# Stihl 029 chainsaw tries to start but wont run!



## Texas rose (Nov 24, 2008)

Howdy folks, I borrowed a 029 Rollamatic Stihl chainsaw to cut down a couple of trees. This had been standing for a couple of years, so I checked the saw oil and filled up with new fuel mix of 25 to 1.

It cut down the trees OK but now it will only run for a few seconds, and wont rev up.

I took the plug out and it had a greyish coloured *paste* around the end of the electrode. 
I could see a piece of metallic substance on top of the piston. I managed to get the substance out of the plug hole, it appears to be a sort of flattish 8mmx4mm piece of aluminium/white metal particles stuck together. 

What I can see of the piston top is showing a fairly deep pitting right below where the plug electrode would be in the combustion chamber. 

The piston skirt looks OK from what I can see of it...where did the particles come from?

It did make a rattling/grating sound when coming to a stop when trying to get the engine to run past the tick-over stage, but still started and run about 4 times before I decided to look down the 'plug hole':sigh:.

Can anyone throw some light on the matter?:4-dontkno

Anyone have a workshop manual, Or, how do you get the engine out from the saw casing - I've got as far as taking the carb and ancillaries off, there's only the flywheel to remove - so I could check the innards...as you are probably aware the engine does not have a bolt-on cylinder head per say, but I have to investigate further, so, I need to get the engine bottom end off, and this cannot be done in situ!

Any help/tips you are able to give will be grately appreciated.

Thank you,

Texas rose. ray:


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## Tumbleweed36 (May 14, 2005)

Hi,

I own and use that same model chain saw. My guess is what you got out of there was a little carbon which does happen from time to time in those.

Your problem is that you have put too much oil in the gas. That chain saw (all Stihl Products) uses a a 50-1 oil/gas ratio. Therefore, you have plugged it up with oil (double what it requires). 

What I would suggest so you don't have to tear into it too much. Use a kitchen type baster and with straight gas, try to flush out the top of the cylinder through the spark plug. Empty the gas tank and flush it out with straight gas (no oil) until it is fairly cleansed. Then empty the flush gas out and put a small amount of fresh gas (no oil yet) in the tank, slowly (not enough to start) pull it through with the choke on, so as to infuse some gas in the intake line.

Then, empty out all the flush stuff and put some 50-1 gas/oil mixture in there (use HIGH TEST gas with a Stihl) and give it a go. If you can keep it running for a few seconds, it might just take off and be fine. I would bet that will take care of the issue unless it is just too gummed up to go. I would also guess it might run a little rough until all the oil is out of the carb and line to the cylinder. 

Do let us know how you come out with this.


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## Texas rose (Nov 24, 2008)

Thank you *Tumbleweed36*, 
the stuff I got out of the cylinder was definately of mettalic origin...I would love it to be a simple fix/remedy as you are suggesting ray:

There seems to be a wettish grey coloured deposit on the piston wall and barrel, which can be wiped off with a rag. The piston rings seem to be OK as far as I can see.

I would feel happier if I could get the piston out to investigate where the metallic foreign matter came from. 

At the rear of the flywheel, the casing is showing marks of having been rubbed by the edge of the flywheel, which suggests that the flywheel may be 'flopping about'. 

The problem seems to be in getting the flywheel off. There doesn't appear to any pre-drilled holes to attach a puller to. 

Once the flywheel is off, is it a simple matter to remove the engine from the saw casing?

Thank you for your input thus far.

Anybody got a book??

What's the chances that the engine is OK...after all it was starting, albeit packing in quite quickly each time? 

Texas rose. :4-dontkno


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## Tumbleweed36 (May 14, 2005)

I think it is quite likely fine if you will do what I mentioned. However, you have to make that choice. 

I think the thing you can wipe off with a rag is simply from the overabundance of oil you have used and being in the cylinder area has changed properties some so it does not appear to be oil. I also believe the small metalic pieces you speak of are from carbon deposits (they can appear as metal).

