# Electric FIreplace FL28-r too many amps??



## tingmire (Nov 18, 2017)

got a second hand electric fireplace. Plugged it in, turned on flames, lights, heater on high. Wall outlet got hot pretty quick.

Several years ago in another home I had another second-hand fireplace melt the wall plate off before my tenant downstairs noticed anything. My contracter then said the circuit was not designed to carry enough amps for the fireplace. I can't remember what he said I had vs. what I needed, but being in the basement it was pretty easy for him to install a dedicated circuit/circuit breaker for that fireplace. issue solved.'

Checking the back panel of the fireplace I'm asking about now all I can find is 115 or 120V 60hz. No data on current draw. Can anyone help?

THanks in advance!

eace:eace:


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## WereBo (Apr 5, 2008)

Hi tingmire and welcome to TSF









I'm afraid I can't help much on your query, I'm in the UK and we have a different power-ratings here (240C @ 13A), I haven't a clue about 115V, other than it doesn't hurt so much when touched :wink:

Don't worry though, one of our more knowledgeable members should be along soon :smile:


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## Done_Fishin (Oct 10, 2006)

I've only ever had one occasion when a heater caused me problems at the wall socket turning the surround a dark colour of brown and it was caused by (I believe) a bad connection at the socket. The wire had also overheated that was screwed into the socket (internal wire in the wall that came from the fuse-box!). I have worked as both Electrician and as Electronics Tech and have never come across the idea 



> to install a dedicated circuit/circuit breaker for that fireplace. issue solved.'


Heat is formed at a point where the current & resistance cause a high voltage drop where there should be none .. a 3KW heater at 230 Volts draws approx 4Amps / KW or 12 Amps .. (rule of thumb .. 230 is approx 250 so 100/250 =4)
At 115Volts it will draw approx double that so 24 Amps .. if a connection at the wall socket creates a resistance of 1 OHM which is very low it will create heat of about 24 watts and a voltage loss across it of 24 Volts. Try holding a 20 watt car bulb (rear light) for more than a second or two without burning your hand. 

I would start by getting an electrician in to check the plug and plug wiring possibly even replacing the plug. Also the socket and the wiring behind will need to be checked . and possibly replaced. If the wiring behind the socket has been damaged (ie melted covering and discoloured metal) it may be possible to cut it back to make a repair or the wire may need replacing back up to the closest distribution point where a connection has been made. I have no experience of the US methods of cable distribution in houses and apartments so I cannot really advise on what happens there. Years ago in the UK cables were laid loose under wooden floorboards and through walls. Later they were distributed by conduit piping that ran mainly around walls with junction boxes to allow spurs to be taken off for sockets and lighting points in various rooms, keeping lighting and wall sockets on separate breakers at the fuse-box. In the UK they now use ring circuits, still keeping Lighting and wall sockets on different circuits. Here in Greece everything seems to be connected together but a breaker covers a room or rooms so when the breaker goes you lose both lights and wall sockets. Every country seems to have their own way of doing things.

The heat at the wall socket is due to a resistive contact. The heat will spread to everything that is in immediate contact with the "hot or hottest point". The wall, the socket, the plug and the cables will absorb this heat. The cables will act as a heatsink drawing the heat away from the hottest point like a heatsink until everything becomes as hot as the initial problem .. if not sorted out or turned off the wires can actually glow red like a car bulb filament ... and then a fire actually starts.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Good guess about 1500 watts

BG


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## kendallt (Feb 21, 2007)

In addition to checking the outlet and wiring as Done_fishing recommends, check what else is on that circuit. There may be enough draw through the whole circuit to cause issues (turn off breaker, see what else goes off) 
Also ensure that they used the screw terminals, not the push in spring clips on the outlets. The spring clips have very weak connection and degrade over time. 
If worse comes to worse, run a dedicated line to the high draw appliances.


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