# Wheel lug torque settings



## EddieRall

I am looking for general settings for wheel lugs/nuts and would also like to know if there are different settings for Aluminium wheels and Steel wheels. BTW I always use a bit of "Copperlube" on my wheelstuds/nuts as this avoids them sticking and breaking.


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## octaneman

Hi EddieRall


General torque settings for steel lug nuts are 100-150 lbs, aluminum lug nuts are *not* torqued by impact guns but are done by hand. The reason for this is the aluminum type break in conjunction with mag rims when using impact guns.


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## EddieRall

Hi Octaneman

Thank you very much.


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## Fred Garvin

If you post the make and model I can look up the torque settings. Lug nuts go on dry. You do not use stuff like lube or antizieze on the studs or lug nuts. 100 ft/lbs is the average for most 4 or 5 lug cars, but the proper torque should be used based on your model and tightened with a torque wrench.


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## EddieRall

Hi Fred

Thank you very much. My internet research has come up with such a wide range of settings that I think I should rather email the manufacturers and get the required specifications for each vehicle. I lost the torque values as I had to use my torque wrench to torque my motorcycle wheel. Stupid me, I did not write the old settings down before changing it.

I have had a number of studs break off after the agents serviced the vehicles and I decided to start using a very small amount of "Copperlube" on the thread of each stud. I make sure not to get any on the seat face and torque the studs by hand with a good click type torque wrench. Since using this method, I have not had any problems with sticky nuts and none of them has ever come loose either.


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## SABL

The setting on your torque wrench should not have been there in the first place and should have been noted or written down. Your user guide for your torque wrench should state that after use the setting should be returned to 0lbs or at least under 20lbs. If you have failed to do so, you can't be sure of the accuracy.......(I did notice that you use a 'click' type.....micro-torque.)

Unless instructed to do so, all fasteners are dry torqued. The use of a lubricant can cause over-torque and stress on the fastener. Broken wheel studs are often caused by lack of wheel covers..... or missing caps on lug nuts that are meant to be exposed. 

Examples:

2001-2007 Ford Escape lug nuts 98 ft-lbs
1993-2000 Chevrolet Camaro lug nuts 100 ft-lbs

1992-2001 Ford E series vans:
E150 lug nuts 100 ft-lbs (5 lug)
E250-350 lug nuts 140 ft-lbs (8 lug)

I drive the E350 series and have owned many. The torque is 140 ft-lbs for the wheel lugs and I have never broken a stud or used any lubrication on them. My son broke a few on his van because he would not use the "dog dish" wheel covers that protect the studs/nuts. If you have the cap-nuts, where the ends of the threads are not exposed, you do not need wheel covers.


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## Fred Garvin

Eddie, just post the make and model of your car. I have the same data and service information a dealer does for many cars. Or give your dealer a call.

SABL, I've got the same thing, 3/4 ton, 140 ft/lbs. Have to torque them with a breaker bar :laugh:


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## wolfen1086

I worked as a tire specialist at Tread Quarters in Va Beach for two years, and I used this as a general guide for torquing lug nuts

http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/hardware2006/191-196_Sec10_Part11.pdf

Also NEVER use ANY lubricant on the studs!!!!!!!!. of ANY KIND, it may cause the nut to loosen and back off eventually. Always turn down each lug nut by hand no air tools, the only thing that is supposed to touch your nuts is a torque wrench, now days shops use "torque sticks" on the end of a air gun, these are pretty much a good idea cause they will break before they over torque your lug nuts if used properly, Personally if you come to my house for anything, all lug nuts get loosened with a 4 way unscrewed by hand, and screwed back on by hand then properly torqued. And sine I have been doing it that way I have not had one break or come loose yet.

Oh and also steel and alu rims require the same torque. I think composite rims might be different, to be honest I have never dealt with those


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## SABL

wolfen1086 said:


> Personally if you come to my house for anything, all lug nuts get loosened with a 4 way unscrewed by hand


You must not have a decent impact wrench.......I get 'em off the ground and 'have at it' with a 1/2" Mac to get the lugs off. Installing the wheel is reversed with a cross sequence with the impact at the lowest setting.....vehicle is dropped just enough to get the tire on the ground to prevent spinning. Cross pattern is repeated with a micro-torque and one final check in a sequential pattern. 

I can use a 4-way and learned with them.......slap and spin. I have a few laying around the garage but use air and micro-torques.......there is a technique to using a 4-way.....and it takes a well trained ear and "the touch".


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## wolfen1086

Nope I refuse to have an impact on my lugs, simply because around here the idiots at most tire stores use them to put nuts on and just stand there hammering away till the gun stops. that has gotten me to the point that I do it all by hand or with a 4 way.
I've seen so many from tire stores around here that I have to take off with a 4 foot breaker bar and a pipe extension


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## EddieRall

Thank you all for your contributions. I have phoned the manufacturers and got the correct settings for each vehicle. For those that are interested.
Mitsubishi Pajero 115Nm (+-85Ft/LBS)
Mitsubishi Colt 115Nm
Volkswagen Golf 120Nm
Toyota Corolla 103Nm

Every time I had a stud break was after the service agents tightened the wheel lugs with an impact wrench and I will therefore not use one of those. Mine are all done by hand and finished off with the torque wrench.

None of my vehicles use hubcaps as they all have Alloy wheels except the Golf and that doesn't have any caps that will protect the studs. Dirt and water can and does also get in from the inside of the wheel and this, together with overtightening has caused stuck nuts in the past. 

I rotate my wheels every 10,000Kms and since using Copperlube on the stud treads, I have not had a problem again with stuck nuts and none of them has ever come loose either. I hear what everybody is saying about lube on the studs, but I will continue to use it. Incidentally, I got the tip from one of the tyre replacement shops. 

Thanks again for all the contributions.


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## wolfen1086

Read my post #8

NEVER USE LUBRICANTS ON WHEEL STUDS!!!!!!!!!!!

There's no way I can ever say that enough to people, Lubricants will allow the nuts to loosen


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