# Problem with windows 7 install and Asrock drivers install on Asrock z77 extreme 4



## TheBlitz (Sep 3, 2013)

Hello everyone, this is my first build and everything went fine until I try installing windows 7. So for me it gets past the starting windows screen and then it freezes on the setting your language and country screen. There is also no way out of this and I had to turn the computer off. Then I tried installing the CD that came with the mother board. It then say saying generate serial ATA driver Diskette? [Y/N]. At first I said yes and what came up was a screen that said the supported drive was not found: Floppy 1.44mb and USB drive! If I press no it just asks me to reboot. I have looked for solutions to this and haven't come across any that worked.


----------



## BIGBEARJEDI (Aug 8, 2012)

hi there:

complete specs on your system would help. troubleshooting a custom-build computer system that has thousands of different makes/models of components can be tricky to say the least. :whistling:

You should download and run SPECCY, and post the report here. 

Check your cables that they are in place and secure, and all your connections to the hard drive and your RAM modules are seated correctly. 

Are you using a Microsoft Windows7 licensed cd or a copy you borrowed from a friend? :angel:


Have you tested your hard drive? Is it new in anti-static bag when you got it? Or is it used from an older system you had? 

If you have a spare SATA hard drive, you can swap out with your existing SATA drive and try your Win7 load again. If it fails, you could have a Motherboard, RAM, or cable connection problem. :sad:

Answering some of these questions and posting your specs will help us to help you! :thumb:

BIGBEARJEDI


----------



## TheBlitz (Sep 3, 2013)

Well I doubt that there is a problem with my RAM. When I first started my computer it started beeping which meant the RAM was too lose, but I fixed that. It also registers my hard drive ad RAM on BIOS. I can run everything fine until it comes to that one screen for the drivers and the freeze for windows. I'm probably going to check out my wiring tomorrow. I also bought this windows legally. 

But here are my specs: 
Mobo: Asrock extreme 4 z77http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z77%20Extreme4/ 
RAM: Corsair Vengeance ddr3 16 gb Vengeance® 
Hard drive: 1tb Seagate Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 ST31000528AS 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive - Newegg.com 
CPU: Intel i7 3770


----------



## BIGBEARJEDI (Aug 8, 2012)

Thanks for your response. Registering of your Hard Drive and RAM by your BIOS do NOT qualify as running "diagnostics". I have many faulty hard drives and RAM modules that are seen by Motherboard BIOSes, that is a low-level functional check, like the link-lights that come on when you plug your ethernet cable into your network port. That link-light represents only layer1 connectivity and there are 6 more layers that still have to work with it! 

Windows Installs are difficult for home users, because they don't understand the complexity of the systems and components they are dealing with. And, because of the money aspect, they are usually on a tight budget, though in today's economy everyone is including Corporations. :facepalm:

You have 5 components to consider in this "equation", and they are the #1, Motherboard (or Main Board to use an older computer term); #2, RAM; #3, Video Card; #4, Hard Drive, and #5, Power Supply.

You didn't mention specs on #3 and #5; so I am left to guess.  Again, see my previous post for request to run *SPECCY* diagnostic programs and post results here. If you post partial specs, you will get partial help.

That's good you have a legal copy of windows; otherwise no one here will want to help you. :nono:

After you run the diagnostics, chances are you have several things to try, and there are instructions here on the forum to help you go through step-by-step troubleshooting. This link will help: How to Install Windows 7 for Beginners: 16 Steps (with Pictures).

What I would do, if you are in a hurry and this is your only computer **you didn't say** and you need it reinstalled right away; I would suspect the hard drive first, as it is one of the less expensive components. Try and borrow a new or slightly used, but known good hard drive from a friend or local computer expert and try reinstalling your Windows on that. You should be able to install on an 80GB SATA hard drive for Win7 no problem, I have done it; but 100GB or more is preferred. Based on your specs, you shouldn't need to install a hard drive driver during Win7 install, as it already should recognize your SATA drive with built in drivers. :rofl:

If your Motherboard is quirky it may demand a driver. One way around that is to use the SeaTools utility that came with the drive (many drives don't come with a disc anymore, only a piece of paper with the manufacturer's website link); see www.seagate.com. Download and run the "preparation to install windows" part of the utility. I would run both the Quick and Extended tests which will tell you the overall health of your drive. If you get any failures during either of those tests, you hard drive is damaged and must be replaced. :uhoh: You will never get Windows installed, as it probably has physical flaws on the platter surface which can not be remapped. That means it won't work in laymen's terms for Windows. :nonono:

If you prep the hard drive with SeaTools, the Windows installer will usually recognize the hard drive during the HAL portion of the Windows install, and you won't need install media (disk or flash drive or whatever). :thumb: If install still fails, go with my suggestion of trying to borrow an 80GB or bigger SATA drive for test purposes. That should install with your Windows disc. :dance: Once you know your Win7 will install on a different drive, you just replace your original and everything should work. :dance:

If it still fails, and you know for a fact that test hard drive is good, say because it came from a friend's computer that worked, or it's sealed and brand new in the anti-static bag, you may have a more severe problem such as an out-of-spec power supply not properly supplying the right voltages to your components including the RAM and Motherboard. Your local Computer Professional can test the Power Supply for you if you don't have a Multimeter or know how to use one. 

Also, even if your system worked with the components you now have, that doesn't mean that one or more of the components has since failed on you. That's not at all uncommon. I suggest you start with the hard drive first, because it causes better than 70% of the windows install failures I see here in my repair business.

Try my suggestions, and post your test results and we will get to the bottom of your problem and get your going again! :thumb: opcorn: 

Best,
BIGBEARJEDI


----------



## TheBlitz (Sep 3, 2013)

Can I run these programs using a flash drive because right now all I can access is BIOS. I also just have the integrated graphics for the motherboard and I have the Corsair Enthusiast series TX650 power supply Enthusiast Series


----------



## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Try setting the sata controller to IDE(legacy) mode and then retry the install see if that makes a difference.


----------



## TheBlitz (Sep 3, 2013)

Hey guys managed to get windows installed ends up i was connecting my wireless keyboard and mouse to the wrong USB. Then after installing windows I make another attempt at installing the drivers and it still pops up the same way and reboots either way. since I was able to install and run windows successfully this rules out any hardware failures. I'm starting to think that it actually wants me to install the drivers on a separate USB or floppy considering thats what happens when I install the driver. Anyone know if I need to get a usb to install the drivers or do i just not install the drivers that causes this issue/ does anyone have any fixes to this?


----------



## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Which drivers are giving you trouble the wireless KB or the Sata controller?


----------



## TheBlitz (Sep 3, 2013)

Well the wireless keyboard and mouse is fine, just plugged it into the wrong usb. I don't the sata controller is messed up because I was able to install windows successfully I'm just not sure whats wrong with the drivers.


----------



## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

What mode is the sata controller set to the bios IDE(legacy) or AHCI?


----------



## TheBlitz (Sep 3, 2013)

I tried going into IDE mode and the same thing came up. I'm starting to think that there might be a driver that my system isn't compatible with. As it is asking for a floppy/ separate usb.


----------



## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

That is a setting that ideally you would only change before installing Windows.
So the question is what mode is set at currently?


----------



## TheBlitz (Sep 3, 2013)

Well currently its in AHCI


----------



## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

If it's in AHCI and the system boots then there is a driver installed for it.


----------



## TheBlitz (Sep 3, 2013)

But i haven't been able to install the drivers?


----------



## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

The Sata driver has to be installed as Windows is installed it'll usually come on the Windows disk so that the installation package can "see" the hard drive to install Windows on.


----------



## TheBlitz (Sep 3, 2013)

ok so does that mean everything is fine and its just one of the drivers? Because if it came with windows disk then it must have installed with it properly. Otherwise I wouldn't be able to install windows without the hard drive.


----------



## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Is Windows installed and running now?

