# Kellogg compressor condition



## gjewers (Sep 10, 2014)

I am looking at a 1985 or thereabouts, Kellogg 332 compressor. The current owner has seen it run in the last year but it is not hooked up to now. It was in an old auto shop and used for and a hydraulic/pneumatic car lift. It leaks some oil from one of the two lines from the top of the head to the crankcase as there is a drip cup attached. Is there any way to check this machine without actually running it?
It comes with 2 120 gallon tanks. They are asking $1,500 for it. What do you think of the price if it were to be in OK shape? I will only be using this on occasion to blow old steam whistles and not for everyday continuous service. I need the high pressure and the volume and have not found anything else currently offered that is less than "industrial". Any info would be appreciated. Thanks. greg 
Attached Images


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## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

Try replacing the teflon tape on both of those fittings then make sure all of the fittings are snug. If it still leaks, try replacing the compression fitting.

And yes, a 335 with two 120 gallon tanks -- all in good working condition -- is worth $1,500.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

I would not buy it without seeing running.

BG


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

The compressor head is worth less than $1000 brand new, does it have a electric motor on it? Is it single phase or 3 phase motor?
Are the tanks the same age as the compressor head?
Did you check the bottom of the tanks around the feet for cracks?
Drain the tanks and check for oil in the tanks that would be a sign the rings in the pump are wearing/worn out.

Lastly where you are seeing the oil is the unloader, when there is no oil pressure it relieves the head pressure so the compressor can start the lines are known to crack and are usually just compression fittings easy fix.

The 332 is good quiet compressor at 600 rpm they will put out about 20 cfm, I have one from the mid 60's that I bought in the early 80's for $250.

The 335 model lists for $2100 brand new so I would not want to pay $1500 for a unit close to 30 years old. > Kellogg: Single Stage Air Compressor Pumps | Kellogg Compressor


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## gjewers (Sep 10, 2014)

Thanks for the replies. Gives me something to work with. The tanks are from 1984 so just guessing the pump is from the same era as it looks to be original. I couldn't find a date on the compressor. It does come with the motor and it is a single phase 120/230 rated at 40 amps. I have the option of wiring up a pig tail to get it running but it's about 100 mi. from my place so not real convenient.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

What and where are your planned use for it?
For example if for a home shop the dual tanks are overkill but being single phase is good since you won't have 3 phase.

Here is a ad for another used one> Used Kellogg American Air Compressor- Sterling Machinery


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## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

1) Those are in pretty bad condition.

2) Tanks that old can have some serious rust in the bottom. For example, here's one from 1974:


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Is the time stamp correct on those pics?? That would put the tanks 3 years newer than the currently discussed unit. That tank was 27yrs old compared to 30yrs for the one under consideration for purchase.


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## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

Yes, July 18 2001 is correct. Which means the tank was 27 years old at the time it was cut open and the pictures were taken.


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## gjewers (Sep 10, 2014)

"_What and where are your planned use for it?
For example if for a home shop the dual tanks are overkill but being single phase is good since you won't have 3 phase_."

My plan for the tanks and compressor is for blowing old steam whistles so I need both the pressure and the volume. It will not be a work-a-day machine; Just occasional use.

Mighty cruddy looking tank. I guess that's what happens if they never get drained. New tanks are awfully expensive though. I am not favoring a Kellogg compressor but the combination seemed to be what I was in need of.

Also, it is close enough that I can go get it and haul it home.


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## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

What PSI and CFM do you need?



> It is more important to select an air compressor that provides enough cubic feet per minute (cfm).
> 
> “CFM is going to determine how many tools you can run, and how much power you’re going to have.”
> 
> ...


Source: Ingersoll Rand | Tool Tip: Choosing the Right Air Compressor: Consider Power and Storage Needs


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## gjewers (Sep 10, 2014)

The greater the CFM the better but not critical. The whistles are large and will empty the dual tanks in probably less than a minute if blowing them using coded whistle blasts. (Like you hear when a train passes a road at grade.) The intakes are 2" plus in some of them. 

The higher the pressure, in this case a 175 PSI rating, the better also, as these whistles, (and horns) operate at or above that range.

Not your normal air compressor usage. I have considered larger converted propane tanks also. but have been told not to trust these unless familiar with the welder.


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## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

The 332/335 series will deliver roughly 15 CFM @ 175 PSI with a 5 HP motor at 600 RPM, 20 CFM @ 175 PSI with a 7.5 HP motor at 900 RPM, and 30 CFM @ 175 PSI with a 10 HP motor at 650 RPM, (all single phase motors).


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## gjewers (Sep 10, 2014)

Hello all.

I was able to get the compressor and tanks for $500. Now to get it up and running. Initial inspection of the tanks showed minimal rust inside. No flaking or piles on the bottom of the tank. A friend of mine seid he treated the inside of a used tank he bought with some kind of rust eating chemical that he got from another friend but can't remember what it was. He said a lot of crud came out. Any idea what this may be or what I can do to clean up the inside of the tanks? I also heard about painting the inside of the tanks with rust resistant paint by rolling them around. Anyone ever done this? Thanks again for the help.


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## gjewers (Sep 10, 2014)

Back again with the compressor running now. Compressor and motor work well. One tank holding 175 psi. Second tank not checked yet. 
A couple of questions...

The oil site glass is missing and there is a solid plug in its place. Any idea of the quantity of compressor oil to use? Brand recommendations?

The pressure switch is fused and I can only find a Square D switch good for a 3hp motor. Mine is 5hp. Will this be OK? It has 3 capacitors built in so will this help prevent excess amp draw at the switch points?

Thanks for any and all the help. Electricity is not my strong point.

Thanks again.

greg


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Amsoil or Royal Purple are the 2 most widely found You do not want to use regular motor oil as the additive package is different compressors need more protection from condensation the i/c motors.

Fill to the bottom the threads on the fill hole if memory serves it should be almost 2 quarts.


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## gjewers (Sep 10, 2014)

Thanks for the oil info. 

More on this compressor.

It does not have any safety valves on the heads. Is this OK? I see them come factory installed that way but have heard of them being immediately removed. Any thoughts?

I'm trying to read the cfm charts and as previously stated in this thread, the pump should make about 15 cfm. So my tank is 120 gallons which = 16 ft/3. So if my pump is tip-top it should fill the tank in a matter of minutes? Does this sound right?
I have a 5 hp motor but not sure of the RPM. Currently it takes about 6-8 minutes to get to 160psi and not sure if it needs a rebuild.

Thanks again.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

6-8 minutes sounds good to me, Ive never timed them but I think mine at home as well as the one at work run over 10 minutes to fill.

It's probably not the best Idea to pull the safety valves off but I pulled the ones off mine because they leak.


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## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

1 Cubic Foot = 7.48 Gallons

Compressed Air Basics, Air Compressor Sizing Part 2 > 1. Flow & Pressure


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