# What Do You All Think of My New Setup?



## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

I just bought a whole new setup for my PC.

Right now I have:

Pentium 4 2.6 GHz

ASRock GE Pro-M2 Motherboard

Radeon 2600 Pro 512 MB AGP

Kingston 1.5 GB DDR333 PC2700 RAM


What I'm upgrading to:

Intel Core 2 Duo E7300 Wolfdale 2.66GHz LGA 775

ASUS P5Q SE PLUS LGA 775 Intel P45 ATX Intel Motherboard

Radeon HD 4670 512MB 128-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card

Kingston 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory

All for $461 (shipping and tax included).

Is all that good for the price?

And I am currently trying to run Assassin's Creed on my current setup and it's pretty laggy (on lowest settings). 

Will the new setup make Assassin's Creed and other new games run smoothly?

I'm also dying to get my hands on GTA IV for the PC! Will my new setup be able to run it properly?

Thanks.


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## bimm3rcc (Oct 20, 2008)

461 bucks for so MUCH??? where do you get your supplies man. I paid like 1,2k$ for a slighty worse pc.

Buy it.! u will be able to run all games with that.
If you want you can clock the dual core but only if you are too horny for speed. Make sure u get xp


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

I got it all from newegg.ca, but I didn't get a whole new PC; I just got these parts to replace the older parts in my current PC, so I will have to install them myself.

It's still basically a whole new PC, minus a case, hard drive, DVD drive, power supply, and sound card.

So, if I got all those parts, it would be a whole new PC.

You got your PC for $1200 because it was it was brand new and everything was installed already.

In my case I'm just replacing old parts in my PC with those new ones.


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## koala (Mar 27, 2005)

Nice build. You'll have no problems running modern games like Assassin's Creed and GTA4 on high settings.

If it's within your budget, you might want to look at the HD4870, either 512mb or 1024mb versions (the 1024mb is only needed if you play at very high resolutions, otherwise they're about the same speed). The faster DGGR5 RAM and higher number of stream processors means it will perform better and be more future-proof than any other currently available card.

There are several models of the P5Q motherboard. Some cheaper ones have less features but are just as fast as the more feature-laden expensive models. You might be able to save some money without losing performance if you shop around and compare models.

What PSU will you be using?


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

koala said:


> Nice build. You'll have no problems running modern games like Assassin's Creed and GTA4 on high settings.
> 
> If it's within your budget, you might want to look at the HD4870, either 512mb or 1024mb versions (the 1024mb is only needed if you play at very high resolutions, otherwise they're about the same speed). The faster DGGR5 RAM and higher number of stream processors means it will perform better and be more future-proof than any other currently available card.
> 
> ...


I don't know the manufacturer of my current PSU, but here's a picture of the rating sticker:

http://pic.phyrefile.com/a/an/anonymous/2008/11/08/IMG_0535.jpg

(removed embedded picture because it was too big)

I had it for 2 years and I didn't have any problems with it. Will it power my setup OK (it has a pretty high wattage rating)?

It's fan is pretty loud though, so if you say it isn't good enough, it'll just be an excuse to get a quieter one. :smile:

Edit: Sorry about the picture size, I though all forums re-size them automatically.

Also, the PSU might be from NorthQ (looked up the model number and one from NorthQ came up with the same model #, but it isn't the same.)


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## koala (Mar 27, 2005)

PCIE graphics cards need a minimum of 26A/+12V. Your PSU has 27A, but the power output from all PSUs decreases over time, so I would go for a new one.

*Seasonic 650W* (58A/+12V over 4 lines) - $120
*Corsair 650W* (52A/+12V) - $90 (after $20 rebate)
*OCZ StealthXStream 700W* (58A/+12V over 4 lines) - $70 (after $25 rebate, includes free laser gaming mouse)


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

I'm from Canada so I'm using newegg.ca.

