# Buying First Circular Saw



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

My dad's planning to give me his old miter saw (which is far from the best of miter saws) when he's done with his renovations at his place but I'm fed up of waiting so I was thinking of just buying a circular saw that I saw on special at my local Canadian Tire, that way I'll have a circular saw and a miter saw in the very end. I have some DIY projects in mind for the garage and I'd like to get started since I'm done summer school and have the rest of the summer free now. 

Is this a good product/deal? Mastercraft 14A Circular Saw with Laser | Canadian Tire

I'll be using the saw for occasional use, as a DIY'er, nothing too serious; cutting 2x4's and plywood, etc. for shelving projects. What should I be using to evaluate the quality of a circular saw? This will be my first one and also the first time I use it on my own without supervision (I used to have my dad tell me how to operate it safely)?


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## oscer1 (Jan 27, 2010)

that will do just fine for home projects. i like makita for brand name.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

It should be good enough for your occasional use. I have a cheap saw I use.

Safety instructions should be included with the directions. They can be dangerous.
If you are going to do paneling I suggest you pick up a chalk line and blue chalk for it.

BG


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Bg are there features i should be looking at when buying a circular saw? Eg, amperage or handle/motor location


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

You can't have more amperage motor, or you risk over loading the circuit, at least here in the USA.

It should be fine for you.

BG


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Seems to be a decent saw from what I see. Laser may come in handy but I've never used a saw with one. This saw *does not* have a blade brake.....make sure the blade guard is in good working order. Do a quick visual to make sure the guard returns before setting the saw down......or wait til the blade stops. My last saw was $225....but it's an 8 1/4" and has no brake.

What make/model size miter saw does your father have?? I still have my original 9" from '75......:laugh:. It never gets used......I have a 12" Dewalt set up on a stand that gets used for almost everything. I only get a power saw out for large lumber or 'sheet goods' (plywood etc.). 2x4's get cut with the miter box......especially if repetitious cuts are required. I make 2 measurements and cut as many times as I can....:grin:


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

Read up on circular saw blades. There is a difference depending on the cut you want (speed vs. "neatness"). If you're not familiar with a circular saw, the scariest thing is it can "buck' if you don't maintain proper pressure. Also, wear eye protection.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

True, a brake would be nice. I'll hold off in that case. And I'm not sure what miter saw he has. I'll get back to you.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

A saw with a brake going to cost probably 4 times as much.

Buy that saw you found.

BG


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## bassfisher6522 (Jul 22, 2012)

For the occasional home projects that circular saw will be just fine. For the general contractor and professional builders....they tend to stay away from such low end power tools. We prefer top quality power tools and brand is a personal prefrence (choice) based on the need of the power tool. I partial to Makita and DeWalt for most of my power tools.

For a circular saw I prefer one that has a smooth base then the ones with the ribs. For my miter saw (DeWalt) I prefer the dual bevel compound miter. I don't have to flip crown molding upside down and backward to make the adjacent cut. I can just lay the crown molding flat and make the miter cut for either the left or right side...so much easier. 

Makita 5007MG Magnesium 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw - Power Circular Saws - Amazon.com

Shop DEWALT 12-in 15-Amp Dual Bevel Compound Miter Saw at Lowes.com


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

That one has a better table......less flexing. Home owner won't be doing critical work and the cheap one should be fine. I'll have to check inventory......I've lost track of the various brands of saws on hand. I most often use my 8 1/4" Milwaukee.....even though it's kinda heavy.

Dewalt dual bevel is what I have set up in the garage......on a Dewalt stand. My preference is the 12" slide miter but the oldest son has it....we had 2 but he sold one years ago. I used it for mitered skirt boards......my job was stairs.....:grin:

No need to go overboard with the tools for casual home owner use. $60 for a saw isn't bad to start out with. If the need arises for a better saw, then get a better saw. If a person's using the tools to make a living, that's a different story.

*I use crown stops......I cheat. I only have to set the cut angle and not the bevel....comes in handy on various wall angles.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

I ended up buying the initial Mastercraft circular saw. Gonna give it a whirl soon.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

It's been so long since I used the thing that I just ran out to the garage to see the brand. It's a Black&Decker.The spiders seem to have wanted to protect it and built webs all over it.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

My old Black and Decker saw has worked fine for me and it has cut a fair amount of wood. It was not expensive, just a basic home owners.

BG


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Seems to work well. Laser works well. Bevel cuts. Has depth adjustment. Just bought one of those heavy duty Irwin quick grip bar clamps so i can hold my lumber down to my sawhorse when using the circular saw. Read the saw manual and it says to keep the blade no longer than 1/4" more than the size of the wood im cutting to prevent kick backs.. Makes sense


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

Porter Cable makes a decent saw in that price range > Shop PORTER-CABLE 120-Volt 7-1/4-in Corded Circular Saw at Lowes.com

I have one at work we abuse cutting trailer floor out it's held up pretty well for the abuse it takes.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

Wrench97 said:


> I have one at work we abuse cutting trailer floor out it's held up pretty well for the abuse it takes.


