# 95 chevy 350 no spark no fuel



## meganmay

The truck was running in park, went to put it into drive and it died. It cranks over and wont start. Put gas into carb didnt start, no spark. Replaced dist. cap, rotor, and ignition manual. Still it just cranks. Fuel gauge says full now instead of half, and the batter gague does not show power when key is on even though engine can still crank and lights still work. So it cranks with no fule or spark and the gauges are messed up. Any ideas? If it is a bad fuel pump why would it not spark or run when we manually put fuel into it? Not a bad starter because it cranks over. Bad wires, but why then no fuel? Electrical problem with the signal to the fuel pump and ignition module? A fuse or relay? Please help!! Truck is in the woods and snow!!


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## emilio garcia

sounds like youre distrubtor is not truning or timing chain is out. easy way to find out is trun engine over to tdc if rotor does not point to number one wire replace timing chain and both gears. good luck let me know


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## mack1

Hi meganmay and welcome to TSF,

In the woods and snow is a bad place to work. You need to determine if the problem is fuel or ignition. Not likely both. 

For ignition test, pull a spark plug and lay it on the metal engine block. Connect the plug wire to it. Get someone to try the starter while you watch the spark gap. You should see a spark across the gap that is blue. If no spark, the problem is ignition, so do some more work there. If there is spark but it is a weak red spark, then it is iffy. (might ignite fuel mixture and might not)

For the fuel test, use spray can starter fluid. I recall that the 95 model is fuel injected, not carb. Pull the large intake hose loose at the intake manifold and spray the starter fluid in there. Use short bursts, don't fowl out the spark plugs with fuel. If it trys to start, the problem is in the fuel system. You should be able to hear the intank mounted fuel pump run for about 1 and 1/2 seconds each time you turn the ignition switch from off to on (not all the way to start) Open the door, lean out, and listen as you do the off/on trick. The pump only runs continuosly when the engine starts. 

If you can determine which, ignition or fuel, is the problem, we can better help you.

If you could get a friend to tow you out of the snow and woods, it would sure be easier for you....but I guess you already know that. 

Best regards,
Mack1


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## meganmay

We tried ti get it to fire by manualy putting fuel in and it didnt work. Checked for spark already and there is none at all. When we crank it over and do not hear the fuel pump and the rotar has turned/ is in a different spot after it was cranked over. It was running in park, then when we switched it to drive it died.

Thanks,

Megan


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## mack1

Hi Megan,



> When we crank it over and do not hear the fuel pump and the rotar has turned/ is in a different spot after it was cranked over.


I think you did the fuel test wrong. At the ignition switch, only move the key from Off to On. NOT all the way to start. You can't hear the pump if the starter is turning the engine over. Tell everyone to be quiet and listen for the pump under the truck where the tank is. It only pumps for about a second and a half then stops even while the key is at ON. Turn the key back off then back on to get another another short pumping action from the pump.

On the rotor position. It turned and that is good. Did you look at the spark plug gap to see if it was sparking while the distributor was assembled and the engine was turning over? 
The plug must be laying on metal with the plug wire attached. Watch the plug gap to see the spark as the engine is trying to start. Pressure will come spewing out of the empty spark plug hole as you do this test. If you have a spare plug, just use it. Just remove one of the plug wires and connect it to the spare. 

Now, another way to do emilio's rotar position test.
1. Remove the spark plug from number one cylinder's location. Number one is the cylinder on the driver's side at the front of the engine.
2. Mark the position of number one's plug wire on the distributor under the cap. Remove the distributor cap.
3. Put your finger in the spark plug hole and get someone to jog the engine over (short jogs). You will feel the pressure pushing against your finger and spewing past it when the piston is moving up in the compression stroke. 
4. At the very top of that stroke, look for the timing mark that Emilio mentioned. It is on the harmonic balance at the bottom of the engine. The harmonic balance is behind the very bottom pulley. There will be a metal tab or pointer that extends over or points to the balance wheel. One of the marks is top dead center (the other marks near it are for degrees before top dead center)
5. At this point, look at the rotar button and see if it is just reaching the point where you made the mark on the distributor housing at number one's wire. If they match, the timing should be OK. 

Hope this helps. I probably told you some things that you already knew. 

