# Dee Dai Wood stove model 6004



## wolfen1086

Ok gentlemen, I have a serious question before I install this wood stove and burn down my house, I have a Dee Dai wood stove model 6004. If I use stove board made by imperial how much does it reduce the clearance requirements? Heres a picture of the spec sheet on the stove board, 
http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/9656/img032u.jpg

I am having one of those days where I second guess my self and I really don;t wanna do that with a wood stove.

Heres a copy of the clearance requirements listed on the stove itself

http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/9707/img033wo.jpg
sorry about the Grey but I did that part in pencil in case I goofed it up

In the second picture, the minimum clearance form combustibles is 34" in the rear 28" on the sides
Hearth clearances are 8" rear, 16" front


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## SABL

Where do you plan on putting the stove....center of a wall or near a corner??

Basic specs indicate the clearances can be divided by 3 for the walls (but no less than 12" for the stove or the flue) with a minimum of 18" extended past the outer dimensions of the actual stove. 

The hearth is rather small for most codes.....at least in front of the stove. Minimum is 18" in front of the stove and 6" on the sides and to the rear of the stove. My hearth extends 12" to each side of the firebox. 

Wall clearance should be easy to achieve........but what are you doing about venting the stove?? What consideration have you given to installing the flue??


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## Basementgeek

I know you don't want to hear this,but call your home owners insurance first.

They have a real problem with you installing a wood heater.

BG


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## wolfen1086

SABL said:


> Where do you plan on putting the stove....center of a wall or near a corner??
> 
> Basic specs indicate the clearances can be divided by 3 for the walls (but no less than 12" for the stove or the flue) with a minimum of 18" extended past the outer dimensions of the actual stove.
> 
> The hearth is rather small for most codes.....at least in front of the stove. Minimum is 18" in front of the stove and 6" on the sides and to the rear of the stove. My hearth extends 12" to each side of the firebox.
> 
> Wall clearance should be easy to achieve........but what are you doing about venting the stove?? What consideration have you given to installing the flue??


the stove calls for 34" on the side and 28" to the rear and thats pipe to wall, so if I divide 34 by 3 I get 11.7, so I am installing it near a corner and I will have the stove board mounted 1" away from the wall and 1" up from the floor as per manufacturers instructions, the heater itself is currently 20" from the widest part of the sides to the walls and from the widest part of the back to the corner is 31" The carpet under the wood has been removed and the heater is sitting on a stove board also with a heat shield mounted to the under side of the unit itself. the bare wood going around the bottom of the hearth is going to be tiled tomorrow, and its 1" above the rest of the floor area with 20 " in front of the heater. The flue is an 8" triple wall for above the ceiling and I will hang about 3" down below the ceiling due to the insulate ability of the triple wall chimney pipe, from there down to the heater is going to be single wall 8" stove pipe, and since it is only 27 " from the pipe to the wall I am installing a heat shield around the back side of the pipe also
Heres a pic of it sitting, keep in m,ind its not finished yet
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/1829/20111113221934.jpg
By using this thing I'll be saving between $2000 and $2500 a year in oil.
Oh and the outlet in the lower left of the picture is going away, and the curtains are fire proof, but I'm taking them down too anyway ( just in case)


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## wolfen1086

Basementgeek said:


> I know you don't want to hear this,but call your home owners insurance first.
> 
> They have a real problem with you installing a wood heater.
> 
> BG


I called a " licensed" installer in this area who flat out told me my fire place would have to wait until summer, well its a heater, not a fireplace, he even came out and quoted me $3000 to install it for me, and said it could go where my current oil furnace is, which would burn my house down if I put a wood heater in a closet. Which tells me the installers around here (1) do substandard work, and (2) are totally clueless.
besides St Farm wants $200 up front before they will even come out with an adjuster after a storm destroys my awning and siding so I am basically on my own with them anyway


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## Basementgeek

Sounds like you need a new insurance company. In the last eight years or so, I have three storm related losses, never charged a penny.

