# Samsung CLX-3175FN Paper Jam 1 = Exit Sensor 0604001393



## fred_1234

Hello all,

My Samsung CLX-3175FN was continually jamming. First page would get half way through, then it would stop with "Paper Jam 1" error message. No matter how many times I cleared the paper out, it would just dio the same thing over and over again.

After Googling "clx-3175fn paper jam 1", I came across some posts on various tech support boards saying that this is a common problem with these printers, and it's 90% due to a failed paper exit sensor. There's a little photo-interrupter sensor inside the fusing unit that tells the printer the currently printing page has managed to clear the fuser. When that sensor fails, the printer will throw that paper jam error over and over again.

The sensor is Samsung part number 0604001393 and can be bought at several online printer parts retailers for a few bucks.

But how to replace it? After much searching, the best and closest I could come up with was this thread here on this forum:

http://www.techsupportforum.com/f109/samsung-clp-315-how-to-replace-the-exit-sensor-468540.html

The CLP is pretty close to the CLX, but the extra layer of scanner and document feeder on top of the CLX makes it just enough different that you can't just follow this guy's directions blindly. But they got me close enough to figure it out.

I also searched for and found the actual Samsung Service Manual for this printer, which shows how to remove the various modules you have to pull out to get to the sensor. As of this writing, I found it at 

http://hotfile.com/dl/28988134/55113fe/CLX-3170-3175.zip.html

So, to give back to the community, here's what I did. Piecing together ideas from bits of threads on how to extricate the old sensor, it seemed I was going to have to pull off the entire top of the printer, which the service manual says you should preceed by removing pretty much the entire guts of the machine - but I said nuts to that, and did this instead. It seriously simplifies the process, but requires a little nerves-of-steel non-standard operation.....

1) Unplug the printer (gotta put that in for idiot-proofing)

2) remove the left and right side covers

3) coaxingremove the fusing unit - check the service manual - there are four screws, easy enough, but then there are two wires that snake into the side and have to be disconnected before you can pull it out. Also, there's a tricky spring-loaded drive axle connector - careful not to lose the spring

4) remove the rear access door - yes, completely remove it - the pivots just pop out with a little 

5) At this point, you can now see your faulty photo-interrupter exit sensor. When looking into the cavity where you just took the fusing unit out of, it's in the upper right hand corner, lodged in a kind of plastic frame it snaps into. You'll notice that the connector end of the sensor passes through a hole in the printer frame, where some wires connect to it.

6) Ths is where things get non-standard - someone correct me if I missed something, but I found it physically impossible to remove the sensor. It has little clips on the back that require the sensor to be clipped out at the connector end, then rotated out to disengage the clips at the other end of the sensor - but with the connector passing through this little hole in the frame, it was impossible to move it enough to disengage the clips. As I said, some online threads said you have to remoave the entire upper unit, but personally I didn't see how this was going to improve the situation. Further, it seemed to me that the sensor would come out just fine if only that hole in the frame were just 5 or so millimetres wider........sooo.......I cut that sucker out. 

7) To do this, I first removed the left-hand side printed circuit board (left when facing the machine from the front - or right when looking into the fuser cavity from behind) But BE CAREFUL!! That board holds a bunch of spring-loaded contacts in place - keep the printer tilted up so they don't fall out of their slots.

8) disconnect the exit sensor wire from the sensor

9) Now we get to the nerves of steel part - opening up that hole - me, I used an exacto knife and very very very carefully cut grooves into the plastic on both sides of the frame, then grabbed the plastic with some tiny offset needle nose pliers and pulled. The idea is to make the hole wider, toward the rear of the printer, by a quarter inch or so. I can imagine many other methods to so this - like with a tiny cut off blade on a dremmel or something. Again - be real careful - you don't want to slip and slice the circuit board or anything.

10) Anyway - once that was done, the sensor popped right out and the new one popped back in as if my new frame opening were designed for that.

11) Now re-assemble everything in reverse - careful of those spring loaded sensors behind that circuit board.

Plugged it back in, fired it up - and I'm printing multiple full pages like new again. Hope this helps someone.


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## cnknudson

I've replaced the exit sensor and the fuser (even though I have not used anywhere near MTBF numbers). The paper still jams in the same place as described in the above post. 
Any one else with ideas?


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## fimbles

Hi,

Thanks a lot for your indication. I got the same problem and the printer works again after replacing the photo sensor.

