# B&S 446777-0165-E1 V-Twin Firing on one cylinder



## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

Hey guys,

Great site. I hope you can help.

I have a B&S 446777-0165-E1 twin cylinder engine. It appears to be running on one cylinder, here are the symptoms:

Has spark to both cylinders (tested by mechanic). Appears to be getting gas to both cylinders (tested by mechanic). 

Starts easily and sounds like it's running on both at startup.

Within a few seconds, the sound of the engine changes, appears to run more smoothly.

With both plug wires in place and the engine running, if the "bad" cylinder spark plug wire is removed, nothing changes.

With both plug wires in place and the engine running, if the "good" cylinder spark plug wire is removed, the engine dies.

Mechanic did a compression test. Says that the "bad" cylinder is showing 150 at cranking/startup, within a few seconds drops to 120, then to 60 and stays there.

His suggestion was to replace the engine.

Any better suggestions?

Mike


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## bozodog (Nov 27, 2009)

> Mechanic did a compression test. Says that the "bad" cylinder is showing 150 at cranking/startup, within a few seconds drops to 120, then to 60 and stays there.
> 
> His suggestion was to replace the engine.


Find another small engine guy and have him look at the valves. You could pull the exhaust/muffler and have a look at the cylinder walls. If scored, replacement may be in your future. If not, my guess would be head gasket or a valve problem.


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

Thanks. After reading another post here, I was thinking about cleaning the carb, and opening the valve covers, inspecting and adjusting the valves to see if that improves anything. What do you think?

BTW, do those compression numbers make any sense? I have the B&S repair manual, but it says B&S doesn't publish compression numbers. It just gives advice to test if the cylinders are behaving equally.

Back up my hard drive? What if it's already against the wall? 

Mike


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

How old is the equipment?? What were the results of the compression test on the "good" cylinder?? Did your mechanic mention the possibility of a failing coil on the "bad" cylinder??


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

Engine and tractor are 2003.

He said the compression on the "good" cylinder is fine, but I don't think he gave me numbers.

No mention of failing coil. Wouldn't that kill the spark (he said it's getting spark, I haven't tested it yet myself).

Not to be overly stupid, but a compression test can really only be done with the engine NOT running, correct?

BTW, other than knowing it's running on one cylinder, it operates just fine. I do use this with a snowblower attachment, so I'd really like both cylinders to be running...

Mike


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

BTW, does anyone know where I can figure out which replacement model will fit if it comes to that?

The B&S site just has the newest specs, no cross-reference list that I can find. The big thing seems to be the "Type" code, which is supposed to indicate PTO, etc. Mine is 0165, what does that mean?

Mike


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Did you actually witness the presence of spark, or are you going by what the machanic told you?? Yes, a compression test can only be done by cranking the engine with the ignition disabled. 

I'm toying with the notion that a valve may not be closing all the way.... getting "hung" after the engine comes up to temperature. A constant "puffing" noise in the muffler will indicate the exhaust valve and a "popping" noise in the air cleaner indicates an intake valve. 

Check for spark and condition of spark plugs.... a plug may look good even though it has failed. Usually when a plug fails it is done for and will not come back to life and exhibit the symptoms your mower is showing.

I still don't think the engine needs replaced..... the least may be a bad coil and the worst could be valve servicing.

I came up with this...ouch!!

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Results.aspx?Ntt=691060&Ntk=Interchange Number&Nty=1&N=0

Got the part # and did a cross reference. Kinda pricey but less than a new engine!!


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## K-B (Oct 24, 2005)

Replacement Engine : 44Q777-0127 MSRP $819.95
Replacement Shortblock: 698172 MSRP $765.25


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

Thanks guys. I agree, valves do seem to make sense. I also have neglected some routine maintenance this year (oil, filters, plugs are all at least 1-2 years old)...

Mechanic mentioned valves, but thought it was probably cylinders because it had some pressure to start with. Honestly, I don't know how good this guy is, this is the first time I tried him out.

The mechanic didn't do the spark test in front of me, and I haven't pulled the plugs yet myself. I plan to do all of that tomorrow, and I will get a compression tester to help.

