# Briggs & Stratton 16.5 hp starting/compression issue.



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

So I'll give a little back info so you understand where I'm at now. For a while the motor has had a "hitch" so to speak as if the compression is too high when trying to start. It generally takes a few turns of the key to get it past that point to turn over and fire. I changed the starter solenoid as I was having issues and it fired right up. I went to start it a few hours later and nothing. It was attempting to move the flywheel but unable to. I hit the key a few times but nada. I also couldn't turn it with my hand. I assumed the valves finally need adjusting which I haven't done yet, that's why I'm here. So I smelled gas and took the air cleaner off, it was soaked with gas. Pulled the spark plug out and gas poured out so now I have to change the oil. So here's my question before I tear into this I wanted to get an opinion. Is it possible the compression was finally too high and gas poured in because I kept hitting the key and it didn't turn over? OR is it more likely the carburetor float needle is stuck and in fact the extra compression was indeed from the gas? I know you can't tell without seeing it, just looking for best guess here before I tear into it. I think I'm going to check the valves first anyways since that's free. Thanks for any info! Oh and I'm new here so thanks for having me!
Edit: I don't know if this makes a difference but it's in a yard machine riding mower.


----------



## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

Sounds you have developed a second problem along with the valves needing adjustment. 

With fuel in the cylinder it would be hydro locking as you can not compress a liquid. Yes it would be a float needle and/or seat problem in the carburetor. Without doing a pop off test after replacing needle you might miss a leaking seat. This something I learn to do as insure that thing are good before completing a repair. As with some carburetors especially the Nikki there is o-ring on the fuel tube or the bowl gasket that can leak and cause the same problem. Also if it is a Nikki watch for loose main jet(s) as their retaining o-ring do get loose.

It wouldn't hurt to adjust the valve as that is part of the routine maintenance for the engine. Repair the carburetor is also need as well a complete engine oil change including if the has a oil filter it too.


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

Thanks for the reply. I thought about just buying a new carb since I can get one on amazon for $30. The only thing is, I can't seem to find an exact match. All the replacement carbs look a bit different than the original and I just want to be sure they'll work. Every site I check is saying the same carb though. Here's the sire I'm going off of to look at what the replacement would be. Briggs and Stratton 313777-0112-E1 Parts List and Diagram : eReplacementParts.com
Then I've attached a picture of the actual carb. I thought about replacing the float needle but I figure I'll probably need new gaskets and I figure by the time I get all the little odds and ends, it would come close to the same $$ for a new carb.


----------



## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

Your current carburetor is the Walbro. What I seen on Amazon as the replacement carburetor the for 698620 is a Nikki clone. 

The Briggs 698620 has been superceded to 799727 which is a genuine Nikki which lists for $145.95 selling on Amazon for 99.99 including shipping. 

So it is up to you if you wish used the clone. Personally I would just repair the current carburetor. Note: If you ever should need to repair that clone be aware that parts will not be available as it is made in China by a factory that does supply individual repair parts.


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

Thanks. I saw the one for $99 but there are others for $30 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U1RZM64/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AKUMGGFTUYR30 https://www.amazon.com/Wilk-Briggs-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7GCEVANCS4AW5QGD7P7M that I'm looking at. I see slight differences in these two but they both say they will fit. I think I'm going to install a shutoff valve too to help preserve the carb. I can't seem to find a walbro anywhere but by the time I added up replacement parts is nearly $30. Thanks for the info! I'm still trying to decide to repair or replace lol. If I were to repair it, should I just replace the float needle or the inlet seat too?


----------



## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

z28man said:


> Thanks. I saw the one for $99 but there are others for $30 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U1RZM64/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AKUMGGFTUYR30 https://www.amazon.com/Wilk-Briggs-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7GCEVANCS4AW5QGD7P7M that I'm looking at. I see slight differences in these two but they both say they will fit. I think I'm going to install a shutoff valve too to help preserve the carb. I can't seem to find a walbro anywhere but by the time I added up replacement parts is nearly $30. Thanks for the info! I'm still trying to decide to repair or replace lol. If I were to repair it, should I just replace the float needle or the inlet seat too?