BG


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## wolfen1086

Yea I know, but being that this is a modular home and the city of Va Beach doesn't recognize it as a modular home they classify it as a double wide mobile home. Here in Va Beach there are two types of homes, stick built and mobile, thats all they recognize. so St Farm is the only one that will insure it here, however if I was five miles away in Chesapeake, I could do what I wanted no building permit required for the inside of my house and I could have what ever insurance company I wanted. Kinda strange huh? 
but if the insurance company ever does come out I could simply tell them either I installed it years ago or it came with the house when I bought it, either way they would never know unless they research the forums here and find this post years from now. But I'll probably tell them "yea i installed it and its safe" .
You see since I have little to no experience in buildings, I overkill everything I do, using military experience as a guide. Take my floor its press board, the section where the heater sits was removed, and replaced with 1" treated plywood, with 4x4" between the runners every foot screwed in with outdoor coated lag bolts, last time i did that was under my washing machine when the floor went cause of the pump, I called the building insp3ector for the city and he asked if I was expecting a nuclear bob blast under my washer, so I guess I did it right. besides what is my insurance company gonna do tell me I can;t heat my house? 
I make 30k a year before taxes, I have to do what I can to save money where I can. Wood heat is the best I can do for my family.


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## SABL

Not liking what I am seeing, wolfen. 

The wall shield must come within 3" of the ceiling and a 1" space is required at the floor. The floor protection is inadequate and must extend 18" in front of the stove. The wood has to go.....it is combustible....or you can lay ceramic tile on top of it. Anything under the stove or considered as the hearth must be masonry or a type of cement board. 

The wall clearance also includes any part of the flue (vent) if it is a single wall vent. Without the shield extending to within 3" of the ceiling (1" minimum and 3" maximum) you will need to maintain the original clearances.......no clearance will be less than 12"". The triple wall works for close clearances because of the air flow in the outer layers of the vent. You may not get the savings you expect because the triple wall vent needs to "breathe" and will pull air out of the house.....the air you are trying to heat. 

Are you going to have to pull a permit on this project?? If so, the building dept is the place to ask.....the hearth size in your drawing is inadequate and the wall clearances may be incorrect. Remember that the wall clearances are 12" minimum and the wall shield will need 1" of air space behind it and be 1'" above the noncombustible floor (hearth) for air circulation.....this is a must!! ****The wall shield and the triple wall vent rely on air circulation!!


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## Basementgeek

Sabl:

Are you sure that the out side layers of a triple wall pipe are vented to outside air?

I always thought that they were designed to to protect the surrounding area and providing a hot draft on the inside pipe. A cool chimney causes problems with build up. Found that out when I hook up my wood burner to a standard
masonry chimney.

BG


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## SABL

****I stand corrected......been 20+ years since I have worked with triple wall pipe. There is a 1" layer of insulation between the individual pipes.....a 6" inside diameter pipe will have a 10" outer diameter.

Nice catch BG!!


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## wolfen1086

SABL said:


> Not liking what I am seeing, wolfen.
> 
> The wall shield must come within 3" of the ceiling and a 1" space is required at the floor. The floor protection is inadequate and must extend 18" in front of the stove. The wood has to go.....it is combustible....or you can lay ceramic tile on top of it. Anything under the stove or considered as the hearth must be masonry or a type of cement board.
> 
> The wall clearance also includes any part of the flue (vent) if it is a single wall vent. Without the shield extending to within 3" of the ceiling (1" minimum and 3" maximum) you will need to maintain the original clearances.......no clearance will be less than 12"". The triple wall works for close clearances because of the air flow in the outer layers of the vent. You may not get the savings you expect because the triple wall vent needs to "breathe" and will pull air out of the house.....the air you are trying to heat.
> 
> Are you going to have to pull a permit on this project?? If so, the building dept is the place to ask.....the hearth size in your drawing is inadequate and the wall clearances may be incorrect. Remember that the wall clearances are 12" minimum and the wall shield will need 1" of air space behind it and be 1'" above the noncombustible floor (hearth) for air circulation.....this is a must!! ****The wall shield and the triple wall vent rely on air circulation!!