Anyway, 

Since I need a bit more power, I found these:

Thermaltake Purepower W0100RU 500W ATX 12V 2.0 Power Supply - $71

Rosewill RP550V2-D-SL 550W ATX12V v2.01 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready Power Supply - $71


Antec EA650 650W ATX12V Ver.2.2 / EPS12V version 2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply - $83

Broadway Com Corp P4-OKIA600-BLACK 600W ATX Power Supply - $36

 hec ACE-580UB 580W ATX12V SLI Certified CrossFire Ready Power Supply - $71 

Can you please look at all of them and their specs and tell me which ones are ok? Also, I would like to know if the brands are good.

I'm looking for the best value here (I'm also pretty brand-conscious) and the Antec 650W looks like the best value because it's a good price, and I heard Antec is a good brand.

Thanks.


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## koala (Mar 27, 2005)

Of the ones you've listed, the Antec 650W is the best and will work well with your system. Don't bother with anything from Rosewill or Broadway.

From the Canadian newegg.....
*Seasonic 650W* - $122
*Corsair 650W* - $110 (after $20 rebate)
*OCZ StealthXStream 700W* - $87 (after $25 rebate)


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

Will that OCZ you posted be worth the extra money over the Antec?

Edit: I also found a 600W version of that same OCZ for only $60 (after $35 rebate). Should I get it?


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## koala (Mar 27, 2005)

There's only a $5 difference and they're both very similar with Active PFC, 20+4 connector, PCIE connectors, over 80% efficient, etc.

Antec used to be one of the top names for PSUs, but have been overtaken by Seasonic, Corsair, Thermaltake (Toughpower) and OCZ. Having said that, if you're going for the cheapest one between the Antec 650W and the OCZ 700W, the Antec will be fine for your single graphics card system with enough headroom for future upgrades.

If you plan on adding an extra graphics card (Crossfire) in the future, then it would be cost-effective to go for a more expensive Seasonic 750W or higher now rather than have to replace your choice of 650/700W to cover the extra power requirements.

EDIT: Yeah, go for the 600W OCZ. It doesn't give you as much headroom for future upgrades, but it will power your system.


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

I just found this:

*OCZ GameXStream OCZ700GXSSLI 700W ATX12V SLI Certified CrossFire Ready Active PFC Power Supply *

It's $126 before $35 rebate, so that's $91 PLUS it comes with free shipping that ends today.

Can you please look over its specs and compare them to the 600 W one?

Thanks.


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## koala (Mar 27, 2005)

As far as I can tell, the OCZ GameXStream 600W and 700W are the same except for the higher watts. Same connectors, amps, features, etc.


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

The final decision is down to these two:

OCZ StealthXStream OCZ600SXS 600W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready Active PFC Power Supply - $90 (including tax and shipping, after $35 rebate)

OCZ GameXStream OCZ700GXSSLI 700W ATX12V SLI Certified CrossFire Ready Active PFC Power Supply - $108 (including tax, free shipping that ends today, and $35 rebate) 

Can you please check the specs on both and compare them?

Is it worth the extra $18 to get the GameXStream 700W over the StealthXstreme 600W?

Thanks.


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## koala (Mar 27, 2005)

If it was my choice, I'd go for the 700W for the extra power available for any future upgrades and to offset the decrease in power output over the next couple of years.

If you want to save some money, the 600W will power your new specs listed in post #1, but may need to be upgraded if you add any more hardware (an extra graphics card, for example).

To confirm this, enter your full system specs (including case fans, USB devices, etc) into this *power calculator* and set Capacitor Aging to 25%. Click the Calculate button, then add 30% to the total to allow for PSU inefficiency.


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

Ok, I did that test for the new equipment and It got 260 W.


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

Also, what about my sound card? Will my current one fit the new motherboard?

I looked through my system specs and all I can get for identifying it is "SiS 7020 Audio Device".

Will it still be ok to for my new system?

Thanks.


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

The onboard sound on the new motherboard will, almost certainly, be fine. The last few years have seen significant improvement in onboard sound, only if you are some sort of audiophile will you be able to tell a difference. Your old sound card will go into a PCI slot if it's a separate card. There are a few PCI-E x 1 cards out now, but few and quite expensive. Try the onboard and if you aren't happy with it, get a new one, or try your old one. 
The 260 watts you're getting in a power calculator probably isn't including things like capacitor aging, effiency, and such. Should always add 40% to what a calculator gives you, and that's at a minimum. It is much better to run a psu at about 60-80 percent of it's capacity, it will run quieter, provide power that is more stable, and last longer. The 700 watt OCZ GameXStream is a decent unit, and it does give you some upgrade overhead, though not enough for a top of the line video card, it would power up to about one HD4850.