As long as you miss the cross members.


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## Wrench97 (May 10, 2008)

They usually don't..............for repairs you cut across the floor board on the center of a xmember, since the floors are worn the thickness varies sooner or later the sparks fly either from the xmember or a screw.


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## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

The saw you bought should be fine for you, Solidify. Bearings will probably wear out, and you'll be ready for something else.

I have a Makita hypoid, but most of the time I use my cordless circular saw. For projects like the bathroom, they're great, even when you're framing. Current battery technology has made these tools really powerful, and convenient.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

I started using it and it works well. The laser feature is convenient but I wont rely on it to point of disregarding my measurements. For my first time using a circular saw, the one difficulty I'm having is using the straight edge accesory to make square cuts; my hands always move at some moment during the cut and I find it difficult to keep pressure aimed both downward and pressed against the side towards the square 2x4 I've clamped down to make sure my cut is straight.

Nonetheless, I got significantly better and more confident at handing it by end of the day. Thank goodness I had so much scrap wood.


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## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

Through practice, those cuts will get straight. Getting your body(especially shoulder and elbow) in the correct position so you're balanced, and can push all the way through the material with little resistance against your fence, is the key to straight cuts. You'll learn where your sweet spot is to stand.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

If im cutting a 2x4 or 2x3 about 3/4 of an inch in depth (and not all the way through) to make a dado, do i need to make sure the entire body of the saw blade has exited the lumber before pulling it up and out of the cut or can I remove the saw earlier if the cut is complete? Im asking because I removed it from the lumber early (before the entirety of the saw blade had gone through the wood) and on my motion of removing the saw from the crease, i wasnt leveled and it ruined the integrity of the straight cut


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

Go all the way through. Nice and smooth.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Kind of using the wrong tool for dado cuts. Dado cuts are, made by dado blades with a table saw. I would have used a router.

As it has been said, cut all the way across before removing the saw.

BG


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Yeah but it cuz Im following this woodworker on youtube called matthias wandeland he shows how to use a circular saw to make dado cuts in his sawhorse guide video. Im just doing this as a hobby so im not gonna start buying all these specific tools.. I know youre right though


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

It can be done, but hard to do. My router is probably 40+ years old, and may have used a dozen times is all.

BG


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## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

Push the center of the blade just out of the edge of the material, while keeping the saw shoe flat, with a little pressure on the heel. Let off the power, remove the saw/blade. Set for next cut.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Thanks vegas, your explanation helped.. I got it now. Its just hard to keep the shoe flat since theres no wood to rest it on on the right side


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## Dragoneyes001 (Jan 30, 2007)

Vegassparky said:


> Push the center of the blade just out of the edge of the material, while keeping the saw shoe flat, with a little pressure on the heel. Let off the power, remove the saw/blade. Set for next cut.


this is the correct answer (I'm a master carpenter by trade) 

black and decker is a home owner saw they work but nothing special or horrible about them.

the best saw for your buck is the Makita MAKITA Industrial Power Tools - Tool Details - 5007NK

for several reasons such as weight,reliability,accuracy and ease of use.

but that aside making dato cuts with a circular saw is not unheard of but can have some nasty issues like saw bind and wood chunks being expelled from the cut. wear protective eye gear preferably a face shield since it'll protect more and doesn't fog up as badly as goggles do.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

thanks dragon, my saw works well for the use i have planned. buy yes, everyone tells me dewalt or makita are the best


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## Dragoneyes001 (Jan 30, 2007)

Solidify said:


> thanks dragon, my saw works well for the use i have planned. buy yes, everyone tells me dewalt or makita are the best


personal taste here but I dont like the Dewalt circular saw. they do work and are reliable but the deck is a pain to be accurate with and having used quite a few over the years they get out of shape easily making the cut guide useless.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

Dragoneyes001; Miss Makita is influencing you. :grin:


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## Dragoneyes001 (Jan 30, 2007)

but dewalt makes the best compound miter/slide saws by a large margin.

Bosch makes the best plunge routers

and Hilti makes the best concrete cutting/boring/fastening tools

American made the best table saws (Full size) until recently currently I like the bosch portable (full size) smooth work and reasonably priced.

Dewalt has the most reliable cordless drills. 18/24 volt

Milwaukee makes the best sawzall 

Porter cable makes a great biscuit cutters and pneumatic piners

I may like Makita but its not alone in the tools worth buying.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)




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## MPR (Aug 28, 2010)

You can make excellent cuts with the cheapest of circular saws if you use the right accessories. One of the ones I use a lot is this one is a clamping straight edge, like this one

E. Emerson Tool Co. C50 50-Inch All-In-One Contractor Straight Edge Clamping Tool Guide - Circular Saw Guide - Amazon.com

which allows you to do many cuts in plywood which would otherwise require a large table saw (I have a table saw too but sometimes just clamping on a straight edge and using a SkilSaw is more convenient.

