# Error Status 0xc0000020, at wit's end here.



## mellow3

So, I've dealt with many problems with windows 10, from the unfixable low sound, the the stability issues, but, this is not only, by far the most downright frustrating problem I've ever had on Windows 10, but possibly in my time ever using a PC, basically, ever since a few updates ago, I get this error 0xc0000020, and what it does is flat out makes my startup bar, cortana, and about 70%+ of my applications not work or be able to be installed, I was hoping some new updates woud fix it, but they have actually made it WORSE. even more programs no longer work and just give me this error, and what is just flat out making me want to lose it is that none of the suggested fixes do anything, and it's even spreading to other things like web functionality like stream and video sites not working, aswell as making simple tasks like restarting take several, painfully long attempts. I've had it with this, and need it fixed ASAP.

List of things that have flat out not worked in the slightest.

sfc /scannow - completely ineffective, always freezes at 14-16% with the message that "It cannot perform the requested task" (paraphrasing, can get the exact quote if need be.)

Virus, Malware and Rootkit scans - reveal nothing wrong.

trying to reinstall the apps affected - doesn't allow it, simply gives the error.

Resetting my PC - fails, reverts any changes made and simply restarts.

trying to check disk integrity at startup - fails, freezes around 41% or simply skips to 100% without actually completing.

And quite a few others I can't even remember. (I'll let you know if I have.)

The only clue I have is on restart, it says a certain .dll is missing but I didn't catch the name, and I didn't want to sped 2+ hours restarting just to get it, but I'll do that if I really need to.

My PC is barely even functional at this point, and I seriously can't believe Windows 10 is this unstable (it all started directly after a particular update a couple months ago, I managed to at least make it managable with workarounds, now it's just out of control after another destroyed that.)

Please, PLEASE help me here, what am I missing, what can I possibly do when all the supposed fixes are blocked from even working?

Thanks.


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## _nobody_

Hello Mellow,

What is your system U R running WIN 10 64 PRO at? CPU, mobo make, BIOS make, BIOS version, DDRs, how many, density/size of each stick, etc. :whistling:

_nobody_


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## jenae

Hi, open an elevated cmd prompt , search type;- cmd right click on the returned command prompt .exe and select "run as administrator" at the prompt copy paste:-

DISM.exe /Online /Cleanup-image /Restorehealth (press enter) takes awhile to run when finished restart computer.

EDIT:- sorry nobody we cross posted, the dism cmd will do no harm.


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## _nobody_

jenae said:


> EDIT:- sorry nobody we cross posted, the dism cmd will do no harm.


All Cool, jenae... :thumb:

I am myself very average WIN x user, and I need some help in that area (I am very much Linux personality, and well doing on that side of IT Universe). Good that we have you here, since I might need some help from you (WIN stuff) in The Future. :beerchug:

_nobody_


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## mellow3

jenae said:


> Hi, open an elevated cmd prompt , search type;- cmd right click on the returned command prompt .exe and select "run as administrator" at the prompt copy paste:-
> 
> DISM.exe /Online /Cleanup-image /Restorehealth (press enter) takes awhile to run when finished restart computer.
> 
> EDIT:- sorry nobody we cross posted, the dism cmd will do no harm.


 100%

Error: 1392

The file or directory is corrupted and unreadable.

The DISM log file can be found at C:\WINDOWS\Logs\DISM\dism.log


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## OldGrayGary

Hi all

It's late here ... so I figured I'd help pitch in while folks are sleeping ... 

I'm not sure if the corruption mentioned in the error message refers to the Windows source files or to your current installation (jenae might know & enlighten us a bit later on...)