Not likeing what your seeing? thats why I said its not done yet  I have more to do, the exposed wood WILL be tiles, theres a 1' area around it there will be 18" in front of it when its done and the stove board will be 1" away, and since it doesn't go all the way up there will be a heat shield attached to the stove pipe, hopefully with a reflector to reflect the heat toward the hallway not just back into the room. or else I have to replace the stove board with mason board in 4x8 sheets. But the home inspector so far said its ok to use like it is, but since the city doesn't get into wood heaters I'll use my years military experience to over kill the safety aspect


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## SABL

Are those the actual wall shields that I see in the photos?? Can you stand them up and recheck clearances?? I'm not sure if you have enough height on the shields.....

Triple wall pipe will allow you to keep the shields lower that ceiling height if you run the TW from the stove all the way to the top of the vent. Being a modular you shouldn't have to buy much TW pipe. How much slope on the roof??


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## Basementgeek

This is one of the sites I looked at:

DuraPlus Manufactured Home Chimney System Kit - 6" Diameter | WoodlandDirect.com: Chimney Systems

BG


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## wolfen1086

SABL said:


> Are those the actual wall shields that I see in the photos?? Can you stand them up and recheck clearances?? I'm not sure if you have enough height on the shields.....
> 
> Triple wall pipe will allow you to keep the shields lower that ceiling height if you run the TW from the stove all the way to the top of the vent. Being a modular you shouldn't have to buy much TW pipe. How much slope on the roof??



Yes those are wall shields, the only reason they are laying down is so the are easier to pick up and move when I tile the floor area, if I stand them up I only need 10" of triple wall inside the house. I will have single wall stove pipe to the top of the heat shield, triple wall stove pipe after that through the ceiling and out the roof, there isn't much slope on my roof at all, measuring form ceiling to roof top through the hole my oil furnace goes through is only 16"

But I just found out from a dealer here locally that I'm screwed anyway, I gotts buy all new triple wall cause the manufacturer I have nobody has parts for...imagine that..... Lowe's has it but only in 6' and I paid $21 for a adapter today at a high end parts store, and later found out the guy ripped me off cause theres no returns and the pos adapter doesn't even fit a dam 8" triple wall pipe. And the guy I talked to at another store flat out told me not to buy from anywhere but a hardware store since everybody is a rip off. So basically I might as well pack up and be a homeless family in Florida cause if I had the money to buy all the crap I need to replace what I have...hell....I'd fill my oil tank.


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## SABL

8" TW is going to be $$$$.......I'm seeing the 6" @ ~$50 per foot. Might want to check with a wood stove dealer and stay away from home improvement stores.....I find the home improvement stores are often more expensive. Check your area for wood stove dealers.


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## wolfen1086

There are no actual wood stove dealers in my area. there a re a few places that deal with fireplaces, but when I say " wood stove" they all say " call this number......" and tell me to have a nice day. but now I have an even bigger problem, we went to Lowe's to look at Stove pipe and I found out something that made my heart sink to th bottom of my butt, the piece that bolts to the top of the wood stove has an opening of 6 5/8" inner dia. And since I can't fit a square peg in a round hole what can I do besides take the heater back down to my neighbor and watch my family freeze to death this winter?


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## Basementgeek

About $800.00 for a six foot install for a Manufactured Home, 8inch pipe.

DuraPlus Manufactured Home Chimney System Kit - 8" Dia. | WoodlandDirect.com: Chimney Systems

BG


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## wolfen1086

I wish I had the money to get that, right now its payday and I have a whooping $200 left after paying the minimum bills I could  Besides I stall have the whole 6 5/8" problem to deal with.


