# Computer I built shuts down by itself after 10 minutes of installation



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

Hello, I have just finished building and installing my computer's OS today. Everything went well and everything was running okay until I tried installing drivers and other stuff for my CD-DVD drive. My computer decided to shut down with no warning. It won't turn back on after it has shut down and I don't know if it will ever turn back on. I have read that it is either a heating/cooling problem, or a PSU problem. I just don't know exactly what it could be. It is quite a shame that this is how my very first build has to end up.

Other details:
OS: Win7 Pro 64 SP1
CPU: Intel Core i5 @ about 3.3MHz
Memory: 8GB
Cooling: Cooler Master heatsink
PSU: Corsair 750 (or 780)

I hope is nothing of great importance is ruined...


----------



## Burto87 (Aug 24, 2011)

Can you list the full make and model of all parts more accurately. Mobo, CPU, PSU, graphics, ram, CPU cooler, hdd etc.


----------



## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

There are no drivers required for optical drives, they're plug an play.
Brand & Model of Mobo-CPU-RAM-Graphics-PSU.
Try clearing the CMOS.
Do you get any signs of activity at all (lights-fans,etc.) when pushing the power button?


----------



## wkw427 (Nov 9, 2008)

Try unplugging the machine from the mains, waiting a minute, and plugging it back in. If it doesn't turn on, the power supply is dead.

As Tyree said, what is the make/model of the power supply, as well as the age.

If this were a heating problem, you SHOULD have been able to power the mahcine on 5-10 minutes after it shut down


----------



## CRO_T (Nov 29, 2012)

Most likely it looks like a faulty power supply.

I am 99.9% sure it is just a small issue.


----------



## wkw427 (Nov 9, 2008)

A failed power supply isn't a small issue. It can die by itself, but it can also take everything else with it.


----------



## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

CRO_T said:


> Most likely it looks like a faulty power supply.
> 
> I am 99.9% sure it is just a small issue.


If the PSU is indeed a 750W Corsair unit, even one of the lower quality newer models, it's highly unlikely to be the problem.


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

UPDATE!
After waiting a while, the computer is able to go back on. Thus far, there are no problems.

Detail on PSU is a corsair TX 750 and I have receive all of my parts about a week ago.

I'm sorry if it took a while to respond.

Edit:
More Detail:
MB: ASUS P8 Z77-V LK
Heatsink: CoolerMaster Hyper 212 plus
CPU: intel core i5

I'll add more

Edit2:
I don't know how much longer my PC can go before shutting off. It is really calm fan wise. I also have an antec case with 2 chasis fans, but they have 3 pins while the MB only supports 4 pinned fans.


----------



## wkw427 (Nov 9, 2008)

Go into the bios, look at the CPU temp. If it gets too high, the system will turn off.. That sounds like a heat issue tbh


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

UPDATE:
I ran the computer for one last time...
It eventually shut itself off again, but this time with a burning odor.
The computer can no longer successfully turn on.
I have failed...


----------



## oscer1 (Jan 27, 2010)

have you located the burning smell?


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

I assume it was strongest near the CPU, now it has worn off.


----------



## oscer1 (Jan 27, 2010)

you will need to diassemble it and check the motherboard for traces of burn marks. when you put into the case did you use the stand offs?


----------



## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Vyacheslav said:


> I also have an antec case with 2 chasis fans, but they have 3 pins while the MB only supports 4 pinned fans.


You can still connect the case fans to the Mobo. The fan plugs have a raised place on them to line up with a corresponding notch in the Mobo pins.


----------



## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

For now, remove the Mobo and look for any burned spots. If it looks OK, do a bench test precisely as listed below.

Remove EVERYTHING from the case.
Set the motherboard on a non conductive surface. The motherboard box is perfect for this. DO NOT PLACE THE MOTHERBOARD ON THE STATIC BAG! It can actually conduct electricity! 
Install the CPU and heat sink. 
Install 1 stick of RAM.
Install the video card and attach the power supply connection(s) to the card if your card needs it.
Connect the monitor to the video card.
Connect the power supply to the motherboard with both the 24pin main ATX Power connection and the separate 4 pin (Dual Core CPU) or 8 pin (Quad Core CPU) power connection.
Connect power to the power supply.
Do NOT connect ANYTHING else. Make sure you have the power connector on the CPU fan connected.
Use a small screwdriver to momentarily short the power switch connector on the motherboard. Consult your motherboard manual to find which two pins connect to your case's power switch. Then touch both pins with a screwdriver to complete the circuit and boot the system.

