# Popcorn finish not coming off the ceiling



## dm01 (Oct 10, 2006)

I'm having a small problem with the popcorn finish that was oh so trendy in the seventies. The finish peels off just fine from most of the ceiling. The problem is where two drywall panels meet; the finish here simply refuses to budge. I have tried water, dish soap, methylated spirits, and acetone. Does anyone have an idea for how to remove this?


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Hi dm,

I sure don't envy you!! Perhaps a wide paint scraper could speed up the process?? 

http://www.paintstoreonline.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_main.html?p_catid=54

Just an example of what I am refering to.

If the popcorn is water based you won't have much luck with any type of "spirits". Try removing dried cola or any type of other soft drink with any solvent. It likely won't happen... but try water and it will clean rather easily. Acetone?? Highly flammable and not recommended for indoor use in confined areas. 

The popcorn has bonded with the extra thick layer of joint/spackling compound at the drywall joints and will more than likely require the use of mechanical means to remove the offending substance. The only thing I can think of is the scraper or some coarse sandpaper. Caution must be used to avoid damage to the paper surface of the drywall or extensive spackling will be required.... no fun. 

What I would try is scraping the high spots (the actual texture) and finish with a drywall sander with "screen cloth" which is available in various grits.

http://www.paintstoreonline.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_prod.html?p_prodid=625&p_catid=

Best of luck,
SABL


----------



## dm01 (Oct 10, 2006)

Hey, I was getting desperate. 

I've tried razors before and they didn't do much, but maybe an actual scraper would do the trick.


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Razors are bad news.....too sharp and hard to navigate without causing damage. A scraping motion might be more effective..... kinda like a cabinet scraper or mill scraper. I have cured bad finishes on woodwork with razor blades, but use a scraping motion instead of a slicing motion. 

Best of luck!!


----------



## mommabear (Apr 5, 2008)

Retired painter's opinion. 

Sand the h*ll out of it, with a sander. Start with the roughest grids and as it comes off, follow with finer grids of paper. Then lightly spackle again and sand that out by hand to smooth it as much as you can. That's probably about all you can do. Seams are really hard to smooth out. 


If you're planning on a smooth finish to your new ceiling, those seams will still show through, no matter what you do. They can be camouflaged somewhat by applying another kind of texture (patterned or just random texture) to the ceiling. But you'll never hide them completely. Unless you dig/cut out all the seam paper etc, and reapply new paper and spackle, and sand the h*ll out of that. 

Whatever you end up with, it is important to PRIME those areas with a primer, not just extra layers of paint, before painting again. And sand the primed areas lightly too, before painting. If you don't prime, the paint color will bleed out or "flash" (you'll see kinda shiny areas) wherever there's a seam or patch.


----------



## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Hey mammabear!!

Good advice. Yep, butt joints can be a problem and most often need to be "busted out" (what I last heard for the term of double widing). Ceilings can be big trouble even for some "pros", let alone the average homeowner. Texture is the easiest way to make a ceiling look good and smooth finish takes a really skilled hand. 

Priming is very important.... glad you mentioned it!! And definitely sand..... a drywall sander is the most effective for larger areas.


----------



## speedster123 (Oct 18, 2006)

how big is the area in question?
going over it with 3/8 rock might be the cure all, the height loss is negliable.
the pop corn is a nightmare.


----------

