# viper 5704 remote start issues



## outsideworld987

I have a 2007 Hyundai sonata that I installed a viper 5704 which is the 2012 version of the 5901. I installed per wiring diagram and install sheet. The only thing I did not install per tech sheet is the starter kill. I have had problems in the past with cutting the wire so decided to just attach the starter side of the starter wire from the brain. here is my issue, I changed the factory settings over to automatic transmission and the remote start worked as it should. I pushed the brake and it deactivated as it should. I then restarted the remote start and tried to put the key in and hit the brake to have it switch to the key. this caused the remote start to engage the starter constantly. the brake would not shut it down, it would not shut down with the remote, it would not shut down with the hood pin grounded as it should. nothing would make the starter turn off. I disconnected both battery cables to shut down but still kept running off the alternator. I ended up having to pull out the fuse from the brain before it would turn off. I’m stumped on this one as to what the problem could be. Other then my starter running for 3 min while this was going on there doesn’t seem to be any other issues. everything else worked as it should. this model has the tack sense on it that is enabled from factory. I programmed the tack wire on the system also. I’m not sure if maybe I need to turn off that tack sense off as maybe it was not running of the tack wire and thought that it needed to try and start the car even though it was running. they way this is designed is that it will run the starter until it senses a voltage change and then shut off. if it was already running it would in theory not have a change so it would keep running? I really don’t want to have this happened again as I don’t think that my starter can handle another time like that. I’m amazed that it still works now after this. any help is much appreciated. 

thanks in advance


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## outsideworld987

Newest update, I spent another 2 hrs checking over the alarm last night. I believe that all the wiring is correct. I went to put the fuse back in and the car tried to remote start as soon as I did. I then pulled all fuses, main unit and ignition harness fuses and let it set for 20 min thinking that maybe it would reset. Put all back in and as soon as I got the main brain fuse in it tried to remote start again and still running the starter constantly. I took the ignition fuses out and just put in the main fuse so I could reprogram the brain. I set all back to default and then went back in and changed it to automatic transmission and set it to tack only “ not using the virtual tack at all”. Exited programming and then learned the tack one more time. light stayed on saying tack was successfully learned. Then put the ignition fuses back in. as soon as I got the fuses back in the car tried to start again. There is no contact points on the harness that are touching each other. All ends are soldered and taped off. My thought is that there is something wrong in the brain that is making it trigger itself like the internal relays are stuck open? Also with this conclusion it would make sense since the alarm itself on a no start should shut itself down and then try and restart, not just to run the starter until it starts and the brake and hood pin do not shut down the alarm. I have installed a good 20 remote starts and never came across this problem. Bad brain?? Any thought or opinions would be helpful. 

Thanks


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## jaggerwild

outsideworld987 said:


> Newest update, I spent another 2 hrs checking over the alarm last night. I believe that all the wiring is correct. I went to put the fuse back in and the car tried to remote start as soon as I did. I then pulled all fuses, main unit and ignition harness fuses and let it set for 20 min thinking that maybe it would reset. Put all back in and as soon as I got the main brain fuse in it tried to remote start again and still running the starter constantly. I took the ignition fuses out and just put in the main fuse so I could reprogram the brain. I set all back to default and then went back in and changed it to automatic transmission and set it to tack only “ not using the virtual tack at all”. Exited programming and then learned the tack one more time. light stayed on saying tack was successfully learned. Then put the ignition fuses back in. as soon as I got the fuses back in the car tried to start again. There is no contact points on the harness that are touching each other. All ends are soldered and taped off. My thought is that there is something wrong in the brain that is making it trigger itself like the internal relays are stuck open? Also with this conclusion it would make sense since the alarm itself on a no start should shut itself down and then try and restart, not just to run the starter until it starts and the brake and hood pin do not shut down the alarm. I have installed a good 20 remote starts and never came across this problem. Bad brain?? Any thought or opinions would be helpful.
> 
> Thanks


 If when you hit the brake pedal and it does not shut down but tries to re start while running, for one the brake wire is not hooked up correctly. If it is it should see a positive when the break pedal is pressed ONLY(test the parking lights while making sure of the wire)! Lets try this, what wires are not hooked up on the unit? The hood pin, I never hook up. you can solder all the connections, but if they are wrong guess what you will have to cut or un solder them. I'd check the internal relay wiring as it is acting as if its not seeing something that it should, also you don't have to pull all the fuses just unplug the main wires harness(molex) with the fuses from the brain. Do that pull the brain, no wires connected hold it up to your nose and smell. If something is wrong you will be able to tell from the smell of the brain, you will smell fried electronics's. Other than that the only way to tell is to swap out the brain with a known good one, but if the install is wrong you will be burning out another brain..........
with the brain unplugged use a test light to prob the wire harness, CHECK EACH WIRE TO SEE THAT IT ONLY SEE'S WHAT IT SHOULD-WHEN IT SHOULD: Example STATER WIRE(SHOULD ONLY SHOW POWER DURING CRANK). Proceed from there one wire at a time, check each one. If you had done twenty of these, you would know to just pull the brain not the fuses that in itself tells me enough.


