# WD10eavs-00d7b1 hard drive fried



## cybeerian (Jul 24, 2009)

Hi,

I have a WD10eavs-00d7b1 hard drive that l've managed to fry. It still smells burned, and freezes the pc when l add it. l've taken the logic board off and tried to replace it with a similar drives logic board, and this gets the computer to recognise the drive through the disk manager, but l cant get access to it. Before going the route of buying the exact same model, firmware etc on ebay (none listed at present), l thought l'd try to remove the tvs and copy the data, throwing the drive away after. Problem is l'm not sure what to remove. Can someone tell me where the tvs is on the logic board? I've attached an image.

Thanks in advance,
Peter


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

Before removing it, verify it with a multimeter. A board swap on your drive has little chance for success. It has the Marvell chipset and part of the drive adaptives are stored in memory in the MCU of the board. You would have to have an EXACT match for Model number, firmware and there should be a small sticker on the PCB( probably on the other side on the power connector - the first two sets of numbers on that sticker must also be an exact match with the donor board - even with these matches, the adaptives of the two drives would have to be an almost perfect match. The way to do this in a DR shop is to copy the code from the MCU with special hardware and software, from both drives grab the last 1024 bytes from the patient drives code, replace the last 1024 bytes of the donor code, then write it back. There appear to be two TVS diodes on the board. Right behind the power connector. In the pic it appears to be labeled as D3. The second TVS is to the right of that labeled d4. In the pic D4 appears to be swollen so I would suspect that first. Check them with a multimeter (volt-ohm-meter) it should read open in one direction, short in the other. If it reads short in both, then the diode is bad. Unsolder one side of the diode, lift it from the PCBoard and the drive should start. 

***WARNINGS** Only power this drive with a known good PSU. You will be removing the protection for the rest of the board by removing the diode from the circuit - additional damage from another overvoltage condition could render the drive unrecoverable. You should also only run this drive long enought to copy your data off to another healthy disk. You will also void your warranty by removing the diode.


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## cybeerian (Jul 24, 2009)

Thanks for the speedy reply, and the excellent advice. You were spot on with the d4 diode. I removed one end and the drive is recognised and is allowing me to copy the data as l type.
Thanks again for taking the time to point out what the tvs was - l'd read several posts describing how to do it but all seem to assume that the reader know what the tvs looked like, and where it was located.

Cheers
Peter


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

Good glad it worked out for you! The diodes are in a slightly different different location on each board so it pretty much has to be hadnled on a case by case basis. If your issue is solved you can mark the thread colved using the thread tools above your first post.


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## docwisdom (Oct 23, 2009)

worked PERFECTLY for me too! great advise! 

fried D4 diode. Must be an issue with these mybook power supplies.

WD10EAVS


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

It could well be an issue with the power supplies - it could also be a line voltage issue. The purpose of the TVS Diodes, (D4 in this case ) is to protect from overvoltage ( hence the name "Transient Voltage Supressor"). With minor overvoltage, the device will clamp the voltage to ground until the voltage falls below it's trigger threshhold. If the overvoltage is too high, then the device burns closed , causing a dead short to ground on the power, and the symptoms seen in this thread.


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## DuK3AndY (Nov 24, 2009)

Would say thanks, too!
I have a WD10EAVS and put it on my 19V Notebook Power Supply. Now I removed the D4 Diode and it works perfectly!

Is it a big risk to run the harddisk without this diode or shout it not be a problem if i wouldn't put the wrong power supply at the disk again?


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

The problem will be if you get a power surge just through the lines. The preamp is very sensitive to overvoltages and it doesn't appear that the power supply boards in the enclosure offer much protection to the HD's circuits. You can get a surge at any time, and often we don't notice them. a brownout or blackout will often result in a surge when power comes back to normal.


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## DuK3AndY (Nov 24, 2009)

Ok, that sounds not really good.
I think i will fix it. But I don't know which kind of diode I need. I think the D4 Diode is namend "SUG GP911". Is this a kind of diode I can buy on the internet?


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

To be honest with you, I've never replaced one, we remove them quite oftne in the lab for data recovery, but in that environment we're not repairing the drive, simply recovering the data. It is a pretty common clamping diode a lot of times it seems people just canibalize one off another similar PC Board. A quick google of that number doesn't return any hits but Semtech may have some. The problem is going to be determining if the device is on the 5V or 12V leg - there is one for each. Tracing the ckt with a multi meter back to the power connector would tell you that pretty quick. http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Product_Catalogs/Littelfuse_TVS_Diode_Catalog.pdf


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## DuK3AndY (Nov 24, 2009)

Thanks!
At the moment i am making a backup and tomorrow i will check if the diode was on the 5V or 12V lane. I hope i will find a similar (or better exact) diode. You helped me a lot. Thanks!


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## HeyDude (Dec 27, 2009)

Hi folks, my first post here so a big Hello~!

Good on ya cybeerian, for initially posting your problem with the pic.

I also have the exact same problem as others here, incredible how these dont have a voltage protection diode on these in this day and age.

Also, a BIG thanks to you Raptor for providing the excellent info, as I too am now also copying my data off as I type this message.

Was totally freaking there for a while as I have a full 1TB FULL of Data. Pheww~! 

Can anybody confirm what voltage the D4 diode is?

Also, Raptor, when you say people canibalize a similar board, do you mean from another hard drive from even a different family or brand?

If someone could confirm the actual voltage of this D4 one then that too would be great.

Cheers to you all and hope you all had a great xmas. :wave:


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## DuK3AndY (Nov 24, 2009)

Hey!
I am now running this drive since my last post here without the D4 Diode and it works perfectly - but it's risky i think.
I don't know the exact type of the diode and how much volt. But raptor said, you have to use a multimeter to check this. One end at the end of the D4 Diode-Lane and the other end of the Multimeter on the power-connector of the drive. You have to check all pins from the connector. When the multimeter makes "peeeep", you found the right pin. Google will tell you, if its a 5 Volt or 12 Volt Pin. I hope I understood your question correctly?

Maybe you can cannibalize a diode from another similar board or you swap the complete board, but then it have to be EXACT the same one... same brand, same family, same typ etc.


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## DJRick (Jan 22, 2010)

I have a similar problem but I am not sure if I should try this or not, in fact let's assume the drive is still spinning up. When it spins up it will stay running for about 1 minute and then it shuts down and that is when the drive shows up in Disk Manager. But it shows up as uninitialized. And you cannot initialize it. Will removing one leg help?


