# Thermaltake Tower112



## Holeyman (Jan 19, 2009)

Yes I just got done lapping this baby and I soaked it in some water to get rid of the soap and fingerprints and I do believe it start to rust cause I kind of let it sit over night in water. But I pulled it out asap and dried it off blowing a Shotvac. And I was curious if it is rust any suggestions on how to remove it from the heatsink.http://www.ixbt.com/cpu/heatpipe-shootout-dec2k5/tt-tower112.jpg


thanks in advanced for the help


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## magnethead (Mar 18, 2006)

copper and aluminum dont rust. However, copper could corrode, but certainly not overnight.


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## Holeyman (Jan 19, 2009)

k ty


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## Chainer (Dec 10, 2008)

Copper Doesn't Corrode...


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## WereBo (Apr 5, 2008)

Copper will corrode, giving a green colour to it. Aluminium doesn't 'rust' as such, but it will quickly form an 'Oxide layer' which makes it look dull and pitted.

Depending on the acidity and mineral content of the water, it might have set up a slight chemical reaction with the metal


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## magnethead (Mar 18, 2006)

WereBo said:


> Copper will corrode, giving a green colour to it. Aluminium doesn't 'rust' as such, but it will quickly form an 'Oxide layer' which makes it look dull and pitted.
> 
> Depending on the acidity and mineral content of the water, it might have set up a slight chemical reaction with the metal


statue of Liberty is copper FYI. 



maybe 25% of people actually know that.


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## WereBo (Apr 5, 2008)

Mmmmmm... A classic example :grin:


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

All metals oxidize in some manner, AFAIK, maybe there's some exotic out there that doesn't. Just that "rust" as normally referred to, is the oxidization of iron, ferric oxide. Or just about any skill I possessed in my younger days.


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## WereBo (Apr 5, 2008)

Gold and, I think, Platinum, doesn't oxidise, hence the gold-plated contacts on PC card connectors etc.

Anyway, back to the topic :grin: - Sorry Holeyman, I keep getting a "Forbidden - You don't have permission to access /cpu/heatpipe-shootout-dec2k5/tt-tower112.jpg on this server." error when I try to see the pic, you posted.

Depending on the degree of 'oxidisation' ( for want of a better word), you might be able to re-lap the base of the heatsink, if it's not too pitted. I've found WD40 to be a pretty good metal-cleaner, in the past - although I haven't tried it on heatsinks, mainly the various grungy bits of my car engine :laugh: Then again, if it can clean burnt oil-stains off aluminium......

You'll need to clean the WD40 residue off the base though, where the thermal paste gets spread about. Isopropyl Alcohol should be good for that - the stuff used to clean cassette heads, CD/DVD lens-cleaners etc.


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## Holeyman (Jan 19, 2009)

Ty for all the input I much appreciate it all!


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

Reminds me of the post by the guy a few months ago about using rubbing compound from an automotive store. Keep meaning to give it a try, see how it goes.


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## WereBo (Apr 5, 2008)

grimx133 said:


> Reminds me of the post by the guy a few months ago about using rubbing compound from an automotive store. Keep meaning to give it a try, see how it goes.


Do you mean the stuff used to remove the top layer of car-paint, ready for wax-polishing?

If so, here in the UK it's called 'T-Cut'. It's abrasive enough to cut the top skin of paint (that gets the grime and dirt embedded in it, after a while), but I don't know whether it's abrasive enough for metals, even fairly soft metals like copper and aluminium







- I might well mean a helluva lot of 'elbow grease', compared to a very fine grit Emery-paper :4-dontkno


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## raptorkid (Jun 17, 2008)

I used autosol on my case, just to see what would happen...

Came up really nice!

I'll try and get a pic if anyone wants?


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

Just had a thought flash into the old noggin. Many, many years ago, we polished brass (capbadges actually) using brasso and cardboard. It took the metal down and created a mirrorlike finish.


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