But, to try for a possible workaround: try the DISM command again, only this time first create a bootable Windows 10 DVD, & run a version of that command that points to the Windows 10 installation files on the DVD ... here's how:

*Create a Windows 10 Installation DVD*

1) Using a working, known-clean computer: go to the Microsoft "Get Windows 10" site https://www.microsoft.com/en-au/software-download/windows10
2) Scroll down to the section "*Need to create a USB, DVD, or ISO?*"
3) Click on the blue option button "*Download tool now*"
Once the download is complete, double-click *MediaCreationTool.exe*
4) "Getting things ready" will appear for a bit.
5) Agree to the License Terms by clicking on *Accept*
6) Again, "Getting a few things ready" will appear.
7) On the following screen, select "*Create installation media for another PC*".
8) And click *Next*.
9) Select your preferences: *language, Windows 10 version, bit-depth* (the defaults are English, Windows 10, 64-bit)
10) Select* ISO* file.

If the iso is created on a computer already running Windows 10, simply put a blank DVD in the optical drive, right-click the .iso file you created & select "burn disk image". Otherwise use a DVD burning capable program (Roxio, Nero, Sonic, CyberLink, etc.) to create the bootable DVD -- look for a "burn image" option. You must use that special command, because simply copying the file to a DVD doesn't make the DVD bootable, it must be written as a system image (otherwise it ends up as a normal storage DVD that happens to have an .iso file on it).

*Running DISM using a Windows 10 DVD*
1) Make sure you are *disconnected from the Internet*. No Ethernet cable. Turn off the wireless.
2) Place the *Windows 10 DVD* in the DVD drive - cancel or exit out of any resulting screens.
3) Note the *drive letter* assigned to your *DVD drive* (you'll see this in File Explorer)
4) *Right-click* the *Windows Start Menu icon*
5) From the menu, select *Command Prompt (Admin)*
6) To the question "Do you want to allow this app to make changes to your computer?", select *Yes*
7) Type in the following command, replacing the "D" in the Source:wim: with the drive-letter assigned to your DVD-drive (if it's different)
*Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth /Source:wim:\sources\install.wim:1 /limitaccess*
(if your DVD drive happens to be assigned the drive-letter D, you can copy and paste that line into your command prompt)

It can take quite a while - varies a bit from machine to machine.
_____________________________

*Diagnostics & Hardware*
Just to ensure that you aren't wasting time looking for software fixes for hardware problems, I'd recommend a round or two of diagnostics. Test the memory for as many passes as you can stand with MemTest 86+, and test the hard drive(s) with the diagnostics provided by the hard drive manufacturers. If you're lucky, these tools might already be on a free bootable Linux CD that is designed for diagnostics and system work, the "Ultimate Boot CD" ... I use it all the time - some of its tools are aging: but most are up to date enough for your needs
Ultimate Boot CD - Overview

Make sure when running the hard drive(s) diagnostics - to run the most thorough tests possible (usually called "Extended Test" or "Long Test" ... or similar). 

If these all pass diagnostics, also check in your motherboard's Bios, and if it has an error log, report any errors shown there. If the motherboard's manufacturer has a recent Bios update to help the system get along with Windows 10 better, by all means install it.

While in the Bios screens, have a quick look at the resting temps: if they look high at all for a system basically doing nothing, and it's been a while since you've blown out some dust: do a bit of fan & vent cleaning with some compressed air. If the fans on any gaming video cards might need a bit of fresh air, let 'em have it.

To double-check the hardware angle: run your system from a Linux Live DVD for a few days. If you experience no lockups, display issues, response issues, sound issues, etc. .... then your hardware is likely in reasonably OK shape (assuming the memory, hard drives, & temperatures all passed their tests).
_______________

_nobody_ will likely check back in soon with good hardware info - he's a whiz with specifications

and I'm hoping jenae knows that DISM error better than I do.

Good luck! (my turn to sleep)


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## mellow3

_nobody_ said:


> Hello Mellow,
> 
> What is your system U R running WIN 10 64 PRO at? CPU, mobo make, BIOS make, BIOS version, DDRs, how many, density/size of each stick, etc. :whistling:
> 
> _nobody_


Sorry, I figured I'd get back to this thread to report progress, anyway.

