# 93 Camry vibrarates violently



## puntank4200 (Jan 8, 2006)

My 93 Camry le vibrates at highway speeds. I had the tires replaces, balanced, rotated, and had two alignments. Still vibrates like crazy at 50 mph. *Something to note, when the car to shake at high speeds I let of the gas and it stops, once I gas again it vibrates?* Is this a motor mount issue, I looked at the engine cradle mounts under the driverside and passenger side door and they look ok but they are both covered in oil. Recently I was driving on the highway and it started doing it usual vibrating, then the car pulls hard to the right and vibrates and makes a clunking sound, like something broke loose. Could this be a CV joint issue also?


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## oldmn (Oct 16, 2005)

This can be cause by a bad hob assembly (wheel bearings) when the tire is off the ground grab the top and bottom of the tire and try to rock the wheel if there is any play the hob it is bad.
CV joint or trapezoid (Opposite end of the half shaft from the CV joint). Again with the wheel off the ground and the car in park or gear hold the half shaft and rotate the wheel back and forth to see if there is excessive play in the CV same for the trapezoid.
Bad CV's will also pop when making a turn.


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## afgunboi (Jul 18, 2007)

puntank4200 said:


> My 93 Camry le vibrates at highway speeds. I had the tires replaces, balanced, rotated, and had two alignments. Still vibrates like crazy at 50 mph. *Something to note, when the car to shake at high speeds I let of the gas and it stops, once I gas again it vibrates?* Is this a motor mount issue, I looked at the engine cradle mounts under the driverside and passenger side door and they look ok but they are both covered in oil. Recently I was driving on the highway and it started doing it usual vibrating, then the car pulls hard to the right and vibrates and makes a clunking sound, like something broke loose. Could this be a CV joint issue also?


yee ur front hubs are loose, its very dangerous.. get that checked asap...


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## qldit (Mar 26, 2007)

Good Evening puntank4200, this problem can be caused by the inner joint on the left hand drive shaft. From memory Toyota call it a "tripod joint" it is similar in operation to a universal joint and the drive shaft from the constant velocity joint mounts in it.

It gives the effect of vibration at higher speed and is affected by power being applied.

It is often made worse by worn CV joints but these usually cause clicking sounds when turning in full lock.

Some of those engines need tappet cover oil seal replacement because the oil goes everywhere, check where the leakage is originating.

Check the rubber boots on the drive joints, any damaged ones give a further indication of possible problems source.

Worn tires on those vehicles cause wierd effects, the wheel alignment is quite critical, all four wheels need to be done to often have them drive properly.

As you have found they are hard on tires and if the tires rear improperly can cause a chain of problems that need both front tires to be renewed together.

Others will have different ideas.

Cheers, qldit.


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## Zeromus-X (Oct 30, 2007)

Bumping an old thread to see what the resolution to this was, if any. I'm having an almost identical problem with my 2003 Pontiac Vibe (actually manufactured by Toyota, same as a Matrix). At about 50-55 and up, it starts to shake rather violently. I've had the CV joints/etc checked, the tires checked. As soon as I let off the gas, the shaking immediately stops, which tells me it isn't a vibration due to tires or CV joints.

Interestingly enough when I pulled into my driveway a few minutes ago, after driving the car on a 16-hour trip (the problem started about four hours into it, and progressively got worse, but it wasn't like I could really turn around, had to make it there and back for business and had a VERY small time scale), it won't start -- it just clicks, like it's got a dead battery, even though all the gauges light up just fine. I don't know if this is a related problem or if the shaking over the course of sixteen hours knocked something big off.

Either way I'm very curious to know what fixed your problem.


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## qldit (Mar 26, 2007)

Good Morning Zeromus-X, I am not familiar with that vehicle, but am with Camrys.

Your problem mentioning that the vibration ceases when the throttle is released at speed kind of still allows the possibility of the drive CV joints having a problem, what happens is that they simply relocate their position and generally it is an intermittent kind of vibration that comes and can be altered in effect by altering throttle.

The situation where you explain that the problem more or less completely disappeared by reducing throttle and that the drive joints all checked OK, could infer a more problematic defect, especially when you mention the starter will not function. 

It is not uncommon for a battery to die after a long run, quite often they simply lose all their fluid, I would suggest a battery inspection and test at least.

Although you mention the starter is clicking, it is possible that the starter solenoid has a problem, can you tell if the starter is actually whirring?

The action of the solenoid pulls the drive cog and meshes into the ring-gear before rotation happens which is allowed by the solenoid reacing it's limit and operating a heavy contactor to allow power to the motor.

The reason I am asking is that there is a remote possibility the actual engine ring-gear plate (which the starter engages) may have sheared or come adrift, this is a remote possibility but can happen in rare circumstances. it can also cause severe vibration as in out of balance, but that vibration would have been present dependent on engine speed in any gear etc.
It is also possible it may have shrapnel interfering with the starter engagement and not allowing it to complete it's action to allow the starter to operate and rotate.

I would suggest the first thing to do would be check the battery.
Then check (using a meter or test lamp) if there is power on the starter major terminal when the start is attempted. If power is lost at that point, check the fusible link which should be located near the battery post in the main line to the starter.

If power remains at the starter and the solenoid clicks normally, without dimming the headlights excessively (visual indicator) expect to have to replace the starter motor.

If the starter motor is removed, you can check the ring-gear (toothed drive on back of engine) for condition and looseness.

