# 2003 Trailblazer won't start - Help!



## Toddman

I drove my Trailblazer all over town Friday and Saturday morning, in the afternoon when I went to drive it it would not start. The battery has plenty of power and I also tried jumping it with my wifes car which has a brand new battery in it and nothing! When I go to start it all I get is the "check engine" light. I wnet to the local dealer and all he said was that i need to bring it in so they can look at it but I am hoping i will not have to spend a fortune on this thing. Can anyone share with me what i can possibly do to fix this? Please help!

Thanks!


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## mack1

> When I go to start it all I get is the "check engine" light.


Hi Toddman and welcome to TSF :wave:

Does the quote say it all? No clicking of the starter or engine turning over?
Worst of all, does it have a security system, cause I can't help you much with that :4-dontkno 

I can help if the engine turns over, but others will have be a lot more helpful on security systems that lock out your engine.

Let us know,
Mack1


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## matt569us

well if you are trying to jump start it with a car it might not work too well if your battery is dead all the way you will probaly be able to do it with a bigger vehicle


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## Toddman914

Hey guys its me again, I have had a hell of a time logging back in and trying to reset my password. Anyway, I'm back now and wanted to update my issue. I have since changed the ignition switch as well as completely disassemble my steering column and ignition assembly and found no mechanical issues at all. All I know is that my ignition when fully rotated has no resistance at all, normally there is some sort of "spring-back" at the end but mine just simply turns freely. All lights come on but no turn over at all, I have also checked it with a scanner and it has no engine codes at all. I had this apart and found no issues, could it be an elecrtical switch or something? Still broke down and bummed out - please help me out peeps!


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## mack1

> All I know is that my ignition when fully rotated has no resistance at all, normally there is some sort of "spring-back" at the end but mine just simply turns freely. All lights come on but no turn over at all,


Hi Toddman,

The lights turning on tells that you are getting power to the switch. Also, the contacts switching power to the instrument panel is working. 

Make this check. Watch the instrument lights as you slowly turn the switch to the on position. If the lights come on at the end of the rotation where the stop occurs, then you are not rotating around far enough to bring the starter in (not going into the springback portion of the switch rotation). There is a mechanical stop that prevents you from rotating the switch to the start position if the shifter is in any positon except park and netural on some vehicles. Try putting the shifter into park and wiggle it while you try to start. Try the same thing in the neutral position. 

The springback action is required. It turns the starter off when you take your had off the key even if you don't rotate the key back to run. See if you can sort this out and let us know how it goes.

Best regards,
Mack1


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## Toddman914

Mack1 - No deal on trying that, i actaully fouind that online and tried it pretty early on, I both wiggeled the shifter around as well as tried it in neutral with no luck at all. Could it be the parking switch which is mounted right next to the key cylinder? Or the small spring loaded little switch which is hiot by the cylinder when turned? If it were these wouldn't I be able to see some sort of engine code issue? Thanks for replying!


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## mack1

Hi Toddman,

I think you can forget the idea of a code in the OBD II system. There is no sensor to tell it that the key didn't turn on. 

But, the test I suggested above should tell you if the switch isn't turning far enough to make contact with the start circuit contact. If the switch is turning only to the ON position and won't turn any further, you have a mechanical problem in the switch assmbly. Mechanically, the shifter must be in park or neutral. This alignment will allow the switch to turn to the start position. There is a pin, or flat, or rod, or slot, etc... something associated with the shifter that obstructs the switch assembly behind the key cylinder in all other positions. That blocking part has failed in some fashion which prevents turn to start. 

If you could get your hands on a shop manual, you might get more details. The local library might be a place to start.

I have two Haynes manuals that cover Chevrolets through your year and neither has details about the mechanical stop item. Each tell how to replace the key cylinder, but not much else. The pictures showing the ignition assembly didn't show much either. If you drop the stearing assembly down and remove all the coverings from it, you might be able to see how it works and fix it.

Best regards,
Mack1


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## SABL

I have not seen any mention of mileage on the TB. 

Would it be OK if I mention the simple issue of starter failure?? Or the solenoid??

I had issues with my E350 (Ford...not MBenz) and on occasion it was the connection of the wire from the ign switch to the solenoid, at the solenoid itself.

Later on I had the same symptoms as Toddman..... no starter action no matter what.
Jumping had no affect....connections and grounds were good. I replaced the starter and all is well.

I might have missed something in the conversation, and if I have done so, please forgive my intrusion.


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## Toddman914

Just heard back from my mechanic, it appears there were 2 issues, the first was caused by me (mechanic-wanna-be) - in my haste to reassemble my steering column i had the ignition switch teeth out of position so they were not properly engaged with the key cylinder - that explains the key cylinder problem. The real problem ended up being my starter solenoid, it was "frozen" and would not engage the starter. It is being replaced as we speak and I will be good to go this evening. The cool thing is the guy that fixed it came to my house and is fixing it on the spot and is very reasonable. Including labor and parts this is only costing me $65.00! Anyone living in the Chicagoland area should consider using this guy, website is as follows: http://www.drphilsauto.com Thanks to everyone who read and replied to my post - I hope this helps other TB owners, from what I've seen on my internet searches starting problems on these vehicles is very common.


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## SABL

Thanks Toddman914 for the reply on your problem!! It is peeps like you that supply much needed info on solutions to problems that occur on a day to day basis. Without input, knowledge does not get shared. The price is great and the fix was nothing major.

Many thanks for your valuable input!!
SABL


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