# Lost power > computer will not turn on



## allastorm (Oct 29, 2011)

Hello, I recieved some wonderful help a month or so ago when my laptop was giving me trouble, now I am in need again of your assistance.

I was sitting on the couch with my laptop this morning and all of a sudden the power went out, for 20-30 seconds. No storm or anything, it was very bizarre. My desktop computer was on, the monitor was sleeping but the actual computer part was on. It all shut off due to the power surge, obviously. I have a surge protector, so I said whatever, and resumed using my laptop in the meantime.

Went to turn my desktop back on a few hours later... nothing. No fans, no lights, no sounds... just silence. No big deal, I reset the power surge protector. No change. I unplugged everything from my desktop and replugged it in. No change. I called my boyfriend at work to see what I should do, and he said there is a switch on the back and to reset it... but there is NOTHING on the back of my computer (very strange).

The only sign of life is this little green LED on the back of my computer, towards teh top, that blinks every 3 seconds or so EVEN WHEN the computer has nothing plugged into it. Not sure if this is just some sort of battery backup thing, or if it means something important regarding my power supply.

What do I do? 

I know little about my computer, I cant really give you teh specs unless its working. Its an HP, I upgraded it to Windows 7 about a year and a half ago. The only hardware it has that didnt come standard with it is a wireless network card. Nothing has changed, I just lost power. I hope it didn't fry anything, because I don't have the money to test out the parts with replacements or bring it to someone.

All I know is that the files on my harddrive is VERY important, and ironically I was just talking with a friend last week about how I hadnt backed up my files for a VERY long time. I highly doubt that they are lost, but I dont know how to get them off my harddrive, all I have to work with is a laptop and boyfriends desktop that he wont want be tampering with.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Try unplugging the power cord from the back, press and hold the front power button for at least 10 seconds a couple of times, replug the power card and see if it will start.


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## Ikeclausen (Nov 26, 2011)

You might try unplugging the computer from both the surge protector and the computer and pushing the power button (this which will help to drain all the power that is left over in your PC's motherboard) and then plug it back in.


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## Rich-M (May 2, 2007)

Do what everyone suggested except leave it sit a half hour before trying it again. If there still is nothing you burnt the power supply which isn't an expensive problem unless you have one of those "slimline" desktops where the psu is both crap, the only thing available and a fortune to buy!


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## allastorm (Oct 29, 2011)

Thank you. I tried everything you guys said, but still no luck.

The blinking light got slower and slower when it was funny unplugged (and makes an annoying but quiet sound every time it blinks) and finally stopped after I held down the power button for a while. I waited a half hour with everything unplugged from it. Still doesn't turn on. Blinking light now blinking every second.

I dont understand how this even happened when I have a surge protector :/ I have no idea how to tell what power supply I have currently, or how to change it and I dont really want to touch stuff like that and risk being shocked or something. Also, I dont want to invest in this power supply if it may not even be the problem. What if my motherboard is fried? I dont know where to go from here


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Try plugging it into the wall bypassing the surge protector.


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## allastorm (Oct 29, 2011)

wrench97 said:


> Try plugging it into the wall bypassing the surge protector.


Didn't work either.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

What model HP should be on the front or a tag on the rear or bottom.
The next step would be to clear the cmos using the jumper on the board the model will allow us to give you pictures from the HP site.


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## allastorm (Oct 29, 2011)

wrench97 said:


> What model HP should be on the front or a tag on the rear or bottom.
> The next step would be to clear the cmos using the jumper on the board the model will allow us to give you pictures from the HP site.


On the botton it says a6000


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Here's the link to the HP site for your motherboard, unplug the power cord, remove the side cover of the tower move the jumper cap as shown(scroll down and expand Clearing the Bios settings then expand clearing the CMOS in the link wait 10 seconds move the jumper back to the original position replug the power and try to boot.

