# Overclock my i5-750



## lilbuzjr (Jun 17, 2010)

I think i gathered all the information that was talked about in the sticky.
Please help.

Mainboard : Gigabyte P55-UD3R
Chipset : Intel P55
Processor : Intel Core i5 750 @ 2666 MHz
Physical Memory :	4096 MB (2 x 2048 DDR3-SDRAM ) - CMX4GX3M2A1600C9 
Video Card : NVIDIA GeForce GTS 250
Hard Disk : WDC (750 GB)
DVD-Rom Drive : DSFCRYZ 30PUZKP2J SCSI CdRom Device
CaseFan: Azza Dynamo 650W
Case: Azza Spartan
(two vents on left side with fan on one 140mm blowing in - vents on back with 120mm fan blowing out)
CpuCooler: ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2 92mm Fluid Dynamic CPU Cooler

OCCT: Cores 1-4 Idle 34/36 celsius
Working 58/61 celsius
(5% overclock 2.8Ghz)


----------



## MonsterMiata (Jan 5, 2010)

You will not be able to go very far with temps like that under load. Remove the side fan and run OCCT again and this time use Real temp to watch the temperatures with. Also take note the psu is very poor quality. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...dd06585&itemid=120584236855&ff4=263602_263622

Up to 78% efficient. Thats under ideal conditions which were tested at 25c. What psu is ran in a 25c case environment? Id expect that psu to put out 50-60% of what its rated for if that. Only has 31a on the 12v. My first suggestion would be to replace that psu with a quality unit that is at least 80+. Corsair and Seasonic are top brands for a good price.


----------



## lilbuzjr (Jun 17, 2010)

Why remove the side fan? 
I will probably replace the psu - it came with the case almost for free.
would I be able to go another 5% or no? up to about 2.95 or something


----------



## MonsterMiata (Jan 5, 2010)

Side fans disrupt the airflow from front to back creating more heat. Not with temps like that. My guess is the fan is is causing this or the heatsink is not seated properly.


----------



## lilbuzjr (Jun 17, 2010)

I took it off and the idle was about hitting 40... i didnt do the stress test


----------



## lilbuzjr (Jun 17, 2010)

The thermal grease i used was the stuff that was already on the cooler... would this be the problem at all?


----------



## MonsterMiata (Jan 5, 2010)

Yes it would be part of the issue. Your cpu should not get up to 40c at idle. what program are you using to monitor temps with? Check the load temps. What kind of climate do you live in?


----------



## lilbuzjr (Jun 17, 2010)

i found another fan... o.0

There is the sid fan blowing in. a back blowing out a front blowing out (is that bad) and the CPU fan blows down... i hear this may be a problem. its the only way it goes in.


----------



## lilbuzjr (Jun 17, 2010)

actually the cpu fan blows up


----------



## MonsterMiata (Jan 5, 2010)

Have the front fan blow in and make sure the cpu fan is blowing towards back of the case with the rear fan blowing out as well. Once again leave the side fan disconnected or turn it around so its blowing air out of the case as well but disconnected would still be best.. It will work better this way.


----------



## lilbuzjr (Jun 17, 2010)

the CPU fan will only go up or down on my motherboard.
i will definately flip the front fan.
i use speed fan


----------



## lilbuzjr (Jun 17, 2010)

i live in minnesota? the cities area


----------



## MonsterMiata (Jan 5, 2010)

Speed fan can be very inaccurate. Check the bios for idle temps. Real temp or Core temp will be much more closer to the bios readings.


----------



## PRSF (Jul 11, 2008)

Real Temp is the best program to monitor your temperatures in real time, I have the same CPU and when overclocked running stress tests (meaning my CPU usage is at 100% on all 4 cores) my temperature only hits about 45C, so you really need to work on getting those temps down.

Normally my CPU idles at about 28C, I have aftermarket cooler, Zalman, see my signature.

I had the same RAM as you initially, but one stick was bad and I had to return it, decided to get the Corsair Dominator RAM while I was at it, instead of getting the same XMS3, though the XMS3 is still great RAM.

When you overclock, you need to manually set your RAM timmings, and set the voltage on your RAM to 1.65V, after a lot of time, trial and error, I found my RAM needs to be run at 2N (2T) command rate, instead of 1N. Set XMP in your BIOS and see what it sets your RAM timmings to, if it sets the RAM at 9-9-9-24-2N, then you need to set the RAM at 2N to reach full stability.

Download Prime95, run 12hrs of Prime after you have set your overclocking settings in the BIOS to ensure your system is stable.

1.2-1.22v vCore should be fine with overclock up to 3.2 GHz (20x multi with 160 BLCK), anything higher and you will need to increase the vCore, leave your IMC voltage on auto, set your RAM voltage to 1.65v etc. If you want to use turbo boost, with speedstep and C1E you might need to raise your vCore if you have your BLCK set to 160, multi needs to be set to auto for turbo boost, I have mine at 150 BLCK with turbo boost, reaching 3.0 GHz, turbo boost to 3.6 GHz, totally awesome.

If I set it to 160 BLCK I turn turbo boost off, don't really want turbo boost on with 3.2 GHz as the vCore I leave on auto with turbo boost so I can idle low, and it reaches pretty high


----------



## lilbuzjr (Jun 17, 2010)

I got realtemp. The readings are the same as OTTC.
I turned the fan around on the side and that lowered the temp to about 56/58 instead of 59/61
but it still got up to 60 for a couple seconds a few times


----------



## shotgn (Aug 10, 2008)

Bois still reads temps more accurately.... I also agree with MonsterMiata on replacing that psu..

You are pretty much running it to its limits..the older the psu the worst it will get

With your overclocking i would recommend a 750w QUALITY psu like seasonic or corsair.

Alot of your heat will also come from the psu straining to keep up


----------



## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

The AC 7 CPU fan should be mounted to blow front to back, what's stopping you from doing so?

That PSU has to go, when Overclocking clean stable power becomes even more important.


----------



## lilbuzjr (Jun 17, 2010)

i can mount the CPU fan front to back. it comes with brackets that allow in only to go up and down. go yell at the mobo


----------



## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

You have the black plastic piece mounted to the motherboard wrong, rotate it 1/4 turn and the cooler will mount front to back.


----------



## lilbuzjr (Jun 17, 2010)

No. the plastic piece only goes on one way.


----------



## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

No the plastic piece will mount to the motherboard in any rotation the mounting holes are equal distance apart.


----------



## lilbuzjr (Jun 17, 2010)

Ok omg. totally my bad.
Yes! So i picked up some arctic silver 5, and tonight turned the cooler and applied that stuff.
I am looking at a 4 - 5 degree decrease at idle.
The site for the thermal compound says it needs 200 hours break in time, so I'm thinking i will wait a week to stress test it. Unless any of you think there is no need?
I'm great-full with these results, hoping it might even turn out better!


----------



## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Give a little time and load it up to see what the load temps are, when it breaks in you'll see a couple degrees cooler.


----------