Yes those Chinese carburetors look tempting but there can be a problem sometimes. I just don't risk my business rep on installing them. Done had replace a Stihl Zama clone out my pocket this year that I tried so I lost the difference between the two and my time. I couldn't even adjust the fuel mixtures.

You replace both the needle and seat along the bowl gasket that why they come the carburetor overhaul kit. The gasket on the fuel solenoid is usually re-usable.


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

Thanks for all the info. It looks like the newer mowers use the newer style carbs. I wonder why they quit using the Walbro.


----------



## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

z28man said:


> Thanks for all the info. It looks like the newer mowers use the newer style carbs. I wonder why they quit using the Walbro.


Probably cost less than the Walbro. You never know with trading partners. All I know it is costing less me to repair the Nikki as most time all I do is clean the carb and install a new bowl gasket set. 

That's why I have ultrasonic cleaner that costed $275.00 but I sold my first UC unit for $50 so the replacement wasn't as costly and it help out a fellow tech to get started using one. It was that I just out grew the tank size as I am now working ATVs too.


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

Well thanks again for all the info. I ended up ordering the new one as I've had issues with this one every year which my dad has helped me with. I watched a few repair videos and they didn't look too bad but since I'm not 100% sure if it's just one thing or the other I said screw it and ordered a new one lol. I'm pretty mechanically inclined I just don't want to get nickle and dimed anymore. I'll hand on to the old one though in case I ever want to fiddle with it.


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

Instead of making a new thread I just thought I'd post an "update" question in here, hope it gets seen lol. I've now adjusted the valves. When I took the valve cover off, again gas poured straight out, quite a bit I might add. Getting ready to change the oil and I'm wondering, how exactly do I know when I've got all this darn gas out of the motor? Should the rest drain out with the oil? Should I hit the key and turn it over a few times with the valve cover off? Should I take off the old carb and turn it over a few times?


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

I wouldn't change the oil until the carb has been repaired (or replaced). If you can turn the engine by hand, make a few slow rotations. Most of the gas should have drained out of the valve area through the oil return passages. 

Don't change the oil until the old carb has been removed.......unless you want to change it twice.


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

Alright thanks. I rotated it a few times while adjusting the valves and it was done emptying out. I'll be changing the carb in the morning, then I'll do the oil after. The gas tank is bone dry by now but I suppose there could be some gas left in the carb or line somewhere. You're right, best to be safe. On a side note, I don't know if gas has any cleaning properties but MAN was it CLEAN inside my valve cover. This mower is pushing 20 year old too and to my knowledge, this has never been done before.


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Gas has excellent cleaning properties if the crud/gunk is petroleum based. Not so good if trying to clean anything water soluble. The main problem with using gas as a cleaning agent is the flammability.. 

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.


----------



## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

Nothing like your eyebrows and hair burnt off at the least. Boom

I have toasted a few things from using spray oil around electro-mechanical governors.


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

AVB said:


> Nothing like your eyebrows and hair burnt off at the least. Boom
> 
> I have toasted a few things from using spray oil around electro-mechanical governors.


:rofl:

I had a friend who poured gas on a woodpile he wanted to burn......then he decided to look for his lighter. It took a few weeks for his eyebrows to grow back......hair wasn't a problem (he was bald). 

I just use a propane torch to get my fire-pit going......and a little used motor oil.


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

You guys got me rolling lol. I'll keep you posted.


----------



## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

SABL said:


> :rofl:
> I had a friend who poured gas on a woodpile he wanted to burn......then he decided to look for his lighter.


I had the next neighbor do something about like that. It rattled the shop garage door as the empty gas can exploded. He was throwing matches at the wood pile when he struck one and the vapors around him ignited. His pants were wet when I went to check on him.

I do use fuel mix to clean here but I make sure no one is around to light me up. Its not as flammable but will still do it.


