# 99 Continental - Power Steering Problem



## jcgriff2 (Sep 30, 2007)

Hi - 

1999 Lincoln Continental
4.6L 32v V-8
54,200 miles (orig)

August 2007, CA Lincoln dealer replaced the Rack & Pinion steering system. They said it was cracked. Fluid poured from idle parked car then. Mileage ~ 38,000.

Steering making same noises again as 2007 when hard turn. 3 pints power steering fluid so far - 1 week. No puddles below parked car like 2007. 

54,000 mi and 32v V-8 - easily gets to triple digits on hwy & I would like to keep it. No damage/ accidents since R & P replaced 2007.

A guess, please, on the probability that the entire system once again has to be replaced? Any idea on cost? Should it go to the dealer or is R & P something that retail store like Firestone or STS can do?

Should I bother with temp-fix fluid from auto store?

Thanks. . .

JC

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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Find a good independent shop Chain stores tend to hire inexpensive help you will usually find 1 or 2 experienced techs and the rest either fresh out of school or underachievers.
Word of mouth is the best method ask some coworkers or neighbors who they use.
If it's using fluid it has to be leaking somewhere, could be as simple as a hose, to a pump or the rack gear itself. > http://www.rackpinionwhse.com/ShopB...Bx,+Pwr+Cyl&mode=PA&waitdisplay=True&rewrite=

Expect to pay list at a shop.


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## jcgriff2 (Sep 30, 2007)

Thank you.

I'll gladly pay that list price. 
I'm wondering now why the bill from Lincoln in 2007 was > $3,000. Labor?
What is "independent shop Chain" store - would it be a known name - like franchise?
No for Firestone/ STS?

.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Independent shop is just that a local repair shop where you walk in and talk to the owner usually, instead of a chain like Firestone, Sears, Wallmart, Pepboys Etc. 

The Dealer most likely sold you a new rather then rebuilt unit, and the labor rates are higher. (lot of overhead to pay for).

Just an Idea but at one time Ford/Lincolin/Mercury were offering a lifetime warranty on repairs performed at the dealerships, it was on again off again deal if your feeling lucky the previous repair may fall under that do you still have the receipt?


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

The mention that it was a CA (California??) dealer might tell the story on why so high on the cost. 

I does no good to ask for a timeframe on the fluid loss.... there should be none (fluid loss). If you are losing fluid there will be evidence in the way of a damp area along the path of the PS components. That will include anything from the pump to the rack and pinion. 

The leakage might not occur until hydraulic pressure is in demand..... take a look at the hoses and any connections while the steering wheel is turned from one side to the other. Go from stop to stop and hold the wheel against one of the stops..... that will keep pressure on the system and should show where the leakage is at. Make sure the power-steering reservoir is at the proper level before doing any checks.

I would not be a happy camper if I had to replace any steering components on a car with so few miles.


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## jcgriff2 (Sep 30, 2007)

@ *wrench97* - yes, I have the receipt and unfortunately warranty was 1 year.

@ *SABL* - If I knew what hoses, etc... to look for, I would. But I am someone that has never even changed the oil in a car... sad, I know!

Yes, Palm Springs, California - no choice at the time. Increased costs were expected... but the end amount is truly high.

Thanks to all for the help.

jcgriff2

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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

follow the 2 hoses on the back of the pump down to the box


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Sideways engine and the Rack is mounted behind the transaxle not a easy vehicle to see every thing on with all the plastic dress up covers in place.


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## jcgriff2 (Sep 30, 2007)

No incidents on my 300 mile trip over the last 3 days outside of 4 pints of power steering fluid. I have looked around p/s reservoir and don't see anything - the fluid appears to be leaking only while in transit; not idle & parked. Still looking for repair shop. Local Votec said too late in the year; no openings at this time.

Firestone or STS doing tires/ brakes this week along with a cursory look at the steering problem. Airbag light problem has resurfaced - diagnostics test revealed clock spring bad - again (replaced in 2007; mentioned HERE). To save reading time, the airbag light comes on at ignition, blinks 3 times, repeats this cycle 3-4x, then solid. Low voltage at times - only picked up by radar/ laser detectors - never on-board diagnostics. New alternator, battery, steering, clock spring in 2007 by Lincoln, PS, Calif. Battery again ~ 6 months ago locally after bizarre key incident - orig factory keys INOP after dups made at Lincoln.

Should shocks and spring be done now ? They will have the car for a week. There is "squeaking" - LF at times; been like that for a while (precedes steering problem). Not sure if shock, spring, ...

