# Toilet paper holder



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

I'm looking to mount a toilet paper hanger to a newly tiled washroom. However, I do not wish to make any holes in the ceramic. Can someone suggest me various mounting methods to pick from that do not require drilling?

Thanks.


----------



## oscer1 (Jan 27, 2010)

well their is double sided tape but that probably wont hold for to long. do you want it to be removed later on or not?


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

They do make toilet paper holders that are on a stand. 

In my bathroom, I mounted a toilet paper holder is on the sink cabinet. Nice simple chrome one.

BG


----------



## Old Rich (May 31, 2007)

Epoxy?


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Epoxy is too slow in setting. Doing a good surface prep would destroy the tiles.

BG


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

You can always do what is done in my house.......put the roll of TP on top of the tank or the counter-top.....and wait til it gets knocked into the toilet.....:banghead:. I've got holders mounted on the sides of the vanity cabinets but are only used when I spot the paper and put it where it belongs....:thumb:. 

They do make 'no drill' paper holders but they are rather pricey. A free-standing holder is also $$$.

Might as well drill the tiles and get it over with. Single point will be the best bet with the least amount of drilling required......grout joints work fine for drilling. If you have a vanity cabinet near the toilet, use that to mount the holder and forget the tile. 

Without seeing the actual situation, it's hard to give advice.


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

oscer, it's not that it needs to be removed but just that I'm not experiences with drilling into tile and do not want to risk ruining a newly tiled washroom.



> They do make toilet paper holders that are on a stand.


Yes, I've seen those. But the problem is that I have a very very small bathroom and it would be too crowded for that. 

SABL, haha yes now thats what we do; we put the roll on the tank. I've knocked it into the bowl twice already. Not pleasant if you've already...gone haha



> They do make 'no drill' paper holders but they are rather pricey. A free-standing holder is also $$$.


Yes and yes. I've taken note of that. I just bought a tension rod for racks and it was 42$, and it's not even straight. It looks like it's curved from so much tension. I even tried removing one of the pipes for a shorter length which would equal less tension but no luck.

I'll pass on the drilling. Maybe if someone helps me. Because I'm a dummy in that area.



> If you have a vanity cabinet near the toilet, use that to mount the holder and forget the tile.


I thought about that but it would always get in the way of the 'seater', especially in such a tiny washroom. 



> Without seeing the actual situation, it's hard to give advice.


I wanted to install the holder on the wall right in front of the seat (that's where it was before the remodelling).


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Tight but not impossible. I'd mount the holder on the vanity and keep it high. My situation is not far off from what you have.....the vanity mounted holder works just fine. Not everyone in this house is on the slender side....still works fine. The way you want to mount the holder is a 'reach across'....last resort IMO. You have to consider the people exiting the tub/shower that can drench the paper......not good.


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

> You have to consider the people exiting the tub/shower that can drench the paper......not good.


very good point

so even if I could do the tile side, you say the vanity side would be smarter? ill try looking for a hanger that goes with my toilet.


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

I still say a free standing holder. Bases are probably 8-10 inches round. Move it out of the way for when you use the tub.

Got to say I have never seen that color on toilet / tub. 

BG


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

BG, I appreciate your suggestion but I just don't think it would work; it's already too small as it is and the last thing I need is more things on the ground reducing leg room. I already had to remove a small garbage can that was in the corner. It my look like it would work but when you're inside the washroom, you get a whole other feeling for how tiny it is.



> Got to say I have never seen that color on toilet / tub.


It's either been painted over or very old. Probably the latter since this house was built in 1978.


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

How about a recessed toilet paper holder mounted in the side of the cabinet ?

https://www.google.com/#q=recessed+toilet+paper+holder&safe=off

BG


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

BG and SABL, I need to scrap the idea of the holder on the cabinet. I had a sit and noticed that the vanity is so short that my shoulder surpassed the edge of the counter-top while seated. there's literally no way I'd be able to sit with the holder there, let alone reach for it.

I'll have to find some videos on how to drill into tile. Either way, I have a box load of spare tiles for that washroom if anything goes wrong.


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Here is one of many you can find:

How to Drill a Hole in a Tile - TOO EASY! - YouTube

Depending on the type of tile, it does take awhile

BG


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Just an FYI is all. Mine too is well below my shoulder. My paper holder is on the cabinet, no problems. My cabinet base is 9 inches from my toilet base, and no problem.

I am not a big guy, plus I have an ADA toilet.

BG


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

OK will do. I'll post back if I need more help. Thanks BG.


