# Anyone opened up a Logitech MX518 Mouse?



## Done_Fishin

I have this logitech mouse that after plugging into the USB port refused to power on .. at least I assume it refused since the red light underneath didn't power on. It's second hand and was assumed working at the time I was given it. 
anyway to cut a log story short, lol, I opened it up expecting to find a few wires cut as is the norm with faulty Mice .. but all showed OK. However the Wheel stayed in the top half of the mouse then fell out when I was going to put it back together again. This assembly consists of 2 springs and a couple of plastic pieces. I manged to figure out where and how to put most of the parts but one strange shaped spring eludes me. I can't see either where it could go or that the mouse might not work with it!
So if anyone has managed to open up an MX518 and succesfully put it back together would they please let me know where the thin spring goes .. not the one that keeps the wheel up (which resembles an open spring from a clothes peg) but the other one. DON"T open one to try to help .. it may not go back together again like mine ..:grin:


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## Done_Fishin

This is the Logitech MX518










site
http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/products/details/US/EN,CRID=2142,CONTENTID=10121


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## OneBadLT123

As much as I would love to help you, I did the exact same thing with my old MX500 mouse. I just ended up throwing it into my "computer junk" box in the closet and got the MX518. I never found anything on how to asseble it together again.

Good luck!


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## Done_Fishin

Thanks for sharing .. It's not the first time I ended up looking for the "impossible to find" .. I reckon though that one day I will be lucky enough to find at least one answer! :grin:


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## Mourg

is this thread still active? If you still need help email me, i recently did the same thing (hence how i came about this forum) and i have fixed it and it is working just fine now. Ill send pics of how to fix it if u shoot me an email m8.


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## Done_Fishin

Hi Mourg :wave: .. I have the mouse and (believe it or not ) it's working fine without the spring, I only use it for general mouse work ands not games .. but if you can give me some pointers as to where it should go .. I'd be really happy to digest any info that you have ..


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## Mourg

Hey, thank you for the prompt response. Im sorry to say that i don't have pics available of it yet /cry. I'm backed up with school(i'm only 17) and work but this weekend i should have time to get them taken and uploaded. Ill have links and a walkthru this weekend. Once again apologies about the holdup.


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## Done_Fishin

No sweat and thanks for taking the time & trouble to help .. really appreciated


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## Jimmy319

My scroll wheel was working on and off and I wanted to open the mouse to fix it. I was hesitant because I wasn't sure if I'd be able to put it back together. Mourg's post gave me the backup that I needed (thanks). Anyway, I'm going to post pics of how it's supposed to fit, in case anyone else wanders upon this thread.

Picture 1

Picture 2

Picture 3


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## Done_Fishin

Thanks for those Pics .. I recognise everything apart from the first photo .. is that the wheel assembly too? I don't suppose you found another spring inside when you opened at all did you? The one in your photo is one that I found and put back but was left with another one , wondering where it goes .. but should say that the mouse is working now without it.
One strange thing that I have noticed with the way the mouse works .if it gets an accidental heavy bump .. it turns off , requires unplugging and re-plugging to get it going again .. not sure if it's a fault or just susceptible to "noise" .. electrical that is ..

Mourg .. what happened to you photo's ?? having problems ??

Thanks for sharing guys


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## Jimmy319

Picture 4 Multiple Angle View of Picture 1

Picture 5 Picture of Weird Shaped Metal Piece

Picture 6 Top View of Mouse

I found two metal pieces. First is the one in the first picture. Second is the "clothes hanger" one, which is in the third picture.

Picture 1 is of the plastic piece which is to the left of the scroll wheel. It's removable and slides into these grooves. It performs the clicking function of the scroll wheel. It also serves as the piece which holds the weird shaped metal piece. That metal piece fits into the plastic piece as shown in picture one. 

In picture 4, you can see how the hook end goes into the inner wheel of the scroll wheel. It serves as the clicking/stopping mechanism of the wheel. If there's some other metal piece that you're talking about that isn't shown in the picture, please take a picture of it and I'll try to look for it in my mouse.