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

I use whatever is handy. Prefer kerosene or mineral spirits but use gas if I have to. Lacquer thinner works good.......used plenty of that in the wood shop. In my early days as a carpenter the contact cement was extremely flammable......had to shut off all pilot lights or run the risk of going boom. 

I had to replace the wood base in an office building after the painter set off the sprinkler system. He was using a paint stripping solvent with steel wool and hit the screws on a light switch that was hanging out of the wall box.......he was lucky when the explosion blew him out of the room instead of into the room.

As long as I've drifted off topic I may as well go a little further.....:angel:

z28man.......hmmmm. I know what a Z28 is......does that mean you own one?? One of my sons has a '95 6sp he keeps garaged when not in use.


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

So here's the update. Got everything back together, new carb, oil changed, adjusted the valves the other day. It turns over super easy now to start and fires right up. I'm having a little trouble adjusting the carb, I can't get it to run just right, at least under low load. While adjusting the carb, sometimes I get a quick backfire out of the carb. I've got it running pretty good now but I feel like it could be better. This is the one I'm using btw https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U1RZM64/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AKUMGGFTUYR30 

I wasn't sure sure if there was a particular way to plug in the solenoid on the bottom so I tried it both ways and didn't seem to help.


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

Another quick update, I couldn't edit the last post for some reason.
Got it pretty well dialed in. It idles just a touch faster than I want but if I turn it down a hair more it will kinda cough out of the air breather, not necessarily backfire. Otherwise it seems to be running really smooth. When I shut it off it does the same kinda cough or puff out of the air breather but not backfire. I realized I needed to warm it up good before I adjusted things. Any tips on where I'm at now? I think I'll go ahead and mow and see what happens.


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

Can't edit again.....
Okay we're back to running rough only now after a bit of running it starts making a kinda of squealing sound. I just put the front of the mower back on, the hood cover and what not so it could be realted to that. I checked the oil and all looked fine. I'm seriously getting fed up here. I also got a backfire as I fired it up the second time. I'm starting to wonder if I got the valves adjusted properly. I used a feelerguage to the proper specs though :/


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

*AVB* will be the one to guide you on the valves. There is a special procedure with B&S engines. Backfire on start or shutdown could still be valves slightly off. Squeal could be a belt now that the deck is on.....if from the engine, it's not a happy sound. Check for any 'glitter' when you pull the stick to check oil level.....just wipe the dipstick between your fingers and look closely for any shiny specks.

Backfire on shutdown can be normal.......I have to go to half throttle before even thinking about turning the key off. If I don't bring the RPMs up the engine will backfire......but, i am running a Kohler engine.


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

It seems like no matter the adjustment I make on the carb I get hunting and surging. I took the front cover back off and I haven't had a squeal since so that I assume was maybe something loose connected to the front light and engine cover/hood. I've taken away fuel and added fuel and, with the exception of earlier, it still hunts and surges and every now and then half way backfires. The governor seems fine, it was fine before with the old carb. I really don't want to dig back into the valves but I may need to.
Edit: I also checked the spark plug and it was dry and white.


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

I don't know if this means anything but I went to take the spark plug out again in the process of checking the valves and it broke off completely at the white part of the plug.


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

Sorry for all the extra posts but the edit button goes away after a bit. I spark plug wasn't that white after looking at it again, just a little but it did break off so I'm going to run to the store and get a new one. I re-adjusted the valves, mainly the intake. Upon checking it this time it seemed a little tight. I looked up how to adjust the valves on a B&S. Take it to top dead center then move the piston 1/4 inch and adjust. Also watched quite a few videos before hand. If the intake was a bit too tight, could that cause the backfiring? I guess I'll find out if I get to try it again before I see another post.


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

"The governor seems fine"........if this is a new carb and is in proper adjustment the governor needs to be looked at a wee bit closer. 

