# tecumseh carberator problem



## mdsjsb47 (Dec 13, 2005)

I have a toro snowblower with a tecumseh carb, would only run with squirt of fuel into in throat. I took the bowl off to clean it and check for fuel, NEEDLE fell out, replaced it the way I thought it should be ( with the little wire from the needle under the hinge of the float. put it back together, gas pours out of carb and little primer bulb. What is the proper way to reseat the needle. Any help would be appreciated as the snow is starting. I believe the original problem was from storage over the summer without summerizing the fuel.


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## buddycraigg (Nov 26, 2005)

Do you have a way to post a pic?
I can draw arrows and such on it in and repost with an explanation.


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## mdsjsb47 (Dec 13, 2005)

*pictures of carb*

i have attached 4 jpg picts, thanks


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## Volt-Schwibe (Jan 12, 2003)

ok, it's obvious that you need a macro lens on your camera...

aside from that, by your explaination, and the pictures, i am convinced that you installed it correctly.

the problem must be something other than the way the actual needle valve is inserted...

let me drag up some stuff, and get back, it may take me as long as 2 hours though.


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## buddycraigg (Nov 26, 2005)

see this funny brown stuff.
it is what gas turns into after the lighter elements of it evaporate.
first it turns into a tar like goo,
and finally dries out to turn in to a hard crust.

it will clog tiny holes that air and gas need to pass through for the carb to work correctly.


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## buddycraigg (Nov 26, 2005)

Next.
When you put It back together, you did get the needle back into this hole. 
That is where the needle stops the flow of gas.

follow these steps to put it back together.
remove the pin that the float pivits on
remove float.
put needle on float tang (yes it's call a tang)
guide the needle in to the hole as you put the float back in place.
holding the float in place reinstall the pivot pin.

you can do this all while it's still on the engine if you have the room to take off the bowl on the bottom of it.

to check if everything is working.
leave the bowl off,
turn on the gas valve (if it has one) or have someone put some gas in the tank while you hold the float up in place as it would be when the bowl would be full of gas.
as the float rises, it will pivot and push the needle in to the valve seat stopping the flow of gas.
if it stop dripping while you are holding the float up then you are all set.


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## buddycraigg (Nov 26, 2005)

If you are sure you got it back in to that hole then we have to assume that the needle is not able to seal against the seat.
Probably due to the dried goo.

You will need carburetor cleaner.
Some Q-tip they need to have hard paper or wooden stalks. The plastic kind will melt from the car cleaner.

Hose the carb off with the cleaner.
Spray some down in the hole.
Now stick a Q-tip in the hole and spin it in one direction only.
Repeat until the bottom of the hole is clean.
You might even try using the paper or wooden stick if the junk in there is really hard.

Do not use any metal tools.
You do not want to scratch the bottom of the hole.


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## buddycraigg (Nov 26, 2005)

And the needle.
See this line.
I cant tell if it is a reflection from light.
Or if it is a wear mark from where the needle is rubbing the valve seat.
Or possibly a build up of goo.
If it’s dried goo clean it with a rag and carb cleaner.


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## buddycraigg (Nov 26, 2005)

And finally be very careful when you put it all back together on the engine.
I don’t know how many little rods and linkages connect the carb to the engine, but if it’s set up like a lawn mower engine it will have a rod and tiny spring that attaches to a governor. And then something for the throttle. 

I will work on just about anything that burns gas, diesel, or propane.
But I wont even look at a Tecumseh lawn mower. I never can get the governor set up correctly.


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## Volt-Schwibe (Jan 12, 2003)

i noticed that line too, which was what i meant when i was saying a macro lens would be useful.

but you will want to look at the needle and make sure it hasn't done this:


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## buddycraigg (Nov 26, 2005)

i'm gonna go play with a solding iron and try not to burn myself.
i'll be back in a little bit to check for any updates


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## mdsjsb47 (Dec 13, 2005)

*tecumseh carb repair*

Thank you both for the insight, I will be trying it first thing tomorrow morning. I will let you know how things make out.


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## Volt-Schwibe (Jan 12, 2003)

ok, here is what i found in a manual for tecumseh motors...

while holding the carb upside down, you will want to measure the float clearance at each end.

A should be a little less than B, depending on the model, this book covers many models.

all of them are roughly 2mm difference.

basically, you want it to be about 2 degrees past level.

gently bend the little tab that pushes the float to adjust it.


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## buddycraigg (Nov 26, 2005)

> gently bend the little tab that pushes the float to adjust it.


just want to clarify, he is talking about the little tab called a "tang" and it's where the needle clips on to the float.


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## Volt-Schwibe (Jan 12, 2003)

oops, i left out an arrow again.

i spend the 10 mins to doodle something like that, and then i start forgetting the simplest parts of the actual task.


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## buddycraigg (Nov 26, 2005)

Volt-Schwibe
you have a PM


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## buddycraigg (Nov 26, 2005)

Volt-Schwibe said:


> A should be a little less than B,


another thing that is just bass ackwards from what the rest of the world does.

it's no wonder that tecumseh engines give me problems


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## Volt-Schwibe (Jan 12, 2003)

book specifies that on briggs, A and B should be the same as each other.....

so more or less a level float.

on wisconsin motors, same as briggs.


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## buddycraigg (Nov 26, 2005)

where's the update?


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