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## Done_Fishin

I haven't opened up my mouse again yet .. but I don't have that clicking on the mouse wheel .. so looks like the missing piece is one of these two springs there .. all I have to do is find it now .. it's been so long since I started to look for this that I have "put it away" :grin:

I'll shut down later on and put a temporary mouse in it's place whilst I open it up and look.
Thanks for those extra pictures

ray:ray:ray:

:wave:


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## Done_Fishin

I checked my mouse and I was right .. hunted everywhere for the missing spring that I would have put on one side ina very safe place .. but it's so safe that I can't even find it any more .. so shut the mouse again and will fix it when It turns up 
Thanks for your help everybody


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## MUff1N

Jimmy319 said:


> My scroll wheel was working on and off and I wanted to open the mouse to fix it. I was hesitant because I wasn't sure if I'd be able to put it back together. Mourg's post gave me the backup that I needed (thanks). Anyway, I'm going to post pics of how it's supposed to fit, in case anyone else wanders upon this thread.
> 
> Picture 1
> 
> Picture 2
> 
> Picture 3


My MX518 had a short in the cord and I managed to cut it out of the cord and splice all the wires (5) back together and it works great...*BUT, there was this one little strange bent spring on the lefthand side of the mouse wheel that I didn't have a clue how to put back in!!*! 
( the other one was obvious how to put back in) 
From what I can tell, what this little bent spring does is make the wheel have that "notched" feel to it as you pull down rotating the mouse wheel. Without this little spring in there that feel is gone and it just rotates freely with out the notching which feels weird to me...but it still work fine without it but I want that back.
So I "Googled" Logitech MX518 Assembly and it brought me to this thread. 
Thank you so much for posting these picks of the spring assembly in the mouse!!! ray:
I now have my mouse working perfectly like it came out of the box!!! :grin:


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## Done_Fishin

Hi Muff1n & Welcome to the forum .. I'm glad that we were able to help .. Mu mouse doesn't have that notched feeling any more cos I put the spring somewhere safe til I found out where it went .. :grin: but it works just as well without it ..


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## MUff1N

Thanks for the Welcome! :wave:
I hate when I put something away to keep it "safe", then not being able to find it later! :laugh:

Yea I got this mouse 8 months ago with my new computer system & this is one of the few things (perpetuals) that's not covered by my extended 3 year warranty...
So I figured I had nothing to loose by trying to fix this myself because I already have an electronics soldering iron and solder.
I have no idea why it would short out in the cord where it enters the mouse. Its not like there's a lot of stress put on the cord with it moving around the mouse pad! LOL 
Anyways, I was extremely pleased when all was said and done and it worked like new again! :grin:
But if it wasn't for those posted pics of the MX518 wheel and spring assembly, I never would have figured out how to get that spring back in right. :4-dontkno


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## Done_Fishin

for years now corded mice have had one major failing .. the lead .. it's constantly flexing all the time as it is being moved. This flexing even though very slight has the affect of slowly breaking the strands in the wires inside. Some may even work their way slowly through the insulation. if two adjacent wires manage to poke a bit of wire out of the mouse at the same point there is a possibility of shorting, as has happened to you. More often than not the wires eventually part and lose contact stopping the mouse from functioning. 
In Electric Steam Irons it's not unusual for the resultant shorting by the handle where the cable comes out to give the user a fright when the wires eventually short, a small explosion occurs and the fuse fails in the fusebox. It's all part of the same syndrome. One way that the problem has been combatted is to try to restrict the flexing of the cable at the point of exit. Whilst Electric Steam Irons have now a flexible support tube at the point of exit, as yet mice don't. Probably because it's somewhat restrictive and makes the mouse feel clumsy afterwards. It's probably also why the cordless mouse came along whose disadvantage is not cable but battery replacement or recharging .
When I find mice with this type of problem I tend to cut back and solder directly to the board inside adding a small bit of tubing to restrict movement at the exit point.


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## MUff1N

Yea, I guess I put more than my share of wear and tear on the mouse cable by flexing it when I move it back and forth on the pad (2'x 2' Giant pad) while gaming.
I usually play about 4-8 hrs a day on my system so that would account for the quick demise of the cable shorting out... 

Yea, that's what I did was cut the cable back 4" and spiced it back together inside the mouse instead of direct soldering because it's got a 5 pin header on the board for the cable. 
If I can find a replacement 5 pin plug at Radioshack then I'll just replace that and have the cord directly to the plug. But what I did worked just fine too because it's inside the mouse with no stress on the splices.