Broken spark plug is usually due to not keeping the socket perpendicular to the plug. Lateral force is not good on ceramics. Get a new plug and try not to make the same mistake......if I were to claim I've never broken a spark plug I would be a pretty good liar....:grin:


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

It's still running the same even after readjusting valves. Still hunting and surging. Actually getting a bit more backfire now. both valves are adjusted to .005. ex says between .005 and .007, intake says .003 and .005 so I ended up setting both at 5. How loose is the governor supposed to be exactly? It's got good tension at full throttle and good spring but it's loose at low throttle.


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

Update: I broke down and called meh pappy to ask him about it lol. I was really hoping to not have to bug him with it again but eh. His advice, since I've adjusted the valves a few times was to go ahead and mow with it and see if the valves would seat in. I went ahead and mowed our back yard and it mowed fine. With the blades engaged it didn't really hunt or surge any and cut my really tall grass like butter. He also said it's possible because the engine is so old that the factory valve settings may not work exactly as a new motor. Anyways, that's where I'm at now. I'll continue to check in with you guys but for now I think I'll mow with it a time or two and see if it settles. I wouldn't think it'd be too far off it it turns over really easy and fires right up.


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

Man I wish this would let me edit my posts after more than a few minutes lol. Okay final update till it's running 100% or whatever. Something my dad said to me earlier just clicked about the reason it backfires is because the exhaust valve isn't opening soon enough. Right, I knew that. BUT what I just thought of was, every time I've adjusted the valves, I've adjusted them together. Staying between the specs but still. It just dawned on me that maybe the intake valve is fine but the exhaust valve needs to open sooner. So tomorrow I'll probably test my theory. I don't know what this will do for the hunting but if I can eliminate the backfires altogether, that'd be a good start. Sorry for all these posts guys and thanks for all your help so far.


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

15 minute window to edit posts.....don't worry about making additional posts. 

Turning the flywheel in the direction of engine rotation, bring the piston to TDC (Top Dead Center) on the compression stroke. Insert a dowel or slender screwdriver, as a gauge, into the spark plug hole and keep turning the flywheel until the piston is 1/4" down from TDC. Adjust the valves per specs. 1/4" from TDC is critical for B&S engines when adjusting valves.

Depending on the age and wear on the engine I'd keep the adjustments on the tight side......go by the lower numbers. If the cam is worn you won't get the lift or duration needed.


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

Thanks. Ya I've been turning the engine 1/4 past TDC, sticking a coupler driver in to feel where it is. The valves were initially on the tighter side and I feel like that was better than how they are now so I'm going to do one last adjustment back to the tighter side as you say but within the specs. Then, as long as it's not completely running like trash, I'll probably give it a few mows to see if it settles in.


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

Just readjusted the valves for the last time for a while lol. Took your advice and put them both a little more towards the tight side, the exhaust a bit more to try and get rid of the backfire. Fired right up, still hunted a bit but then mostly smoothed out, not completely but definitely better than last night. Still getting a slight backfire (puff) through the carb every so often, mainly when adjusting the throttle down even going slow. Both valves are still in spec, exhaust is at 5 and intake is at 3. One thing to note that's interesting is the feeler gauge is kind of hard to initially get between the valves, not hard but pretty snug. However once it's in then it feels as it should. I feel like maybe the valve tip where I set the lash, maybe the edges are a bit warn, they're pretty sharp. Everything turns over easy though. I turned it a few times by hand and rechecked the settings. Anyways, I'll run it like this for a while and see if it settles in. I'll check back in in the near future with an update.


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Sounds good so far. I wouldn't go any tighter than minimum specs......or run the risk of wiping the cam lobes. From the sound of things the engine doesn't need any more wear. 

I haven't started my mower yet.....haven't even tried. The grass could use a cutting but it will have to wait. Pre-season maintenance will also require blade sharpening and a new battery.....along with oil, filter, and a complete lube job. Wouldn't hurt to replace the air filter while I'm at it. The mower is 14yrs old and should be the last mower I need to buy. The mower should last 3,000 hours and I've only put a little over 500 hours on it so far.