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

Not likely if the drive is spinning. When the diode fails, it shunts voltage to ground and the drive is unable to spin up. You could check the diode with a multimeter, but removing it without testing and verifying could cause a lot more damage. Let's try to see what your problem might actually be. Also do not 'cut' anything off a board, these boards are often multi layer. Cutting components off can send shocks through the board that can damage other components. You must use an apropriate sized ( 15 - 25 watt ) grounded soldering iron and have at least some basic skills in soldering. Solder wick or a desoldering tool also help.
Let's get a diagnosis of your specific instance.
Exact make and model
Does BIOS recognize the hard drive correctly by model and capacity?


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## DJRick (Jan 22, 2010)

Make is = WD10EAVS-00D7B1
No the Bios does not see it either. Which doesn't make any sence. I was in the middle of a back up and I recieved a message stating the drive was not availble. No warning what so ever.


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

Sounds like a head issue. If the data s critical pro recovery, if not, then RMA to WD for replacement. They will not recover your data, simply replace the drive. Head replacement and recovery on that drive will probably run about $1200 - $2000 depending on if it is the heads and any thing else that may have failed.


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## DJRick (Jan 22, 2010)

WOW! That is not what I wanted to hear but. I guess I will have to spend it. Thanks for all you help I trully appreciate it.


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## twoegrets (Mar 6, 2010)

Wow. This is very helpful and I think I've found the right place to figure out my drive issue. I have the same drive as originally referenced in this thread. I'm a newbie on messing around with hard drives, but fairly handy and tech savy.

Here's the info off my internal casing:

S/N: WCAU4C049492
MDL: WD10EAVS - 00D7B1
WWN: 50014EE1AC761A48
DATE: 24 JUNE 2009
DCM: HHNNHT2CFN
LBA: 1953525168
R/N: 701590

(I'm paraphrasing here, so bare with me)
I took it in to a local computer store back in December and they said that it was "good news" that it my drive was not "fried-fried", so the data was save-able and it appeared to them that the boards were "shorting each other out" - The problem they said was that WD doesn't sell the boards and that they would need to try and find used drive boards that match and that unfortunately my drive was "too new" after looking at it and that they couldn't find any boards yet to match. 

Would the steps involved here help circumvent searching for the boards? and possibly help me get the data off of the drive? and/or is there a place to potentially buy boards now that could help get it up and running and get stuff off of it?


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## twoegrets (Mar 6, 2010)

Wow. This is very helpful and I think I've found the right place to figure out my drive issue. I have the same drive as originally referenced in this thread. I'm a newbie on messing around with hard drives, but fairly handy and tech savy.

Here's the info off my internal casing:

S/N: WCAU4C049492
MDL: WD10EAVS - 00D7B1
WWN: 50014EE1AC761A48
DATE: 24 JUNE 2009
DCM: HHNNHT2CFN
LBA: 1953525168
R/N: 701590

(I'm paraphrasing here, so bare with me)
I took it in to a local computer store back in December and they said that it was "good news" that it my drive was not "fried-fried", so the data was save-able and it appeared to them that the boards were "shorting each other out" - The problem they said was that WD doesn't sell the boards and that they would need to try and find used drive boards that match and that unfortunately my drive was "too new" after looking at it and that they couldn't find any boards yet to match. 

Would the steps involved here help circumvent searching for the boards? and possibly help me get the data off of the drive? and/or is there a place to potentially buy boards now that could help get it up and running and get stuff off of it?


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

Not sure what they mean the 'boards' shorting each other, there is only one board . If the problem is a TVS diode then yes this should work, assuming there were no other issues like the preamp. 
So let's try to figure out if this is a diode.
Can you feel the drive spin up when it is powered? If you do, it is likely NOT one of the diodes.
If the drive spins up - does it make any other noise?
Post a clear closeup picture of the component side of the circuit with particular attention behind the power connector.
About PCB swaps in general...
You need to match more than the Model number. On WD there is a label with bar code on the PCB itself, the first two groups of numbers must be a perfect match.
Each HD has some information that is specific to that individual drive - these are the drive adaptives. They are custom written to each drive during the manufacturing process. These can be stored in two possible locations depending on the model of the drive. In some drives it is stored in a discreet 8-pin ROM chip, this can be relatively easily moved from the patient board tot eh donor board by someone with some board level repair experience. In the case of the board shown above, with the marvel chipset, the adaptive modules are written to a memory area physically located inside the drives MCU ( Controller chip - like a CPU for a drive ) - in this case it is the Marvel chip with the large M. This is not so easily moved and requires special hardware that can read the code from the patient and rewrite it to the donor MCU.
There are lots of places that sell drives. A few sell replacement boards. You can google "hard drive donor pcb" "used hard drive" etc for the vendors. No drive manufacturer sells replacement parts. Drives evn from the same model, made in the same factory 1 day apart may not use interchangeable parts, and may be completely different on the inside. 
For some models of drives, it is much easier to match and have a higher success rate for swaps because the adaptives are stored on the Service area of the disk rather than in chips on the PCB ( Maxtor YAR's are pretty much a universal board, but an older drive). 
I also always try to order a complete donor drive, this allows me to verify the functionality of the donor components before I do the repair. If I get board only, without it's actual matching drive, I have no way to test to be sure the new board is actually functioning correctly.


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## twoegrets (Mar 6, 2010)

Thanks for this information. I've attached a couple of photos one of the backside of the board and one of the front. I haven't been able to hook it up yet to test if it's spinning or not, but will do so shortly.

Let me know if these pictures help at all.


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

The diodes you need to test are at D3 and D4. I can't see the top of the MCU ( largest square chip, near center of board, to see if it is Marvel or not but I am assuming it is since the u12 location, where the ROM would be, is empty


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## bastipower (Mar 3, 2010)

Hey guys, Tnx for the solution! I had the same problem..same HDD. But i connected a 12volt *AC*(!!) adapter to my external HDD. I checked the D4 diode with multimeter, it was fried, i removed it with a pincer  and now it works again... great stuff  
special thanks to Raptor.. your a genius..

However, like others im still wondering where to get a replacement diode. I havent got a clu, all i know is that the diode says "13L 8C" or something. 
My HDD is working for now but im a bit scared of electricity-peaks lateron...

Please let me know if any of you have got an idea..

Tnx!!


