# Refrigerator (power) tranformer burning inside the circuit.



## Faisal Tasleem (Jan 15, 2011)

Hello,

Friends how are you? I am good but now days a problem is badly bugging me; a month earlier my fridge's (NO FROAST) power "transformer" which is located on the top 'burnt'. It burnt because our electric provider gave around "265 vols'' for around a month so finally it burnt the 'transformer' which was inside the fridge. I gave it to different 'electrition' and they tried to 'rewind' it but after rewinding it works for a 'few' hours and again burns the same 'way'. Now you would probably be thinking that it's normal that it's burning but now it's not giving '265 vols' i fixed that problem but even though the transformer inside that 'circuit' burns.

Do you have some suggestion for me? I got it rewind from company and reput it back and noticed that after 5 minutes it starting 'melting' the 'tap' which was put on the 'copper' wire on the transformer. SO I switched of the fridge I do not want that 'thing' to get reburnt    .

please have a look on this image of 'circuit' n transformer : http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/4889/frontxa.jpg

Thanks once again,
Faisal.


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

*Re: Refrigerator (power) transformer burning inside the circuit.*

Hi Faisal Tasleem 



The transformer will have to be replaced with the original part number because they are very precise in their construction. It would require specialized equipment to reconstruct the core and provide the exact voltage output. Refrigerators have an over voltage protection circuit in case the power goes beyond normal limits, I find it difficult to believe that it ran for a month without tripping a circuit breaker. It should have shut down the fridge immediately to protect the compressor. The over voltage protector is a regulator it is usually on the compressor ( look for electric diagram of the fridge) if it burns out the compressor does not start.


Since the power company cannot provide steady power do not connect the refrigerator directly to the wall, instead install a surge protector with a circuit breaker (see picture) to protect the compressor.


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## Faisal Tasleem (Jan 15, 2011)

Thanks boss, as I had in my doubt,the transformer just 'burnt' or you can say 'reburnt' for the 3rd time it's funny... Isn't???

Well my friend; here some electritions told me that this problem is "occuring'' because some 'trouble' in the compressor. They think that compressor's motor is 'burnt' or 'jammed' so it's asking for 'more power'... Is it possible?? I mean believe me the fridge worked for around 4 hours and the cooling is great; I mean it frozed the 'ice'. The "Coke'' is 'chilled'... SO NO cooling issue. But still is it possible that 'compressor' is on fault so therefore it's 'burning' the transformer??

And please do tell me where I can buy this 'PCB'? How much it's gonna cost??

And yes someone suggested me to put the fridge on 'direct' ; So in this way all the 'computerized' functions would get disabled so it means no 'lcd' etc... But this will solve my problem and fridge will operate like old 'manual' fridges...

IS it a good solution of this problem??

Thank you very much.

Faisal.


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## octaneman (May 13, 2009)

If the motor did burn replacing the PCB will be a waste of money. There is no doubt that running the refrigerator beyond its voltage capacity for so long will burn the compressor motor. Replacing the compressor motor is not worth the cost it will be cheaper to buy a new refrigerator than spending money on parts. 

Testing the compressor motor is fairly simple, but remember to always disconnect the power cord before doing any work on it. SAFETY FIRST ! If you are not sure how to perform the test please do not touch anything and have the test done by a professional. 

Resistance test 
1. Disconnect power to unit. 

2. Discharge capacitor by shorting across terminals with a resistor for 1 minute. NOTE: (Some compressors do not have a run capacitor.)

3. Remove leads from compressor terminals.

4. Set ohmmeter to lowest scale.

5. Check for resistance between

Terminals “S” and “C”, start winding Terminals “R” and “C”, run winding
If either compressor winding reads open (infinite or very high resistance) or
dead short (0 ohms), replace compressor.

Ground test: 
1. Disconnect power to refrigerator.

2. Discharge capacitor, if present, by shorting terminals through a resistor.

3. Remove compressor leads and use an ohmmeter set on highest scale.

4. Touch one lead to compressor body (clean point of contact) and other probe
to each compressor terminal. If reading is obtained, compressor is grounded and must be replaced. 

Operation test If voltage, capacitor, overload, and motor winding tests do not show cause for
failure, perform the following test:

1. Disconnect power to refrigerator.

2. Discharge capacitor by shorting capacitor terminals through a resistor.

3. Remove leads from compressor terminals.

4. Wire a test cord to power switch.

5. Place time delayed fuse with UL rating equal to amp rating of motor in test
cord socket. (Refer to Technical Data Sheet)

6. Remove overload and relay.

7. Connect start, common and run leads of test cord on appropriate terminals of
compressor. 

8. Attach capacitor leads of test cord together. If capacitor is used, attach capacitor lead to a known good capacitor of same capacity. Test configuration

9. Plug test cord into multimeter to determine start and run wattage and to check for low voltage, which can also be a source of trouble indications. 

10. With power to multimeter, press start cord switch and release. If compressor motor starts and draws normal wattage, compressor is OK and trouble is in capacitor, relay/overload, freezer temperature control, or elsewhere in system. 

If compressor does not start when direct wired, recover refrigerant at high
side. After refrigerant is recovered, repeat compressor direct wire test. If
compressor runs after recovery but would not run when direct wired before
recover, a restriction in sealed system is indicated.

If compressor does not run when wired direct after recovery, replace faulty compressor. 



All refrigerators have an over-load protector which is connected on the compressor pins, this protects the compressor from voltage surge. To get access to it there is a cover that is held by either clips or screws, once removed then you can test it. If the overload protector is burned it will make it appear that the compressor motor is burned so don't be fooled. 


NOTE: This procedure may not apply to you it is ONLY for North American models so always consult with a service manual or professional. 


Good Luck !


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