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

Oh, the new motherboard will come with it's own sound card? I didn't know that; I thought I had to use my current one.

About the PSU again: I found a new website with some cheaper prices.

I found the same OCZ 600W StealthXstreme ($67 after $20 rebate), but I also found a 600W ModXstreme ($76 after $20 rebate).

Out of all these OCZ models (Stealth, Game, and Mod), Game is the best, right (since it's more expensive)?

Well, at this website I found a 600W GameXstreme for only $71 (after $30 rebate).

Would I be an idiot not to buy the 600W GameXstreme?

Thanks.


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## wintersnow (Aug 30, 2007)

> What I'm upgrading to:
> 
> Intel Core 2 Duo E7300 Wolfdale 2.66GHz LGA 775
> 
> ...


So how much is your memory, I have got to know a good deal on the Crucial 4GB (2GBx2) PC2-6400 DDR2 Dual Channel Memory Kit for $20. That's quite nice price.


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

wintersnow said:


> So how much is your memory, I have got to know a good deal on the Crucial 4GB (2GBx2) PC2-6400 DDR2 Dual Channel Memory Kit for $20. That's quite nice price.


I got mine for the same as that ($55) but without a rebate.

Anyways, I finally bought that OCZ GameXstreme 600W for $78 (including tax, shipping, and $30 rebate).

Did I get a good deal?


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

That's a good deal on the GameXStream. Never used that particular model, but have used the 600 watt StealthXStream, nice psu and very quiet, this might be a bit noisier is all, and I doubt if too much at that. Most noise is from cheap psu's that are underpowered and at their limits, which makes them work too hard and produces more noise and heat.


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

grimx133 said:


> That's a good deal on the GameXStream. Never used that particular model, but have used the 600 watt StealthXStream, nice psu and very quiet, this might be a bit noisier is all, and I doubt if too much at that. Most noise is from cheap psu's that are underpowered and at their limits, which makes them work too hard and produces more noise and heat.


My current PSU (400W) is a no-name and the fan is quite loud, so that explains it. This new, quieter PSU will be nice! :grin:

Anyway, I can't wait for all the stuff to arrive!

I hope it won't be too hard to install.

Thanks to everyone who helped me out! :smile:


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## bimm3rcc (Oct 20, 2008)

yeah man you got a lot for the $$$


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

Ok, I got everything today (except the PSU, which I still have to wait for).

I was told that the new motherboard comes with its own sound card, right?

Here's s picture of its layout:

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/ShowIm...US P5Q SE PLUS ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail

Can someone tell me where the sound card is?


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

It's onboard, you don't put it into an expansion slot. Look at the back panel and you'll see 6 different coloured jacks. That's your sound. Have you read your manual yet? Probably a good idea, when I buy a new board, I download the .pdf manual and have it read a half dozen times before it's delivered.


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

No, I didn't have time to read the manual yet, and I didn't look for the audio jacks.

Anyway, here's a picture of my current setup (still didn't install upgrades because I'm waiting for the PSU to arrive):

http://pic.phyrefile.com/a/an/anonymous/2008/11/08/IMG_0536_000.jpg

At first, I thought that that large rectangle perpendicular to the motherboard, just below the CPU fan was the sound card, but I then realized that it's my Radeon HD2600.

The sound card is in that little pink box on the top left of the motherboard, right (IIRC the audio jacks are coming out of there)?

Damn! I can't wait for my PSU to arrive! It's coming all the way from British Columbia, Canada, and I'm in Ontario! :upset:

I wanna get these things installed already!!! :tongue:


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

You really need to read the manual, That's not a sound card you can't see a sound card because it is built into the chips on the motherboard.


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

Yah shipping takes a bit for sure. Usually about 7-10 days to get to northern ontario from ncix for me. Tried Newegg.ca the other week, ordered on a Saturday and got everything on the Thursday, I'll be using them now, methinks.