Are there any red or yellow call out flags in device manager?
(Start Orb type _Device Manager_ in the search box hit enter)


----------



## TheBlitz (Sep 3, 2013)

yeah it is 

this is from my laptop though, but my computer is running windows fine


----------



## TheBlitz (Sep 3, 2013)

Ok guys now whenever I try to boot up windows it turns to a black screen. This happened after I was installing a driver that was related to the VGA, but that froze, so how do I fix this problem now?


----------



## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Tap F8 while booting see if you can get into safe mode.

What brand and model laptop is this.


----------



## TheBlitz (Sep 3, 2013)

actually it ends up that for some reason I can only access my windows homescreen on HDMI. How do I change it to VGA. Note: this is a desktop. And I solved it drivers are installing fine.


----------



## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

What are you calling the Windows Home screen the desktop where all the icons and start orb are?

Do you have multiple monitors hooked up?
If so you'll need to change which one is the #1 monitor.


----------



## TheBlitz (Sep 3, 2013)

By windows homescreen I mean the desktop with all of the programs. I only use 1 monitor and for some reason it switches to hdmi instead of vga after the screen with the windows logo before the log in screen. Is there a setting I change or something?


----------



## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Is there anything hooked to the HDMI port?


----------



## TheBlitz (Sep 3, 2013)

yeah there is a cable


----------



## TheBlitz (Sep 3, 2013)

Ok guys, now I installed all of my drivers, yet my computer does not pick up my wifi router. Should I restart it and then see if its working?


----------



## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Yes after driver installs restarts are normal.

Is the HMDI/VGA issue settled?


----------



## MPR (Aug 28, 2010)

If you can't get a video output, press F8 and then select "Enable low resolution video." When the system boots, uninstall the non-working video driver and install the proper one for your video card or onboard video system. Note that you should not have a HDMI cable hooked up to your video card if not using it for a HDMI-capable monitor or you may not get a display on the VGA monitor.

To enable WiFi, follow the instructions that came with your adapter -- oftentimes there is a specific installation order that must be followed.


----------



## TheBlitz (Sep 3, 2013)

Yeah apparently my mobo only comes with ethernet, so I will have to get an adapter. But note I only have the onboard graphics at the moment and I can still switch to HDMI. Its just a bit annoying that it starts up in VGA and then I have to switch it. And do I still need to get an adapter even though I already have a router?


----------



## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

For WIFI yes either a add in card or USB adapter.

HDMI is digital so needs drivers(only usable after windows loads) to output a signal, the bios is analog output thus requiring VGA or DVI-I.


----------



## TheBlitz (Sep 3, 2013)

I think it switches to VGA because I put a password on the system so I have to put in a password before windows. But okay I guess I'll get the usb and then everything is set hopefully.


----------



## TheBlitz (Sep 3, 2013)

Guys should I get a card or a usb? some also say its just better to get another router.


----------



## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

How far away from the router is the PC?
If fairly close a USB adapter will work farther away a card with a external antenna.
I've been using these for wireless add in cards> Intel 2200BNHMWDTX1 PCI Express x1 Centrino Advanced-N 2200 for Desktop IEEE 802.11b/g/n Up to 300Mbps Wireless Data Rates - Newegg.com

If it's a windows password and not a bios password then the log in box would appear after windows starts to load and has all the hardware drivers loaded.


----------



## TheBlitz (Sep 3, 2013)

Thanks for all the help guys. Still have two questions 1. does my power supply fan need to be on 24/7, It doesn't appear to be on when I start up the computer or on the homescreen, but I have not tested this during load times or while playing games, or are there options to turn it on or off? I also think that I'm going to use a PCI card, but I dislike going back into my computer as it opens up more risk, but will there be that big of a difference between a pci or usb? Note: the router is about 20 to 30 ft away.


----------



## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

For that distance either will work but the add in card is the better route in my opinion.

What PSU brand and model are you using?
There are only a handful of high end units that I know of which have a connection to the motherboard to allow you to control the fan.


----------



## TheBlitz (Sep 3, 2013)

Ok I'm think of getting this adapter NETGEAR AC1200 Dual Band WiFi USB Adapter A6200 | Staples® . It runs faster than the majority of other usbs and cards, but does anyone know how far this thing goes. Everyone seems to think its fine, but might want to get a usb extension.


