# 94 Dodge Ram Transmission Problems



## ozplanet (Aug 31, 2007)

I have a 94 dodge ram I believe the tranmission is 46RE what happens is on acceleration the tranmission go from 1st to 2nd back down the 1st then to 2nd then to 3rd. On hard acceleration 1st to 2nd back to 1st then to 3rd. It would feel just like the tranmission is slipping. 

I have been reading about how Band Adjustment could be the cause. 

I took the truck into the shop asked them to change the filter and apart of changing the filter they are suppose to adjust the bands, I also confirmed this with them. 

After service I asked them if they took it for a drive, they said yes and said it works great!!! 

I reminded them that I am having a problem with 2-3 shift. The service manager took the truck for a ride again and called me back to say that the tranny is screwed and needs to be rebuilt. 

I am wondering did they actually adjust the bands ? Could the band being out of adjustment cause this problem and are they just trying to suck the money out of my pocket :upset:


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## PeckerWood (Aug 26, 2007)

The 42RE, 45RE, and 46RE transmissions use solenoids to shift gears in a normal upshift pattern.

Below link is an idea of what I am telling you about.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=GPS&MfrPartNumber=TSS27&PartType=424&PTSet=A


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## ozplanet (Aug 31, 2007)

If they are all accessible from outside the tranny then the Chrysler shop I have the truck at do not know about it. The only resolution they gave me was a $2000 rebuild of the tranny. I only bought the truck for $1000...

Time to get a second opinion !!!


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## PeckerWood (Aug 26, 2007)

Do you have an LKQ Parts store near you they do complete transmissions and install
for a reasonable price with 6 months warranty.This is of course if you can't
find a reasonable fix. Check their website below.

http://www.lkqcorp.com/products/products.asp

As you mentioned a second opinion is always a good idea.


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## ozplanet (Aug 31, 2007)

You know what I went and bought a can of Seafoam Transtune after picking up my truck from the shop. Damn it really does work. I drove the truck before putting the can into the tranny. There was no difference from before still slipping. I put the can into the tranny drove for 15km. The tranny got better. still slipping a little but much better and it now down shifts when I step on the peddle. I let it sit now for about an hour I am going to go give it a try again see if it gets better. I will let you know tomorrow


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## qldit (Mar 26, 2007)

Good Afternoon ozplanet, yes, some of these seal softening agents work wonders with auto-transmissions.
Quite often slippage kinds of problems are really due to clutchpack seal leakage and the clutches can't maintain pressure to operate properly or maintain hydraulic pressure in the systems.

With age, the large "o" rings used in these systems have surface hardening and often are very slow to engage or have other odd problems. 
When the additive has effect it commonly restores normal operation after a week or so and they then operate virtually normally for an extended period.
The same kind of thing happens in band actuators where the sealing "O" rings degrade.

You can do a quick transmission test by selecting 1st and not allowing the machine to move using the brakes, and increase the throttle, the engine should not break-away and over-rev. You can do the same thing in reverse, same effect should be present.

When you select drive 1st and drive the vehicle to a fast speed, drag should be present when you decellerate, the same effect should be felt in second in second after the shift happens. Reverse should have a similar effect.

This kind of testing can help analyse what is actually happening.

It is not uncommon to find the engine actually breaks away and over-revs as though you were driving a manual with a slipping clutch regardless, this often suggests a torque converter kind of problem. 

The kickdown system is also worthy of checking rigging (if it uses a cable) from the throttle linkage. 

These things can be a lot of fun to work with, but the seal softening additives often have miraculous effect.

Cheers, qldit.


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## ozplanet (Aug 31, 2007)

Well, after sitting all night the improvments are noticeable when it does shift back into first gear it only lasts for only a fraction of a second. When I accelerate hard it shift normally sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. So the fix is in there wanting to come out but not quite yet. But, I do have to say there is a noticable improvement all around. I am happy, the truck is driveable and that is what counts.

I did the tests qldit, and there is no slippage. When i got the filter changed they said the transmission is very clean there were no metal shavings and the fluid was not burnt. I think it is just a matter of the transmission sitting for too long and the seals dried out.

My kick down system sticks wide open on the tranny. I lubed everything outside so I am guessing the sticking is internal. Hopefully, the conditioner will help with that as well.


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## qldit (Mar 26, 2007)

Good Morning ozplanet, sounds like the way to go there, I often disconnect the "kickdown" system when I play with some of these things, I have seen an occasion where the thing had been adjusted improperly and was really baffling!

Having clean oil is a good sign.

Best of luck with it,

Cheers, qldit.


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## ozplanet (Aug 31, 2007)

Well, so far no luck. I took the truck back to the shop and had them adjust the bands. Did not make a difference...

I am going to buy another transmission.

Does anyone have experience changing the tranny on this ram. I am looking for a time frame, to see if I would be able to change it over the weekend or it might need more time than that.

I have change tranmissions in mostly gm RWD and once a mustang. But never had to change a dodge and certanly not a truck. A bit worried about if my jack will reach


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## qldit (Mar 26, 2007)

Good Morning ozplanet, yes working on trucks is a bit different to cars, the parts are also usually much heavier so it is a commonsense exercise.

I prefer to use a decent trolley-jack and have plenty of suitable wooden blocks to apply to areas as needed and work on a decent firm level surface.

You will also probably need a second ordinary Jack to support the rear of the engine.

Be careful of the radiator if it has an engine fan, sometimes the clearances are tight when the engine pivots a small amount. Also keep an eye on radiator hoses, may need to disconnect the top one.

You might try to get the torque converter to come away with the transmission if at all possible, might need to pry it loose with a lever, sometimes they don't want to come easily.

Ensure the vehicles is well safetied and stable with chocks and stands.

Make sure you have a mate assisting holding the transmission rear end so that you don't wear it!

You will need to keep it balanced on the Jack so don't try to do it on your own, usually some extra hand is needed to lower the Jack etc.

I would expect you will spend most of a day doing that job. 

Have fun and be careful!

It will be interesting to strip that transmission and see what has actually happened to it, I suspect the clutchpaks would be worn, the "O"rings would all be hard, the kickback may have some stiction and that would probably be what has been causing you headaches, but usually replacing all the seals, clutchpaks, bands and possibly the torque converter is generally accepted as the best repair methods.
Don't tell anyone but I commonly don't replace the torque converter if the prelim tests appear OK.

Best of luck there.

Cheers, qldit. 

Cheers, qldit.


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