# 2001 chevy malibu won't start



## khar68 (Nov 10, 2011)

I have a 2001 chevy malibu. The security light was on constant, not blinking. I tried the relearn procedure 10 minutes on 5 seconds off. The security light stayed on. Replaced the ignition lock cylinder. Performed the relearn procedure and the security light went out. The car still won't start. I can hear the fuel pump. I have spark. The car tries to start but acts like it isn't getting fuel. Anyone have any ideas? Could it be the body control module bad also?


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

Hi khar68 

The security system is still activated, this type of problem happens when a battery has been disconnected. There is one method that you can do in this type of situation, turn the ignition on, open your door and press the door lock once ( do not exit your car or you will lock yourself out) make certain that all doors lock when you press the switch. Next, manually pull up the rod to the drivers door lock. When the security light goes off attempt to re-start the engine. Doing this everytime is a real hassel because your car's security system malfunctions often you will have to do this procedure to disarm it.


post back your results.


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## khar68 (Nov 10, 2011)

Tried your procedure. Still won't start. I did get a series of beeps from the drivers door speaker. 1 beep followed by a pause 3 beeps followed by a pause then 4 beeps and pause then the sequence starts over. 

Thanks for the help


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

Double check the door lock switch for any binding. When the beeps sounds put your hands on the emergency flasher button do feel the vibrations coming from there ?


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## Insane Galvatro (Feb 20, 2016)

I know it's been over 4 years since this thread was made, but I just bought what I thought was a good running 2001 Malibu for my niece for only $1,200. She drove it a week and then it had the EXACT same problem as the original poster. I replaced the lock cylinder ( along with the passkey censor ) and the security light turned off. Car still won't start. I'm hoping bumping this thread will get an update. If the OP can tell me what he found to be the problem from 4 years ago, it'll save me a bunch of headache now.


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## Insane Galvatro (Feb 20, 2016)

Given the date of this thread, and the number of posts by the OP, it looks like he isn't checking this site anymore. My only hope to get an answer is to send him a private message and hope he has email notifications for new messages. I tried, but it says I need at least 3 posts before I can send him a message. So mods, that is the purpose of this and the next post. I'm getting to three so I can send him a message.


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## Insane Galvatro (Feb 20, 2016)

You know, just in case he doesn't have email notifications. Could one of the mods ( since you guys have access to his email ) send him an email on my behalf? Just maybe asking him to come to the site and check up on this thread? I'm desparate here. I feel bad since my niece asked me to find her a good car and it only lasted a week. She doesn't have a lot of money for repairs, so not chasing ghosts will help a bunch. And since she bought this, she has no money for something else.


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## koala (Mar 27, 2005)

Hi Insane Galvatro, welcome to TSF

khar68 has not been back since his last post in 2011, so he's unlikely to reply to your PM, and octaneman has not been active on the forums since March last year.

Subscribe to this thread and you'll get an email notification if anyone replies with suggestions. Good luck. :smile:


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

how did I miss this post way back then?
An 01 Malibu............no start..............dunno about an 01 but when my wife had the 05 it did something similar and I fixed it by replacing the drivers heated seat switch, I know the two problems aren't supposed to be related, but on modern Chevy it seems like every single wire is somehow connected to every other wire


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

After searching for answers on the internet, it seems that this as an all too common problem......:sigh:. TG I don't have anything with anti-theft.

Have you followed all the steps with the "re-learn" process?? I'm seeing 10 minutes with the key in the ON position and then back to OFF and remove the key. Step outside the car and insert the key into the driver's door......turn key to the left then back to the right.....remove key and try to start the car again.


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

Ya, my Jeep is an 01 and it has the fuel injection thing and a digital odometer, that's all everything else is manual except the power steering and brakes which are NOT controlled, tied into or other wise monitored by ANY computer


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

Hi Insane Galvatro

Malibu's security light issue has never been been resolved and GM has no plans in rectifying it anytime soon. Replacing expensive parts like ;key fob, BCM, Ignition lock, etc.. may or may not fix the problem There are 2 core issues;

1) The BCM is not recieving the 315 MHz signal to disable the security system.

2) The security system has activated the crowbar circuit within the BCM cutting off the fuel relay preventing the fuel pump to pressurize the fuel system. 


There have been a few solutions to resolve the issue without costing an arm and a leg. 

1) Make sure your car battery is fully charged 12.65- 12.99Vdc. Security systems draw allot of current. If your battery is a few years old and its voltage is 12.2 or 11.99 you can forget it ..the security system will be on. 

2) Disconnect the negative side of the battery. Depress the gas pedal 5 times in succession, this usually re-sets codes. (Make sure you have your radio codes to reactivate it if not don't do it ) 


The there is there is the last resort . Disabling the Passlock System. This is not recommended for many reasons. I cannot tell you how do that because it violates the rules. 