If all is well, it should power up and you should get a display. Then assemble the parts into the case and try again. If the system now fails to boot, you have a short in the case and need to recheck your motherboard standoffs.

If the system does not boot after this process, then you most likely have a faulty component. You'll need to swap parts, start with the power supply, until you determine what is defective.


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

UPDATE:
It appears that there are no signs of burns on the computer. However, it is still unable to successfully start up. I will try Tyree's method and see if there are any results.

EDIT:
When I turn the power on on the PSU, then case, The computer will try to run, but then it will decide to fail. I cannot turn it on through the case until i turn it off through the PSU and then turn it back on.

This is odd because this is how my last computer failed. It had the same general problem, Won't boot up, only turns off from PSU, turn everything on, repeat. But for now, I will try whatever i can find.


----------



## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Do the bench test.


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

UPDATE:
I have tried your bench test, but the same thing is happening as if I used the power button instead of a screwdriver or any other metallic object.


----------



## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Refer to the last paragraph of the bench test tutorial.

If the system does not boot after this process, then you most likely have a faulty component. You'll need to swap parts, start with the power supply, until you determine what is defective.

You can do a Mobo check by removing all RAM, boot, listen for beeps from the Mobo speaker. No RAM and no beeps indicates a Mobo problem.


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

I removed the one stick of RAM and it did the exact same thing which it has been doing including the fact that there are no beeps.
I also would like to point out that when my computer shut down the first time, I was unable to turn it on immediately. So I waited. The next day it worked perfectly, but when I was installing drivers and after it was done, it shuts down by itself and I was able to immediately turned it on. It then went on, but turned off and caused the burning odor. I think the ability to not turn on after failure was meant to be a fail-safe. Since the certainty of failure is likely from the mobo , does it also affect other components as well?


----------



## wkw427 (Nov 9, 2008)

Remove _both_ memory sticks and see if it beeps...


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

I did remove both. No beeps.


----------



## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

No RAM and no beeps (a Mobo speaker is required to hear the beeps) indicates a Mobo problem.


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

Now that you've mentioned it, I don't believe my P8 Z77-V LK has a speaker.

Again I'm sorry if I am taking a while to respond or if I am appearing to be just a hindrance. This is my first build and it only worked for less than 2 days before it did this. I just hope nothing was severely compromised. But if they are, I am willing to replace whatever component given an allotted time.


----------



## Burto87 (Aug 24, 2011)

I believe my motherboard speaker came with my case rather than the actual motherboard and can look something like this....


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

I don't think such a thing came with my case or motherboard. The MB came with 2 sata cables and an sli cable as far as I am aware of. My case didn't have anything special with it.


----------



## Burto87 (Aug 24, 2011)

See a friend or go to your local computer shop and see if they have one you could have


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

Might as well go someplace to find out the problem. I can't figure out what the problem is exactly.

If only I had a well ventilated setup, this wouldn't happen. :frown:


----------



## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

I have doubts if the lack of ventilation is the base of your problem. Go to a local PC shop and pick up a Mobo speaker.
Once you have the Mobo speaker installed you can do the bench and most likely resolve the problem.


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

UPDATE:

Okay, after several days, I ordered the mobo speaker and received it from the mail and Amazon. I plugged it in and did the test without any RAM inserted. There were no beeps. I turned the speaker around and I plugged it in again. No beeps. So this might mean that the root of the problem is the motherboard. The thing is, I don't know how it explains the random shutdowns my computer was experiencing when it was actually working and how it was able to work the second time and then shut down indefinitely. 

All I know is that my old computer also had a similar problem, but instead of shutting down, it continued to have the fan on and it won't turn off until I unplugged the computer. I sent my old computer to a local repair place about two weeks before Sandy struck and a week later, they concluded that the PSU and the MB were shot off. 

It's like I want to specialize in computers, but somehow they can bite me in the *** for no reason whatsoever.


----------



## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

It does appear the Mobo is the problem and your Mobo has a 3 yr. warranty. Simply do and RMA request with Asus.

ASUS Service | North America


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

Fair enough. I bought all of my parts through Newegg, so returns shouldn't be a problem, I suppose. Could a faulty motherboard be a reason a computer may shut down inexplicably?