Post back and tell us how it goes.

Best regards,
Mack1


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## meganmay

What would cause the timing to be off if it just was running before we shifted to drive? We were driving around for 2hrs parked for a few seconds, then put it back into to drive and it killed it. I will get timing checked today though, and we did put the wire up to the block and checked for spark several times before and after the repairs and still no spark.


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## SABL

I think the lack of spark is the issue...don't know the mileage you have. 

I will have to say that in all my years I have rarely seen timing issues unless the timing is run by a belt. Your timing is run by chain and gears....unless GM is using nylon gears I doubt you have a timing problem. 

My vehicle has 236K miles and timing is the last thing I worry about. It is a '95 also and what I am concerned with is the electrical connections. Seeing how you are dealing with moisture and snow the first check is with connections at the distributor... the 3 wire lead is from the Camshaft Position Sensor and should be checked along with the connection at the CPS itself.

I have had problems at the Power Distribution Box as well...

It could be the coil....

What I am going by is the assertation of lack of spark.

I would follow Mack1's advice for a place to start. He is a very trusted friend.

Keep us informed and good luck,
SABL


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## mack1

Hi Megan,

Till now, I have tried to come up with tests that you can perform in the field without having to crawl under the truck. In the woods and in show is not a good place to trouble shoot major electrical problems. I can think of no relation with shifting from park to drive that would cause failure of fuel and ignition. It could be that snow got into the wiring under the truck and shorted something out. (like the fuel pump) Hard to look at that in the snow. If the fuel pump worked, you could rule most of that out. If it would have started with spray starter fluid, that would rule out all the ignition problems. If you had a weak fuel pump, you could try hitting the bottom of the gas tank with a rubber hammer or flat board and cause it to pump harder. Low fuel pressure will keep it from running. The spray starter fluid would have given a good indication of that without measuring the fuel pressure with a guage. The fact that the rotor button moved when you cranked the engine over says that your timing chain is not broken, but might have slipped several notches. That will be born out if the rotor didnot point to number one cylinder at top dead center on the compression stroke. 

Trouble shooting your problem is the best way to fix it. Changing parts is expensive and often of no help and can cause you induce some new problems. You may have some blown fuses. If you do, that might point to the problem. Pull them out one at a time and look at them. You can see the little metal strip in the plastic fuses. If you can see that the strip is in tact, the fuse is most likely good. If you have a volt/ohm meter, you can check the resistance of the fuses to make sure. Zero ohms would, of course, mean that the fuse was OK.

If you would like to pursue trouble shoot the electrical circuits, you will need electrical prints. If you could post some of them here, we can tell you where to measure for voltages. You would be able to go to the coil circuit and see if you have the proper voltages there to get spark. If not, where to measure back upstream to find the problem. 

Let us know what you find.

Wishing you the best of luck,
Mack1


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## meganmay

Thanks for the help. The truck is lifted so no problem getting under it lol. I got it towed home today. I will have to do checks on it tomorrow since its below 32 out here right now. The milegage on the truck is less thank 130k and the guy I bought it from said that it was not the original motor. 
Things to check tomorrow is to make sure that the timing is not off. Check to see if fuel pump engages when key is turned on but not in start position. See if the distributor/coil is getting power when the key is on. Thanks for all the help and I will keep you posted on what the results are for tomorrow.


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## meganmay

Well I still dont know whats wrong with it. Fuel pump doesnt engage when key is on. Got into some wiring under stearing colom and found a wire that was burnt, fixed that, still doesnt work. Thinking it might be the ignition wiring. Who knows what to do.


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## mack1

meganmay said:


> Well I still dont know whats wrong with it. Fuel pump doesnt engage when key is on. Got into some wiring under stearing colom and found a wire that was burnt, fixed that, still doesnt work. Thinking it might be the ignition wiring. Who knows what to do.


Hi megan,

Looks like you have more that one problem. Do you or your associate know how to use a volt/ohm meter? You might be right that the problem is at or near the igniton switch. The wire that burned....did you smell or see smoke when you shifted from park to drive back when the truck died? If not, did it occur while your were working on the truck? The wire number and color of the wire would normally show on the prints where the wire came form and where it went. Note that not many wires can be shorted out to the extent that they burn the wires. Most wires are protected by fuses. 