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

You should not use the drive after recovering the data until you replace the diode. The clamping voltage of the diode is critical - generally the easiest way is to grab one from a comparable board, or you can google the numbers off the diode. Also - just for reference for others who read this thread, the diode should be desoldered for removal - particularly if you want to repair the drive. Cutting can cause damage to the solder pads connection to the board, or on multilayer boards cause damage to other traces. Test the voltage at the line side of the diode you removed and that will give you the base operating voltage of the diode. Diodes will clamp at different levels above that voltage, for example a 12V diode may clamp at 12.6, 12.8 13.0 depending on it's application, this can even vary across drives of the same family as components on the PCB can change and require different protection. Bottom line is, two drives of the same model made in the same factory on the same day, may use different components both internally and on the PCB - or even have completely different physical geometry(number of platters and heads). It seems strange but that is one of the issues with HD's and matching for donors. I've seen WD drives built in the same country on the same day and the same model. Had one letter different in the DCM code, otherwise a dead match. One was one platter two heads, the other was two platter four heads. And the letter different in teh DCM is not supposed to be relevant even for head swapping.


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## bastipower (Mar 3, 2010)

Hmm, you sound quite serious.. im not sure whether i will be able to acquire a diode shortly. Im trying to weigh the costs and benefits.. i use my HDD mainly to store downloadable content.. movies/music etc. I've now backed up the essential data, and intended to keep using the HDD for the less important downloadable content.

* I was wondering, will the condition of the drive deteriorate in time and eventually die, when the diode is absent? Or (as a assume) will it die suddenly and unexpectedly after a (rare) (powerful(?) power surge?.. Or am a now seriously underestimating the matter? 
I thought the DC adapter might cover any major surges.. 

**And is the deadly power surge inevitable within a short period (weeks/months)?

***Are there any ways to avoid a deadly power surge by taking some measures against it... for example a power surge protector?

However as you might expect im not an expert in electronics  What would you do in my situation?

Tnx again!


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

When we get a drive in for recovery, we remove the diode, recover the data to another disk, and recommend the customer replace the drive. To answer your other questions..
Surge supressor - will block major spikes, it doesn't take major spikes to cause issues with the electronics, the diodes normally clamp at .5 .6 volts over normal, surge supressors look at several volts overvoltage.
The condition will not deteriorate. The diode normally will clamp and shunt the overvoltage to ground, then release and act normallly again without you being aware. That is for voltage below it's breakdown voltage ( which varies depending on the specs of the diode ) when it fails as yours did, it received an overvoltage greater than it's breakdown. So it may have shunted voltages dangerous to more sensitive components and you were never aware. The spike doesn't have to be powerful, and can be as simple as the spike after a brownout or a condition that causes lights to flicker, we normally think of those as a drop in voltage/current - but can often include a spike also - a lot depends on the quality of the electrical service in your area.
The DC adapter primarily relies on a fuse, which is a current limiting device, you can still get a significant spike past the fuse in the supply.
The diodes only job is to protect more sensitive critical components and to prevent data loss which is basically what it did in your case. 
If you google the part number off the diode you could probably match up the correct diode. If you can't find an exact match, look for a similarly sized device that clamps at say .6 - .8 volts above the workinig voltage for that diode ( one will be 5VDC the other 12VDC) It may not be 100% but is better than no protection. You can google Transien Voltag Supression Diode to get some manufacturer's. Unfortunately HD manufacturer's don't release detailed schematics and specs on their HD components.


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## bastipower (Mar 3, 2010)

Tnx  that clears things up quite a bit.

For the last 5 hours i have been trying to understand how these diodes work. I've come across many new technological concepts. Like "Reverse Stand-off Voltage" and "Breakdown Voltage".

_WIKIPEDIA: "Maximum Reverse Standoff Voltage:: the voltage below which no significant conduction occurs."_

So if i want the diode to start clamping at 12.6v then 12.6 is the breakdown voltage, am i right?

Anyway, i found this site where you can specify your diode: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Cat=655429

My diode was printed with the text: "13L 8C" so i assumed "13" stands for the breakdown voltage... But its more of a guess than it is knowledge. 

To make a long question short.. Do you think you will be able to find a proper diode for me using that website and entering the a breakdown voltage and Reverse Standoff Voltage? (assuming that D4 is a 12VDC)

Thanks!


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

Well first off make sure D4 is the 12 VDC diode, a quick check with a multimeter on say a 20 VDC range from each pad of the diod to a ground should show that. One pad will be the working voltage, the other pad should read 0. 12.6 is the reverse standoff voltage the breakdown voltage is where the diode would fail catastrophically and conduct at all times. Not knowing the circuit design it would be tough to find an exact replacement. Best guess if it is the 12 Volt diode would be reverse voltage at 12.8 breakdown at probably mid 13 the rest of the specs however would have to be matched from the original component. not sure what the packaging my be, I would expect it to be unidirectional, but again even that can't be inferred directly from simple observation.


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## Grrrr-ita (Mar 21, 2010)

Hi, I am Italian.
Sorry for my English 
I have this hard drive and it doesn't work.
I checked the diode D3 and is not working. do i cut the diode D3?
Thanks 
Andrea


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## Grrrr-ita (Mar 21, 2010)

I cut the diot D3 2 minutes ago but the hard drive doesn't work :'(

I try to cut the diode D4?


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

What did the diodes show on a multimeter?


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## Grrrr-ita (Mar 21, 2010)

raptor_pa said:


> What did the diodes show on a multimeter?


I didn't do I the checked the diode. He did a technician and you told me that the diode D4 was functional while the diode D3 wasn't.


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

If someone checked the diodes, and D4 was functional then no need to remove it. Do any other components show any damage?


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## twoegrets (Mar 6, 2010)

Hello Raptor,

It looks like we have a few of us dealing with the same issues now. Thanks for all your help!

So...

I was traveling for a few a days, just now had a chance to get back to this. I tested the diodes with a multimeter.

The D3 did show some movement on the multimeter. It was bouncy, but in the range of 60, then would drop down to 100 and hold steady there.

The D4 held steady at 25. And just appeared to be more steady in general (if that's the right description of the result) 

Any thoughts from here?


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

Testing with a meter with a diode checl position is easier. Test with cables disconnected. Since the devices are diodes, they must be checked with polarity in both directions. They should show short in one direction ( beep) open in the other direction ( no beep ) If your meter doesn't have a diode check position the check on the ohms scale looking for a short or very low resistance one way, a much higher resistance the other.


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## twoegrets (Mar 6, 2010)

OK. So I set the multimeter to "Ohm X1K" a placed one probe (red and black) on each end of the D3 Diode and I got "100" going one way and "2" going the other way.

On the D4 diode I got "25" going one way and "2.5" going the other way.

