# Trying to get an idea of price...



## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

I know absolutely nothing about building a computer; I've only ever bought pre-built ones. My current computer is getting up there in years, now, and I'm kinda looking for something new.

I'm thinking maybe building it myself is the better way to go, rather than getting something pre-built, but I want to get an idea of the price I can expect to pay, total.

As far as my needs, I'm not particularly interested in gaming, so that's not super important to me (well, I'd like to be able to play some basic stuff, like the Telltale Games Walking Dead series). I am, however, interested in doing a lot of video editing, and whatnot.

I'd kind of prefer to stay as low cost as I possibly can, without drifting into overly cheap and unreliable parts.

So can anyone give me a proper idea of how much I should expect to spend, total?


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## Old Rich (May 31, 2007)

Have a look thru our recommendations here:

http://www.techsupportforum.com/forums/f255/tsf-hardware-teams-recommended-builds-2014-a-668661.html


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

Any recommendation as to which of those would be good for video editing?

Also, do they make optical drives that can play blu ray, for desktops? That would be kind of nice to have, but I know there's apparently a ton of security on blu ray, so maybe that's not possible?


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

What is the budget your thinking of as that will impact on what is available for instance the Intel $800 build should work and yes you can get blue ray http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...tronics,1065&rh=n:172282,k:blue+ray+player+pc


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

joeten said:


> What is the budget your thinking of as that will impact on what is available


Heh, honestly, I'm kinda doing that backwards; I don't have a very high level of income, so I don't really know what my "budget" would be. Generally speaking, I get kinda nervous spending more than $400 on any one given thing, but I do understand that I probably wouldn't be able to get away with making something decent, as far as PCs go, for that little amount of money. I definitely wouldn't want to spend more than $1000, but I'd still prefer to spend as little as possible, so make of that what you will.

Will any of those internal blu ray drives be compatible with any of these linked setups?


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

There should be no issue using a blue ray. I would imagine that if your video editing etc. You would need a decent graphics card and a reasonable amount of ram, but you would most likely no more about that part than me. All the recommended builds are chosen for reliability,compatibility, and reasonable longevity, but nothing is set in stone and you can tweak around parts to try to suit your needs. If you have some ideas put forward your questions and someone will try to assist and answer your questions.


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

Okay, looking at the Intel $800 build, and I have a couple questions. Back in 2010, I had bought and installed a new PSU and graphics card in my current PC because I was previously interested in doing more gaming. From what I can tell, I think the PSU I have is the same one listed in the $800. These two are the same, correct?

SeaSonic S12II - Newegg
SeaSonic S12II - Amazon

I'm also curious, would my graphics card, the GTX 460 (this is the exact card I have) be compatible with the Intel $800 build?

If so, that would probably save me a couple of hundred bucks, which would be nice. Granted, both the PSU and the graphics card are nearing four years old, at this point... Would it be better to replace them based on wear and tear alone, or should they generally continue holding up into the future?


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

joeten said:


> I would imagine that if your video editing etc. You would need a decent graphics card and a reasonable amount of ram, but you would most likely no more about that part than me.


Heh, yeah, I guess, I dunno, like I said, I'm not super smart when it comes to the technical stuff. My current pre-built computer, which has 4GB of RAM and a GTX 460 graphics card, can generally render videos fine, but it can take a long time. I've just been wondering if a higher spec'd build might make rendering, and whatnot, go a bit faster.

I know what I'm about to say is probably getting into questionable territory, but I don't mean it as such; one thing I also want to do is convert a lot of my DVDs and blu rays to a digital format, so that I can watch them whenever without having to swap disks. I use HandBrake to encode all these videos, and I was wondering if a better spec'd build would also make my HandBrake "ripping" go a bit faster than it does.


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

Hi ok the psu is now 4 years old so could be getting near its end of life thereby not producing power as well as it did previously, the one thing you don't want to do is skimp on the power supply.
If memory serves the gpu in the $800 build is the 750ti so here you can see the difference between the two card GeForce GTX 750 Ti vs 460
With a newer card you should see some increase in conversion.


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## MPR (Aug 28, 2010)

There is nothing wrong with reusing parts if it saves you money and doesn't significantly degrade system performance.