Intel 3970x black edition 
ASUS (Model P9X79 Deluxe)
x1 1TB HDD (Western Digital brand)
x8 Kingston 8GB DDR3 1600 rated Sticks of RAM.
NVIDIA/EVGA overclocked edition Geforce GTX 980 (you didn't ask, but I thought I'd be thorough.)

I've honestly never flash updated my BIOS, after being instructed to never do it unless you are 110% certain you absolutely need to because you can fry your motherboard if done wrong, not sure how true that is.



OldGrayGary said:


> Hi all
> 
> It's late here ... so I figured I'd help pitch in while folks are sleeping ...
> 
> I'm not sure if the corruption mentioned in the error message refers to the Windows source files or to your current installation (jenae might know & enlighten us a bit later on...)
> 
> But, to try for a possible workaround: try the DISM command again, only this time first create a bootable Windows 10 DVD, & run a version of that command that points to the Windows 10 installation files on the DVD ... here's how:
> 
> *Create a Windows 10 Installation DVD*
> 
> 1) Using a working, known-clean computer: go to the Microsoft "Get Windows 10" site https://www.microsoft.com/en-au/software-download/windows10
> 2) Scroll down to the section "*Need to create a USB, DVD, or ISO?*"
> 3) Click on the blue option button "*Download tool now*"
> Once the download is complete, double-click *MediaCreationTool.exe*
> 4) "Getting things ready" will appear for a bit.
> 5) Agree to the License Terms by clicking on *Accept*
> 6) Again, "Getting a few things ready" will appear.
> 7) On the following screen, select "*Create installation media for another PC*".
> 8) And click *Next*.
> 9) Select your preferences: *language, Windows 10 version, bit-depth* (the defaults are English, Windows 10, 64-bit)
> 10) Select* ISO* file.
> 
> If the iso is created on a computer already running Windows 10, simply put a blank DVD in the optical drive, right-click the .iso file you created & select "burn disk image". Otherwise use a DVD burning capable program (Roxio, Nero, Sonic, CyberLink, etc.) to create the bootable DVD -- look for a "burn image" option. You must use that special command, because simply copying the file to a DVD doesn't make the DVD bootable, it must be written as a system image (otherwise it ends up as a normal storage DVD that happens to have an .iso file on it).
> 
> *Running DISM using a Windows 10 DVD*
> 1) Make sure you are *disconnected from the Internet*. No Ethernet cable. Turn off the wireless.
> 2) Place the *Windows 10 DVD* in the DVD drive - cancel or exit out of any resulting screens.
> 3) Note the *drive letter* assigned to your *DVD drive* (you'll see this in File Explorer)
> 4) *Right-click* the *Windows Start Menu icon*
> 5) From the menu, select *Command Prompt (Admin)*
> 6) To the question "Do you want to allow this app to make changes to your computer?", select *Yes*
> 7) Type in the following command, replacing the "D" in the Source:wim: with the drive-letter assigned to your DVD-drive (if it's different)
> *Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth /Source:wim:\sources\install.wim:1 /limitaccess*
> (if your DVD drive happens to be assigned the drive-letter D, you can copy and paste that line into your command prompt)
> 
> It can take quite a while - varies a bit from machine to machine.
> _____________________________
> 
> *Diagnostics & Hardware*
> Just to ensure that you aren't wasting time looking for software fixes for hardware problems, I'd recommend a round or two of diagnostics. Test the memory for as many passes as you can stand with MemTest 86+, and test the hard drive(s) with the diagnostics provided by the hard drive manufacturers. If you're lucky, these tools might already be on a free bootable Linux CD that is designed for diagnostics and system work, the "Ultimate Boot CD" ... I use it all the time - some of its tools are aging: but most are up to date enough for your needs
> Ultimate Boot CD - Overview
> 
> Make sure when running the hard drive(s) diagnostics - to run the most thorough tests possible (usually called "Extended Test" or "Long Test" ... or similar).
> 
> If these all pass diagnostics, also check in your motherboard's Bios, and if it has an error log, report any errors shown there. If the motherboard's manufacturer has a recent Bios update to help the system get along with Windows 10 better, by all means install it.
> 
> While in the Bios screens, have a quick look at the resting temps: if they look high at all for a system basically doing nothing, and it's been a while since you've blown out some dust: do a bit of fan & vent cleaning with some compressed air. If the fans on any gaming video cards might need a bit of fresh air, let 'em have it.
> 
> To double-check the hardware angle: run your system from a Linux Live DVD for a few days. If you experience no lockups, display issues, response issues, sound issues, etc. .... then your hardware is likely in reasonably OK shape (assuming the memory, hard drives, & temperatures all passed their tests).
> _______________
> 
> _nobody_ will likely check back in soon with good hardware info - he's a whiz with specifications
> 
> and I'm hoping jenae knows that DISM error better than I do.
> 
> Good luck! (my turn to sleep)