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

Yeah, my order from Newegg.ca (everything except the PSU) was ordered on Sunday and arrived Wednesday.

I ordered the PSU on Tuesday from Directcanada.com, and it'll probably take another week. :sigh:

On the plus side, it did come with the lowest price I can find, a $30 rebate, and shipping for only $1. 

Should I just put everything in and use the old PSU until the new one arrives? Is that a risk?


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

I see that your old card had a separate power connection, and the HD 4670 doesn't. Did some searching and it isn't a "power hungry beast" like it's bigger brothers are. Sounds like a nice card. It's always a chance to risk new components on an older psu of questionable lineage. Capacitor aging is a large factor in what it can handle, and there is no constant rate to this. Any psu can die at any time, same as any component. It's a game of odds, and to maximize those odds you need quality. Running the old card, I'd think that it would be fine for a short time, as long as you are aware that the risks are real. You're the only one who can make that decision, I look at things a tad differently. For me, when I fry parts, I have spares, well unless my my monitor goes, I have at least one spare of everything else. Hint - you'll notice that I didn't say "if" I fry parts eh.


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

I'm having some trouble connecting my CD/DVD drives and HDD to the motherboard. 

AFAIK, there is only one IDE slot, and I need two (one to connect the CD/DVD drives, and one for the HDD). My old motherboard had two slots.

How am I supposed to connect them if there is only one slot?

Please help me.

Thanks.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

That motherboard like most today is set up for Sata drives and only has the provision for 2 Ide drives> You can either get an adapter or a new cd/dvd drive I would probably spend another $10 on a Sata burner> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812232004


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

Here are some pics:

Here's the power cord from the PSU that connects to the DVD/CD drives and the HDD. But, where does the plug I'm holding go?

http://pic.phyrefile.com/a/an/anonymous/2008/11/19/0543.JPG]

Here's the plug that connects the motherboard to the CD/DVD drives and HDD. The connector I'm holding is supposed to plug into the motherboard, but there is only one slot and it's taken up already by the HDD connector to the motherboard

http://pic.phyrefile.com/a/an/anonymous/2008/11/19/0542.JPG


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

The connector you're holding is a floppy power connector. Modern motherboards only have the one IDE header on them, if it's already filled, then you either have to go to sata, or get a pci ide controller card, like this one. There are many to chose from. http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815124001 

For now, just hook up one hard drive and one cd/dvd drive, with the hard drive on the end of the cable and jumpered to master and the cd/dvd on the middle connector as a slave.

In a few years you'll be hardpressed to find ide on motherboards, some of the X58 boards that just came out already have no ide.


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

grimx133 said:


> The connector you're holding is a floppy power connector. Modern motherboards only have the one IDE header on them, if it's already filled, then you either have to go to sata, or get a pci ide controller card, like this one. There are many to chose from. http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815124001
> 
> For now, just hook up one hard drive and one cd/dvd drive, with the hard drive on the end of the cable and jumpered to master and the cd/dvd on the middle connector as a slave.
> 
> In a few years you'll be hardpressed to find ide on motherboards, some of the X58 boards that just came out already have no ide.


So, if I get that, and plug it into one of my PCI slots, I will be able to connect my CD/DVD drives to it?

And what if I am not going to use my floppy drive, should I just leave that power cord for it (first picture) out?

Edit: I found this at newegg. It is like the one you recommended, but it's cheaper. Should I get it? What are the differences?

Thanks.


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## Nemesis_1 (Nov 18, 2008)

I have an ATI 4670 HD 512GDDR3 and it works great ! It uses less power than other cards
and the graphics are amazing can't go wrong there, especially if your going to run CrossFire.


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

Nemesis_1 said:


> I have an ATI 4670 HD 512GDDR3 and it works great ! It uses less power than other cards
> and the graphics are amazing can't go wrong there, especially if your going to run CrossFire.


Thanks for replying, but please keep it on my current topic because I want to know if I am buying the right IDE controller card.

Thanks.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

2 drives can go one the 1 IDE controller you have put 1 hard drive and a CD/DVD drive on the ribbon cable for the second cd drive if it's a reader only you're better off buying a new Sata drive.