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

Sounds like you've got a bit of work ahead of you. Most of what you mentioned I've got done plus new tires all around. New oil and filter too. I have an air filter in the mail and that should finish it up for now.


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

I need to get new tires.....plenty of tread but rubber is getting hard. Just don't grip like they should when making turns (Zero Turn). Blades are twice as thick as residential mowers and has 3 blades. 

Would have been on it by now but lost most of my vision due to cataracts.....bummer. First eye was done last week and 2nd eye will be done Wednesday....then they have to heal. Now I have to invest in a pair of safety glasses......I put my glasses on the nightstand last Wednesday and that's where they've stayed. 

Also have 4,000 sq ft of roof to replace. I will be assisting my 4 sons.....:laugh: The youngest will be 36 in May.....the older 3 are experienced in carpentry. I am a retired carpenter that dabbles with engines.....started working on cars at 14. Been maintaining my own equipment since starting my household......in 1970.


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

That's a lot to do lol. Sorry to hear about the eyes, my wife's dad is going through the same thing. I'll be praying for ya!
I'll take this opportunity to thank you once again. Final update: I mowed the rest of the yard with it and boy it mows great. It hunted a bit when I first started it but after that it was good. Even when I was done, shut the blades off and turned down the throttle it was almost completely smooth except for one little cough. But it sat there and Idle'd with the throttle all the way down, I actually need to turn the idle down just a hair. Anyways I'm going to leave it as is for a few mows and see if she finishes sorting herself out. Again, it mowed so good and thank you guys so much for all the advice. I was ready to pull my hair out yesterday lol.


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Glad to hear the mower is running much better......:thumb: Stop in any time if you have any questions.....especially for IT and computers. 

I'm familiar with eye problems and have been wearing glasses for 59 years.....with exception of a few years after refractive surgery in '93. This latest round is not the first time my eyes have been operated on. I still have the same surgeon......:laugh:


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

SABL said:


> Glad to hear the mower is running much better......:thumb: Stop in any time if you have any questions.....especially for IT and computers.


Thanks. Not sure I'll have too many IT questions as I've got my bachelors in computer science lol. I'm pretty knowledgeable about engines too and do most of my own work, this mower and the valve adjustments were a pain. That's one thing I've done very little so I imagine there's somewhat of a learning curve even with a feeler gauge. Thanks again.


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Computer and Information Science......that should get you somewhere. In the mid '80's my neighbor's son graduated near the top of his class at Ohio State in CIS. The interviews poured in after graduation and he was even flown to London (UK) for an interview. He pretty much got in on the ground floor back then.

Good luck and stop in again. Maybe help others with computer related issues??


----------



## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

Sorry I been offlined by migraines then I had to catch-up my workload.

You minimum idle speed is 1750 and top no speed is 3300 +-100 rpm.

Surging can be that the static governor adjustment is off but many newer engines surge when off load due to being slightly too lean to meet EPA specs. It only solution sometimes is resizing the main jet. This someone with micro bits and knowledge what needs to be done. Not just anyone can do this without experience. BTW I done had to resize two so this year already; not suppose to do this but I can't stand an engine surging.


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

I figured something was up, AVB......hope the headaches have subsided. The only reason I offered advice is I noticed your absence.


----------



## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

SABL said:


> I figured something was up, AVB......hope the headaches have subsided. The only reason I offered advice is I noticed your absence.


Not as bad as they once were 40 years ago as I have learn when one or set is coming on and try to take my meds in time. Don't always work the first dose as it may take three or four doses. I couldn't even work Saturday as I couldn't even keep my mind on what I was doing when sharping a chain and pulled on it backwards.:facepalm: I know better yet I did it anyway. Ouch! I slept most of Sunday after the meds took effect.

And that help is appreciated as I do need the help too at times.


