# 1st build, just want opinions



## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

So I'm on my first full build, have dredged up a lot of fairly current info here as well as other forums, wanted your opinions on the parts I've put together and see if any of you can suggest any other parts where I can lower cost without losing much if any performance as I will be using this PC for gaming such as star trek online, as well as using the latest 3D rendering in all of my architectural programs. I'm a big multi-tasker so I need something that's going to last me ages before needing an upgrade, and something lightning fast. 

*Other details*: Already own 19" widescreen lcd, full logitect sound system, logitech keyboard and mx darkfield mouse, as well as a copy of vista 32 home premium. So those won't need to be added into any pricing. 

*
Here are my parts*...

Crucial 2GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Desktop Memory Model CT25664BA1339
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148221

Scythe GentleTyphoon D1225C12B3AP-13 120mm Case Fan
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185090

Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 ST3500418AS 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148395

Rosewill 18" Serial ATA II cable with metal latch, Model RC-18"-SA2-90-BK, Black
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119231

COOLMAX 6" Cable Model SATA POWER ADAPTER 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812104652

COOLER MASTER HAF 932 RC-932-KKN1-GP Black Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119160

ASUS P6T Deluxe V2 LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131365

XFX HD-587A-ZNF9 Radeon HD 5870 (Cypress XT) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card w/ATI Eyefinity
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150443

SeaSonic S12D 850 Silver 850W ATX12V V2.3/EPS 12V V2.91 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Active PFC Power Supply 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151083

Intel Core i7-920 Bloomfield 2.66GHz 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115202

Sony Optiarc Black
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827118030

ZALMAN 9500A 92mm 2 Ball CPU Cooler 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118223

Subtotal: $1,663.27

Current Max Budget: $1,600
(Would very much like to get lower than that, but I don't see how that will be possible with an i7 PC with heavy duty graphics card.)

I have another option that's around the $900 range in an i5 that's similar to the $1000 spec posted here: http://www.techsupportforum.com/f25...evised-2010-and-updated-regularly-448272.html

But I was under the assumption that it would not be as upgradable or nearly as powerful. 

I hope someone can give me some advice here, as I'm a college student and don't want to spend anymore than I have to for a fairly high end computer, but I'm all for spending what I can for quality. 

Thanks again ahead of time for any assistance.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

For performance, OCZ-G.Skill-Corsair are better RAM choices.
WD Black series Hdd's have a 32MB Cache and 5 yr. warranty.
Sapphire is a better choice for the 5870 GPU.
I like SeaSonic PSU's but Corsair is a much better bang for buck right now- CORSAIR 850TX $140: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139009

The Intel i5 is my personal choice. Our $1200 build would be a very good option and ave you some money.


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

Hmmm, to make sure I have funding for anything else that pops up, I think I'll go with the $1200 build. But would I still put the more powerful sapphire video card in that build and still gain all of it's power? and do you think I should go ahead and purchase more memory than listed since I can go ahead and bundle it?


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

You could certainly substitute the 5870 for the 5770. The hardware in all of our suggested builds is top quality so that won't be an issue. You will most likely want to substitute the SeaSonic PSU for a Corsair due to the price increase on the SeaSonic.
I'm not clear on the RAM question.


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

What kind of performance difference would I notice between the 5770 and 5870? Since it's a decent price difference.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

Diesel369 said:


> What kind of performance difference would I notice between the 5770 and 5870? Since it's a decent price difference.



I personally dont think you will be getting your money's worth for the extra almost $230.00; especially not when you are using a 19" monitor .... if you were using a 26inch or larger I would say "yes"


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

Ahh, many thanks, I plan to order these parts monday. As stated, my first build, I'm fairly tech savvy so piecing everything together shouldn't take long, but starting from scratch with drivers and what not has me a bit worried, but it's worth it.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

while you are waiting for the big brown truck to pull up

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=computer+building&search_type=&aq=f


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Another reference site for assembly: http://www.hardwarezone.com/articles/view.php?id=1215&cid=19&pg=6
Build on he bench before assembling in the case to be certain all of your hardware is good and to avoid problems.

