# A Decent Gaming Computer for under 800?



## computerish (Dec 27, 2010)

Hello all of you potentially helpful people. I really need to buy a new computer. I have all the accessories (monitor, mouse, etc) just need to get a new box and dice. Unfortunately I'm out of touch with today's technology. I've tried reading some reviews but they confuse the hell out of me.

I have $800. I'd prefer Intel CPU i5+. Aside from that I have no idea - motherboard, video card (especially video cards), RAM.

I'm going to buy the new comp when I get paid (in the next couple of days hopefully) so I'd appreciate a quick response... otherwise I'll end up buying a toster with an i5.



Thanks,

-somewhat computerish


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## computerish (Dec 27, 2010)

I should mention I've put together computers before including installing CPUs and all that so if it's cheaper to buy the parts individually let me know. For some reason I assume that systems that are already put together are discounted but maybe that's not the case.


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## gcavan (Aug 13, 2009)

If you are willing to build your own computer, that is definitely the way to go. Take a look at the $1000 Intel spec here. (It is actually much less than US$1000) . These tried and tested builds use top quality components. The video card could be swapped out for a 5700 series to drop the price another $50-100.

If you need to get under $800, then you may need to go with one of the AMD builds.


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## 723869 (Aug 2, 2010)

The best I could lower it to was:

-----------------------------------
CPU: Intel i5-760 - $204.99

MB: Asus P7P55D-E LX - $129.99

RAM: Mushkin 4GB (2x2GB) DDR3 1333 - $49.99

HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black 500GB 32MB Cache -$59.99

GPU: EVGA GTS 450 *--or--* Asus DirectCU GTS 450 *--or--* XFX HD 5770 *--or--* Zotac GTX 460 768MB - $139.99 / $144.99 / $169.99

Disk Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST - $19.99

PSU: Corsair 650TX - $89.99

Case: Antec Three Hundred Illusion - $69.99
-----------------------------------

_Total Cost:_ *$764.92 -- $794.92* (Not including shipping.)

Also, if you want an aftermarket heatsink, you'll have to factor that cost in, as well as an operating system version (if you don't have one) and any peripherals.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Where are you shopping?


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## Raylo (Feb 12, 2006)

You could save $50 on the mobo by using a Gigabyte GA H55M-S2V. Antec case is nice except the last 300 I used didn't have a 3.5" external slot. Had to get out the dremel and file to make an opening in one of the blank 5" cover plates to fit a memory card reader. That was a bit of a PITA. Not sure if the Illusion version suffers this same issue.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

the 5770 is a mcuh better video card than the GTS250



For my two cents I would not downgrade to an H55 chipset inlieu of the P55 to save $50.00 or so bucks (thats not really a big thing when you factor it in over the life span of the system IMHO)

if you need to stay strict to your budget than AMD is your friend, very near same performance for less money


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Raylo said:


> You could save $50 on the mobo by using a Gigabyte GA H55M-S2V. Antec case is nice except the last 300 I used didn't have a 3.5" external slot. Had to get out the dremel and file to make an opening in one of the blank 5" cover plates to fit a memory card reader. That was a bit of a PITA. Not sure if the Illusion version suffers this same issue.


I thought the last 300 I used came with a 3.5" adapter but I could be mistaken. If it's not included I assume it's because Floppy drives are pretty much obsolete. :4-dontkno


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Same thoughts as linderman on the GPU and the Mobo chipset for Intel.


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## computerish (Dec 27, 2010)

Thanks for the replies. So I've made a couple of alterations based on local availability, etc. Does this sound alright? 

...

CPU:  Intel i5-760 - $210

MB:  Asus P7P55D-E LX - $112

RAM: PQI 4GB Kit(2Gx2) DDR3 1333 RAM  - $49

HDD:  Seagate SATA 2TB HDD - $99

GPU:  ASUS 1GB 5770 PCI-E VGA Card $145

CASE/PSU: RAIDMAX Tornado with 500W PSU  - $84

TOTAL = $699 which leaves me some cash for a new version of Windows

...