As long as you don't add a video card that requires more than a 500 W PSU (such as the 560 Ti) your current PSU can be reused. However, if you wish to use a new top-tier card like the GTX 780 then a new 650-750 W PSU is recommended.

The GTX 460 also can be used in any new built that has a decent 450 W or higher PSU (as you do). While it's no longer considered a "top-tier" card, the GTX 460 will still give adequate FPS in games set on moderate graphics settings.

Can you download and run Speccy then go to File > Publish snapshot and link the report here? This will give information on your current system and allow for better upgrade advice.


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

The Op is more oriented toward video editing and conversion


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

MPR said:


> Can you download and run [URL="[/URL] then go to File > Publish snapshot and link the report here? This will give information on your current system and allow for better upgrade advice.


It's telling me the free version of that has "No support", and I see no option to download anything other than the paid version.

Either way, the only things I ever upgraded on my current system are the PSU and the graphics card (well, I also upped the RAM from 3 GB to 4). The rest is all the original parts that came in this pre-built HP machine from, like, 2009.


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

Try from here Download Speccy 1.26.698 - FileHippo.com


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

Okay, this is what it pulled up as my system specs (like I said, this was an average pre-built machine from HP, from back in 2009):

Operating System
- Windows 8.1 Pro with Media Center 32-bit
CPU
- Intel Pentium E5200 @ 2.50GHz: 40 °C
- Wolfdale 45nm Technology
RAM
- 4.00GB Dual-Channel DDR2 @ 399MHz (6-6-6-18)
Motherboard
- PEGATRON CORPORATION Benicia (CPU 1): 42 °C
Graphics
- X183H ([email protected])
- 767MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 460 (EVGA): 43 °C
Storage
- 298GB Hitachi HDT721032SLA380 (SATA): 37 °C
- 1396GB Western Digital WD My Book 1110 USB Device (USB (SATA)): 34 °C
Optical Drives
- HL-DT-ST DVD-RAM GH40L
- WD Virtual CD 1110 USB Device
Audio
- Realtek High Definition Audio


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

Asus or Gigabyte Mobo's for quality, reliability and support.
You'll want to go with a 2x4GB matched pair of RAM for video work.
Your PSU is a top quality unit but, considering it's age, I would be more than hesitant to suggest using it in a new build.
A USB optical drive will be slower than an internal unit.


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

Agreed on the external drive, and the psu. The internal option on the blue ray seems a fair and reasonable possibilty.


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## gcavan (Aug 13, 2009)

> Your PSU is a top quality unit but, considering it's age, I would be more than hesitant to suggest using it in a new build.


Why would you suggest replacing a four year old S12II? It should be still under the manufacturers warranty.


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

gcavan said:


> Why would you suggest replacing a four year old S12II? It should be still under the manufacturers warranty.


So, what, contact them and see if they'd replace it for a new one, even though nothing is wrong with it? Eh, might be kind of a moot point, anyway, because if I end up building a new machine, I might be giving my current computer to someone else, so I wouldn't be able to strip it for parts, anyway.

Looking at potentially going with the Intel $800 build, but looking at the case for it, it occurs to me, I need something with at least a total of 4 USB ports. Doesn't matter if they're 3.0 or not (though it'd be nice to have at least one 3.0 port), but I need one for my external hard drive, one for my wireless mouse/ keyboard receiver, and two more for some of the video stuff I do. Is there another (similarly priced) case with more ports that will work, or is there some other option?


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## MPR (Aug 28, 2010)

Most new cases will only have two USB 3.0 ports on the front panel but motherboards have more internal ports. All motherboards have several rear USB ports too -- the Asus Z97-A has six (4 x USB 3.0 and 2 x USB 2.0).


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## gcavan (Aug 13, 2009)

@indestruct: I don't have a problem with purchasing a new power supply for your new system. My issue is with the suggestion of replacing an item for no other reason than its age.

Re trying to get the S12II replaced under warranty: Best case, they replace it with a recon'd, four (or more) year old S12II.


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## janesman2007 (Feb 11, 2007)

joeten said:


> Agreed on the external drive, and the psu. The internal option on the blue ray seems a fair and reasonable possibilty.


