# [SOLVED] Wasp Nest Removal



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

So I just used Raid's Wasp and Hornet Spray (400g) for the first time to remove about 4-5 wasp nests in my backyard. For starters. that can, although it may look big, it's finished in practically 30 seconds worth of spraying. So it's safe to say it's a very expensive product. I thought it would last me (since it's brand new) for several seasons, to use here and there when I see a nest. Turns out that the liquid is very quick and comes out a lot at once. I'll go back to take a look tomorrow and possibly add more product while also looking to see if there are nests that I missed (since I sprayed some on the fly tonight after seeing them for the first time, part of the reason why I didn't have enough as I'd have wanted to have). 

Is it normal that the nests keep coming back? Two days ago, I was stung twice in a matter of 5 seconds by wasps so I'm a bit concerned, especially since I've seen how redundant removing these nests have proven to be (I've also removed about 6 nests this spring and now these.. will they ever stop going back to the same spots to rebuild/find new spots around the home or am I just going to have to keep removing them as they appear?


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

It shouldn't have ran out on you like that. My cans last a pretty long time. Just don't be so liberal on the spray. Just a little amount will do the trick.

Besides their new cans (in the US anyways) don't do a spray any longer. It's more of a foam that turns into a dripping liquid.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Yah I guess I didn't know how much needed to be applied and put too much on the first two. And yes, it WAS a foam, just didn't describe it well. It comes out with quite a lot of force though, making the next swing and break, then leaks down the nest.

I just hope when I got back to remove the nests tomorrow that there won't be any bees anymore and when I remove the nests, that they don't rebuild them because that can that lasts about 30 seconds max is 10$.


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## Masterchiefxx17 (Feb 27, 2010)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

It comes out strong so you don't need to get so close to the nest :grin:


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Figured that out a tad late :facepalm:.
Either way, I waited 'till it was night-time and did it with my trusty flashlight.


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## satrow (Feb 4, 2012)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Err, wasps, as per the OP, or bees, as in #3?

Will they come back - not if they're dead - but others will, if the habitat supports their requirements.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

I meant wasps. I learned the difference today so I'm just getting accustomed to using both them accordingly.
So if I go back tomorrow and there are still wasps on any of the nests, what do you suggest I do satrow?


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## satrow (Feb 4, 2012)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Depends which species they are and how tolerant you are. Some wasp species can be beneficial to Man - depends if they like to eat other insects that might bug you more.

What colour are the nests? Are they all at a similar height and in a similar micro-habitat?


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

I'm pretty sure they're wasps since they're not big enough to be bees but more than that, ditto. The nests are washed out grey (some lighter) with holes in them, like below. They are located on the exterior of my home, most of them on the corner of the window frames while some are in my gazebo and two more under the crevices of my 4 foot tall balcony.


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## satrow (Feb 4, 2012)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

It's important to (carefully) photograph an adult to pinpoint it to species, learn the most obvious field marks, etc. for future IDs; not all wasps sting, some of those that do, only do so very rarely.

The washed out grey colour indicates the nests are made from dead wood (wasp species tend to specialise); if they were made from living wood, they would have a more orange hue. To reduce the chances of them (or their surviving neighbours) returning next year, clear up all dead wood lying around - no nesting material, no nests. Obviously impractical if most of the buildings and fences, etc. within a hundred yards or so are all unpainted timber.


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## medab1 (Jan 8, 2013)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Those yellow wasps are as nasty as the black ones.

They should be sprayed in the middle of the night when they have mostly all returned to the nest.
Some of them will get lost before dark & not return till next day.
It will probably take several sprays to get all of them.

Yellow jackets, in the ground nests, can be killed with bleach poured in their holes.
They have several escape routes.
Or black hornets.

Both of those & bumble bees will chase you en-mass for a long ways.
Unlike honey bees they don't have a barb on their stinger & can sting over & over again.
Same with wasps.No barbs.
A honey bees stings once & dies.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

I took some photos for you of the mess I cleaned up today.