----------



## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Newegg has a 30 day return policy so if your within that time frame just request a replacement with Newegg.


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

Alrighty then. I'll get around to that as soon as possible. I just hope nothing else was damaged...


----------



## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Best of luck and please post back with any results.


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

*Considering a new Mobo, Don't know which one though.*

Hello! Not long ago, I have posted about my recent build shutting down after using it for about 10 minutes. After a while, it was working normally like the first run. While installing drivers, My computer inexplicably shuts down again and I tried to turn it on, but then I noticed something odd. An odor that could be similar to that of something burning coming from my computer.

After a countless number of attempts turning it on, it just won't boot up. Looking inside, there are no signs of any burns. So I was told to try a bench test with only video, CPU and power inserted while using a metal object on the on switch pins. Since there is no RAM inserted, the computer is supposed to beep when it detects no RAM, but according to the speaker I bought on Amazon, it didn't beep. That means that the fault is in the motherboard.

Interestingly enough, my old computer also failed from a faulty MB, and it also didn't boot up when I turned the power on.

When I tried the bench test, fans from the CPU and the video card were working fine until it decides to turn off. I hope nothing was damaged...

I currently have: 
ASUS P8-Z77-V LK as my MB
Intel Core i5 @ ~3.3-3.4 GHz CPU
GeForce GTX 560 ti
Corsair 750TX PSU
8GB RAM(DDR3)
1TB HDD
CoolerMaster Hyper 212

I am looking for a different MB that would be less likely to shut down randomly upon use and is compatible with all of my other parts.


----------



## wkw427 (Nov 9, 2008)

~disregard~


----------



## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

wkw427 said:


> The coolermaster is a prime suspect, especially if you use it on another board that died...


----------



## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

*Re: Considering a new Mobo, Don't know which one though.*



Vyacheslav said:


> I am looking for a different MB that would be less likely to shut down randomly upon use and is compatible with all of my other parts.


The Mobo you have is good quality. You're previous posts infer you are going to exchange/RMA the Mobo?


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

That is correct, I didn't know if I needed a brand new thread for this reason. I also didn't know if my MB was "sub-par". I'm sorry for the redundancy...


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

UPDATE! FINALLY!

It has been quite a while, but I finally received my new Mobo from my RMA. I did not open the box yet. I'll work on it tomorrow. Now I have a small question. Should I use my Cooler Master heatsink or the heatsink that came with the CPU? I have no intentions of overclocking and it was somewhat of a pain to install the CM heatsink in the first place. The CM is MASSIVE compared to what came with the CPU. I can only position it in one way with the fan on it because the memory and the GPU are in the way. I am considering using the smaller heatsink.


----------



## wkw427 (Nov 9, 2008)

Bench test it with the stock heat sink, unless you've already put a backplate on the motherboard in which case you won't be able to use the stock heat sink at all


----------



## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

The OEM heatsink will be fine and help to avoid the noted issues.
Bench test precisely as listed below.

Set the motherboard on a non conductive surface. The motherboard box is perfect for this. DO NOT PLACE THE MOTHERBOARD ON THE STATIC BAG! It can actually conduct electricity! 
Install the CPU and heat sink. 
Install 1 stick of RAM.
Install the video card and attach the power supply connection(s) to the card if your card needs it.
Connect the monitor to the video card.
Connect the power supply to the motherboard with both the 24pin main ATX Power connection and the separate 4 pin (Dual Core CPU) or 8 pin (Quad Core CPU) power connection.
Connect power to the power supply.
Do NOT connect ANYTHING else. Make sure you have the power connector on the CPU fan connected.
Use a small screwdriver to momentarily short the power switch connector on the motherboard. Consult your motherboard manual to find which two pins connect to your case's power switch. Then touch both pins with a screwdriver to complete the circuit and boot the system.

If all is well, it should power up and you should get a display. Then assemble the parts into the case and try again. If the system now fails to boot, you have a short in the case and need to recheck your motherboard standoffs.

If the system does not boot after this process, then you most likely have a faulty component. You'll need to swap parts, start with the power supply, until you determine what is defective.


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

UPDATE

Good news is that the computer can turn on and run.
Bad news is that the video doesn't seem to work.
The monitor cannot detect a signal with the GFX card and the cable plugged in. 
I'll check the connections again.


