# Coleman Powermate Cenerator



## okrobie (Aug 27, 2011)

Hello, I have a 5000 watt generator where the engine runs, but there is no output voltage. I called Coleman support and they suggested that I plug in a corded drill and rotate it backwards by hand while the engine was idling to restore the magnetic field. I tried this but it had no effect. I noticed that the 2 buttons on the panel are protruding like they are not set. If they are like "klixons" they may be presenting an open circuit and my drill motor voltage may not be reaching the field. Naturally, I tried to push in the buttons but they won't stay in.

What should I try next? Thanks, Jim


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## okrobie (Aug 27, 2011)

Here is a photo of the panel with buttons protruding as mentioned above:


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## wristpin (Oct 24, 2014)

You did squeeze the trigger on the drill while turning it?


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## okrobie (Aug 27, 2011)

Thanks wristpin, yes I did. When I got tired of turning it by hand, I turned it with another drill. (Don't tell anyone because I think that's dangerous.)


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## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

What is the model of the generator? Need it see what the setup is. needing to know if synchronous, AVR, or asychronous setup. Different methods testing.

And it is possible the those circuit breaker are either bad or are being trip for some reason. Testing of circuit breaker with system off is easily done with ohms meter as you for either open or close circuit condition. A good closed breaker will read zero ohms.


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## okrobie (Aug 27, 2011)

Hi AVB,thanks for your interest. Here is a shot of the nameplate :


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## okrobie (Aug 27, 2011)

Looks like the circuit breakers are OK. I'm reading 2.5 - 3.0 Ohms across the 110 receptical. That looks like the field windings to me. What do you think. I tried pushing the buttons while the Ohm meter was connected but nothing I did interrupted the continuity.


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## okrobie (Aug 27, 2011)

Is there another way to flash the magnets? I have plenty of DC sources around here. Power supplies, battery chargers etc.


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## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

Forgive takes when I'm in the shop working on other equipment. The following should help if it is a loss residual magnetism. Otherwise it can be a bad bridge rectifier board or rotor windings.

• Obtain a 12VDC battery.
• Get two jumper leads that can go from the battery to
the brushes. (Wires with alligator clips work well.)
• Find the brushes inside the alternator portion of the
unit.
• Start the engine and get it up to running speed.
• Connect the battery positive (+), to the positive brush,
which will be the brush closest to the rotor bearing.
• Connect the battery negative (-), to the negative brush,
which is the brush farthest away from the rotor bearing
(Refer to Figure 3.32).
• After about five seconds, disconnect the battery wires
from the brushes and check for proper (AC) output
voltage.
• Shut the engine down. Restart the unit and check once
again for proper (AC) output voltage.


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## okrobie (Aug 27, 2011)

I removed the endbell to gain access to the brushes and I found that the brushes are the opposite of what you said. The positive brush is farther away from the bearing and vice-versa. Here is a photo of the brush holder:


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## okrobie (Aug 27, 2011)

When I was replacing the endbell, I noticed that there are 2 loose wires that I didn't see before. Maybe I broke them loose when I was removing the endbell. I can't see where they are supposed to be attached. Have you got any idea? Thanks, Jim


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## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

No problem , Good catch though as that would if I was looking at it too. Service manual don't always have all configs listed.

If look at that circuit you probably the tw o places where those wires go. I can see a possible place in the image posted.

I wish had a copy of the wiring diagram but I don't and manual I download doesn't have one either. Maybe Coleman can provide you one.


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## okrobie (Aug 27, 2011)

These stubbs on the rectifier board are logical attachment points. Now if I can only figure out the polarity. Looks like that was connectorized at some point.


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## okrobie (Aug 27, 2011)

I decided that I couldn't do any harm by hooking the wires up randomly.The worst that could happen would be no output. (I guess I could possibly blow the diodes). I also discovered that one of the brushes had a broken braided wire in the spring so I ordered a new set. I also discovered that there is an access plate on the end bell where you can get to the brushes without removing the end bell. Of course if I didn't remove the end bell, I wouldn't have discovered the issue with the wires. (But maybe I caused that)

I'll give a report when I get it all back together.


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## okrobie (Aug 27, 2011)

Well, I installed the new brushes, reconnected the yellow wires (I tried both polarities), tried to flash the magnets, but I still don't have any output from the genterator from the receptacles on the panel. Tomorrow, I will open the panel and see what the condition of the overload switches is. I'll let you know what I find. Thanks, Jim


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## okrobie (Aug 27, 2011)

I opened the control panel and found it to be as clean as a hounds tooth. Every thing looks good. The overload switches showed a closed circuit so my hunch didn't pay off. Where do I go from here? Thanks, Jim


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## okrobie (Aug 27, 2011)

*Coleman Powermate Generator*

Here is a shot of the panel. The overload switches checked good.


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## Treereaper (Jul 10, 2011)




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## Treereaper (Jul 10, 2011)




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## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

Treereaper said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tC_LrrZcx38


I must have had too much to drink all I got blank posts but I did quote of it the link showed up.


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## AVB (Nov 28, 2014)

Never mind I forgot I was using Disconnect add-on.


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