The next time this happens I'm going to add some heat shrink to the cord at the entry point and that should help it to last longer...with any luck...LOL
At least now I "know" how to put the mouse and spring assembly back in correctly... :grin:


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## Done_Fishin

You can always note the colour arrangements of the wires to the pins.Remove the connector, poke the wires through the holes (after stripping a bit of the wire insulation back) and solder the wires to the board direct. Use a solder sucker or braid to remove solder from the board so that the connector pins come out easily without damaging the tracks. I have a very fine tip on my soldering iron so I soldered directly to the connector pins of the removable side of the connector.

it'll take a few years though for the problem to show again .. but you'll be ready for everything


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## Zaq

I had a short in my MX518 cable as well, but I managed to solder the USB wires onto the board. The wheel scroll is working properly, but what's odd is that the normal left click and right click buttons aren't working any more (as well as the wheel-click button). Could this be because of bad soldering? I already checked my solder work, and none seemed to touch each other.

Any insights?


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## Done_Fishin

more likely that you didn't reassemble properly, maybe a part dropped out that makes contact or you have left the front sitting high so it no longer pushes down on the buttons


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## xxgamxx

MUff1N said:


> My MX518 had a short in the cord and I managed to cut it out of the cord and splice all the wires (5) back together and it works great...*BUT, there was this one little strange bent spring on the lefthand side of the mouse wheel that I didn't have a clue how to put back in!!*!
> ( the other one was obvious how to put back in)
> From what I can tell, what this little bent spring does is make the wheel have that "notched" feel to it as you pull down rotating the mouse wheel. Without this little spring in there that feel is gone and it just rotates freely with out the notching which feels weird to me...but it still work fine without it but I want that back.
> So I "Googled" Logitech MX518 Assembly and it brought me to this thread.
> Thank you so much for posting these picks of the spring assembly in the mouse!!! ray:
> I now have my mouse working perfectly like it came out of the box!!! :grin:


I was wondering if you could tell me how you would be able to pick out at what part the cable shorted cause I'm having the same exact problem with the cable.


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## Done_Fishin

Normally it's at the point of exit from the mouse right where it bends 

best to cut and resolder the wires using th same colour inside the mouse but make sure you use isolating sleeves over the joints to stop wires from shorting again where they have been spliced.

Alternatively , I usually solder to the board after removing the connector and socket 

note what colour goes where and only do this if you are experience at soldering.


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## DanAmrich

Not to resurrect a dead thread, but I wanted to register and thank you all for the insight and help in this thread. I just took apart my MX518 to remove cat hair and dust that was clogging the wheel, and when I did, SPROING! Out came little bits of metal. I figured I'd just ruined my mouse, but a Google search turned up this thread and those excellent photos and...well, 15 minutes later, I was back in one piece.

Just a drive-by of gratitude. Carry on.


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## Done_Fishin

Glad we could be of help .. and that is all what we are about .. someone has a problem, others jump in to give a hand then somewhere down the line someone else has a problem which gets fixed .. it's great that we could be of help again :wave:

pass by any time you need anything .. that's what we are here for.


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## Steve-S

Thank You, Thank You, Thank You.

I opened mine up to clean the wheel, as it was intermitent, and the springs fell of as I was cleaning it. Kept trying to put the 'funny shaped' one back on backwards (wouldn't fit for some reason  ). It's now back together and running great. I'll keep the replacement, which I got for Christmas, in the closet as a backup. :laugh:


<edit> Just looked at the dates. Wow. 2 in one day and both cat hair & dirt on the wheel. This world sure is getting small with this here Internet thing. :laugh:

Thank you again.
Steve-S
:wave:


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## Done_Fishin

Welcome .. and you're welcome .. the great thing is that you also know that there is an online archive to help you fix your mouse. 

Have fun and pop back anytime you need any further help, that's what we are here for


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## grimx133

While I've never had occasion for this, I'm sure glad this thread is around. The MX-518 is pretty much the only one I use, have 4 of them and another on the way, one of those things that you can never have enough of, best mouse out there.

So, thanks in advance, hopefully way in advance.


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## Done_Fishin

I like mine too, even though missing a bit (that I never found), it works like a charm but just doesn't click when I use the wheel in the middle :grin:


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## BigGunn

You guys are lifesavers!