The manual for the multimeter states: "if the meter is set to X1K, multiply the resistance value by 1000"

Does that help?


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

D3 sounds good, D4 hoewever could be blown, no Diode check on there? ( Usually looks like the schematic symbol for a diode similar to ->|- http://www.ertyu.org/steven_nikkel/images/bsm/diode-schematic.jpg


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## twoegrets (Mar 6, 2010)

I tested it again and both the D3 and D4 are good. So I'm not lucky there, what's next?


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

Looking back across the thread, you said earlier you hadn't been able to verify if the drive was spinning. Can we assume you did connect and test and the drive is not spinning? Does the drive show in BIOS at all, either by correct model number or as WD_ROM_MODEL_XXXXXXXX where X's are the drive family name?


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## ricknau (Jun 25, 2010)

Raptor

I can't thank you enough! Add me to the list of successful fixes with the D4 removal.

I will add my efforts to the those already trying to locate a proper replacement for the diode. Will post back with my results.

Thanks again


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## ricknau (Jun 25, 2010)

OK here's what I've figured out based on the Littelfuse pdf that Raptor gave a link to. 

First off I verified with an ohm meter that that D4 does connect between the the 12v input and ground. Below is a summary of the possible choices from Littelfuse:

_________________breakdown
____________Vr___min __max___Vc___Ipp____Ppp(W)_pkg
P4SMA15A__12.8__14.3__15.8__21.2__19.3___400_____AC
SMAJ13A___13.0__14.4__15.9__21.5__18.6___400_____AC
SACB12____12.0__13.3________19.0__29.0___500_____AA
SACB15____15.0__16.7________23.6__20.0___500_____AA
SMCJ13A___13.0__14.4__15.9__21.5__69.8___1500____AB
1KSMB15A__12.8__14.3__15.8__21.2__47.2__1000_____AA


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## ricknau (Jun 25, 2010)

OK here's what I've figured out based on the Littelfuse pdf that Raptor gave a link to. BTW, I am a schooled electronics person. Would hesitate to claim to be an expert in anything but I work with electronics every day.

(I will tell you now and save you the read that only one viable choice can be bought in small quantities, and that is the SMAJ13A) 

First off I verified with an ohm meter that that D4 does connect between the the 12v input and ground. Also I measured the wall module power supply for my HD to have a 12.4VDC output unloaded. Sometimes the delivered volts can drop slightly when put under load but it almost never goes up. I would have measured it under load but couldn't easily get to the test points.

Below is a summary of the possible choices from Littelfuse:
(I had to use dashes to make columns. The "min" and "max" apply to breakdown voltage.)
All of these specs except for Vr are derived from tests using specific pulse parameters and so are for comparison only. The device may behave differently under different real-life surge stresses. 

_________________breakdown
____________Vr___min __max___Vc___Ipp____Ppp(W)_pkg
SMAJ13A___13.0__14.4__15.9__21.5__18.6___400_____AC
SMCJ13A___13.0__14.4__15.9__21.5__69.8___1500____AB
P4SMA15A__12.8__14.3__15.8__21.2__19.3___400_____AC
1KSMB15A__12.8__14.3__15.8__21.2__47.2___1000____AA
SACB12____12.0__13.3________19.0__29.0___500_____AA
SACB15____15.0__16.7________23.6__20.0___500_____AA

The definition of these parameters can be gotten from the pdf file.

Suffice to say:

Vr is the "working voltage". If the volts rise above this level it will shunt the power supply volts to ground. We want this only slightly above the voltage supplied by the power supply. 

Breakdown voltage - If the volts go above some breakdown level the diode will protect the hard drive but the diode will be destroyed. (Don't we all know!) It varies from diode to diode hence a range of min/max. We want a fairly large "gap" between where we get protection that kills vs doesn't kill the diode.

The other columns are power ratings that the device can tolerate. Without going into boring classroom details suffice to say that higher wattage is better. And... note that Vc is almost identical for all the diodes. This means that the higher wattage diodes can survive higher current surges and maintain the voltage projection level of the lesser wattage diodes.

The "pkg" column denotes the physical size of the diode. It is almost always related to the power rating of a device, i.e., higher wattage devises are larger than low wattage. Interestingly, we can make some better guesses to what the original diode is by its size. I think it is an AC package so it probably has a 400(ish) wattage rating.

Conclusions:

Note that all the important parameters vary only slightly. So the differences aren't radical.

I eliminate the SACB12 and SACB15 because Vr 12 is too low and 15 is too high.
I eliminate the SMCJ13A because the AB package is too big.

That only leaves three. And though the decision should boil down to a "working" voltage level and wattage you are comfortable with, wouldn't you know it, the 1KSMB15A and P4SMA15A aren't available in small quantities! 

So guess what? I'm going to buy a SMAJ13A! My hunch is that it is real close to what came with the hard drive. I found it here:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/D..._go&lang=en&site=us&keywords=SMAJ13A&x=9&y=14

I feel compelled here to make the standard disclaimer:
I don't claim to be an expert. I might be wrong in everything I said. I don't accept responsibility for any consequences you suffer based on this forum post.

And lastly, thanks to Raptor and all the moderators of this great forum. With out them we would all still be crying on our dead hard drives!


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

Looks like a reasonable choice assuming the package fits  Good job on the research and great post!


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## ricknau (Jun 25, 2010)

SMAJ13A installed and working great. $0.35 plus a couple bucks shipping. Got it in 4 days.


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## dpsd (Jul 24, 2010)

Hi, this thread is a bit old but I wanted to post my experience with a similar problem. I had a WD hard drive which fell victim to a brown out. As an electrical engineer I started to study the board on the hard drive and discovered the TVS diode had let out its magic smoke. I went as far as removing the diode but then started to look for a replacement board when I learned I couldn't purchase a similar diode. In the process of searching for a donor drive on craigslist and E-bay, I found a company which could provide a new board for me. It only cost $50 and was a very easy process. In a couple of weeks I got all my data back. 

In addition they had a lot more experience and told me that not all donor boards are direct replacements. So even if I had bought what I thought was a similar used donor drive, it might not have worked. The 50 bucks included a firmware transfer from my blown board. Again it may be too late being this thread hasn't been posted to since March but if you are like me, your hard drive board is still sitting on the work bench with no diode and your wife is still harping on you for losing her pictures of the little ones.

Hope this helps others out there. Here is the company's website:
http://www.onepcbsolution.com/

Update Note: I didn't realize there was more to this thread... Looks like you fixed your HD a few weeks ago for only $.35 at that. Good job! I'll leave this post for others looking for other options.