Motherboard Specifications, M2N68-LA (Narra) HP Pavilion a6000n Desktop PC - HP Customer Care (Canada - English)


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## Rich-M (May 2, 2007)

It almost only can be the psu or the motherboard and that is commonly what happens from a power surge.
Most people don't realize unless you paid more than $65 as a general rule for your power surge protector, it probably isn't a real power surge protector anyway. And even if it was, one good hit and the protection is gone anyway. So is yours new and what is it first of all?


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## allastorm (Oct 29, 2011)

wrench97 said:


> Here's the link to the HP site for your motherboard, unplug the power cord, remove the side cover of the tower move the jumper cap as shown(scroll down and expand Clearing the Bios settings then expand clearing the CMOS in the link wait 10 seconds move the jumper back to the original position replug the power and try to boot.
> 
> Motherboard Specifications, M2N68-LA (Narra) HP Pavilion a6000n Desktop PC - HP Customer Care (Canada - English)


Thank you for the link. My motherboard didnt look exactly like that, but I figured it out and did what it said... no luck 

Rich-M: Yeah, I think I just found that out the hard way. I know its a few years old at least. I did some research and just learned that one power outage can basically take the life out of a surge protector, so there is no way that mine was doing its job.

This is really unfortunate... I wanted this computer to last a little while longer because I planned on buying a new desktop in the near future, but I dont have the money for it right now. I dont want to invest anything more into this computer, but I need to get it running to get my files (or find a way to get them easily) and to get my photoshop CS5 deactivated. 

It looks like power supplies for this model are $20-$30.... more than I want to pay. When openeing up my computer it said it was an ATX-250-12z and for output it said 250W Max... any idea where I can get a cheap replacement? Any way that I can rule out its NOT the motherboard for sure?


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## westom (Aug 28, 2009)

allastorm said:


> I dont understand how this even happened when I have a surge protector


 First, a power off (zero voltage) is not a surge (thousands of volts). Second, if you had a surge, then you have numerous less robust and damaged appliances. Surges occur typically once every seven years.

Second, computers have a safety lockout feature do to some anomalies that might cause damage. This safety lockout is reset by disconnecting a computer from the wall for as much as two seconds. More time does nothing. If unplugging does not reset that protective lockout, then other hardware problems exist.

Third, from your posts, a $5 or $17 meter and one minute labor means important numbers. Those numbers mean the next reply will define what is wrong. No more doubts or speculation. Without those numbers, every reply will only be speculation. A list of 'could bes' is long and only speculative.

Fourth, a surge protector adjacent to a computer does not even claim to protect computers from surges. Read the manufacture specs. It makes no protection claims in numbers. At best, it only claims to protect from surges made irrelevant by superior protection already inside HP computers.

Your symptoms imply a manufacturing defect and resulting hardware failure. To say more requires hard facts and numbers. One minute of labor inside the machine gets facts. If you did the safety lockout reset (and assuming the power cord is connected to AC mains), then no useful reply is possible without facts obtained from inside the machine.

From that last post: you cannot rule out anything. A power supply selling only for $20 or $30 is probably missing required functions that were necessary even in the original IBM PC.

Read a number on that protector box. It will define a let-through voltage of maybe 330 volts. That means any voltage less than 330 volts on the 120 mains is completely ignored by that protector. Protector does nothing - even though a majority will recite urban myths that say otherwise.

Numbers are critical to every useful answer. A meter is the only means of obtaining a solution in the next reply. Your only alternative is to keep replacing good parts and fixing things until something works.


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## Rich-M (May 2, 2007)

Westom is right and you can buy a device to check the psu, but sometimes that cost can be half what a psu would cost and I am not sure if it makes sense here, since it is something the average user may never use again.
There isn't a cheap psu you would want because the piece of junk that was in there may well have caused the problem, as they often do when they go.
A simple motherboard test could be shutting pc down and remove all ram sticks and restart. If system has a motherboard speaker you should get 3-4 beeps and if you don't you can be pretty sure the board is bad.
Without other components to test this unit, you might be best served by taking it to a shop who can test the board and the psu and tell you for sure but it sounds to me like both frankly. HP uses Bestec or Hipro Psu's which are such poor quality, the systems seldom survive a blowout from one of them anyway.


