# Samsung monitor gray (grey) screen, S27C570H



## ziggy90127 (Jan 3, 2018)

Hi,

My Samsung S27C570H monitor boots up to a cloudy gray (grey) screen as shown in the photo:









The monitor seems to be operating normally otherwise. The computer sees the monitor. The monitor goes to sleep, turns on/off, status LED displayed properly.

This problem happened while I was using it. In a very short time interval, maybe a couple 10ths of a second, a gray pattern started in the lower left corner of the screen and moved diagonally to the upper right corner. 

I'm guessing there's 2 pieces inside, the controller and the panel. Any thoughts on which piece needs replacing? Thanks!


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## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

I would start with a Samsung Service Request.


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## ziggy90127 (Jan 3, 2018)

I've taken it apart. I used a screw driver to wedge between the shell front and back, and twist until it snaps, starting at the side. I worked my way around the entire case. There's one screw behind a cover, in the middle of the connectors on the back. Remove that and everything should come apart. 

Here are the photos of the internals:












































I measured the voltage at the DC power connector - 13.94V. The power adapter says it's output is 14V, so it seems normal.

I've heard that the capacitors Samsung used can be bad. Maybe I should install new ones?


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## ziggy90127 (Jan 3, 2018)

SpywareDr said:


> I would start with a Samsung Service Request.


Thanks. It's a Canadian monitor not listed on the US website. Unfortunately Samsung Canada does not have the same Service Request page. I've sent them an email.


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## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

Since you have disassembled the monitor, I'm not sure they'd now be willing to honor the warranty. :sad:


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## ziggy90127 (Jan 3, 2018)

SpywareDr said:


> Since you have disassembled the monitor, I'm not sure they'd now be willing to honor the warranty. :sad:


I bought this monitor second hand, so I'm not sure of it's age, but I'm guessing 2013 vintage, so I doubt if there's any warranty. 

Since a new monitor can be had for about $200 CAD, I doubt that it's worth getting a repair shop to fix it. 

There is a BN94-06162G controller board on eBay for $41USD (plus $25.50USD shipping to Canada!). If someone with experience with this problem could tell me that this would likely fix the problem, I'd definitely buy it.

There are a couple of websites that list the LTM270HL01 panel for $325USD. I'm definitely not going to buy one of those!


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## ziggy90127 (Jan 3, 2018)

I went ahead and replaced the 5 larger capacitors. 3 capacitors say "100 25T" on the top, I assume they are 100uF @ 25V, however, I'm wondering if "25T" means 25V Tantalum? (And 35T 35V Tantalum?) I used low ESR aluminum capacitors.









And... no change in monitor behavior.

I'd like to change the small capacitor, however, not sure what "DJ 10 H SL" means, maybe 10uF @ 20V?

The inductor has some sweat on the side, not sure if that's of any consequence.









Not sure I'm going to pursue anything further. One nice monitor goes to recycling, and I'm off to the monitor store!


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## tristar (Aug 12, 2008)

From my experience, I think the caps look good, if the first pic is from what it used to be.

You would be able to see the bulging and leaking on caps if it was a Cap issue.

Is this the power Board seems way too small and compact than my Viewsonic  ? If I were to guess, I think you're looking at a Panel issue and not a power issue.

If the Power button turns on and there is no flickering or dullness, most likely your power is fine.


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## ziggy90127 (Jan 3, 2018)

tristar said:


> From my experience, I think the caps look good, if the first pic is from what it used to be.
> 
> You would be able to see the bulging and leaking on caps if it was a Cap issue.
> 
> ...


Yes, the pic with the caps with 25T/35T on the top are original. 

This is the controller board. It gets power through it's DC barrel power connector from an external 14V adapter. I measured 14V coming through to the board. 

I wonder if there's anything to fix inside the panel. I took the top cover off on the rear of the panel itself, which reveals one long circuit board.

































There is a switching supply in there, but no electrolytic capacitors that I would suspect. I suppose I should measure VSS1 and VSS2 to see if they are sane and stable. I should do the same for the generated voltages on the controller board.


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## tristar (Aug 12, 2008)

14V ? I might not be able to help much, where is the actual power input located on this board ? it needs to have a step down coil if it's coming off the mains.


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