This is my third Stihl, so have worked with them quite a bit. This is my second model like you have. BTW, used to live in the middle of a woods, so used the heck out of the ones I have owned. Many days of cutting down maybe three or four large trees and cutting them up. Good luck on your task.


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## Texas rose (Nov 24, 2008)

Tumbleweed36 said:


> I think it is quite likely fine if you will do what I mentioned. However, you have to make that choice.
> 
> I think the thing you can wipe off with a rag is simply from the overabundance of oil you have used and being in the cylinder area has changed properties some so it does not appear to be oil. I also believe the small metalic pieces you speak of are from carbon deposits (they can appear as metal).
> 
> This is my third Stihl, so have worked with them quite a bit. This is my second model like you have. BTW, used to live in the middle of a woods, so used the heck out of the ones I have owned. Many days of cutting down maybe three or four large trees and cutting them up. Good luck on your task.


Thank you once again Tumbleweed36, I think I just needed assurance...a pat on the head, from someone with experience (you) to guide me on my way.

It's nearly bedtime here in the UK, so I'll have a further investigation in the morning. 

I'll try your tactics ... but I'll have to refit all the bits I took off first.

Bye the way, there was no blue smoke emitting from the exhaust to indicate excessive oilmix being burnt :normal:

I'll let you know how I get on, bye for now.

Texas rose :wave:


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## Tumbleweed36 (May 14, 2005)

BTW, if you need a manual, just google using this phrase: "Stihl 029 chainsaw manual" and it will return several places to download a manual. Hope that helps.


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## Texas rose (Nov 24, 2008)

Tumbleweed36 said:


> BTW, if you need a manual, just google using this phrase: "Stihl 029 chainsaw manual" and it will return several places to download a manual. Hope that helps.


Hello Tumbleweed36, have tried your suggestion, but no joy. 

Investigated further and found, as supected, that the top ring is seized owing to the piston scraping the bore wall and becoming damaged.

I managed to get the flywheel off and further discovered that both crank support bearing ball cages have broken up allowing the crank to 'flop about'. 

I don't know which came first the damaged bearings or the scraped piston?

My next problem is getting the saw brake off the end of the crank so that I can withdraw the crank from the casing to enable me to ascertain how much more damage has been caused.

I haven't told the owner of the saw...but I'll bet he'll say it was in perfect order when I borrowed it  even 'tho I have used it very little.

Thank you for the tip about the maual, I'll have a search and see what I can find.

Thank you for your continual help. 

Tr. :wave:


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Hi Tr and TW:wave:

This is all I found:

http://www.stihlusa.com/stihl_ownersmanuals/STIHL029_039_with_safety_manual.pdf

Hard to say why the saw suffered major failure. Only thoughts I have are:

Wrong oil in the gas.... must be 2cycle oil.

A very low grade of gas causing pre-detination (causing the pitting of the top of the piston and putting extreme stress on the "bottom end" of the engine.... failed bearings)

I don't know if spark plug will be a factor, but make sure he had the correct one installed.

Best of luck,
SABL


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave::wave: Whilst not much help to your problem now - I am just wondering if this damage isn't a further example of why 50:1 mix just doesn't seem to cut it as long term 2 stroke fuel.

The oldies were run on 30+:1 standard gasoline to standard 20w-30 engine oil. Now, these "little devils" are being run on a 50: 1 mix, albeit with a purpose designed 2 stroke oil. :sigh:

Nonetheless, the oldies tended to just plain ware out over time - catastrophic failures were pretty rare and generally attributable to a failure to add oil to the fuel - now, on a "50:1 diet", total engine failures seem to be much more common.

Texas Rose's damage certainly has all the symptoms of a major failure in the lube system - particularly as the damage is to both piston and bore and main bearings.

Maybe the answer is to "top up" the oil ration in the fuel :4-dontkno. I run my only 2 stroke on 40+:1, as plugs are cheaper than engine bores - but it's long out of warranty - so there is no risk of voiding anything


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## Texas rose (Nov 24, 2008)

SABL said:


> Hi Tr and TW:wave:
> 
> This is all I found:
> 
> ...


