# Electrical heating question



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

My basement's playroom has one wall-mounted thermostat controlling 3 separate electric baseboard heaters simultaneously. I am considering replacing the baseboard heaters with convectors. The baseboard heaters are installed on the three different walls that enclose the room. 

My question is: do I need to buy three convectors to replace each baseboard heater or can I condemn two and buy a 2,000W convector to place wisely at one of the best three spots?

This is the biggest room in the house and is in the basement which gets very cold during the winter time.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Way too may variables to even make guess. I know you believe that these type heaters are going to save you a bunch of money, I say they won't. You are dealing with resistance heat. No real secrets in electric heating.

The new heaters you are looking at are about 6824 BTU's/9.1amps. What are the old ones in BTU's/Watts/Amps ? That info should be on a data plate.

BG


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

The heaters linked are not the ones Im buying, just for purposes of demonstration.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

I'm just going by what my electrician suggested us (and my father agreed that they would help), so we've started making the transition. 

Regardless of whether you believe the heaters will help lower costs, can you please tell me what some of these variables might be?


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Room size, tempature rise you want, what is a play room?

Do the curent heaters do what you want?

BG


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Playroom is another word for living room. Yes, the heaters get the job done but out electric bill is through the roof. Even if it's a marginal payoff, I think it will help us since these heaters are not expensive. A 2000W is 150$ which heats an entire room.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

I never argue with a person spending their own money, go for it.

BG


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

don't get me wrong, I know you mean well, I'm just trying to reason for their use since 4 of them have already been installed at this point.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Only you can figure out if you are saving money or not. I guessing you are not much. 
To do that it will take 2-3 years of detailed record keeping.

Got to look at the pay back period. Lets say you save $5.00 a month but the heaters cost $6.00 a month, you are not saving any money.

Good luck to you.

BG


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

> To do that it will take 2-3 years of detailed record keeping.


I disagree. 

We just look at our electrical costs for the month during the winter and see if there is a significant difference. No records needed. The electrician informed us that the payback period for these new heaters will take as little as one winter, maybe two. He said that the electric baseboard heaters are carnivores for electricity.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

If I was selling them and or installing them I would tell you the same thing.

Electric heat is always expensive, I heated with it about 17 years. When comparing this years bill and last years bills don't forget to figure in daily tempature.

BG


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

What's a more cost-effective heating solution?


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Probably Natural Gas, but unless your place has duct work, installing it would be a killer.

Now when we had an all electric house I did have a wood burning stove and cheap access to wood. Also had one nice size kerosene heater, but kerosene heaters do have a smell and can't be left on when asleep.

Given where you live, I really don't think you have any choice.

BG


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

And given that I have no choice to opt for electric heating, what would be the most -cost effective heaters?


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## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

How much thermal loss do you experience? Would money be better spent on new windows, or added insulation? Every form of electric heat is expensive to operate. Tightening up the space, and holding the heat you do make might give you greater rewards, depending on how efficient the building is now.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Vegas, good call. Our home is very poorly insulated. That's what we hope to tackle next. Doors and windows.


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## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

Do that first. It'll start paying you back as soon as you start installing it. Added attic insulation can make huge efficiency improvements. It's relatively inexpensive, and easy to install. Your local utilities may even have rebate programs to help. 

You'd be amazed at what a tight building can do. We like to say heat it with a match, and cool it with an ice cube. That's exaggerating, but sometimes it sure seems that's all it takes to keep things comfortable. Once you work on that, the heaters you have now won't need to run nearly as much, and the desire to change them out won't be so pressing. That's more money saved.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

They still do make DIY window insulating kits I think. After the attic insulation, which is pretty easy, the walls are the problem, $$$$
Lot of wall repiar.

New windows, like triple insulated run close to $2,000 each installed. Wife got an estimate, on new ones about 3 years ago.

BG


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

We are the owners in a fourplex. And its an old house. So we are hesitant to get new windows and doors despite knowing thats the real source of air leakage bc it would mean having tondo the entire building and would cost a pretty penny. There should be a photo of my house lying around here somewhere on that stair thread post.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

We dont have an attic.


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## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

I feel for you. If that's the case, and you don't want to get into invasive retrofits, the high power bills will be something you'll have to deal with.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Or welcome to the joys of owning an older home.

BG


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

:facepalm:

Just trying to figure out if the cost of paying the electric heating without redoing the windows, doors and insulation will cost more than it would cost to renovate all the doors, windows and insulate.. 

Also need to ask how long we'll be living here. So many variables like BG said.


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## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

How long you'll be there is the biggest factor. You'll need some time to recoup your investment. Less than 5 years and leave it as is. 5-10 and go for the added insulation, and strongly consider the windows. Over 10 and do it all. Don't get overwhelmed. The biggest jobs are managed by turning them into a bunch of little jobs. Making a plan is fairly simple. Getting started takes a commitment. Finishing a job is what separates the men from the boys.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Just got off the phone with my dad and said that the two upstairs apartments have new doors and windows because we had a fire a couple years back and everything was renovated. So if we get new windows and doors, we'd only need to do us and the single apartment downstairs.

I need to discuss how long we will plan to live here.


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