# need help with installing new valve seal on briggs 6.0 intek ohv engine



## jrdarrah (Nov 12, 2004)

I am burning oil so I decided to replace the valve seal on a 121602-0121-E1engine. Since I had to take the head off I also replaced all of those gaskets as well. My problem is that the Briggs and Stratton 795440 (replaces 692044)
Seal-Valve that I bought doesn't look anything like the old one. The 692044 is about the size of a quarter and fits just beneath the intake valve spring. The new one looks like a small brass thimble with a rubber gasket formed inside. The small end has a gasket with a hole in it for the valve stem to go through. The only place that makes any sense for it to go is on the lower end of the valve guide inside the port leading to the carburator with the open end pointing to the valve. It seems to be a perfect fit. This is the exact opposite of the location and direction of the old one. I'm posting this in hopes that someone can confirm it has to go inside the head. I'm a little leary of putting in a part inside the port that is only pushed on top of the valve guide. Not sure if as the engine runs it will work it's way loose and bang around as the valve moves. Thanks for any help anyone can give. Grass has finally started to grow here in Georgia.


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## jrrdw (Jun 26, 2010)

It should slip over the valve stem and cover the valve guide with enough valve spring clearance to avoid binding of any kind.


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## Arthur3731 (Jun 26, 2016)

I have the same situation with a Briggs and Stratton 7 hp engine. I think you are correct. The only place for the seal to go on the intake valve is inside the port where it will fit on the valve guide sticking out. That is the only place for it to fit other than on the exhaust valve. Seals should always be installed on the intake valve. This head does not allow the valve seal to be installed under the valve spring.


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## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

Finally got the password reset; took all morning.

Now you should have a MS10379 sheet with the seal but it sound like neither of you did so here a scanned copy.


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## Arthur3731 (Jun 26, 2016)

I replaced the valve seal on the extended side of the valve guide and the Briggs engine still smokes. When I start the mower, it will start normally. After about two minutes it will smoke for about a minute. then it clears up. After another minute or so, it will smoke again for a minute or so. This continues as long as the engine is running. I replaced the head gasket. I placed a straight edge on the head and top of the cylinder and both appear to be perfectly flat. Could it be a broken oil ring that is causing the problem? The engine breather assembly seems to be working properly. The engine is a Briggs 7 HP model number 128602-0304-E1. Any solution?


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## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

I haven't enough experience of this design to say but it sounds more like a worn valve guide to me but it could be a worn ring. How much side play did the valves have? There should be only a slight amount. I get engines where the guides are worn badly but still pass the Briggs go/no go test gauge. Most of those engine are L-heads and smoke like a freight train on start-up and most users brings the mower wanting new rings and I have learned to check those guides first.

In the 6+ years I have been working Briggs engine I only seen one broken ring and that was where the installer failed to remove the top ridge on a rebuild. It left a nasty groove in the cylinder wall.


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## Arthur3731 (Jun 26, 2016)

I talked to a man that is going to call Briggs and Stratton about the oil smoking. The valve guide is ok and the valve seats properly. Even if the guide was not within its tolerance, the oil seal on the intake valve would prevent the oil accumulation and smoking. There is no evidence of the valves not seating properly. If the engine had a bad oil ring, it seems that it would smoke all the time. I replaced the head gasket and there is no evidence of head gasket leaks. The oil level in the engine is at its proper height.


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