# Huskee log splitter with the Briggs engine



## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

ok guys I'm not gonna be able to afford the log spliter I originally wanted, due to money issues and the fact that it will only split a log 16 inches in diameter, the one I'm getting says ANY diameter, but its a Huskee, made by Speeco, the 22 ton has a Brigs 6.5 horse engine on that's a vertical shaft like a lawn mower. My question for anybody that knows is.....is the engine on the Huskee worth the $1000 that the splitter is gonna cost me? 
How long will it last
how hard is it gonna be to start
will it end up liek my lawnmower after three months ( mowers a door stop )


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Which one of these 22 ton models?
SpeeCo Inc. Farming accessories and tools, log splitters, post hole diggers and custom manufacturing.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Go with a horizontal engine, most vertical shaft engines are only designed for a couple of hundred hours. But seeing how you trashed a new mower really quick, consider renting one every month or so. I think Briggs makes 3 grades of horizontal engines.

All small engines can be hard to start if they have been setting a couple of months. Treating the fuel I think really helps. I got my generator fired up after 3 pulls, but I cheat and use starting fluid after 2-3 pulls. The gas is from 2012. Small engine equipment needs to be stored in a shed or garage, not just covered up outside.

BG


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

Wrench it would be the one Number 40123300, last one before the log catcher

BG, thanks for the advice, I'll see if I can afford a horizontal shaft one, but all Huskee offers ion Horizontal is the Honda GX engine so....
But either way I'm gonna clean out my shes of all the left over crap I've collected for years and years and cover it up when not in use and place it in the shed.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

At $170 the motor is not the commercial model for sure> http://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-32-Inch-Crankshaft-126L02-1015-F1/dp/B002FVA1WE


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

I don't know who anymore, is making engines other than China-sad.

BG


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

Wrench97 said:


> At $170 the motor is not the commercial model for sure> Amazon.com: Briggs & Stratton 190cc 675 Series Push Mower Engine with 7/8-Inch x 3-5/32-Inch Length Crankshaft 126L02-1015-F1: Patio, Lawn & Garden


Thanks for eth link  with my mechanical knowledge I can change teh engine to any configuration I want so I bookmarked engines on Amazon



Basementgeek said:


> I don't know who anymore, is making engines other than China-sad.
> 
> BG


Me, but I'm limited to Frankenstiening them.

However guys I did the research and found that the Honda engines are no better or worse than the Briggs engines due to something inside the way they are built


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## k2skier (Sep 30, 2008)

wolfen1086 said:


> Thanks for eth link  with my mechanical knowledge I can change teh engine to any configuration I want so I bookmarked engines on Amazon
> 
> 
> Me, but I'm limited to Frankenstiening them.
> ...


If you're referring to vertical engines, the OHC Honda engine is their cheap entry point engine, over head cam. The good Honda engines are OHV.

add- they also may make OHC in horizontal also.


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

All I know is I'm probably gonna end up with teh Huskee with the 6.75 Brigs vertical shaft engine. I've been reading reviews and asking questions all over the place about it and out of about 100 reviews I only found one bad one about it, and it was oil related with a low oil causing engine problems, well, I am in the habit of checking oil on all engines BEFORE starting them, so other than priming more than it says I might be ok with the Briggs.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Starting in cold weather can be a problem, especially the older they get.

Using a fuel preserve I think helps if it has been setting very long.

BG


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

It does I have a generator at work that will not start below 40 deg F unless you prime the daylights out of it ( 8-9 pumps) but useing a fuel preservative makes it run better and start better cold


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

After 2-3 pulls on my generator, it gets a small shot of starting fluid. Then it always start. Too old to pull my guts out.

BG


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

After this morning at work I have decided that I'll go with the Briggs, engine, my generator at work has a honda GX on it and I broke the pull cord trying to start it


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Up to you and your budget.

Don't think the average user has problems with pull starters ropes.

BG


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

Yep most people don't have problems with pull starters, the only reason I even worried about the difference between Honda and Briggs is that I've never had any luck with the el cheapo lawnmowers from wal mart, and my generator at work hates to start below 50 deg, BUT Honda has a rep with their cars as being quality, so I would assume that all their engines would have the same quality, but then we all know what assuming gets us.
Anyway, this weekend I'm going to inspect the Huskee at TSC because I just got work that a loan I applied for came through  that's gonna get m out from under the water with a little extra left over, so when I go out there I will be inspecting the welds, frame work tires, mounting hardware and hydraulics, axle mounts and basically the entire thing, an being cheaper than the NorthStar if it meets my requirements I'l be getting one of theirs, Starting is a MAJOR test too


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

You should be OK with good maintenance. Don't forget to check the valves at least once a season. The clearance needs to be checked.

