# Briggs and Stratton 311777-0164-e1 ignition coil



## clemsonnum1 (Aug 15, 2014)

Engine was working great until I shut it off after cutting the grass. Determined there was no spark so I put on a new plug. Still no spark so I put on a new ignition coil. Started right up the first time, but then I tried to start again and nothing. Took the kill wire off and still nothing. Also noticed some melting around the plug wire. There must voltage leaking somewhere back into it but haven't seen any melted wires so far. I bought a multimeter to test and haven't gotten any voltage readings from turning the switch from off-run-off. I took the battery out to check resistence of the kill wire and it was 0 in both the run and off positions. Is this normal? Anyone else have a problem like this before. Not really wanting to waste another $50 on a coil just to burn it up again.


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## clemsonnum1 (Aug 15, 2014)

Update:

12v feeding through entire ground except at the battery when I release the key from start to run. This is a husqvarna yth 1746b lawn mower. No idea how I'm going to locate the wiring problem. Could be anywhere and it only sends the 12v to ground for a half second when I switch from start-run.


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Hi and welcome to TSF

Sorry, really lost here, at your question. The coil on almost every small engine will not have 12 volts anywhere. It will only 2 wires, the plug wire and the kill wire.

BG


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## clemsonnum1 (Aug 15, 2014)

Thanks. That's the problem. The kill wire is getting 12 volts briefly when I switch from start-run (turning the motor over). It has burnt up 2 ignition coils. The ground gets 12 volts sent through it all the way up to the ignition switch. The only place I didn't measure any voltage when going from start-run was directly at the battery. So basically the problem could be anywhere but the battery. No other problems at all except burning out ignition coils. Husqvarna doesn't have repair manuals so I'm kind of flying blind as to the steps and where to begin testing for a problem like this.

If I wasn't getting the spike in voltage at the ignition switch I could just run a new kill wire. As it is though I would have to put in a completely new switch apart from the ignition switch to provide a ground for the kill wire. I don't think it is the alternator because I disconnected all wires from it and still got the surge.

Are there any good ways to test the switches and connectors for any shorts to ground. I know it is not in the alternator wiring harness or in the carb wiring harness.


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