Hello SABL, yes I used a top quality 2 stroke oil, but I mixed it at 25:1 as I used the same mix in a strimmer.

It turns out that the piston head is not pitted after all, just got carbon deposit on it, but it has suffered a little from scoring, due to contact with the cylinder wall. I was going to clean the piston up and deglaze the cylinder and I think I would have got away with it, but, the crankshaft bearings ball cages have collapsed (some kind of plastic) allowing the balls to move around/congregate in their track....this may have been the cause of the piston damage? :4-thatsba
The last work this saw did was to trim a few side twigs off a bough I was going to cut up for logs. I'm wondering what the history of this saw is, but I am reluctant to contact the owner as I'm sure he will say it was like new before I borrowed it :heartlove

Thank you for your input SABL.

Texas rose :wave:


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave: Texas - if the bore, pistons & rings are OK-ish - then you might be able to get this "lill devil" going by simply replacing the ball bearings. 

Air cooled 2 strokes are pretty tolerant of "_not too serious_" bore damage, as their piston / rings and bore tolerances are quite loose.

The bearings are generally not very expensive and if you can get them out - any 1/2 decent bearing supplier will be able to read the spec off the side and provide you with a replacement. (Bearings are easy and generally don't have to be sourced from the OEM (Stihl) and are often much cheaper when bought from a bearing supplier):grin:

If the cages have collapsed - the existing bearings are completely shot - so don't attempt to run the engine whilst they are still in place.


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## Texas rose (Nov 24, 2008)

MrChooks said:


> :wave::wave: Whilst not much help to your problem now - I am just wondering if this damage isn't a further example of why 50:1 mix just doesn't seem to cut it as long term 2 stroke fuel.
> 
> The oldies were run on 30+:1 standard gasoline to standard 20w-30 engine oil. Now, these "little devils" are being run on a 50: 1 mix, albeit with a purpose designed 2 stroke oil. :sigh:
> 
> ...


Howdy Mr Chooks, as I said at the top I was running the saw on a 25:1 mix, so I would assume if anything, it ought to have been a bit blue smoky if the mix was too oily?

If I had used the proper 50:1 mix I think the saw may have failed earlier?

There was never any blue smoke when using the saw. Perhaps if the crank bearings had a metal cage instead of their plastic ones they may have lasted longer...incidently it appears - not having stripped them out 'cos I can't get the saw brake off yet - that the only damage is to the plastic bearing cages and not the balls/tracks/or races.

Perhaps the owner (my neighbour who is not living at home just now) was having trouble before I borrowed it? He certainly didn't mention anything untoward at the time of borrowing.

Thank you for your input ...now if you know how to get the saw brake off the end of the crank???:4-thatsba

Texas rose :wave:


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Any time you borrow something, it is ALWAYS in pristine condition.... YSR

The 25:1 is not an issue (I believe) and will only foul the plug... I don't think it would have any affect on the octane rating and cause pre-detonation (I think I spell it right this time). 

I checked the Stihl site and the tech/parts manuals are 4sale only and not online. 

Maybe the owner will forget you borrowed it??

You never know if the owner forgot to mix the gas in the first place.... some peeps never read the owner's manuals.


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## Texas rose (Nov 24, 2008)

MrChooks said:


> :wave: Texas - if the bore, pistons & rings are OK-ish - then you might be able to get this "lill devil" going by simply replacing the ball bearings.
> 
> Air cooled 2 strokes are pretty tolerant of "_not too serious_" bore damage, as their piston / rings and bore tolerances are quite loose.
> 
> ...


Stihl 029 chainsaw.

Howdy once again Mr Chooks, there's no way I can run the engine in the state it is in, I've only to get the saw brake housing off the crank and then I'll be able to get at the bearings/seals. 

I will clean up and use the original piston. I put a vernier gauge on the piston and it measured 48.82 mm diameter, and not 46mm. 