I'll start by adjusting the valves and see if that helps. I did notice a sound that almost sounded like backfiring (on the one cylinder that does work), so I probably have valve issues on both sides, most likely a dirty carb as well.

Here's my plan:
Change spark plugs, oil, air and fuel filters.
Clean carb.
Adjust valves (both cylinders).
Test for spark.
Test compression.

BTW, I couldn't get that napaonline link to work.

Just of out curiosity... How do I know what the type number means? Mine is 0165, where did you get the info that 0127 is a direct replacement?

Mike


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

I see what you mean about the link... I always check the links and it worked after I posted but does not work now. I will recheck and post if needed.

Just checked link again and it worked:4-dontkno
Could be a problem on their end.

Problem is on their end...retried and got error.


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

OK, is there anything you think that I should add to my list of things to try above?

Mike


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## K-B (Oct 24, 2005)

mikeinri said:


> Thanks guys. I agree, valves do seem to make sense. I also have neglected some routine maintenance this year (oil, filters, plugs are all at least 1-2 years old)...
> 
> Mechanic mentioned valves, but thought it was probably cylinders because it had some pressure to start with. Honestly, I don't know how good this guy is, this is the first time I tried him out.
> 
> ...


The type number identifies the engine mechanical parts, color of paint, decals, governed speed and Original Equipment Manufacturer. The replacement engine information is from Briggs & Stratton.


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

That's what's driving me nuts. When I look at the B&S website, I find a nice catalog of replacement engines and their specs, but I can't find a direct cross-reference list to old engines.

So, without pulling the engine out of the tractor, how do I know what size PTO I have (that seems to be the critical piece of info, and 0165, 0127, etc. must be the key to that info).

Mike


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## K-B (Oct 24, 2005)

The crankshaft is a 1" diameter, tapped for 7/16-20 bolt.


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

I go here just for comparison:

http://www.smallenginesuppliers.com/shop/agora.cgi

The only difference is the crankshaft extension....4 5/16" or 3 5/32".


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

Right... is that length not critical?

BTW, can't get your new link to work, either. I did go to their main page and searched for my number (446777-0165), but it wasn't found...

Hopefully, my list of items to fix tomorrow will get me going. I'll let you know.

Thanks again.

Mike


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

OK, here's an update.

FYI, I confirmed with B&S (email through website) the following information for replacing the engine: 446777-0165 replacement is 44Q777-0127, short block is 698172 (K-B was right, above). The 0165 featured the following: The crankshaft on the engine is 3 5/32" in length with a 1" diameter. The end of the crankshaft is tapped 7/16"-20.

Didn't get time to finish much of my list this weekend. Fortunately, the snow that we got Saturday night didn't amount to much on the driveway...

OK, so I tested for spark with a spark plug test light (not the B&S tool, but one that I bought at a local auto parts store). Both cylinders show spark during startup and while the engine was running (not that both cylinders are running). 

Removed the spark plugs. The plug in the "good" cylinder looks normal, gap was good (0.030 in). The plug in the "bad" cylinder looked sort of OK, the electrode and insulator looked normal, and the gap was good. However, the base of the housing appeared to be wet, but I can't tell if it's gas or oil (it's black, and a bit gritty looking). 

I then switched the plugs (put the one from the "good" cylinder into "bad" and vice-versa). The engine shows exactly the same symptoms, so the problem is definitely not the spark plugs.

I removed the air cleaner, and sprayed some carb cleaner and PB Tune-Up spray into the carb while the engine was running. This caused lots of choking and smoke, but after it cleared, it does sound a little better. This didn't fix the bad cylinder (not that I expected it to).

I also noticed that when the engine is stopped, some small puffs of white smoke come back up through the carb. I'm sure this is not normal, but what would cause that?

This is where I ran out of time. I really don't want to pull the carb apart yet (especially since I don't have a gasket set right now), so what should be my next move? Should I jump right to adjusting the valves?

Mike


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

I does seem that the valves may need to be looked at.

http://engines.myfaqcenter.com/Answer.aspx?p_faqid=3441&body_0$tbKeyword=valve adjustment

See if you can get some useful info from the link. 