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## outsideworld987

First I would like to thank you as I do appreciate your input but I really don’t think you can judge my knowledge based on that I pulled the fuse rather than the plug. I mean really it takes me 1 sec to pull out a fuse and if you have ever tried to pull the ignition harness out of a viper you would know that it is not as easy as it sounds. The old vx791 and the 160’s had a small ignition ribbon that went to the relay pack and then had larger gage wires that went out the other end of the relay pack. On those yes it was very easy to pull the harness off the brain. On this model however the relay pack for the starter is internal on the brain so it uses the large harness plug right from the brain. And with on hand upside down under the dash it is not that easy. I was at one time a MECP certified installer at best buy. Not sure if that will hurt or help my credibility..:smile:.. My brake wire meters at +12v only when brake is depressed. The first time that I remote started the car it worked fine and shut down with the brake as it should have. It was not until the second time that I remote started it that it started the problem. I did meter all wires before I soldering them. I’m doing this from memory so if I miss something I’m sorry, but I have the trunk release, 12v constant that is soldered to the 12v constant in the ignition harness before the fuse, siren output, chassis ground which has the neutral safety soldered into it before grounded and is grounded at the same spot as the car instrument cluster is grounded, parking light wire negative and jumper switched to negative polarity, factory alarm disarm, lock and unlock output, ignition one wire, accessory 1 wire I did opt not to use the 2nd accessory wire with relay since it only powers the radio and outlets in the car, starter output, main 12v constant which has the 12v main brain wire and 12v ignition power wire soldered into it before the fuse, tack wire, brake shutdown wire, I did not hook up the hood pin but did try and ground it on the battery to shut down the unit which was oddly unsuccessful. I have the brain pulled and will smell it tonight to see if I can smell anything from the unit. I did dbl check and retest all wires before posting on the forum my issue to make sure it wasn’t something that I missed. I am planning to have someone else take a look at it this weekend that is familiar with the new viper alarms to see if I did in fact wire it wrong.


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## outsideworld987

I did forget to mention that I went thru it last night and tried this to see if it would work. I checked all the wiring that goes from the ignition harness on the remote start to the car ignition harness. I also dbl. checked to make sure that the correct wires were going to the correct spot on the ignition harness and they were. I then inspected the wires from the remote start to make sure that there was not anything touching, thou there shouldn’t have been. All the connections where striped soldered and then taped and then I taped them all together the whole length minus the 12 in or so that I was working with. I then cut the starter wire of the remote start. I then put the unit fuse in to put power to the brain. At that time for some reason the unit pooped my trunk and turned on my parking lights. Not sure what happened since this didn’t do this before I had the whole issue. I then replaced the ignition fuses to put power to the ignition side of the unit. Doing so the alarm when in to start mode. When I put my volt meter on the starter wire it shows a 12v constant “which was not there until the fuse was added”. I then put the key in the ignition and started the car and checked again and still had 12v on the starter wire. When I removed the key to shut the car back down the car then stayed running. To me it seems that the remote start is stuck in remote start mode and or starting mode to where it will not disengage the relay in the unit to tell it to stop trying to start. I will note that all the wires where attached for the 2 days before I got the tack wire hooked up and programmed before trying to remote start and there were no issues what so ever. The issue did not start until I tried to remote start the unit after one successful remote start. I hope this will help give you enough information to help and or see what is going on as I know that it is hard beings you can’t look at the car. All the information here tells me that there is something wrong in the brain that it is not triggering or disengaging the relay pack as it should.


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## home-brew

If you haven't figured this out, or figured out if it's the brain, it's pretty simple to do. 

Take the brain out of the car and unhook everything. use a battery to ground and also send 12v to the correct 12v constant wires into the brain. I believe there are a few so do this one at a time starting with the heavy wires. once you have 12v going to the brain check the starter output... if there is 12v, something is wrong with the brain. If there is no power keep adding 12v to all the constant inputs and retest each time. If at any point you get 12v at the starter out there is an issue with the brain. If not, then it's likely something in your wiring. 

To narrow it down do a reinstall but test after each wire and avoid using any of the aux wires... only use the wires that are required for the autostart. Also, make sure to test each safety as you hook it up. 

Hope this helps. 

Ps. how do you change the viper system from the default " manual mode " to " automatic mode "


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## outsideworld987

It will be a busy week but I will try and get some testing in to see if I can figure out what it wrong. I’m going from memory but I believe that on this one it is alarm its menu #3, item #1, option #2 to get it to automatic transmission mode. Default on this one was manual transmission mode. It should say in your book which menu it is if you have a different model. to enter programming mode you will either have to have the doom light supervision mode or door trigger hooked up. or if you don’t you can ground the door trigger to make it think that it is hooked up as you have to have the door open to enter program menu’s.


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## home-brew

thanks for the response. It was right there on the setup sheet the whole time. i found the info on that sheet to be so useless that I had given up looking at it. 

I skimmed over this the first time I looked at your post as I was on my way out and was mid install myself. It seems to me that you know what you are doing WAY more than me ... sometimes one can over look the obvious or just have a bad day. 

I'm not sure what you mean by " have had problems in the past with cutting the wire so decided to just attach the starter side of the starter wire from the brain. "

I believe there is actually supposed to be a safety so that if the engine is running the car won't engage the starter. once it has started the ignition wire (pink) acts as output input and if it is getting input voltage it should not send anything to the starter wire. Also I believe it has a max starter cycle of around 2 seconds to prevent starter grind/damage. It comes pre set but can be changed. It's in the set up ...right under where I didn't look for how to change from manual to auto. 

From my understanding of the remote starter there should be no constant 12v out and that would be required to cause the issue that you are having. I guess the bottom line is something in the wiring or brain is causing the starting circuit in the car to activate. 

have you set it back to manual mode and see what happens?


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