There is no problems with internal BlueRay players or burners, I have a BR burner in my newest desktop built 2 years ago, and it works great although I haven't done any BR burning, just dvd. The best thing about them (BR units), other than mega storage, they also burn dvd's n cd's too.


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

The psu being 4 years old and having no real knowledge of how heavily used I err on the side of caution.


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## pcafterdark (Apr 3, 2008)

To get an idea of price, you need to have an idea of what you want. If you are trying to save money and not break the bank you need to pick items that are the best bang for the buck, instead of looking at "the best components" 

You need to choose where you wish to be in a processor first. Celeron's are the entry level, then Pentium, i3, I5 and i7. The Pentium is really a good performer, but the i3 gives you hyperthreading and is a good midrange processor. the i5 is the step to Quad Core and is a great performer and gives more longevity and is still quite a bit less than the i7. 

Sure the Z97 chipsets are the better or higher end chipset, but the B85 chipset, like the ASUS B85M-G is a good mid-range chipset that supports up to 32GB for about 50.00 less and is a good performing board.

a decent 500 watt power supply is fine. you don't have to bread the bank with a 750 or larger. a ThrermalTake Versa case has good ventilation at a reasonable price, You don't need a GTX 750 or even a 650 for video editing necessarily, these cards were geared to high frame rates for gaming. the onboard video is pretty good these days to. Depending on how graphic intense your video editing is, you may be able to use a good 2GB GT630 video card for your needs and cut a couple hundred dollars off that gaming card. 

How much memory? more is better, but you only get benefit of more memory if you are working your computer. 4 or 8 Gb is enough for most people, Memory is not expensive, and with 4 slots, you can add as you go if it is not. you get better (but not blazing difference with dual channel) but you wouldn't probably see a difference with one piece of 8GB running in single channel mode. add a second and you get dual channel when you are ready for 16Gb and you still have two slots open if you need to eventually get to 32GB.

Solid State hard drives are blazing in speed, but still expensive, especially for the better performing ones. all SSD's are not created equal. around a 256GB is a good size, but for a nice one you can expect to pay over 200 just for the drive where a good standard SATA drive will cost you under a 100.00 if I need more storage then I can afford in an SSD, then Seagate's 1 and 2 TB drives with 64MB Cache are good performers at a bargain price.

Do you need an operating system or are you going to use what you own? that can make 100.00 difference or more depending on edition. We still sell both Windows 7 or 8. no price difference, just an option.

Most systems come with a DVD-RW, Blu-Ray adds to the price. most software is downloadable these days and DVD drives are being used less and less. Blu-Ray has not moved into the mainstream yet, and many are claiming DVD's will disappear eventually just because of the high bandwidth speeds of the internet and so much available on-line. Do you need Blu-Ray for your video editing?

Narrow some of these options and I can get you a pretty close estimate of what it will cost you to build one. Don't expect to save a ton on building your own, but you won't get one of the big computer companies cut corners on your computer. You will be able to save some money though. Don't fall for the nice i5 prebuilt that is cheap, because the i5 was the only decent quality part in the computer.

deciding some of these will narrow where you will fall in price. Choosing some of your preferences and you can get a closer estimate in price. you can spend 400.00 to 800.00 and still build a good performing, reliable computer. you either need to decide what your budge is, and then configure what you can buy to get the best for your money, or decide what you need in hardware and see how much money you need to get what you want.


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

Well, I decided to just go ahead and buy all the stuff for the $800 Intel build. I assume that should last me a good while, and I also assume that, in the future, it probably has enough flexibility that I could probably just upgrade individual parts as I need it, right?

My question now, is how easy is it to actually put a computer together? I remember when I installed my new PSU on my current machine, it was so daunting that I essentially disconnected the connectors from the old one and then connected the connectors from the new one, one by one, so that I'd remember what plugged into what.

Oh, also. I decided to buy a new monitor to go along with it, and I got one that can connect via HDMI. When I first get everything all set up, can I connect it via HDMI and have it start working that way right away, or do I have to connect it via VGA first, then switch something in the settings, then reconnect with the HDMI? I guess what I'm asking is, will it automatically detect the display connection, or will I have to set that up manually?