If the engine has been neglected you may be looking at replacing it...hope not.

Don't know why it didn't come up as a link.. might have to copy and paste it.


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

I don't know if I qualify as "neglecting" the engine. I ususally replace the plugs, oil and filters every year, I know I didn't get to it yet this year. I haven't had the carb apart in several years.

Anyway, I'm going to start with adjusting the valves and see if that helps. If not, I'll pull the heads/valves and carb apart and go from there.

Mike


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

B&S does give instructions for head removal and carbon deposit cleaning. I can post the link if you like.

http://engines.myfaqcenter.com/Answer.aspx?p_faqid=3439


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

Yes, I had seen that too. I don't have new head gaskets, so I want to be careful before I start going too far. I have a feeling I'm going to end up there, however...

Mike


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

OK guys, here's an update. Finally got to work on this a bit tonight.

The "bad" cylinder is #2 (per the B&S manual). This is on the "driver" side of the tractor, so to speak.

Anyway, I pulled the valve cover off, removed the spark plugs, and turned the flywheel per the smalleng video to adjust the valves. The intake valve was actually too tight, so I adjusted it to 0.004. The exhaust valve was perfect, so I left it alone.

Put it back together (with the air cleaner off), and tried to start it with JUST the #2 spark plug wire in place. To my amazement, it started and ran. I shut it off, reconnected the #1 wire, and started it back up. Then, I pulled the #1 wire off while running, and the engine died as before.

So, I think I've gotten nowhere. I restarted the engine a few times with just #2 (the bad cylinder). It starts and runs (poorly). The throttle "hunts" or "surges" and the engine sounds like it's backfiring sporatically, but frequently. Again, this is all done with the air cleaner removed. Still runs beautifully on #1...

Tried spraying more carb cleaner while it was running, that was no help.

OK, what next? The manual says the following may affect one cylinder, not both:

1. Spark plug and carb adjustment. I know I have spark (used a test light), and (I swapped the plugs, so I know the plugs are both good. Not sure how a carb adjustment could affect just one cylinder on this engine.

2. Leak in spark plug wire. Again, this seems unlikely, as the test light shows good spark.

3. Head gasket.

4. Intake manifold.

5. Valves.

6. Rings.

7. Piston.

8. Cylinder.

So, unless you guys think my problem may be limited to a dirty carb, I think I'm looking at pulling the carb, intake manifold, and head, and at a minimum, cleaning everything and replacing the gaskets. I think a valve job is beyond my capabilites.

Any other ideas???

Mike


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## Madcat737 (Aug 2, 2009)

Hello mike, let me see if i can help out some. First your compression should be around 150 or so. Its not that important to be lower , due to the decompression being built into the cam shaft. I recently had a 446777/ 21 hp kick my butt, all over a carb. It was one of those non adjustable carbs . I disassembled it several times cleaning and poking around in it trying to find a problem. I came to the conclusion that one of the cylinders was hogging the fuel and a new carb did i fact fix my problem. Those carbs are really finicky and have some strange parts in it. Now about that cylinder that is running at 60 psi. That is not normal. Are you positive that is what is going on? If so a leak down check will tell you were its leaking. 

Here is the link to my post of my engine .

http://www.techsupportforum.com/f258/briggs-446777-21hp-backfire-thru-carb-401055.html .

There are 2 videos there to watch,one is my motor backfiring thru the carb and the other is a really good valve adjustment video.
My original problem was a partially wiped lobe on the cam shaft,which is common for that engine. That is easy to check just make sure your rocker arms are all moving equally.


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

Thanks. I did see your other post, that's the video I used to adjust my valves. That was extremely helpful.

When you say to watch for equal rocker movement, I don't know if I would be able to see that. How obvious would this be, and what's the best method for turning the engine while looking for this?

I am unsure about the compression, I didn't see the guy do the test. I bought a basic compression gauge, can someone walk me through what to do with it? I get the basic idea, but I'm trying to figure out what the mechanic was doing when he saw the pressure drop. Don't these gauges just show the max compression until you relieve the valve on the gauge?