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## Oltol (Jul 26, 2010)

Hi I'm a newbie searching for answer. I'm hoping my 1TB HDD is just a D4 problem. After power outage my windows could not see the drive. I could locate it in the device manager, however the volume is 0GB, it knows that it is a WD manufacturer but that's all it can recognize. I can hear the motor speeding up fast in 2 seconds then click. It will do that up to three times then silence. Please tell me my luck....


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

That is not a diode proble. Could be heads,, preamp, or something else on the PC Board


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## whatsmyusername (Jul 29, 2010)

Hello all. I've read the thread and it seems I may have a head problem according to Raptor's assessment of another post but my situation is slighty different. After a Windows update last week after rebooting I was met with "Bank interleave requested but not enabled" by the bios. After researching this from my laptop it seems to be memory related. 

The Gateway tech support suggested that remove the ram, remove the cmos battery then reinstall, replace the ram, boot to dvd and flash the bios with an upgrade from the manufacturer. The tech believed it to be driver/sata controller related which has is controlled by Windows not the bios so his advice made no sense but I did it anyway. Next reboot I received the same error but in addition an error saying Primary disk 4 error.

The suspect drive is a 500gb Western Digital WD5000aaks about 2 years old. I bought a 1 tb Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 and installed it with no problems. I tried to boot with the WD as a slave and received the same error. The WD spins up immediately with no noises, no fluctuations in rpm, and runs like a scalded dog. Obviously the bios is recognizing it(with errors) but Device Manager, Disk management, WD Lifeguard, and Seatools will not recognize the drive. I tried to download Acronis from the WD website but despite having a 1 tb WD Mybook and the suspect drive attached it denied access for not having a WD drive in my system-lol. 

The PCB as you can see in the picture has a place near where the sata cables plug into the board that is possibly burnt. Before I start attempting to brick the PCB I wanted an informed opinion. Obviously it's getting power; the heads make no noise at all and it runs like new, subtract the communication problem. The bank interleave error has me still leaning towards software/driver issues or maybe boot record issues but I'm wrong a lot-lol-and have tried everything I know. There isn't much out there on bank interleave errors that isn't hit and miss. Please help...I've been pretty lazy with backups in the last few months and the lost data is important.


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## whatsmyusername (Jul 29, 2010)

The link for the photo didn't work above..here is the picture.


[img=http://s957.photobucket.com/albums/ae55/whatsmyusernames_pics/?action=view&current=026.jpg]http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/ae55/whatsmyusernames_pics/026.jpg[/img]


http://s957.photobucket.com/albums/ae55/whatsmyusernames_pics/?action=view&current=026.jpg


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

Is the drive identified correctly in BIOS by Model, or is it something like WD_ROM_MODEL_XXXXX? When you say it runs well, what exactly do you mean, just platter speed and no noise or other criteria?


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## whatsmyusername (Jul 29, 2010)

Wow that was quick Raptor! No during reboot it merely states Primary Hard drive 4 error or someting close to that and prompts me to hit F2 to continue. Once in bios the drive isn't listed anywhere. I'm no hardware expert but the platter starts spinning immediately when powered on with no noise or read/write action even. I've had past drives that clanked like a symbol when they failed and I've had some that just stopped spinning period but never this so I assumed it was a good sign(self defense mechanism no doubt-lol).

Also the drive error started occuring after the cmos/bios flash; before it just stopped on the bank interleave error and routed me to bios. The brown on the board doesn't look like it's normal so maybe the pcb has physical damage.

Sorry for the huge pic-I went to photo bucket and down sized it to a quarter of its original size but no change as of yet.


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

It's actually too small to see the area you are talking about now  Bigger is OK we can scroll LOL. Or just attach it to your poat in the advanced editor


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## whatsmyusername (Jul 29, 2010)

There is another close up. Took my daughters out for dinner yesterday evening and bought a dual external enclosure that can accept two 3.5" or 2.5" drives and copy one to the other without hooking to a computer or you can use one or both as an external simultaneously for backup or everyday use. It came with its own power supply, and can be plugged with either an eSATA cord or a USB 2-both included for $60! I didn't have time for much analysis but I had to plug the WD5000aaks into the gizmo and hook to the computer before going to bed.

The bios picked the drive up immediately and vaguely identified it grouping it in the hard drive catagory without any parameters or volume info. Windows picked it up immediately as well but the weird thing is that Device Manager and My Computer has it listed as a DVD/CD drive. Disk management lists it as a HDD but flags it as needing to be initialized and showing 0 used and 0 free like a DVD drive without a disk in it. I have WD lifeguard and a couple of there other diagnostics and they all see the drive and list it as HDD but no volume info. I got a bit hasty for a sec and ran Quick Test in WD Lifeguard but it failed immediately, which was probably for the best actually. I have my hopes up that I may be able to rescue the data but don't want to be hasty. 

I read the sticky with testdisk and photorec but I'm not sure they are the correct tools here as I can't see the partition anywhere. My gut is telling me to stay away from Vista 64 Chkdsk even though errors may be a major culprit. I can't rule out physical damage yet-I know; either way its a nasty situation I'm facing. I'm thinking that trying to fix the boot record in Windows Recovery Manager may be the best way to move forward. What do you guys think? I have an image and a complete backup/restore disk for the WD5000aaks from the Gateway's first day out of the box and another set from about 2.5 months ago if you know of a way those could help the current situation.:4-dontkno


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

Is the drive identified by the correct complete model number? Two primary possibilities, one is the direction you are heading, the 0/0 thing tho leads to a possible PCB issue. The problem is wit what it looks like you have for the PCB , there is no rom chip to move to the new board, which means it will take special hardware to copy the rom code from the MCU. but we'll deal with that when we get tto it. Your gut is right, avoid chkdsk, and in fact at this point avoid any windows built in tools. Go with testdisk first to see if it can identify the disk correctly and if it can rebuild the Boot Sector


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## whatsmyusername (Jul 29, 2010)

Raptor-sorry for the slow reply, I had my daughters this weekend. Test disk and Photorec display incorrect drive capacities(lists 144 tbs! pic included) and advise that in order for successful retrieval that the capacties need to be correct, so I attempted to correct the capacity issue but with no avail. Loading the manufacturers drivers for the SATA controller proved to be a challenge I couldn't overcome. Windows kept denying the suggested drivers stating that the best driver was already installed without listing what driver is being used! I could do a force uninstall but we're talking hard drive control here and if the computer booted up after the forced uninstall at all, Windows would most assuredly automatically search and install its own preferred drivers. 