My MX518 was giving me fits working intermittently, so I figured I'd take it apart and see what was what.

Turns out the USB cord had a short in it, so I found one of many old Logitech Optical Wheel Mice I had laying around (dunno where I got em all) and swapped em out. Worked like a dream.

Only problem was that I had these 2 springs and had no idea where they went. Google brought me here and the pics showed me and now my mouse is good as new!!!!!

Plan on keeping the other old mice handy in case the cord should short again!!


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## Done_Fishin

Musty be an epidemic :grin: but it's great to see so many people have been helped by my original problem .. 

Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread, helping us all and helping all those that come after us.


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## max_08

Hello guys!

I have the same MX518 mouse which a friend gave it to me since the wheel doesn't work properly anymore. I tried cleaning up the interior (thanks to those wonderful pics) but to no avail. The wheel still not working properly. Can someone point me to the right direction?

Thanks in advance


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## Done_Fishin

when you say not working properly what do you mean. not functioning or doesn't feel right.

my wheel just doesn't click due to a missing spring but it functions well otherwise


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## max_08

Thanks for the reply Done_Fishin.

I mean when I scroll it, the scrollbar just goes up or down by few mm only and takes effort if I want to scroll to the top of the page. I think the wheel is still functioning, but something is wrong somewhere, like the sensor that detects the wheel scrolling isn't sensitive anymore or something. 

I installed the latest Mouseware but still no difference.


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## Done_Fishin

the wheel may not have seated properly or you have somehow assembled it with the timing wheel not sitting between the sensors, the sensor got moved or bent out of position.

it should look like this 









the light shines through the slots in the big wheel, Check it's all clean, in position and that the sensors either side haven't been disturbed ie bent out of position. they should be more or less vertical


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## max_08

Hah, it turns out there's some dust on the right sensor which I didn't give attention to clean before. Cleared it up and it works again :grin:

Thanks a lot for your time Done_Fishin :smile:


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## Done_Fishin

Glad you got it working .. come back again for any other problems you may face later .. and not necessarily with the mouse :wave:


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## RizlaUK

Hi,

Does anybody have the order in which the wires need to be soldered to the pcb, my wires came away from white 'plug in socket' and i don't know which order i need.

Thanks in advance

Rizla


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## Done_Fishin

Did you check the pictures in this thread ?? let me know and if there is nothing there to help you I'll take a photo for you and post it here


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## Done_Fishin

Haven't heard from you so I took a photo










not my best work :grin: but it should help you.

from left to right the colours are 

pin 1 - Black (sheath - thicker lead)
pin 2 - Black
pin 3 - Red
pin 4 - White 
pin 5 - Green

the keying is on the "out of sight" side
pin 1 is by the cap on the left


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## hitandrun

Does anyone know why my left mouse button would "unclick" itself when held down? I stumbled across this post when I took the mouse apart to look around inside and couldn't figure out how to put it back together. I have it put back together but my problem remains.

For example, when playing a game like Modern Warfare 2, I will hold down the left mouse button to fire a weapon. Sometimes the mouse will act as if I have released the left mouse button when I still have it held down. I have to take my finger off the button and re-click. It is very frustrating when in a firefight and I start shooting and only 1 bullet comes out and by the time I realize that my mouse isn't working properly, I am already dead. I'd hate to have to buy a new mouse just because of this as every other feature on the mouse still works perfectly.


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## Done_Fishin

try replacing the "momentary switch" it may "feel" like it's working properly but doing what is known as "bouncing" ie the switch contacts "make" and then "break" then "make" again or lose contact shortly after the initial "make" occurs without releasing switch pressure. It may also be a cable related thing but more likely the "switch"


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## hitandrun

Thanks for the reply. I opened up the mouse again to look for the "momentary switch" but couldn't identify it. I cleaned the dust that was inside the mouse but there really wasn't much. After putting the mouse back together the left mouse button no longer responds to anything so it looks like I will just be buying a new mouse.


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## Done_Fishin

may be similar on the other side of the wheel .. look for the place the button from the outside should make contact and that will be your faulty switch.