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## satrow (Feb 4, 2012)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Not sure from the photo's but I'd guess at Dolichovespula arenaria (Common *Aerial Yellowjacket*) from the nest site. 










Not something you want nesting on, or close to, a dwelling; early in the season they hunt mostly for protein (bugs, discarded meat & fish) but from this time on, they'll look more to sugary foods (fruits, soft drinks, etc.).

Most gardeners would probably put up with, or actively encourage them, especially if they live in a low-density population area, as they are beneficial to gardeners and food producers: Paghat's Garden: Yellowjackets

Given that honey bees have been in a steep decline in recent years, in the near future we may become more reliant on things like social wasps to do more of the pollination for food crops. Hand-pollination would be pretty time-consuming.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*



> early in the season they hunt mostly for protein (bugs, discarded meat & fish) but from this time on, they'll look more to sugary foods (fruits, soft drinks, etc.).


I have a gigantic pear tree in my yard. We never have time to collect the fruit when it's ready (let alone do the yard-work, since my dad left) so all the pears just fall to the ground (grass) and rot there. When that happens, it attracts all kinds of wasps that like the sugary fruit. I was just thinking of removing the entire tree since no one bothers to take care of it. Hopefully it would help the wasp problem.

I told my mom to get rid of the tree and she said she doesn't want to because it's nice and provides privacy for our balcony (since we have a yard facing a shopping centre parking lot). She also said that the tree is not the problem since the wasps are around/forming nests even before the pears are out.

What would you suggest? I'm fed up of these wasps.. Already been stung twice the other day just doing some yard work, not even bugging them. They had made a nest in my shed where all my tools are.


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## satrow (Feb 4, 2012)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

A pear tree eh, that's probably the most difficult call of all the fruit trees to make when it comes to considering removal; very slow maturing, sometimes decades before they produce their first meaningful quantity of fruit; long-lived too, sometimes several hundred years.

Assuming it's a good edible variety, is there a way you could consider opening up access to the crop for the local community to share?


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*



> Assuming it's a good edible variety, is there a way you could consider opening up access to the crop for the local community to share?


Not really. The tree is in my backyard. Once in a while, the city comes to trim it for us since it's so big it closes in on electrical power lines. But besides that, it's entirely on our land. 

The tree is good. When my dad lived with us, we would collect the pears, wash them and eat them. But now no one has time for any of that; everyone is caught up in their own affairs and since my parents split, I was left with a chunk of responsibility, taking care of the house being one of them.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Also, I spoke to him and he suggested to get rid of the tree or either bring it down since it's very tall.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

If it gets trimmed really good, much less pears for 2-3 years. Worked for mine.

But you have to get them up off the ground when they fall. 

I hate 20+year old pear tree, but it is a tree. The tree was loaded in 2008 when we had a big wind blow all the pears down. Took forever to get them all picked up!

BG


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*



> If it gets trimmed really good, much less pears for 2-3 years. Worked for mine.


Well because of the way we trimmed it last year, doing that would be hard. We trimmed it from under so the topmost part of the tree that's passing the power lines is full of leaves and fruit and the bottom portion of the tree has had its branches sawed off.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Here is one loaded branch before it got trimmed up in 2009:










BG


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Your pears are nicer than mine. Mine always have brown spots on them and are not hard; they're usually very mushy.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

My pears are very hard, they are better cooking/baking type. I have had them weigh over 1 pound each.

It is even more important for you to keep the pears picked up.
Bugs just love the mushy brown spots. When I pick them up off the ground I wear heavy gloves, I have been stung more than once in my hands.

BG


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Picking them up by hand is so tiring. Is there an easier way? Nobody eats the pears. I just want to get rid of the wasps. I'm scared to work in my yard at this point because of all the nests. And I'm not even sure if the pears contribute to the wasps.. that's why I'm not sure if caring for the tree would ameliorate the situation.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

The pear tree abets their return. You could try a couple of homemade traps (2 liter soda bottle type) to divert them.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Here is what I meant, this is my pear tree. Keep in mind, the balcony is about 5 feet off the ground/grass level:










And while we're talking about trees, see if you can help me solve this. I have a cherry tree that broke free from its white brace that was supposed to help it grow straight and below is the result. If I push very hard, I can center the tree but it's so tough that I can only hold it that was for about 2-3 seconds, just to give you an idea of how far along it is. I was told tieing it to the fence would just do damage to the fence. How else can I straighten this cherry tree without having to dig it out and re-plant it straight?