One thing is for certain, Testdisk, Photorec, and another utility I played with, all have control over the hard drive and I can hear and feel the heads in action during search requests. Should I attempt to go forward without the proper capacities? I don't want to damage the data, I would rather pay for the data recovery than destroy the data. Does Testdisk give you an option to repair the boot record past the prompt that I stopped at without attempting to recover the data?


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

testdisk will allow you to rewrite the BS and then confirm the write, but it is a permanent write. Is this a 64 bit version of windows? If it is not 64 bit the I would try Partition find and mount, it will let you mount found partitions without rewriting the drive, and copy the files out to another disk. www.findandmount.com


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## coderjedi (Dec 1, 2010)

I'm hoping and praying you're still around, Raptor. This post has been idle for several months, but I'm desperate and in the middle of a nervous breakdown.

I have this same drive, and it's actually exactly as pictured by the original poster in the opening post.

It is only a year old, and always worked very well. However, the drive spent a week or so in a non-air-conditioned storage unit while I was moving (sad but I had no where else for it to go).

I unpack it and plug it in.. "Verrrrrr CLICK...CLICK...CLICK..." and I give it a strange look.. but laptop shows Found new hardware, etc, etc. USB mass storage device, so I disregard the clicking.. Until.. No familiar autoplay window. Didn't show up in My Computer, I begin to panic.

Shows in Device Manager as "WD." Properties->Volumes->Populate returns 0s and "unreadable."

I immediately dismantle the drive from the enclosure and connect it to my handy IDE/SATA usb device. Same.

I researched for a few hours and learned that with some newer boards, high temperature from environment or operating temp can cause the coating on the board to melt onto the unsoldered pads on the PCB that meet up to the drive. I follow the instructions and remove the PCB and use a pencil eraser to clean all the pads. All good and shiny, I put it back on.

Connect it all up.. "Verrrrrrr click...click....click". I panic again. After some more research, I determine I may have stuck heads from storage, impact, who knows. I listen to the fools online and double freezer bag it, wrap the bags tightly with electrical tape, hoping to keep out any form of condensation, and drop it in the freezer overnight..

Now I go to plug it in and it has a very faint "errrr...doo-dee-doo.... errrr....doo-dee-doo..." but doesn't spin up. :upset:

Okay so I find this post and get the idea to whip out the multimeter.. check voltage to the main platter motor pads on bottom of drive and notice that while it's making its sad faint whimpers, the voltage is all over the place, up and down in time with the sounds (drive trying to spin, that is).

I look at another similar drive, and voltage is consistent 5v.

Just before I moved I consolidated all of my random drives onto this "awesome, answer to all answers of backup solutions" 1TB drive and zerofill all my other drives so i could toss them without worry to save space in my move.

As a software and web developer, all of my work for the past 14 years is on this drive. All of my pictures from the past 10-12 years is on here, including my one and only photos of family who has passed away, wedding photos and videos, etc.

I am literally desperate, I will do anything. (can you tell by my full blown mid-term worthy essay I've written here?)

Can you please help me?

***** UPDATE *****
Measured forward voltage drop on D3, reads 0.422v. Reversed it tests .0Fv.

Measured forward voltage drop on D4, reads 0.518v. Reversed it tests 1.463v. ***?


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## coderjedi (Dec 1, 2010)

***** Update 2 *****
Decided to backup my first update with some ohm readings.

I am handy with a multimeter and I can solder like an asian woman on speed, but I have no idea how to actually perform component level testing. So I'll just relay the results...

D3:
Positive lead to anode: 20M
Positive lead to cathode: 18.55K

D4:
Positive lead to anode: 177.5K
Positive lead to cathode: 164.5K

Oh, P.S. D3 is on the 5v circuit, D4 is on the 12v circuit (just an FYI, as I didn't see anyone else answer that)


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## coderjedi (Dec 1, 2010)

Hmm okay impatient me went ahead and desoldered and removed D4. Still no luck. Drive attempts to spin up 3 times, but makes the 'errrrrr-doo-dee' sounds and stops. Freezer killed it. I'm pissed at myself.


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

Didn't see this till this morning. Any attempt to spin up, even if unsuccessful indicates the diode is not the issue. If blown, the TVS diode shunts voltage directly back to ground so the drive won't even attempt spinning. The clicking is the heads moving from inner stop to outer stop, so if the drive is clicking, stuck heads is not the issue. The sound you are hearing is the drive trying to spin up. At this point you may now have stuck heads, bad motor or bearing. My guess based on your report would be stuck heads. This one will require recovery in a clean room. Likely $1500+ These drives are a pain to work on, and sometimes take time to find a suitable matching donor. I've been looking for one for about three weeks for a customer drive.


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## coderjedi (Dec 1, 2010)

hm okay so lets say I decide to build an ISO-5 clean room..

what exactly would I need to do to get my data?

What are the chances of me very carefully opening up a donor drive, removing its platters, and inserting mine in place? How close would model #s, etc, would I need to match it up to?


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

On that drive, chances are less than 1%. The cost of even a good laminar flow bench would far exceed the cost of a recovery. A platter swap also involves removing and replacing the heads. WD drives also have an issue getting the heads realigned. You need to match Model number, dcm number, date has to be close, country of origin exact full model number. First two groups of numbers on the label on the PCB. You will also need the tools to remove the platters, about $800 from China. There are multiple platters in these drives, and all platters need to be removed together to prevent them from shifting. If the platters get out of line rotationally, they will never read. This is not something that can be marked and visually aligned, it MUST be maintained. You are dealing with tolerances that eve a micron or two will cause complete failure. A single strand of hair is 20 to 180 microns.


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## mercykiller (Dec 7, 2010)

o.k Raptor man can you please help me fix my dumb @-- mistake, I have a 
seagate 
momentus 5400.5 
160gb 
5400rpm
firmware de04
was trying to pull a virus off using a usb to sata and had the power supply part in wrong, long story short when i put the drive back in the laptop , dead nothing not even boot to bios . so after looking at some forums saw that tsv might be fried and needed to be removed, so I unsoldered the burnt part, and now when i put it in the machine the hdd lights up but says no boot device present. is there something else i need to do.any help would be appriciated.


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

Can you feel the drive spin up? Are you wsure the device you pulled was a TVS diode? Very few 2.5 drives have a TVS. It may have been a 0 ohm resistor which would act like a fuse.
If the drive spins up, try connecting it as a second drive on another machine and see if you can see the file structure. It might not boot, but the may be readable.


