# Honda GX 35 rocker covers.



## ZerofoxJim (Mar 11, 2018)

Hi everyone, I am currently at a loss as how to remove and refit the rocker arms on a Honda gx35.

I accidently broke one, when trying to adjust the valve lash.
They appear to be a press type fit, and the Honda repair manual has no info on how to align and fit them.

Any help would be much appreciated


----------



## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

ZerofoxJim said:


> Hi everyone, I am currently at a loss as how to remove and refit the rocker arms on a Honda gx35.
> 
> I accidently broke one, when trying to adjust the valve lash.
> They appear to be a press type fit, and the Honda repair manual has no info on how to align and fit them.
> ...


First yes the are press fitted. Lacking instructions this is what would make sense to me. Bring the engine to the TDC compression stroke. With the set screws in about third of their travel range press the rockers together while making sure the slack on both ends is zero ie touch the push rod and valve stem. making sure you are setting with the set screw touching; not the arm on the adjustment end. Now of course you will need align the knurling on the parts if both mating are done with this. This should give you plenty of +/- adjustment room. Now take with a grain of salt as I have never done one these before either.


----------



## ZerofoxJim (Mar 11, 2018)

AVB thank you for the response. I know how to adjust the valve lash, but my problem is getting the old rocker arms out, and pressing the new ones in.

I also need to know how to align them.

Its a belt driven cam engine. 

Im more than happy to give you a donation, as you have been helping people like me on this forum for a few years now 

thanks again


----------



## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

Let me see if I can find someone on my my home forum that has done this before then as I know got press them apart but what kind of jig you need is the question.


----------



## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

Update, I got no response from my forum team so I have ordered a shop manual from Honda. It should be here by the 20th. Then I scan the info need and pass it along. Yes a little help with cost would be appreciated this time as I normally can find this online for free, just not this time. I most times actually benefit for the research too. The manual that I did find online was for the GX25 which is the same engine design but it didn't cover the needed info. I can use the GX35 manual to support others and myself as the Husqvarna 334L is based on the same design and I do support over on the Husqvarna Answer Army site. I just never needed the manual. I will to disassemble it and scan to a PDF file as I tend to misplace those printed manuals. We to handle the donation via PM link as not expose either of our email addresses to hackers or spammers. There will times that I will need too which the forum I am the administrator appears can provide the help. I am thinking that my requests are to just above their knowledge level.


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

You are not allowed to publish copyrighted material.

BG


----------



## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

Basementgeek said:


> You are not allowed to publish copyrighted material.
> 
> BG


Was NOT intending to release the document. The scanning to PDF is for my own internal use. If I want to share something I can create my own document based on my own personal knowledge beside the manual I have purchase is to just to verify what I figure out is correct without me having the machine physically in front of me. 

In what me and OP are discussing I am figuring that either we need to use a puller to press the lifter apart; although, pressing apart might work too just depends if we can we can get a grip on the cam lever to use a modified puller or if we press against the boss that the rod goes though to disassembly lifter assembly. Then pressing it back together is simply get it aligned and using an large c-clamp to press back together.

There is a lot times I buy manuals to verify what I done to repair a piece is the way it was done even by the OEM after the equipment is long gone from my shop like how disassemble a half crank to replace a timing belt and the instructions weren't even in the full service manual; just said remove and replace timing belt. There is a lot times that I mentally take the part the needing to repair, disassemble, align it, and re-assemble it without ever touching it before I start my work. 

How you think I took apart the Echo CS330T chainsaw two weeks ago without a service manual, got it repaired, and back to customer. Its service manual which I just got Monday and went over last night don't even have the correct instructions on disassembly; just bits and pieces. Or how I repaired the TAO TAO ATA125F shorted out electrical system that electrical diagram was in blurred Chinese plus tear down and repair the engine that turned out to 125CC block with a 110CC PNC without even a decent IPL. 

There is nothing like having 100 plus small parts just laying on bench to put back together. It is a good thing that I can do this as I do get in equipment that I have never seen before that the customer have taken apart then bring to me in a box or boxes. 

Or when I get some machine that some ******* done repairs on like the Robin/Subaru engine where they cripple the governor using field fence wire and had a air cleaner from a Poulan string trimmer on it. Good thing I had it up on jack stands as when I crank it as the go cart would have taken off across the yard without an operator because the dang clutch was also crippled.

It is like doing code sometimes you just need an example of how something is done so you can do your own programming.

Now if this still violates this site's policy let me know and I can stop right where I am and I will provide no further support. A simple yes or no answer is all I need.


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Wow, I wrote 6 words,you write several paragraph. As long as you don't scan
and publish it as your own, you are good to go.

BG


----------



## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

Even though I spent my first 10 Earth years on Mars the last 58 yrs have on this Earth so yes I know how to avoid copyright infringement. But I am considering closing my accounts with various forums as I no longer receive the support that I need.


----------



## ZerofoxJim (Mar 11, 2018)

Woah hold on AVB, I already have the genuine Honda shop manual for this engine. It does not mention how to replace the rocker arms. It only says do not disassemble. If you bought already, give me your PayPal email. I will reimburse you.

Cheers


----------



## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

Let me just get in the manual for if the info Honda says is in the updated manual Chapter 9 is not I will return it as it was the main reason I purchased it. I have the emails between me and Honda (Amazon) on this very subject and they confirmed to me that is in it. If not then they misrepresented the manual. The manual should show up today or tomorrow. 

Plus buying manuals is just part of doing normal business for me as a professional repair shop. I do figure them into billing for repairs just like any other supplies that I would need. Sometimes on one off repairs I billed the full cost and give them the manual for there own use and keep no copies myself.

I also have the GX25 SM with the Z supplement which don't have the info either. They are basically the same engine just different CCs plus I have just came across the Husqvarna 334L that the same setup.

I hoping these Honda engines are not as poorly designed as the TTI's engines. So far the only 4 cycle handheld engines I service that are holding up is the Stihl 4 Mix engines.


----------



## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

Okay a little different on the alignment then what I thought. First they pressing the rod out thus destroying both parts of the rocker assembly as Honda says that they will no longer usable.

Now they are pressing them together after aligning them which was as I figured. Probably a little easier then what I had described. See the below image for the location the alignment bosses on the cylinder. See circled items. Basically you just sit each arm on these bosses (projections) and press the things back together. The same bosses are on the opposite side. Note that lever that rides on the cam gear has hump on it that sit on the boss. You press things until you have a clearance of .006-.025" between the lever and the boss that rod goes through for freedom of movement. I would shoot for the lesser valve to condensate for later wear. Just don't mix intake and exhaust levers. They are marked IN and EX.

Now Honda does have jig for this PN 070PF-ZOHA100 but at $176.41 retail it will be not cost effective for one time repairs.


----------

