# S-10 / Blazer / Jimmy / Bravada / SyTy Owners!



## Nucleartractor (Jul 31, 2008)

Hey guys! Let's see how many we have!

I gots me a 1998 S-10 Blazer 4X4 4 Dr. :grin: Runs like new, but plenty loud with all the exhaust leaks!


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

What are you asking here?

BG


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## Raylo (Feb 12, 2006)

Hey nuke, I am an ex-Chevy S10 4x4 owner (it was a 1994). After many years of good service (not w/o its share of problems, tho) I traded it for a 2009 Toyota Tacoma, which might not have been a good decision what with Toyotas troubles. Anyway, welcome and good luck keeping that 4.3 going. At least you have the improved fuel injection system. Mine had CPI which was not a great design.


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## Nucleartractor (Jul 31, 2008)

BG, this is a thread to bring together owners of the listed vehicles. 



Raylo said:


> Hey nuke, I am an ex-Chevy S10 4x4 owner (it was a 1994). After many years of good service (not w/o its share of problems, tho) I traded it for a 2009 Toyota Tacoma, which might not have been a good decision what with Toyotas troubles. Anyway, welcome and good luck keeping that 4.3 going. At least you have the improved fuel injection system. Mine had CPI which was not a great design.


Believe it or not, on mid grade with the cruise set at 55, I can get 23. But absolutely no city fuel econ just like back when. I liked the looks of the old style like you had though, I've always wanted one. Thanks, and happy driving!

Regards,

Thomas


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

I got ya all beat, I have a 1989 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4 with a military grade locker rear and a vacuum front locker that will pull a Hummer H2 out of a 36deg pitch ditch  4.3 TBI with a 350 turbo trans, and 4.10:1 diff gears  at 175000 she'll pass anything but a gas station. and yea shes loud, exhaust is all intact, but its all 3" instead of 2" I usually end the week at 17 mpg on 87 octane, 20 on 89, and I never have put 92 in the tank yet.

Raylo don;t worry about Toyota's problems, 99% you can fix yourself with the right parts and a little know how, just remember that the cheapest bidder isn't always the best bet.


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## Nucleartractor (Jul 31, 2008)

wolfen1086 said:


> I got ya all beat, I have a 1989 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4 with a military grade locker rear and a vacuum front locker that will pull a Hummer H2 out of a 36deg pitch ditch  4.3 TBI with a 350 turbo trans, and 4.10:1 diff gears  at 175000 she'll pass anything but a gas station. and yea shes loud, exhaust is all intact, but its all 3" instead of 2" I usually end the week at 17 mpg on 87 octane, 20 on 89, and I never have put 92 in the tank yet.
> 
> Raylo don;t worry about Toyota's problems, 99% you can fix yourself with the right parts and a little know how, just remember that the cheapest bidder isn't always the best bet.


ray: Rock on dude! I'd be happy to get a g80 in the rear, that must be beast! 

I do have a question though, does that huge exhaust fix the way that the 4.3 has no top end power? Thanks!

Regards,

Thomas


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

Thanks brother.
the bigger exhaust doesn't do anything for top end that I have seen, in fact with 4.10's not a lot is gonna do anything for top end LOL, but it does help with low end power a little.

And yea shes a beast, I've buried that rig in mud up to the door handles before and slap it in low yank the transfer case handle into low and watch her climb out on her own with nothing more than General Grabber AT2's 
I use that thing as the recovery vehicle for my Jeep, most people use a 30' tow strap, I use 2, 25' lengths of log chain.

Best thing is when I bought it 10 years ago I got it for $700 with a cracked windshield 4WD not working and a bent axle, fixed all that for $80 4wd was a vacuum switch on the transfer case, and the axle I got from a junk yard. first one didn't fit so I had to go back LOL


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## Nucleartractor (Jul 31, 2008)

wolfen1086 said:


> Thanks brother.
> the bigger exhaust doesn't do anything for top end that I have seen, in fact with 4.10's not a lot is gonna do anything for top end LOL, but it does help with low end power a little.
> 
> And yea shes a beast, I've buried that rig in mud up to the door handles before and slap it in low yank the transfer case handle into low and watch her climb out on her own with nothing more than General Grabber AT2's
> ...


I love manual T-cases are so fun! So is the TH350, no worries about tranny problems and rebuild for under $100! What's not to love? What ya got for a Jeep?


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

My jeep is a 01 Wrangler with a 2.5 auto trans and stock manual transfer case D30 front diff D35c read diff (both open) and parking brakes on all 4 wheels  an old trick I learned back when I was 14 pull that nice black lever up a little and all 4 wheels turn because the parking brake simulates traction at each wheel.
It was a bit of a pain finding a front parking brake setup for a spindle type vehicle, but that system works great, and saves about $400 on parts for both ends cause now you don't have to buy ARB lockers or lunchbox lockers.