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## WereBo (Apr 5, 2008)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Hi Solidify :wave:

Re:



Solidify said:


> ..................................
> 
> And while we're talking about trees, see if you can help me solve this. I have a cherry tree that broke free from its white brace that was supposed to help it grow straight and below is the result. If I push very hard, I can center the tree but it's so tough that I can only hold it that was for about 2-3 seconds, just to give you an idea of how far along it is. I was told tieing it to the fence would just do damage to the fence. How else can I straighten this cherry tree without having to dig it out and re-plant it straight?


The only way you can straighten the trunk is to dig it out and replant+stake it - However, you can straighten the top bits from where the trunk forks just by hammering some stakes in deep (3' minimum), then using either ropes or steel-cables to 'pull' the upper branches back (You might need 2-3 people to help with this, 1-2 to hold the trunk/branches in place, while t'other person ties-off the rope/cable). You won't get the entire tree upright, but it will give a rather cool/nice 'Bonsai' effect, with the curve in the trunk/branches.

*Note:-* It will need 2-3 years minimum, before the cables/ropes can be removed. If you choose this option, don't forget to wrap the cables in either thick rubber or plenty of cloth, to protect the bark and trunk.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*



> you can straighten the top bits from where the trunk forks


From the picture, are you talking about the left or right side fork?

I'll explain myself better so you know what I'm going for. It's not so much that the tree isn't straight that bothers me but it's just because I can't get under it when mowing my lawn because it's very low and crooked. 

What would you do if you were in my place? How long do you think it would take to dig out the tree and replant it straight? If I go this route, would it be difficult to dig out? How would I ensure that the tree stays straight once I plant it the right way afterwards? Can it be dug out with a shovel or will I need machinery/help?


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

I would say it too big to replant. It would be to big of a ball.

BG


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

BG, what do you suggest in that case? I would hate to leave it like that, it looks bad and is a nuisance for when I do my yard work.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Looking at it even more, your don't have enough room to pull it straight. Fence is too close. The closer your anchor the bigger and deeper the anchor.

Your would need to use cable, a cable strencher (hoist) and like a fence strencher. Plus cable "u Bolts" and turn 2 buckles for each line.

Looks like to you should be able to cut under alright now , but you have to use a push mower.

BG


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*



> Looking at it even more, your don't have enough room to pull it straight. Fence is too close. The closer your anchor the bigger and deeper the anchor.


Keep in mind I have a fence on the right of the photo that got cut off. The fence is literally where the right border of the picture is. Slightly to the right and you'd have seen it.



> Your would need to use cable, a cable strencher (hoist) and like a fence strencher. Plus cable "u Bolts" and turn 2 buckles for each line.
> 
> Looks like to you should be able to cut under alright now , but you have to use a push mower.


Didn't understand any of the above lol


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## WereBo (Apr 5, 2008)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

To borrow your picture, I'd remove the lower-left limb back to near the trunk, then stake and 'train' the remaining 1 or 2 limbs to a more vertical position.

It's hard to tell from the angle of the photo, but you might just get away with training the remaining left-hand limb to a more vertical position, but it might start to crowd the centre of the tree too much.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Thanks for the illustration but after having trying to push the tree trunk to a vertical position, I have a hard time believing there is any sort of stake or rope that would be able to support that weight, even if it would be 3 feet into the grass.


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## WereBo (Apr 5, 2008)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

You won't be able to pull it straight, it's a way of 'encouraging' the tree to grow where you want it to go - Similar to how the Japanese Bonsai-trees are grown, but enlarged.

When I was working at a local environmental-trust back in the 90's, the wardens there used this method to train the trunk/branches, rather than just lopping them off. Depending on the thickness of the branches, it can take years to get it just where you want, the tension needs to be tightened each year, as the branches grow into their new shape.