Any other maintenance items besides general (Oil chg, air & fuel filter) while its there? No engine hesitation whatsoever. I do like the 32v V-8. I had the Mark VIIIs chips put in when new to boost to 325 horses.

Thank you.

JC

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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

The Squeaking could be a bad ball joint or the upper strut mounting plate bearing.
Does this have the Air springs on it or the sport/comfort switch on the console for the electronic shocks?


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## jcgriff2 (Sep 30, 2007)

Yes - it has rear air suspension. It is working fine.

I am unsure about electronic shocks.

Nothing special in the front as far as I know (except leaking p/s fluid)!.

Thanks.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Some of those are air Front and Rear.
If you have a ride control switch or Performance/Comfort switch on the dash or usually the console then it has the Electronic Shock package.


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## jcgriff2 (Sep 30, 2007)

Yes, I have the ride control & steering control packages. 

I never gave it much thought as to how exactly the car stiffened up when ride control setting changed to TIGHT. So rear = air shocks; front = electronic? Or can the back have both?

I can only imagine what those things cost. I had all 4 air bags/ suspension go on previous Lincoln. Those were $$$.

Thanks

.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

They are probably both electric/air, there are a couple different setups, depending on year/option, but I remember 1 set of front struts being about $1400 cost for one in the late 90's vintage.


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## jcgriff2 (Sep 30, 2007)

Thanks for the help and information.

I think I'll stop here now, as the more Q & A, the closer I get to justification of a new similar vehicle, which is NO-GO at this time.

I'll post back w/ outcome after it comes out of repair shop(s).

Thank you.

JC

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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

I knew had this floating around, there is a replacement system for the Air suspension on those Continentals > http://www.strutmasters.com/lincoln-continental-suspension-s/38.htm


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## jcgriff2 (Sep 30, 2007)

Thank you. I appreciate your continued time on this subject that I know little about.

I now recall these non-air suspension strut replacements after your post. A friend had them installed on a Mark VIII. I will look into them. A far cry from the cost of OEM air replacements.

Time is near for the steering... a 225 mile round trip today required 3 quarts of p/s fluid. I even tried the "stop leak", but am obviously past that point. Still a NO-GO for local Votec. Looking for "SHOP" in case it is R/P steering replacement needed.

While I'm here, if I may - thoughts on tires? I had factory Michelin's replaced when car new b/c front wheel drive & 325hp couldn't handle wet pavement on takeoff; ended up w/ Bridgestone "V"-type tread so water pushed outward. 2 sets so far.



```
[font=lucida console]
[u]NAME                      BRAND       SPEED Mileage  PRICE[/u]
PZ900                   Primewell       W            60.00   
 
Potenza G019 Grid       Bridgestone     H  50,000    99.99   
 
Potenza G019 Grid       Bridgestone     V  50,000   123.99   
 
Firehawk GT             Firestone       H  50,000   126.99   
 
Potenza RE92†           Bridgestone     H  40,000   137.99   
 
[color=red]Potenza RE 960AS Pole Pos Bridgestone   W  40,000   138.99   [/color]
 
Firehawk Wideoval       Firestone       W           142.99   
 
Turanza W/Serenity      Bridgestone     H  70,000   145.99   
 
Turanza ER33†           Bridgestone     Y           158.99   
  
Firehawk PV41†          Firestone       V           193.99   
 
Firehawk PVS            Firestone       V           213.99   
[/font]
```
Looking at Bridgestone Potenza RE960A/S Pole Position with UNI-T (unsure what all that means) -
http://www.bridgestonetire.com/tireselector/GlamourIndex_BS_EN.aspx?productID=1112

$75 off set of 4 - http://www.bridgestonetire.com/images/universal_images/hp_banners/Spring_Promotion_09.pdf

Firestone/ STS has "Primewell" on sale $240/4, but Google complaints say they sound like 747 on runway. 

Can I go 235/60 R16 or even 245/50 R16, or should I stay w/ factory 225/60 R16? 1st pair were 235 if I recall. I do want "V" > speed rating. 

Thanks. . .

JC

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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

I would go for the Bridgestone over the Firestone, on the Sizes I'll have to find my size charts but a rough guess the 245/50 are the same diameter as the 225/60 just wider.

If your using that much fluid I would not put the repair off much longer P/S fluid can and will catch on fire if it comes in contact with any exhaust components.


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## jcgriff2 (Sep 30, 2007)

I agree w/ repair timetable. Sudden trip to West Coast in 2 days, so car will sit for 1-2 weeks, during which I'll find Votec or similar for p/s here in NJ. Then clock spring & tires.

Wider tires would be nice. I agree w/ Bridgestone too - it's worth the cost I think.