I'm not sure if changing the brands of the graphics card and RAM compromises anything, though. Please let me know. Also is the case suitable?


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

The graphics card is decent, but the power supply is junk, look for a Seasonic, or Corsair unit at least 650w for that setup.


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## computerish (Dec 27, 2010)

How about a ''Coolermaster RC-690'' (149) or a ''A-Power Mars M2-3025 with 680W PSU'' (49) ?

I assume the A-Power one is too crappy?

There aren't any Seasonic or Corsair available.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

The RC-690 is a case, A-Power I have no data on but at that price I'd say it's not a very good PSU.


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## computerish (Dec 27, 2010)

Actually I found it - the 650TX, but it's 147 just for the power supply!


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## computerish (Dec 27, 2010)

> Where are you shopping?


www.msy.com.au


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Where is this large world are you shopping, that sounds like a aussie price?


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

The Antec 620 is a seasonic based unit, only down side is if you ever should need to use the warranty rma process keep the purchase receipt in safe place you'll need it.
http://www.msy.com.au/product.jsp?productId=4950


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

yeah you aussies get flogged prices wise!


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## Raylo (Feb 12, 2006)

Floppy drive? What's that? ;-) But I still find it very convenient to have a nice multi memory card reader for digicams and whatnot, which are usually 3 1/2". I had a reader once (a Sony, I believe) that came with a 3 1/2" adapter and a trim plate to allow it to be installed in any 5" opening w/o using the factory trim plate. I wish I had got one of those that time since the 300 didn't have an adapter. Also, since 3 1/2" devices often come with their own adapters (mine did) the real issue was the case didn't have an opening for a 3 1/2" in any of the trim plates. That took some fiddling. 




Tyree said:


> I thought the last 300 I used came with a 3.5" adapter but I could be mistaken. If it's not included I assume it's because Floppy drives are pretty much obsolete. :4-dontkno


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## computerish (Dec 27, 2010)

Great. So I've almost got it all worked out. Thanks everyone.

Last question - 
What case should I use with the Antec 620?
Does it matter?

(Yes, it's an Australian price - but the AUD is pretty much the same as the USD these days so I didn't bother mentioning that...)


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

But for some reason the components are a lot higher even though your closer to where they're made

Any ATX case will work fro the supply.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

any MED atx or full atx case will work with your antec 620


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## computerish (Dec 27, 2010)

Okay slight problem.

The CPU I wanted isn't available.

I was planning on getting an i5-760 2.8 Ghz
Intel Core i5-760 2.8Ghz LGA 1156 CPU


So now I'm thinking of getting an i7-870 2.93 Ghz
Intel Core i7-870 2.93Ghz LGA1156 CPU


Is there much of a performance difference?

Will changing the CPU effect the RAM/ motherboard/ etc?

Need a quick response, buying the parts tommorow morning.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Motherboard and ram will remain the same.

It's not a huge difference, a little faster and the i7 will have hyper-threading for 8 logical cores(4 physical).


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

the extra $100.00 you will pay isnt worth it; shop else where for the 760


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## computerish (Dec 27, 2010)

> the extra $100.00 you will pay isnt worth it; shop else where for the 760


I suspected as much, so I opted for the i5-650.

The computer is built!

Thanks everyone. Particularly wrench and linderman. You guys have been a huge help. I ended up getting an i5-650 3.2Ghz, 4 Gig RAM, P55 motherboard, 2T SATA HDD, Antec 620 Gaming PSU, Antec "Two Hundred" Case + Asus 1 Gig 5770.

Everything is working beautifully except for the HDD.

When I first turned on the computer it said there was no valid boot drive and to insert a bootable media, so I swapped the SATA HDD for my ex-wife's old SATA HDD and it works fine... Windows booted up.

Maybe the HDD is busted? 

I checked all the cables three times, there are no jumper settings for this HDD, and another SATA works with the same cables and same ports... so I can't work it out... Any ideas before I go and return the hard drive?


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## Elvenleader3 (Jan 1, 2010)

Try your hard drive in the other computer, and see if it works.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Is there already a windows installation on the drive?


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