You might be able to move the trunk itself, but it would involve a lot of manual digging to remove the soil to expose most of the roots, then stake the tree into place, before replacing the soil. Just as long as the main tap-root isn't damaged, the tree should survive - Though you may lose a year or 2's crop and growth, due to shock to the tree.

The only other way would involve a mechanical 'tree-mover', with special 'jaws' that dig around the roots and lift the entire root-ball out, leaving a hemispherical hole in the ground.

Clyde Road Upgrade - Tree relocation - YouTube


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Kind of one of those deals, should have been pulled up right after is pushed off straight.

Tree is not that old, I'd cut it down and replace it.

BG


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

The branches look like they are growing "right", I suspect this got blew off some time ago. You can leave it as is. 

The tools I would mentioned the average home owner would never have. I used them installing guy wires (cables) on radio antennas. I just think it is too late to attempt straightening up. Leave it along or cut down.

BG


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*



Basementgeek said:


> I just think it is too late to attempt straightening up. Leave it along or cut down.
> 
> BG


Cut the entire thing down?

@WereBo, that tree re-locator truck is amazing lol


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Again how long ago did it bent over?. The longer it grows that way the harder it will be to move.

WereBo did an excellent job, how ever the rope on the stake has to be lower, like ground level. If it were my tree I would probably leave it along, looks like it is growing ok. Just by looks I'd say it got bent over more than a year ago.

BG


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

I'd do as BG says....leave it alone or chop it down. Anything you use will not be short term......it took years for the tree to grow like that and will take time to attempt to correct the way it has grown. From looking at cherry tree photos I think that they have a tendency to grow the way yours has......just leave it alone. Whatever you use will be in the way for cutting the lawn......and you think the tree is bad enough to cut around. 

How much of a crop does the tree produce?? Do you make use of what it does produce?? Looks like some serious pruning has been done and the tree looks like it's in distress. If you don't use the fruit or it doesn't produce much fruit I'd replace it.....with something I would use or could preserve for later use.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

What grass?, looks like 98% ground cover :>)

I can't see it a yard work problem, not more than most trees. All trees you have to cut around. Looks like a standard push powered mower would do the job. 

BG


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*



> If it were my tree I would probably leave it along, looks like it is growing ok.


Yes but because of the incline, it's hard for me when I have to mow my lawn. That's why I wanted it to be straight. I was thinking of cutting the branch to the left of the photo (where the main trunk forks) and then just maybe pull it to the right a little but to straighten it, although it may not even be necessary to do that once the left branch is removed (since the excess weight will allow the tree to continue growing upright).



> I'd say it got bent over more than a year ago


That's pretty accurate.



> From looking at cherry tree photos I think that they have a tendency to grow the way yours has......just leave it alone. Whatever you use will be in the way for cutting the lawn......and you think the tree is bad enough to cut around.


If you think that would be best...



> How much of a crop does the tree produce?? Do you make use of what it does produce?? Looks like some serious pruning has been done and the tree looks like it's in distress. If you don't use the fruit or it doesn't produce much fruit I'd replace it.....with something I would use or could preserve for later use.


This year no crop yet for some reason. When there are cherries, sure, we'll pick them. I don't know what pruning is but no one takes care of anything on the backyard if that answers your question, so whatever is current is the result of no one doing anything.



> If you don't use the fruit or it doesn't produce much fruit I'd replace it.....with something I would use or could preserve for later use.


TBH, I would love to remove the trees in my yard and just redo my lawn and have nice lawn everywhere with no trees. We don't even use the crops, we just take them when they're hanging so they don't rot (in the case of the pear tree). But my mom keeps disagreeing with me saying that the pear tree provides privacy. :facepalm:



> What grass?, looks like 98% ground cover :>)


Don't get me started on my grass.. I'm so frustrated that both my 80-yo-retirees neighbours make my grass look bad, the way they take care of theirs.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Back with these nests. All over the building. 