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## SABL

I don't know why the fireplace people can't help....unless they deal in nothing but gas fireplaces. I installed a zero clearance wood burning fireplace when I built my house and it takes the same pipe that your stove will need. 

A sheet metal fabricator should be able to make an adaptor to take up the slack between the 7" (6 5/8" ID) and the 8" pipe.....all it takes is a reducer. 

I'll take a look at some suppliers when I get a chance......but the real issue seems to be the overall cost of the project. This stuff isn't cheap!!


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## wolfen1086

Why cant they help? simple around here the only people who go to fireplace stores are the rich ones, so all they can do is tell me to go buy a new wood heater that they have parts for, so I will start making my own collar for it. Since I'm considered a poor person most of this city couldn't care if I'm alive or dead unless they want something fixed or somebody to pay their way for them.
I called Ray Johnson's today and told them that I needed to swap out the part for one that fits, the guy asked what size it is, I told him he said he had one, when I got to the store he ever so conveniently didn't have one but he could sell me a new stove for $1800. I returned the pos I bought and told them 'd never darken their doorway again.


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## Basementgeek

Strange, I find nothing doing a goggle search for your stove.

You are a welder, can't you make one?

BG


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## wolfen1086

I'm not certified. But yea I Am a welder, I have been welding most of my life, just never took the certification tests.
Tomorrow I will bring home some strap steel and a plate that I'll custom cut to the size I need then I'll tack it together finish weld it and paint it with High Temp grill paint. If it works I'll make a few spares.


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## wolfen1086

OK guys heres an update on the heater. 
This is what it will look like with the stove pipe installed
http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/695/withpipe1.jpg
The collar I made is between the stove pipe and the heater, the bottom is 7' od and fits snugly the upper section is 8 1/32" od and fits sung, both sections will be sealed tight as a drum when I finally am finished.

This is what it looks like with the stove board attached to the walls.
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/9987/stoveboardhung.jpg
The boards I placed 1.5 Inches away instead of 1" and 1.5" up from the floor. the stove sits 8" up off of the floor so I will be good with the 1.5 for ventilation according to the guy who used to install them for a living I found a man who installs them living not even a block away from me, he was walking down teh street and asked what I was doing with a trailer load of wood, so I told him and he looked everything over and said I'm good 

More pics and updates are on the way guys, I still need to fabricate the bracket to hold th Chimney pipe in the ceiling, but thats the easy part, its the firebrick cement mixing and the tiling that is hard for me, but I guess I'm about to learn how to do that too huh?
I bought a roll of flashing material for the roof after looking at a pic on the Internet of the flashing around a chimney pipe, I know I can make one better so I got a 50' roll of flashing and a box of self taping screw along with a gallon can of roof tar.

I should be inspected by the city home inspector and signed off and up and running this coming week


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## Wrench97

The Curtain bothers me, when material(wood, fabric, Etc) are heated over time it lowers the combustion temp of the material.


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## wolfen1086

Don't worry about the curtain even though its "fire proof" it will be removed and the window will have a metal blind on it instead. Something about the words fire proof I can just visualize that being the first thing to catch on fire


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## Basementgeek

I hope you are using insulated pipe from the stove to the ceiling .

BG


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## wolfen1086

Nope single wall to the ceiling, from the ceiling to the roof MUST be a minimum of double wall, I have 8" Metalbestos Double wall rated at 1200 deg, and above the roof I'm on my own and I can do what I please, as long as I'm 10\2, which is ten feet away fro and obstacle and two feet above the crest of the roof


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## Basementgeek

Looking at the pic, in your fist post, the heat shield may need be go clear to the ceiling.
A single layer pipe will get as hot as the stove.