It has been suggested by a Stihl dealer that this piston (and Cylinder) could be a replacement from a 39 model Stihl as the original 29 model piston was 46mm as standard fitting. 

Texas rose :wave:


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave: Texas - I am no expert on chain saw brakes :sigh:- but if its locking mechanism on to the crank is not immediately obvious (like visible bolts / screws etc) - then it is likely to be a "pressed fit" and you will likely need a "gear puller" to remove it from the shaft.

Are there any bolt holes in the brake face that might be locating hole for a "gear puller" ??


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Hi Tr:wave:

Maybe Tw will take a peek at his Stihl and offer some advice. I don't own a chainsaw, or would look at it.

Hard to say what holds the brake housing in place...got a pic??

I will ask the kid and see if he or friends own a Stihl.


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## Texas rose (Nov 24, 2008)

MrChooks said:


> :wave: Texas - I am no expert on chain saw brakes :sigh:- but if its locking mechanism on to the crank is not immediately obvious (like visible bolts / screws etc) - then it is likely to be a "pressed fit" and you will likely need a "gear puller" to remove it from the shaft.
> 
> Are there any bolt holes in the brake face that might be locating hole for a "gear puller" ??


Mr Chooks, It appears to be a machined, 19mm tube type nut that holds it onto the crank. There is a tool that you screw into the plug hole which locks the piston which in turn allows you to loosen the brake assembly, but I don't know if it is a left or a right hand thread?

I can block the crank from turning as it is fully exposed. But I do not want to put enormous pressure on until I find out how it is mounted on the crank and whether it is R or L hand thread?

Texas rose :sigh:


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave: Texas - if it's a screw on fitting - you can work out the thread direction by looking at the engine rotation direction. The brake WILL cause the screw on brake plate to tighten when the brake is applied. 

So have a look at the shaft / brake and imagine that the brake plate is a nut and the shaft is a bolt that screws into it. - Then you should be able to see which way is tighten / loosen.

The problem you are likely to face is that use of the brake will have made the brake plate very tight on its thread - so you might need some (gentle) impact to free the locking threads and get it to turn. But be careful - too much impact can do damage :sigh:


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## Texas rose (Nov 24, 2008)

SABL said:


> Hi Tr:wave:
> 
> Maybe Tw will take a peek at his Stihl and offer some advice. I don't own a chainsaw, or would look at it.
> 
> Hard to say what holds the brake housing in place...got a pic??


Yes, I could get a pic, but I wouldn't know how to put it on here?

Tr


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## Texas rose (Nov 24, 2008)

MrChooks said:


> :wave: Texas - if it's a screw on fitting - you can work out the thread direction by looking at the engine rotation direction. The brake WILL cause the screw on brake plate to tighten when the brake is applied.
> 
> So have a look at the shaft / brake and imagine that the brake plate is a nut and the shaft is a bolt that screws into it. - Then you should be able to see which way is tighten / loosen.
> 
> The problem you are likely to face is that use of the brake will have made the brake plate very tight on its thread - so you might need some (gentle) impact to free the locking threads and get it to turn. But be careful - too much impact can do damage :sigh:


Mr Chooks, Yes, I will have a look in the morning, by your deduction it's likely to be a LEFT HAND thread, it's far too windy and cold out there tonight, and there is no heating in my workshop...BRRRRRR!

I've taken a couple of pics, but don't know how to put them on here.

I did read on the web somewhere that an air driven impact wrench was required to loosen off a similar brake, but it was not referring to a Stihl, but I do have such a tool.

Tr


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave: Texas - if you have an impact wrench - that would be perfect. :grin: They can be adjusted and give a multitude of smallish shocks to loosen the thread fit - and that is way better than big lumps of brute force.

At a 19mm thread - I would set the wrench up to the same (undoing) torque as you would use for a large car / small truck wheel stud and see how you go. If that isn't enough - just gradually increase the torque / impact.