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## allastorm (Oct 29, 2011)

westom said:


> First, a power off (zero voltage) is not a surge (thousands of volts). Second, if you had a surge, then you have numerous less robust and damaged appliances. Surges occur typically once every seven years.
> 
> Second, computers have a safety lockout feature do to some anomalies that might cause damage. This safety lockout is reset by disconnecting a computer from the wall for as much as two seconds. More time does nothing. If unplugging does not reset that protective lockout, then other hardware problems exist.
> 
> ...


Thank you, although clearly I wouldn't be posting in these forums if I had a clue of how to troubleshoot this issue. Sorry if my questions sound dumb, and Im not so hardware savvy to know how to do all these 1 minute tests that you speak of. I don't have any meters or tools or the knowhow to use them let alone understand what they mean. I really appreciate the advice that everyone has been giving me, irregardless of if my problem is solved, at least some ideas are being bounced around and its very helpful.

Whether I had a power surge or not, all I know is that the power went out in my apartment today, and resulted in my computer no loner turning on. Clearly this was a result of power loss. My computer is 3 years old (purchased on black friday 3 years ago... ironically) so I do expect things to go wrong at this stage in its life. Right now Im all about getting a cheap fix.


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## allastorm (Oct 29, 2011)

Oh, I thought of something else that may be helpful in my problem. The power button to turn on my desktop is backlit with a yellow LED when powered off, this light is always on. Its blue when the computer is running. There is NO light at all anymore, not sure if this implies anything?


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## Rich-M (May 2, 2007)

I hear you but I seriously doubt there is a "cheap fix" here available. Cheap hardware is what caused the end of this pc to begin with and better off throwing it in a closet than buying a cheap psu, it already suffers from that. If the board is bad, there really is no fix at hand because while you can put a board in the case, theirs would be way too expensive to even consider and anyone else's most likely won't turn on due to proprietary power plugs few of us could figure out.
That is a shame as I work on pc's and I always say a desktop should last 5 years and a laptop 3 (due to heat and other issues) but when you buy for price, all that changes. Building for price reduces the quality and value and in this case at the worst possible points in the system.


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## westom (Aug 28, 2009)

allastorm said:


> Whether I had a power surge or not, all I know is that the power went out in my apartment today, and resulted in my computer no loner turning on. Clearly this was a result of power loss.


Reasons we fix things, first and foremost, is to learn how to solve any problem. Not just electronics. Assuming a power off caused damage is a classic example of 'assumption only from observation'. Military academy graduates are taught engineering concepts to not make that mistake. You learn same by fixing things. Any conclusion only from observation is junk science.

An example. A power off caused a computer to not restart. They assumed power cycling is destructive. Then I took that machine. Attached to its power supply controller is a bootstrap resistor. Its only function is to provide temporary power during power on. Sometime during the previous three months, that resistor failed. A failure due to a manufacturing defect and too many hours of operation. A failure only apparent when they tried to restart that computer.

You will not fix it by yourself. Providing important facts will result in help that can quickly solve the problem. Or identify a defect so that a repair shop cannot scam you. To learn how simple problems are easily solved and why all answers also require numbers, then borrow or get a meter for $5 at Harbor Freight or $17 in Wal-Mart. A tool so simple and inexpensive as to be sold in stores that market to 12 year olds (including Radio Shack, K-mart, and has even been seen in some larger supermarkets).

You have symptoms of a classic manufacturing defect. Maybe something as simple as a fuse. Nobody can say anything more without facts and numbers. And by combining that with facts that “we who have done this stuff for generations” provide.


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## allastorm (Oct 29, 2011)

Rich-M said:


> I hear you but I seriously doubt there is a "cheap fix" here available. Cheap hardware is what caused the end of this pc to begin with and better off throwing it in a closet than buying a cheap psu, it already suffers from that. If the board is bad, there really is no fix at hand because while you can put a board in the case, theirs would be way too expensive to even consider and anyone else's most likely won't turn on due to proprietary power plugs few of us could figure out.
> That is a shame as I work on pc's and I always say a desktop should last 5 years and a laptop 3 (due to heat and other issues) but when you buy for price, all that changes. Building for price reduces the quality and value and in this case at the worst possible points in the system.