:stop: WARNING : Disabling the Passlock System violates local, state and federal law. It will also negate any insurance policy you have. If you plan on doing this be fully aware whats involved. 

Good Luck.


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## Insane Galvatro (Feb 20, 2016)

SABL said:


> After searching for answers on the internet, it seems that this as an all too common problem......:sigh:. TG I don't have anything with anti-theft.
> 
> Have you followed all the steps with the "re-learn" process?? I'm seeing 10 minutes with the key in the ON position and then back to OFF and remove the key. Step outside the car and insert the key into the driver's door......turn key to the left then back to the right.....remove key and try to start the car again.


Yes, I tried all of that. The key to that working is the light flashing. In my case, it wasn't flashing. Just staying on. I had to replace the passlock censor in the ignition switch. After doing so, I had to do a relearn where I left it in the ACC position until the light quit flashing. Now I no longer have the theft system light, but it still won't start. Exactly as the original poster stated with his. Since it no longer seems to be a security issue, I can't figure out why it hasn't started letting the fuel flow again.


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

GM Has 3 types of passkey systems and each re-learn procedure is different. 

Passkey II Re-learn procedure. 

To perform a relearn on a Passkey II system, make sure there is a fully charged battery in the vehicle. The battery will be used for 30 minutes without the alternator available for charging.Connect a battery charger to the battery to ensure power is available while programming. 

1.Insert ignition key and turn to the “ON” position. Do not attempt to start the engine. Leave the key in the “ON” position for approximately 11 minutes. The security light will be steady on or flashing for the 11-minute period.

Do not proceed to Step 2 until the security light 
turns off or stops flashing.

2.Turn the ignition switch to the “OFF” position for 30 seconds.

3.Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position as in Step 1 for 11 minutes.

4.Turn the ignition switch to the “OFF” position for 30 seconds.

5.Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position as in Step 1 for 11 minutes for a third time.

6.Turn the ignition switch to the “OFF” position for 30 seconds for a third time.

7.Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position for 30 seconds.

8.Turn the ignition switch to the “OFF” position.

9.Attempt to start the engine.If the engine starts and runs, the relearn is complete.


Passlock – coded lock cylinder

The Passlock anti-theft system requires the presence of a key in the lock cylinder to enable starting. The lock cylinder contains a stationary Hall effect sensor and a rotating magnet. When the key is turned in the lock cylinder, the magnet creates a signal on the Hall effect sensor. 
The cylinder then sends a coded signal to the instrument panel cluster (IPC) or body control module BCM. If the IPC/BCM receives the expected coded signal, the IPC/BCM will send a message over serial data to inform the PCM that the vehicle may be started.To perform a relearn on a Passlock system, make sure there is a fully charged battery in the vehicle. The battery will be used for 30 minutes without the alternator available for charging. Connect a battery charger to the battery to ensure power is available while programming. 

1.Turn ignition on.

2.Attempt to start the engine, and then release the key to the “ON” position.

3.Observe the “SECURITY” indicator light. After 10 minutes the “SECURITY” indicator light 
will turn off.

4.Turn ignition to the “OFF” position, and wait 10 seconds.

5.Attempt to start the engine, and then release the key to the “ON” position.

6.Observe the “SECURITY” indicator light. After 10 minutes the “SECURITY” indicator light will turn off.

7.Turn ignition to the “OFF” position, and wait 10 seconds.

8.Attempt to start the engine, and then release the key to the “ON” position.

9.Observe the “SECURITY” indicator light. After 10 minutes the “SECURITY” indicator light will turn off.

10.Turn ignition to the “OFF” position, and wait 10 seconds.

11.Vehicle has now learned the new password. Start the engine.


Passkey III – transponder ignition key

The Passkey III anti-theft system uses a transponder inside the head of the ignition key. The exciter inside the ignition lock cylinder energizes this transponder when the ignition switch is turned on. The transponder transmits a unique signature to the theft deterrent control module. 
If the key signature transmitted is acceptable to the theft deterrent control module, the theft deterrent control module will transmit fuel enable password to the PCM. If the fuel enable password is correct, the PCM will start the vehicle.To perform a relearn on a Passkey III system, make sure there is a fully charged battery in the vehicle. The battery will be used for 30 minutes without the alternator available for charging. Connect a battery charger to the battery to ensure power is available while programming. 
When performing this relearn, all previously learned keys will be erased. Additional keys may be relearned immediately after the first key has been learned by inserting the additional key and turning the ignition switch to on within 10 seconds of removing the previously learned key.

1.Insert a master key (black head) into the ignition switch.