BG


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## wolfen1086

Ya I thought of that too, but sine I have a 16" distance between the ceiling and roof, and 48" of Chimney pipe I thing I'll hang it down a little to insulate the ceiling


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## Pia Hudspeth

Basementgeek said:


> I know you don't want to hear this,but call your home owners insurance first.
> 
> They have a real problem with you installing a wood heater.
> 
> BG


I can't agree more.


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## Basementgeek

I am talking about protecting the walls. A single layer stove pipe has to have the same clearance as the stove it self.

BG


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## wolfen1086

Basementgeek said:


> Looking at the pic, in your fist post, the heat shield may need be go clear to the ceiling.
> A single layer pipe will get as hot as the stove.
> 
> BG


I measured the distance again and f red on pipe to wall is at manufacturers specs. I h as d to move it out more to clear the curling rafters. Now instead of 34" I have 38"


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## wolfen1086

Heres a pic of the heater totally installed. All I need now is the city's mechanic as l inspection which happens Monday.

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n513/Ken_Hummell/Snapbucket/0345D2D1-orig.jpg

The curt as old will be removed from that window also. It's "fire retardant" but we all know what That means.


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## Basementgeek

Keep us posted.

BG


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## wolfen1086

Will do boss. I Did find one minor leak. Not in the roof but about e'er te the try lot pipe slides into the double wall. I se as led the area with 2400deg sealant. I use 2400deg simply because if the heater ever gets that hot. We e'er into be in the house 


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## wolfen1086

OK guys here's today's update. The inspector came out and "on the record" failed the heater only because the city lied to me when they said I could instal one. He said there are No wood heaters approved for mobile homes in Virginia. In know for a fact this is crap because out of 300 people in my neighborhood I'm one of 80 who didn't have a wood heater until now. Plus I can move just about anywhere and do what I want on my own properrty.
BUT... here's the kicker. He said "on the record" my work looked better then 99% of what he's seen out of contractors.
"Off The RECORD" he said to go down town and cancel the ticket. And to lie to them and say I can't afford to finish it. And come back home And light it off and that I'm on my own. But that after his inspection it is "off the record" "safe to use" and it's my property not the city's. So I am at home burning off that "newness" that makes the paint smoke. It's 70 outside. And 90 in here right now with al the door and window open another chimney pipe is No more than warm to the touch.
I think I win. But if I Juan the house down because of the beater the ins won't cover it. I say what's new the oil furnace is way too clseto all the walls too and he flat out said I'm safer with the wood heater than the oil furnace in a closet where it is. But since the oiginal oil furnace didn't get inspected the ins won't cover the house if that. Burns it down either
6 of one half a dozen of another right? I feel safer with the wood heater cause know the quality of work I did putting it in


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## SABL

Well........you passed and failed at the same time. The inspector had to follow the book and "red tag" the project due to mobile home status......he just covered his own rear-end on that one. Your install looks much better than many I have seen.......but keep tabs on the temps of the surrounding materials.


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## wolfen1086

Believe me boss I am doing just that, so far I've had the heater so hot the rest of the ( I've never been run before) burnt off of it, and at 39 deg outside it was 75 inside, and the wall weer still touchable  Behind the Stove board was dead cold too, so what I'm thinking about doing is placing more stove board above whats already there all th way to the ceiling, just for the overkill effect I usually do.

SABL...thanks for the compliment brother, I do my best work here at home AND at work, its not a pride thing or a way of life, its just how I was raised.

Oh and let the laughter begin guess what I did this morning......
0 coffee in me it was 4am I lit the stove off, using oak and stupid me had Maple under it as kindling, after about 10 minutes I was still cold, so I open the doors to see what was up, remember I said no coffee yet? well I left the dam damper closed and all that smoke rose up to meet me in the face. When I got to work my superintendent smelled me and asked if I was getting ready for my afterlife


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## WereBo

Hehehehehe.... :laugh:

If it was Pine-smoke, you could always explain it as either drinking a mug of 'Lapsang Souchong tea', or spilling it over yourself - It's better to drink it though, it's a great way to wake up in the morning :grin:


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## wolfen1086

Which reminds me to go dig up some sasaphrase roots for tea, thanks brother, I would ahev forgotten if you hadn't reminded me.