I bought this desktop with intentions of it just being something comfortable for browsing the internet and the occational game. I HAD an Alienware laptop that lasted 5 years, and I have a pretty powerful Sony Vaio laptop right now (that I hardly use.... because I like the comfort of a desktop). Obviously this may change and my Vaio may become my primary computer again. I dont really know HOW my desktop came to be my primary computer, it actually ran extremely well despite not being the best, so for what I paid its been worth every penny and Im a little heartbroken that its gone and died on me, when this morning it was working like a charm.

This is how I feel: if its the motherboard, its dead to me. I will NOT pay to replace that. If its the power supply, and I feel like it is... I dont mind paying for a replacement if I can get a deal. 

I found this on Amazon, its cheap, but thats fine to me, it just has to get my by a few more months. Amazon.com: Diablotek DA Series 250-Watt ATX Power Supply PSDA250: Electronics

But im not even 100% sure that will be compatible. From the sticker on the PSU in my computer it says "ATX-250-12z REV D7R .... output 250W MAX ..... HP P/N 5188-2622"

If anyone can help me find a replacement that is compatible with those specs, I would greatly appreciate it.


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## westom (Aug 28, 2009)

allastorm said:


> There is NO light at all anymore, not sure if this implies anything?


 That hard fact implies one of two power supplies inside the PSU is not connecting power to the LED. Anything between AC mains and the LED could explain it. Inspection might discover a least likely reasons; a loose connector. To reduce many potential suspects down to but a few or one means numbers from the meter.

It could even be a simple fuse. Just one of many (and now less) suspects.


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## allastorm (Oct 29, 2011)

After having my boyfriend look at it when he got home, and got a second opinion from his brother, we are just going to order a new power supply, instead of wasting more time and money testing other parts. Would anyone be able to please confirm if this model is compatible with my computer, the HP a6000

http://www.amazon.com/Diablotek-250-Watt-Power-Supply-PSDA250/dp/B001BX0MSK/ref=pd_cp_e_1


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## westom (Aug 28, 2009)

allastorm said:


> Would anyone be able to please confirm if this model is compatible with my computer, the HP a6000


 An listed a preferred and least expensive solution with reasons why. Why are recommendations from others better? BTW, that is not a rhetorical question.

Defined earlier:


> A power supply selling only for $20 or $30 is probably missing required functions that were necessary even in the original IBM PC.


 So why buy a $13 supply? If $30 is too low, then why is $13 better?

A minimally acceptable supply typically starts at $60 retail.

Selecting a supply on watts is bad practice. A new supply must supply same or more current for each voltage. The original supply will (should) list a current for each 3.3, 5, 12 and other voltages. That new supply must provide at least that many amperes. A higher wattage supply may not supply enough current on one voltage. Then the computer will act like other parts are defective.

Where is the long list of numeric specs for that $13 supply? It does not even list current for each voltage. Does not list the many other required functions. A shortage of specs - and especially no numbers - is the first indication of trouble. Not just in electronics. In just about anything we do in life. Best is to learn by making mistakes.

The existing supply may be cured even and only by replacing a fuse. Your choice. Maybe a $1 fuse. Or $60+ for a minimally equivalent supply.

Numerous reasons suggest why an earlier recommendation is preferred. Above are but a few quick reasons.


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## Rich-M (May 2, 2007)

allastorm said:


> I bought this desktop with intentions of it just being something comfortable for browsing the internet and the occational game. I HAD an Alienware laptop that lasted 5 years, and I have a pretty powerful Sony Vaio laptop right now (that I hardly use.... because I like the comfort of a desktop). Obviously this may change and my Vaio may become my primary computer again. I dont really know HOW my desktop came to be my primary computer, it actually ran extremely well despite not being the best, so for what I paid its been worth every penny and Im a little heartbroken that its gone and died on me, when this morning it was working like a charm.
> 
> This is how I feel: if its the motherboard, its dead to me. I will NOT pay to replace that. If its the power supply, and I feel like it is... I dont mind paying for a replacement if I can get a deal.
> 
> ...