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## Nucleartractor (Jul 31, 2008)

wolfen1086 said:


> My jeep is a 01 Wrangler with a 2.5 auto trans and stock manual transfer case D30 front diff D35c read diff (both open) and parking brakes on all 4 wheels  an old trick I learned back when I was 14 pull that nice black lever up a little and all 4 wheels turn because the parking brake simulates traction at each wheel.
> It was a bit of a pain finding a front parking brake setup for a spindle type vehicle, but that system works great, and saves about $400 on parts for both ends cause now you don't have to buy ARB lockers or lunchbox lockers.


I heard a neat idea, with the Hummers that the military uses, when you press the gas and the break, the ABS comes on and makes all the wheels spin together. The same thing you said, but done electronically. My dad had a '91 Cherokee with a Toyota 5-speed and as you probably know, that transmission was not a winner. Junked it in '97 .


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

The Humvees we had when I was in the Navy had ARB lockers both front and rear that came on when ever you pulled that neat little 4wd lever.

I like my brake system, but it does have some minor drawbacks, like for one when I do the brakes I have to remember the rear is Jeep brake shoes, and the front disks are 1999 Buick lacrosse rear pads LOL. And at inspection time I always have to explain what eh cables are doing goring to both front and rear brakes.

Here's the Blazer


And here's the Jeep

I took the plastic milk jugs off about two weeks ago. Oh and thos etires are general Grabber AT2's...237/75R15


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## Nucleartractor (Jul 31, 2008)

Both in great shape! Nice trucks.


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

Thanks man, see the dent in the rear 1/4 on the Blazer? Mazda RX7 40 mph, Mazda lost badly


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## Nucleartractor (Jul 31, 2008)

wolfen1086 said:


> Thanks man, see the dent in the rear 1/4 on the Blazer? Mazda RX7 40 mph, Mazda lost badly


I thought that was at like 5MPH (at least on a new car it would be)! What kind of a mess was the other car?!?! What's that thing made out of? Granite?!?! Wow. Ever gonna fix it or is it rusting too slow to be a concern?

Regards,

Thomas


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

Well it IS made in the USA, and out of steel, not plastic, and the doors ain't dent resistant, there steel too.
The other car got swept up with a broom and dustpan. And yea its rusting, but so slow that I don;t worry about cause I'll be dead of old age before it rusts through, see when ever a piece or paint cones off, I coat it with this stuff called br127, toxic as hell, but corrosion proof for 10,000years in salt water or salt air.


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## Nucleartractor (Jul 31, 2008)

wolfen1086 said:


> br127


I looked up a white paper (neat stuff... looks expensive), but I couldn't find any directions or where to buy that, is it difficult to apply? I'm just using good ol' off the shelf rust converter (tannic acid + oxalic acid) and it seems to work pretty well, I just brush it on when ever I see something that looks a little rusty. After 10 years, there isn't s speck of the undercoating left on anything exposed. And are there really only 3 of us on here that have / used to have Blazers / S-10's? Sheesh! :smile:

Regards,

Thomas


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

I think it came from Cytec industries. Yea its expensive, but its the best on the market, military grade protection, just brush, spray, or dip ( dip preferred) onto bare steel and let it air dry in a warm place. but READ THE MSDS!!!!!!, you DO NOT want this stuff on you or to breathe it, this stuff will kill anything.


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## Nucleartractor (Jul 31, 2008)

Yeah... I kinda like living so I think Rust-Oleum works well enough...


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

LOL rust-Olemum work just fine if you do it right, just remember don't sniff that stuff either, it contains some of the same stuff BR 127 has in it.


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## Nucleartractor (Jul 31, 2008)

wolfen1086 said:


> LOL rust-Olemum work just fine if you do it right, just remember don't sniff that stuff either, it contains some of the same stuff BR 127 has in it.


I did notice over half of the can is warnings... :grin: but its usually calm enough here to paint outside without the stuff blowing in your face. I have no idea if I'm applying it right... I just spray on, wait until it's dry to the touch and then paint over it. It seems to be holding up well here against the new "salt brine" (sugar beet molasses + salt).


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## wolfen1086 (Oct 4, 2007)

That's how you use any spray paint in a can, but still slightly tacky is better than dry to the touch unless the directions say dry.


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## Nucleartractor (Jul 31, 2008)

The direction on the can of the rust converter say to paint EXACTLY 15 minutes after you spray it on. However, there are a lot of holidays still visible in 15 minutes, and I don't like runs so I wait another few minutes. Then I spray on Rustoleum Hammered finish and that takes about 10-15 minutes to be dry enough to coat again and 20-25 minutes to be dry enough to re-assemble (but it will scratch VERY easily). There should be a how-to spraypaint thread here... I might get on that when I re-paint my core support -- first time didn't go well because I was young and stupid.

BTW, that's gotta be the most pessimistic signature in the history of the internet. LOL!


