# Kenmore gas dryer overheating and shutting down in permanent press setting



## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

I have a Kenmore 110.97195120 gas dryer (electronic/propane), 30 years old. Lately, I've found it to overheat and shut down when in the permanent press setting (lowest heat/highest drying). I can set it on knit/delicate, and it seems to dry fine. I opened the dryer up and cleaned the little bit of lint I could find, along with cleaning the already clear vent pipe, and nothing seems to change. I have the Part No. 3395267 Rev. B Parts List (in case there is a more current part list). It appears a part will need to be replaced. Please help me identify what part to replace. There are two part numbers for the thermistor (3390292) and Thermostat High-Limit 205°F (3388697) which appear to be the same part in the diagram. Thank you.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

These could be the replacement parts since the dryer was made by Whirlpool: I'd replace both.


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

I'd hate to replace parts just to replace them. I'm looking for someone who has had a similar experience and has discovered what might be causing the problem.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

Maybe one of the Sears repair guys (A&E) will see this and solve easily.


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

Hopefully, they will see this. Thank you for responding. There is also a radiant sensor (part# 338906), but I fear the problem might be with the electronic brain in the touchpad, as it dries fine in other settings.


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## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

Any help here?: Why does my dryer start then stop?


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

Barry321 said:


> , but I fear the problem might be with the electronic brain in the touchpad, as it dries fine in other settings.


Only a tech with special equipment can test this, however if it's scorched, then that's what to replace.


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

OK, let me clarify what's happening. Though the other settings work fine, when I set the dryer to permanent press (high dry/low heat), the gas burns too long, overheating the dryer and causing the high temp sensor to shut the whole machine down. I can reset it to air dry, and that works. I can reset it to knit/delicate, and that finishes the drying cycle. It only prevents it from working on the permanent press setting. It's just seems the high temp regulator doesn't work on permanent press.There is no lint in the lint filter, fan, dryer and metal vent pipe. Which part regulates the heat for permanent press only, or could the lead to the permanent press setting be faulty, while everything else works fine?


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

Everything mentioned throughout this thread is a possibility., but the cycling thermostat is the most likely suspect.


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

Corday said:


> Everything mentioned throughout this thread is a possibility., but the cycling thermostat is the most likely suspect.


Would that be part # 42, 43 or 48 or something else?


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

What Happens with a Bad Thermostat in a Clothes Dryer?


What Happens with a Bad Thermostat in a Clothes Dryer?. Modern dryers usually have more than one thermostat: a cycling thermostat that turns the heating element off and on to keep the temperature even; and either a high-limit or thermal thermostat that cuts power to the heating element if the...




homeguides.sfgate.com


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

Thank you for the article. It clearly explains the differences and results. Based on this article, my cycling thermostat is defective, though I can't find a cycling thermostat on my dryer. Viewing these videos, I believe the problem is probably the thermistor, so I'll replace that. https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B08GLHKRQT


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## johnwill (Sep 26, 2002)

Did you check the obvious? I just cleaned out the critter screen on the side of my house because the drier stopped working. It was totally filled with lint balls and had stopped the airflow.


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

I don't have a critter screen for that reason. Mine just has a metal flap. I place a magnet on the flap when I'm not using the dryer and take it off when I am using it. Before I started doing that, a critter did get inside and ate up my blower fan.


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## Pursya (Feb 27, 2008)

Not a solution, sorry.
But i just had to write about how much of an American thing having a "Critter Screen" is.
I almost fell off my chair laughing. Never heard of such a thing!

Sorry to be off topic...


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## johnwill (Sep 26, 2002)

Pursya said:


> But i just had to write about how much of an American thing having a "Critter Screen" is.
> I almost fell off my chair laughing. Never heard of such a thing!


Without it, the birds make nests in the vent. The flaps are no impediment, I've watched them open one and go in to build their nests. Not sure why it would be just an "American Thing", don't you have birds where you live?


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

Pursya said:


> Not a solution, sorry.
> But i just had to write about how much of an American thing having a "Critter Screen" is.
> I almost fell off my chair laughing. Never heard of such a thing!


The House Sparrow is the bird which likes dryer vents. Since it's been released in Australia, the problem exists there too.