We need more information to help you. Electrical prints are almost required to find the problem. On few occasions can you find the trouble without them. 

To find electrical prints, go to the local library and see if they have a copy of the motor manual for your truck. You can get a maintenance manual for it at your local parts store. You can go to Alldata and subscribe to their service. Here is their link:

http://www.alldatadiy.com/buy/index.html 

It will cost $26.95 if you are not already subscribed, else it would be $16.95. (they went up a dollar since I used them last) 

My local parts place sells Haynes repair manuals, so I use them. ( I don't recall the price) The best source for electrical prints has been alldata for my vehicles. You can also get all the parts locations and other data there. You can download the prints and other data in jpg format. The data will be specifically for your make and model, so if you subscribe, be sure to enter the right data.

You can get an inexpensive volt/ohm meter (multimeter) at your local discount store for about $15.00.

I'll be glad to help you trouble shoot your electrical system and give you guidance on using the multimeter if you need. I can also give you instructions on how to post the prints here. 

Best regards,
Mack1


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## SABL

Hiya Mack1:wave:

I just picked up a manual for my Cherokee..... it was a Chilton.

List=$25.09
My price=$19.59

I expect most manuals will be about $20

A repair manual is very helpful and well worth the cost. I could have repaired my Jeep without one but I like to have the reference material at hand just in case.


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## mack1

Hi SABL,

Got any prints you could post to help Megan? 
Also, how good are the electric prints in the Chilton manuals? I haven't used one of their's in years. I miss the old blue motor manuals you used to be able to buy, don't remember who published them.

Have a nice day,
Mack1


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## SABL

Don't think I have any Chevy manuals....I'll look.

I'm a little early today..... haven't read the police reports yet.

I'm thinking on what might be the issue with Meganmay's truck. Don't know if it might be the connections at the solenoid or if something disturbed the ignition wires in the area of the shifter linkage.


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## SABL

Hey Mack1:wave:

Just looked at the Chilton book..... pretty nice elec diagrams. Might need a magnifying glass.

I did find a Chevy van manual that covers the '95 models. They generally use the same color codes in the circuitry, I think. I'll double check the diagrams of the vans and the pu's and see if the same devices use the same colors. I might be wrong:4-dontkno

Most of my manuals are Ford..... GM got put of my price-range years ago. The last new van I bought was in '93:
Chevy van= $21,000+
Ford van= $15,000 after rebate and negotiations

I'll see if I can find some clues for Meganmay.... I'll be back

OOPS almost forgot..... I do remember the old Motor's Manuals. Big hardbacks.... last ones I seen was from the '60's. Lotsa fingerprints on them.....from the oil and grease


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## mack1

> I did find a Chevy van manual that covers the '95 models. They generally use the same color codes in the circuitry, I think. I'll double check the diagrams of the vans and the pu's and see if the same devices use the same colors. I might be wrong


Hi SABL,

I bet they will work. If Megan hasn't given up on us, maybe we can save her a few bucks and use those. Lets wait for her reply.

Good show and bests regards,
Mack1


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## SABL

I am showing a 20a fuse, but not the fuse #. My book does not show a Power Dist Center under the hood.... shows for the '96's...sounds about right. Let me see what I can find.


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## SABL

Been over 1yr since I have tried my scanner.:grin:


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## supernewb

I would use a multi-meter or a test light and test your ignition switch itself. Sounds like it could be bad. Pink is ignition and second ignition will be either white or pink/white (most likely white). They're roughly 12ga wires and are very easy to get to under the dash at the junction block just above the brake pedal (they will be in the center of the block and will be among the thickest wires going into the block along with all the other wires from the ignition switch. Those are the only two that the vehicle needs to see power up for there to be spark and fuel. If either of those two don't energize when you turn the key to run, and all your fuses are good, your ignition switch is bad.