Again put something in the fuel, especially if it going to set awhile. I am a big fan of Seafoam. My cheap B&S snow blower started on one pull (after using the primer & Choke) on the first pull and it sat 6 months. It is like 6.75TP (Torque Power).

BG


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

Valves, crank bearings change oil every 50 hrs the whole 9 yards, as for a fuel stabilizer I plan of doing that or running it bone dry 
I like seafoam for big engines, I never use it on small engines, and even in big engines I completely flush if I have to use it
Personally I prefer Marvel Mystery oil


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

I never put seafoam in the oil of small engines. Doing so in a engine could end up with badly clogged up oil passages even with a drain and flush. Nothing is ever added to a small engine oil. And I always use a straight 30W oil. 

Bearing should never go bad unless an out balance blade or flywheel. My 18HP Briggs still runs great, it was made in 1984.

Unless you drop the bowl on a carb, you can't run them totally dry. There is were the problem comes in. Now I do drain one small engine, power washer, as it is stored in my basement in the off season. 

BG


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

We had a Briggs engine when I was growing up that lasted forever without anything other than an oil change once a year and the occasional tune up, Now they are all made with electronic ign so a tune up is no longer required, and I have found that with big engines, if the oil is changed regularly in small engines there is rarely a problem, but I will go to TSC tomorrow and totally inspect their wood spliter, we didn't go today cause Direct TV came out and hooked up the tv's to their sat dish cause basically weer sick of only 4 channels of nothing in an area where there should be 15 available


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Since you don't probably get much snow, a disk should work 

BG


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

You can say goodbye to some channels if the dish ices up......had that happen more than once. Either thaw it out manuallly or wait for the sun to do it. Works good for tracking storms.......when the picture gets pixelated you got some heavy rain headed your way (and it's getting real close).

I don't burn enough wood to warrant a log splitter.......I just cut up small trees or follow the tree trimming companies when they are in the area. There's lotsa logs sitting along the roads right now.....the power companies pay to have the trees removed.......so the trees don't remove the power lines when they fall from ice bringing them down in the winter.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Your engine I would guess should last 200 maybe 300 hours. Guessing the cylinder/rings will cause it to go. They can be honed/bored out.

I used 1 maybe 2 cords a year and had a 10 Ton electric splitter, worked great.

Make sure the disks is not to hard to get too. They don't like snow.

BG


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

We get some snow here but not like Michigan gets, but teh dish is at my level on the ground so ice and snow won;t be a problem to remove.

As for the splitter, I hope I can make the engine last longer than 300 hours, I did some checking and I think I'll start saving a little cash to get another engine just in case, plus as we all know, if I have the money for another engine, I'll never need one  Just like if I purchase a extended warranty, the splitter will last until the warranty expires.


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

That's a thought.......how well did the electric splitter hold up, BG??

What size logs do you plan on splitting, Wolfen?? You may be going overboard with what you actually need.......kinda like if I were to use a backhoe to plant tomatoes. 

No gas/oil......don't have to worry about storage preparation. If I were in the market for a log splitter I'd consider electric. Maybe BG can provide some input on how well his electric splitter performed.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

The McCulloch 10ton (Woodmate) electric splitter last for several year doing 1-2 cords a year. It worked when I got rid of it when I moved. My stove,
a Efel Kamina would not take big wood.

If I ever needed a splitter for the home it would be another electric. Easier to use.

BG


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

SABL said:


> That's a thought.......how well did the electric splitter hold up, BG??
> 
> What size logs do you plan on splitting, Wolfen?? You may be going overboard with what you actually need.......kinda like if I were to use a backhoe to plant tomatoes.
> 
> No gas/oil......don't have to worry about storage preparation. If I were in the market for a log splitter I'd consider electric. Maybe BG can provide some input on how well his electric splitter performed.


I'll be splitting wood that's anywhere from 16" in diameter to 36" or more
Anything under 10" I'll us the hand pump one Oi got from Harbor Freight


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

Ok sorry I didnt; post a picture sooner, and if I already did I'm sorry but here it is, its had its five hour oil change and hyd fluid topped off, everything tightened after use and has split two ricks so far with no problems

http://imageshack.com/a/img823/8730/480b.jpg


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

What weight oil did you use ?