The other thing that concerns me is that there is a visible amount of vapor coming out of the breather tube into the air intake (engine running, air filter off). When the engine stops, a bunch of white smoke comes back up and out of the air intake. I know this is a sign of a bad breather, but it's also a sign of worse things, isn't it?

BTW, when #2 is running (poorly), it's only at WOT. When I turn it down to idle, it backfires and stalls. #2 doesn't run when #1 is also running (the engine actually sounds beautiful with just #1 running)...

I'm sort of at a conundrum here. I really don't want to invert too much money into the tractor, and especially don't want to get in over my head with ripping the engine apart beyond my abilities to get it back together again. The cost of tractors is dramatically lower now than when I bought this one in 2003, so it's harder each year to justify spending $200 here and $200 there anymore (a new engine would probably be a really bad investment).

Thanks guys, I haven't given up on this yet, I want to at least make it to spring (it's snowblowing time), so if there are more ideas, please keep them coming.

Mike


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

Wow, 12-15 inches of snow, went through it with the 42-inch snowblower on just one cylinder, no problem. Wonder how long I've had this problem with no clue it was happening...

Which leads to my next question: If I keep running this engine on one cylinder, will it make the bad cylinder any worse?

BTW, from my original "to-do" list, here's my status:

Change spark plugs, oil, air and fuel filters. DONE
Clean carb. NOT done (I need a gasket kit)
Adjust valves (both cylinders). DONE for #2, I'm not touching #1 right now, it's running beautifully.
Test for spark. DONE (with test light, spark on both sides looks good)
Test compression. NOT done yet, read my question in my last post.

Mike


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Keep a really close eye on the oil. Running on one cylinder and one not running but still, maybe, getting gas, the protective oil film will be washed away.

Check the level often. Smell it !

BG


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

Gotcha. Gas in oil is bad...

What's the preferred method to clean the carb? I would assume taking it apart and soaking it is best. What's the best cleaner to soak it in?

Here's something scary. I just found a carb gasket kit for under $40, but a new carb is only $140. I would hate to clean the carb, put it back together with the new parts, and then have to throw it away and buy a new carb like madcat had to.

Mike


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## bozodog (Nov 27, 2009)

Wow! That's some pulling power... Did you think to pull the plug(s) and have a look at the condition of the one on the bad cylinder compared to the strong one?

Some folks use white vinegar for soaking a carb body prior to a rebuild. Cheap and not noxious. 

I trade my carbon credits for a can of spray carb cleaner.:wink:


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## Madcat737 (Aug 2, 2009)

To check rocker arm movement simple pull off the valve cover and turn engine by hand. It will be obvious if you have a problem. The vapor in the carb when shutting down is normal.The decompression built into the cam opens the intake valve about .002 allowing a small bit of gasses back into the carb. It sounds weird, but once the engine starts it kind of drops out of the picture.
I payed (791230 1 CARBURETOR 103.52 )for my carb online. www.Tulsaenginewarehouse.com
You are correct about the compression check.It should hold the max pressure in the gauge until released. Assuming that your compression is ok and the cam is ok ,i would really lean towards a carb. My engine had been run on 1 cylinder for a while due to a wiped lobe on the cam and i believe that ruined the carb somehow.
One other thing you can check is the flywheel key(partially sheared) and the breather check valve(stuck closed or open).


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

Yes, one of the main reasons we bought this tractor was to blow snow. There are a million things about the tractor and snowblower that have a tendency to break (some really, really bad design elements), but when everything's working, it can't be beat.

I did pull the plugs and noticed that the one that's firing looks good, the other looks wet. But, that was before I replaced them (and the oil), so I'll try to pull them again and have another look.

I'm really leaning toward replacing the carb now, especially if I can get it for that price! I did a pretty thorough cleaning a few years back (took it off and sprayed/toothbrushed the daylights out of it), but I've never given it a real rebuild and cleaning. I never use fuel stabilizer, but typically I do change the fuel filter annually. 

I've never touched the breather, so that's an obvious culprit. The book says to pull the flywheel to remove the breather, is that really necessary? I can see all three bolts...

