# Tecumseh Carburetor Removal



## crazydoctorbob (Dec 23, 2008)

I'm trying to remove the carburetor on a Tecumseh Snow King engine (LH195SP). I need to remover the cover and the choke control linkage and knob are preventing this. 

Does the knob come off the choke linkage rod?

Also, anyone have any tips on removing the two very stubborn phillips screws holding the choke bracket to the carb without ruining the screw heads?


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Hi and welcome to the forum :wave:

If the knob is plastic and on a metal piece, it probably push on, it may have some sort of glued on. I am pretty sure knobs are one of the last things put on. 

On the screws. Need a good new screw driver of the correct size.
You can try a paste made with souring powder, put that paste in the slot to give you a little more bit.

Really hard to say on the linkage with see it or a parts diagram.

BG


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## MrChooks (Apr 19, 2008)

:wave: As usual, BG is right on the job ray:

Just a suggestion with the Phillips head screws. As BG said *a good quality, sharp (read new) screw driver is a must *and as BG said, make sure you have the correct size, one size too big or too small is a formula for tears with tight Phillips heads:4-thatsba 

If you can find one with a square section shaft, even better, as you can use a wrench to apply undoing torque. This method gives a lot more twist power than attempting to turn the screw driver handle

The idea is you push down hard on the handle of the screw driver with one hand to ensure it doesn't slip in the screw head and use a smallish adjustable wrench to apply the undoing torque with the other. I have found that is the best way to ensure you don't wreck the screw head. 

Also, before you start, see if you can scrape any paint / muck out of the screw slots, the cleaner the screw slots are, the better grip the Phillips head driver will give.

Good luck with it all


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## Basementgeek (Feb 7, 2005)

Also a good dose of penetrating oil may just help like the product I use from http://www.blasterchemical.com/products.html

PB Penetrating Catalyst

BG


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## SABL (Jul 4, 2008)

Good advice, as usual!!

I cheat by using a ratcheting type screwdriver with replaceable tips. Not good if you use the screwdriver for the "tap and turn" method of breaking a stubborn screw loose.... tapping the screwdriver with a hammer while attempting to back out the screw. The tips are cheap and readily available, just beware of the brand and the grade of steel. 

Many of my tips are used with power tools (I'm commercial carpenter by trade) and I have used many brands of tips... some aren't worth the price of scrap metal. 

In the matter of a tight screw (keep it clean, guys) that will not budge with reasonable effort, I resort to using my cordless drill with the clutch feature. With the drill set in reverse and the clutch set very low, I pull the trigger on the drill for 1 or 2 seconds. This will only give the screw a wake-up call with the hammering action of the clutch mechanism........ gradually increase the clutch setting until you get the screw to turn. The intermittent "hammer blows" will break the screw loose like an impact wrench.

Not everyone has a cordless drill with a clutch, but for those who do have one, learn to make use of the clutch.... it is a great feature.


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