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## becca beep beep

Thanks so much for the picture showing the guts of the mouse! My mouse started double clicking when I clicked once. I took it apart to clean it and there was a spring laying inside and I started cleaning it and pulled out the wheel and the base the wheel sits on when a spring popped out of somewhere. I figured I would need to buy a new mouse. My mouse is actually a Logitech M-UVDEL1, but looked exactly the same. So I was able to put both springs back in the correct spot and now it works like new...RAD!


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## Done_Fishin

Another satisfied customer .. thanks for the feedback :wave:

pop by any time you feel you need any advice, whether just to read or to ask. :smile:


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## ostermann

Done_Fishin said:


> Haven't heard from you so I took a photo
> 
> from left to right the colours are
> 
> pin 1 - Black (sheath - thicker lead)
> pin 2 - Black
> pin 3 - Red
> pin 4 - White
> pin 5 - Green


Thank you VERY much! While tinkering I forgot to note the color order, so this saved me ~50 dollars! Plus tomorrow is a bank holiday in Norway, so I would have to spend more than a day without my mouse 

Googling 'mx518 assembly' brought me here. I also searched for 'mx518 usb connector' (and now that search will now bring others here as soon as google's spiders index this page again). 

My MX518 has served me faithfully for 7 years, and now I'll hope I get at least 7 more


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## Done_Fishin

So glad that my original request for help been useful for so many others.

Nice mouse .. I can understand why you want to keep it in use.:wave:


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## supenoc

Hi, yet another help with mx518 needed 
I noticed that the right mouse button sometimes stopped responding so I opened up my mouse to clean it and now the right button doesn't work at all. All other parts are just fine so I'd hate to have to buy a new mouse. I guess it has something to do with the switch but dunno what to do with it :/ It seems just fine.


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## Done_Fishin

if it seems to be working when it's open ( try pressing it and feeling/listening for the click) there is a possibility that the mouse cover hasn't clipped to the base properly, and the plastic plunger isn't meeting the switch. Another possibility is the board hasn't located properly so not placing the switch under the plastic that is supposed to push it down .. or in a worse case something has broken inside and the switch is no longer within reach when the outer plastic is pushed down.


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## supenoc

Done_Fishin said:


> if it seems to be working when it's open ( try pressing it and feeling/listening for the click) there is a possibility that the mouse cover hasn't clipped to the base properly, and the plastic plunger isn't meeting the switch. Another possibility is the board hasn't located properly so not placing the switch under the plastic that is supposed to push it down .. or in a worse case something has broken inside and the switch is no longer within reach when the outer plastic is pushed down.


Wow, thanks for such a fast response.
It's not working even when it's open. I figured that it might be the cover but that's not the case as I'm pressing the switch directly. Tried to add some pressure on it but it doesn't really help. Do you know whether the switch can be fixed somehow? Don't think that it has to do something with any contacts as only right button is affected.


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## Done_Fishin

You'll have to look for a replacement switch

Unfortunately every mouse seems to have a different mechanism below the plastic so you'd have to find a store that sell that type of switch. Most use what are known as "Tact" switches and this mouse doesn't use that type. the switches are similar to this that I found.. you'll have to measure the actual switch size and spacing between pins, possibly remove the switch lever if fitted too

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?moduleno=6451


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## supenoc

Looks like it's gonna be difficult  wish me best of luck then, thanks very much for your help


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## Done_Fishin

do a search for subminiature microswitches .. at electronics retailers (on-line of course) 

Digi-key, Donberg, mouser, RS components, Farnell are just a few possible places to search that sell electronic components 

just make sure that you check the size being sold against the size of the device in the mouse. also check that it's pcb mounting as opposed to soldered wire.

Good Luck


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## dmkc1207

Jimmy, Mourg, Done Fishin...thank you guys!!....the pics & advice in this thread saved my mouse, even as old as this is and I registered just to thank you..thank god for the internet, google & geeks like here!


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## Done_Fishin

Thanks from all of us ... pop i whenever you feel like fixing something .... or helping someone fix something


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## studio54

Done_Fishin said:


> Thanks from all of us ... pop i whenever you feel like fixing something .... or helping someone fix something


Hi,
Can someone tell me how the scroll wheel works? My scroll wheel stopped working a couple of days ago. I opened up the mouse (MX518) took out the wheel, cleaned it up with canned air. Blew more air in the wheel mechanisms seat where the wheel sits and the wheel was working fine.
Then woke up this morning, fired up the pc and the scroll wheel stopped working again. 
How does the scroll wheel read the clicks as the wheel turns exactly?