Sigh, even Ultimate Boot CD is locked out and won't run because of this error, so can't give a report on that. this is incredibly frustrating.

I can try the Windows 10 download with DISM later, I just need to think of who's computer I can use for a short time to do so, I don't think mine is currently up for the task.


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## OldGrayGary

Hi again 

To boot from the UBCD (or any CD or DVD, actually) you might have to alter the boot sequence -

Two ways:
1) some computers have a function key you can press that will bring up a Boot Menu, from which you can choose your boot source (HD, DVD, USB, etc.)
2) if such a menu isn't available on yours, enter BIOS SETUP (on your Asus I believe you'll need to start tapping the DEL key as the system is powered on) -- and go the the Boot options ... set the CD/DVD drive as the first boot drive.

By the way, if your machine is self-built, when you bought your hard drive, it might have come with a bootable diagnostic CD (Western Digital calls it "Data LifeGuard") - you can use that to test the hard drive.

If your system passes all the diagnostics (at least for hard drive and memory) - you can move on the all the other suggestions from our tech team. Since your board is from around 2011, I imagine there should be a BIOS update that might help it get along better with Windows 10. And a clean Windows 10 install might have a better chance at succeeding than otherwise. You could, for example, try a test clean install on a new hard drive - and if everything works well, import your personal data & programs from the old. [Or make a backup of everything, and try the clean install on your current hard drive]. 

If your system was working fine under Windows 7 - that can be among your options for resolving your current issues.

If I had to guess from the stubborn persistence of your error messages, that your system files are a mess - the question to solve is why: hardware or software.


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## jenae

Hi, yes 1392 is often associated with HDD issues, OR the image created is corrupt, ( in which case do it again and reinstall). I would, as suggested, run the manufacturers diagnostics on the hdd, I would also open a cmd as admin and run a chkdsk/r on the drive.


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## _nobody_

mellow3 said:


> Intel 3970x black edition
> ASUS (Model P9X79 Deluxe)
> x1 1TB HDD (Western Digital brand)
> x8 Kingston 8GB DDR3 1600 rated Sticks of RAM.
> NVIDIA/EVGA overclocked edition Geforce GTX 980 (you didn't ask, but I thought I'd be thorough.)


Hello Mellow,

From ark.intel.com (much more famous publicly known bro' of internal INTEL mark tool :grin, I see that you are running IVB server (your configuration is damn expensive, if you see what is the proposed price of CPU itself *($1000 USD)*).

Intel® Coreâ„¢ i7-3970X Processor Extreme Edition (15M Cache, up to 4.00 GHz) Specifications

The another hint is that, since IVB is within 3 year reach of WIN10 launch, it should be/MUST be supported by WIN10's set of drivers.