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

UPDATE, Most likely last...

While finding the problem with the video, I end up turning the computer on and off again to see if it would work. Guess what? It made a similar burning smell like last time and it won't try to turn on and run. 

I think I've officially given up. I know that this is my first build, but to have the same mistake happen twice just disappoints me. I have wasted 2 months and $1200 on a computer that runs but shut down and burn inexplicably, twice. The best was the first that actually displayed on the monitor, but that's not saying much.

All I wanted was a good, or at least decent, gaming computer and I heard that it is best to build one than to buy a pre-built one. I have saved all of that money since last summer and it was all anticipating on a new gaming computer. I think any further effort on this convoluted project is futile.

I'm sorry for wasting all of your time on my problem that led to catastrophe. I just wish I knew better.

Again, I'm sorry...


----------



## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

suggest RMA the graphics card.


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

I'm not sure about this 100%, but judging from the burn odors from the two instances, the problem may lay in the power supply, not the Mobo nor the GFX. Maybe the Corsair TX750 is too much power or something and it might have caused a short or electrical flaw. I don't know, I'm just guessing. I don't even want to bother about it right now, I'll just buy a pre-built one, I don't mind that much.


----------



## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

a power supply cannot put out too much power it only puts out what it needs. Besides didn't yyou say you had tried two different power supplies?


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

greenbrucelee said:


> a power supply cannot put out too much power it only puts out what it needs. Besides didn't yyou say you had tried two different power supplies?


That was my first PC that I had for 4 years that had a faulty MB and PSU. Come to think of it, I don't think any parts were ever replaced for it. So I actually only have one PSU that I can use. I still don't know what explains the odd burning odor or even if it resembles a burn.


----------



## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

If you suspect the PSU being the source of the burned odor, check it very carefully. Even the better quality units can fail and especially if it's 4 yrs. old.


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

I don't want to sound mean, but I don't think you are reading my posts through. Or perhaps I'm being misleading and didn't type enough...

My corsair PSU isn't 4 years old, it's 2 months old. I'm trying to build my new computer with the corsair.

The reason I'm building my new computer in the first place is because my original 4 year old one failed and won't boot up and the only solution I got was to get a new computer all together. So I got all of the new parts and built one and the first run of it was going very well... 

Until it shut itself down. I turned it on again and it ran again. It shut off again and after trying to immediately turn it on, it left a burning odor. You said the MB was the problem. So I made an RMA on it, replaced the old one and it DID run. Albeit no display, but it ran.

Since it did the same problem twice. Maybe it's not the MB. Maybe it could be the PSU? The CPU? I don't know. All I'm saying is that the problem is NOT the MB but I just want to see some possible reason(s) why a computer makes a burning odor.

At this point, I really don't want to bother with getting new parts anymore. I feel like I'm wasting my time and money and everyone's time. 

RMA requests have been expired on almost all of my stuff so I can't replace or refund them. All I can do is either trying to sell them like on eBay or something (Which I highly doubt it would work), make a futile attempt on trying to work this out (I'm sorry, but it's going nowhere from this, I know you all have other people you need to help, but nothing has helped for me. :sad, or leave my parts at home and let them collect dust.

Everything is my fault. I didn't plan this through. The computer now is a burden I cannot get rid of that easily. All I wanted was decent gaming computer. Unfortunately building one was too much to ask.


----------



## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Tyree said:


> If you suspect the PSU being the source of the burned odor, check it very carefully.


A burnt smell indicates a problem so you need to determine the source of the burned smell regardless. 
The only way to determine that a component is good/bad is substitution.


----------



## wkw427 (Nov 9, 2008)

A 2 month old PSU can be DOA, or die shortly after arrival. It isn't uncommon, and you should still check it


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

Okay... but if my PSU went on the fritz and shut my computer down, does this mean it damaged everything else? My RAM, My GPU, etc. 

Because my original computer before I started to build this new one failed due to a faulty PSU/Mobo. I feel like I've said this multiple times before.


----------



## wkw427 (Nov 9, 2008)

It is hit or miss that a PSU will fry other parts of the computer when it goes. 
Though it is a given that higher quality units tend to die quietly, and lower quality ones take the rest of your PC or even set it aflame when they die.


