# 1997 subaru legacy outback - gone crazy



## SpottyG (Oct 26, 2008)

Ok here's hoping someone can give me any help for this problem.

Ok i got a 1997 Subaru legacy outback..it all started no Sunday with a belt stating to squeak. then 2 days later my ABS light came on periodically and when the abs light was on ans i hit the brakes my rpm gauge would drop to zero and when i took my foot off the brake the rpm's kicked back in....then my Speedometer just started to die randomly kicking in and out.
then my check engine light came on and i started to lose some electrical( foglights would kick in and out and radio would kick in and out.) and then I lost almost all power in the engine...cant get the car to go more than 20kph with the pedal on the floor. any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated... I've had a few friends say it could be an alternator problem or a clogged catalytic converter

lost and confused


----------



## Gene145 (Sep 21, 2007)

*Re: 1997 subaru legacy outback*

I have a 2005 Outback and there is a bunch of stuff connected together. For example I have had the cruise control quit, the check engine light on and the ABS light on because I got snow in the speed sensor on one or more wheels. I suggest you go to the dealer and get them to do a scan with their little machine. 

I assume the 97 has a similar computer monitor.


----------



## Midnight Tech (Dec 31, 2001)

*Re: 1997 subaru legacy outback*

I'd say alternator - so many new cars do crazy stuff like this when they're not charging correctly.


----------



## mack1 (Nov 27, 2007)

Hi SpottyG and welcome to TSF :wave:

I think the problem is electrical and could be a bad alternator, or battery. The belt that started squeaking could be the alternator trying to lock up either because of bearings or because of a shorted electrical load. I you don't have a volt/ohm meter, buy one. They are cheap and are necessary around a car. A charged battery should measure 12 to 12.7 volts DC. When you start the car, the alternator should increase this to about 14.8 volts at the battery terminals. Give it a little gas to increase the rpm if needed to see the 14.8 volts. If these don't look right, see which is the problem (battery or alternator). Disconnect the wires from the alternator and be sure to tape the ends of any that might short. Start the car and see if the 12 volts is stable and race the engine up to make sure it still looks near 12 volts. If you were measuring the voltage while the starter was engaged, the volts across the battery should drop to about 9 volts. When the engine starts and you get off the starter, the volts should increase to the 12 to 12.7 volts. 
That is the normal. If you had a shorted cell in the battery, it would measure about 10 volts, would still start the car, but the alternator would still be trying to put out 14.8 volts and heavy current would be flowing into the battery from the alternator. A physical load would be placed on the alternator pulley as it tried to put out max amps. The belt could squeak and wires would be getting hot. 
If the car runs good with the alternator disconnected, the problem will be in the alternator. Probably shorted rectifiers inside the alternator used to convert the AC to DC voltage and current. 
A $10 volt meter will work very well for trouble shooting electrical problems on a car. 

Best regards,
Mack1


----------



## SpottyG (Oct 26, 2008)

Thanks for the advice peeps. I will be swapping out the altenator and possibly battery later this week....will let you know how things go


----------



## SpottyG (Oct 26, 2008)

Swapping out the alternator did the trick....

thanks for the advice


----------



## mack1 (Nov 27, 2007)

Great, glad you got it fixed.

Best regards,
Mack1


----------