Set the motherboard on a non conductive surface. The motherboard box is perfect for this. DO NOT PLACE THE MOTHERBOARD ON THE STATIC BAG! It can actually conduct electricity! 
Install the CPU and heat sink. 
Install 1 stick of RAM.
Install the video card and attach the power supply connection(s) to the card if your card needs it.
Connect the monitor to the video card.
Connect the power supply to the motherboard with both the 24pin main ATX Power connection and the separate 4 or 8 pin power connection.
Connect power to the power supply.
Do NOT connect ANYTHING else. Make sure you have the power connector on the CPU fan connected.
Use a small screwdriver to momentarily short the power switch connector on the motherboard. Consult your motherboard manual to find which two pins connect to your case's power switch. Then touch both pins with a screwdriver to complete the circuit and boot the system.

If all is well, it should power up and you should get a display. Then assemble the parts into the case and try again. If the system now fails to boot, you have a short in the case and need to recheck your motherboard standoffs.

If the system does not boot after this process, then you most likely have a faulty component. You'll need to swap parts, start with the power supply, until you determine what is defective.


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

So really quickly before I finalize my order, how much overall am I gaining by going with this:

https://secure.newegg.com/WishList/MySavedWishDetail.aspx?ID=10473394

instead of this:

https://secure.newegg.com/WishList/MySavedWishDetail.aspx?ID=11441211

Somewhat asked me about the performance for dollar difference, since the first is an i7, second is an i5


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

We can't see those links.


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

Ahhh, sorry, here ya go...
*
Extra performance worth the extra money on this:*

COOLER MASTER HAF 932 RC-932-KKN1-GP Black Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119160

ASUS P7P55D-E Pro LGA 1156 Intel P55 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131621

SAPPHIRE 100283-2L Radeon HD 5770 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102864

CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139006

Intel Core i7-860 Lynnfield 2.8GHz 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core Processor
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115214

OCZ Platinum 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model OCZ3P16004GK
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227297

Western Digital Caviar Black WD1001FALS 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136284

ZALMAN 9500A 92mm 2 Ball CPU Cooler
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118223

Subtotal: $1,243.30

*Compared to this*...

Antec Nine Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129021

ASUS P7P55D LGA 1156 Intel P55 ATX Intel Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131404

SAPPHIRE Vapor-X 100283VXL Radeon HD 5770 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102868

CORSAIR CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139005

Intel Core i5-750 Lynnfield 2.66GHz 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core Processor 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115215

CORSAIR XMS3 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMX4GX3M2A1600C9
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145260

Western Digital Caviar Green WD5000AADS 500GB 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Hard Drive -Bare Drive 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136358

Subtotal: $898.92

Because I really don't wanna dish the extra money out if my performance on a 19" wide-screen isn't going to be noticeable running high end games and architectural programs. So is it worth the extra? If so I'm going with quality.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

I prefer the 2nd build.


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

You believe it would be as powerful and as fast at running those programs? or at least close?


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

Tyree said:


> I prefer the 2nd build.





I too would advise the second build, 

if you sat at those two machines you would not be able to tell them apart! guaranteed


the first machine has some fluff and extra features which dont always put meat on the dinner plate if you follow me


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

Hmmm, well I'm following your opinions, you guys know your stuff, so if you say it'll be just as powerful and fast running high end games and revit then I'll go with it. May swap for the other video card though.


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

At stock speeds, you might get a few extra fps with the i7 860 over the i5 750, not almost 350 bucks worth, that's for sure. If you want to spend more, then get the larger psu and an HD 5870 and put those on the second build. That would be roughly the same cost as the first, and have better performance. Or save the cash, and do it as it is now, you would be surprised at the lack of noticable difference when you are using higher end components. I've got a GTX285 and a GTX260, right now the 260 happens to be in the machine, even though it would only take a few minutes to swap the 285 back in, I have bothered. The main game I play right now is Dirt2 and I can't tell the difference between the two cards, so why bother, of course the 285 cost me 250 bucks more, that's the real difference. 
If you feel the system needs a bit more, you get a lot out of overclocking, but that needs to be done properly. It's not a "bash about the bios", changing random settings.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

grimx133 said:


> At stock speeds, you might get a few extra fps with the i7 860 over the i5 750, not almost 350 bucks worth, that's for sure. If you want to spend more, then get the larger psu and an HD 5870 and put those on the second build. That would be roughly the same cost as the first, and have better performance. Or save the cash, and do it as it is now, you would be surprised at the lack of noticable difference when you are using higher end components. I've got a GTX285 and a GTX260, right now the 260 happens to be in the machine, even though it would only take a few minutes to swap the 285 back in, I have bothered. The main game I play right now is Dirt2 and I can't tell the difference between the two cards, so why bother, of course the 285 cost me 250 bucks more, that's the real difference.
> If you feel the system needs a bit more, you get a lot out of overclocking, but that needs to be done properly. It's not a "bash about the bios", changing random settings.