----------



## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Top quality PSU's have protection circuitry and rarely harm other components when they fail.
Any components that were installed when the other PSU failed would be suspect.


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

My Corsair TX750 is 80+ Bronze certified. How does that favor, good enough, not good enough or it depends?


----------



## wkw427 (Nov 9, 2008)

Anything can come DOA... Even high quality products


----------



## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

The older TX750's were SeaSonic made and top quality. The newer models are lower quality but still basically reliable, but, any PSU can fail.
Have you determined the source of the burned smell?


----------



## Iallwork (Jan 16, 2012)

Did you use any part from your old computer on your new build? yes or no? Sorry if i'm making you repeat yourself.


----------



## Iallwork (Jan 16, 2012)

I'm probably not much help, but I've been reading that the cooler master 212 plus is a pain, like you said, and some people had a hard time getting it to contact the CPU which could over heat your CPU. I have only built a couple computers so my knowledge is very limited but i do try to help. did you use the thermal paste?


----------



## wkw427 (Nov 9, 2008)

^That might just be the case..

I don't recall, but have you tried using another hsf or the stock hsf?


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

Hi! Sorry It has been a while, I just didn't bother and I am waiting to buy a new PC from CyberPowerPC or some other place for a temp computer.

Anyway, I sent the computer to a local a PC Repair store a while ago and I think their diagnosis seems quite accurate.

They said that the reason the Mobo and PSU shot off and failed is because the MB shorted with the case since 2 standoffs were missing. When I first got the case, Only 4 out of 6 standoffs were inserted. The MB I had needed all 6 positions, all 6 screws screwed in. I skipped a step and forgot to screw in the MB and standoffs. The shorting was probably the reason for the burning odor for the two failed attempts. I guess I didn't think this through. Well, it was only my very first build. So now I know better...

but I'm out ~$1200.


----------



## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

Think carefully about buying a computer from somewhere. Some retailers often charge top price and put low quality parts in the system especially the psu.


----------



## wkw427 (Nov 9, 2008)

Don't buy from cyberpowerpc.

See if you can RMA the board and say it was DOA


----------



## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

The best way to avoid a repeat of the problems is to build your own PC.
We have a good list of suggested builds that all use top quality known compatible components:http://www.techsupportforum.com/for...ams-recommended-new-builds-2012-a-668661.html

Any assistance you would require is available here 24/7 and there are a lot of tutorials on assembly available on you tube.


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

I might as well _try_ to get another RMA request. The newegg request has been LONG expired. I will try to request an RMA to ASUS since the board is an ASUS board. I don't know If I need to send an RMA for the PSU to Corsair. Then again... The repair place did say the power supply also shot off. So it's good that I'm better off spending about $400-$300 (or maybe less) on replacement parts than $800+ on a (presumably half-assed) PC from cyberpower.

Buying something on sites like cyberpower should perhaps be a last resort for me. Although I have a friend who uses an Alienware and he is doing pretty good gaming on it.

But I digress.

I will get around to finally solving this PC fiasco, even if it takes me another year.

Oh, and thanks for all of the support and aid. I found it quite informative and beneficial.

I'm sorry I got a little out of hand. I tend to take things too personally and stress over the little things.

Then again, it is my 1st build, so... yeah...


----------



## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Asus support is not hard to deal with and good luck.
Stay far away from Alienware. Overpiced and not much better quality than the CyberPower.


----------



## Vyacheslav (Dec 5, 2012)

UPDATE.

Sorry for the hold up, but I finally got both the PSU and Board from Corsair and ASUS respectively. I hooked up everything and the good news is that it practically runs without being interrupted. The bad news is that I don't see anything on the monitor. 

I hooked up the VGA cable to the board and to my GFX card with a DVI adapter. The VGA port on the board and the 2 DVI ports on the card shows no video. Usually when there's problems with the video and such, the computer would beep. However, my board (to reiterate: ASUS P8 Z77 V-LK) doesn't have a built in speaker. 

I have bought one and it works. It does beep codes when there's a problem. (one long beep, two short beeps repeating for no RAM.) But when I turn it on, there is no beep code. Normally, there is a beep code for no VGA detected. The monitor would just show "No signal, check cable" or something like that when I turn it on. But when I use the VGA cable on this laptop, The monitor works.

I don't know if this needs to be put in a different thread, I had a wide variety of problems so I don't know if it should be put someplace else.


----------