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

Thank for the info. I'm going to run it a few times. It's almost completely smooth, at least yesterday when I finished mowing. I have noticed something kind of curious. I replaced the fuel filter. I honestly didn't know if there was a specific one for it but I got one that looked like the old one. The old one was orange and this is the new one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKI908/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 

I can actually see through this one and I've noticed sometimes it will get kind of an air bubble in it like it's only 75% full of fuel. Then later I'll look at it and don't see an air bubble. I've kind of wondered if maybe I got the wrong filter and that's part of the issue. It's a gravity delivered system, no fuel pump. Either way I'm going to run it how I've got it a few times and see what happens. Thanks again guys for all the help. 
PS: Sorry about the migraines, I'll be praying for ya!

Edit: How exactly do you tell what your idle speed is?


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

I can only imagine what it's like......but I do have 3 little headaches when school isn't in session......:grin:

I'm waiting on my vision to settle after eye surgery......it's not where I'd like it to be. Reading text on a monitor is a bummer.....and I'm too stubborn to wear my glasses. We'll see what happens Wednesday after the other cataract is removed. Distant vision is greatly improved but close work is futile.....too blurry.


----------



## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

> I can actually see through this one and I've noticed sometimes it will get kind of an air bubble in it like it's only 75% full of fuel. Then later I'll look at it and don't see an air bubble. I've kind of wondered if maybe I got the wrong filter and that's part of the issue. It's a gravity delivered system, no fuel pump. Either way I'm going to run it how I've got it a few times and see what happens. Thanks again guys for all the help.
> 
> Edit: How exactly do you tell what your idle speed is? Yesterday 07:45 PM


If was a fuel pump system sometimes they are just wet looking at times but with a gravity system they do normally fill fully after short time as air in system is forced out and then should they filled. Most likely you got a filter for fuel pump system if it becoming partially filled during operations. For gravity systems you can't go much tighter than 75 microns though I am supposedly running a 25 micron on personal mower but I notice the Supplier has changed specs in the catalog to 75 microns. And of note here is most fuel pumps systems can use down to a 10 micron fuel filter on small vacuum operated fuel pumps. 

As for checking any engine for speed it requires a tach set at one spark every full turn of the crankshaft. Yes the fires every complete turn of the crankshaft even it is a 4 cycle. It is called a wasted spark system. It is even one tool that is mechanical that check the rpm but I have never used one. It senses the vibrations from the igniting the fuel.

It basically just a wire wrap around the plug wire and one ground the crankcase with a digital counter. Invaluable for us techs that work on engines especially those 2 cycle engines we need to speed limit. I work on chainsaws that can't exceed 13,500 or 9,000 depending the OEM or they will self destruct as they lean out.


----------



## z28man (Apr 4, 2017)

Thanks for the info. The filter I got was a 75 micron and it specifically says "or Lawn Tractor Engines with out a Fuel Pump" Since the old one was orange though I'm wondering if it was a 150 micron. The higher the micron the more flow it has?
I checked out the old one and it looks really clean on the inside so I may just switch back to it, that is if I still have issues.

As for the engine speed. Is it dire that I get it to idle at exactly 1750rpm?


----------



## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

z28man said:


> Thanks for the info. The filter I got was a 75 micron and it specifically says "or Lawn Tractor Engines with out a Fuel Pump" Since the old one was orange though I'm wondering if it was a 150 micron. The higher the micron the more flow it has?
> I checked out the old one and it looks really clean on the inside so I may just switch back to it, that is if I still have issues.
> 
> As for the engine speed. Is it dire that I get it to idle at exactly 1750rpm?


Yes higher microns is higher flow (lower Filtration). I went back and look you image posted. That inline strainer filter was actually Red at one time before it faded and yes it was the 150 micron version. I don't usually see them clogging except for things like insects and grass clippings where the owner doesn't keep his fuel sealed.

If you're planning on putting the old filter back on, please be sure you don't reverse it what in it will end in the carburetor. I had one that did that 3x two years ago with me having to clean carburetor each time. The worst of it he had sand in his fuel tank. Thought I was never going one grain out of the idle jet.

As far the idle it needs to at least 1700 but can be higher without problems. Generators I work sometimes run at 3600-3750 rpm all the time so they produce the correct 60-62 Hz.


----------