Also before you start - squirt a bit of light oil / spray lube (WD 40 etc) into the thread. It works better if you do that a good few hours beforehand, so it has time to work its way along the threads.

Sorry - looks like a quick trip out to your cold shed tonight to give it a squirt


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## Texas rose (Nov 24, 2008)

MrChooks said:


> :wave: Texas - if you have an impact wrench - that would be perfect. :grin: They can be adjusted and give a multitude of smallish shocks to loosen the thread fit - and that is way better than big lumps of brute force.
> 
> At a 19mm thread - I would set the wrench up to the same (undoing) torque as you would use for a large car / small truck wheel stud and see how you go. If that isn't enough - just gradually increase the torque / impact.
> 
> ...


Just been and done just that! we'll see what tomorrow brings:wave:


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave:Texas - well done - you've read my mind - now you can have a little sit in front of your fire and get warm:smile:


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Impact wrenches are great.... I have them, too. Use them to get the blades off of the mower.

Best of luck Tr...you are in good hands with MrChooks!!


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## Texas rose (Nov 24, 2008)

Haven't been out yet just finished breakfast. 

I was wondering if the owner of the saw has been running it on neat gas? :4-thatsba

Because of a heart problem/operation he had 2 years ago, he has asked me to keep an eye on his property in his absence - which he has been refurbishing for the last 10 years...It's his Mothers old house, but he actually lives 4 hours drive away.

He last used the saw to cut through 20 5"x3" softwood floor beams about 4 years ago I seem to recall.

Now I have searched his home and outbuildings but cannot find any 2 stroke oil or mixing bottles...so what mix, if any, did he use?

He did have some gas in his shed, which he used in his lawn mower, but no 2 stroke oil.

Once I have repaired the saw I will ask him for more details....don't want to give him any more shocks...don't know if his heart will stand it :4-dontkno

Using the saw *without oil *is well within his capabilities


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Good detective work..... the damage might have been done, or at least well underway by the time you got the saw.


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

::wave: Texas - that'll do it to 2 strokes every time!!! They will start and run for a while; but as soon as the engine gets hot, it will inevitably seize up.:sigh:

And like SABL said - good detective work - 'cause everyone I know with 2 strokes, has a can of 2 stroke fuel and / or one of those infernal plastic mixing measures / pourers and a little bottle of 2 stroke oil laying about somewhere.


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## Texas rose (Nov 24, 2008)

MrChooks said:


> ::wave: Texas - that'll do it to 2 strokes every time!!! They will start and run for a while; but as soon as the engine gets hot, it will inevitably seize up.:sigh:
> 
> And like SABL said - good detective work - 'cause everyone I know with 2 strokes, has a can of 2 stroke fuel and / or one of those infernal plastic mixing measures / pourers and a little bottle of 2 stroke oil laying about somewhere.


Thanks Mr Chooks and Sabl, this guy owns a builders merchants so he is not short of cash, probably couldn't be bothered to get some 2 stroke oil, wanted to get on, and just used what he had available. Did I mention there wasn't a trace of chain lube oil in it either? 

The more I think about it, and knowing him, I think the *neat gas *could well have been the problem. :4-thatsba

The plastic? cages which were supposed to keep the ball bearings equally spaced out in the tracks, have shattered into a million bits, jiggering the oil seals in the process.

I have ordered new bearings and seals and they should be here in a couple of days, unless the Xmas post dictates otherwise.

Incidentaly, the chain brake/clutch assembly was - as you suggested - *Left Hand thread* and came off no bother with the air wrench. :laugh:

The only suspect parts are the piston skirt, it is scrubbed away down 1 side under the rings by about 2+mm, but I intend to clean and re-use it. Both piston rings are free and undamaged, so I think I'll get away with it. 

As soon as I get it put back together and it seems to be running OK, and after I cut my logs, I'll put it back in his property.

I wonder what I'll have trouble with next? :4-dontkno

Tr.