Towards the end of this thread we started talking about straightening up that cherry tree so we digressed a bit off-topic. I'm still concerned about these yellow-jacket nests coming back every year. How do I address this? Is it normal? I sure hope not because I don't want to live with that...


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Be vigilant and spray before the nest gets too big. The reason you spray at night is because they want to sleep so if you can light up the area, they loose interest and go elsewhere. Hanging mesh blocks the crevices but it's too much trouble.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Sure, I can remove them right away but my concern is why they come back all time, sometimes twice within the same season.


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## MPR (Aug 28, 2010)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Wasps come back to an area because the habitat is suitable for them. As long as there is a place to nest and a good food source (which varies with species) they will return.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Yeah so I'm pretty sure it's that pear tree in that case. But my mom would never let me get rid of it, nor Do i think it would be a good idea since it gives privacy. I guess ill just keep raiding them


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## MPR (Aug 28, 2010)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*



Solidify said:


> Yeah so I'm pretty sure it's that pear tree


Yellow jackets do love rotting pears -- every Fall I have to be careful mowing around our pear tree because they are on every fallen pear by the dozens.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Same here! Whats your secret? Right now i have smsll pears the size of cherries all over the ground


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

A pear tree should not be dropping fruit that small. Need to check out the leaf shape/pattern to make sure. I have had pears the size of a soft ball, those can be 
one pounders. 

I have to pick my pears, on the ground, by hand. I use heavy rubber gloves.

BG


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

What exactly should i be looking for when looking at the pear tree leaves?


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Those pears you can already see are about the size of a golf ball. There are many leaves that have more severe of those burn marks.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

I would not think Hornets would not bother them until the start to rot. I keep mine picked up every couple of days. I put them in a covered trash can.

Yep, that is a pear leaf of some kind, my leaves some what bigger.

BG


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## MPR (Aug 28, 2010)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Pear Leaf Spot — Fruit Production for the Home Gardener — Penn State Extension


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

21 steps listed here some already covered How to Get Rid of a Wasp's Nest: 21 Steps (with Pictures)


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## tumbleweed44 (Aug 12, 2010)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Vespula Vulgaris (Common Wasp). In the early stages when they are forming their nest which can be the size of a golf ball if this is within sight gloves, scraper and plastic bag problem gone. However later on in the season this nest can increase in size I have seen them 2-3 feet in width when they get as big as this professional gear is required usually I have done this type of nest round about dusk. The secret is to break up the nest once this is done they will not return to that nest and spray the area look to see how they are getting in if it is a small aperture in brickwork try some silicon sealant they do not like it. They will move on and doing it at dusk lessens the chance of being stung, oh and by the way if it is near windows close them as they will be a bit angry wouldn't you be getting turfed out at 9.00 at night.


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## MPR (Aug 28, 2010)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

I just found a wasp nest next to the pear tree. Fortunately, they made it easy for me to get rid of them by building it in a No. 10 can I had hung upside down on a fence post. This got me thinking about setting more such "traps" for them in the future.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*



Basementgeek said:


> I would not think Hornets would not bother them until the start to rot. I keep mine picked up every couple of days. I put them in a covered trash can.
> 
> Yep, that is a pear leaf of some kind, my leaves some what bigger.
> 
> ...





MPR said:


> Pear Leaf Spot — Fruit Production for the Home Gardener — Penn State Extension





> Routine fungicide sprays


We have bans on sprays here. Can't use any of that stuff unfortunately.



> joeten said:
> 
> 
> > 21 steps listed here some already covered How to Get Rid of a Wasp's Nest: 21 Steps (with Pictures)


Ok good read but since I have no cracks anywhere and they're just setting up the corner of the windows, I guess it must be my pears. It's odd though

tumbleweed, like I said, there are no cracks, the wasps arent entering the premisises but they are just nesting around the exterior windows which is dangerous for when I have visitors on patio or do yardwork. and yes, I will surely close the window before i take them out with my raid spray.. lol:facepalm:


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

I have a friend who lives 5 minutes away from me he tried method 5 and so far it has worked though I think it was bees he mentioned.