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## cardoc

Hi everyone
Sure sounds like you lost a circuit powering the pump,coil etc.With the key on check for 12 volts at the coil positive.If dead look for a popped fuse,fusible link bad ign switch etc.You don't happen to have a security system in it? There will be a lot of changes between the '91 and '95 wiring but the same principles will apply.As always start with the basics with attention to detail and symptons.
Good luck,Cardoc


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## meganmay

Ya i will have to find a way to check that. My bf said he checked for a popped fuse but didnt find one. I think the previous owner might have had a sec system in it. Now he and his buddies are talking about putting in a pump off the engine and cutting the line to the one in the tank, and taking out the throttle body and putting in a carborator instead. Because there are so many problems that can happen with throttle bodys. I dont know if that is a good idea or not to make so many modifications to it. It has to be something with the power and wiring but i dont know how to test or check. I know what a bad fuse looks like. What about a fuseable wire??


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## cardoc

A fuseable link looks like a fat soft wire usually coming off a power source like the starter,battery or a comon stud in or near the relay center.The conducter of the wire melts like a fuse but leave the insulation in tack.If a fusable link fails the suspected wire will just pull apart with a light tug. A wiring diagram would be a big help at this point,you may want to try a larger puplic library.It really sounds like you lost a find to these circuits.Does your ck eng light come on wiith the key in the run position? If not it would indicate no power to the ECM.Most of these circuits do get power from the ignition switch powering ecm, relays etc.Again all on a common circuit/powersource.Don't let your buddies cause new problems.


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## mack1

Hi Megan,

A fuseable wire is a fusible link. A picture below shows thee black ones at the power distribution center. Wire goes in one end and out the other. Designed to work like a large fuse if you get a short circuit in the wire after the link. They are colored coded (probably means the current capacity of it). If one burns out, you have to clip it out and wire another one in. Good idea to solder the connections and wrap with electricians tape after install. 

Even though I love the carborators, I'd advise against the conversion. "so many modifications" is an under statement. That your BF would attempt the conversion says good things about him. 

Back to the electrical problems.
I have a 96 S10 Blazer with lots of prints. Some are posted below. Ask BF if he would check to see if these seem to match the wiring on your truck. The prints SABL posted are appreciated, but like cardoc, I think there are too many differents between the 91 and your 95. 
My 96 prints might be close enough to use. 
If you have a printer, here's how to get a hardcopy. (handy to use out at the truck) 
1. Click on a thumbnail to enlarge it. 
2. Right click on the enlarged picture and pick Copy. 
3. On your desktop, right click and Paste it there. 
4. Double click on the desktop picture and Windows Picture and Fax viewer will display it. 
5. Pick Print and Windows Photo and Fax wizzard will come up. Use it to print out full size photo copy.(photo is clearer than fax)

FYI, a test lamp is simply a 12 volt bulb with two leads on it. One lead is held to the point under test and the other to ground. (bare metal on the body or frame of truck) If the light lights, you have 12 volts on that point. The test lamp is the least expensive electrical tester you can buy for your truck. 

The first print below is page 1 of the Power Distribution Center. The prints are from Alldata. (they are not in the Haynes Repair Manual). Notice on this print is the ECM Battery fuse. It is the one that powers the fuel pump. With the ignition to RUN, remove the fuse and use a test lamp to make sure one of the legs is hot. Also note that several fuse links are shown. Some lead to fuse groups. Again, you can pull a fuse and test to see if the link is hot. (Switch in RUN position if needed) 

The second print is page 2 of the Power Distribution Center and the rest of the Battery Junction Block. This print shows two fusible links, the 5 ganged switches in the ignition switch body, and a fuse block. Fuse 20 is the Crank fuse which comes in when the switch is truned to Start. We know that is OK, as the motor will crank over. That also means that that switch element is OK as well as the fusible link above it. With switch in RUN, test the remaining fuse positons on that link with the test lamp for 12 volts. If you find one that has no 12 volts, it would indicate that it's switch element is burned out and you need to replace the ignition switch.
To test the other link, while in RUN, see if the Radio plays, or wipers work, or that the power windows work. 

The third print shows the Battery Junction Block on the vehicle. Three fusible links are shown. 