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## MPR (Aug 28, 2010)

Newegg TV: How To Build a Computer - Part 2 - The Build - YouTube


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

You will get a manual with the motherboard, which has everything marked out between that and the above video provided by MPR, you should get it built fairly easily. But your right it does seem daunting at first, just take your time.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

As noted above, the Mobo will come with a manual. Read it thoroughly to familiarize yourself with the connections. Bench test prior to installing any components in the case and you should be fine. If you have any questions/problems, post them here and we will assist you.


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## janesman2007 (Feb 11, 2007)

Building your own pc the first time is a very daunting experience, it was for my first time, I have now built several, it gets easier each time. One thing I started doing with the second build was a step by step approach. I lay everything out, making sure everything needed is there and start, I barely need instructions anymore. I first install the cpu and heat sink onto the mb then install the memory to the board, then install the board in the case and install the ps, power on the unit, listen for beeps, make note of what beeps you hear, different mb's have different beeps to determine what means what. All your really testing for here is that the ram is working and the unit powers up and there are no beeps telling you something is amiss. then just install the hdd, dvd drive and video card. Power up again, at this point I wouldn't even have a monitor connected yet, I'm just listening for the post beeps again, if all goes well here, shut the unit back down, hookup your monitor, put a little pin in the hole to open your dvd drive and put in the os disk, there you go, boot to disk and format the drive using the os disk. Its really that simple. Once I have all the necessary parts, the build takes me less than an hour. Installing everything else can take a couple of days for my builds, just because of all the programs I have to install and configure and updates, plus I always dual boot windows and linux, I'm real picky. Except for gaming and some video work I like Linux over Windows any day.


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

So just out of curiosity, as far as video editing, etc., goes, how does the $800 Intel build compare, spec-wise, to the average Mac? I know Macs are often the professional "standard" for that kind of thing, and I do have experience using a Mac to edit via Final Cut Pro. 

I once pondered on one day investing in a Mac, but seeing as this is also going to be for personal use (and I'm not much of a fan of Macs if I don't have to use them), I wanted to stay on Windows. I guess I just wonder how good Macs are, spec-wise, for their price, or if the higher price is more the typical "Apple premium" you pay for the name brand.


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

Excited to try my hand at building, but I assume I won't get my stuff until later in the week. I took the cheapest shipping from NewEgg, which was 4-7 business days, so I may not get the stuff until late this week or even early next week. :/

In the meantime, I have some other questions not really related to building this PC, and I'd rather ask them here then make new topics for them.

For one, once my new computer is up and running, I'm going to be giving my current PC to a family member. They're not going to want to spend the money on a new hard drive/ fresh copy of Windows, and I want to get all my personal info and documents, and everything, off of this machine. What's the easiest way to do that without just removing/ destroying the hard drive? I also don't have any kind of install disk for Windows, because when Windows 7, 8, and 8.1 came out, I upgraded digitally. Did I hear right that you can do a factory reset on Windows 8/ 8.1 without needing the install disk? Would that wipe all the data/ documents out and start it completely fresh?

I'm also interested in eventually setting up a NAS, but I want something that works with the media server program called Plex, because it's essentially going to be a server I can stream my movies to my various devices in my home. I've done a little bit of research, but it seems like a NAS costs a few hundred bucks, which often doesn't even factor in the price of the drive itself. Does anyone know of any good Plex-compatible NAS/ drive combos that will keep my closer to the $200 price range? Or is it simply not possible to find something for that low?


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

Hi, if you have an external HDD you could move your stuff to it. 
This should cover your question the win 8 question How to refresh, reset or restore your PC - Windows Help


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

Oh, no, my stuff is already backed up, I'm not worried about any of that. I just don't want any traces of my personal information, etc., left on the computer.


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## janesman2007 (Feb 11, 2007)

indestructible said:


> Oh, no, my stuff is already backed up, I'm not worried about any of that. I just don't want any traces of my personal information, etc., left on the computer.


i don't think you can wipe any drive completely without using some military program to wipe it, even a novice can use programs like "getmydataback" to search for remnants on your hdd, most people won 't look that hard though. there might be other programs other than those with military specs that might work good too, someone here in the forum might know about those.