To make perfectly straight crosscuts on stock like a 2x4s to 2x10s where I can't (or don't want to) take to the board to my miter saw, I use one of these:

Swanson Big 12 Speed Square with Blue Layout Book - Carpentry Squares - Amazon.com

I used to do building maintenance and once had to replace several dozen rotted-out bathroom floors in an old apartment building. The initial cuts were done with a SkilSaw and one of these renovation blades, which cuts through about anything.

Bosch PRO72514NC Professional Series 7-1/4-Inch 14 Tooth ATB Nail Cutting Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch and Diamond Knockout Arbor - Circular Saw Blades - Amazon.com


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

I like the Straight Edge Clamping Tool, might get it.


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## Dragoneyes001 (Jan 30, 2007)

Corday said:


> View attachment 182241


i was pretty sure you meant a pin up/calendar girl.:flowers:


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## Gadsden (Mar 10, 2012)

This is what I use. Very easy to make and use.

How to Build a Simple Circular Saw Guide for Straighter Cuts - Popular Mechanics

Also, I have a 2" sheet of rigid Styrofoam that I lay my plywood on...on top of two sawhorses. It holds the plywood level so you don't have to hold up any ends while cutting.

My shop is in the basement, so I cut down sheets to rough size making it easier to handle on the table saws.


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Gadsden said:


> This is what I use. Very easy to make and use.


You too, huh?? Been using the same thing since late 70's.....the 'guide' is flat stock aluminium and I transfer it to a new 'base' when needed. Best guide to have for cross cutting any type of fine plywood or cutting doors. No measuring back to determine where the blade will cut......the edge of the guide indicates where the blade will be. For finish plywood or doors, score the veneer with a utility knife after you get the guide clamped in place. This guide will be for the saw that it has been made for and no other. I have different saws and a guide is made for each one and marked.

Of all the tools mentioned, one was not listed. One of my favorite tools from Milwaukee is the Porta-Band........I can do many things with that critter. I purchased mine years ago for cutting wrought iron balusters.....1/2" X 1/2" square and can be easily cut in less than 10 secs (closer to 7) with no sparks.


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## brainzbody (Mar 18, 2011)

Go into a store that sells a range of saws.
First, pick up a Black and Decker (cheap) and grab hold of the blade and try to rock it. you will feel this tiny little give. This comes from shaft and bearing tolerances. It is tiny, hard to feel but remember you saw blade is spinning at somewhere in the 6,000 rpms and it is this tiny wobble that makes the cut uneven and the saw break more quickly.

Next, pick up a Makita (high middle of the road) that blade will have no wobble
The Dewalt (when you look at the price tag make sure you have one of your father's nitro pills in hand) is in the Rolls Royce class. If you plan to build a few hundred houses, buy one they are worth the investment.

I recommend the Makita because it tends to be slightly more than the Black and Decker, but makes much better cuts.

It will also have a pin to help with changing the blade (I am sure everyone must have this by now, but been a very long time since I bought a saw.)

Keys to great cuts are sharp blades (find out who resharpens in your area), keep the blades clean, dry and oiled (rag in can with very little iol on it is enough) 

Whenever you can clamp a guide, like when ripping the length of plywood.
Also flip your work over and make cuts on the bottom so the saw is eating into the topside instead of coming up on the top and chipping.

Pay attention to blades. Guys who sell a blade that says Finish Grade Plywood are not just selling you another blade. It is designed to do THAT EXACT job. You would be surprised at the difference between the cut of a carbide tipped ripping blade (that one you are using to cut 2x4 and 2x6-91-12 et all) and a Finish Plywood on that $80 AA cherry finished plywood you are using for the cabinet you are making.

Cutting a plywood subfloor who cares, but should you ever decide to take this a bit further (and trust me so many of us do) be forewarned, all blades are not the same.

BTW small tip, next oil change take a 5 gallon paint bucket and mix the used motor oil into clean sand and use this to clean your shovels, picks and hoes. You end up with clean tools that are oiled and will not rust.

Wiping down your handsaws same deal. Saw with tiny bit of rust and small pits takes about 40% more energy to use. Takes 5 seconds to wipe one with a rag. 

Wipe you circular saw blade the same. Dry wood has tiny bits of moisture in it. Tape the wrench for changing your blades right next to your plug, it will help you to remember to ALWAYS unplug your saw when changing blade, Same goes if you have an antique drill with a keyed chuck.

and On that note I will agree with fellow above to look at battery powered and get second batteries. Some makers have gotten smart enough to make a single battery and charger for multiple devices. I think Makita does that.

Where I am we just grab beavers by the scruff of the neck. We call the crooked lines "decorative finishes" and charge extra! lol


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## RussellLinda199 (Sep 30, 2016)

If you don't know anything about circular saw and you want to buy then buy from Cordless Circular Saw. In this blog all circular saws are explained well.


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