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave: A hearty well done to you Texas ray:- (don't it feel good when things go right for a change!!:sigh: and aren't air/impact wrenches just wonderful bits of gear!!:laugh:

Yes, the cages separate the balls in the bearing, so when they collapse, all the balls "gang up together" and the bearing seizes / jams. That, and the heat generated by running without without oil, would explain the shot oil seals on the shaft and on 2 strokes, these are critical. They are critical because rather than keep the oil in, they ensure that excessive air isn't drawn in along the shaft which would wreck the air / fuel mix in the 2 stroke engine.

With new bearings and seals, you will have solved the crankcase issues just fine.

On the piston skirt / rings, if it were your chain saw, I would suggest they be replaced also, BUT as it belongs to someone else and all you need to do is get it going OK, you should be OK with the old piston / rings - air cooled 2 strokes are pretty tolerant of less than perfect fits in the bore. Power might be off a little, but otherwise you should be OK - and after all, all you want to do is cut up some firewood and be rid of this thing!!:grin:


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Please remember that this an older person, like me. Two cycles oil are fairly new ( ok 40 years probably).

I still own a 1964-65 McCulloch, MAC 15, chain saw( 80.3 CI) since 2 cycle oil was new then we could also use 30-40 motor oil. My old Mac owners manual calls for 8 oz of 40 weight oil to one gallon of gas, i.e. 16:1.
If did not have 40 wt I would use 30 wt.

Blue smoke (exhaust) is good, in my opinion. I mix everything close to 30:1.
As it has been said, plugs are cheap.

He may have just dumped some motor oil in the gas.

BG


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## Texas rose (Nov 24, 2008)

MrChooks said:


> :wave: A hearty well done to you Texas ray:- (don't it feel good when things go right for a change!!:sigh: and aren't air/impact wrenches just wonderful bits of gear!!:laugh:
> 
> Yes, the cages separate the balls in the bearing, so when they collapse, all the balls "gang up' together.
> 
> ...



Yes, I wouldn't think twice about renewing the piston and cylinder if it were my own saw. Once I get it going I think I'll forgo cutting my logs, instead I'll shove it back in his house and cut the logs by bow saw.

Wouldn't want to tempt providence now would we? :wave:


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave: Absolutely agree with BG - I don't give a "rat's butt" for what the OEM makers say when they recommend these 50+:1 fuel / oil ratio mixes  - I still use the tried and tested formula my "old Dad" taught me - 32:1 and let the blue smoke blow!!!:grin:

The only concession I make, is that at the end of working the 2 stroke, I shut off the fuel and run the carb bowl dry before putting the 2 stroke to bed. 

It sure works for me, I have an old McCullough 18" chain saw (that I am reliably told, was the original chain saw used by Noah to build the arc!!:laugh and a newish (5 year old) 2 stroke hedge trimmer - and both have never missed a beat with that fuel formula and shut down procedure.

The only issue I would confess with the rich oil mix is that if I leave the engine idling for a long time (like 1/2 hour) it will tend to oil its plug a bit; but under working load - there is never a problem.


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Do they really have trees down under?? I think MrChooks uses the chainsaw for Roo hunting....... and the trimmer to shape up their tails.


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave: Yes SABL - we have trees down here - great big hard wood mothers at that - but I have found the McCullough an absolute whizz at convincing my recalcitrant lemon tree to behave - all I do is put the chain saw down beside it for a little while, don't even need to start it up!! - and it fruits its little head off!!!!!:laugh::laugh:


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Off Topic.... but......

Is it there that they found them gigantic hardwoods buried in the ground?? And worth a fortune??

Lemon trees..lucky you. It's hard enough to get a peach tree to grow here.


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## Texas rose (Nov 24, 2008)

MrChooks said:


> :wave:
> On the piston skirt / rings, if it were your chain saw, I would suggest they be replaced also, BUT as it belongs to someone else and all you need to do is get it going OK, you should be OK with the old piston / rings - air cooled 2 strokes are pretty tolerant of less than perfect fits in the bore. Power might be off a little, but otherwise you should be OK - and after all, all you want to do is cut up some firewood and be rid of this thing!!:grin:


I have been having a battle with my conscience all day, and I have decided to renew the piston after all. But I'm going to clean the cylinder bore - it's definately re-usable - so there!