Hang fake nests. Wasps are extremely territorial and will not build their nest close to another colony's. Therefore, hanging a fake wasps' nest or two is a great way to deter them. You can purchase fake nests at gardening centers and hardware stores (many of which are beautifully designed) but you can have just as much success by hanging a brown paper bag!


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Yes! Amazing idea! I've even seen them at the store. I'll pick one up and give it a shot.


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

You can also try the paper bag which should cost little to nothing.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

I think I'll try the actual store-bought nest since if I try with the paper bag and it fails, I'll atomically assume the store-bought one will not work. This way, if the store-bought one fails, no point in trying the bag. Besides it's 7.99$ for 2 nests.


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## sobeit (Nov 11, 2007)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*



Solidify said:


> We have bans on sprays here. Can't use any of that stuff unfortunately.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


you need to reread that article. it doe not just talk about cracks. There are some very good tips in that article for the issue you are having.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

I read the article and simply pointed out what i didnt already know. I went through it trust me i wouldnt ask for help and then dismiss the references that would allow it


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## MPR (Aug 28, 2010)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

I see that Quebec has banned residential use of the fungicides Benomyl, Captan, Chlorothalonil, Iprodione, Quintozene and Thiophanate-methyl. However, I would bet that if you go to your local garden center they will have non-banned alternatives stocked. I see that sulfur, calcium sulphide and calcium polysulphide are approved for use outside elementary schools and day-care centers so they might be OK for private residences. Also, things like garlic oil and baking soda have mild fungicidal properties and may be stocked at garden centers for this purpose.


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Spotted a bald-faced hornet nest on my soffit the other day.....just getting started. I'll keep an eye on it to see if it's active......makes no difference, though, I'll put on a jacket and knock it down if it is. 

Gable vents are a common place for nests......I just get a can of wasp spray and stand on the ground. Once the nest is no longer active I get the ladder and remove it. 

The ones you have to worry about are the ground hornets......those critters are aggressive. They attacked me last year when I was trimming. Haven't noticed them this year and the cold winter may have done them in......I hope. I'll take a long stick and probe the area where I last saw the nest entrance.


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Turpentine and a match at least that was my neighbors method 2 years back. For ground wasps.


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

My nest is active.......better get it knocked down before it gets bigger.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Or you could toss it at some pesky kids lol


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Right now it's the size of a baseball......but they get huge. I'd rather dodge a few than a few thousand......I may see if I have some old wasp spray in the garage. If not I'll take my chances with a nice long piece of ceiling grid......that stuff's 12' long.


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Mine's down......how's Solidify doing on his?? I grabbed an 8' plywood ripping and dislodged the nest......waited a few minutes and got what I missed. Didn't even bother putting on a jacket or long sleeves......just reach up and scrape the nest off before the colony gets large.


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Havent gotten a chance. Still in the limping recovery stages of surgery so ill wait till i can run to do the nest incase ill need to lol plus
One is on my tenants balcony


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

I'd make sure I could run fast....:rofl:. Sometimes you can't run fast enough!!


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## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Lol noted... My soccer playing days are over but i still got some speed haha


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## fisheater (Jan 27, 2013)

*Re: Wasp Nest Removal*

Re: wasp nest removal --
I wait until early morning and use this nasty stuff -- one in each hand with the little tubes attached! Kills 'em out of the air!


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Found where ther ground hornets moved to......well, my son found them while trimming around the house. A small piece of mortar is missing in the block foundation.......they found a new home. Luckily he didn't get stung like I did when I was trimming the side lot......:sigh:

He's out getting some wasp killer right now.....they'll soon be gone and I'll fill the small hole in the block. Sure hope they don't find their way into the basement!!

He tried some brake cleaner but it evaporates way too fast. Tub and tile cleaner (breaks down their exoskeleton) doesn't give me the distance I need to stay away from 'em. If I get gnats in the trash can I use it on them......works good with no strong odors.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

My wife uses hair spray and they can't fly.


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Not sure if there's any hair spray in the house.....OK, there is some but I wouldn't know where to look. The kids never put anything back when they're done. 