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## 97'sonoma (Feb 15, 2010)

I wish I would've found this post sooner ive got a 97' prototype of what was going to be the 2nd gen Sy but good ole' federal health codes said if it explodes on impact it probably shouldn't be sold as a fast vehicle so after a few hand picked sonomas were modified by gm they went to the garbage,well so they think, a few got out. ive had the motor apart to see just why the hell they're so fast for stock. hmm maybe vortec heads dome pistons and hooked it up to my dads diagnostics lap top for tuning and reading and this thing is tweaked! top speed limiter at 162,takes like 20 sec's to hit it full air stability suspension (curently not workin) lateral air shocks for traction stability, 2 1/2 in. exhaust g80 rear with that sensa-track or what ever electric locker posi, ext. cab but no back seats just room,has a factory low stance and rear sway bar 5 spd manual although i did put a stage 2 clutch in it. its got 172,000 and still spins 4th gear at 80 z rated falken 10 in wide tires on back and smokin preludes alllllll daaaayyy loooooonnng. although it does need a wiring harness right now. but still runs great and no engine problems or noises. they really didnt produce it cause they didnt want ti kill the sales of the extreme s-10 witch i didnt like. ide get pics up but its in horrible shape right now.


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## Nucleartractor (Jul 31, 2008)

97'sonoma said:


> I wish I would've found this post sooner ive got a 97' prototype of what was going to be the 2nd gen Sy but good ole' federal health codes said if it explodes on impact it probably shouldn't be sold as a fast vehicle so after a few hand picked sonomas were modified by gm they went to the garbage,well so they think, a few got out. ive had the motor apart to see just why the hell they're so fast for stock. hmm maybe vortec heads dome pistons and hooked it up to my dads diagnostics lap top for tuning and reading and this thing is tweaked! top speed limiter at 162,takes like 20 sec's to hit it full air stability suspension (curently not workin) lateral air shocks for traction stability, 2 1/2 in. exhaust g80 rear with that sensa-track or what ever electric locker posi, ext. cab but no back seats just room,has a factory low stance and rear sway bar 5 spd manual although i did put a stage 2 clutch in it. its got 172,000 and still spins 4th gear at 80 z rated falken 10 in wide tires on back and smokin preludes alllllll daaaayyy loooooonnng. although it does need a wiring harness right now. but still runs great and no engine problems or noises. they really didnt produce it cause they didnt want ti kill the sales of the extreme s-10 witch i didnt like. ide get pics up but its in horrible shape right now.


Wow! Nice, I'd definitely like to hear more about that. (I knew there had to be more than two S-10 owners on this forum  ) What's the transmission in it? GM Didn't really do the 2nd Gen manual Blazer justice with the wimpy transmission they put in it. Is yours the same, modified or a whole different animal? And why is it everyone but me has a G80?!?! :upset: When you go out, you can't swing a cat without hitting a G80, yet my family has had 4 Chevy trucks and never had one!
172 and still running great? Are you running synthetic or standard oil? (I run syn, and I have 150K and she still runs like new). How about filter? 
Happy Driving!

Regards,

Thomas


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## 97'sonoma (Feb 15, 2010)

Nucleartractor said:


> Wow! Nice, I'd definitely like to hear more about that. (I knew there had to be more than two S-10 owners on this forum  ) What's the transmission in it? GM Didn't really do the 2nd Gen manual Blazer justice with the wimpy transmission they put in it. Is yours the same, modified or a whole different animal? And why is it everyone but me has a G80?!?! :upset: When you go out, you can't swing a cat without hitting a G80, yet my family has had 4 Chevy trucks and never had one!
> 172 and still running great? Are you running synthetic or standard oil? (I run syn, and I have 150K and she still runs like new). How about filter?
> Happy Driving!
> 
> ...


whole diffrent animal, and Castrol GTX 10-30 non-syn though im not sure what it is but definatly not that heavy hunk of crap in the blazer. it gears a way to far spread to be any thing i know of. i hit 162 at 3600 rpm in 5th and i think it might be one of the ZF tranys


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## 97'sonoma (Feb 15, 2010)

Nucleartractor said:


> you can't swing a cat without hitting a G80,
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Thomas


try swingin it in the scrap yard you might be able to adopt one of those g80's for around 75-200 bucks


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## Nucleartractor (Jul 31, 2008)

97'sonoma said:


> whole diffrent animal, and Castrol GTX 10-30 non-syn though im not sure what it is but definatly not that heavy hunk of crap in the blazer. it gears a way to far spread to be any thing i know of. i hit 162 at 3600 rpm in 5th and i think it might be one of the ZF tranys


Must be nice! ray:



97'sonoma said:


> try swingin it in the scrap yard you might be able to adopt one of those g80's for around 75-200 bucks


I have thought about that, but I have seen a lot of threads where people did something stupid and blew up their g80, so I'm afraid if I go used I'll get someone's mistake. Any way to tell the good from the bad?

Regards,

Thomas


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## 97'sonoma (Feb 15, 2010)

buy it out off a wrecked on that way you know it was working when they scraped it. no head on impact though thats bad for the drivetrain.


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## Nucleartractor (Jul 31, 2008)

97'sonoma said:


> buy it out off a wrecked on that way you know it was working when they scraped it. no head on impact though thats bad for the drivetrain.


I just may have to check that out. I'll be looking up RPO codes for it, because we have a crazy ray's right down the road... I should definitely take the cover off to make sure nothing is shredded right?

Regards,

Thomas


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## 97'sonoma (Feb 15, 2010)

yes definatly pull the cover.


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