Well, I will have rental car for next week or 2 and s/b fine going thru AZ & CA deserts and won't have to buy p/s fluid!

Thanks again . . .

JC

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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Have a good trip.


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## dai (Jul 2, 2004)

long live the rear wheel drive


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## jcgriff2 (Sep 30, 2007)

Hello to all and Happy Holidays!

I need further help, please (does this surprise you??)

I was unable to find Votec to do the steering repairs, so I had the car towed to Firestone automotive and ended up with a bill in excess of $3,000 !!!


```
[FONT=Lucida Console]- 4 new Potenza G019 P225/60R16 97V (safety for the kiddies, of course)
- new Rack & Pinion steering system
- New F & R Disc Brakes
- New F & R Rotors
- New Fuel Pump
- Belts, hoses, etc...
- Cooling system flush
- Alignment
- etc.....[/FONT]
```
Within 2 days - a stench of rubber burning; then noise (like metal/metal from LF).

2 items if you can please help me with - I have included pictures in the first zip file - please look at LF vs. RF hose in wheel well area - LF does not look right to me.

The other zip - the bill itself. There is still more work to be done in Pennsylvania to pass inspection - airbag light is on, although airbags are full functional (so I am told) - this is an old problem;
(2) - LED display "Check FRT Turn Lamps" - Left blinker goes a mile/minute. Also LF headlamp now out - I noticed about 1/4" water "standing" all along the bottom - 8" - 12" long (headlight & parking light). Can I drill a small hole to let the H20 out?

I cannot see how it would be possible for me to replace the headlamp assembly with the fan shroud and other stuff covering the access point.

The 2nd zip file is password-protected - it is a scanned copy of the actual bill and contains much personal information. I would appreciate a PM - I will then reply with password.

I cannot tell you how much I appreciate the help on this - I am way out of my element.

Thank you again - 

John

.

p.s. the car is supposed to go back in tomorrow afternoon - 12 hours from now; maybe sooner.

`

*EDIT: * I cannot upload the 2nd file - it is 11 MB - too large for attachment. I can send it via email. I would appreciate someone looking at it to tell me just how r/o I was!

*EDIT 2* - 2nd zip file --> http://www.mediafire.com/?mduyziyenjm
-- please PM me for password

*EDIT 3* - the pictures of the damage after the car repairs were paid for and the car released to me - and then had to go back in for $500+ more in repairs -

 .  .  .  .  .  . 


.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

I can't tell what that is inside the plastic according tubing but it is not supposed to be rubbing on the drive axle.

I think you'll be visiting the Firestone store is seems they have it jammed between the cross-member and drive axle, check the rubber boots on the drive axle joints any tears or hole will mean the boot needs to be changed also.


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## pat mcgroin (May 1, 2009)

Its tough to say from the pictures but I would say that it likely has to do with the load leveling feature that Lincoln has.
From the picture there seems to be an electrical connection on the inboard side that would possibly measure the deflection of the rod contained inside of the accordian tube.
It would appear that the rod broke and is out of posistion.

As for the water issue while at Firestone ask the guy if the front cover of the head ligh will come off to get the water out.
Some do and some dont.
If not I dont see why a small hole would hurt anything.
If you do end up drilling it be sure to put on some tape and drill through the tape using a slow speed drill so it wont snag and crack the plastic.

Pat


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## Midnight Tech (Dec 31, 2001)

JC, go ahead and drill a TINY hole in the corner of the light and let it drain, then seal it up with a dab of clear RTV. If it comes back, then you gonna have to replace that whole unit.
Digging on info on the pics....PM inbound!


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

Hi jcgriff2 

That is the height sensor for the vehicle.


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## jcgriff2 (Sep 30, 2007)

Thank you all for your responses. I really appreciate it - especially in this area where I am completely out of my element. The car is back at Firestone with copies of the posted comments (redacted, of course). Work begins in about 2.5 hours.

I will drill that hole and see what happens with the water in the "sealed" light fixture. I am told that each lens costs ~$435 from the dealer. $870 for light bulbs? WOW!

I also asked them to fix the rear windows defroster - the thin strip with the wires attached on the one side came loose again and it is INOP. RWD is needed around here. The shop that did the 87% tinted windows in California in 2007 broke it originally.

To top it all off, my 19 year old had her car warmed up (is was ~25 F here) ready to follow me over to Firestone. . . . then I noticed the 3 day-old LR tire was flat!

Any takers on what goes next - besides me? :grin:

I should know the outcome by late tomorrow.

I do love that 4.6L 32v V8 - 325 HP engine, though.