I wish more fellas in the world of computing were as honest about component evaluation as is Grim and some of our other staff members

the computer world is filled with the attitude you have to throw your wallet on the floor to get top performance; that just isnt so :4-thatsba

most often one or two shelves down will run shoulder to shoulder with the top shelf stuff ..........and your wallet lives for another day :wink:


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

So I've got my PC built, typing on it now, updated to win7 ultimate x64, loving it. But I've got 2 problems. 

1.) The cooler I bought http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...Deals-_-na-_-na&AID=10521304&PID=3342876&SID= Doesn't fit on my motherboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131621 the holes don't line up on the mounting brackets. I installed the cooler that came with it, but I've read reviews that the stock cooler sucks... but it's ran nice and cool so far with the cooler master case. Any suggestions as to an attempted modification or should I just send it back to newegg?

2.) While installing my OS, it asked me if I wanted to install on my wd 1tb 7,200rmp or my wd velocoraptor 300gb 10,000rpm, which tells me both are hooked up correctly, so I installed on the faster 300gb. In my control panel it shows both under the hardware listings, but under my computer I only have access to the 300gb and do not get the option to install or use the 1tb. I'm guessing I just didn't do something that I should have, so could anyone lead me in the correct direction?


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

If the 1TB is new, it needs to be initialized in disk management first, then it'll be seen in my computer. Just go to disk management, right click on that drive and run the new partition wizard. Format it either all one partition, or make a smaller one, then go back and do the same again on the unallocated space. The OS drive was formatted during the install process, now the data drive needs to be, as do all new drives.


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

Hmmm, So I was multitasking today fairly moderately, running crysis dx10 on high settings, firefox with around 7 tabs, skype running a video chat, with a few other odds and ins, and suddenly the screen went black with vertical white lines across it for about 15-25 seconds, then the machine re-started. So I ran a computer temp check, and the CPU warning rang showing it around 65c, but it immediently dropped off and started idling between 34c-42c. So given that the stock CPU cooler is on it at this time, although the case has a 220, and 2 120mm fans, I did some google research, and come across the program Prime95 (http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft/) So I downloaded the version for win7ult64, started the test, but immediately my CPU temp gauge I'm running (PC Probe II) rang an alarm and the temp skyrocketed to 80c before I stopped the test myself in fear or melting an expensive component. Can anyone advise?


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

LOL you cant take a car to the races with a stock radiator

any cpu stress testing program will load all cores on that cpu to their 100% max workload

the stock cooler aint up for that kind of service

if you want to do that, then its time for after market cpu cooler

also your woes are compounded by that useless thermal pad on the stock intel heatsink, Intel uses those because the average casual builder applies either too much or too little thermal paste, however the thermal tape or pad as its often called is damn near USELESS


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

Ahhh, just sent the zalman back to newegg today because it didn't fit, guess I'm going to have to buy a replacement. It's beginning to get a little buggy I think. like my keyboard while typing this went off and on... hmmm, odd


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

Diesel369 said:


> Ahhh, just sent the zalman back to newegg today because it didn't fit, guess I'm going to have to buy a replacement. It's beginning to get a little buggy I think. like my keyboard while typing this went off and on... hmmm, odd




*oott*; now thats a weird issue, not heat 

full system specs again please


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

did you get your video cards off the ATI website as just released or did you use the ones on the ati DVD that came with the video card ?


http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownload/Pages/index.aspx


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119160

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131621


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131621

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102864

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139006

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115214

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227297

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136284

+300gb velocoraptor 10,000rpm

It just now started this... I'm very confused. maybe just needs a restart?


