# B&S bent push rod



## MooGroc (Jan 19, 2015)

My log splitter stopped suddenly and then was very hard to pull start - too hard to get it to start. I checked the oil and found it completely while. I assume it was water and bubbles. I changed the oil, but it was still too hard to pull the cord. I removed the valve cover and saw the exhaust valve wasn't moving at all.

I pulled out the (very lose) push rod. It was bent and snapped at about 4.5 inches. 

My questions are: can I just replace it? Do I have to find the other half of the broken push rod that must have fallen into the bottom of the engine? I'm afraid it will be a hell of a lot more work to get access to where it must be. The engine spins nicely when the spark plug is removed so maybe there isn't any other damage. The push rod is cheap so it seems I don't have much to lose by replacing the bent and snapped one.

The engine is a B&S 201432-36e2

Thanks in advance


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## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

The engine is a B&S 201432-0036-e2

You find it and also check for other damage while the crankcase is open.
The rod could have destroyed the oil dipper among other things. These engine also has decompressor on the cam that can be easily damaged. 

The white oil is also of concern. I would pull the piston rod cap and check the crankshaft journal for any aluminum deposits. Any deposits will indicated lack oiling and mean a quick failure of the rod.


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## wristpin (Oct 24, 2014)

As above, complete strip and inspect, no short cuts!


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Where did the water come from?


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## wristpin (Oct 24, 2014)

Wrench97 said:


> Where did the water come from?


My usual answer is "through that hole in the top of the fuel (gas) tank"!


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## MooGroc (Jan 19, 2015)

Wrench97 said:


> Where did the water come from?


I'm not sure. It was outside under a tarp. Either condensation or rainwater leaking in.

So, it sounds like I need to open it up and remove the broken piece of push rod and perhaps look for metal shards or other damage.

No votes for the short cut?


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

No votes for the short cut, in the long run it doesn't pay.


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## kendallt (Feb 21, 2007)

wristpin said:


> My usual answer is "through that hole in the top of the fuel (gas) tank"!


 Also through the breather or muffler depending on what valve was open. 

Stopped suddenly, with 'white' oil sounds like bearings would be worth looking at as well. 
It's normally easy enough to open them up and inspect the bottom end.


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## MooGroc (Jan 19, 2015)

Thanks everyone.

The reason I'm looking for a short cut is not because I'm lazy. It's just that
the more I dig into the engine, the more likely I'll get in over my head and
might be unable get it back together again in the proper fashion.


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## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

MooGroc said:


> Thanks everyone.
> 
> The reason I'm looking for a short cut is not because I'm lazy. It's just that
> the more I dig into the engine, the more likely I'll get in over my head and
> might be unable get it back together again in the proper fashion.


This is just one of those jobs that short cuts will end costing you in the long run. Doing right will prevent a lot damage later if it has already happen.

Download yourself a copy of the service manual and take lot pictures or notes as you go.

Here is a copy of the Briggs single OHV SM that I have on my Google Drive for anyone to obtain.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-g4TpKUJnh7WXBmMnJ2akI4S0E&authuser=0


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## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

AVB said:


> Doing right will prevent a lot damage later if it has already happen.
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-g4TpKUJnh7WXBmMnJ2akI4S0E&authuser=0


What I mean is if it hasn't already happen.


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## MooGroc (Jan 19, 2015)

So, I heeded everyone's advise and removed the side cover from the engine to
expose the crank and cam. I learned you have to REALLY sand down the exposed
crank shaft to get the cover to slide off.

The intake push rod was slightly bent but everything else looks good. The cam and
cylinder spin freely. I'm not going to remove the connecting rod. I'm just going to install
new push rods and a new cover gasket and cross my fingers that she will work.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Check that the valves move up and down freely to bend the push rods either the valves are stuck, something hard was in the cylinder that prevented them from opening or the engine was over sped and they hit the piston.


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## MooGroc (Jan 19, 2015)

The valves do seem to move freely.

Two off things. I didn't find the snapped off piece of the exhaust push rod and
I only found one tappet (intake, I think). Is it possible the engine only uses a
tappet on the intake push rod?


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

No it needs to have a tappet for both.


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## MooGroc (Jan 19, 2015)

Ok, I do have to tappets. What confused me was finding a 3rd thing that looks
like a (mostly) hollow, smaller tappet.

I'm trying to figure out where it came from....


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## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

MooGroc said:


> Ok, I do have to tappets. What confused me was finding a 3rd thing that looks
> like a (mostly) hollow, smaller tappet.
> 
> I'm trying to figure out where it came from....


Picture please of the object your asking about.


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## MooGroc (Jan 19, 2015)

So, the mystery piece that looked like a tappet was part of the mechanism that is activated by gears and affects the carb.

I ordered new push rods and a crankcase gasket, put back the little key for the crankcase gear
that turns the cam, replaced the push rods and adjusted the valves.

To my complete and utter amazement, it started on the first pull and runs perfectly.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Sounds good !

BG


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