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## gcavan (Aug 13, 2009)

I use:
Eraser | Internet Security and Privacy

Free, open source.
Allows you to securely erase selected files and folders without touching the operating system and installed applications. Also will erases any previously deleted files, etc.
Comes with a scheduler to allow for unattended operation.


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## Tyree (May 10, 2009)

I've been a user of Eraser for years (I include it will all my retail builds also) and it appears to do a good job but I've never had a reason to attempt recovery.


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

Alright, cool. I'll look into that.

So, my new monitor arrived today, but my computer parts won't be arriving until tomorrow (at least, that's what my delivery estimate is). Getting antsy, heh...

Oh, something I didn't really think about before... When I bought all the parts for the $800 Intel build, I didn't think about it, but am I supposed to buy fans/ cooling parts, as well? Or do I not really need anything extra other than the parts I ordered?


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## gcavan (Aug 13, 2009)

The processor comes with a heatsink/fan assembly which is adequate in most instances. In your original statement of requirements (post 1) you mention that gaming is not a priority, so you probably will not need to replace this with an aftermarket unit.

The power supply has its own fan; no worries there.

The NZXT Source 210 case comes with a 120mm and a 140mm fans mounted on the rear and top. You may decide later to add one (or two) 120 mm fans (as intake) on the front.

PS: If you have not already done so, you might download and read the manuals for your components, especially that of the motherboard and case.


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

Whew. After about 4-5 hours, I finally got my machine all assembled! Sad thing is, I'm so exhausted that I don't think I'll even boot it up tonight, and I'll probably wait until tomorrow to do that. @[email protected]

Seemed to go okay, as far as I can tell, I did everything the right way, so crossing my fingers all will be well. Guess I'll find out tomorrow!


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

It gets easier to do once you get a little more confidence, Don't be put off if you encounter a problem we all have, and still do even with years of doing it. We all make simple errors sometimes.


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

Heh, I'll keep that in mind.

Quick question. When I boot up for the first time, should my monitor be connected to the output on the dedicated graphics card, or do I need to connect to the onboard video out, then "install" the dedicated card first?


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

I would install the operating system first with the onboard and get your drivers for the motherboard etc installed, but in truth it would work either way.


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## gcavan (Aug 13, 2009)

If it is already installed, use the discrete card.


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

gcavan said:


> If it is already installed, use the discrete card.


If by installed, you mean physically, on the motherboard, yeah.

I just remember on my old prebuilt, when I bought a graphics card and installed it after having used the onboard video card for a while, I had to install the drivers, then change a setting (possibly in the BIOS? I can't recall...) to make it output from the new card. Just wondered how it worked when you've built it all yourself and haven't booted up for the first time.


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

Most times now when you install a graphics card the onboard switches off automatically, but you still need to install the driver for the new card.


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## janesman2007 (Feb 11, 2007)

the video card will still work with default drivers from the os install until you install the card drivers, mine always did.


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

Okay, so everything seems to be in order, but I can't figure out how to connect to the internet. I have my Ethernet plugged in, but Windows is telling me there are no connections available.

Edit: Whoops, my bad, I forgot I had a disk from the motherboard with drivers to install.


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

LOL we have all done that just take your time and you will get it all done, so far you're doing well.


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## janesman2007 (Feb 11, 2007)

Device manager telling you that everything is installed, motherboard drivers esp?


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

janesman2007 said:


> Device manager telling you that everything is installed, motherboard drivers esp?


Not really sure how to access Device Manager on Windows 8. I had been wondering about that on my old computer, as well. Perhaps I just don't know how to get into it? Or perhaps they've done away with Device Manager on 8 in favor of a different settings UI? Not really sure what to look for to make sure everything is as it should be.

But thus far, now that I've ran my install disks, everything seems to be working correctly. I have Internet, I have sound, my display looks good. 

On a side note, I'm super happy how well Chrome synced everything for me for my browser; I expected I'd have to do a little bit of work to get it all set up again, but nope, I just logged into Chrome and it restored all my bookmarks and extensions, and whatnot.