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

yep, the pci controller you linked to doesn't work with atapi drives, hard drives only, you should read the reviews. You're so much better off picking up a sata drive for 25 or 30 bucks.

Not sure what you mean by leaving the floppy power connector out, it's on the end of a cable that has molex's on it, if you don't have a need for those then you can stash the cable in an empty drive bay or something.


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

Okay, I got the PC started up, but without the CD/DVD drives.


I setup my BIOS, but windows won't boot up because I get this error message:



> EXPRESS GATE
> 
> ERROR CODE: 80000002
> 
> ...


Then it keeps restarting itself and getting to this message.

I think I need to set the BIOS again, how do I get to the BIOS setup?

About the PCI card: I already bought it because I wanted it to arrive ASAP. You're saying it won't work with my CD/DVD drives? Will I be able to plug in my HDD to it and then plug in the CD/DVD drives cable (they are on one combined cable) into the IDE port in the motherboard?


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

Use the delete key to get into the bios, and you can disable Express Gate there. Should be in a tools menu, change the enabled to disabled. 
You'll just have to try the pci card when you get it, I haven't used one for a long time, but I had my OS drive on it when I did. Only thing was that I had to install the OS with the drive connected to the motherboard and then put in on the controller card. Won't know until you try.


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

What's that Express Gate anyway?

Now, I tried plugging in my HDD and DVD drive, on the same wire, to the IDE port on the motherboard. I plugged them in this order:

(1)|---(2)|------(3)|

The 1st connector went into the DVD drive, 2nd in the HDD, and the 3rd into the IDE port on the motherboard.

I put the Windows XP installation disc into the DVD drive, and it was loading the installation files, then when it was about to install Windows, I got this error:



> STOP: C0000221 UNKNOWN HARD ERROR
> \SystemRoot\System32\ntdll.dll


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Blue plug goes into the mb hard drive on the other end of the cable, cd in the middle, set the jumpers on the hard drive to master and on the cd to slave.


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

Does it matter which wire I use? Does the plug have to be blue? The one currently installed has all black connectors.

And how do I set the jumpers to master and slave?


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

If you are using the old 40 wire cable you will need to use the 80 wire cable that came with the motherboard
There should be a label on the drives showing how to place the jumpers




And have a look here > http://www.mikeshardware.com/howtos/howto_connect_ide_hd.html


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

Ok, I realized that I was using a 40-wire cable and I was supposed to be using the 80-wire.

I have three grey wires that are from my old motherboard; 1 80-pin, and 2 40-pins.

The new one came with one black 80-pin cable and it's labeled "HDD Cable."

That link you posted says that I have to connect the blue connector to the motherboard, black to the master drive, and grey connector to the slave.

So is the master drive the HDD or the DVD drive?l

Also, is it only 40-pin cables that come with only black connectors, and 80-pins only come with blue, grey, and black connectors?

So basically my choice is to use the new black cable or the old grey cable (both 80-pin).

Does it make a difference which one I use? Even though the new black cable is labeled "HDD Cable"?


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

I also read somewhere else that the master drive is what the OS runs on, is this correct?

Since I need to install Windows on the new motherboard, I should make the DVD drive as my master drive (connect black connector to DVD drive), because the Windows installation CD is in it?

Then, after I install Windows to the HDD, I should make the HDD the master drive, right?

Sorry, for all the questions. This is a little confusing! :grin:


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

HDD = HarD Drive use the new cable.
The Standard is for colored connectors but as we all know not all manufactures follow the standards.

The Hard Drive is the Master set the jumpers to Master and put it on the end of the cable.


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

wrench97 said:


> HDD = HarD Drive use the new cable.
> The Standard is for colored connectors but as we all know not all manufactures follow the standards.
> 
> The Hard Drive is the Master set the jumpers to Master and put it on the end of the cable.


But, shouldn't the master be the DVD because I have to install Windows with it?

Anyway, I tried putting the master as the HDD and the slave as the DVD drive, but now, I get an "Exception" error.

What does that mean?

I also tried to set the DVD as the master and the HDD as the slave, but then it couldn't recognize the HDD.

