# Plumbing problem expert advice needed



## wilsonkori (Nov 11, 2008)

A friend of mine called me last night to see if my handyman knowledge could fix his leaky pipe.

Here's the problem. Under his floor are the 28mm copper pipes for the heating boiler. At one place there are 90 degree soldered elbows. The pipes run almost touching each other. At this bend the inside pipe elbow is leaking so bad that the water drains out of the system. So how do you fic that joint when all the pipes are so close and there is little flexibility in the pipework to replace anything?
Any ideas? Perhaps some sort of sealing putty?


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## bruiser (Jul 30, 2005)

There is some sealing "putty" available. Look for Pow-R-Wrap and see if it looks like it will work.


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## carsey (Aug 19, 2006)

Only way I can think of is to re-solder the 90degree elbow on the pipe.


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## DAVIS55 (Nov 12, 2008)

I tried an epoxy leak sealing putty in a similar circumstance but it was no good, it may have reduced the leak but the boiler still lost pressure within a few days. 
Do they do 28mm push fit joints ? 
I agree with ariba10, cut back so you have room and replace the section, thats exactly what I ended up doing with my leak which was in 22mm copper pipes (I used pushfit but it was tricky to wedge it all back in, due to pipes coming off there wasnt much lateral movement in the pipes available).
You may have to avoid soldering (pushfit or compression instead) the replacement pipe back in if there are any water drips present in the pipework. It usually stops the pipe getting hot enough in my experience.
Oh, the circular cutters are good but if the pipes are close together then you probably can't get a full circle on the cutter - hence you may need to use hacksaw instead - just try to get a straight cut through.
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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Before I would try any type of putty, I would try a narrow strip of neoprene and a hose clamp. Wrap the joint with the neoprene ( a heater hose section which has been split lengthwise) and secure in place with the hose clamp.... like a common automotive application. Not the best way to do a fix but it might do the trick.

The proper way is to do as Carsey recommended... but unless you are adept at "sweating" pipes you could dig yourself a deeper hole.... and completely de-solder the joint. Also, like Davis55 stated, if there is even a drop of water in the area of the joint you will not get the heat required to get the solder to melt..... let alone to get it to flow into the joint. 

With any luck, the nonleaking pipe will still contain some water and there is little chance of de-soldering that fitting and the leaking side will be empty. If the leaking side is not empty, you may be able to disconnect it downstream of the fitting and allow it to drain so you can resolder the leak.

Good luck,
SABL


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## Tumbleweed36 (May 14, 2005)

Quite honestly, any quick fix is a real gamble. I predict with the temporary fix you will be right back where you are now in just a few weeks. The wonderful push joints most likely won't work here because of the limited space you have and in addition, having to go to the elbow to attach the push joint.

I am with Carsey on this one, get the solder gun out and take it off and redo it. Pex is not an option (although very easy) because you can't get the crimp tool down in that area.

If this were mine, I would put a vice grip on the 90 degree joint that is leading, take a torch (with a very limited spread flame) and heat that 90 degree joint and start moving it slightly side to side while it is heated, then pull at the same time and slip it out when the solder is melted. Then use some emery cloth to resand (put it underneath and pull it back and forth) the receiving pipe and clean that joint and make sure it is dry. Put some flux on there, reheat the 90 degree joint with solder at the joint area and it should go on there. I doubt even if close if you will dislodge the other joint, but if you do, it will reseal when cooled. BTW, if the pipe comes up through the floor, you might be wise to put the pipe that comes up through on the elbow before you put it back. 

Another thought, if the pressure is out of there, you are still going to have some water moisture in that pipe (since it is down low) which can keep them from sealing if soldered. If that is the case, let it drain all the water out and when you get most of it done, put a bread plug in the pipe before the joint area and that will keep it dry until you get it soldered. When you turn on the line, the bread will disintegrate and flush out of the line with the water.

Been there and done that one a few times. My son called me one night about 8:00 p.m. and had a bad leak that was similar in a setting that was just about like yours. 

He called a plumber who told him it was impossible to do unless he took out part of the floor. Well, the estimate was $900 for tearing out part of the floor, repairing the joint and repairing the floor he had to take out. (he didn't have that kind of money since he was just starting his family) My son lived about 100 miles away and this was in early evening. Being a good dad, I jumped in my car with all my tools and away we went. When we got there, repaired it similar to what I explained above, took about thirty minutes...soldered it up, drove back home and the cost to him was nothing. Darn thing never leaked again.


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## pazlio (Jun 18, 2009)

It’s not a gamble if your solder it when it sets it will form a perfect water tight seal. as well as being a really cheap repair it is a guaranteed fix as threes not really much that can go wrong and the best thing about it is that anyone can do it (kids in school do it at the age of 12-13) just need to have a steady hand and even out the solder the soldering irons are cheap as well so its sort of a nice little learning experience and beneficial as you do not have to spend loads on a plumber or handyman.
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## johnwill (Sep 26, 2002)

Soldering irons? You need a torch for copper pipe! As mentioned, this should be a pretty easy repair.


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