Again - THANK YOU ! ! ray:

John

.


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## Midnight Tech (Dec 31, 2001)

$870 for bulbs? Does it have HID lights?


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

I think he means the headlight assemblies.(there not bulbs any more JC).


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## jcgriff2 (Sep 30, 2007)

Boy, do I owe you guys BIG TIME .... !!!

I just spoke with Firestone and they said the "boot actuator" - the height sensor you all spoke of - caught on fire and that is what was producing the burning rubber smell. 3 of my 4 kids were in the car that night - 8, 11 ,15 that the overwhelming smell permeated the cabin.

They are waiting for a call from Lincoln/ Ford for pricing. 

I hope that I got the "lingo" correct here. I asked about the pictures they summarily dismissed yesterday - after you all took the time to look at them and diagnose. What I don't understand is how they missed that one in the first place and released the car to me 2 days before the apparent fire.

Has anyone taken bets on me being the dumbest car owner in America yet?

Thank you all so very much for your time and attention to detail regarding this matter.

If anyone would like to call them for details (to hopefully explain in "English to me), I would be eternally grateful as I now think I am being taken on the ride of my life - spent more now than the car is probably worth - even with 55,000 orig miles.

Kevin/ Chris - 856-424-9593 - use my full name - they'll know who I am.

John

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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

I doubt very much that the sensor catching on fire caused this, more like the sensor shaft was bent when they were replacing the rack and the friction of the rubber rubbing on the axle caused the fire.


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## jcgriff2 (Sep 30, 2007)

Another question, then please - 

- the rack and pinion system was replaced by a Lincoln/Merc/Ford dealer in 2007 in San Bernardino, CA just 20 months prior to this sudden steering episode in March 2009
- could the sensor shaft have been bent since 2007? I drove the car home to NJ after that work was done - no incidents to report
- March 2007, the steering just "went" again - there were NO collisions of any kind 
- any chance that my driving habits caused the damage to the sensor shaft?
- or is it more likely that Firestone caused this damage last week?

- I just don't understand given the amount of work they did - new tires, brakes, rotors, etc... how the sensor shaft could have been missed (my amateur eye picked up something was wrong in the photos - I think)

- As I mentioned, Firestone at first dismissed the sensor shaft being bent - until shown the posts here along with their inspection afterward

- I am now told the car will be ready Mon or Tues - part ~ $225 minimum + labor - Do you think they are culpable in this in any manner?

Thank you...

`


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

I Doubt they could have missed it, it would have been too obvious to anyone with the wheel off working on the front end that it was bent, with the car on the lift it may not have been touching the axle as the angles will change when the car is off the ground. 
If they popped the upper or lower ball joints apart to gain access to remove the rack and left the sensor attached it may have jammed the rod fully extended and bent when the car was lowered back on the ground and weight of the vehicle was put on it.


Most of the time short term failures of steering components comes from a poor quality rebuild or not flushing the power steering system to remove debris(little metallic or hard plastic bits) from the first failure.


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## pat mcgroin (May 1, 2009)

Even with the car in the air and it possibly not currently touching a decent mechanic
should have noticed that something was different from the other side.
At the very least he should have noticed that something was rubbing and looked into it a bit further.

As Wrench said unless it occured when the car was put back on the ground I would be pretty upset.
That part is a sensor and not a real weight bearing part so it would be difficult to imagine it being put into that much of a bind.

Some thing more that you will need to considor is the rubber boot on the drive axle.
At the very least they should offer to replace that. Since it was rubbing that much and got hot like the height sensor boot, it IS going to fail much sooner than normal.
When dirt and moisture get into that joint it is a fairly short time before it will begin to fail and require replacement and it is a expensive repair.


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## jcgriff2 (Sep 30, 2007)

Thank you to all.... I get the car back tomorrow (Tues).

I will of course need to test it at a high rate of speed to make sure it is satisfactory for my local driving. I think triple-digit speeds on the NJ Turnpike or PA Turnpike will do just fine. Or maybe I-95, I-195, I-295, Atlantic City Expressway, Garden State Parkway, etc... whichever has the least presence of those using radar and laser guns. Must keep them guessing.

John

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## pat mcgroin (May 1, 2009)

I wouldnt think that you could get going that fast in NJ with the toll booths every mile or so.
That car must have amazing acceleration.:laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## jcgriff2 (Sep 30, 2007)

`


OH... you mean STOP at a toll booth - as in -0- mph??

Didn't you ever go down the Garden State Parkway and then toss the coin toward the basket as you went through the toll booth? Those were the days before toll-catcher-cameras, of course!