----------



## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

Recessed towards the front/top of the vanity is the best spot to protect the paper from getting soaked by bathers. If it must go on the opposite wall, a 1/4" masonry bit and plastic anchor kit would be all it takes to mount it. Drilling tile is very easy with a good bit. Take your time laying out the holes, and it'll be solid.


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

As I meantionned, I tried sitting on the toilet and my torso covers where the holder would go if I would put it in the vanity. It's like a midget washroom lol


----------



## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

Then the wall it is! :grin:

Another tip for drilling the tile. You don't need to put a lot of pressure behind the drill. Make sure the drill and bit are perpendicular to the plane of the wall. It'll take a little force to get it started quickly so the bit doesn't walk all over, but as soon as you chip the glazing, relax and let the bit do the cutting. Pushing too hard is a sure way to crack the entire tile. Even then, they're pretty easy to replace if you had too.

If you really wanted to, you could recess a holder in the tile wall. It's never too late. Layout the rough opening on the wall, drill a bunch of holes inside the perimeter line, knock out the hole, and mount. That might help get it out of the way a bit, and help keep it dry.


----------



## wickedfaery (Nov 24, 2013)

If you do put it on the wall, that seems like SUCH a far reach! A whole tub length away it looks like. Some people might have to get up from the toilet to reach it. I'm sure maybe you thought of putting it inside the cabinet on the cabinet door. you wouldn't have to drill, you could use some type of glue and it would be out of the way from getting wet. seems like a lot less of a reach to just open the cabinet door. just might take getting use to. just a suggestion


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

> I'm sure maybe you thought of putting it inside the cabinet on the cabinet door.


On the actual door? lmao 

And yeah, the tile may be a bit far but that's where it was initially before the renovations were done. I don't know anymore lol


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

I still say a free standing. You can move it out of the way when using the tub.

BG


----------



## wickedfaery (Nov 24, 2013)

I know it might sound silly...but i know alot of people that have different things attached to the inside of cabinet doors like in the kitchen under the sink. Like a paper towel holder. And that is similar to toilet paper holder. or a metal rack where you can store your aluminum foil or plastic wrap. you could just reach right there and open the cabinet and there's your TP! :grin: Close to the toilet and out of your way. I think the free standing is a good idea too..but i can understand how small some bathrooms are. I hope you figure it all out and you are pleased. Must be frustrating..


----------



## WereBo (Apr 5, 2008)

Just don't get carried away with them..... :grin:


----------



## wickedfaery (Nov 24, 2013)

LMAO!!! WOW!! They must be VERY lazy and do not want to come back for months to change the toilet paper!! ahaha!!


----------



## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

There are stick and lock Amazon.com: Croydex twist and lock toilet roll holder


----------



## wickedfaery (Nov 24, 2013)

Oh very cool joeten!!


----------



## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

The question was for non drilling that should fit the bill lol


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Hmm, I think I'll just drill. I don't have much faith in those sticky ones, always falling off etc. Just trying to find a nice inexpensive one on sale. I've been told Moen is a good brand for washroom accessories.


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Moen is a good product.

BG


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

What should I be looking to spend for a toilet paper holder? I tend to spend too much on little things when I really want them so I'd just like a suggestion from experience in home renovation (e.g. anything over 30$ and you're being taken for a fool)....


----------



## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

You can find cheaper looking around but here is 1 Moen DN8408CH Inspirations Paper Holder, Chrome - Amazon.com


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Darn, I always find such great deals on Amazon.ca but the shipping and handling fees always make the total price add up to the same it would cost in stores. What a bummer. Same for buying pc parts online, especially on Newegg. So frustrating.


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Found one for 12$ shipping included: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000SQS6L6/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Do I need special ceramic anchors or can I use the drywall anchors I have? I also have masonry bits already so that's taken care of, I just hope the instructions tell me which size bit to use in accordance with the anchor size.


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

What kind of DW anchors do you have?? Can't use the screw in type on ceramic.....needs to be tapered (straight will work in a pinch).

See what type of anchors come with the holder.


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Can you link me to an anchor for ceramic and I'll look to see if I have it?


----------



## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

In the above pic I like to use the yellow, grey(lower left), or blue type. The shouldered ends keep them from pushing into the wall. The shoulder may leave the anchor a little proud(sticking out from the tile surface), but most bathroom accessories will cover up any small gaps when tightened to their mounting bases. The widest point of your bit should be equal to the diameter of the anchor slightly below the shoulder. The anchor should push into the drilled hole with some slight resistance. When the screw is installed through the accessory mounting base and into the anchor, the anchor will expand and conform to the drilled hole. The friction of that mechanical connection is what resists the tensile load of pulling the paper off, and keeps the holder from hitting the floor.