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

tell me which verison of windows are you using

did you install the newest motherboard chipset drivers from the asus website

are you using the newest drivers for the ati 5770?


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

before you try another video driver


install this program and use it to remove yoru existign ati video driver then install the new one

http://www.guru3d.com/category/driversweeper/


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

windows 7 ultimate x64

and what program?


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

Diesel369 said:


> windows 7 ultimate x64
> 
> and what program?





http://www.guru3d.com/category/driversweeper/


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

is this the version of video card drivers you are using now ?

http://game.amd.com/us-en/drivers_catalyst.aspx?p=win7/windows-7-64bit


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

Had old video card drivers, getting new ones now, and didn't have success running the programs you linked. and I "think" my asus drivers are up to date


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

ALWAYS be sure to remove the old video card driver package BEFORE installing new drivers (control panel / add remove programs )


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

Did  running ok as of right now, anything else I should try?


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

Diesel369 said:


> Did  running ok as of right now, anything else I should try?





if it aint broke ! YOU KNOW


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

Hmm, now my pc is telling me in the task bar that I need to install a video driver... not sure why


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

re-boot


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

linderman said:


> re-boot




worse case, run the ati installer again


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

so far...so good


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

So I've noticed I'm idling CPU between 37-47C and running a game such as crysis x64 dx10 on very high settlings my CPU is running between 58-71C. This is with the stock i7 CPU fan. I've returned the Zalman that I had ordered which did not fit, and I've been doing a lot of research and it seems the best temp performance CPU fan is called the Iceage boss II, running around $60, but is not sold in the US. So, the top rated and available one seems to be:
Tuniq Tower 120 Extreme
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835154011
$62.00 + $7.87 shipping
Keep in mind I need one to fit an 1156 socket, which is a shortcoming on Newegg, not that many options. Also, how load one runs really isn't a big issue with me.
Sure I would love to find one cheaper, but it seems most "performance" CPU coolers are in this price range. 

Just looking for opinions, suggestions, personal reviews or experiences in the matter, I just want my baby to run really cool under intense loads without costing me anymore than this unless absolutely necessary.

Also I do have a tube of artic 5, does anyone have a suggested link of instructions for correctly applying with a high performance CPU cooler since they have the clip lock brackets that I would think would make it difficult to twist-spread the "pea".

Thanks guys, you've been a huge help in this entire process, and without your help so far, I would have ended up wasting a lot more money and not doing things correctly. Your truly the most knowledgeable group of individuals on the internet when it comes to computers.

Also, anyone here play star trek online? Just an errant thought, I'm still not over the excitement of being able to play new computer games again...


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

CoolerMaster's Hyper 212+ isn't a bad hsf, rated quite well, but I found it a little loud when the fan ramped up. One good point is that it comes a second fan mount for a push/pull setup, great if you have spare fans. Though it's best to use matching fans, if different, one can overpower the other and do some odd things to the airflow through the fins, that can have a nasty effect on cooling performance. With mismatched fans, I would put the more powerful one in the push position. You might like it fine using just the stock fan, me I like to run relatively quiet. The unit also mounts with a backplate, so it's very solid, much better than pushpins.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065 

For an 1156 hsf, the cm hyper 212+ is as good as it gets, for a low cost solution. It cools as well as units that are double it's cost. I'd probably still be using it, except the Noctua NH-D14 came out in November, awesome hsf, but very pricey and very big.


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

Hmmm, I like this option, but after checking prices, the cooler you listed:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065
Along with 2 fans to ensure identical functioning, high performance, with the added bonus of silence:
2x http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103063
Total after shipping: $62.03

Compared to the Tuniq:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835154011
Total after shipping: $70.86

Given the minor price difference between the 2 under this configuration, would you still consider it better to go with the cooler master over the tuniq? Given this would allow 2 fans on the cm, but more overall surface area for dispersal on the Tuniq. With such a mynute difference in price, my focus is performance.


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

I'd probably go with the Tuniq. Very good heatsinks. Either way you'll get decent performance, depends on how irritating you'd find the CM, for 35 bucks, the cost per degree of temp lowered from the stock, is less than the majority of coolers out there. You may be fine with it, for me when I can hear the cpu fan kick in, it's too loud, may not be as big a deal for you. It's definitely the "bang for a buck" cooler. 
Not that I ever go that route, but that's just me. The NH-D14 I'm currently using is a hundred bucks at newegg, and in a few weeks it goes into one of my other machines.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608018


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

What performance difference would I actually notice between your NH-D14 and the Tuniq on a mid range overclock on my i7-860? Enough to spend the extra money?