What I found by googling Error 1392 is the following: DISM Error 1392 - Microsoft Community

So, most probable, your HDD is toasted (as already suggested by others). Here, let us raise this issue to bit higher levels. *Why your HDD (what is the cause) is toasted?* Do you have there appropriate/high quality PSU? :whistling:

_nobody_


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## mellow3

Running Data Lifeguard now, will let you know what appears when it finishes.




_nobody_ said:


> Hello Mellow,
> 
> From ark.intel.com (much more famous publicly known bro' of internal INTEL mark tool :grin, I see that you are running IVB server (your configuration is damn expensive, if you see what is the proposed price of CPU itself *($1000 USD)*).
> 
> Intel® Coreâ„¢ i7-3970X Processor Extreme Edition (15M Cache, up to 4.00 GHz) Specifications
> 
> The another hint is that, since IVB is within 3 year reach of WIN10 launch, it should be/MUST be supported by WIN10's set of drivers.
> 
> What I found by googling Error 1392 is the following: DISM Error 1392 - Microsoft Community
> 
> So, most probable, your HDD is toasted (as already suggested by others). Here, let us raise this issue to bit higher levels. *Why your HDD (what is the cause) is toasted?* Do you have there appropriate/high quality PSU? :whistling:
> 
> _nobody_


Funny thing is, due to PSU's being a usual failure point for me, I never cheap out on them.

I currently run an 80+ Platinum rated Corsair AX1200i model, the reason for the high wattage is that I was originally going to do an SLI setup, but I've held off for now.


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## mellow3

Data Lifeguard revealed bad sectors, but was unable to fix them, I fear the worst.


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## Stancestans

mellow3 said:


> Data Lifeguard revealed bad sectors, but was unable to fix them, I fear the worst.


Your hard disk is failing and should be replaced ASAP. Bad sectors are physical defects on the surface of the disk platter that cannot be repaired and spread to the good parts of the disk with continued use. You run the risk of losing crucial, irreplaceable data if you continue using that disk, not to mention system corruption among other problems. In short, a disk on the verge of failure is unreliable and should be replaced at the earliest opportunity. I recommend buying a new disk and installing Windows afresh.


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## _nobody_

mellow3 said:


> Running Data Lifeguard now, will let you know what appears when it finishes.


HDD is toasted, definitely. Please, immediately stop using this HDD (to spare/save all data on it). :facepalm:



mellow3 said:


> I currently run an *80+ Platinum rated Corsair AX1200i model*, the reason for the high wattage is that I was originally going to do an SLI setup, but I've held off for now.


All Cool. Overkill, let it be. :whistling:

Your HDD simply died (it happens, quite often), Please, read my comment here: http://www.techsupportforum.com/for...uninstalling-firefox-1095586.html#post6908274



Stancestans said:


> *Your hard disk is failing and should be replaced ASAP. Bad sectors are physical defects on the surface of the disk platter that cannot be repaired and spread to the good parts of the disk with continued use.*


As Stan pointed... Please, immediately buy new HDD and install OS on it, then attach your dying HDD as secondary SATA, and save all data on new one ASAP! :thumb:

_nobody_


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## OldGrayGary

Your Windows 7 / Windows 10 license should be just fine, even if the hard drive has failed. You can reinstall either one - your choice - using the product key for Windows 7 (for Windows 10 to be free, you'd need to install by July 29, 2016).

The specs in your system are first-class - and the hard drive might still be under warranty. Even if out-of-warranty, brand-new terabyte drives have dropped in price to the $50 range ... and, if you want to spoil yourself & complement the other speedy system components ... $130 can bring a 500 GB SSD (on sale, anyway). In Southern California, the 240 GB SSDs are dropping down to the $60-$80 range.


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## mellow3

Ok, so I followed your guys advice and decided to get a new HDD, however I also got an SSD to put my high load time apps on like games and programming tools on and the like.

I've never actually done an HDD/SSD configuration, and I'm kind of deathly afraid of wiping all my files with a double load of windows, so, basically, I want windows and my games and design applications on my SSD, and everything else on the new HDD, can someone walk me through this as though I'm a little kid who has never seen a computer in my life?

