# Release Break Toro Z-Master shuts down



## webuild

I have a 2011 Toro 60" Deck Z Master 3000-5000 series Kohler Engine. I am not to mechanic savvy, however I have just replaced battery, fuel lines, fuel filter, changed oil, new oil filter, flushed gas and replaced, checked and tested electrical components, and all is good. Engine has 73 hours, however this said I did this because machine was sitting for two years. Starts right up sounds great, but when I release break, prior to engaging handles inward, the motor shuts off. Any suggestions what is going on?


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## AVB

It be a little easier to look-up the manual if you could post the 5 digit model number and any letters after it from the serial number tag. 

It does sounds like the operator seat switch circuit is giving a problem but need to look at the electrical diagrams to see how it set up.


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## webuild

AVB, thank you for you interest in my problem, here is the model and serial number :
74244 240002037


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## AVB

I have some bad news for you. It not a 2011 model but a 2004 according to model and serial number. The engine may have been replaced in 2011.

Now to the electrical problem. This uses an advance operator safety system.
In the operator seat system there several components that the problem could be with.


Seat Switch
Tilt Switch
Time delay relay
Brake switch


First unplug the operator seat switch and jumper the connector.
Remove the 4 bolts to the pocket. Remove the pocket.
Connect a VOM positive lead to the violet wires on the module (Fig. 344). Connect the negative lead tothe battery negative terminal.
While sitting in the seat, follow the procedure below to test the delay module function.
Disengage the parking brake.
Pull the right and left motion control levers out of the neutral position.
Turn the ignition key to the RUN position.
The meter should read approximately 12 volts DC.
Lift off the seat or disconnect one of the seat jumper wire leads. The meter should hold around 12 volts and then read 0 volts DC after approximately 1 to 3 seconds. This test shows the delay module is working.
 
If you do not get 12 volts DC at the violet wire when turning the ignition switch to the RUN position, verify the following:
12VDC at the Tan wire terminal.
12VDC at the Brown wire terminal.(wiring diagram has this as Orange)
0 VDC at the Gray wire terminal. (wiring diagram has this as Black; also this is ground)
If all these conditions are met, replace the seat delay module.
 
If no voltage on the Brown (Orange) wire with the ignition on then there is no voltage from the ignition switch which you need to verify that if it is bad or bad electrical connection.
If no voltage on the Tan wire check voltage on the Grey wire at the seat switch connector if not present then the Tilt switch may be bad.
Note: these are the instructions in the repair manual for doing this test and I have seen wire colors to be different but sometime they try to stick with the noted colors.


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## webuild

Thank you, I will attempt to go through your given procedures, and advise what I found out. Again, I truly appreciate your advise and help....


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## webuild

Could you send me th manual so I am working along with that diagram or page you mentioned, I tried searching on the 2004 Toro site however it tells me the serial number is in valid...hmmmm confused


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## SABL

> I have some bad news for you. It not a 2011 model but a 2004 according to model and serial number. The engine may have been replaced in 2011.


That's exactly what I was thinking.........I have the same model and it's a 2004 with 500 hours. This mower should have a "Z Stand" unless it has been removed.

Let us know how things work out......I can take a closer look at mine once I pull it out of the garage today if you are still having trouble. Yep.....it's time for another 'bucking bronco' ride to mow the lawn. I keep minimum tire pressure to absorb some of the jolts as I hit the rough spots in my yard. But....make sure the rear tires have the same psi or you will get an uneven cut.

Make sure to monitor the hydraulic fluid and change as directed......200 hours for a complete oil/filter change. The oil will be Mobile1 15W-50....do not deviate. Kohler says 20W-50 (I think) but the pump maker calls for 15W-50......I'll go with the OEM on this.


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## SABL

Try this......select manuals and look at the bottom right side with 198 pages. "492-9151 Rev"

https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails/?id=27843


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## webuild

SABL, Thank you, I am going to take a look now..


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## SABL

I've looked at the manual a few times, myself......:laugh:

Toro has quite a number of manuals available online........for now. I have all of the ones pertaining to my mower downloaded and stored on my computer. 

My mower was built a wee bit before yours.......mine is number 545 according to the serial number. It _is_ the exact same model as yours.

**The manual should cover everything in regard to your mower. The smaller manuals cover individual areas.


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## webuild

When punching in the model number and serial number it comes back telling me the serial number is invalid


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## SABL

You shouldn't need to punch in the model number......if you get the same page I'm getting.


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## AVB

webuild said:


> Could you send me th manual so I am working along with that diagram or page you mentioned, I tried searching on the 2004 Toro site however it tells me the serial number is in valid...hmmmm confused


This link should work for the manuals; just click manuals and select the 198 page service manual to download as the others are for the hydros and spindle repair.

https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails/?id=27843

https://www.toro.com/getpub/32425


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## AVB

SABL said:


> You shouldn't need to punch in the model number......if you get the same page I'm getting.


actually it the other way around SABL. You need the model number but not the serial but the serial will help on if its the 2004 or 2005 model year.


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## SABL

AVB said:


> actually it the other way around SABL. You need the model number but not the serial but the serial will help on if its the 2004 or 2005 model year.


What I meant was the model number is already present on the page.....you should not need to enter anything. The serial numbers listed should cover every unit of that model number whether '04 or '05.....I have my doubts that they manufactured 999,999 units.....:grin: The serial would be needed in case of warranty......but that has long expired.


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## SABL

Make sure the interlock under the seat is connected. If it's connected make sure it is functioning correctly by testing continuity when the seat is occupied......weight on the seat closes the loop for the circuit. The seat plays no part when it comes to starting the mower.....as long as the brake is engaged, the PTO is off, and the sticks are in the neutral locked position. Safety interlocks are found on page 20 of the service manual.

I just confirmed the above with an identical mower (mine......:grin. If the engine dies when releasing the brake you have a problem with the seat switch or circuit. I do not have to be seated on the mower to engage the starting system.

**I forgot to confirm the facts after finishing the mowing yesterday.......sorry.

There is a decal on the deck in the spindle access area (under the foot rest) in regard to lubrication.......make sure to follow the instructions. The spindles are $400+ each.....easier to use a grease gun than replace a spindle (and much cheaper). But.....if the spindle housing is intact you can replace a worn bearing. Much cheaper but still not as easy as using a grease gun.


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## webuild

Ieverything you send me has been extremely useful. I am now waiting on my mechanic tomorrow to proceed with the step you have given, I will keep you informed on our progress and success. ..


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## SABL

Great......:thumb:

I tested a few things on my mower just to make sure. I never ran my mower much until 2011........two of my sons did all the lawn chores......:laugh: Once they got their own apartment I was on my own. Actually I was very leery of something that didn't have a steering wheel and a brake pedal.......I got over it. I've made a mistake or two that had me scratching my head......the biggest one was not setting the brake when shutting the mower off in the yard. Then I wondered why the starter didn't work......:huh: 

For many years I spent 8+ hours mowing my lawn each time with a lawn tractor......the sons weren't interested. Once I got the commercial mower I never had to cut again when they lived with me......:grin: I can now get the lawn mowed in 2 hours and use 75% less fuel. The oil only needs changed once per season......same for sharpening the blades. Initial outlay on the cost is kinda steep but overall it's cheaper to run and saves time. The key is maintenance.......or it gets very expensive.


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