I have a really old Tecumseh on a rototiller, had to replace the carb and breather on that a while back, runs excellent now, so maybe that's what I'm looking at here too.

Simple would be good (as opposed to valve job, or worse)...

Mike


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

If the symptoms remain the same... runs ok til reaching operating temps.... I would look at the pick-up assembly or check for a hung valve (weak or broken spring). If the cylinder does not fire at all, even when cold, I would replace the pick-up assembly for that cylinder.


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

Thanks.

I know I've typed a lot here, but I did run the engine on just #2 (the bad cylinder), it starts and runs poorly at WOT. Adding choke doesn't help. Stalls when dropped to idle speed. 

It will basically run on #2 for quite a while, but the throtte (governor?) hunts and surges, and it backfires (through the exhaust I think).

It won't run on #2 if #1 is also plugged in and running.

Did I mention, I really hate part-swapping...

Mike


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Mike,

Keep typing away, my friend. The more you type the better to give clues to your trouble. I'm having trouble with the carb issue... unless you have a real "hot rod" you only have one carb and equall intake lengths. How is the intake gasket at the head on the bad cylinder?? Might not mean much because the plug is wet and (to me) indicates bad spark or no compression. Make sure the pick-up coil is gapped to the correct setting and firmly mounted with no corrosion on the mating surface that it is bolted to.


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

OK. No one has answered this question, maybe you can. I tested the spark using an automotive test light, not the Briggs spark test tool. The spark looked good by the light, do you think I need to try the Briggs tool?

I did check the armature gap, seems OK. I could remove it and wire brush it, it was looking somewhat corroded on the top and sides.

Do you think it would it help to swap the armatures from #1 to #2 (and vice-versa) and see if that changes anything? The parts diagram shows one part number, so I would assume it's the same on both sides. I think that at least that way, I'd know whether to spend the $40 on a new armature.

Mike


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## mstpops (Oct 21, 2009)

sounds like the valves need refacing and seats recut - to be sure have someone leaktest the engine on both cylinders - you will hear a bad inlet valve seat @ carb 
a bad ex valve @ ex , -blowby the rings @ the c/case breather ( some is usually normal ) but excessive is not , if it is excessive worn rings on that cyl you will hear/ see a blown cyl head gasket @ push rod tunnel - check for bent push rods - have both coils tested on coil testor @ shop under a 6 -8 mm gap this stresses the coil , check the diodes in the wiring harness that come from the coils , could also be sticking valves in their guides ( valve service o/haul -leak test should pick this up )

try cleaning out the carby - assemble with new kit 

give it a whirl cheers mstpops


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## mstpops (Oct 21, 2009)

hi the cylinder with the least compression after a couple of minutes is the culprit 
leak test that cylinder before removing head to ascetain whick valves are causing the problem ie popping intake , chuffing exhaust but leak test will also let you know how bad the rings are on that cylinder by the amount of hiss ( good rings will have some ) but not too much 

general rule the components with the greatest amount of leakage past is the main compnent to look at 

sounds like diodes are ruled out and so too the ignition units 

more like valves & piston ring problem - local shop should be able to leaktest for you 
you already know what cyl is the weakest its the one with least compression and doing less work 


cheers mstpops


let me know what you find


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

OK, here's an update...

Took it to a different shop. They said spark is good on both cylinders, and compression is also good on both cylinders.

They removed the carb, and noted that on the side with the non-running cylinder, the carb was dry, and the side with the running cylinder was wet (with gas). So, they're telling me to clean/replace the carb.

I'll take a shot at cleaning it, I'll let you know how that goes.

My other major problem is a leaking tranny, I'll start a separate post for that.

Thanks guys.

Mike


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Keep us posted. Since you are going to open it up, why not pick a rebuild kit?

BG


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

OK, got my carb rebuild kit. I'm going to dismantle it tonight, soak the metal parts in some B12 at least overnight. Any special advice? 

When I put it back together, should I use any Permatex (gasket sealer) when I mate it back to the engine?

Mike


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Yes on the gasket sealer.

