# Briggs 12 hp 28V707 1170-E1 Charging Ciircut



## Slow Sam (Sep 4, 2010)

I have An MTD lawn tractor which I use for parades. I would like to change the generator / alternator to a larger capacity to be able to carry extra lights. Is this It appears that I have a low amp DC circuit for maintaining the battery and a 14 volt AC for the headlights. Are there Briggs & Stratton parts that will bolt in / on that will provide increased DC current? Thank You Slow Sam


----------



## mstpops (Oct 21, 2009)

Hi there just checking what charging system you have now 

i suspect your system to be a dual circiut alternator 1 black lead 1 red lead both go to white connector ( a diode will be encased at the connector point on the red lead ) the black lead is a/c for lights 

sounds like you may have to change to a 10 amp or 16 amp system 
depending on the size of the magnets on your exsisting flywheel 

you will need to change stator assy under the flywheel and fit correct rectifier with its mount the rest will couple in as normall 


let me know what wire colors are comming out from your stator 

and the connector color and wire colors comming out from the connector 

i will get back to you on what you will need and part numbers 

cheers mstpops


----------



## Slow Sam (Sep 4, 2010)

HI mstpops 

Yes I do have the dusl windings that give me a low amp cuicut to charge the battery and another that is an AC feed for the head,ights. The problemn ios that when I idle the engine the headlights dim. I would like to be ale to feed direct from the battery to eliminate this ptroblem. oqwever I don't thiknk that the low amp cuirci=uit wou;d be abl;e to keep up with the currewnt draw. Will either of these coild be a direct bolr in type replacement to my present one? As yet I haven't taken the fly cover off to see if the coils are internal (fly wheel) or external.. Am I correct thta there two types? Than's again for ypour responce Slow sam


----------



## mstpops (Oct 21, 2009)

if you get your flywheel off the magnets may measure 22 mm x 18 mm and will be small magnets once confirmed 

stator will mount under your flywheel 
you may want to use pt # 393295 stator it has 2 x black output leads and yellow connector and gives 20 volt a/c minimum and 10 amp d/c regulated
this stator does not have a connection to earth - so make sure you fit little insulators under the bolt mounts ( these could quite possibly come with stator ) 

you will also need pt # 394890 regulator rectifier 
this unit has 2 x yellow leads and 1 x yellow coupler ( this connects to stator yellow coupler ) and it has 1 x red lead with red coupler for d/c output to go to the hot post of statarter solenoid or run the wire straight back to battery positive 

you will need to change the female coupler type on the reg/ rectifier and the male coupler on the loom side to automotive type male / female type with insulators on them so that you have a make / break coupling in case you need to repair / replace . test etc 

make sure you mount regulator as close as you can to stator on the r/h side of engine and make sure it has a good earth 

you with then have to place a additional switch for your headlights on the dash 
then run a red wire from hot post of solenoid or direct from + post of battery to your switch and out to your lights wire which would have been the black wire from your dual circuit stator , just couple red wire to the wires that go to your lights and fit a earth lead as well if you need to 

if you are testing this stator output voltage at any time disconnect yellow coupler with stator disconnected start and run engine at 3600 rpm you will need to connect 1 x multimeter test on 1 pin in the yellow connector that comes from stator and the other test lead on the other pin in the yellow connector and note the a/c voltage obtained

if you test with test lead on 1 pin and other test lead on earth you will get a very very low voltage 


cheers hope it helps


----------