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## Done_Fishin

light passes through the wheel from a transmitter to the receiver .. as the wheel moves the "struts" block the light path and the receiver changes state. The state is transferred to the processor on the mouse and the data transferred via the cable.

Check the cabling as it exits the mouse. Most likely you have a break somewhere.


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## Vodox

I had been given a MX518 mouse (like the one is this post) without cable! but the mouse is working as i know and i would like to know if i buy an USB cable i can add it so i can use the mouse. I saw the cable colors in previus post but i dont know if with a normal USB cable i can make it work again. And if so how many cables has the usb inside and what order i have to conect them. 

thanks in advantage and i am sorry for my bad english


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## Done_Fishin

There is a picture shown in post #40 showing the connector where the USB cable is connected. It's the cable and connector at the front of the mouse with 5 wires. I wouldn't go by colour coding since they may chosen any colour that they felt like whilst with USB cables there does tend to be some standardisation .. if you cut back a USB cable get one that has an outer braiding and is supple enough to flex easily

you'll need a multimeter in order to check for continuity, prove what cable is ground, what pin is ground on the connector. then do the same for the 5V.


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## Vodox

The think is that i dont have a cable for the mouse. I need to buy one cable and "stick" a white pin like the one that was from the factory. So i need to go and buy a Cable and put it in the mouse. The thing is that i dont know what cable i need. For sure it must end to an USB, but as i "wiki" usb the cable has 4 smaller cables inside.....


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## Vodox

[url]http://www.bealecorner.org/best/measure/USB/USB-cable-wiring.png[/URL]
this is what i found for USB cable. But there are only 4 cables as i can see.... where i will find the 5th? :S what kind of cable-USB is that used int he mouse? pls help me i need to fix it


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## Done_Fishin

the 5th cable is an outer braiding or shielding like used in aerial cables .. that's why I said before that you need to get a cable tat has 4 wires and an outer shield or braiding.

the voltage and ground wires are easy to find .. I'll try to find time to open up my mouse and list the colours and positions for you ..


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## Done_Fishin

your photo shows the braid .. that's your 5th wire


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## Done_Fishin

Sorry for the delayed response .. been busy, away and trying to catch up on things ..

the USB connector 

Black, Green, White, Red from left to right when the opening is towards you and the contacts above the ceramic isolator.

From the earlier picture that means that the connections are ..

The braid or outer shielding wire connected to connector J2 pin 1 in the mouse 
Black is connected to J2 pin 2
Red is connected to J2 pin 3
White is connected to J2 pin 4
Green is connected to J2 pin 5

check the colours in your cable against their connections in the USB connector and then ensure that the connections go to the correct positions on J2.


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## Atari-

I just registered here to say thanks! My MX518's cable had completely stopped working but I replaced it with an old mouse's cable and now it works perfectly and now Logitech is also sending me a replacement because it was under warranty! (Also thanks for the pics, I was trying to figure out what that spring to the right of the wheel was...) Thanks!


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## Done_Fishin

Any time .. pop in whenever you feel in the need of a little bit of help .. 

:wave:


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## Freelancer852

Awesome thread guys! I've had an MX518 for at least 6 years now, unfortunately a friend of mine knocked a soda onto it at a big national LAN party a couple years ago and the right-click became harder to use and was irregular when applying pressure! Bought a Logitech MX Revolution to replace it, and a Logitech G9x to replace that since the wireless was giving me issues while gaming...

I had never bothered to try and take the MX518 apart to clean it until now, I needed a mouse for another computer that I just build _(12TB RAID-6 home file server)_. I tried my luck with Logitech a few days ago with a support ticket by requesting a Service Manual. They told me such information is deemed "proprietary" and therefore they couldn't give it to me. So I went a Googleing for "MX518 Disassembly" and low and behold! This thread! At least Logitech offered me a 50% off "Loyalty Discount" at their online store for my trouble...