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

> The widest point of your bit should be equal to the diameter of the anchor slightly below the shoulder.


BINGO. That's what I've been wanting to know for some time.


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Nice pic, sparky......:thumb: 

I've used many of the blue ones (been around for ages) and the grey one to the left is what is commonly sent with most bath accessories today. 

The one on the upper left is made of lead and is not for DW.....that one is a masonry anchor. 

**In my career I carried a small coil of 12ga THWN (or similar stranded wire) for use as an anchor in concrete. Drill a 3/16" hole, push the wire in and 'mark' it with my fingers, pull out far enough to cut with lineman pliers (cut it just long enough to be in the concrete only), push in with remaining coil of wire, and run a coarse DW screw in the hole. No need to remove the piece you're installing to drive in an anchor......and is much cheaper......:laugh:. If I needed to use 2 pcs of wire in the same hole.....so what?? 

**Does not apply in this case.....just something sparky might appreciate....:grin:


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

Thankfully I found my dad's old masonry bit in the garage. Made everything go smooth. Dipped the bit in water ever 20-30 seconds of drilling and used tape to stabilize the crease and I was under way. Thanks guys.

Edit: The mounting screws and anchors were included (2 plastic grey ones).


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Nice job. When using masonry bits don't run the drill real fast, ruins bits because of the heat.

BG


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

OK. But wouldn't running it slowly make the job longer and increase the odds of it heating up?


----------



## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

No higher speed builds the heat more quickly,once through the glaze it can speed up a bit


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

On tile I just use medium speed, medium pressure. Bits will get a little hot , but the hotter they get the quicker they dull. They make variable speed drills for a reason.

When I have to drill into tile, I try to go in a mortar joint, the tile is a little thinner there.

BG


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

> When I have to drill into tile, I try to go in a mortar joint, the tile is a little thinner there.


I was going to do that but if you scrap the job, you need to replace two tiles instead of the one tile I would have had to replace if my job went bad.

Edit: And I don't think my drill has those fancy settings. It only has the option for drill and hammer. I kept it on drill for the job. It's a wired drill so I might ask for a better one for Christmas :grin:. Any suggestions?


----------



## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Drilling into tile is risky, they can break.

Most drills with a hammer setting can be really nice to have, they are great in concrete. I have 2 ½ drills, both corded.

You want a corded drill or a battery powered drill? It is not hard to spend $80-100 USD for a drill. I like a cordless drill for small jobs.

BG


----------



## Vegassparky (Nov 24, 2013)

SABL said:


> **In my career I carried a small coil of 12ga THWN (or similar stranded wire) for use as an anchor in concrete. Drill a 3/16" hole, push the wire in and 'mark' it with my fingers, pull out far enough to cut with lineman pliers (cut it just long enough to be in the concrete only), push in with remaining coil of wire, and run a coarse DW screw in the hole. No need to remove the piece you're installing to drive in an anchor......and is much cheaper......:laugh:. If I needed to use 2 pcs of wire in the same hole.....so what??
> 
> **Does not apply in this case.....just something sparky might appreciate....:grin:


I didn't think a Tapcon could even hold in a cinderblock wall without a small piece of wire to snug it up. Solid 12 works also. :grin: Are you a tradesman, SABL?


Nice job on paper holder, Solidify. Looks good centered between the grout joints. :thumb:


----------



## Solidify (May 12, 2011)

> You want a corded drill or a battery powered drill? It is not hard to spend $80-100 USD for a drill.


I have a good corded drill that you saw in the photo that came with a complete bit set. But my battery powered drill is so weak. I can literally stop it from spinning by holding it tight with my hand. My dad got it to me from a clearance sale somewhere for used stuff. So yeah, I'd say I need a portable drill for small jobs. 



> Nice job on paper holder, Solidify. Looks good centered between the grout joints.


Thanks but it's not between the joints, look again, it's right in the center of the tile...

Edit: I think I misunderstood what you meant but yeah, thanks anyways.


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Vegassparky said:


> I didn't think a Tapcon could even hold in a cinderblock wall without a small piece of wire to snug it up. Solid 12 works also. :grin: Are you a tradesman, SABL?
> 
> 
> Nice job on paper holder, Solidify. Looks good centered between the grout joints. :thumb:


Retired carpenter.......:smile:. 27 years commercial and the latter portion residential finish. Started out (19 yrs old) on a framing crew which lasted ~3 years). That's before the use of trusses......and the use of cranes. 

Rarely touch any tools now.......and, the boys have most of 'em. 4 sons are still in the trades, 2 full time and 2 part time.


----------