4.6L 32-valve V-8 and 325 horses w/ the upgraded Mark VIII chips - from what I remember when I bought the car, anyway. I'd like to see what Windows 7 and a quad-core could do for it now!

Today is the day!!!! Testing will commence this afternoon.

.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Just remember to slow down for the Bridge to Delaware:grin:


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## pat mcgroin (May 1, 2009)

jcgriff2 said:


> `
> 
> 
> OH... you mean STOP at a toll booth - as in -0- mph??
> ...


Always a passenger in NJ but in Chicago I have tossed some coins, only to miss and not have the gate go up in time.

Sorry We dont have those here and forgot to consider electronic tagging.
Im sure that is a big help.


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## jcgriff2 (Sep 30, 2007)

wrench97 said:


> Just remember to slow down for the Bridge to Delaware:grin:


Point well taken.... I'll also be sure to avoid California on my way to Wilmington, even though in my own car! 

`





pat mcgroin said:


> Always a passenger in NJ but in Chicago I have tossed some coins, only to miss and not have the gate go up in time.
> 
> Sorry We dont have those here and forgot to consider electronic tagging.
> Im sure that is a big help.


Well, these days there is no basket to try and throw the quarter at - hit or miss. Easypass electronic toll payment in place. If violation occurs and that super-clear photo spread of the car, driver and tag comes in the mail wanting payment + a huge fine, one just needs to write their Easypass account number on the citation and the toll is deducted. Hard to imagine that a computer glitch could cause a false non-payment notice to be generated, huh?

`
`
Thanks again to everyone for your help. They replaced the part in the picture, gave me another bill; drained the headlamp assembly - headlights now working fine. Rear defroster was a disappointment - they used a small square piece of rubber/plastic w/ double-sided adhesive to re-attach the wiring harness to the rear window on the one side (about 1/2" square), which obviously did not contain any metallic substance to allow electrical flow. So now I have to figure out a way to get the Krazy-glued piece off before trying myself. I know the rear defroster system can work, because the outside heated mirrors are controlled by the same switch - and they work. 2 years ago, a guy used some solder to re-attach the little harness for the rear defroster and it worked. But then I had to go and clean the interior of that window a few months later and knocked it off again.

I only was able to use the car the way I like to drive for about an hour. :sigh: We are now buried under 2+ feet of snow - with more coming down as I write this. 

I greatly appreciate the guidance and help. ray:

John

.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

I was thinking of buying a snow blower but I guess it's too late now I'll have to wait for someone I know to break theirs and have them bring it over for repairs:4-dontkno


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## Snoopdogie187 (Jun 27, 2002)

For the rear defrost, they make a metallic epoxy which is suppose to conduct electric and work in applications like this one. I haven't found it in any local places, but on amazon there is a few to select from, like: Permatex 15067 Quick Grid Rear Window Defogger Repair Kit or Loctite - Rear Window Defogger Tab Adhesive

I know how you feel about the snow, I possible have an hour drive along 78/287 later.


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## jcgriff2 (Sep 30, 2007)

Thank you. . . I will check that out.

I looked at it the other day and wonder if the lead on the wire that appears to snap into the rectangular piece that "sticks" to the ??? on the window (lost for the correct terms here !) needs to somehow be replaced. 

I'll get some pictures if I can.

I do recall that in 2007 when the 87% tint was applied the 4 doors & rear window that rear defrost went INOP. I asked the tinting place about it before leaving the CA Desert and he said he knew nothing about it. Then he proceeded to the RR door, but stopped and then walked around to the LR door and opened it and looked in on the rear defroster wires. That of course is the side that is broken. I should have persisted! 

Anyway, upon return drive to NJ, I took it in to local shop where a guy soldered it back on. Then during the summer 2008, I knocked it off while cleaning the rear window. "Solder-man" is now gone. I have been advised that attempting to solder it in these frigid 15ºF temps could result in breaking the rear window.

Those junkyards with Lincolns that have in-tact rear windows are looking better every day! I know the rear defroster system works, b/c the heated outside mirrors work - and they're on the same circuit from what I can tell.

Thanks again. . .

John

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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

You should be able to find something like this in your local auto parts store> http://www.permatex.com/products/Au..._Complete_Rear_Window_Defogger_Repair_Kit.htm


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## Snoopdogie187 (Jun 27, 2002)

Also, these products (from the reviews of them) don't seem to work well in the cold either.

I have one car with the tab also broken, and I would prefer to solder it back on, but I have the same issue, the below freezing temps and hot solder on the glass. I'm also unsure of even the hot solder on a mid summer day, if that is safe or not, so I was just going to use the epoxy.


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