BG


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

Here's a quick update, no progress.

For the past three weekends, I have been working to get my truck back on the road. In the process, I misplaced the Briggs carb in my garage. Took me 3 days to find it (it wasn't really hidden, just not where I expected it to be)...

So, I'll try to rebuild it this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes.

Meanwhile, I've cut the grass with a push mower. Boy, does that take forever...

Mike


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

OK, progress (sort of)...

I FINALLY had time to work on this yesterday. Got the carb all stripped down, and it's been soaking in B12 since last night [just the body, bowl and solenoid retainer (part that holds the main jet)]. Everything else I cleaned by hand (wire brush). A couple of questions:

I couldn't get the main jet out of the solenoid retainer. The brass (screwdriver slot in the main jet) actually started to chip when I tried to turn the screwdriver. The book says to remove the main jet when doing a rebuild, even though they don't give you a new one with the rebuild kit. I assume it will be OK to leave it in and soak it?

I'm pretty sure that I found the actual culprit for this engine running on one cylinder. One of the ports in the carb body was blocked. Hopefully the cleaner will unclog it, because it's one of the deep ones. When you take out the emulsion tube, there are two brass pipes and two ports. When I shine a light through the body, I can only see light coming through the port corresponding to the side of the engine that runs.

If this port doesn't clear itself with the cleaner (and canned air), what other options do I have, short of buying a new carb?

I also forgot to buy new intake manifold o-ring seals, but I'm not overly concerned with those.

Mike


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

Wow, this is persistent!

Carb's been soaking in B12 Chemtool for 24 hours. Whatever is in that port is not coming out. I'm going to let it sit another day and see if that helps. If I have to, I'll let it sit for a week and just hope the blockage eventually dissolves.

I don't want to poke anything in there, from all I've read that will cause more harm than good (although at this point, if that blockage doesn't go away, the carb is scrap).

Any other ideas?

Mike


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Try to avoid metal poker if you can. Maybe a plastic bristle off a broom if possible.

BG


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

OK, tried the plastic broom, no luck yet. I'm going to let it soak until next week.

I do have some 36-gauge copper wire (super thin). I'm not sure if it's even strong enough to stay straight, let alone hurt anything. What do you guys think?

Mike


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

I don't think a 36ga copper wire will do it, but worth a try.

BG


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

Eureka! Major progress (finally)!!!

Carb has been soaking for a week in the B12. Took it out today, still blocked!!!

OK, so I had a scrap piece of 30-gauge (solid) thermocouple wire. Tried the copper piece, it fit through the non-blocked side. Tried it in the blocked side, it broke in place, far enough in so I couldn't get any tools on it to pull it out. Used a piece of matchstick to get it out (that wasn't much fun).

So, I took the other side of the TC wire, which was copper-nickel, and very carefully stripped a piece about 5 inches long (being sure not to nick the wire while stripping, which would make a weak point). I was able to get this into the blocked port, and it actually pushed through and opened it up!!!

I put a light through it, it was still more closed than the good side, so I took the wire and did some "flossing" (very carefully). I think they're opened up about the same now.

Ran out of time, so I now need to rebuild the carb, reinstall and see if that truly solved it. Really hoping I just saved over $100 on a new carb!

Mike


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Keep us posted...Good luck

BG


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

Will do. Grass is back up to my knees...

Mike


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## mikeinri (Dec 2, 2009)

Done! Fixed! Wooooo Hooooo!!!!!

BTW, I did notice when I stripped the carb that the rubber o-ring in the bowl was deteriorated, and some black flecks were in there. Not sure if something like that got sucked into the jet and eventually clogged that port.

Put it all back together, runs great. Starts (separately) and runs on each cylinder. Runs great on both cylinders. I can take off either plug wire, it will run on the other cylinder.

If I had a complaint, it almost sounds like it's running too fast now (at least with no load, but it ran great through the tall grass). I'll have to check that out later.

Moral of the story... if you're only running on one cylinder, strip the carb and make sure all the tiny ports are free. Don't assume (like one local mechanic did) that a clogged carb will always affect both cylinders.

Mike


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