----------



## BIGBEARJEDI (Aug 8, 2012)

Hi there:

You didn't answer Wrench's question on Post #34: "How far away from the router is the PC??"  This will determine whether or not you need a PCI wireless or USB wireless adapter for your desktop. If you have a modern wireless router, name brand such as Cisco, Linksys, Netgear, Belkin (last 5 years) it will most likely be running 802.11n which will provide a circular broadcast radio signal radius of 300 ft. in any direction from the router itself. This is a 600 ft. diameter, but most people are concerned with the farthest distance a computer or laptop is from the broadcast source, the Wireless router itself, which is about 300 ft. :smile:

If the answer to Wrench's question is over 300 ft. away from your Wireless router, you'll definitely need the PCI card wireless. However, due to the construction of the home or apartment or building you are in, especially if you are in a multi-story home or building the radio signal is diminished by the type of materials used in the construction of your home. Specifically if your home was built between the 1940s-1970s, they often used metal allow "flashing" between floors and that material severely blocks or limits wireless radio signals. :frown:

If you are in a single story home or apartment building you shouldn't have much to worry about, especially if it was built after the 70s. If however, you are back on the East Coast where buildings can be 100-200 yrs. old, all bets are off, as many of those really old homes were reconstructed or remodeled with modern materials in the 20th century, but who knows what they use unless you did this yourself. :nonono:

Getting back to the wireless-N range, it's spec'd. at 300 ft. radius; but that's depending on the materials used in your home like I said above, and for most homes it's around 150-200 ft. radius practical. If you install the USB wireless adapter, and you are 150-300 ft. away from your wireless router; you should be getting 3 out of 5 bars on the wifi indicator in the taskbar->system tray on the lower right of your main windows desktop. If you don't, your Internet connection will be spotty and so will your surfing! :facepalm:

If this is the case you have 2 choices: #1: switch to a PCI wireless card as Wrench suggests, or #2: you can buy a 15 ft. usb extension cord and plug that into the usb port on your desktop, and plug the usb adapter into the extension cord. Run that up to the highest point on the wall or the ceiling in the room where your desktop computer is currently installed. Radio signals work like heat, they radiate to the highest point in the room; higher gives you better reception, lower is worse. Just how warm air rises and cold air falls. :wink:

If you still can't 3 bars or better using the USB adapter with the 15 ft. extension, you will have to either change to the PCI card, which has a more powerful radio receiver inside, or you can try Choice #3: purchase an External WiFi Signal Booster, which takes the radio signal you have from your wireless router, and takes it in and boosts it back out.  So, if you put the Signal booster about 150 ft. away from your wireless router, everything in your home on the back side of the booster (150-300ft) gets a stronger radio signal, more bars, more reception, better quality Internet. :dance:

Hope that helps! 

P.S. Your friend is right they just came out this year with a new wireless standard 802.11ac; which is supposed to triple the effective distance of your wireless radius distance; increasing it from 300 ft. to 900 ft! :dance: Be prepared to spend some bucks though, it is still new technology. Cisco and Netgear have the new 802.11ac routers out in the stores now, and I almost bought one last week for a Customer. Radio Shack store wanted $149.95 for the basic model. They had them up to $249. :whistling:
This was for a business; and the Boss bought the $99 router, and is having reception problems at the other end of his building; wishing now I could have talked him into the "AC" model! 

Hope that helps. :thumb:

BIGBEARJEDI


----------



## TheBlitz (Sep 3, 2013)

Thanks well my router is on the other side of my home.but its on the same floor. Its also under 300ft. I'll check to see what model my modem is, but it is a netgear. It'd also be good to get this adapter since it does run at 300 mbps for N and if I upgrade it can run at 900/ 800 mbps.


----------



## TheBlitz (Sep 3, 2013)

Guys considering whether to get this WNDA3100 adapter or this one WNDA4100 . Which is better?


----------



## MPR (Aug 28, 2010)

The 4100 is potentially faster, has more range and can stream multiple HD videos -- see the specs in the links you gave.


----------