Popped out the bottom three screws immediately after seeing how easy it looked from the pictures in this thread. Then I proceeded to inspect and clean out around the wheel assembly and momentary switches which will probably help in the long run here. Wasn't really that dirty there anyways and the momentary switch for the right mouse button seemed to be very clean and responsive to the touch anyways. That led me to believe that it was probably just sticky soda goo residue around the actual silvery-black portion of the buttons. Undid all the silver screws on the top portion of the mouse, carefully removed the momentary switch package from the top side of the mouse, and then took out three more silver screws that held the silvery-black top of the mouse to the main body. Cleaned the silvery-black portion, wheel, black bracket that the wheel protrudes through, and the main mouse body in soapy water and it's good as new!

Thanks again for a push in the right direction!


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## Done_Fishin

so glad once again that this thread has been helpful .. and that's what we are here for ..

:wave:


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## Steve-S

I am occasionally surprised by a notice that this thread has been posted to. Looking back it was Dec 2008 when I fixed that mouse. I'm still using it. The spare is still in the box. Man these are excellent mice. Great thread. 

Thanks Done-Fishin'

Steve-S


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## Done_Fishin

You too are most welcome .. mines also still working !! :wave:


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## segovia103

Had to register just to say thanks for the information and pictures in this thread. My MX518's scroll wheel also stopped responding to scroll down movements. The mouse was working fine apart from this and I had no replacement so I was hesitant about opening it up. 

Having found this thread I decided to give it a shot and managed to remove a fistful of cat hair from it. Works like new now, although the wheel is almost too responsive but I'll get used to it.

Spent about 10 minutes trying to figure out where a small piece of plastic I had left over would fit back into it. Later realised it was off the tweezers I had used to remove the hair! 

Thanks again!


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## Done_Fishin

:wave: Glad we were of help & thanks for your feedback ..


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## Wendy_13

Jimmy,

I had to join techsupportforum.com just so I could thank you for the wonderful pictures of the Logitech mouse. The scroll wheel assembly fell out and there was no way that I was going to be able to figure out how to put it back together again. I did an online search and came upon your pics, and now my mouse is fixed. Thank you so very much. You'll probably never show up again since you've only done two posts, but I HAD to say thank you anyway.


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## SuspectX86

*CHEAP & EASY SOLUTION*

My MX-518 USB cable was broken and short circuiting because of metal fatigue.
So I found a amazing solution, cheap and very easy...

Tools needed:
- just a screw driver
- Logitech Mouse (Cheapest you can buy)

Disassemble your broken mouse and donor mouse. Any modern Logitech mouse will do, I just happened to have a brand new Logitech M100. So I was thinking to myself, could it be possible that Logitech uses the same hardware for all there mouses. I disassembled both mouses and my hypothesis was correct. I just plugged the pin out of the broken mouse and plugged the new one in.... DONE... Other parts are also exchangeable like mouse wheels, springs etc... 

And as for the spring... It's function is to keep the mouse wheel up in front of the scroll sensor and makes you able to scroll... without it you're mouse can't detect the scrolls.

Cheers


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## Done_Fishin

very handy tip for those that aren't able to cope with soldering 

Thanks 

:wave:


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## ezra00

I too registered simply to say thanks. I wasted 2 days looking for software answers (including trying all the options on this page). I was totally baffled by how it could be that my mouse worked when it was upside-down but not right-side-up... :4-dontkno Done_Fishin's post made my day. ray: I went for the slice and splice option (took ~30 minutes to repaid, had to carefully strip the thin wires with wrong-sized wire stripper) and my 5-10 yr old mouse is as good as new. It is a Dell M-UVDEL1 which I believe is an OEM of the Logitech M100.

Regards and thanks!
Ezra


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## Done_Fishin

Thanks for your feedback Ezra .. Glad we have been of service :laugh:


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## Noir79

Thanks everyone for this wonderful thread. With it, I managed to get my old MX518 to be perfectly working again.
Except for the stickiness on the grip - does anyone has a long-term remedy for it?


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## Done_Fishin

That's not something I have come across. you could try cleaning it with soap and water but use a cotton bud or cotton wool and wipe delicately without too much water on the cotton .. wet & squeeze dry then wipe making sure that no liquid gets inside the mouse.