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## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

Snake in dryer vent? You betcha! "snake in dryer vent" - Google Search


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## Pursya (Feb 27, 2008)

johnwill said:


> Without it, the birds make nests in the vent. The flaps are no impediment, I've watched them open one and go in to build their nests. Not sure why it would be just an "American Thing", don't you have birds where you live?


I'm not sure that "dryer vents" are a big thing over here. Remember we have very few places that are consistently at or below zero degrees Celsius.
My dryer is barely used and vents directly into the laundry.
Mind you, I do live on an acre in a rural area and these two "critters" are more our issue;








Eastern Brown Snake


Eastern Brown Snake




australian.museum












Tiger Snake


Tiger Snake




australian.museum





And the ever present danger.....








Drop Bear


This urban legend focuses on bush walkers having been known to be 'dropped on' by drop bears, resulting in injury including mainly lacerations and occasionally bites.




australian.museum


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## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

australia "dryer vent" - Google Search



"If you are venting your dryer into your home, you need to stop doing so. *Indoor dryer vents are not safe*. They can cause health problems due to a build-up of mold and structural damage due to the increased humidity. They can also be a fire hazard as the lint they spew into the air is highly flammable."​


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drop_bear


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## Deejay100six (Nov 24, 2007)

I've got a condenser tumble dryer, a little more expensive but wasn't practical to have a dryer on an external wall and saved the expense of a core drill for the outlet. All the moisture goes into a tank which is like a drawer that you pull out to empty once full. Very pleased with it.


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## Pursya (Feb 27, 2008)

SpywareDr said:


> australia "dryer vent" - Google Search
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Well there is an exhaust fan in the ceiling that is also active when drying.
After 18 years, no mould. I've yet to see lint "spewed into the air". The only fire hazard is the one you also suffer from and that is lint build up in the filter. The filter in my case is in the front centre of the dryer and is easily pulled off and cleaned after/before any cycle. It's a 30 year old machine and, due to not much use, still almost pristine. It is being replaced by an integrated washer/dryer which, from research, is more likely to catch fire than the stand alone unit.
I'll leave that here now as I have taken this thread way off topic and been absolutely no help to the opening poster.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

Even in our permission to do almost anything County, it's against code to vent into house. Frankly, I never heard of anyone ever doing this.


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## Pursya (Feb 27, 2008)

Corday said:


> Even in our permission to do almost anything County, it's against code to vent into house. Frankly, I never heard of anyone ever doing this.


I work in the building supply industry and have never heard of such a code in Australia.
Unless of course you are using a gas fired dryer, a very rare thing here. I've never seen a domestic gas fired dryer though they do exist in industrial situations.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

OP's dryer is propane.


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## Pursya (Feb 27, 2008)

Corday said:


> OP's dryer is propane.


Well there you go.
As I say, I'm very unfamiliar with that type of dryer. Just no need for them here.
I hope anyone operating one of these in a domestic situation also has a carbon monoxide alarm nearby. I just installed a coupe of Google Nest smoke alarms that also do monoxide.
Highly recommended.

This happened a decade ago near a place we used to live. 




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www.heraldsun.com.au


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## johnwill (Sep 26, 2002)

Pursya said:


> My dryer is barely used and vents directly into the laundry.


Really bad idea!


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## Pursya (Feb 27, 2008)

johnwill said:


> Really bad idea!


Not at all. I would estimate 99% of Australian dryers do the same thing. I've been doing it for near on 40 years. Never had mould, never had a fire, never had an issue.
These are electric dryers of course.


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## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

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is breathing in lint harmful - Google Search






www.google.com


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## Pursya (Feb 27, 2008)

SpywareDr said:


> __
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I don't understand how you guys don't get that these dryers are electric, have lint filters, are located in a separate room that can be closed off.
I think walking down the street in any large American city would be more harmful to your lungs than the dryers we use.
And, as I've stated, our weather means we are unlucky to use a dryer maybe 10 times a year.
As far as building codes go, we are very regulated here. But there are no regulations for venting of electric clothes dryers. For good reason.









Appliances Online







www.appliancesonline.com.au






> Basic dryer models will only give you one venting option - through the front of the machine. This option is fine if your laundry has an inbuilt exhaust fan or a window - otherwise you will find that the room becomes hot and damp whenever the dryer is in use.