Oh another update guys, last night at 2300 I added two White Oak 16" split pieces of wood and this morning even thought eh fire was out the heater was still warm at 0500 
AND I have learned how to properly set up the kindling for light off in this particular model of stove 



I feel smart


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## WereBo

You're more than welcome... I just had a quick Google for sassafras and discovered it was the major flavouring for 'Root beer' (The only thing that McDonalds used to sell that I enjoyed :laugh - It's known as 'Sarsaparilla' over here, which is a very excellent and refreshing cordial :grin:


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## wolfen1086

Another question, does anybody know where I could possibly find the owners or users manual for this beast?
It works fine no parts are needed, I just like having manuals. ya know ?


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## SABL

I can't even find a listing for the beastie......let alone a manual. All I find are BBQ grills......you sure that thing is a wood burner and not a smoker??.....:laugh:


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## wolfen1086

Yep LOL Although if I close the damper 3/4 of the way I could smoke a ham with oak  I emailed the company that had then listed, waiting now for a response, but I DID get a response from a company called England up in Monroe Virginia, they said that HUD requires all wood stoves in mobile homes or manufactured homes to have a outside air supple for them. But this drafty old double Wide gets PLENTY of outside air coming in.....trust me.

But just in case HUD ever starts inspecting houses under the new socialist govt, I'm gonna install a outside air intake.


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## Wrench97

Usually HUD is only involved if you rent it out under Section 8.


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## Wrench97

Found the contact info for you, how's your Chinese?


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## wolfen1086

wrench97 said:


> Usually HUD is only involved if you rent it out under Section 8.


Yep, but here in Virginia, the govt does what it wants, so they say what they want and my only option is to rely on the Freedom of the Constitution while its still around



wrench97 said:


> Found the contact info for you, how's your Chinese?


Sux, But thanks, I might have a translator program somewhere. If nothing else I can Google them and email em


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## Wrench97

Didn't a web address or email address, appears they don't have a web site only a phone contact, I'm thinking these were probably imported by someone northern tool or wally world.


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## wolfen1086

Yea I noticed that, I'll probably call the Canadian place tomorrow just in case cause the only Chinese words I know all star5t with Obama


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## wolfen1086

Apparently before my last post I DID email the correct company, I just got an email from them telling me they stopped making that model 30 years ago and have no parts or manuals, but the woman DID know what I was talking about because she has one in here house that has been running for 30 years 
Maybe if I can ever afford it I'll replace it with a modern one.


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## SABL

Sometimes the newer ones aren't as good.....


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## Basementgeek

SABL is correct, but basically all you have is a fancy pot belly stove.

I remember as a kid the one we had in our garage, it could run you out of the place.

BG


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## SABL

I remember going to my grampa's back in the 60's.....small 1 1/2 story farm house with a big pot-belly stove in the living room. Stoked with lump coal and the only source of heat....sure got cold in some areas of the house!!

I bet not too many have smelled (or remember) the "aroma" of a coal fire......:grin:


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## Basementgeek

Every once in awhile I can smell that someone is burning coal in their house. It does bring back memories of the 50's.

I spent a lot of time down in the hills of south eastern Ohio, close to the river and the 2 story house had two heat sources, the big wood burning cook stove, that never went out and a coal heater in the living room.
Up stairs was always freezing. But they had a bed warmer we used.

Never had to worry about the water pipes freezing, there weren't any. Neat house, it had two bathrooms, one in the front yard and one really old one in the back.