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

Probably only a few degrees. Mine stays around 55C. for a load temperature when running prime 95, and from 3.5Ghz. to 4Ghz., seems like the load temp is always within a degree of that. The idle temps are nice too, 30ish, sometimes less. There's more than just the heatsink, things like overall case airflow, room temperature, etc. With a mid range OC, you would be fine with the Tyniq, or the CM, for that matter.


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

Found the NH-D14 for 85 + 8 shipping, I suppose that makes it the one to go with in this case


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

It's good, if you don't mind spending the cash, but the cost per degree lowered is one of the highest for air coolers. 
Check first to see if it's compatable, when I had it in an Antec 1200, I had to remove the side fan, it got in the way of the heatsink. With the HAF932, it was fine. 
There can also be issues with tall ram, it extends way over the memory, when using an east-west mount. Of course, with a north-south (top exhaust case only) the one fan almost hits the video card. So, mounting can be a bit awkward. Noctua has a motherboard compatability list. They also have a ram list there somewhere too.
http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=compatibility_gen&products_id=34&lng=en


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

So I've just finished installing my new cpu cooler, after having to slightly modify the mounting bracket with a drillbit, and after stopping the bleeding a few times, my cpu is now running cooler, but not as cool as expected, all I have currently on info is my bios showing idle around 23c. I'm running 2x 90cfm fans, but I think I know where the extra cooling has gone... 

The fans power plug is for 3 pins, while my motherboard's cpu fan slots take 4 pins, so I used the adapters provided that simply turn it into a plug for my power supply, which is where it's plugged in now, which of course doesn't allow the motherboard to control it's individual temp as it should. 

So, can anyone give advice on either where to find an adapter for 3pin to 4pin (if it exists), or whether I simply need to get a separate fan controller. 

Btw, I called my local radioshack (which is the only tech place I have locally), and they said they didn't have one (although it didn't really sound like she knew what she was talking about to be honest)


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## greenbrucelee (Apr 24, 2007)

23c idle is good

I have a tuniq tower with my e8400 clocked to 4GHz and my full load temps never get above 52 (with the TJ max set to 100 in real temp).


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

Diesel369 said:


> So I've just finished installing my new cpu cooler, after having to slightly modify the mounting bracket with a drillbit, and after stopping the bleeding a few times, my cpu is now running cooler, but not as cool as expected, all I have currently on info is my bios showing idle around 23c. I'm running 2x 90cfm fans, but I think I know where the extra cooling has gone...
> 
> The fans power plug is for 3 pins, while my motherboard's cpu fan slots take 4 pins, so I used the adapters provided that simply turn it into a plug for my power supply, which is where it's plugged in now, which of course doesn't allow the motherboard to control it's individual temp as it should.
> 
> ...




the way you have now gives you the best cooling; the fan will run at max speed all the time ........if you want the fan to slow down when the system doesnt need max fan speed, then you will need to connect the fan to the motherboard hearder

the 3 pin fan connector will still sit atop of your 4 pin motherboard fan header / just one pin gets missed which isnt any biggie

some bios actually have an adjustment in the bios to allow for that, you would need to read your motherboard manual in the cpu / heatsink section to determine if your bios requires a certain setting when using a 3 pin cpu fan ?


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

23C at idle is an excellent temp


a temp of under 55C is excellent when running OCCT for 30 minutes


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

Ahh, I was curious about cutting off the little plastic guides so that it would fit atop it, but honestly I would rather them run full speed all the time since they are quiet anyway. But maybe the thermal paste just needs time to set (so I've heard) before getting best temps.

The reason I say that is because this cooler specs at around 15-16c idle with 80cfm fans installed, and I'm using 90 cfm, but of course my location is probably the cause for the difference, I live in northwest florida, it's hot and humid, and although I have central heating air, my pc room is the hottest in the house, partially in cause by a reptile heating lamp in one corner, but I keep the ceiling fan on high, and a portable fan on high facing the pc at all times... so I'm trying the best I can for the coolest temps. (my dad swears we could invent a way to use a small compressor with r134a coolant and an evaporator, but my research on it shows a lot of failed attempts, and the only one I've seen that was on the market is discontinued and still ran around $800... but... it did report temps below -45c.... lol, wow...