Did you try removing all the ram to see if you get beeps? That would be a pretty good indication of whether or not the board is bad as I am afraid it is.
Sorry I can't comment on that psu or involve myself with a search for something worse than came in the tower as the one you are looking at is. The tower will hold any standard psu from the looks of it though.


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## allastorm (Oct 29, 2011)

westom said:


> An listed a preferred and least expensive solution with reasons why. Why are recommendations from others better? BTW, that is not a rhetorical question.
> 
> Defined earlier: So why buy a $13 supply? If $30 is too low, then why is $13 better?
> 
> ...


Because this is what I decided to go with? I took apart my power supply, and like I said, got a second opinion from someone else. There was no noticeable fuse (meaning its not accessible), and Id rather save the TIME and RISK of taking apart something I know next to nothing about. Its not worth it. Id rather buy a cheap power supply and see if it fixes the problem. You are suggesting that I do something that requires some knowledge to troubleshoot the problem and a tool I dont posses. Im not comfortable with that, I think I made that clear already. Please understand this.

I asked about that particular unit because it had the same model number AND maximum wattage. All I need to know is if its compatible with my computer or not. I KNOW its cheap, and thats all I want. I just want my computer running, which is why I asked if anyone can refer me to one thats compatible and pretty cheap. Im not spending $60 on a unit, my computer is too old to invest that kind of money into. 

This is the same exact one that I have right now HP-P3527F3W ATX-250-12Z | Hp 5188-2622 250W Atx Power Supply And its $32, If I can find something comparable for cheaper that is what I am looking for (that lists all the specs). Any help on THIS is appreciated, thanks


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## Rich-M (May 2, 2007)

> This is the same exact one that I have right now HP-P3527F3W ATX-250-12Z | Hp 5188-2622 250W Atx Power Supply And its $32, If I can find something comparable for cheaper that is what I am looking for (that lists all the specs). Any help on THIS is appreciated, thanks


Your computer was underpowered from day 1 and power supplies degrade over time. It most likely damaged the rest of the components and the odds are it won't fix it anyway. There really are no computers today that should run with a 250 watt psu to begin with. Buying a better one you could still take it to a new pc later on as if you keep buying brand name pc's, you will always be able to use it anyway as they are always improperly powered .


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## allastorm (Oct 29, 2011)

Rich-M said:


> Your computer was underpowered from day 1 and power supplies degrade over time. It most likely damaged the rest of the components and the odds are it won't fix it anyway. There really are no computers today that should run with a 250 watt psu to begin with. Buying a better one you could still take it to a new pc later on as if you keep buying brand name pc's, you will always be able to use it anyway as they are always improperly powered .


Hmm... interesting to know for the future. My next desktop will be purely gaming, so I would expect to need a MUCH larger unit.

I did what you suggested and removed the RAM. I heard no beeps. This may be a stupid question, but how would it make any sort of beeping if its not getting power to begin with? I really hope its not the motherboard


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## westom (Aug 28, 2009)

allastorm said:


> You are suggesting that I do something that requires some knowledge to troubleshoot the problem and a tool I dont posses. Im not comfortable with that, I think I made that clear already. Please understand this.


 Exactly the point. As I said, we do this stuff first and foremost to learn. It requires you to have no training, and to make no conclusions (which you still do not grasp).

Reading three digit numbers (the most complicated part) means another who even designed this stuff can do all the complex stuff. Currently you are entertaining a feeling and conclusions only from assumptions. Best recommendation was that simple. Read the meter. Post numbers. Have a definitive answer in the very next reply. As I said repeatedly, a 13 year old can take those numbers and get better answers.

Opening the power supply was more complex and much more dangerous. Why do you fear the simple solution and then do something so complex and (in some cases) dangerous? I cannot think of anything riskier than what you did.

