# 18hp Briggs & Stratton Replacement Engine



## romankaminski (Aug 19, 2008)

18hp Briggs & Stratton Replacement Engine

I have a 18hp Briggs & Stratton Engine on a Bolens Riding Lawnmower, 2 days a ago the engin shot. i took it apart yesturday and both valves broke and were all broken up inside and jammed the gears. So i plan on investing in a used engin, i just need help to determin what a replacement engin will work.

Mine is:
Mode 422707 Type 1206 Code 88082512

The ones im looking at are:
Mode 422707 Type 1214 01 Code 9410035A 
Mode 422707 Type 1510 01 Code 91073112


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Hi and welcome to the fourm :wave:

Can't find anything on these engines at all. I guess will need to look at them. Needs to be about the same size and the same rotation.

I guess what you really need to look at is the pulley (s) or shaft size incase you have to change the pulley(s). You need the same size pulleys or you will be needing new sized belts.

You still can have some problems with things like throttle cable, fuel line and wiring. Mounting holes can always be re drilled.

BG


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave:Agree with Basement geek - Can't find any reference to your engine numbers on the B&S web site either:4-dontkno

The issues are (as Basementgeek said) are:

Engine configuration - you can't replace a horizontal engine with a vertical
Face plate / bolt hole configuration so you can be sure that the replacement engine will mount OK on to you mower
Shaft size (diameter, key-way dimensions) and configuration (PiA if your's has a tapered shaft and its replacement has something different
Lastly (& as pointed out by Basementgeek) make sure that the replacement engine has throttle & choke connections that will suit you, that its fuel tank and exhaust are in the right place so you can mount it easily on your mower.

Having been down this path in the past - the engine swap out can be very easy if the replacement engine is a true copy of the original - or it can be a total PiA if you have to relocate fuel tanks, exhaust and / or run about all over the place to get all the fiddlie little bits that allow you to connect throttle & choke controls.

See if you can get B&S to give you some advice on where you can download the specs / schematic diagram for both your existing (demised) engine and those you are considering - then sit down and have a very careful look at the diagrams / specs to decide which will be an easy transplant.

Hope all goes well


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Yea you have to watch some of those engines have gear reductions built in, different size shafts, some are tapered some are not a B&S Dealer or maybe even Grainger will be able to tell you which engines will replace yours.


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## romankaminski (Aug 19, 2008)

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/pdf/illustrated_parts_list/100/MS9493.pdf


This is the engine specifications from the briggs and stratton web site, this is a PDF for Model Number Series covered 422700 to 422799 Type Numbers covered 1105 through 4822. My engine and the other engins fall into this PDF they are all the same and shaft sizes are the same. I dont know if this will help


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

@ romankaminski :wave: No - sorry that's the parts list - B&S should have a schematic diagram showing their engines in plan, elevations, side views and a 3d view that shows where all the important stuff (like shaft and its dimensions and engine layout, fuel tank, exhaust and engine controls) are located and their dimensions.

I know they had these a few years back - coz I got some for their vertical 8 Hp engines (had to replace a 5hp on an MTD shredder - and up powered it to 8HP). and from memory I got this data from the B&S web site - but I can't find it there now :4-dontkno

Suggest you contact B&S - maybe they can either point you to it on their web site - or maybe even snail mail a copy of it to you. You really need these schematic spec diagrams if you are to have an easy time of doing the transplant. :sigh:


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

@ romankaminski Had a bit of luck - try this -
Go to B&S web page, click on to "Engines" on RHS of page
Then click on "Customer Support & FAQs" (on left hand side of page)
Once you are in the FAQ page - click on "What is the direct replacenment for my engine"
Once there you have all the options for B&S engines and you can put your's in and hopefully get a list of all the atlernatives that can help you.

Hope this works for you


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave romankaminski 
Just another thought - whatever happens - don't loose your old engine - because there may be all sorts of parts (such as throttle & choke cable) connections that will get you out of throttle if the replacement engine is configured differently. Even the old exhaust and fuel tank parts and brackets maybe "godsends" if you find you need to reconfigure

B&S have a range of basic engines - BUT an absolute multitude of setups - all slightly different to meet the needs of their OEM customers. So if you have all the fittings and brackets from your old engine - it just may help you "modify" and similar - but not quite the same - replacement engine.

I can tell you from sad experience :sigh: - chasing around looking for these bits and pieces is a total PiA :upset:- so DON"T junk your old engine till you have completed your new engine transplant:4-thatsba

Let us know how you get on


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## K-B (Oct 24, 2005)

There is no replacement engine for that model. Briggs says it must be repaired with individual parts, or you can try and find something that matches up. Most important is crankshaft size, and like mentioned above you can't replace a vertical shaft engine with a horizontal shaft. For your reference, here is the crankshaft number from your old engine: 394028. This could help you when matching up something else. The top no-load speed for that engine is 3600 RPM.