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## johnwill (Sep 26, 2002)

Whatever blows your hair back, I sure don't want that happening in my house!


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

A simple magnet on my vent flap eliminates all your concerns, and it's very easy to use.

I replaced the thermistor and then ran a cycle on permanent press. The load dried properly with no problems. I then ran a load of a couple of towels on the towel setting, and the dryer shut off before the towels were dry. I then set it to permanent press, and it still shut off early. I then set it to knit/delicate and had the same results. I ran it on air only. Some moisture left the towels, and the dryer cooled down. I then attempted the knit/delicate cycle again. It ran longer, than previously, but still stopped early. I ran it again, and the towels were fairly dry.
It appears there are 4 other parts that might be causing the problem (unless the new thermistor is defective).
Sensor – Pressure #3407033
Electrode, Sensor #3387223 (possibly moisture sensor)
Thermostat (high limit 205°F) #3388697
Sensor, Radiant #338906
Since the dryer does shut off when hot, I’m sensing it is probably either the Electrode, Sensor or the Sensor, Radiant, as there is nothing I can see that might raise the pressure, and the dryer does get hot. What are your thoughts on this?


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## johnwill (Sep 26, 2002)

Barry321 said:


> A simple magnet on my vent flap eliminates all your concerns, and it's very easy to use.


That would be incorrect, since there are multiple flaps in most of these vents. Also, even if you have the right design flap that doesn't solve the issue. If the magnet is strong enough to resist the birds prying it open, it's likely strong enough to prevent the driver air pressure from opening it.


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

My vent has a single flap, and, as I previously stated, I remove the magnet when I use the dryer and replace it after I finish drying. It works very well. I wish I could say the same of the dryer.


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## johnwill (Sep 26, 2002)

My dryer vent is around 13 feet up the wall, so getting a ladder out three times a week to remove the magnet, rain or shine, is a non-starter!


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

I designed my home to be convenient, very much unlike engineers who design for their own convenience and don't consider the end-user. For instance, who in their right mind believes the most convenient place to locate a vehicle fuel pump and filter is inside the gas tank?


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## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

Protection. 





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why is a vehicle fuel pump and filter inside the gas tank? - Google Search






www.google.com


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

Barry321 said:


> Since the dryer does shut off when hot, I’m sensing it is probably either the Electrode, Sensor or the Sensor, Radiant, as there is nothing I can see that might raise the pressure, and the dryer does get hot. What are your thoughts on this?


Back on track. Since Barry indicated parts already replaced, which part is still needed?


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

That type of protection is unnecessary. It makes as much sense as designing a car that doesn't give you easy access to spark plugs.


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## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

I see. Who died and left you boss?


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

Corday, thanks for returning this thread to the original topic. There must be a way I can test the various parts to determine which one or ones might be defective. I can't see replacing them all and just hoping for the best.


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

SpywareDr said:


> I see. Who died and left you boss?


Even my son, who is an engineer, admits many of the designs engineers come up with are far from ideal.


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## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

There are many involved in automobile engineering decisions. (And the overall costs of course).


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

I understand there are many companies that primarily focus on their bottom line, but there are challenges with engineers in general, also. My son is responsible for all software development for all spacecraft designed, or already in space, for the major aerospace corporation he works for. He finds it challenging when he assigns an engineer to a project, only to find out the engineer chooses to take the easy way out and manipulate what already exists rather than designing something ideal for the situation. He often has to fix what engineers chose to just jury rig.


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## johnwill (Sep 26, 2002)

Barry321 said:


> I designed my home to be convenient, very much unlike engineers who design for their own convenience and don't consider the end-user. For instance, who in their right mind believes the most convenient place to locate a vehicle fuel pump and filter is inside the gas tank?


Since the laundry is on the second floor, running the vent down to the first floor would involve a number of bends in the pipe, not a really good idea with a dryer vent.