You only assumed wattage is relevant for reasons not explained. You were posting to obtain assistance and knowledge from the fewer who actually know this stuff. But then ignored it all. Troubling is even selecting a PSU that provides no numeric specs. And that costs too little to do what is required.

We do this stuff to learn from our mistakes. A defective power supply may even work for months or year before or while causing strange failures in other parts. Try that cheapest power supply. If you have problems, well, the meter can identify a defective or insufficient supply immediately - even months before it causes failures. Try the $13 supply. We learn by taking chances (ie opening that PSU) or making mistakes. A concept is called shotgunning.

You should have already learned plenty. Such as that protector remained inert (does nothing) for a voltage drop. How observation alone too often results in junk science conclusions. Numbers are essential for the more knowledgeable to provide useful assistance. And why missing specifications (that $13 PSU has none) are a first indication of inferior products (ie product dumping).


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## westom (Aug 28, 2009)

Rich-M said:


> There really are no computers today that should run with a 250 watt psu to begin with.


 Depends on how numbers are being promoted. For example, an HP PSU rated at 250 watts is often marketed by third party providers as a 350 watt supply. Neither lied. Both numbers can define the same supply. Another reason why wattage is not an acceptable parameter for selecting a supply. And why current for each DC voltage is essential.


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## Rich-M (May 2, 2007)

westom said:


> Depends on how numbers are being promoted. For example, an HP PSU rated at 250 watts is often marketed by third party providers as a 350 watt supply. Neither lied. Both numbers can define the same supply. Another reason why wattage is not an acceptable parameter for selecting a supply. And why current for each DC voltage is essential.


Quite true and I am not suggesting judging the psu by it's wattage either because I know the testing environments under which those numbers are calculated vary anyway and are seldom correct to begin with. Around here we use wattage only as a single standard after we suggest a qualified brand and model as they make the biggest difference in performance and lasting.
However a pc today with a pci-x video card we believe needs at least a 650 watt psu of quality so when I am stating that 250 is insufficient to run todays hardware desktop, I doubt that anyone in our staff would find fault with that. In addition to that the acceptable makers the forum endorses seldom make anything as small as 250 watts anyway.


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## Rich-M (May 2, 2007)

allastorm said:


> Hmm... interesting to know for the future. My next desktop will be purely gaming, so I would expect to need a MUCH larger unit.
> 
> I did what you suggested and removed the RAM. I heard no beeps. This may be a stupid question, but how would it make any sort of beeping if its not getting power to begin with? I really hope its not the motherboard


Having enough power to boot or perform certain functions is way different from enough power to provide beeps and most psu's unless totally gone would have enough power running to the board to allow beeps even if nothing else was running. So I guess if you have 0 signs of life then you would almost have to put in any psu to then remove the ram sticks and determine any beeps and we often time suggest seeing if one can borrow a known working psu from someone else if the user doesn't have one just for the purpose of testing.


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## allastorm (Oct 29, 2011)

Rich-M said:


> Having enough power to boot or perform certain functions is way different from enough power to provide beeps and most psu's unless totally gone would have enough power running to the board to allow beeps even if nothing else was running. So I guess if you have 0 signs of life then you would almost have to put in any psu to then remove the ram sticks and determine any beeps and we often time suggest seeing if one can borrow a known working psu from someone else if the user doesn't have one just for the purpose of testing.


Thats a good idea. The only thing I can think of is my boyfriends computer. Its a gaming computer and Im pretty sure its a VERY powerful PSU in terms of watts. Is there such a thing as having too much power, that would be damaging to the good unit or motherboard? I dont want to try it if it puts his power supply at risk. If you need more information about the working PSU to answer that, let me know and Ill try to get that info for you.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

No the PC will only draw what it needs to run.


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## Rich-M (May 2, 2007)

allastorm said:


> Thats a good idea. The only thing I can think of is my boyfriends computer. Its a gaming computer and Im pretty sure its a VERY powerful PSU in terms of watts. Is there such a thing as having too much power, that would be damaging to the good unit or motherboard? I dont want to try it if it puts his power supply at risk. If you need more information about the working PSU to answer that, let me know and Ill try to get that info for you.