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

Just ask when you don't know someone will try to help Where is Device Manager? - Windows Help


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

Here is a little book (free) to help you get to grips with win 8


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

joeten said:


> Just ask when you don't know someone will try to help  is Device Manager? - Windows Help[/url




Huh. I swear when I typed in "Device Manager" in the search before, it didn't pull anything up except some other Windows settings. That's weird. Pulled it up now, though. So how do I know, by looking at Device Manager, if everything is as it should be? I don't see any yellow "!" triangles anywhere, if that's what I'm supposed to be looking for.


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

If you have no red X or yellow triangles your fine.


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

Alright, well everything seems to be working great, it's just a matter of getting all my old software reinstalled and everything.

Quick question, I still have to restore my old PC before I give it away; when I restore it, is it going to ask me for the product key? When I upgraded to Windows 8, I just did it digitally, so if I have to have the key, it's going to be filed away in an old e-mail that I'll have to dig through. @[email protected]


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## MPR (Aug 28, 2010)

You will* need the product key to do a Windows 8 reset. Also, the new owner should be given the original Windows 7 disks and product key as well as the Windows 8 upgrade product key. A Windows 8 upgrade is tied to the previous Windows version's license.

* Well, perhaps this should be "may" depending on your system. Some systems will store the product key in the BIOS and some will not.


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

MPR said:


> You will* need the product key to do a Windows 8 reset. Also, the new owner should be given the original Windows 7 disks and product key as well as the Windows 8 upgrade product key. A Windows 8 upgrade is tied to the previous Windows version's license.
> 
> * Well, perhaps this should be "may" depending on your system. Some systems will store the product key in the BIOS and some will not.


See, when I first got my previous computer, it was running Windows Vista. When both Windows 7 and 8 came out, I downloaded the updates, so I never had any disk for either upgrade. I know the old Vista sticker with the key on it is still on the old computer, but I don't know if that counts for anything? I guess I'll have to dig through my e-mails to see if I can find the Windows 8 code. v_v

Edit: Wow, Gmail searching made the process extremely easy. Found the Windows 8 product code. lol I guess you never realize how efficient these services are until something like this comes up.


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

Outlook is pretty good at it too.


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

Restoring my old computer is turning out to be much more of a headache than I had anticipated... I tried to just do the restore via the settings, but it tells me I need to insert media to do the restore. So I figured I'd make a USB restore drive and use that. But when I insert it into the computer when prompted, it tells me it's the incorrect media... So I don't know what to do about it, at this point... v_v


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## Old Rich (May 31, 2007)

What O/S are you restoring?


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

It's a Windows 8.1 computer.


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## Old Rich (May 31, 2007)

You will probably have to restore Vista, then upgrade to 8 from that


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

Oy... v_v

So how do I go about doing that? I didn't get install disks with the computer when I first got it, and I don't recall making recovery disks because I wasn't really that concerned with it (not to mention, I was just lazy...).

I did look to see if there was an option to make recovery disks now, but I got some kind of an error that makes it sound like I had already made disks in the past. But I'm like 99% sure I never did, and even if I did and just forgot about it, I wouldn't even know where to begin to look trying to find said disks. :/


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## Old Rich (May 31, 2007)

You could check ebay for installation discs or borrow one from a friend? It will have to be an OEM version to match up with the key on the sticker


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## MPR (Aug 28, 2010)

Firstly, I'd check to see if your system still has an intact recovery partition from which you can do a factory restore according to the computer manufacturer's instructions. If not, I'd then check to see if recovery disks are available from your system's manufacturer. If neither of these options are available, you can try to do a clean install from the Windows 8 media. If you don't have a working computer with which to download and burn a Windows 8 copy you can order one from Microsoft for $14 (I did this, though I really don't know why).

Upgrade Windows with only a product key - Windows Help

If you have a Windows 8 upgrade product key then you might be able to do a clean install from the Windows 8 media (which you can download and burn to a DVD or USB drive). When Win 8 came out I tested its repair features, including Refresh and Reset. I also tried a clean install from the upgrade media to see if I could install Windows 8 without having to reinstall Windows 7 first. 

The way I clean installed Windows 8 was to use this method to allow the activation to proceed.