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## lsunspot

Jimmy319 said:


> My scroll wheel was working on and off and I wanted to open the mouse to fix it. I was hesitant because I wasn't sure if I'd be able to put it back together. Mourg's post gave me the backup that I needed (thanks). Anyway, I'm going to post pics of how it's supposed to fit, in case anyone else wanders upon this thread.
> 
> Picture 1
> 
> Picture 2
> 
> Picture 3


life saver. thank you man


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## sn4p

thank you! saved my life and mouse!


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## WhubblesBuddy

Thanks, all of you, for the photos. This time when I opened up the MX518 mouse to clean the scroll wheel, the spring that suspends the wheel popped out, and I did not remember how it went back.


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## vkyincal

Jimmy319 said:


> My scroll wheel was working on and off and I wanted to open the mouse to fix it. I was hesitant because I wasn't sure if I'd be able to put it back together. Mourg's post gave me the backup that I needed (thanks). Anyway, I'm going to post pics of how it's supposed to fit, in case anyone else wanders upon this thread.
> 
> Picture 1
> 
> Picture 2
> 
> Picture 3


Thanks, I have assembled my logitech mouse model M-REC95 with the help of your pictures.Thank you very much. God bless you.
Bye


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## nobuggin

Jimmy319 said:


> My scroll wheel was working on and off and I wanted to open the mouse to fix it. I was hesitant because I wasn't sure if I'd be able to put it back together. Mourg's post gave me the backup that I needed (thanks). Anyway, I'm going to post pics of how it's supposed to fit, in case anyone else wanders upon this thread.
> 
> Picture 1


Thank you! The first photo was of invaluable help.
I even went thru the prickles of compulsory registration to say that.

Also, first photo applies to the other mice models.

BTW, I wonder how comfortable is wheel scrolling w/o this "ratchet" spring (the other source on the subject is instructables.com where Anonymous is describing how to remove it to achieve more smooth scrolling)


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## Done_Fishin

> BTW, I wonder how comfortable is wheel scrolling w/o this "ratchet" spring (the other source on the subject is instructables.com where Anonymous is describing how to remove it to achieve more smooth scrolling)


I never did find out where I put that spring and whilst it felt "different" at first, it hasn't really bothered me. There is just no resistance to using the scroll wheel. I should mention though that I do not do gaming, just browsing the web and editing photo's apart from "work"


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## h4rdw1r3d

How do you actually take apart the body of the mouse without breaking it? I see no screws, clips, or anything. I tried poking around in the gaps with a pair of tweezers but nothing seemed to budge.


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## WereBo

Hi h4rdw1r3d and welcome to TSF :wave:

You usually need something a bit sturdier than tweezers, a small-bladed pocket-knife or a thin-(but quite wide) bladed electronic-screwdriver.

It's best to practice on an old mouse first to get the knack, but carefully prise the 2 halves of the shell apart with the blade. It's often handy to have a 2nd implement to hold the gap open, as you manoeuvre the 1st blade along.

Be prepared to have the plastic lugs that hold it all together break though, they're brittle plastic and aren't really designed to be opened again.

NOTE: it's impossible to open a mouse without causing some slight damage to the smooth edges, where the tool's prised against it. If it's a nuisance afterwards (assuming it's been opened, repaired and reassembled :lol, a light rubbing with very fine sand/emery-paper will remove them.


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## Done_Fishin

I don't remember getting notified about an update or updates to this thread and it's great to see that it is still being used although Imageshack has lost a few pictures along the way since they were first put up. 

I usually use my thumbnail to prise open plastic parts after removing any screws that holds the halves together. Nails might break but it usually is a safer less scary way to do it that using any other instrument that might accidentally slip inside under pressure and do damage when the halves open. I do sometimes use a small screwdriver or piece of plastic to hold the parts open after slightly prising apart to assit in getting the parts apart. use without pressure.. It's just to help keep a gap between parts so that the thumbnail can work fartyher down the body.


Take care when trying to open. Most times there is at least one screw accessed from the bottom of the mouse and may be hidden under a label, the covers that act as feet to slide across the mouse pad or even a quality control sticker. If you run your finger (with a little pressure) over the surfaces that are "covered" by labels etc you will note that there will possibly be a hole below. I don't bother removing labels I just use a small cross head screwdriver to open the hole IN THE LABEL and look for a screw head below. MAny mice only have one screw .. the MX has 3 ... two at the cable exit and one under the main label at the back


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## joeten

A guitar pick works well for a lot of jobs.


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