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## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

johnwill said:


> Since the laundry is on the second floor, running the vent down to the first floor would involve a number of bends in the pipe, not a really good idea with a dryer vent.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dryer_vent , click on "Spin Dryers" and note the kinked vent above the dryer, then the pic of the inside of the vent. (Fire Hazard)


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

SpywareDr said:


> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dryer_vent , click on "Spin Dryers" and note the kinked vent above the dryer, then the pic of the inside of the vent. (Fire Hazard)


I used to do volunteer work for an agency that built homes for veterans. Their dryer vent design never made sense to me. The laundry hookups were in the garage. The vent went up into the ceiling and across the garage and out the wall opposite where the dryer was. The city required a blower half-way across the garage to make sure the lint was forced out of the house. My concern with this setup is no one will ever want to clean their vents, as there is no easy access or direct flow. That's 2 elbows and a fan between the dryer and the exit.

By the way, I'm still working to find the solution for my dryer, so any suggestions would be appreciated. I removed and cleaned the grill outlet, moisture sensor and blower fan and housing. There was a slight coating of dried lint, but nothing to cause any significant reduction of airflow. Resistance in the new (and old) thermistor lowers as the temperature rises, though overall range appears a little lower for the old one than the new one. Are there any other suggestions I could test? Since the thermostat is just high and not cycling, and it does shut down the dryer when it overheats, I don't sense that is the problem. Since I was able to run a load to completion and have the clothes dry, I sense none of the fuses are bad. I don't know how to test the pressure sensor.


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## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

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how to test the pressure sensor in a dryer - Google Search






www.google.com





?


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

Nothing there is for a clothes dryer.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

Each bend in the ductwork subtracts from the maximum length allowed. Here's the International Code on the subject: What is the maximum length for a clothes dryer vent?.


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## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

Corday said:


> Each bend in the ductwork subtracts from the maximum length allowed. Here's the International Code on the subject: What is the maximum length for a clothes dryer vent?.


I understand this was the reason the city made them put in in-line boosters. Though the in-line boosters are supposed to be self-cleaning, you can't get a brush through it to clean the rest of the vent pipe, so I doubt these vent pipes will ever be cleaned... leading to an eventual fire condition.


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

SpywareDr said:


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Thanks for the links, but they are for washing machines, not dryers. I have no idea the purpose of the pressure switches in dryers. Do they shut down the dryer if the lint screen gets filled and pressure builds? Do they activate aspects of the dryer when they sense normal pressure? Would a faulty pressure switch cause the dryer to overheat and shut down? This is the part: Kenmore Dryer Pressure Sensor 279580 3407033 ASMN | eBay


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## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

It's only $20? I'd replace it.





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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

SpywareDr said:


> It's only $20? Replace it.


I'm not going to replace a part when I have no idea what it's purpose is or how to test it. You could say to replace all parts of the dryer that cost $20 or less. That will add up to more than I bought the dryer for when it was new, yet I may still end up with the same problem. I'm looking to understand the problem, not replace parts that don't need to be replaced.


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## SpywareDr (Jun 15, 2013)

And for each of those parts, you want us to teach you exactly what they do, how they work, and how to test them . . . in a 30 year old clothes dryer . . . and for free? Sorry man, but Nope, I'm out.


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

No Problem. I was just looking for people who have had similar experiences and have acquired some knowledge. I wouldn't offer help in any area I had no knowledge.


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## johnwill (Sep 26, 2002)

Clearly, the pressure sensor would be for sensing back-pressure in the exhaust line, so it's certainly a possible suspect. I'm at a total loss where else a pressure sensor would be used in a dryer.


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

johnwill said:


> Clearly, the pressure sensor would be for sensing back-pressure in the exhaust line, so it's certainly a possible suspect. I'm at a total loss where else a pressure sensor would be used in a dryer.


Thank you for your response. It sounds like you believe it would shut the dryer down if there is too much back pressure from lint buildup in the vent pipe. That makes sense, but I wonder what it might do if there is no back pressure but the sensor goes bad. I doubt it is causing my problem, but it can't hurt to test it anyway. I tried blowing through it, and air didn't go through. Maybe it needs a certain amount of pressure to send a signal to the burner. There is a hose from the blower housing to the sensor and then from the sensor to the burner assembly. I checked its two contacts for resistance and there is none. There are very few sensors in this dryer, so I figure I might as well test them all. (thermistor -- already replaced, high-limit thermostat, moisture sensor, radiant sensor and pressure sensor)


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## johnwill (Sep 26, 2002)

Barry321 said:


> I tried blowing through it, and air didn't go through. Maybe it needs a certain amount of pressure to send a signal to the burner.