BG


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

10W30 as per the instruction manual
According to the specs for the 6.75, the next oil change is due no later that 50 hours or once a year, I think THAT will be modified a little to every three months.
the drain pluG might be a bit inconvenient to get to, but that is STILL a lot better and cheaper than and engine replacement


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Don't scratch the paint......:laugh:

Looks like you have a pretty good stockpile of wood......:thumb:. All I have is a '0 clearance' insert......good for looks and that's about it. We light it at Christmas.......all we need to do is buy a few bundles of wood at the store.


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

Thanks SABL that stack of split started at 4 chords ALL split with a 8 lb maul, took all last winter up till last month to get it all split cause its mixed Gum, red Oak, Whits Oak Holey and Locust.
I used to think when I was a kid that Black Gum and Iron wood was hard to split, Locust when its green or seasoned is damn near impossible by hand, every bit of locust got split with a chain saw LOL


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

I would consider a straight 30W, it is all I ever use.

BG


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

I calls for that under certain conditions, but as long as its under the warranty I must follow only the manual


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Yes read the manual, but I would not use 10w30 in warmer weather. Remember small engines run hotter than water cooled engines

BG


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

True I gotta look again but I think it does call for 30 weight straight above 40 deg F, which means that I'll be changing the oil again in March LOL


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

I use 30 weight year round in everything.

BG


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

I might do that after the warranty runs out.
I contacted Briggs and they said to follow the instruction manual while its under warranty, after that I can use whatever I want, but while its under warranty I need to use the recommended oil or it will void the warranty
I';m looking at the scale right now and it says teh following

SAE 30 45 deg F and up
10W30 from apx -5 to about 102 deg F
Synthetic 5W30 from below-22 to above 104 deg F 
5W30 from 45 to below -22 degF

After reading that I am seriously considering Synthetic %w30 just to cover every possible temp range


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Synthetic 5W30 from below-22 to above 104 deg F 

Would be my choice.


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

Yea that's what I'm thinking too, it may cost more in the beginning to buy it, BUT in the long run it will save me money due to not having to swap oils from spring to summer, fall, and winter


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

I trust Synthetic oil about as far as I can throw it.

BG


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

Really? Why?


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Thickness 

BG


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

Really? I thought synthetic was supposed to the exactly the same as Petroleum based only better


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

It is, syn opened my eyes when the gear train manufacturers doubled the warranty on the trans and Diff's from 500,000 to 1 million. I've got them with 1.5 mil and no non operator related(broken pinion, broken axle etc) failures, we also use syn 0000 grease in wheel ends it dropped bearing/seal failures by 75%. We have been using syn motor oil as part of the "Green Strategy" for the last 5yrs it improved fuel mileage a tad but allows for increased oil change intervals we've bumped it from 25,000 to 45,000 miles with no ill effects planned engine swings still happen between 950,000 and 1,000,000 in fact we currently testing pushing the engine swing up to 1,150,000.

Syn oil can be thinner but that's ok it allows it t disperse throughout the engine faster on cold starts and actually gives better cold protection, any more it's all about the additive package, good spec gives you good performance.


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

I gotta remember that too, with all my years of experience with engines I have a very limited knowledge of oils and the difference between synthetic and natural


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Use what ever the owners manual calls for. I always use a straight 30W year around.
Got to remember you have a cheaper 1 cylinder engine, they run hot. They will not last thousands of hours, but just a few hundred. I doubt if it has a steel liner.

I guessing wrench's place is doing engine oil analysis on their engines.

There is always a big discussion what is the best oil and why

BG


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

yep and THAT is another reason I opted for the vertical shaft engine, ever price a cheap horizontal shaft engine? they are more than than the mid range vertical shaft engines, but that is also why I bought the three year extended engine warranty  Briggs warrants it for three years, plus the three I paid for means it will last at least 6 years before I have to pay for a new engine 
the Hydraulics is only one year, but that's the easy part to fix


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

You shouldn't have any problems then.

One problem that you have getting a replacement engine, is the crank shaft.
Many things don't use a straight crank, on the out put side.

BG


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

Basementgeek said:


> You shouldn't have any problems then.
> 
> One problem that you have getting a replacement engine, is the crank shaft.
> Many things don't use a straight crank, on the out put side.
> ...


Yea I know, gotta be careful if I ever get a replacement engine, lucky enough the engine on this thing is nothing more than a standard 6.75 Briggs lawnmower engine with an adapter from from the shaft to the pump instead of the blade adapter 
The only reason I bought the 3 year warranty is the money issue, there isn't a single piece on the splitter I can't fix in my back yard


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