Another thing that bothers me slightly, is that the new bearings will have metal cages and not the plastic? ones that were fitted originally. 

What do you think, will the metal ones be OK on the gas/oil mix, or will they get hotter, quicker, than the plastic ones or am I just being paranoid? 

Another slight niggle, you know the plastic boss (a brownish colour) that locates on the crankshaft between the crank oil seal and behind the chain brake device, which drives the chain oil pump worm? Is this held in place by the tightness of the chain brake assembly and not by it's own device?

Tr:wave:


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave: Texas - "you old softie!!" - a new piston!!

Yes, - the cages aren't the real wear surface in a ball race - it is the inner race, the balls themselves and the outer race that are the ware surfaces. The cages merely keep the balls from ganging up together. My guess is they only use the nylon / plastic cages 'cause they are cheaper for the OEM.

If you are going to replace the piston, then you will very likely need new rings as well :sigh:- Hopefully, you can reuse the gudgeons and big ends on the con rod.

Texas - given the circumstances (engine seems to have been run without oil by the owner), if it were me, I think would be very tempted to reassemble and see how the thing runs with the original piston 1st - but I guess I am a tightwad!!


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## Texas rose (Nov 24, 2008)

MrChooks said:


> :wave: Texas - "you old softie!!" - a new piston!!
> 
> Yes, - the cages aren't the real wear surface in a ball race - it is the inner race, the balls themselves and the outer race that are the ware surfaces. The cages merely keep the balls from ganging up together. My guess is they only use the nylon / plastic cages 'cause they are cheaper for the OEM.
> 
> ...


Hello 'tightwad', not as tight as me...I haven't actually bought the new piston yet - it comes complete with new rings gudgeon pin etc, - but I have contacted the supplier with the relevant sizes/part numbers of the old piston and am awaiting his comments. The whole thing complete including P&P is £25, so for that I can buy peace of mind.

Bye for now, :wave:


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## Texas rose (Nov 24, 2008)

*Re: Stihl 029 chainsaw tries to start but wont run! UPDATE*

*UPDATE :*

The saw is up and running, cut the tree and sawn it up for logs...didn't want to have to borrow it again after the owner got it back 'case he knacked it up again.:4-thatsba

Still haven't told him of the repairs. :1angel:

Thank you all for your help and patience.

Texas rose :wave:


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave: A hearty well done to you Texas ray:ray:

I suggest you cut enough wood to last a while - that way you will be OK for a good while 

Being serious for just a moment - how about leaving a couple of gallons of proper 2 stroke fuel with the saw when you return it - at least that way its _"mechanically challenged owner"_ may put it on its correct diet - so when you need to borrow it again - you wont have to do a complete overhaul 1st:sigh:

Well done again and we were all pleased to help where we could


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## Texas rose (Nov 24, 2008)

MrChooks said:


> :wave: A hearty well done to you Texas ray:ray:
> 
> I suggest you cut enough wood to last a while - that way you will be OK for a good while
> 
> ...


Hello MR Chooks, happy new year to you and thanks for your kind words; I don't think the owner will ever use the saw up in this neck of the woods again, as he had finished with the 'woody' bits of his house refurbishment some 4 years ago. 
If I were to leave some fuel mix it would probably go stale before he ever had cause to use it again. 
He only ever had 2 trees that needed felling, and I've already attended to them. 
The wife would not let me use the chainsaw today (still a couple of thick branches to cut up) as she thought new years day should be a 'quiet time'. I've been using a hand operated pruning saw to keep her happy...but it dont arf take a lot of hard graft to cut a few logs. :sigh:

Tr


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave: Hello Texas - good point on the fuel and a very happy New Year to you too.