PS 
There is no short block available for that engine, either.


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave: Looks like K-B has done some good research for you - PiA that there isn't a direct replacement - but all is not lost - coz you have your old engine - so you might as well start by taking it with you when you look at those alternate used engines to see if you can find one that will be the closest match to yours AND which can, with the aid of parts you can scavenge off you old engine, be made to fit your mower.

On the B&S comment that your old engine _.."must be repaired...." _- Given you have had a catastrophic failure - dropped valve and metal thru the cam shaft gears - I would avoid that route like the plague - IMHO - your old engine is shot and destined for the trash bin because after that kind of damage you can expect all sorts of damage to the block and internals and the cost of trying to repair that kind of damage generally isn't worth it - better to go down your original another engine path.

K-B has found the crankshaft number / spec which should solve the shaft length, diameter and key-way issues, so, so long as the face plate mounting holes are the same and you can relocate any peripherals (like fuel tank, exhaust & linkages / connections) using bits from your old engine - you should be OK - just a bit more fiddling about than I had 1st hoped:sigh:

Let us all know how you go


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## romankaminski (Aug 19, 2008)

thank you for the replys everyone, i have done some research and spoken to a few service shops up here and they said the same thing that was said in this thread. I am currently bidding on an engine close by on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190245203538

the shaft size is the same and its 6 years newer, from contacting the owner it should work fine, i also received the model numbers for it and took them to the shop and they confiremed it will fit my tractor.

Just a few questions:

when i receive a used engine i would like to clean it good and put in the right oils in it.

What oil would i use now that winter is coming and i have a blower attachment that i use?

any special care i need to do to it during the winter to prolong its life?

What oil would i use for the summer?

is there anything else i should do?

Thank you in advance.


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave: glad to hear things are progressing. 

As I live in Sydney Australia - I am not accustomed to "winterising" engines (a really cold winter day here is about 50 deg F :grin. 

Suggest you have a look at the B&S website - I am pretty sure that they have a oil spec schedule for summer and winter and a _"winterising / summerizing_" procedure for their engines.

Just one thing though - if you are buying an engine on eBay and (rightly) going to collect it in person - suggest you make sure the vendor knows that you will want to see it running before you hand over the hard earned $$$ - that way you will know it was a goer when you bought it. If it were me - I would also want to see it started with the electric starter as well (hand starting an 18HP twin isn't all that much fun)

Once you get it home, in addition to your oil change, unless you are absolutely sure the plugs, oil and air filters are new - replace the lot with new ones. You might also need to look at a new battery - but you will quickly find out if your old battery (or if you get one with the engine) that is capable of holding its charge.

Good luck and let us all know how you get on


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave:Had a look at the engine on eBay - just one more thing - whilst you are cleaning it up and before you install in into your mower - take a moment to remove the exhaust manifold and apply a little never-seize (or heat proof lubricant grease) to the exhaust manifold studs or bolts and bolt it back up again. These things have a habit of getting very tight with corrosion / heat and that way - when you need to replace the exhaust you will have some hope of being able to undo these bolts / studs without breaking them


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## romankaminski (Aug 19, 2008)

so i picked up my engine and put it in last night. I got it started it runs good. the only issues i have is the coil has a two wire coming out of it and my old coil only had one. the other issue is i dont know where the shut off cable goes, as the only way to shut it off is by putting the choke on full. Sorry there is one more thing, the carb on this one does not have a silenoid so i have an extra wire, should i put on the silenoid or just leave it off. thank you in advance


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave: Well done of the replacement engine - sorry - these questions are "engine specific" and I am not familiar with yours :4-dontkno

I can suggest that the B&S web site has wiring diagrams for its engines and if you go there with your engine model number - you might be able to figure out where the extra wires go.

Engine shut off should be by grounding the spark lead some way - usually by grounding the magneto - so one of the leads should cause the engine to stop when it is touched against the frame. - I would avoid using choke to shut down as it floods the engine.

If the solenoid is a fuel flow shut off - and is easily installed into the fuel line - can't see any problem in installing it and wiring it in (these are usually wired "normally closed" - ie fuel will only flow if there is power to the solenoid)

A word of caution though - before connecting up wires - make sure you know what they do / where they come from, so you don't inadvertently short something :4-thatsba - especially the alternator - coz they are expensive to fix. Good luck and let us know how you finish up


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## romankaminski (Aug 19, 2008)

i got everything running properly last night. i found the shut off valve and hooked up the alternator properly. I have not installed the silenoid but will tonight. Thank you for all you help everyone, i could not have done this with out you guys.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Glad things worked out for you.

BG


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave: Congrats on a job well done & happy to help


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## K-B (Oct 24, 2005)

You will most likely have to switch carburetors. It's not as simple as just the putting the solenoid on the new engine.
I would just tuck the fuel solenoid wire out of the way. The fuel solenoid is mainly a backfire prevention device.


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