In a word no having too much power will not by itself cause damage to anything.


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## allastorm (Oct 29, 2011)

Ok, we took a look at his computer, and it also has an ATX power supply. However, his computer is all new and organized with everything fastened down and he didnt want to take it appart unless absolutely necessary. I guess he is going to see if he can take the power supply off the old work computer... even if its a pretty old computer it should do the job of testing the motherboard/Ram, correct? I will have to wait until Tuesday night to do this.


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## westom (Aug 28, 2009)

allastorm said:


> I guess he is going to see if he can take the power supply off the old work computer... even if its a pretty old computer it should do the job of testing the motherboard/Ram, correct?


 All that work and the associated risk of damage to both machines is why one uses a $15 multimeter. One minute of labor. Disconnect and remove nothing. Posting the numbers here to learn at least double what that 'swap a power supply' test can report.


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## allastorm (Oct 29, 2011)

Boyfriends computer was a no go, there are so many things connected to it, we didnt want to take everything appart.

I managed to get my fathers PSU... but its from a very old computer and Im not sure if its compatible. Can someone please help me out to determine if its workable, or if I should put his computer back together before I go home.

Its from a Dell desktop, and on the PSU itself it says: 
Model HP-P2007F3 REV: a00
AC Input: 50-60hz, 100-127v~/6A
DC Output:
+5V
+3.3V
+5V FP

Max output power 200W

It looks similar, but some of the connectors seem different, Im not sure. The big connectors (I think its 20 pinns or something, it has 10 rows with 2 squares in each with different colored wires, but the 3rd pin down on the right has no wire connected to it, not sure what that means.

This PSU had a floppy drive connected to it, which can help date it in itself, haha. It came with Windows XP, I think its about 7-8 years old.

Please, if someone can tell me if I can test using this. I know my PSU clearly states its ATX where as this one confuses me. Thanks in advance


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

What model Dell?
Early Dell's used a non-standard supply.


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## allastorm (Oct 29, 2011)

wrench97 said:


> What model Dell?
> Early Dell's used a non-standard supply.


Its a Dell Dimension 2400


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## westom (Aug 28, 2009)

allastorm said:


> Its from a Dell desktop, and on the PSU itself it says:
> Model HP-P2007F3 REV: a00
> AC Input: 50-60hz, 100-127v~/6A
> DC Output:
> ...


 All PC power supplies - acceptable or not - will meet those numbers. You did not provide current for each voltage. Therefore no one can say if the supply is sufficient.

If you connect it and use a meter, then the next post will provide your answer without doubt. Any other answer without relevant numbers for each voltage can only be wild speculation.

An engineer who was designing this stuff long before the IBM PC existed has provided the cheapest, easiest, and best answer. Is that other supply too small? Numbers from six wires using the meter would answer that without doubt. And would have defined what is defective so many days ago. 

Do some calculations from numbers you have provided. Maximum input is 120 volts at 6 amps. From high school science, Watts equals Voltage times Amps. The supply will draw up to 720 watts. Why is it only rated at 200 watts? That was answered earlier in a post that says why watts says little useful. And why current for each voltage MUST be known.

Get a meter. It is sold even in Wal-Mart because the tool is less complex than a hammer. Then have a complete answer by next morning. No more speculation. By doing everything but what was recommended, what have you accomplished? You are exactly where you were a week ago. Zero progress.

The engineer who was even designing this stuff before the IBM PC existed cannot provide one useful answer when you short your help of the only relevant facts. You are doing everything but the least expensive, easiest, and best solution. Provided was how your problem was identified in one tenth the time and labor.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

The 2400 supply will work, the main harness will be 20 pin yours may be 24 that's ok the plug will fit and the last 4 will not have a connection, the plug only fits one way. Make sure to plug in the 4 pin square CPU power plug as well as the main 20 pin connector, you can leave the drives unhooked this will at leas tell you if the pc will boot.