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## mercykiller (Dec 7, 2010)

no, i am not sure if it was or not and when i hook it up to a desktop as a secondary i cannot feel it spin up,and is not visable, would replacing the resistor help ?


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## mercykiller (Dec 7, 2010)

and i had stumbled across this forum and this is what made me think it was a tvs

http://forum.hddguru.com/pcb-needed-for-seagate-320-5400-t15489.html


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## xboxerover8 (Jan 13, 2011)

To Raptor_pa a very BIG thank you.
My WD10EAVS was out of business for nearlly a year.
Every month I would have search with google and the only thing I could come up with was a PCB swap.
Till i read remove D4. Removed it, the hard drive now works. So I replaced the diode with the on from the PCB i had ordered and it is running like new again.

Once again. Thank you.
Cheers
Ian


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## Sceptre (Feb 3, 2011)

This has to be one of the longest standing threads I’ve ever seen, and Raptor_pa is very knowable so I thought why not. 

My problem is same as many on here, I attached the wrong power cord to it. But unlike many others my drive spins up fine, detects fine, Windows sees it as a raw drive but cannot partition it. WD Diag can read the S/N and gives it a green light until you actually run a test, then it error out or locks.

 Recovery software even tries to read it sometimes but finds nothing or I get I/O errors. Oh, the drive is the same model WD10EAVS-00D7B1 but a little newer made on 12 Jan 2009.

 Just for fun I checked R2D2 and as expected they are fine, OH I mean D3 & D4.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

You have done just about all the diagnostics you can do at home. Only other thing to try would be to run MHDD 9 HDDGURU: Laptop and Desktop Hard Disk Drives, Tests, Software, Firmware, Tools, Data Recovery, HDD Repair ) and see if it reports any more detail.. If the serial is reported then the board is being read. So it sounds like perhaps the preamp on the head stack is gone.


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## Sceptre (Feb 3, 2011)

That’s what I figured. FYI, I just ran MHDD, results where…..*****CATASTROPHIC FAILURE***** 
Do you have a favorite data recovery company here in the good old U.S. of A.?
And would you care to guess at the chances of getting anything off of it. 
Thanks again.


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

LOL, yes I do have a favorite, but I can't recommend them by forum rules since that is the one I work for LOL. Sorry. Best bet would be to research a couple and post them here, i can comment on the ones you select. Most will have a no data/no fee policy, if the drive is unrecoverable there is no charge, and they will give you a quote after the evaluation before proceeding.


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## Sceptre (Feb 3, 2011)

Nothing like a little detective work. FYI there is nothing but mountains in "central PA"
Iomega
Disk Doctors
CompRecovery
Gillware
Drivesavers
Ontrack


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

LOL, we're in there, myharddrivedied.com and DTI should also be on that list. Know both of them well...
Bud


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## rosebud11 (Mar 7, 2011)

Hi, I'm also one of the unlucky bastards who fried their hard drive.
Its a WD10EAVS-00D7B1 and the diodes are ok.
It starts spinning normal, but the bios did not recognice it.

I have the chance to buy a new controller board. It has the same number near the power connector (2060-701590-000 REV A).

Should i try it or is there a chance to double the damage with a board that's not fitting?

cu rosebud


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

You will need to move the ROM, and on that drive it requires special hardware to copy it out and reload it. I haven't seen any of those with discreet rom chips. If the preamp is shorted, then you could do damage to the replacement board - that however is rare on these drives.


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## rosebud11 (Mar 7, 2011)

Wow, thanks for the fast answer.
I read all the previous post and a guy mentioned this site:
Any PCB with firmware transfer

Is that what you mean?

I managed to fry it on the data bus side.  the main fuse of my flat blowed.
Do you think the ROM might be damaged.

cu
rosebud


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

rarely is the ROM damaged, If it was a power issue however it is more likely to be something on the power side. Did you test the diodes with a multimeter, or are you just assuming they are OK since they show no physical damage? They do not always appear defective, the only way to be sure is checking with a multimeter. Theorestically if it is spinning then it is not the diodes, but its an easy check to be sure.


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## rosebud11 (Mar 7, 2011)

Yes the diodes are okay. I tested them with a multimeter.
The power surge came through the data bus. It also fried the connected pc. :sigh:

do you think I should give the mentioned company a try?

cu
rosebud


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

I haven't used them, but I've heard some good stories, it's about $50 so worth the shot.


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## rosebud11 (Mar 7, 2011)

Thanks for the advice. 
Now wish me luck.

cu rosebud


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## dankec (Apr 18, 2011)

Hello,

is there any chance to have a spinning disk with defective diodes?
My disk is spinning, no clicking or something but BIOS doesn't seem to recognize it: it doesn't see disk at all... What could it be?


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

@dankec
If the disk is spinning likely not the Diodes. Sounds more like a firmware failure.Please start a new topic and include the make and model number of the disk.


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## dankec (Apr 18, 2011)

raptor_pa said:


> @dankec
> If the disk is spinning likely not the Diodes. Sounds more like a firmware failure.Please start a new topic and include the make and model number of the disk.


Done.
http://www.techsupportforum.com/forums/f16/wd10eavs-1tb-disk-failure-567514.html#post3227599

Thanks in advance.


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## thirdeyebrow (May 17, 2011)

I've read all the posts, and am wondering what my next step should be. I think I fried my PCB by plugging it in to too much power. I've attached photos of the board because it looks to my eye like the D4 is not bulging and that metallic parts of the board have browned (burnt?). 

As I understand it, I've got two options:

1) Buy a multimeter and test the D4 diode. If it's a problem, unsolder it.

2) Find a drive with the same PCB and first two sets of numbers on the bar code and cross my fingers (or pay $50 via online service mentioned) to copy the ROM.

Does that sound about right? Thanks so much for your help!

Also, does anyone by any chance have a functioning PCB they're done with or would lend out for the cause?


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

The diodes don't always show obvious damage. This board would need the ROM copied over, but if the diodes are good, then it can be difficult to tell if the issue is the PCB or something internal. The preamp could be bad, damage to the Service area or heads.
Does the drive spin up? Does it make any clicking noise or other unusual sounds? The discoloration on the pads looks like pretty normal oxidation on the no lead solder that is now being used. A bit more description of your symptoms would make it easier to try to diagnose.


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## thirdeyebrow (May 17, 2011)

Thanks for the fast reply! I took the bare drive to a computer shop to see if it would spin up and the guy there unplugged it almost as soon as he had plugged it in because it was getting very hot near where the power connected. Since plugging it in to the wrong power supply in the beginning, I haven't heard any movement from the drive.