BG


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## wolfen1086

Basementgeek said:


> SABL is correct, but basically all you have is a fancy pot belly stove.
> 
> I remember as a kid the one we had in our garage, it could run you out of the place.
> 
> BG


Yep Pot Belly stoves will burn you out of the house in a matter of minutes, the last time I lit it off the newspaper alone made the top of it too hot to touch 



SABL said:


> Sometimes the newer ones aren't as good.....


yea, now if I can just keep playing with it and get it to burn all night (5 hours max) I've tried everything except closing the front off completely, thats next.


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## Basementgeek

You really need to keep a visible flame all the time. Don't close it down to far.

BG


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## wolfen1086

Yea I've tried that too, I'm starting to think the max burn time is about 4 hours, BUT I do feel stupid, today I came home and made a good fire, there was a coal bed thick enough to start the kindling without newspaper, so I had the living rom hot as hell, but the hallway and bedrooms were dead cold, WHY? dummy me forgot to turn on the ceiling fans. now I'm sitting here with two box fans, one behind the heater and one at the end of the hallway blowing heat down the hall to the bedrooms where the ceiling fans are picking it up and carrying it into the rooms


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## Basementgeek

4 hours sounds about right, you will learn

You will really don't want just a smoldering "fire".

BG


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## SABL

I haven't lit the fireplace for 10yrs.....but I used to bank the embers before going to bed and use the poker when I got up in the morning to restart the fire without kindling.


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## wolfen1086

Basementgeek said:


> 4 hours sounds about right, you will learn
> 
> You will really don't want just a smoldering "fire".
> 
> BG


Yep and I will remember too, we didn't have indoor running water or electricity till I was 14, and after that we used wood heat till I left for the Navy, so you'd think I'd remember this stuff off of the top of my head wouldn't you?
But I seem to have forgotten a lot,. like only split the wood into 1/4's, not real user friendly pieces that fit 20 in a bucket 
Although those little pieces make good kindling.


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## SABL

And......no pine!! Pine is fine for a campfire....not good for anything that has a chimney or flue.


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## wolfen1086

That my friend is one thing I will NEVER forget.
My personal rule is no pine or parts of pine in my heater, not even a needle stuck to a piece of kindling. I have had people tell me that a Pine cone will light the hell out of my kindling really fast, I just tell them I like my house I'll do it the old fashioned way.
Pine is for building, not burning


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## bruiser

Good ol' hickory.


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## Basementgeek

I will admit using some pine to start a fire, always old scraps of lumber.

BG


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## wolfen1086

I use hardwood pallets, split them down to 1/4 x 1/4 and about 6" long and stack em, they burn off better than a started log full of gasoline


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## Basementgeek

1/4 x 1/4 in, that is small ! Never had a problem with using a little pine to start a fire.

BG


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## wolfen1086

Really? what part? Cones or needles or wood? 
The reason I cut everything down that small for kindling is (1) stress relief (2) starts easy using less newspaper (3) less smoke than rolled up newspaper out the stack.
But I'm always in for new ways to save time and money, just as long as it doesn't burn down my house. Especially since I pay homeowners insurance for nothing.


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## SABL

A little Pine for kindling (or small quantities to get rid of scrap) is not bad......not enough pitch to make a great deal of trouble. You just don't want to burn Pine constantly......get creosote build-up in the flue/chimney. My dad mixed wood and burned Pine or whatever he could get......burned the Christmas tree one year and had flames shooting out the 20' chimney when the build-up caught fire......

Most pallets I've seen are Oak......makes a nice hot fire.


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## wolfen1086

Thanks man I have Pine trees on my property, nice to know I can use something that burns hot to light it off with. pallets around here are all made of hardwood, but some are treated with chemicals, so those I don't use. but yea oak pallets make a real hot fire.


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## wolfen1086

Well I found out something about my heater last week that I have been experimenting with until now, if I take out the $9 wood rack I bought for it I have total control of the air flow and more control over the heating ability


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## wolfen1086

Found out something else since the last post on this thread, fans on the floor are totally useless, I hung one upside down from the ceiling and that thing hauls heat from the living room all the way back to the master bath


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