I think I should just wait for the IDE controller card to arrive and leave it until then.

When I get it, I should connect the HDD to the motherboard with the supplied black 80-pin cable, and the DVD/CD drives to the controller card, right?

Between the CD/DVD, which one will be the master and which one will be the slave?

Thanks.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

You would be a lot better off with a $18.00 Sata CD drive then trying to use a Ide card for it. If you can't get it working off the MB don't even try to add the IDE card.

What Exception error do you get?
Hard drive has to be Master no matter what, so that leaves slave for the CD/DVD 
Make sure you have them jumpered correctly
Set the CD on the Ide controller as the first boot device in the Bios screen


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

So, I should connect the master cable to the HDD, slave to DVD, and set the DVD as the boot device?


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Yes that is how it should be.


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

I just looked at my DVD drive and HDD, and they both take 40-pin cables ly (according to drawings on their labels).

Does that mean they won't take the 80-pin cable?


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

Ok, I made sure that the HDD was see, it to master and the DVD to slave. Then I connected the 80-pin cord in the right way (blue to motherboard, black to HDD, and grey to DVD).

I then set the DVD as the primary boot device and with the CD in the DVD drive, the windows setup won't even start now.

I did get this message:


> JMicron Technology Corp. PCIE-to-SATAII/IDE RAID Controller BIOS v.1.06.70
> Copyright (C) 2005 JMichron Technology.
> 
> HDD0: WDC WD800BB-00FJA0
> ...


Then it goes to that black screen where it asks you to start select "Normally" and it reboots again.

That message does indicate that it recognizes my HDD, right?


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Disable the sata controller your not using sata.


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

THANKS! THAT DID IT! :grin:

Now, when it asks me o install Windows on my HDD, it says that Windows is already installed on it and if I try to overwrite it, there could be problems.

What should I do?


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Format and install windows


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

So, you're saying I should actually overwrite my current installation of Windows, even if it could cause problems?

Also, what to you mean by formatting Windows? I can't do it until I install it, right?

Another thing I thought of: is there a way to uninstall my current installation of Windows from my HDD, so the new installation will be a clean one?


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Formatting the drive erases all the data on the drive if you want to keep the data and you are using XP do a repair install> http://www.michaelstevenstech.com/XPrepairinstall.htm#RI

Then install the motherboard drivers that are on the disk that came with the motherboard, then the video drivers.


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

So basically, I have to repair my current installation, then the new installation will be a clean one?


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Either you repair the current one or format the disk and install Windows one or the other not both.


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

I followed the steps from that link you posted and there is no repair option in the setup.

What now?


Ok, now I'm in the Recovery Console and I'm supposed to type "bootcfg", but I can only type one letter. What could be the problem?


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Are you using an OEM windows disk?


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

If you mean the Windows disc that came with the computer, then no.

I'm using the disc that came with my laptop because it's a newer version of XP (Media).

Should I try with the disc that originally came with my PC 4 years ago?


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

No you can not use an operating system from another oem pc it's not legal and it will never pass activation OEM windows is tied to the computer it came on change the motherboard you need a new copy of windows.


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

I can't even use the OEM disc that came with this PC?

I just tried it and the repair option was available. I'm doing the installation right now.

Also, if this all works out, should I keep it this way without installing the IDE controller card? If I don't change anything, the only thing that won't work is the CD drive, but I don't think I will use it anyway because my DVD drive supports CDs also.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Legally no and it's against forum rules to support illegal activities.
Microsoft considers the motherboard to be the pc when it comes to oem copies of windows if you upgrade the motherboard you have replaced the pc that is why the oem copy is cheaper then the full version of windows same software different license.


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## Ilpav (Oct 21, 2008)

Ok, I installed XP, the drivers from the motherboard's CD, and the drivers from my VGA's CD.

After I did a Windows update and restarted the PC, I started to get this message:

http://pic.phyrefile.com/a/an/anonymous/2008/11/22/IMG_0550.jpg


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## Tumbleweed36 (May 14, 2005)

If you are using an OEM disk and have changed the basis of the computer (motherboard), this this is illegal. Therefore, we can no longer help you with this illegal activity. This thread is now closed.
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