I followed your indication except step 6 (which was non standard . I removed entirely the upper part and it appeared that the photo sensor is clipped on the piece "frame exit 2". After removing the upper part, I removed 2 screws which hold the frame exit 2. I could not remove it entirely but I could lift up a little bit the right side where the photo sensor is clipped and replaced it easily without cutting anything.


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## pdkwon

thanks for this write up. hopefully this part resolves my problems too as I 've been getting the same errors/jams.
also, if you remove the top portion of the printer, the scan assembly, the photo interrupter is easily accessible and removable, so you may want to take the extra steps so you don't have to cut/break anything.


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## myshiftzz

Thanks Fred_1234. The only thing I did different was to use a heated exacto knife blade to make the slot bigger. It cuts like butter that way. Prints like new again!


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## scruge

I had same problem as others however I determine mine was caused by cover warpage. 

The exit cover "A" in photo, appeared to have warped up in the middle. Probably caused by heat from fuser unit. The warp prevents the underside post "B" from fully depressing button "C" which rotates the sensor paddle to interrupt the opto sensor. As a result the printer thinks either there's a jam or cover isn't closed.

You can test by manually depressing "C" with your finger, completely down while powering up the printer. There shouldn't be any hazards but if you are concerned you can figure out an alternative to hold "C" down during the test. You must hold down the entire warm-up time, ~2min.. if you should release, the printer will abort the process. A good sign is if you hear the printer motor cycle, not to be confused with the scanner cycling.

Possible repairs.. 

1. Remove "A" (snaps out) and reheat in a low temp oven to see if you can remove the warp. After which reinforce the cover with metal beam from hobby shop.

or
2. Find a small rubber cap that can be slipped over post "B" to lengthen it.

or
3. Buildup button "C" height with double face tape and thick piece of plastic.

Hope this helps.


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## scruge

I forgot to include as a repair option, ordering the replacement "jam Cover JC63-01342G" . Theres an "A" and "G" version, I'm not certain which is correct for your machine. I think either is less than $10.


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## Jerry28

Hi

I have the same problem with my CLX-3175. Sometimes paper wraps on fuser roll. It happens usual wen I print color page witch small top margins. Witch black is OK. Wrap starts from right side if U face fronr printer. Left side is going out, but right stick on the heat roll. I've replaced sensor and fuser, but still the same.

Any solutions?

Regards


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## printerman60

is the exit sensor warped or broke?
we have the chance to check one out up close and personal. curious to see what this Made In china printer has to offer.


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## Jeff1502

How did you rmove the right and left covers??? Wher are the latches????


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## printerman60

download the service manual,


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## Jeff1502

Thanks, but the service manual, which I have, doesn't help with taking the side off. Even Samsung Techs weren't sure how to take them off. Finally got them off, think the fuser is bad.


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## ulysse31

Hi all,

I have a paper Jam 1 error, but the paper does not even enter the fuser ! it just get stuck at the fusers door, like if the fuser just won't "roll up" the paper !
Please, if someone have some advice.
Thank you all.


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## printerman60

you have to remove the right side panel, which is popped off from right underside of the printer, to remove the cable that connect to the fuser.
we used a small flat jewellers screw driver to remove the sensor, CAREFULLY.
then order the part. We had to order from a Samsung authorized dealer. $6, the shipping was $12


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## dmzcompute

The first poster of this thread makes the job very difficult. I have repaired over 50 of these in the past working for a Samsug provider. We had to do these in warranty. The easy way is to remove both side covers and remove the fuser. You should also remove all the consumables including the drum. Now remove the high voltage power supply which is on the right side when looking from the rear. Just be careful of the spring loaded posts that provide the contacts for the drum. If one falls out just leave it out until done and put back in when finished. Now disconect the wire that goes from the sensor to the high voltage board at the sensor which is now exposed. Now you will have to take a flat tip screwdriver and fiddle with the sensor from the rear of the printer above where the fuser sits to make it come out. When out just fiddle with the new one to get it into the holder and sitting right. When done reconnect and put everyting back together and it will work just fine. This way you do not have to remove the scanner portion and it saves a lot of time. The hardest part is getting the sensor out of the holder but if you fiddle enough it will come out. You may also want to cut off the plastic ledges on the sensor where the connection is make to the sensor. Just use some wire snips. It makes it easier to put the new sensor in the slot.


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