2.Turn key to the “ON” position without starting the engine. Security light should turn on and 
stay on.

3.Wait for 10 minutes or until the security light turns off.

4.Turn key to the “OFF” position for 5 seconds.

5.Turn key to the “ON” position without starting the engine. Security light should turn on and stay on.

6.Wait for 10 minutes or until the security light turns off.

7.Turn key to the “OFF” position for 5 seconds.

8.Turn key to the “ON” position without starting the engine. Security light should turn on and stay on.

9.Wait for 10 minutes or until the security light turns off.

10.Turn key to the “OFF” position. The key transponder information will be learned on the next start cycle.

11.Start the vehicle. If the vehicle starts and runs normally, the relearn is complete. If additional keys need to be relearned:

12.Turn the key to the “OFF” position.

13.Insert the next key to be learned. Turn the key to the “ON” position within 10 seconds of removing the previously used key.

14.Wait for security light to turn off. It should happen fairly quickly. You may not notice the lamp, as the transponder value will be learned immediately.

15.Repeat steps 12 through 14 for any additional keys.


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## Insane Galvatro (Feb 20, 2016)

I'm pretty sure it's the second one you listed, the Passlock. The reason I think this is that there is no chip in the key. It's just a plain metal key. It doesn't have the + in a circle to indicate otherwise. 

After I put in the new switch, I tried to start it and left the key in the "on" position while the light flashed. After it stopped flashing, I tried to start it. Still won't. However, the light is no longer flashing. So I can't re-try the re-learn sequence. What would cause the light to stop flashing other than it having relearned the new switch and being ready to go? Why would the fuel supply still be cut off, even though the theft system light has stopped flashing?

I had the car towed to a mechanic I thought I could trust. I told him what had been happening, what had been done up to this point, and even emailed him a link to this thread. I also told him about the common misdiagnosis of a bad fuel pump. However, after a few hours, he called to say it's a bad fuel pump which will cost $600. My niece doesn't have $600, plus, I'm not convinced that's what it is. So if I loan her the money, and he puts it in, and it still won't start, it's a waste of $600.

I'd like to go by in the morning and and make sure he checked the wires going to the fuel pump for voltage to make sure the pump is the problem. If there's no voltage on those wires, the pump could still be good. I had an idea. Do you think it's possible to bypass the theft system by bridging the fuse box? Run a wire from one of the ignition fuses to the fuse for the fuel pump? That way the voltage goes straight to the pump every time the key is on, without going through the BCM first. That way, even if the theft system tries to kill the engine, it won't be able to because there will still be power going to the fuel pump. Would that work? If so, that would also be a good way to check the fuel pump. If I put power on it, and the car starts, we'll know it's not the pump.


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

The fuel pump can't be by-passed from the BCM the fuel pump runs off the fuel pump relay. The pump cannot run continuously with ignition in the on position, it will damage the fuel regulator, and injector seals. That is why there is a three second delay which the pump pressurizes the lines and then shuts off. If you listen real carefully sitting in the driver's seat, you could hear the pump working when you turn the key in the on position. Bench testing the fuel pump is the surest way to see if it works properly, also testing the wiring harness and molex connectors with a multi-meter for any breaks and see if the proper voltage goes through. Your mechanic friend hooked up a fuel pressure tester and got little or no readings that's how he diagnosed the no start issue as a fuel pump problem. Giving your mechanic friend the benefit of the doubt, you don't need to spend $600 on a new pump. Go to your local scrap yard and you could pick one up for $150 , install it and see if it solves the problem.


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## Insane Galvatro (Feb 20, 2016)

Yeah, he said it had voltage going back to the pump, it just isn't kicking on. We'll have to pay the $600 as that includes the labor. If the pump wasn't in the tank, I could do it myself. I just don't have the equipment needed to drop a fuel tank out of a car. I don't even have a garage to work on it. It would have to be in the driveway out in the cold and rain.


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

Paying $600.00 for a lousy fuel pump is pretty steep. For that price I would demand taking the old fuel pump and run a few a tests on my own. If your mechanic tells you that he needs it for a core exchange then I'd suspect something rotten. If or when the job is done ask for the warranty on the pump and get a detailed time table. Ask specific questions if its an original or jobber after market, this is critical it will affect your warranty. Fill out any documents and send it to the manufacturer, in this way you have all your basses covered.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

$600 is on the steep side the pump lists for $335.72 from a GM dealer 2 hrs max to install.
The pumps can be had cheaper but since he has warranty it he's going to use one he is comfortable with be it a GM pump or quality after market unit.
Ask him what brand he's using.

1 thing I've seen a several times up here in the northeast is a bad ground connection to the pump it may have power to it but without a ground it still wont run.


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