The forth print is shows my coil with a meter connected showing 11.37 volts on the pink wire going into the coil with the ignition switch in RUN. The other two wires are white and have no voltage on them. Notice that I back probed the wire at a connector using a straight pin from a sewing kit without disconnecting the connector. The straight pin is forced into the connector beside the wire until it made electrical contact inside the plug. I had to use pliars to push the pin in far enough. Also shown are a couple of clip leads that are handy to connect meter or test lamp leads for hands free work. You can pick them up at a Radio Shack store. The black lead is connected to the bright metal heat sink using the green clip lead. The module on the heat sink is controlled by the PCM (computer) which sends 5 volt pluses to the module. It, in turn, turns pulses the 12 volts through the coil during start and run.
You can't measure the 5 volt pulses with a test lamp, have to look for the spark jump across a spark plug. The back probeing with the straight pin wasn't necessary (you could unplug the connector and measure it), but shows how to do it if you need to. 

Hope this helps. Let me know if you need more prints on the fuel pump system. I don't have anything else on the coil circuit.

Best regards,
Mack1


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## SABL

I'm still thinking on this one:grin:

As for using the '96 wiring diagram.....I disagree with the general concensus. My manual jumps from '91 to '96, which tells me that a design change was made in '96 and all former years are identical. Maybe I am wrong but I believe the '96 diagram will different from what meganmay has in the truck. :4-dontkno I think Haynes should have listed the diagram as '91 thru '95. Just because '96 is much closer to the model year of the truck does not mean that the representation will be more accurate.


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## mack1

Hi SABL,

The changes didn't effect the electrical much. The typical type diagrams match the 96. Might have made large chsanges later, don't know. Just hope they used the same wiring on the 95 larger trucks. 

Hope your Xmas went well.
Mack1


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## SABL

Hiya Mack1:wave:

Gee your fast:grin:

Christmas went as usual:sigh: I stayed home and watched TV.

Hope yours was great.


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## supernewb

The change from OBD I to OBD II was in 96, so there are differences. I'm not exactly sure where or what was changed, but that's something to take into account.


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## emilio garcia

hi megan may did you ever get you're truck runing if you did what was wrong


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## meganmay

No I have not. I have some sort of test meter that the needle moves when you place black and red test probes on something. Has a turn switch that goes to different voltages and stuff like for electrical in a home, needs a new fuse. A new fuse because i don't know how to use it lol. I am thinking tomorrow (pay day!) That i will buy one of those kinds that lights up. That would be an easier way to test for power. Hopefully the diagram(s) will work for the 95. I haven't been able to do much to the truck since I am 9 months pregnant. Sorry for the delay, I appreciate the quick responses. Hopefully this week I will get around to getting someone to check it for me then. Oh ya and radio does work when the key is on, windows and everything. I do not believe the check engine light is on. Battery is now dead in it for some reason.


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## emilio garcia

megan may tell youre bf to get a piece of eletric wire and hook it to the + side of the coil direct to the + side of the battery post. if it starts let me know. this is only for testing do not go driving around with it. good luck


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## mack1

Hi Megan,

First and most important, congratulations on the upcomming baby. Boy or girl?

I've attached a marked up print below. The green circled parts are good from what you have told us. The two red circles are points to check. 
Notice that you can easily get to them at the fuse box. Since this is a 96 model print, check the fuse chart on the fuse case door to make sure they are the same, ie. fuse 10 is ECM IGN and fuse 5 is ENG. 
Pull each fuse. 
Switch the ignition switch to Run. 
Push the meter or lamp probes into the fuse slots to test.
Tell us what you find.

If you get the meter working again, be careful not to use the OHM position on a voltage check. Use VDC position with switch selected to a position that is just larger than 12 volts. The meter is good for testing small voltages. The test lamp is good for a quick test to see if 12 volts is present at a point you are testing.

If after you get the truck running and the battery still goes dead, we can track that down then. 

If you don't have a battery charger, get a friend to give you a jump. Leave it on your truck for about 15 to 20 minutes with their engine idling.
If they are a good friend, ask them to switch their battery with yours as it will now be strong enough to start theirs.:grin: It they use yours for a couple of days, it will be fully charged when you get it back. 
Leave the battery disconnected on your truck while you are not working on it.

Very best regards,
Mack1


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## emilio garcia

hi megan may did the truck ever start up. check you wire harness that comes out the fire wall behind motor sometimes that harness touchs the hot manifold and shorts out every thing. it has happen to me. good luck


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