's a good chance that those simple need to be cleaned or replaced.
> 
> Briggs & Stratton makes a conversion kit to change an engine to solid state "bypassing" the points & condenser. Part number 394970. However this makes use of your existing coil, so if that is truly bad you'd still need a new coil. You should be able to put on a Magnetron coil from a later model engine, I'll have to find some info on which one will work. Can you post the Type and Code numbers off the engine?


Hello

Model 130902

Type 0258-01

Code 73032706

I know about the conversion kit. However, after doing some research I was told you have to send the flywheel into B&S to get repolarized???


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## jrrdw

I've converted tons of these engines over with the snap in unit. I've never sent the flywheel anywhere and they work fine. You will have to change the flywheel key, it should come in the kit, mine all ways have. The new key will be made of slightly harder metal, you need it because the snap in module advances the ignition timing 2 degrees.

Just leave the points in so you don't have to plug the plunger hole. You will need to leave enough wire on the coil that lead to the points to hook up to the module. It's a very easy swap, and the engine will run better.


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## K-B

No, you wouldn't have to have the flywheel re-polarized for that model. 
But after looking up that model, I would recommend going with a 397358 ignition coil, this is the Magnetron solid state type and would be the safest way to make sure that everything will work properly (unless you determine that the original coil is in fact good). It will not utilize the existing points & condenser, but it is not necessary to remove them, either. This instructions included with the coil say to remove the flywheel, however this is just so you can snip the points wire as close to the source as possible.


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## steppinthrax

K-B said:


> No, you wouldn't have to have the flywheel re-polarized for that model.
> But after looking up that model, I would recommend going with a 397358 ignition coil, this is the Magnetron solid state type and would be the safest way to make sure that everything will work properly (unless you determine that the original coil is in fact good). It will not utilize the existing points & condenser, but it is not necessary to remove them, either. This instructions included with the coil say to remove the flywheel, however this is just so you can snip the points wire as close to the source as possible.


So what your saying is if I buy this ignition coil I can do away with the points and condenser. However, if my current ignition coil is good would I need 394970 to work with the existing ignition coil? I was comparing the prices on ebay with a new ignition coil v.s. the conversion kit. The new ignition coil I can get for 4 dollars more than getting the conversion kit. Seems like a wash to me considering getting the conversion kit would work on an old coil and have one more part that can go bad.


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## jrrdw

The main advantage to the Magnatron ignition coil is that it's self contained and no moving parts. The only wire you will need with the new coil is the kill switch, ground the wire tab on the coil and it stops making spark.

You still need to change the fly wheel key.


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## rayth

jrrdw said:


> I've converted tons of these engines over with the snap in unit. I've never sent the flywheel anywhere and they work fine. You will have to change the flywheel key, it should come in the kit, mine all ways have. The new key will be made of slightly harder metal, you need it because the snap in module advances the ignition timing 2 degrees.
> 
> Just leave the points in so you don't have to plug the plunger hole. You will need to leave enough wire on the coil that lead to the points to hook up to the module. It's a very easy swap, and the engine will run better.


 i have a briggs and statton 5 hp motor model130902 type 043901 code 76072610 im having ignition problems can you advice me the best way to go and how to do it in layman terms would be very thankfull thank you


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## Basementgeek

rayth:

Buy the kit. I am sure it comes with instructions. If you need more help, please start a new topic.

This two year post is closed.

BG


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