Testing with a voltmeter will work most of the time but not 100% of the time if you have access to one use the instructions here> http://www.techsupportforum.com/forums/f210/test-your-power-supply-with-a-multi-meter-151526.html


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## westom (Aug 28, 2009)

wrench97 said:


> Testing with a voltmeter will work most of the time but not 100% of the time


 A multimeter will work 100% of the time. But that URL shows how to have insufficient information. Three digit numbers from a multimeter will report information that many do not appreciate. Even says if the 200 watt supply (that is also a 720 watt supply) is sufficient. An answer without doubt.

Serious facts are contained in a each three digit numbers. The citation's "5 volts on the purple wire" says too little. Explains why so many fail to appreciate a meter.

I never understand why so many fear something new; the best solution.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

We are not going to debate this on this thread stick to helping the op and drop the rest of the nonsense.


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## allastorm (Oct 29, 2011)

wrench97 said:


> We are not going to debate this on this thread stick to helping the op and drop the rest of the nonsense.


Thank you! Ive said countless times that I am not trying that approach, and I wish he would stop bringing it up over and over again. Its not what Im asking for, and its not helpful, even if the intention is to be helpful.

You, on the other hand, are being very helpful, thank you. I am going to test it out now and I will post the results shortly.


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## allastorm (Oct 29, 2011)

Great news! I did what you said, and when I pushed the power button it started up. Lights went on and the fan on the motherboard started spinning. It started beeping a lot, so I am assuming this means that my motherboard is OK?

Where should I go from here? Should I now do the test where I remove the RAM or is this sufficient to prove that its the power supply? Should I try hooking up everything and seeing if my computer can boot fully (hooking up the monitor and drives)?


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## Rich-M (May 2, 2007)

I would say you proved for now the issue is the power supply and time for a new one.


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## Rich-M (May 2, 2007)

http://www.techsupportforum.com/forums/f210/power-supply-information-and-selection-192217.html

Please read carefully, everything you need to know including suggestions is in this thread!


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

If I remember correctly this is a stock HP using integrated video correct?
This is what I would use for a replacement> Newegg.com - Antec NEO ECO 400C 400W Continuous Power ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply more costly than the Diablotek but it's a quality supply, where the Diablotek definitely is not.


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## allastorm (Oct 29, 2011)

wrench97 said:


> If I remember correctly this is a stock HP using integrated video correct?
> This is what I would use for a replacement> Newegg.com - Antec NEO ECO 400C 400W Continuous Power ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply more costly than the Diablotek but it's a quality supply, where the Diablotek definitely is not.


Yes, integrated video.

Thank you for that link, I really appreciate it. I wouldnt mind paying more now that I know for sure the power supply is the culprit, where as before I wanted cheap in case it wasnt the issue. If you think this is a reliable product, I can justify the $35, and its free shipping, so that is a plus.

Thank you so much for all your help! Hopefully Ill get the part in and it will work like a charm and you won't have to hear from me again, haha.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Let us know either way


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## allastorm (Oct 29, 2011)

Bad news... or maybe Im just doing something wrong.

Got the power supply. Put it inside my computer. I THINK I hooked it up right, but this new PSU has lots of cords and connectors. I hooked up the square 4 prong one (my PSU came with 2 of these that branch off from each other, so one is hooked up, the other is not), the 24 pin one, and I had 2 of the 4 pin connectors that are in a line. I just hooked them up to a random open connector on my PSU (it has several, some branch off from one another so not sure if this matters).

Pressed the power button and fans spin, lights come on... but it keeps on beeping at me. It doesn't boot and the monitor isn't reacting. Please tell me I forgot to hook up something and thats it D:


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## allastorm (Oct 29, 2011)

Just kidding... I'm a moron XD

Remember when I took out my RAM to test? I didnt put them in so they lock, they were just sort of sitting in there. Once I clamped them down, computer booted up perfectly fine.

So glad this nightmare is over! Now to get a new surge protector.

Thank you so much for all of your help. You have a great service and I know I can come here with any computer troubles and get lots of opinions and suggestions. I hope you don't have to hear from me again, but if you do... thats life I guess XD


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Good to hear it work out in the end


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