# Yard Machines Snowblower Engine Seized Up



## jeff08 (Mar 24, 2008)

I have a Yard Machines snowblower (Model 31AE640F062) with a Tecumseh 8 hp engine. It is about 6 years old and 2 years ago, I had just started it up and after about 5 minutes the engine stopped suddenly and all of the oil began to spill out of the bottom of the unit. The engine was completely seized up. It has been sitting in the garage since then and luckily haven't really needed it. The oil was changed before that season and I checked the level before starting it up. I'm sure this is a serious problems, but thoughts on what it is? Thanks


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave: Hi & welcome to TSF.

I am afraid you are likely correct - this engine has gone to the _here-on-after_:sigh: My guess is the engine has thrown a big end bearing - so expect serious damage to crankshaft, con rod - maybe the bore and the engine block

Whilst you might like to strip it down and see what has failed - your description points towards a catastrophic failure - - which means as a rule the cost of parts and repairs usually exceeds the worth of the engine.

In those cases - it is usually easier to simply buy a replacement engine and fit it to your piece of equipment.


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave:Jeff - if you go down the replacement engine route - remember *DO NOT TRASH* your old engine until you have the replacement fitted to your snow blower.:4-thatsba

I make this comment because whilst sourcing a direct replacement engine (one that has identical base foot print, shaft height, length & diameter) should be easy enough (in fact you may not even have to replace your Tecumseh with another Tecumseh - coz in the size range there are often B&S or Honda options that will fit just fine).

This issue with retaining your old engine is that you will almost certainly need some of the linkages / control connection parts from your old engine. 

The biggest problem with engine transplants is getting throttle / choke connections to mate up, as the OEMs often spec their own linkages - and chasing all over the place looking for these little bits & pieces is a total PiA :upset:- so keep all those bits off your old engine and the transplant should be relatively painless (except for the $$$s)


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## jeff08 (Mar 24, 2008)

Thanks for replying MrChooks. I have been putting off dealing with this for a couple of years now, but I have a feeling my luck with no snow will end soon. 

I haven't opened it up yet, but my feeling was the engine might be shot. It was only used probably a dozen times over a 4 year period. At least all of the other parts should be a pretty good shape.

I have started looking for a replacement engine, and yes they are not cheap. I'd even go for a rebuilt one. I do want to make sure I am getting one that will fit as close as possible.


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

Jeff - OK the important dimensions are:

*Base plate foot print (where the mounting bolt holes are located)
*Shaft height above base plate
*Shaft diameter and key-way dimensions.

If you get these all the same - my experience is that engine transplants are fairly grief free.

Not so long ago I re-powered a MTD Shredder (as the original 4HP Tecumseh threw its crankshaft) :upset:. I managed to replace the dead Tecumseh with an 8HP B&S (as foot print, shaft height & diameter were the same) - just had to relocate the fuel tank. So transplants are not necessarily a difficult proposition - even if they are expensive:sigh:


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## jeff08 (Mar 24, 2008)

Do I need to measure the actual dimensions or can I pull them from the specs on the engine? Or possibly pull them from specs and verify by actual measurement.


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave: hi Jeff:
No - get the dimensions from the engine spec sheet - measuring these by hand accurately, is always a bit difficult. 

Both your existing dead engine (use the engine model number to get spec sheet) and your replacement engine (use its model number to get a copy of its spec sheet) will have a spec sheet with a foot print plan plus elevations giving the height of the shaft C/L and its diameter and key way dimensions. *These must be the same as your old engine - else the transplant will be very difficult*:4-thatsba

What I do in these circumstance to ensure the footprint is correct is to turn to dead engine upside down, place a piece of paper on the base plate and tap the outline and all the mounting holes with a small hammer. This cuts out an accurate outline and mounting hole position on to your piece of paper - Take that with you when you go to pick up your new engine and use it to test that there hasn't been a base plate spec change. I have never found this to be the case but it's just added insurance that I am buying an engine that will faithfully fit the OEM mounting plate.


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