How to fix Windows 8 activation after clean install using an upgrade media • Pureinfotech

It's interesting that I later did another clean install which activated without having to use the Registry tweak.

However, I have a retail version of Windows 7 Pro. I don't know if this will work for a Vista OEM upgrade.


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

Would it maybe be possible to insert into the old computer the full version of Windows 8 I bought when I built my new machine, and then just use the old serial once it gets to that point? Or will that not work? Oh, wait, I'm on 64-bit now, my old machine was 32-bit... Or does the disk contain installations for both?


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## MPR (Aug 28, 2010)

Windows 8 comes in both 32-bit and 64-bit versions. They come from MS on separate disks with the retail version but the retail version includes both so if you had a full version of Windows 7 you can use either install the 32-bit or 64-bit version of Windows 8. However, if you upgraded from a 32-bit version the upgrade will be only 32-bit and it's the same goes for 64-bit.


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

Is it possible to get a "proper" copy of Windows 8 (by "proper", I mean, more full than whatever it is Windows 8 puts on a flash drive when you do the "Create recovery drive" option) onto a flash drive and just use that? Does Microsoft allow you to download the OS like that and throw it on a flash drive, as long as you have a key to use to activate it?

I remember when I had an old netbook, which lacks a disk drive, and I was able to download Windows 7 from Microsoft to a flash drive, and install Windows 7 onto my netbook. I assume they don't do that with 8, though, huh?


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

This is about win 8 Windows 8 price in UK - PC Advisor
How do I get Windows 8 and how much does it cost? - Microsoft Windows 8 on MSN UK


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

Eh. I just really don't want to have to spend more money, yanno? I never realized doing a "factory reset" would be such a hassle. It's like, I already have a serial key that I paid for, for the computer, why do I need to buy Windows again just to do a factory reset?

I dunno... Resetting this old computer has turned out to be even more of a hassle than building the new PC I bought. @[email protected] I work at a store that also does computer repair stuff, so perhaps the tech guys might have a Windows 8 disk I can borrow, just to insert in the machine when the computer asks for it? I wonder if that would work?


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

This what you mean Upgrading Windows with only a product key - Windows Help


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

Essentially. The problem I'm running into is that I'm trying to do a factory restore, but when I do that, Windows prompts me to insert media (I assume a disk or flash drive with Windows on it) in order to do so. But because I upgraded to Windows 8 (and 7, before that) digitally, rather than via disk, I have no disks or media to insert.

In Windows 8, if you search "Create a recovery drive", you can insert a flash drive, and it'll format it with recovery files, which is what I tried to do, but when I insert this flash drive when I'm trying to do the factory reset, it tells me that's not the correct media to insert.


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

Perhaps the info here or in the blue links can help, it sounds like you may not have done the process for the usb correctly How to Refresh or Reset Your Windows 8 PC | PCMag.com


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

joeten said:


> Perhaps the info here or in the blue links can help, it sounds like you may not have done the process for the usb correctly  to Refresh or Reset Your Windows 8 PC | PCMag.com[/url




Maybe, but I followed the instructions in the one link about making a recovery drive, and it seemed like it did what it needed to do. I was surprised that it only required 512MB of storage space, but that's apparently all it used on the drive. It took me through everything, and it seemed like the drive was made just fine.

Unless there's a different way to do it than that? Perhaps "Create a recovery drive" is different than putting the Windows 8 installer onto a flash drive? I'm not sure what that process would entail, and all I can find are links to making the recovery drive like I already did.


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## joeten (Dec 4, 2008)

There is a tutorial here Create Bootable USB or DVD with Windows 8 ISO I have not tried it so can only pass on as is.


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## indestructible (Aug 3, 2009)

Thanks, I'll give that a try when I get a chance. Probably some time over the weekend, due to my work schedule.


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## dannpp2012 (Aug 5, 2012)

Connect the monitor to which ever connection you plan to use, if it's the dedicated gpu then connect to that and not the onboard video. Besides with a gpu it will send the signal to the video card in stead of the onboard video. When installing divers make sure to install the motherboard drivers first then the video card drivers, onboard video doesn't need to be installed since you're using a dedicated video card.


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