Oooouuuch - on the hand cutting of the logs - only doubly so, when you know you could be using a power saw if only the _noise police _would let you 

I have the same problem - am not allowed to mow the lawn before lunch time coz _"she who must be obeyed _" says it's not dignified to do so in the morning :sigh: but it's OK for me to do it in the afternoon, when the temperature is nudging the mid 30s C - sort of like mowing the grass inside a sauna by then


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## robertjinnes (Jan 18, 2009)

TEX, a common cause of cylinder failure with scoring just happened to you. Bearing failure, one or both sides preventsthe crank shaft seals from not maintaining an airtight crankcase. Air is sucked in, the air fuel ratio goes lean and you overheat the cyliner quickly. 25:1 oil didn't cause it. Owner shouldn't find fault with you.

be honest, work with him and he should be happy you are honest and willing to do repairs.

bob the Treeman


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## Texas rose (Nov 24, 2008)

robertjinnes said:


> TEX, a common cause of cylinder failure with scoring just happened to you. Bearing failure, one or both sides preventsthe crank shaft seals from not maintaining an airtight crankcase. Air is sucked in, the air fuel ratio goes lean and you overheat the cyliner quickly. 25:1 oil didn't cause it. Owner shouldn't find fault with you.
> 
> be honest, work with him and he should be happy you are honest and willing to do repairs.
> 
> bob the Treeman


Thank you robertjinnes for your reply, the owner hasn't surfaced for about an 18 month period yet. When he does I will approach him over the saw - and other matters, but as his health is poor I may never see him again.

The repairs have been done and all is tickety boo at this time. :wave:

Texas rose.


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## Texas rose (Nov 24, 2008)

*UPDATE*

Howdy folks, just to update the kind souls that helped me through this saw repair. 

The owner finally turned up a few weeks ago, unbeknownst to me. 

I had an occasion to 'borrow' his chain saw again and went to get it from his property, only to find it had gone.

Last weekend he reappeared so I asked him where the chainsaw had gone.

You'll never guess what he said!!:4-dontkno

'I gave it away because I could never get it to run properly' :sigh::sigh:

Texas rose


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

Texas - After all that I can't believe it. Rebuilb the engine, chasing up parts and all the time & effort to fix the thing - *AAAaagggghhh* :upset:

Maybe you should just give up on 2 stroke chain saws and buy your self a cheapie electric job!!!!!:sigh:


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## Texas rose (Nov 24, 2008)

MrChooks said:


> Texas - After all that I can't believe it. Rebuilb the engine, chasing up parts and all the time & effort to fix the thing - *AAAaagggghhh* :upset:
> 
> Maybe you should just give up on 2 stroke chain saws and buy your self a cheapie electric job!!!!!:sigh:


Hello Mr Chooks, how goes it?

I've got a tree which needs surgery this Winter, but I'm going to get my log merchant, who is also a tree surgeon, to have a look at it. This tree is overhanging my greenhouse so will have to be trimmed with precision. Knowing my luck...or lack of it, it would be sods law for the greenhouse to go 'tits up' if I were to try and lop the branches.

The electric chain saw seems like an excellent option for logging at home.

Tr :laugh:


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## pat mcgroin (May 1, 2009)

Sad news indeed.
As for the electric saw idea, I bought a Homelite 7 inch pole saw late last year and really ran it hard this year. The electric saws have come a long way. This one is on its 5th blade and still going strong.
If my 20 inch goes down I may get a electric just for the firewood.


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave: These l'ill eletric chain saws have one great maintenance advantage - when / if they act up - all you need do is take hold of the power cord and swing the thing round and round over your head - once you get the rotatational speed high enough - simply let go of the cord and all maintenance is complete!!!!:laugh::laugh: All that needs be done then is go down to the store and buy anotherie!!

Like Pat says - I have had a l'il Makita 12 inch that I use for light trimming and it is too scared to play up!!! 'cause it know what will happen.

Texas - regarding the tree over the glass house - You are right - I know if it were me - the 1st branch would crash stright thru it:sigh:


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