You can't blow through a pressure sensor, this happens to be a topic I know a bit about.  In a previous life I designed avionics, including several air data computers. 

The other port is for ambient pressure, not a pass-thru. The object of the exercise is to measure the difference between the ambient pressure and the pressure in the dryer exhaust vent. That's normally done with a strain gauge on a flexible diaphragm or a capacitive sensor.


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

Then I guess it is working as expected. Thanks for the information.


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## johnwill (Sep 26, 2002)

Well, it didn't let air through, that's good. However, you don't know if it's actually working and being sensed.


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

I only do laundry every other week, so I'll find out a week from Thursday if my deep cleaning helped or not. I didn't find any blockage, but I did remove a small amount of debris.


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

Look what I found folded up inside when I checked the control board for corrosion.


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

I understand there are companies that will repair old control boards, but their reviews are mixed. Either it worked or it didn't work, and most people were disappointed in the company's response if it didn't work. Here are the companies I found:
https://www.fixyourboard.com/how_to_ship.html
https://www.partsimple.com/whirlpool-3407091-laundry-dryer-control-board.html
AKA this EBay company Whirlpool 3407091 Laundry Dryer LogicPower Board Control REPAIR SERVICE | eBay
https://www.upfix.com/product/3407091-laundry-dryer-control-board-repair/
Whirlpool 3407091 Laundry Dryer Control Board - REPAIR SERVICE . FactorysOnline

Has anyone dealt with these or similar companies that repair control boards?


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## oscer1 (Jan 27, 2010)

Hi you can check this company out they fix a ton of different boards. We send all are boards that needs fixing. They don’t do every board out their but a lot of them. Can search their site by manufacture and board number. you can also call them and see if they can fix your board. Prices not that bad. Home | Control System Labs


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

They don't list my board part number, but I will call them on Monday. Thank you for the lead. The ones I listed quote a repair cost from $120 - 158


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## oscer1 (Jan 27, 2010)

yeah worth a call


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## johnwill (Sep 26, 2002)

Barry321 said:


> Look what I found folded up inside when I checked the control board for corrosion.


I think virtually all appliances come with similar documentation, I know all my major appliances have a similar pack of documentaton.


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

johnwill said:


> I think virtually all appliances come with similar documentation, I know all my major appliances have a similar pack of documentaton.


I guess they like hiding it where only a technician will find it, so people won't mess with things they're not qualified to do. I always knew these documents existed, but they can be hard to find, and manufacturers have always told me they don't exist... insisting the only option is to contact an authorized service technician.


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## johnwill (Sep 26, 2002)

Yep, I've never seen those documents where you could easily reach them without at least taking a couple screws out.


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

I have good news and bad news. My clothes dryer is no longer overheating. Unfortunately, I don't do laundry frequently enough to be patient enough to run a true scientific experiment. Therefore, I have too many variables to conclude a particular cause. Replacing the thermistor didn't solve the problem, but, based on the ohm readings, I believe the new one is slightly better than the old one. I did deep cleaning and removed a small area of caked on lint after the blower and before the first elbow toward the rear of the dryer. This area covered only 3-4" and was no more than 3/16" thick at the thickest... not enough to create any significant reduction in airflow. I also removed the control board and cleaned the pins well with vinegar followed by cleaning the entire board with denatured alcohol. Something must have helped, but I can't say exactly what it was. The only other variable that I don't believe had anything to do with it was I switched my propane provider, so there was no propane pressure for about 10-15 minutes.


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## Corday (Mar 3, 2010)

Best guess is cleaning the pins + control board since that is what affected the problem the most of the things you did. Anyway, we can put this thread to rest unless others have further comments.


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## Barry321 (5 mo ago)

Corday said:


> Best guess is cleaning the pins + control board since that is what affected the problem the most of the things you did. Anyway, we can put this thread to rest unless others have further comments.


Prior to cleaning the board, I didn't see anything on the board that would lead me to believe it might have caused a current reduction, but there was dust, which I removed, sitting below the board on the dryer, inside the component box at the top rear of the dryer.


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