BTW, in so many cases CV joints appear OK, but have inherently failed.
Check also the Tripod joint bearing and it's mount for security and function, it is the one similar to a CV joint further inboard on the long drive axle side.

I don't like the sound of your symptom! Good Luck!

Cheers, qldit.


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## Zeromus-X (Oct 30, 2007)

Followup, kinda:

Appears to be the drive axle. Battery was just dead and it was a coincidence. All mechanics who have looked at it have said it's not a safety issue, just annoying as all hell. Drive axle is a dealer-only part on this car and the part alone appears to run $800+. In other words I'm gonna deal with it for a while.


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## qldit (Mar 26, 2007)

Good Morning Zeromus-X, it is not a good idea to allow that kind of vibration to persist, what is liable to happen is that it may damage the inner transmission bearing and oil seal, and thus will then cause transmission fluid loss. 
This will then possibly require a transmission stripdown and repair.

I would suggest biting the bullet and addressing the problem relatively rapidly.

I would suspect it is probably at least one CV joint.

The short side one most likely, but that is a guess.

See if their is any "click" happening when drive is selected, that may give a clue as to which side.

Cheers, qldit.


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## Midnight Tech (Dec 31, 2001)

Zeromus, is there any way you can post a pic of that axle so we can be sure we're all talking about the same thing?


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## qldit (Mar 26, 2007)

Oh, by the way Zeromus-X, I usually obtain re-conditioned CV joints here, they are only a fraction of the cost of new items, the journals are reground and the balls replaced and re-lubed and new covers fitted.

Just make a few enquiries at your location, there would likely be a reco service available for these items.

It is a fair job fitting them as well, requires a couple of special tools to dismantle the front suspension and the brakes need to be disconnected as well to get them apart to allow the components to be withdrawn and refitted.

Needs a wheel alignment afterwards. (if that is the actual problem)

Cheers, qldit.


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## Zeromus-X (Oct 30, 2007)

I'll try and get some pictures, but we've gone over the CV joints numerous times at three different places, and the best anyone can say is that it's the drive axle. I'm still "tolerating" it since I can't afford a near-$1000 fix, and nothing else has gone wrong... but I'll definitely look into your suggestions.

Thanks!


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## IPlaM4U (Feb 15, 2008)

Hi, I have a 93 Camry, and it has 265+K miles on it, and I just refuse to let it go - it is still a great car. Recently, $90 to weld the factory exhaust pipe back to the muffler, and behind the converter, $300 Distributor rotor, plug wires, cap, $120 front and rear brakes / rotors, $1200 last spring for struts, sway bars, etc, tires, battery......you get the idea. 
Anyway, I am having the same vibration issue, and I recently had the brakes done, at my school, I work at a high school career / tech center. When I got the car back, I was told the cv joint was bad, and the boot was ripped. I let it go, and finally the vibrations got to be too much, and I am taking it in tomorrow. Here are the symptoms on mine - sounds like yours - Noticed a little shaking at first, no noticeable noises. Then the wife was driving it and said it started shaking violently. I forgot about the cv joint. When I drove it, I noticed now a clicking when I turn, and an occasional tug to the left as if it were in a particular place on the wheel. I am just going to bite the bullet whatever it may be. I'll post with the damage. [/FONT][/FONT]


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## qldit (Mar 26, 2007)

Good Evening IPlaM4U, in the majority of these front wheel drives when they get a bit of mileage up it is common for the balls in the CV joints to be affected (chipped) and allow the two sections to run in an eccentric condition, sometimes this is erratic, often it is affected by throttle variations, but the clicking is the give-away, this is supported by a damaged rubber boot.

CV joint replacement time!

Very often it is difficult to actually confirm a CV joint is bad because a lost motion check may not be apparent, this is often dependent on the position of the actual balls in the joint at that particular time, they continuously migrate position, but under drive conditions a favourable bad spot may be present more often.

If this problem is not relatively promptly addressed the transmission oil seal can be damaged and transmission fluid loss can happen or other transmission problems can appear.

If the wheel bearings, disks, and wheel / tires are secure and OK, there is not much else that can cause this kind of vibration.

Invariably if you replace only one CV joint it will be the wrong one!!

others will have different ideas.

Cheers, qldit.


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## cardoc (Apr 15, 2007)

Oh yeah. Diffently sounds like a drive axle problem,probably a bad inner joint.also watch out for a bad carrier bearing on the right axle some Camrys use.
By the way you should be able to get a replacement axle for less the $100.
Average cost to replace in (my) shop less then $300 parts and labor.


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## qldit (Mar 26, 2007)

Good Morning Gentlemen, that is interesting cardoc, are your Camry long axles on the "Right" side? Ours here are on the left!
And yes I have also had to replace that intermediate bearing. (tripod)

They certainly can be a pain to troubleshoot.

I have one here at present with the short axle CV shot, (right side) nuisance job to tension the wheel nut, ruined a half inch extension doing the last one. 
You might say I "screwed it up"!

Need a three quarter socket set, maybe one of these days!

These front wheel drive machines are great machines for causing pain!!

Cheers, qldit.


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## cardoc (Apr 15, 2007)

Good morning
Yes they can be a pain to diagnose.Been there/done that.Sometimes you can't tell if the inner joint is bad untill disassembly.While on a lift we've tried to stop one axle at a time by locking one brake and watching for vib at simulated road speed but this can be tricky.
And air tools are a great investment. Good luck.


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