Also, I fear my motherboard may also be damaged for reasons I can state later, but's focus on this for now.


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## Stancestans

mellow3 said:


> I've never actually done an HDD/SSD configuration, and I'm kind of deathly afraid of wiping all my files with a double load of windows, so, basically, I want windows and my games and design applications on my SSD, and everything else on the new HDD, can someone walk me through this as though I'm a little kid who has never seen a computer in my life?
> 
> Also, I fear my motherboard may also be damaged for reasons I can state later, but's focus on this for now.


To avoid mishaps, detach the old (failing) drive containing your data (or remove it completely from the hdd bay). Of course the PC should be OFF and unplugged from the mains power before opening the case and changing components. For extra safety, ground yourself by touching or keeping skin contact with a conductive surface (eg unpainted metallic surface) before/while working inside the case to protect components from electrostatic discharge damages.

Install the SSD ONLY and connect it to the first SATA port (6GB/S port if available on your motherboard). Remember to also connect a sata power plug from the power supply to the SSD. The first port is probably labelled SATA0. Refer to the board's manual to correctly identify the ports on it. You can optionally reset CMOS (BIOS or firmware settings) by removing the coin-cell battery for at least five seconds. Reinsert the battery and close the case. Plug in mains power and turn on your PC. You should get a POST screen message informing you about the newly installed SSD drive (hardware changes) and also about system date and time not being set etc. Enter BIOS setup and confirm that the SSD is detected (often under system information section of the bios setup screen). Check SATA controller settings and confirm it's set to AHCI (should be by default) and its operational speed set to 6GB/S. Set the date and time as well then save settings and exit bios setup. If the sata speed setting is not available, just proceed and ignore that part.

Boot from your Windows 10 (recommended) or Windows seven disc or usb and proceed with Windows setup. If you've never installed Windows, search online for guides with illustrations. It's easy really, a wizard will guide you through the steps. If you get stuck, kindly report back here and we'll guide you with whatever stage you're stuck in.


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## OldGrayGary

Hi mellow3

I think you'll enjoy the performance of your new SSD (and your new HDD as well). Not much configuration to worry about, really. In your BIOS, set both to AHCI. Put the SSD in the first SATA connector (or if you've an M2 drive, put it there), and the HDD in the second SATA connector.

Since you were experiencing so many issues with the system, if you don't have that many programs installed - you might consider a fresh, clean install of Windows 10 (or Windows 7 - your choice). You'd enter your Windows 7 product key while installing either one. If you choose Windows 10, I'd recommend downloading the latest build with the Media Creation Tool, creating a bootable Windows 10 DVD from the .iso, and using that to install. It's nice to have the DVD around if ever needed for a future repair.

How large an SSD is your new drive? If it's 60GB or smaller, you'll probably only have Windows, and possibly a favorite game or two, on it. For your other programs, you can simply install them on the new HDD (you have a choice when installing a program, as to its "location" - you'd point it to the HDD (most installers automatically will show you a list of locations, one for each possible drive on your system: you just choose which one you want).

If your new SSD is 240 GB or greater, no problem installing games onto it. You can move the storage locations for any large video/music/pictures collections over to the HDD. You can even have most of the games store their "saved games" on the HDD - but keep your most-used games' saved-games on the SSD for faster loading.
_______________

If you think your motherboard is in trouble, you might still be under warranty. I think that model arrived in December of 2011, and was getting into most electronic stores in January of 2012. If you bought yours in 2013, for example, you might still have the full warranty in effect (most boards of your model come with at least a 3-year warranty)... and if you purchased an "extended" warranty for an extra year or two, you should still be within warranty for repair/replacement (most motherboard returns get brand-new replacements).

Let us know if you have more questions.

[late edit ... Sorry Stancestans, it looks like we were typing at the same time! ... once again, I am typing slower and slower ....  ]


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