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

I dont see how an air cooler could possibly get you any better than the room air temp ?

20C = 68 degrees ??????

I personally run my cpu fans at 100% all the time / same with my 120mm case fans x 2

I would rather have noisey fans than burned up parts........thats why they make head phones and music LOL


I have seen a fair number of those refrig units attempted, most were either very high maintenance, or trouble (condensation)

I have found the best practical way is simple room AC and keep the room at 65F with the door shut .......of course you are gonna pay big $$$$$ for that perk


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## grimx133 (Jan 15, 2008)

The only types of cooling that can go below room temperature involve external chilling. Something like a TEC (Thermo-Electric Cooler), phase change cooling, LN2 or dry ice. Even water cooling will not go below the room temp, unless the liquid in the loop is somehow cooled additionally. There's also the temp inside the case will always be a bit higher than the room temperature. 23C. at idle is excellent, you can't ask for better on air.


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

Well it's been a while, everything was going just fine with the build, I purchased a laptop for my daily browsing needs so that I could decrease the workflow of my desktop. I went over a month without turning it on as I didn't need it's services, but yesterday I started to power it up to work on a project, and here's what happened...

As I press the on/off button, all internal lights flash on, all fans begin to spin (including PSU fan), and then it immediately shuts off before a second has ticked off the clock. No beeping, nothing. Before and after this the Mobo light stays green, but the lights and fans will not even repeat the same process before resetting the power. 

I of course opened it up right away and checked every connection, which of course all are still solid as the system has not moved. 

I have attempted googling the issue, but the most similar problem is people's pc's staying on 3-5 seconds before cutting off, in which case the solution seems to be a faulting on/off switch. 

While it's true I have not checked the switch thus far, I wanted the opinion and experience of the experts here before I waste time guessing, as my fears include a bad PSU or Mobo, which I'm not entirely sure of the newegg warranty. And Since this can't be a cooling issue with a cold start, I tend to believe the CPU is still good (for God's sake I hope so...)

So any help anyone here can relay, I would again be eternally greatful, as I simply refuse to take it to a pc repair shop (I built the **** thing, and I can't allow failure after successful functioning for so long.

P.S. Another noteworthy happening "before" it's month or so of being off, for a few weeks I had the strangest account of the computer completely freezing and needing manual restart, I checked the cooling, and it was running cold, I ran virus scans but came up with nothing, then it just as randomly stopped, and it ran fine for weeks before it's vacation. So I'm unsure if this connects in any way, but I wanted all the evidence on the table.

Thanks


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

please give us your full system specs

in the mean time you might want to consider removing all computer guts from the case and trying this (i think you have a motherboard short or bad psu)

http://www.techsupportforum.com/f255/how-to-bench-test-your-system-171424.html

dont skip or abbreviate any steps (except you wont need to remove the cpu or heatsink)


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## Diesel369 (Feb 13, 2010)

It would be the same specs as the final project listed in this thread. I'm hoping that both the mobo and pcu are still under warranty through newegg.


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## linderman (May 20, 2005)

Diesel369 said:


> It would be the same specs as the final project listed in this thread. I'm hoping that both the mobo and pcu are still under warranty through newegg.




cant expect all members to read thru 3 pages of forum replies to help you with your problem; thats why its best to list all ssytem specs right here where you are having the trouble so you can get more opinions than just mine

the Seasonic 850 is an awesome unit doubt very much thats your trouble

could be a motherboard 

have you tried starting up with no hard drives powered and only one stick of memory installed / if no joy try another single stick 

check your motherboard manual to see which slot you must use for single stick use


VERY important / remove the motherboard and run it on top of the mobo box like shown in the "bench test"

all your parts are warranteed by the original manufacturer unless you paid for neweggs extended warranty?


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## walkitout (Dec 30, 2008)

I had this problem, not sure if it is the same but it might be that your motherboard is touched the case somehow. If so then worst case you might need a new mobo.


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