Sounds like it would work, though. I need a little extra distance......those things are aggressive.


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

A cheap on of theses would give some distance Gardeners Choice 5L Pressure Sprayer


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Just bought one of those......ready to throw it in the rubbish bin.....:laugh:

The pump shaft is plastic and I doubt it will last very long. Don't even think about putting more than 1L in it or you won't have enough space for air. I filled mine and could only spray for ~15 seconds......had to constantly pump the thing to get any kind of spray......:nonono:. I have an older 2gal sprayer with a steel pump shaft........works great but I use it for RoundUp. I'm too lazy to clean the sprayer so it can be used for insecticide or fungicide. Have enough trouble trying to keep the garden in decent shape without killing my plants with herbicide.......:rofl:


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

The one you threw away would have done for this, I doubt you would need more than a litre of anything for spraying. And you could probably use the stuff you mentioned earlier. Right into the hole.


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

I still have the cheap one.......just won't fill it to capacity. I mix the chemicals 1gal at a time and store in milk jugs.......after using a permanent marker to identify the contents. The RoundUp I mix in the sprayer......I can get rid of a gallon of that stuff in no time. 

I'll see what the kid brings home. The aerosol can needs no mixing or pumping.......and it sure sprays far......:thumb:


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

LOL back to the aerosol.


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

$3.00 a can......no muss, no fuss. But......they're still there. Might have to try a different brand. Says to wait 24hrs but I'll spray in a few hours and see what happens.


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## MPR (Aug 28, 2010)

Home use "wasp killers" can no longer be formulated with really toxic chemicals like organophosphates, which worked like a charm but were dangerous or even deadly to people and pets. I recall using an old can of wasp spray that was in a shed on my Grandpa's property in Arkansas a few decades ago. It knocked the wasps dead instantly but it almost did me in too. After I sprayed the wasps we had to move over to my Aunt's place for a week before we could return to the cabin. In EMS, I've treated several farm workers for organophosphate poisoning. 

Conversely, the wasp spray I bought the other day for another nest I found bothers the wasps and makes them fly away but doesn't exactly drop them in their tracks. It does allow one to get the nest down though.

Looking at the wasp killer's MSDS, it looks like it's composed mainly of mineral oil and propylene glycol, both of which are non-toxic. The active ingredients are cyhalothrin and prallethrin, which are weak insecticides similar in structure to those found naturally in _Chrysanthemum _flowers. These will probably kill the wasps eventually, though, in my experience, not right away.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

MPR: After reading your post, I ran out to the garage and found that I used a product called Enforcer this spring. It no only killed instantly, but the "corpses" could hardly be recognized since I really sprayed liberally. It was more like I drowned them.


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## MPR (Aug 28, 2010)

Insects "breathe" through holes in their abdomens called spiracles, which lead to tracheal tubes that deliver oxygen directly to the tissues via diffusion. If you coat an insect with enough oil and it can't clean it off fast enough, it's eventually a goner. Some insects are pretty resilient though. When I was putting together an insect collection for my entomology class in grad school I found that you can hardly kill a weevil. You can put them in a jar and fill it with cyanide gas and they will just close their spiracles and wait until you take them out, upon which time they will wake up and merrily crawl away. In order to kill a weevil, I had to gas it and then freeze it in alcohol for a couple of days.


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

I'll be out and about this morning (g-daughter's gymnastics at 9AM) and will look at some wasp killer at Home Depot. The kid went nutso and kept spraying even when the wasps vacated the area. Can't get to the nest......it's inside the block......gotta spray when they show up.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

SABL

I used an electronic bug zapper with a few slices of apple, in the bottom, and took care of them pretty quick. Set it up right next to where they were getting. The smell of the apples got them.

BG


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

That sounds great, BG......:thumb:. Probably work better than the spray I've been using. 

Home Depot carries 3 products but only one was in stock......another $3 can but it had double the active ingredients of the first can. Knocked 'em down good enough to get a direct shot in the missing mortar....I drenched 'em. I'll check for activity in the morning and see how well it worked.


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