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

OK then likely to be the TVS diode, check them with a multi-meter with a diode test position. There should be two near the power connector, one on the 5 vdc line one on the 12vdc line. The shop should be able to check them for you.


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## thirdeyebrow (May 17, 2011)

Assuming it is a TVS diode, can those be removed and allow the drive to power up? I ask because this particular computer store doesn't do that kind of work and if I will need a new PCB in the end, I might just start there.


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

The drive will power up but should only be used for recovery, not for actual use. A straight PCBoard swap will likely not work on this drive. The ROM code from the MCU of the patient drive needs copied to the MCU of the donor drive, and this requires special hardware. You will also need to match the Model number, date code will have to be as close as possible, country of origin and at least the first two groups of numbers from the label on the PCB.


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## thirdeyebrow (May 17, 2011)

I bought a multimeter, set it to a diode testing mode and came up with the results I've indicated in the photos below. Being an absolute novice, I'm not sure I put the leads in the correct locations to test. The instructions mentioned something about disconnecting a diode's lead from the circuit, but I'd rather leave the soldering up to a professional. 

Assuming I'm doing it right, given that the D4 diode has a low reading in both directions, I'm inclined to think it's shorted. What I don't understand is why when I test across the board I get the same readings from D4 to Y1(?) as D3 to Y1(?).

I should also mention the red lead on the multimeter was plugged in to V.Ω.mA and not 10A Max. If I'm too much of a novice, please feel free to tell me to just go find a pro locally. I thought I'd give things a try to see where the short is (and learn a little in the process) before finding someone else to fix it. Thanks for your patience and interest!


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## machofairy (May 21, 2011)

This is a fantastic thread and I believe I have exactly the same problem but I just need a little help ...

I have uploaded a close up of the D3 and D4 diodes. Can anyone tell if there is a problem. There is "burnt" smell around that area but I am unable to pinpoint exactly where it is.

Like thirdeyebrow, I also have managed to get hold of a multimeter, but do not know how to use it :4-dontkno

Which pin goes where and where should the dial be? what reading should I see on the display?

Thanks in advance! Raptor you have amazing knowledge!!


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

@thirdeye removed4 and see if the drive powers up.
@machofairy, use diode test position and test with polarity going both directions. the photo above is a great indicator of the results and polarity in testing. The readings of values close together with polarity reversed indicates the diode is conducting in both directions, a diode should only conduct in one direction, indicated by readings similar to D3 above.


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## machofairy (May 21, 2011)

raptor_pa said:


> @thirdeye removed4 and see if the drive powers up.
> @machofairy, use diode test position and test with polarity going both directions. the photo above is a great indicator of the results and polarity in testing. The readings of values close together with polarity reversed indicates the diode is conducting in both directions, a diode should only conduct in one direction, indicated by readings similar to D3 above.


THank you so very much for your help raptor! I managed to get my drive going again after removing D4 and am copying over the contents to a new driver right now as I am typing this! ray:


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## raptor_pa (Dec 5, 2008)

Glad it was a simple fix!


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## thirdeyebrow (May 17, 2011)

Just wanted to report it worked for me too! Thanks a million Raptor! 

Just a note- with a 40 watt soldering iron, I wasn't able to heat the plugs holding the D4 diode in place so I wound up prying it off with a needle-nose pliers. I know this is dangerous, but it worked for me.


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## machofairy (May 21, 2011)

thirdeyebrow said:


> Just wanted to report it worked for me too! Thanks a million Raptor!
> 
> Just a note- with a 40 watt soldering iron, I wasn't able to heat the plugs holding the D4 diode in place so I wound up prying it off with a needle-nose pliers. I know this is dangerous, but it worked for me.


same here! soldering iron not hot enough, so a stanley knife was used.


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## ne0x (Nov 29, 2011)

Thank you so much Raptor for all the advice! Here is what happened:

Me freaking out when I fried my HDD, then I found this forum. I read it very carefully and decided to try the D4 TVS diode method. I already bought another case to make sure it wasn't my case control board. 

I didn't have Torx screwdrivers so I bought a box of em (mixed with regulars, these will always come in handy..) BUT, when I tried to open the control board, 1 screw didn't want to cooperate (^^). I was swearing and hitting ****, I was really upset. Waiting two days and the damn screw wouldn't give in. I tried everything...

Then I saw this small hole on the side of the HDD, where I could just see the control board surface AND THE D4 DIODE! I decided to have faith, got out the smallest screw driver and knocked that ****** out of its socket through the hole lol...

Transferring files as we speak!

Sometimes violence IS the answer 

Thanks again!!

Ferdy (from Amsterdam)


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## Youngscottknows (Dec 6, 2011)

Hi, I'm not sure if my problem is the same but hope you can point me in the right direction nevertheless.

My hard drive is the WD10 EAVS-32D7B1 and was originally within my WD MyBookWorld NAS drive (this was the first edition, single drive version). It stopped responding a couple of days ago and could no longer be accessed across my Network or even if connected directly to a PC network port. I could hear a small clicking sound suggesting that the drive was still running.

I removed the Drive from the disk enclosure and put it into my main PC, set in a serial configuration with my main SATA Hard Drive in this machine (funnily enough also a WD drive).

I am sure I can still hear it running, although in the main PC there is already the main drive running along with a couple of fans, so I can't be sure it is actually the problem drive I can hear.

As you can see from the attached, my drive is visible in Windows Device Manager, and is discovered by both Seatools and Testdisk. Seatools shows the Drive failing the short DST test but it passes the others. I can also see the full name of the Drive in the BIOS. I note that Testdisk describes each of the partitions as Linux RAID and wondered whether this might affect my ability to see it in the all important My Computer to allow me to copy the data across. Sadly, it never appears and I can't access any of the data (years of family photos).

Is there anything else I could check to try and get my PC to recognise this drive or is it one for the Data Recovery specialists?


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## Networks (Mar 20, 2011)

Youngscottknows your hijacking a thread < considered rude> this is no way similar to your issue. Please start a new thread with the above info and lets proceed on that thread


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## zzccsyd (Nov 28, 2012)

WD10eavs-00d7b1, I have this HD down three years ago, I used wrong adapter. I read all thread here and removed D3 and D4, but no lucky. I replaced an exactly same PCB, the HD is spining, but bios doesn't recognize it. can someone help me on this? thanks.


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## spunk.funk (May 13, 2010)

zzccsyd Please do not Hijack someone else's thread. Maybe a nice Mod will move your thread to a new post?


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